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Bigfoot21075
09-12-2006, 01:21 PM
Anyone fly one of these? 36" Wing - looks really nice!

http://www.electrifly.com/largeelectrics/gpma1141.html

WWI Ace
09-13-2006, 01:39 AM
Are they out yet? Steve

Bigfoot21075
09-13-2006, 10:58 AM
Ahhh not yet I see - Mid Nov.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=GPMA1141

max-nix
11-11-2006, 01:23 AM
In stock now at Tower!

Elfwreck
11-16-2006, 06:15 PM
Hey now,
Somebody just started a thread in the parkie forum, claimed it's nice, but a complicated build. I don't believe it though, it doesn't look so different from the Se5a they make, and that only took me three hours to build...
RobII

Twizter68
11-16-2006, 06:40 PM
I wonder how well that Fokker flies....

Tongue in cheek intended!

dmmalish
11-17-2006, 01:28 PM
i'm putting one of those "fokkers" together right now and my only complaint is my tail feathers are a little warped so i need to try to heat them and straighten them out

Ron
11-26-2006, 06:54 PM
dmmalish
did you get your D V11 flying yet? I am interested to know your impression of the model....the LHS has one, and the owner of the shop says it keeps calling my name.

WWI Ace
11-26-2006, 07:24 PM
Yeah Ron my LHS talked me into one yesterday. It looks like a good plane for an ARF. Since I don't have much build time right now this may be the way to go! I'm having them order the Rimfire outrunner because they didn't have it in stock. I'll probably get started as soon as I pick up my motor from my LHS (that's 60 miles away!!!). I know guys, I could have ordered it but even though their prices are marked up I get stuff for Tower prices. My wife says it's 'cause I spent so much money there!! Steve.

dmmalish
11-26-2006, 10:15 PM
dmmalish
did you get your D V11 flying yet? I am interested to know your impression of the model....the LHS has one, and the owner of the shop says it keeps calling my name.

i'm in the middle of bulding now but working 12 hours a day not much time to get finished hope to have it finished by christmas it is a very nice kit i finished the se5 for my brother last week and flew it what a good flyer very fast need to stay on top of it

Ron
11-26-2006, 11:24 PM
DM...I was wondering which of the two to put together ( can't really call it building) , but I have not actually put my grubby little hands onto one of the " kits" yet...I bought my first PNP model this last week, and it took me about 2 to 3 hours to rectify all the little things that I wasn't happy with.
Now it's ready to fly, and we have just had the biggest dump of snow I've seen in quite a few winters....Guess skis are in order.

Steve...keep me informed please on your build..I have two 2208/34 Axi motors with no homes, so I thought to use one of them in the DV11. I know it's not the same theoretically as the suggested motor, but the prop size and battery size are the same, and it will hover a 16 ounce plane at a little over half throttle...the Rimfire motor is about 950KV and the Axi is 1080...so I am thinking it might work OK...also I don't particularly like the red and white colour scheme, but I still have my paint brushes and a bunch of chalk and paint.....I think it would look cool with a custom lozenge paint job....don't be surprised if you see it done up that way....just waiting to see some flight reports from here...I don't really like the magazine reviews...I've never seen one that says anything other than this is the best model I've ever flown....so consequently I don't trust them.....I have my WWII bird almost ready to start, but I need some more room in the shop...possibly I can " fill up the voids" with a few park fliers....besides they will fit nicely in the motorhome for the vacation....never took a model with me before, except to go to a fly in...
so this should be fun.

dmmalish
11-26-2006, 11:33 PM
i had about 5-6 hourd into it here are the parts i used

eBay: 2836-10 Outrunner Brushless Motor from HEADS UP RC (item 220051522689 end time Nov-27-06 18:19:27 PST) (http://cgi.ebay.com/2836-10-Outrunner-Brushless-Motor-from-HEADS-UP-RC_W0QQitemZ220051522689QQihZ012QQcategoryZ34056QQ cmdZViewItem)

eBay: FOUR 9 gram SERVOS - Tower Pro SG90 mini servo (item 220052858997 end time Nov-30-06 18:00:13 PST) (http://cgi.ebay.com/FOUR-9-gram-SERVOS-Tower-Pro-SG90-mini-servo_W0QQitemZ220052858997QQihZ012QQcategoryZ3405 6QQcmdZViewItem)


eBay: 30A ESC for Brushless Motors - from HEADS UP RC (item 220051523094 end time Nov-27-06 18:21:08 PST) (http://cgi.ebay.com/30A-ESC-for-Brushless-Motors-from-HEADS-UP-RC_W0QQitemZ220051523094QQihZ012QQcategoryZ34056QQ cmdZViewItem)

i am more than happy with the performance roll rate was very impressive flies very quick with this set up i am installiing the same set up in the fokker you do have to modify motor mount a little if not using the rim fire motor

max-nix
11-27-2006, 02:44 AM
Hi dmmalish
Sounds like you have a very powerful setup, what size prop, pitch & battery (# of cells, make & amp hrs)---what is the flight duration ?

Thanks
Smasher Bob
(ex UPS pkg. smasher)

dmmalish
11-27-2006, 10:28 PM
Hi dmmalish
Sounds like you have a very powerful setup, what size prop, pitch & battery (# of cells, make & amp hrs)---what is the flight duration ?

Thanks
Smasher Bob
(ex UPS pkg. smasher)

prop is a 9x6, battery is a 11.1 1500 mah lipo brand unknown bought from truerc.com flight times of between 8 and 10 min could go longer i'm sure 10 min of hard flying

Jagzilla
11-27-2006, 10:34 PM
Ron,
Just go buy both the kits, and then tell me which one you figure is better. Then I'll go get that one.

Hope you are enjoying the white stuff as much as I am!!!
Jag

Ron
11-28-2006, 07:27 AM
Jag....It's brass monkey weather...Barn's frozen, wind is too heavy to fly even a full sized plane, garage is too cold to work in ...can't build, snow up to my *
mother in law has moved in with us, lost my building place, so I have to use the cold garage....man winter's great ain't it?? I'm so happy I could just s--t. ....I am putting together a portable building board to go into my office at home.....should be fun trying to assemble a 96" model on it...maybe I should just switch over to parkies and forget it.....naaah that would be too easy. Hopefully by the weekend it will get somewhat warmer and less windy....maybe we should put skis on a couple models.

Jagzilla
11-30-2006, 03:42 AM
Mother in law has moved in??? Ouch!

I see now in the new flyer from Hobby Wholesale they list both the Fokker and the SE5a
Jag

Ron
11-30-2006, 04:10 PM
Jag....give me a call at work...I have an interesting project for you if you wish to take it on.....

rcers
11-30-2006, 06:05 PM
Great airplane - I love mine!

Grasshopper
11-30-2006, 06:31 PM
Great pics rcers! Man you guys are making me want one of these.

As Tom says to himself "Be strong ....be strong! I do have will power...I do have will power."

dmmalish
11-30-2006, 11:25 PM
Great airplane - I love mine!

makes me want to get mine finished but time is short right now nice job

Ron
12-01-2006, 06:32 AM
Is this model covered with Monokote? or what ? ...I think I may obtain one, but , since I don't really like the colour scheme. I would be painting the dreaded lozenge camo scheme onto it. Maybe I will have to strip it and recover? or possibly spray OD on the fuse and wing uppers. Then Sky blue under wings with lozenge on tops and two tone 4 colour on the fuse.
The horiz. stab and rudder are correct for my scheme. Any thoughts?

rcers
12-01-2006, 12:58 PM
Is this model covered with Monokote? or what ?

It appears to be the "or what" category.... glue side is quite a bit different that monokote....seemingly.

If you do the lozenge scheme - I want to see how you do it! Arizona models offers some, but I don't know if it is the right size....

Mike

gutsandglory
12-01-2006, 09:55 PM
I'm chomping at the bit to build this Fokker. First build instruction talks of installing hinges for the ailerons. For the life of me, I can't seem to find these hinges. The measurements given do not correspond to anything in the kit. Yes, I have those small paper-like things with a crease in the middle, but it can't be those ,can it? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

rcers
12-01-2006, 10:05 PM
Those are they - the crease is actually how you separate them - then are not wide (like the slot).

Even though they are skinny and short they work fine.

Mike

gutsandglory
12-01-2006, 10:17 PM
Thanks Mike. It's just that I've built GWS planes and their paper hinges were more substantial it kinda confused me. Thanks again.

Ron
12-01-2006, 11:45 PM
Mike..I did a " how to" on lozenge when I did my big EV...it's in the WW1 planes thread here.pages 22 and 23.....It is actually very easy, and you won't believe the results......If you don't find it, I'll help you out on it as much as I can.
The worst part of the whole project is thinking how much work it is, which it really isn't...you can easily do a 1/4 scale model in two to three evenings....this little guy will be a one to two evening job......1st evening to do the base coat and let it dry....second evening a couple hours will see it finished.

Flyer 1
12-06-2006, 07:09 AM
I can't believe I didn't spot this sub-forum earlier - I'm the guy who posted the first report on this, I guess, up in the Parkflyer section mentioned in this thread.
I didn't mean to imply that the build was difficult, but instead time consuming - backing all those screws in, out, then back in again to CA-reinforce the holes.
I've got both the Fokker and the SE-5. The day I maidened the Fokker the SE came into stock at Tower and I promptly hit up BillMeLater for it! Thank God for that and credit cards.
One of the things about the Fokker that's a bit [/i]more complicated than the SE is the cabane structure and arrangement. It's straighforward enough, but the Fokker's is a bit confusing until you fit the parts and realize they'll only assemble one way (correctly).
The planes DO fly differently, though. The Fokker has ailerons on the top wing only, and the lower wing is only about 2/3 the size of the upper. The SE has them on both and it's easily apparent when flying - the SE tends to have fairly axial rolls without rudder but the Fokker will do barrel-like rolls unless you apply a bit of rudder. As far as overall performance (speed, climb rates, flight times, etc.), they're pretty much identical.
Even though the SE may appear to have the edge in aerobatics over the Fokker, this is only true until you really get used to the Fokker and it's unique combination of upper-aileron only and small lower wing. Once you're familiar with it, I believe the Fokker is the more manueverable of the two - it's less forgiving to fly and chomping at the bit to tear the sky to bits.
One reason for this, I believe, is that the SE has quite a bit of built-in dihedral, whereas the Fokker only a trace. In fact you have to look twice to see that it's got any. The Fokker's tail feathers are also a bit more responsive.
One thing is plain right off the bat - the Fokker is faster than the SE, at least in my experience. I'd chalk that up to having quite a bit less wing area combined with more drag from the cabane structure. Still, the difference is only marginal. I don't really find either one a true speed-demon. That's not what WW1 bipes are all about, anyhow.
These are, without a doubt, two of the BEST ARFs I've ever owned or seen. If finances allow buy 'em both: you just plain can't go wrong. Plus, they look really neat on the wall in their hangars next to each other!
About the hinges - those little paper squares didn't do it for me, either. They just seemed wrong, and the pre-cut slots for the hinges were far larger than they'd needed. So, I scrounged around a bit and pulled out a couple old floppy discs to use for hinge material. I've never yet had a "floppy" hinge give up the ghost on me. Be sure to rough up the slick surface, though, before gluing.
Also, be careful on both planes routing the motor wires to the ESC. Assembled as in the manual, they come right up against the motor - something you do NOT want with an outrunner! I just elongated the motor holes in the firewalls and taped them securely above the motor inside the fuse.
Take your pick, they're both Great Planes! And no, I don't have a favorite - I love 'em both.
Flyer

scalercflyer
12-09-2006, 05:38 AM
Boy, did you Guys get sucked in! :D Keep up the thread. Would love to hear more. :) Maybe that way I won't feel guilty about buying one! :D :D hhhhmmmm I wonder which one to buy :confused: ..... any suggestions Boys? Martin

Flyer 1
12-09-2006, 06:15 AM
Well, the SE5 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMSH7&P=0) is in stock right now in limited quantities at Tower... if you want one better get it, like, NOW!
Flyer

WWI Ace
12-09-2006, 07:49 PM
Hey Martin. The wife bought the D7 for me. It looks like it will be a very good plane!!! Steve.

Ron
12-09-2006, 08:55 PM
Steve....Martin....
I just got my D V11 home last night...I had to go into the big city for business, and as I got closer to town, I could hear something or some one calling my name...as I got closer to the hobby shop it got louder and more urgent, so I decided to stop in to say hi....When I passed by the D Vll box, it jumped into my arms and wouldn't let go of me...well, since it seemed to be the only one of that type in the hobby shop, I concluded ( and I think rightly so ) that it must be an orphan, and I decided that I would " adopt" it, take it home and raise it as one of my own.
I do these humanitarian things from time to time, so the wife should understand :rolleyes:

now I gotta see if I can find an unusual paint scheme for it...it has a little too much red for my taste, but it is nicely done. possibly a semi lozenge, or one that has a different color on the wing bottoms like the DR1 or the D V1.....or ..... Martin??? any ideas??? I would likely have left it red and white, but there's probably bazillions of others that color out there already, and a friend who I fly with regularly has this scheme already, and as you know, I like to be different ( wife says that should read difficult)
What does she know about WW1 aeroplanes anyway??? :p
I was going to build a larger model this winter, but my mom in law moved in with us this fall, and my " shop" has been commandeered for " storage"
Now if it won't fit on a 30 X 48 bench...( read desk.)..it won't be built at
the Dodd Aviation facility ..at least this winter....I am doing up something in the way of a Camel for my next larger build, but I guess now, it will have to wait till next winter.

Martin...Better get the SE5A...Steve and I need someone to " test it out" to see if it's worth adopting. :D

BradT
12-10-2006, 03:02 AM
Ron, which of the many shops had this one in? I checked at Norburn yesterday at 5:00, and they were on backorder. Dang, I wanted the baby brother of my big scratch built. Ah well, I've got too many projects waiting for roundtoits already. I'll be at Burnaby Lake for the meeting tomorrow, and your lipo charger will be with me, in case you make out too.
Brad.

Ron
12-10-2006, 05:02 PM
Hey Brad....Wes had one only, but I understand that he has another one , or some...of each on order....seems funny that Norburn would be out...usually they got all the good stuff...Check with Wes on his Boxing day sale....he has some really neat warbirds coming in...Spitty, Mustang...
Harvard...I thnik a Corsair...and a few others...but definitelty not in Parkie size...46 and 60 size..I think the 60 size Spitty and Mustang are around 120 CDN......That's about $ 2.49 to you guys down south.....I was planning to go to the meeting...when I got out of bed this morning and put on my shirt, something bit my arm ( insect? ) and it's swelling a little and feels very heavy...felt like a bee sting.....oh well...long as I can hold a brew, I'll be there.

Jagzilla
12-11-2006, 01:12 AM
I knew you'd break down and get one Ron! Now I'm gonna have to get one too, one of these days!
Jaggy

Ron
12-11-2006, 04:57 PM
Jag....it looks nothing like a Great Planes D V11 anymore..I have been doing some ahh shall we say modifications to it.

Ron
12-15-2006, 11:05 PM
anyone have any ideas about what to use as a clear flat coat over sharpie ink?? I need something that won't make it run. dull Kote doesn't work the edges of the inked part become fuzzy, and it runs.

Flyer 1
12-16-2006, 12:30 AM
Is it an intricate shape or just a line/box/stripe type design?
If it's simple just use clear plastic tape along the outlines (outside the Sharpie) and seal it well. THEN use the coating - the tape will keep it from spreading.
Flyer

Ron
12-16-2006, 09:59 PM
flyer...since it's a lozenge scheme I kinda think it might take a while to do that way :-)...Hopefully the clear satin that goes over tole paint might work...I understand that it is totally water based. I have a sample of the design on a piece of monocote, so I'll try it on that first.

jimx5000
12-18-2006, 05:16 AM
AXI style mounts available.

For sale here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=612423

Laser-cut mounts. Easy way to mount an axi style motor on this plane. It replaces the stock motor mount.

I love my SE5a, but the Fokker is still in the box.

http://james.kubiak.com/mount.jpg

MountainFlyer
12-21-2006, 11:33 PM
Finished My Fokker today...
Specs:
GP Electrifly Rimfire 28-30-950kV
GP SS-25 ESC
Battery TP 3S2P 1320 mAh Lipo
4 Hitec HS-55 servos
Hitec 05S RX
Top Flite 10x7 Wood Prop
AUW 23.75 oz
pulls 14 amps with this prop, have not test flown it yet though will see how it flys when it stops snowing...

20606 20613

dmmalish
12-21-2006, 11:39 PM
that looks good i am still working on mine just no time i got the se5a done and it flys great used a 9x6 wood prop on it i like the looks of the wood prop they have a different sound i think :confused: maybe its just the look have a great maiden and lets see some video

scalercflyer
12-22-2006, 01:39 AM
How's this for a camo scheme Ron? You could "adapt" it to a DVII. HHHMMMMM....... I like the idea! Martin

http://www.wwimodeler.com/esc/fok/stripes/udet-1.jpg

Ron
12-22-2006, 06:20 PM
Martin: I almost did a black/white scheme that I found a couple of weeks ago, but ended up doing the dreaded lozenge scheme on her...pics this evening at 11...just waiting to maiden it hopefully this weekend wearher co-operating that is.

Ron
12-24-2006, 07:10 PM
Couple of not so great shots of the D V11...but you get the idea...

Next I would like to do a DVa or something like that. but in approx the same scale I have a DR1 in exactly the same scale lying around somewhere, but since I've already done a 1/3 sized one I don't think it's gonna get done. :rolleyes:

WWI Ace
12-24-2006, 11:27 PM
Thats pretty cool camo Ron! Leave it to you to come up with something like that. Steve.

Ron
12-24-2006, 11:50 PM
Thanks Steve..........I did it that way cause I knew that Martin would just love it. :-) By the way Merry Christmas to you all

Flyer 1
12-25-2006, 07:04 PM
Here's a Merry Christmas fly-by of my GP Fokker...

http://www.flyerwires.com/fokker.gif

Ooops! Seems as if I took a FMS screen cap video instead! :D
However, it IS a Fokker DVII I designed for FMS, complete with all Great Planes kit markings.
Flyer

scalercflyer
12-25-2006, 07:27 PM
Thanks for the video Flyer 1! :) Looks awesome! :cool: I don't remember telling you this but welcome to one of the largest threads here at WF.:D Hang around. I have a feeling there is a lot of good stuff to come. Perhaps you guys would like to show us your winter builds. Steve, just thought I would share..... no snow or blizzards in South Jersey! :p Ron, I'm thinking Santa forgot to give me the SE5a for Christmas. Guess I'll have to remind him! I think I can find a few RED Fokkers to fill full of lead! ;) Martin

Flyer 1
12-25-2006, 08:00 PM
Yep, Santa seems to have misplaced some of my stuff, too...
I better buzz his place at the North Pole and remind him. :D

http://www.flyerwires.com/fokker2.gif

Flyer

scalercflyer
12-25-2006, 08:58 PM
Put in a good word for me too! :D I've been good this year! :rolleyes: Martin

MountainFlyer
12-26-2006, 10:04 PM
Well I finally got to put the maiden on the D7 today ... beautiful flying plane i must say. It can be flown quite slowly and remains very stable. Does very nice loops, and aileron rolls are fine if you add just a tad of rudder. Other wise she tends to drag her behind a bit ;) Landings are .. interesting .. it will ground loop if you don't start adding up elevator as soon as its wheels touch down.. no damage though since the landing speeds are about the same as a fast walk at best :) It will fly rather briskly at full throttle (no radar gun but from a rough guess i'd say 35+mph. I am using a 10x7 top flite wood prop though )...
No video .. i can't film and fly at the same time :)
but here are a few still photos after the landing ;)

20760 20761

BradT
12-27-2006, 07:17 AM
scalercflyer, Santa didn't bring an Electrifly for me, either, so I hit the local RC shop's Boxing Day sale and picked up the SE5A at a nice discount. I'm close enough to Ron that I'll be able to give him a dogfight or 2 when the weather's a little better. I better get it put together soon! A little off-topic for the WWI thread, but I also got a SMOKIN' deal ($80 CDN)on a 62" ARF Spitfire with retracts. That'll need a bit bigger outrunner than these little bipes, though ;-)
Brad.

Ron
12-27-2006, 05:34 PM
Brad...
You must have been there early in the day...like 10:0000000001. :p
I have a spare motor or two that will fit your Spitty if you need one....I have Maxcim in both D wind and Y wind...D swings 15X8 at 7300 rpm on 4 cells....makes a 5 lb model fly pretty darned spritely..........As a matter of fact that's the model I was going in to look at,( for this particular motor) but I guess he only had yours in stock, mine never got there :rolleyes: ...Other than that, he had nothing else I wanted, The Mustangs didn't look that great, I guess because everyone has one.....the Profile Extras aren't my kind of model.....the little SE5A looked interesting, and I almost sprung for it, but it didn't call my name like the D Vll...........so I went over to Richards to pick up one of the flight power charge through balancers....Just made my 109 charger into a balancing charger.
And I'm now the proud owner of a pair of EVO 1800 mah 3 cell packs.
I couldn't help myself...he made me an offer I couldn't understand....
Maybe my Brio will gain a little power over the AP cells I am using, which seem to sag if you push the throttle a little.....Santa brought me a neat book...If there was a ME 109 or a FW 190 built, I have the colour scheme for it I swear....there are pages and pages of them, and if the Germans used it between 1930 and the end of the war, I have a picture of it.....Guess we're all in the middle of a turkeyover by now, so I'm gone...........Sandwich time :D

BradT
12-28-2006, 05:03 AM
Ron, 9:55AM, with about 10 other eager R/C bargain hunters, waiting for Wes to open the doors.:D The SE5a looks like a great little kit, should go together nicely and fly well with my AXI 2212/34 for power. The big Spittie, on the other hand, will take one of my older large geared inrunners, I think, with 5 or 6S Lipo or 20 round cells, depending on c.g. needs,the published flying weight is 7.5 lbs for .60 glow. Span is 63", with 740 sq.in. area. It probably won't land slow!

I'll try to get the SE done in time for the Jan. indoor meet; if the weather co-operates, maybe we can go to the field for a flight or 2 with the enemy warbirds:p .

Brad.

Ron
12-28-2006, 04:53 PM
That sounds like a plan Brad....works out to between 23 and 24 ounces to the sq. ft. on the Spitfire....sounds not too bad at all...I think your ME109 was that much...so was your Beaver if I recall correctly....I'm looking forward to seeing it fly.

RMFISH
12-28-2006, 05:54 PM
If Brad and I had known that you were on your way Ron, we would have held back the crowd at the door until you arrived :-).
Nothing jumped off the shelf and grabed me, so no nice holiday bargain for me either, although I think I would have made a home for the spitty if Brad had not got to it first. I had decided a while ago that I might add a Spit to my stable if the rite one comes along.
Robert.

scalercflyer
12-28-2006, 11:07 PM
Next thing I know you Guys will be covering your spitfire all in RED camouflage! Don't even think about it!!! Martin

BradT
12-29-2006, 01:47 AM
Next thing I know you Guys will be covering your spitfire all in RED camouflage! Don't even think about it!!! Martin

Martin, I believe there were 1 or more Spits in PINK, used for photo recon. Seems that colour is very hard to see at high altitude. How does that grab you!:p
Brad.

scalercflyer
12-29-2006, 02:15 AM
Well I never have been so insulted! :) Martin

Ron
12-29-2006, 05:33 AM
WELL I NEVER ! ! !
well..... actually I have once or twice :-)

Goodness Brad...I think I'll have to find an ME 109 or a FW 190 in same scale size as your Spitty... I have lots of colour schemes for them....but unfortunately there's no red one....I did see a KMP 109 in one of the magazines, but that's a BIG model...5330FAI and about a million cells in series...but it sure looks nice.9 actually 9 cells) I have a couple of 9S4P packs around here somewhere, and a few " spare" receivers, and a 90 amp jeti speed control, hmmmm

BradT
12-29-2006, 08:58 AM
HMMMM- Spits and 109s are a LITTLE off topic for this thread:confused: . I'll get a bit closer to topic, at least in the right era, with info on my new SE5a. I got a couple of hours into it tonight, all control surfaces are mounted and hinged, everything up to step 18 completed. I'll have to make a custom motor mount for the AXI, like you did, Ron (and others in the threads on theses birds), and mount all the electronics. I rummaged through my "stuff" and came up with a NIB C.C. 25A esc and a 5 ch. FMA RX for it, but need some new servos to fit. A trip to the LHS tomorrow, I guess. Maybe I'll git-'er-done for New Years Day (yeah, right:o ).
Brad.

dmmalish
12-29-2006, 09:15 AM
here i am chasing my brother yesterday at the field he was flying his gp se5a

http://www.rcuvideos.com/view_video.php?viewkey=c48fbf47535e888c02ae

Ron
12-30-2006, 04:42 AM
Brad...glad you're gettin it done... It looks good in the picture on the box....If it looks like that in person, and flies well, you will have a real winner...

rcers
12-30-2006, 06:26 PM
here i am chasing my brother yesterday at the field he was flying his gp se5a

http://www.rcuvideos.com/view_video.php?viewkey=c48fbf47535e888c02ae

dmmalish -get that camera out of the prop arc man! Hard to get air to air you did great just could not see the other plane just lines!!!

MIke

Mongo40
01-03-2007, 06:44 PM
Hello guys, Santa ordered me one of the Fokkers for Christmas and it came in yesterday, got it home and opened up up to lay the parts out and the left aileron where it sticks out past the wing was curled down like it had been packed in the plastic to tight, its broken so I need to fix it, I've never applied monokote before so once I peel it away from the broken area and fix the broken wood, any pointers on reapplying monokote, I don't own an iron and hate to have to buy one just for this little fix, not sure how monokote sticks, I'm assuming the glue on it is heat activated???
Other than that, a great looking model, can't wait to get it together. Also, somewhere I saw a link to some pics where someone had weathered this plane and an Se5 I think, being an military scale model builder from way back this has to be done for it to look right form me, does anyone remember seeing the pics I'm talking about, can't find them now that I'm looking for them.
Thanks, Chris

Update! Disreguard the repairing of the broken piece, went back to my LHS after work and showed the guy what had happened and he pulled another plane off the shelve an swapped parts out for me, can't beat that kind of service.

Flyer 1
01-08-2007, 02:09 AM
The tangle tree in my schooyard reached out and snagged my D-VII by the wingtip last weekend, trashing the tip and sending it down on the prop.
Well, the damage wasn't as bad as I'd feared - the motor mount assembly and the wing were the only really dinged parts. I got and mounted a new wing and repaired the motor mount.
However, question - I attempted to rebuild the mount and firewall exactly as before, and they LOOK exactly as before (except for some strengthening mods!). But, I can't remember exactly how much right thrust the motor mount had if it means the firing squad! I've got it mounted and ready to go, but I'd swear that there's more right thrust than before. I replaced everything exactly along the remnants of the former firewall and even left several bits of it in place as guides. So - in theory at least it should be perfect.
Anyhow, can someone haul out their Fokker for a sec and tell me about how many degrees their prop shaft is offset? I may be perfectly fine, here, and fretting about nothing (probably am, in fact) but somethin' just don't seem right. I'd rather not send it up again without knowing for sure.
Thanks!
Flyer

Mach10
01-08-2007, 05:22 AM
Ordered mine today. From Tower. The LHS is out of stock also
It is backordered and due early January.
Don't know if I can wait that long.

Ron
01-09-2007, 12:06 AM
Brad...how's the sE5A coming along?? i still haven't been able to get time at the field to try the Fokker, but it's going to happen soon I can feel it

Jagzilla
01-10-2007, 03:34 PM
Looked outside lately Ron? It won't be that "soon"
jaggy

Ron
01-10-2007, 05:07 PM
Steve...that was before this rotten)&*^%#%@ snow happened...this has been one of the strangest winters we've ever had weather wise that I can remember....sure doesn't help the flying any...good thing I'm flying the blimp at the hockey games at least I get my " fix" a couple times a week :p

Flyer 1
01-10-2007, 11:20 PM
They're back in stock at Tower.
Flyer

Charley
01-11-2007, 04:34 PM
They're back in stock at Tower.
Flyer

Hi Guys,

I had my D.VII on backorder at Tower. Just got a heads up from Tower that they shipped it yesterday. Yippee! Now if they'll just get off the dime on the ESC I'll be all set. I already have the recommended Rimfire motor and props.

Anyhoo, now it's time to order the flight pack. I was thinking of the Berg 4-channel Rx and 4 HS-55 servos. Or, I could go Hitec 05S Rx and HS-55s from Servo City. The manual, downloaded from Tower, shows Futaba S3107 servos which are on a par with the 55s in output torque on 4.8 volts but they don't recommend running them on 6 volts, JIC.

So, my question is: are you guys happy with the ~16 oz-in servos or do you think a more powerful servo is in order? Er, I guess I should say I don't anticipate throwing the model around the sky.

TIA,

CR

rcers
01-11-2007, 05:41 PM
10oz servos would be more than enough.....for any of the surfaces. I use them in the SE5a even with the large ailerons.

No issues!

Mike

Flyer 1
01-11-2007, 08:58 PM
Yeah, just about any small enough servo would be fine (except the GWS versions - they're small, but mine tend to strip out easily).
I've got HS-50 servos in the wing for the ailerons, and they've got less than 10 ounces of torque. They work perfectly during all manuevers.
I do admit chickening out a bit and installing more powerful Futaba servos for the tail feathers though - those are some pretty LARGE surfaces and when you've actually got the bird running at full throttle in your hand, you'll SEE why I did - the propdraft is enough to make the rudder/elevator response strong enough to wrench the plane around in your hand!
Flyer

ducatirdr
01-12-2007, 01:56 PM
Has anyone else ran into their DVII being tail heavy with stock components? I'm using the stock motor and a 1320mah lipo and I need a good oz of lead in the nose.

I used the finger tip method of checking cg and it looked ok but flying it revealed the traits of a tail heavy bird. I then used the pencil eraser method and noticed the tail was lower than it should be so I added some test weights to the nose. It took a lot of weight to balance.

I can't weight(pun) to see if it flies better with the nose heavier. It was all over the place during the maiden.

rcers
01-12-2007, 02:32 PM
Has anyone else ran into their DVII being tail heavy with stock components?

Nope mine was spot on - with both Tanic 1500 3s and TP Lite 2000 3s packs and stock everything.....hard to do with these WW1 bipes I was pleased.

I have not hear any others with the issue - I wonder what is up with yours?

Mike

jimx5000
01-12-2007, 02:44 PM
Bigger battery!

Has anyone else ran into their DVII being tail heavy with stock components? I'm using the stock motor and a 1320mah lipo and I need a good oz of lead in the nose.

I used the finger tip method of checking cg and it looked ok but flying it revealed the traits of a tail heavy bird. I then used the pencil eraser method and noticed the tail was lower than it should be so I added some test weights to the nose. It took a lot of weight to balance.

I can't weight(pun) to see if it flies better with the nose heavier. It was all over the place during the maiden.

ducatirdr
01-12-2007, 03:22 PM
I put a 2100 in the bay and it balances but the 2100 is a bit too big. Maybe the 1500/2000 has a bit more weight than my 1320. It figures that for the next week there are fronts coming through every day so I won't be able to see how it should fly with the correct cg.

Using the pencil eraser method it was clearly tail heavy stock with the 1320mah battery. Seeing how I have a couple 1320's I'll stick with them and add some lead.

Ron
01-12-2007, 04:40 PM
mine was tail heavy too....

Charley
01-12-2007, 09:13 PM
[/quote]
Using the pencil eraser method it was clearly tail heavy stock with the 1320mah battery. Seeing how I have a couple 1320's I'll stick with them and add some lead.[/quote]

You guys have me worried now. I went ahead and ordered the Hitec O5S Rx and HS-55s from Servo City. I notice that the servos and RX are all behind the longitudinal balance point. The Rx is about the only thing one can move around and it doesn't weigh enough to make any difference, balance wise. I'll be using 2,000 mAH 8c LiPos from Common Sense RC. Good deal on those BTW, $45 for two of 'em. No plugs, tho. Maybe they'll be heavy anough to get the balance right. I hate dead weight with a purple passion! :mad:

CR

Flyer 1
01-12-2007, 09:44 PM
Using the pencil eraser method it was clearly tail heavy stock with the 1320mah battery. Seeing how I have a couple 1320's I'll stick with them and add some lead.[/quote]

You guys have me worried now. I went ahead and ordered the Hitec O5S Rx and HS-55s from Servo City. I notice that the servos and RX are all behind the longitudinal balance point. The Rx is about the only thing one can move around and it doesn't weigh enough to make any difference, balance wise. I'll be using 2,000 mAH 8c LiPos from Common Sense RC. Good deal on those BTW, $45 for two of 'em. No plugs, tho. Maybe they'll be heavy anough to get the balance right. I hate dead weight with a purple passion! :mad:

CR[/quote]
No worries - the 2000 mah packs will balance it right out. You might have to break out the X-Acto knife, though, to carve a little extra space (I did).
Flyer

ducatirdr
01-12-2007, 10:27 PM
I took a chance and went down the local soccer field as the sun was setting tonight. The 20 mph wind gusts we had earlier slowed to nothing as the sun set and I gave the DVII another shot with some lead in the nose. It took 1oz of lead to balance with the 1320 battery in it.

It flew much better. It looks really good in the air and it does fly very scale like speeds with 1/2 throttle. I noticed that turns only require a bit of aileron to initiate as it tends to look like a tip stall if you use too much. Shallow angled turns look best with a bit of rudder.

Landing instructions in the manual were right on. This plane needs about 1/4 power to land well and stay on its wheels. It adds excitement as it is a light touch to do it right. You really don't flair on landings with this plane. You fly it lightly powered onto the ground and then chop the power and use full up to keep from ground looping. It looks awesome with the longer rollouts and a light touch down. It's great when it comes together and you get it right.:)

MountainFlyer
01-13-2007, 12:35 AM
ducatirdr,
Mine was also tail heavy .. i think its more to do with the fact the TP 1320 Lipo is slightly lighter than the recommended Electrifly 1250 mAh Lipo
the electrifly is almost a third longer and weighs 3.78 oz. while the Thunder Power 1320 mAh weighs 3 oz just over 3/4 of an oz less

Ron
01-13-2007, 05:29 AM
I think you are right..the electrifly battery in mine makes it right on...while with the TP battery it's tail heavy.

ducatirdr
01-15-2007, 03:39 PM
I just want to share some comments on this plane after having it balanced properly. The plane flies great and is a lot of fun to fly.

Some other issues I have run into that other purchasers of this plane might want to be aware of.

Forget trying to pull that aileron Y cable through that small rib opening. I cut the string and pulled it out. Then I took an old nut and tied it to the string and ran it down the bigger middle rib hole. When you look at the pull string location stock you'll know what I mean. I was able to pull the Y cable much easier in the larger hole and fish out the RX lead without any problems using a small bit of wire shaped like a hook.


The battery box is really soft balsa. I caught a lower wing tip on a landing after a bounce on the grass and this caused a minor nose-in at some speed in which nothing broke on the plane but the battery box cracked. I ran an inch wide strip of 1/16 ply on the bottom of the battery box from the front firewall to the back former.

The axel on the landing gear loosened up. Use loctite on the inner nuts as well as the outer nuts to keep the axel from spinning during take offs and landings. My axel spun out to one side and pinched one of the wheels so it wouldn't spin. I finally used CA on the inner nuts after taking it apart and realinging everything. The locktite I had didn't hold them well enough.

I ordered an extra cowl as a minor slip with a screwdriver put a big hole in my cowl. Those cowls are paper thin very very fragile.

Charley
01-16-2007, 02:52 PM
First thing I did was check to see if my 2,000 mAH battery would fit. I was worried because these LiPos from Common Sense RC are short and thick, being 3 1/4" X 1 1/4" X 1 1/16". These are the same size that I use in my Mini Ultra Stick. Anyhoo, it fits with room to spare because there's plenty of space up inside the hatch cover. I'll have plenty of room to move it fore and aft for CG adjustment.

ducatidr, I agree with you that the battery compartment floor is a bit weak looking. Like you, I'll put a reinforcement down the middle to stiffen it and for the velcro strap to wrap around.

Now if my flight pack and ESC will just arrive, I'll have all the parts. This norther that blew in has slowed everything to a crawl here in central TX. 25* F and covered with ice this morning! Good time to build!

Oh well, I can start assembling what parts I have but the first thing I'll do is apply those bird decals while I can lay the fuse flat on the workbench!

Cheers,

CR

Mongo40
01-16-2007, 06:02 PM
Any of you guys that build these an have done some weathering to them to look a little more realistic post some pics, I haven't started on mine but from just looking at the pics an looking at the parts in the boxs that shiny covering along with the pristin white just doesn't look right, I just dont see these birds looking this clean taking off an landing in those grassy muddy european airfields. I've seen what some have done with the Liquitex flat and Model Masters flat, I'm definilty going to do that first but then it needs some weathering done and something done to the motor.

Charley, as for that weather you talking about, its in the teens here in St. Louis and I haven't had power in my house since Saturday morning. to cold to even build models right now.

Chris

WWI Ace
01-17-2007, 12:16 AM
I know what you mean about the weather! It's just gotten above freezing here for the first time in 4 days!! I too am thinking about how to take the "shine" off mine and weather it a little. I've also tried to figure out a good way to make a simplified version of the motor. Steve.

Charley
01-18-2007, 02:19 AM
I know what you mean about the weather! It's just gotten above freezing here for the first time in 4 days!! I too am thinking about how to take the "shine" off mine and weather it a little. I've also tried to figure out a good way to make a simplified version of the motor. Steve.

Today was worse than yesterday. We got rain that froze over the snow. "Slicker than greased owl s--t. " One of my pals called around, wanted to go fly our float planes. Wiser heads prevailed. :)

I've had good luck painting film covering. I've roughed it up with "00" steel wool, then wipe it down with deglosser and immediately paint with your choice of....whatever. Dullcote comes to mind.......


cr

Ron
01-18-2007, 04:23 AM
dullkote works good if you first wipe the model with denatured alcohol.
also a product called Photo matte that you can buy in a potog supply store works just great, and is a lot cheaper than Dullkote...also have used matte spray varnish to some good effect as it imparts a yellowish aged colour to the model.especially the whites.

Charley
01-18-2007, 06:32 AM
dullkote works good if you first wipe the model with denatured alcohol.
also a product called Photo matte that you can buy in a potog supply store works just great, and is a lot cheaper than Dullkote...also have used matte spray varnish to some good effect as it imparts a yellowish aged colour to the model.especially the whites.

Whatever works. Glsd you tould us. It just goes to show that many methods and products work.

I suppose that what needs to be imparted is that film can be painted and how.

Mongo40
01-18-2007, 08:37 PM
I figured it could be painted as I read a post that someone used those little spray cans of Dulcote, I believe its Testers Model Masters to dull the finish, good ideal on rubbing with denatured alcohol, not sure about using steel wool, I've got some 0000 extra fine that I use to clean chrome with that would probably work but I'm afraid of rubbing to hard on it, once I've got a good dull finish on it that will give a good base for airbrushing some exhaust stains and drybrushing some dirt and mud stains on the undercarrige and such. I always have to make myself stop though so as not to over do a model. The best rule of thumb I've found is, Just when you think it needs a little bit more STOP!

Jagzilla
01-24-2007, 01:14 PM
Ron, where do we get "denatured" alcohol?
Jag

Ron
01-24-2007, 06:37 PM
Jag...you are in the business...rubbungalcohol with the scent removed....
or you can " get it at the pharmasave price " what have you been up to?? huh? new secret project perhaps??

VOLUNTEER
01-24-2007, 07:16 PM
Testors Dullcoat looks great and it sprays on easily - one can does a DVII with a little left over. The rubbing alcohol must work since the Dullcoat stuck with no problems.

Jagzilla
01-25-2007, 05:05 AM
Nothing too secret over here. Just finishishing up a FW 190, and still tinkering with the new heli. Air retracts are giving me fits in the 190!!
J

Charley
01-25-2007, 02:40 PM
Jag...you are in the business...rubbungalcohol with the scent removed....


Denatured alcohol, also called shellac thinner is a combo of methanol, ethanol and some other ester, according to the label on the gallon can I have. It's about 190 proof. It can also be used to fuel alky stoves, can be bought at almost any hardware store. I also use it to thin epoxy for fuel proofing on my glow/gas models. Er, and to get the excess epoxy off of everything else I've managed to spill it on :D

Last time I looked at a label, rubbing alcohol was 50% water. :(

CR

RM Stinson
01-27-2007, 12:51 AM
I put mine together this week and have flown it two days straight. Here are my observations:

The CG is better at 2 1/4" behind the LE. It's still very stable, and tips over less this way. By the way, I had to add 2oz of lead in the nose to achieve this balance, using a 1350mah 3S lipo.

The first time I pulled my velcro'ed battery off from the tray, the tray broke. I took this opportunity to build my own tray, from plywood. I lowered it enough to enable using a 2100mah Evo 3S pack. Since the battery was heavier, I was able to remove the lead, and it balances just right.

Although it is not a sky-rocket, the stock motor will allow quick takeoffs, and loops from level flight.

My kit must have been in the sun somewhere, because there were wing warps and saggy covering spots. I worked the warps into "wash-out", which helps the stability too.

With the recommended high rate throws, the elevator and rudder were fine. The ailerons gave a really fast roll, under control but not very scale-like.

I commonly apply a dullcoat finish on my warbirds. It's an exceptional improvement. I recommend it highly.

The attached pictures were taken before I painted and installed the pilot. Looks naked, huh?

Good kit!

Charley
01-27-2007, 02:09 AM
I put mine together this week and have flown it two days straight. Here are my observations:

SNIP

My kit must have been in the sun somewhere, because there were wing warps and saggy covering spots. I worked the warps into "wash-out", which helps the stability too.

SNIP

!

The red covering on mine is so loose in some spots that it won't tighten up. On the fuse sides it wrinkled when I tried to shrink it tighter and I can't get it to iron smooth. I can't get the wrinkles out on the ailerons, may have to recover them. The covering on the upper wing's open structure tightens OK but the tips have wrinkles.

I don't know what this covering material is but it's not Monokote or BB film. It sags when it's heated and then shrinks but not enough. At least on my model it probably wasn't pulled tight enough as it was applied.

The white covering seems better.

CR

ducatirdr
01-29-2007, 03:18 PM
I just took all the electrics out of my DVII. A marginal day for flying it moved it from the flight line to the ceiling of my uncleís garage. A slight gust had a lower wing tip catch the ground and cart wheeled it onto its nose. It didn't look that bad watching it happen, but the cold air making the wood brittle and the frozen solid ground had a minor botched landing turn into a rebuild of sorts.

The lower wing broke at the spar and trailing edge along with some cracking to the motor mount. Itís easily repairable stuff and I did repair it for museum duty but I must confess that this plane never flew well for me. I donít know if it was tweaked during its maiden flight when I tried to fly it with the cg being off. That flight ended much the same way as its last flight. I think I may have bent the cabanes just enough to tweak its handling.

I added weight for proper cg and it never cleared up its tendency to always want to turn one way or the other, tip stall, and never fly in a straight line. Maybe I botched the build or maybe my wing was warped but either way Iím retiring this plane. My E-Flite Ultimate FX 3D is less twitchy than the DVII. I may try another DVII and hope it ends up having more relaxing flight characteristics. It sounds from the reports that most peoples DVIIís end up flying great. OR am I wrong thinking a scale WWI plane should fly straight and go where itís pointed?

dmmalish
02-08-2007, 11:43 PM
i finished mine today will not maiden till spring

RM Stinson
02-09-2007, 12:00 AM
dm: Time to build the SE5a, to keep it company until spring!

VOLUNTEER
02-09-2007, 12:18 AM
My DVII had a heavy left wing. It balanced by moving most of the lead(nearly 3 oz) to the right side. The top wing had negative incidence. The landing gear was a little long on the left side. The horizontal stab has 2.5 degrees of positive incidence and is supposed to be at 3 degrees.

The maiden was a little rough as you might imagine but I got it down mostly in one piece which was a minor miracle as it would only fly level at 3/4 throttle. All of these problems have been corrected and me and the pilot are awaiting a windless day. Both of us are scared .......less.

I have a flying buddy who has gasified a SE.5 and has about 50 hours in the conversion. Needless to say his maiden will be interesting.

dmmalish
02-09-2007, 12:48 PM
dm: Time to build the SE5a, to keep it company until spring!

my brother already has it we have had a couple hard landings with it but it is on the mend and we hope to be doing some dog fighting by spring :D

Cwiseguy
02-22-2007, 06:24 AM
Good to see some info on these...I am new to the sport and just bought the Fokker D-VII 36" ws and am waiting for the plane to come in...Before I start building are their any tips or tricks I should know about...I bought all the parts that were recommended by Tower...I am curious about a battery though I thought I might get a more powerful one instead of the 1250 mAh...Also did someone say they had a FMS model for this bird...

Any advice will be welcomed...

Hello from Kentucky...

Cwiseguy:cool:

rcers
02-22-2007, 02:16 PM
Any advice will be welcomed...

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=597602

Mike

Cwiseguy
02-25-2007, 09:45 AM
I have the Great Planes 36" ws ARF...The advised motor/esc/etc. from Tower...I am looking to buy batteries...Lipo...I want to go higher than the 1250 mAh advised by GP...Hopefully a 2100 or 2200 or something...I am not sure how HIGH i can go?...Or is there a big difference from the 1250 to 1500 to 1800 to 2100?...Will flight time be worth the extra $?...I am not sure of the Discharge Rates either...8C, 10C, 15C, 20C, etc.?

Any advise???

Thanks for the time and help:cool: ...

Cwiseguy

rcers
02-25-2007, 02:01 PM
I am not sure how HIGH i can go?...Or is there a big difference from the 1250 to 1500 to 1800 to 2100?...Will flight time be worth the extra $?

Your issue is space - the largest you can go is the Thunder Power Lite 2000 pack. It is roughly square and fits well. It will give you 15+ minutes of flight time - more than you likely want or need.

Mike

Cwiseguy
02-25-2007, 07:24 PM
Thanks for the reply...I found Thunder Power Pro-lite 2100 11.1v Li-poly Packs for $69.95 each with free shipping and $7 extra discount off each battery...The specs looked better and the size is fine too...I can use them on other things down the road if needed too...I hope they will be ok...They are from http://www.b-p-p.co ...Thanks for the help rcers...

Cwiseguy

rcers
02-25-2007, 07:31 PM
The specs looked better and the size is fine too
They won't fit......too long.

2100's = 4x1.25x3/4
2000's = 2.5x1 7/8x3/4



Mike

Cwiseguy
02-25-2007, 08:14 PM
These are the specs on my bay size...4 inches long, 1.75 wide, .80 high

Looks fine to me?

Cwiseguy

rcers
02-25-2007, 08:16 PM
The wires extend from the pack - so add at least a 1/2 there. I have both packs and the 2100's don't fit in mine....

Mike

Cwiseguy
02-25-2007, 08:18 PM
Thanks...

Cwiseguy

GeneH
03-23-2007, 07:22 PM
I first flew mine with a THP-1320 (about 2 years old, and capacity about 1200 mah) and quickly ran out of battery when not expecting it and crashed. During the repair, I completely removed the battery bay and glued in a plywood stick at an incline. One end attached to the upper firewall and the other end to the servo mounting stick. This gave ample room to use my THP-2100 and improved the performance and flight times.
Gene

speedpro 1
03-27-2007, 03:00 AM
my TP2100 packs fit nice in my fokker in the stock battery bay you just have to dremel a little on the bottom back part of the battery cover where its close to the battery. wires on the battery face foward and curve around go down the side of the battery

GeneH
03-29-2007, 12:19 AM
Looks good. I like your detail on the radiator, you painted it silver? and is that a radiator cap?
Gene

dmmalish
03-29-2007, 01:53 AM
i had a succesful maiden yesterday of my D II sure am glad i upgraded to a dual rate radio it was a handful on high rate but calmed right down to a nice flyer at low rates i think i overpowered it using the 2836-10 from heads up rc but it sure is nice when you get in trouble to be able to mash the gas and point er to the clouds i am very happy :D

speedpro 1
03-29-2007, 05:08 AM
yes painted silver and radiator cap installed

dmmalish
03-30-2007, 03:14 PM
took out the fokker this morning after a couple warm up flights with the superstar beautiful morning no wind took of nice take off got about 50 feet in the air banked left and straight into the ground she went ripped off the landing gear and took the motor and firewall out :( upon further examination it appears 2 things could have happened the rudder linkage at the servo appears to have come loose and the elevator is broke in the middle looks to weak at that point i say this because my brother had the same problem on his se5a appears to be a weak point on both aircraft so all owners may want to lokk at this area as a possible reinforcement point i will have it back in the air but a very dissapointing morning after having a very succesful maiden just 2 days ago but like i said it can be repaired so that is the good thing she will fly again with some mods

GeneH
04-02-2007, 02:05 AM
My elevator also broke in the middle and I reinforced it. Fortunately, I noticed it before flying.

The MacDaddy
04-11-2007, 04:08 AM
Hey all, just trying to get the "proper" description of this type of bi plane, you know when the bottom wing is smaller than the top, any one know the name?

Mac

max-nix
04-11-2007, 05:28 AM
Sesquiplane

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Biplane

A variation on the biplane was the sesquiplane, where the (usually) lower wing was significantly smaller than the other, either in span, chord, or both. On occasion, the lower wing was only large enough to support the bracing struts for the upper wing. The name means "one-and-a-half wings".
Famous biplanes include the Sopwith Camel (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sopwith_Camel), Avro Tutor (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Avro_Tutor), Antonov An-2 (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antonov_An-2), Beechcraft Staggerwing (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beechcraft_Staggerwing), Boeing Stearman (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boeing_Stearman), Bristol Bulldog (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bristol_Bulldog), Curtiss JN-4 (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Curtiss_JN-4), de Havilland Tiger Moth (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/De_Havilland_Tiger_Moth), Fairey Swordfish (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fairey_Swordfish), Hawker Hart (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hawker_Hart), Pitts Special (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pitts_Special) and the Wright Flyer (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wright_Flyer). The Stearman is particularly associated with stunt flying with wing-walkers. Famous sesquiplanes include the Nieuport 17 (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nieuport_17) and Albatros D.III (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Albatros_D.III). The vast majority of biplane designs have been fitted with reciprocating engines (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reciprocating_engine) of comparatively low power; exceptions include the Antonov An-3 (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antonov_An-3) and WSK-Mielec M-15 Belphegor (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/WSK-Mielec_M-15_Belphegor), fitted with turboprop (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turboprop) and turbofan (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turbofan) engines, respectively. Some older biplane designs, such as the Grumman Ag Cat (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grumman_Ag_Cat) and the aforementioned An-2 (in the form of the An-3) are available in upgraded versions with turboprop engines.

The MacDaddy
04-11-2007, 12:40 PM
Max, you rock! nice site btw!

Mac

migthymouse
04-22-2007, 03:32 AM
I got my Fokker D7 at the begining of the year --anyhow just had some nice flights yesterday (after my repairs)
I agree that battery box is way to weak--and I also put some ply in there
Also a electri fly 1500 lipo she balances on the money
I'm starting to get the feel of her -I'm use to flying single wing planes--and I'm not used to that drag. ( I've had a few nose over's)

one thing for sure I really like flying it and it sure looks awesome in the air-
the loops are good and the rolls on high rate are nice.

Those landings gotta keep some power and slow it way down and fly it all the way to the ground untill it stops or else, wobble wobble nose over haha! glad to see this site now I have a bunch of Fokker flyin buddies to talk too!

:cool:

jimx5000
04-22-2007, 04:05 AM
starting to think that I should take mine out of the box.:rolleyes:

79CJ
12-30-2009, 04:45 PM
I have just started working on my Fokker I got for christmas. I am not planning on doing a whole lot extra to it because it is meant to be flown, but I can't resist adding some scale details.

Like others I have added combing around the cockpit and spaced the guns further apart. I also sprayed the whole thing with Krylon satin clear to dull it down a bit.

Any other ideas for scale details? I am thinking of making a dummy engine and exhaust out of foam or card stock.

This is a crummy cell phone pic, but I have some better ones on my camera at home.

degreen60
12-30-2009, 08:29 PM
PM me your email address and I will email you an adobe file of a paper model Mercedes DIIIa motor. You can enlarge the file to the size motor you want and use it to make a motor for the plane. I glue the paper on foam. Make guns the same way.

barmonkey
12-30-2009, 11:09 PM
PM me your email address and I will email you an adobe file of a paper model Mercedes DIIIa motor. You can enlarge the file to the size motor you want and use it to make a motor for the plane. I glue the paper on foam. Make guns the same way.

Don, I am interested the files for both the motor and the Spandau guns...still have my e-mail?

I have started a tear down of my Fokker D.VII...starting with some of the radio gear and motor for the Nieuport. The D.VII did not want to give up it's parts. I suppose that's because it knew that those parts were going into an enemy plane ;-)

I plan to do mine in the colors of Carl Degelow of Jasta 40. It has a black fuselage, white tail and the dreaded lozenge wings :<: The emblem in the side is a white stag.

WWI Ace
12-30-2009, 11:20 PM
I fly one of these little Fokkers regularly. It's a fun little plane!!! Steve

degreen60
12-31-2009, 12:30 AM
Don, I am interested the files for both the motor and the Spandau guns...still have my e-mail?



I sent the files to 79JC then notice it was the wrong person. I still have your email and sent you a set. Here is the stag, I sent it too.

barmonkey
12-31-2009, 01:43 AM
Thanks Don!

Had to look really close at the engine plans...didn't make sense to me at first...LOL...now to do the math and blow them up from 1/33 to somewhere around 1/9 scale. With the D.VII will probably just need the tops of the cylinders and the rocker arms...and add an exhaust. I will probably just use the paper cooling jacket from the gun plans, and then add some flared muzzles to the kit's gun stock.

barmonkey
12-31-2009, 01:46 AM
79CJ, good thing about the D.VII is that you don't have to worry about adding flying wires.

One thing that can be done is to either paint the radiator grill black or to cut it out and add some wire mesh in it's place.

degreen60
12-31-2009, 02:14 AM
Thanks Don!

Had to look really close at the engine plans...didn't make sense to me at first...LOL...now to do the math and blow them up from 1/33 to somewhere around 1/9 scale. With the D.VII will probably just need the tops of the cylinders and the rocker arms...and add an exhaust. I will probably just use the paper cooling jacket from the gun plans, and then add some flared muzzles to the kit's gun stock.

I am going to bring my SE5A next time we fly together and take that Fokker out of the southern Indiana sky. I got another file on the guns I will send you.

barmonkey
12-31-2009, 02:47 AM
You may have to watch out for a Dr.I also!

79CJ
12-31-2009, 03:11 PM
I got some more work done last night. I tried to use the motor plan, but it was a bit much for me. I had a block of soft balsa, so I decided to just try and carve one up. I like where it is now, but I want to try and make the heads and valves a bit more realistic. I think I'll put some rust on the exhaust too. I also painted up the radiator, and will likely add some sort of cap.

reuben199
12-31-2009, 09:47 PM
79CJ,
Looking good, I did the same thing to my DVII engine cover, I also gave the whole thing a light dusting of dull coat.
It is a nice flying plane but I find that I have to give it a bit of rudder in the turns.... has anyone mixed rudder to ailerion on theirs? if so how much.
Cheers Reuben

79CJ
01-03-2010, 05:32 AM
I got a bit more done. Just waiting on my order from hobby king to move along from where I am now.

Finished the motor and pilot up.

WWI Ace
01-04-2010, 11:43 PM
Good looking bird CJ!!!! Steve

7car7
01-05-2010, 07:28 PM
Looks good 79CJ I like your mods.


has anyone mixed rudder to ailerion on theirs? if so how much.
Cheers Reuben

I don't have the Fokker DVii, but I have mixed rudder on all my planes. SE5 and Albatros really like it. I think it's about 40%. We all can do it with left thumb, and I do intentionally practice that a lot, but for general flying, it's nice to have it there. Plane is much more "safe" in it's characteristics, and scale looking, when switched on.

79CJ
01-05-2010, 08:52 PM
Thank you all for the compliments. It has been windy and/ or snowing every day for a while now, and no flying frees up time to build. I have started a scratch build (from plans) Camel that I am working on at the same time. Once I get the guts for the Fokker get here I'll be out no matter how cold it is, as long as the wind stops.

If it goes well I may start a thread for it, but the Camel has barely begun to take shape.

WWI Ace
01-05-2010, 11:38 PM
Reuben, I fly my Fokker D7 with a DX6 radio and have 20% rudder mixed with the ailerons. CJ, you're making me feel bad. I need to finish the Nieuport 11 I have "in the bones". Steve

79CJ
01-06-2010, 11:32 AM
Don't worry about it Ace - I am in law school and have been on break the past 2+ weeks. Once I get back to the grind and my job I won't have the time so I'm trying to get some done before then.

reuben199
01-06-2010, 10:27 PM
Reuben, I fly my Fokker D7 with a DX6 radio and have 20% rudder mixed with the ailerons. CJ, you're making me feel bad. I need to finish the Nieuport 11 I have "in the bones". Steve


Steve,
Thanks I will try that setting.
Cheers Reuben

Mongo40
02-03-2010, 12:26 AM
This thread got me motivated to build my DVII, I'm about as far along as 79CJ cept I'm in SW Oklahoma on Day 6 with no electricity, so not working on anything except keeping warm an waiting. I'm a Middle school art teacher and I build my models at school, the kids get a kick out of it, I give them their assignment then work on mine. No school tomorrow again, so be setting here on the internet reading the post again. (I have a generator running my house if you were wondering how I was on the internet) WWI Ace I use a DX6 also and if I can't figure it out I might be asking you how to set up the rudder Mix,

79CJ
02-03-2010, 05:23 PM
This may be a bit of a newbie question, but I don't know how to connect my motor wires to the ESC. The ESC is a hobby city 25A, and I have a turnigy motor. The ESC is labeled A, B, C, and the motor has 3 wires, red, black, yellow.

How do I find out what connects to what? If they are hooked up wrong, will connecting the battery damage some componets?

Thanks.

degreen60
02-03-2010, 05:31 PM
This may be a bit of a newbie question, but I don't know how to connect my motor wires to the ESC. The ESC is a hobby city 25A, and I have a turnigy motor. The ESC is labeled A, B, C, and the motor has 3 wires, red, black, yellow.

How do I find out what connects to what? If they are hooked up wrong, will connecting the battery damage some componets?

Thanks.

Hook up the wires, if the motor runs the wrong direction swap 2 of them.

79CJ
02-03-2010, 06:41 PM
Hook up the wires, if the motor runs the wrong direction swap 2 of them.


Do you suppose the yellow wire would go to C?

Thanks.

degreen60
02-03-2010, 08:51 PM
Just hook each wire on the motor to one of the wire on the ESC. If the motor then runs the wrong way swap 2 of the wires. All windings on the motor are the same, each wire come from one winding. Each wire on the ESC is sending pulses phased to cause the motor to run and to detect that the motor is turning. They can not be hooked up wrong unless you hook more that one wire on each together, then the ESC will just shut down. I have ESC and motors that the wires all one color.

79CJ
02-03-2010, 10:05 PM
Thanks for the info degreen.

WWI Ace
02-03-2010, 11:50 PM
Let me know when you're ready for the DX6 help Mongo. I'll help you out!! No problem!! Sounds like you got the worst of the storm. We got a little ice and 8 inches of snow. No power outage though. Steve

Mongo40
02-04-2010, 12:00 AM
Thanks Ace, it will be awhile before I'm setting the Dr1 up, still working on the DVII, school starting back tomorrow but still no electricity, they are saying maybe Monday.

Mongo40
02-04-2010, 05:00 PM
Did you guys have to buy the screws to mount the plywood motor mount to the motor, the ones on the rimfire motor holding the metal mount on are not long enough to mount the wood one and they didn't supply any in the bag.

WWI Ace
02-04-2010, 11:28 PM
Its been a long time since I built mine but I think it came with the screws. Steve

Mongo40
02-05-2010, 01:30 AM
I went through all the screws, there are the three long ones to connect to the firewall, two other long ones for the bottom wing, an three or four small ones for something else but they are to small for the holes in the motor mount, then a bunch of little wood screws and thats it.

barmonkey
02-05-2010, 02:12 AM
Been a while since I first built mine also...pretty sure the small bolts for the motor to mount did not come with the kit. I got some from the LHS. I used hex head bolts of the size suggested in the instructions. Pretty sure they were packaged by Dubro.

barmonkey
02-05-2010, 02:27 AM
I am thinking they were "3mm x 6 Socket Head Cap Screws" Dubro part number 2121

Just make sure they dont hit the coils on the motor. You may need to back space the screws with some washers as I don't recall if the instructions called for 3mm x 4 or not.

You will also need a 2.5mm hex driver or hex key for those bolts.

Mongo40
02-05-2010, 02:46 AM
Figures, I'm over an hour from nearest hobby store but I've got a list of things I need, guess I'll head over Saturday and get the rest of what I'm needing. Appreciate the info fellas
Chris

barmonkey
02-05-2010, 05:55 PM
Just make sure you check the instructions for the size...I don't want you driving an hour to get the wrong stuff =0

Biplane Murphy
02-05-2010, 07:15 PM
I would bring the motor, and the mount!

79CJ
02-10-2010, 11:38 AM
Alright, I've got my D.VII all together and I've got a few questions.

The hinges on my ailerons are stiff, and I feel like it works the servos hard to move them, is this a concern? With that, even zeroed out, the aileron servos chatter a bit, but the rudder and elevator ones don't, what could be a reason for this?

Also, the recommended way of hooking up the ailerons uses 2 rods and some heat shrink wrap holding them together. I did it, and the link seems weak, there is flex in the middle. Any ideas on how to sure this up?

Finally, the motor I am using has a 3mm shaft, but my wood props have 5mm shaft holes. This is the motor I'm using - http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=2112
Is there some sort of collet or ring I can buy with a 3mm inside diameter and a 5mm outside diameter that slides over the shaft to center the prop?

Thanks. I hope to get her maidened soon, but with 12"+ of snow on the ground, it could be a little while.

Biplane Murphy
02-10-2010, 04:03 PM
I scrapped the linkages they provided.
Then I installed dubro micro pushrod sets with ezconnectors.

WWI Ace
02-10-2010, 11:31 PM
I flexed my hinges a few times before I hooked up the aileron linkages. This may get rid of you servo binding problem. I also had to get some wire out of my scrap box and make longer pushrod ends. Spacers for the wooden props I'm not sure about. Have you looked on Hobbycity to see if their wooden props have smaller holes? Or you can use a plastic prop and paint it to look like wood. All of us do it this way alot. Steve

79CJ
02-11-2010, 12:49 PM
I guess I'll just have to cut out the hinges and do them again. I have some piano wire and ez connectors too, I'll make some linkages up with that as well.

Anyone know about some sort of collet for the prop?

Other than these issues it is done. Here are some finished pics. I printed some Axial propeller logos and "glued" them on the prop with some clear nail polish. I also shaped up the prop a bit so it looked more scale.

Biplane Murphy
02-11-2010, 04:13 PM
I guess I'll just have to cut out the hinges and do them again. I have some piano wire and ez connectors too, I'll make some linkages up with that as well.

Anyone know about some sort of collet for the prop?

Other than these issues it is done. Here are some finished pics. I printed some Axial propeller logos and "glued" them on the prop with some clear nail polish. I also shaped up the prop a bit so it looked more scale.

I don't think you need to cut out the hinges.

Just unhook the pushrods, and then move the surfaces as far as they will go, a bunch of times. That should do the trick.

TM4197
02-11-2010, 09:21 PM
Very nice job!!

degreen60
02-11-2010, 10:51 PM
Also, the recommended way of hooking up the ailerons uses 2 rods and some heat shrink wrap holding them together. I did it, and the link seems weak, there is flex in the middle. Any ideas on how to sure this up?


My SE5A uses the same setup on the ailerons. Both from the servos to ailerons and between the ailerons(4 joints). Instructions said to CA the ends of the heat shrink after shrinking tight. The CA made the joint strong. I like the method so well I have used it on some of my other planes.

Percyflyer
02-19-2010, 04:13 AM
The kit should have had the machine screws for the motor mount. You can use the ones for the mount that comes with the kit. And, the Turnigy motor comes with machine screws for the included mount that will also work.

I would not recommend a wooden prop. Unless you want to use a prop every flight. The APC slow flyer props work very well for these models, plus they come with prop inserts to fit your motor shaft.

The aileron linkage problem seems like you don't have the heat shrink tubing shrunk enough. It will shrink to make the wires tight and a drop of CA will bind them together and make a strong linkage. This is the common linkage in most indoor foamy kits.

Make sure your model balances. I find all of thia series fly best slightly nose heavy.

steve
www.hoosierdawnpatrol.com (http://www.hoosierdawnpatrol.com)

79CJ
02-19-2010, 06:56 PM
Maybe I'll cut the tubing off and try again with some new tubing. My issue is that the 2 wires don't overlap in the center much at all. Probably only 1/8" overlap, so it just tends to bend there. I have the servo arms in the center of the holes, so it's not like they are super far away. Maybe when I re-do them I'll bend up a longer wire for one end too.

Thanks for the heads up on the prop. Maybe I'll just put the wood one on for display.

degreen60
02-19-2010, 07:13 PM
I have a wooden prop on my Sopwith Tripe. I found the prop fits perfect over the nut that threads on the 3mm shaft so I have a nut then washer for back of prop to hit, nut to center prop, washer to clamp front of prop, and clamping nut. I been flying it for about a year now with no problems.

79CJ
02-19-2010, 07:34 PM
I think I'll take the motor to the hardware store and see what I can find in those bins of odds and sends they have. Plus, I want a nut for the shaft anyway, the conical spinner just looks silly on a WWI plane even though a few did have them.

Percyflyer
02-19-2010, 09:06 PM
Your right, the wires need to overlap a lot more than 1/8". The ones in my kit almost doubled the length.

If you bought the Turnigy motor it has a plain prop nut with it.

steve
www.hoosierdawnpatrol.com (http://www.hoosierdawnpatrol.com)

79CJ
02-20-2010, 04:24 PM
I'll bend up some wires and put some new shrink wrap on them.

I have this motor and it came with the spinner on it- http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=2112&Product_Name=TR_28-30B_14A_1050Kv_Brushless_Outrunner

Mongo40
02-24-2010, 12:23 AM
I got my DVII together today and was checking the controls an ran the motor up, when I went to give it full throttle it make a funny noise almost like grinding and would stop running, once I pulled the throttle back a little it would start running again, anyone experinced anything like this. I'm using the recommended RIMFIRE motor and ESC.
Chris

Mongo40
02-25-2010, 01:58 AM
Here's a couple of pics, I think, yeap looks like the rest of'em!!!

121584

121585

scalercflyer
02-25-2010, 02:44 AM
Not ANOTHER RED FOKKER!!!! :eek::D Nice job! ;) Marty

79CJ
03-12-2010, 04:19 PM
I have tried searching, and I have come across some threads here and on other forums, but no solid ones on Arizona Models lozenge covering. Has anyone used it/ put it on their Fokker? There is a thread over at rcgroups from when it first came out and different fabrics/ coverings they were trying out. The website now says it is an iron on covering. It is pricey, but if the product is great it could be worth it for a re-cover down the road.

Thanks.

WWI Ace
03-12-2010, 06:13 PM
Does it come in the right scale? Steve

brutus251
03-12-2010, 06:37 PM
I contacted them a while back and they said it was a lage scale covering. Again that was quite a while ago ,they might have scaled it down but I doubt it.B

79CJ
03-12-2010, 06:39 PM
It says it comes down to 1/12. These Fokkers are around 1/10 correct?

brutus251
03-12-2010, 06:48 PM
I just checked out the AM site. Thats new,If Im not mistaken there was only one size available. 1/12 th is in the ball park,I guess we just have to figure what scale these are and find out if they can do it. Im in for a few yards if they can. B

79CJ
03-12-2010, 07:12 PM
I just did he numbers using the size of the real D.VII from Wikipedia, and the wings are 1/9.75 scale in length, and the fuse is 1/10.1 scale in length. So, about 1/10 scale.

brutus251
03-12-2010, 07:29 PM
Unless Im mistaken thats bigger than 1/12th so I guess we know where to get the covering from. If you order some let us know how it works out. Ive got the DV11 kit and the Spad kit sitting on the bench,I was going to start the DV11 but Ill do the Spad first and see how you make out with it if you are going to order it. B

79CJ
03-12-2010, 07:36 PM
Yeah, it's bigger. It is kind of pricey and I was hoping someone on here has had some experience with it. I haven't flown my Fokker yet because of the winter weather, but I will be soon. I see a crash in my near future, so it will require some level of recovering in the repair. I'd really like to do lozenge, I just don't want to go into the AM stuff sight unseen and spend $60 on it.

brutus251
03-12-2010, 07:55 PM
I hear you 100%, $60 is $60 . I bought most of the stuff to do the recovers I want to do over the last 6 mos. a bit at a time. I knew it wouldnt be untill now that Id have time to get around to it but I wanted to have what I needed on hand. Nothing sucks more than having to wait on something you need and hadnt planned on. Now Im stoked about doing the Fokker,I guess Ill go have a nip or two and figure out whats next .After all it is Friday and its after 12:00 ;-). B

79CJ
03-12-2010, 09:15 PM
Ha, sorry I gave you the bug to recover your Fokker. If you do go though with it, make sure to post some pics up like the nice recover job you did on your Neiuport.

brutus251
03-12-2010, 09:56 PM
Im sitting here goint thru the WingsPalette site looking for a scheme to do! Do you know of any other sites with GOOD illustrations like these and Gaetan Maries ? Im leaning to Lothar Von Rs with the yellow back but Id need the lozenge to make it correct and I really dont have the cash to get it from A.M. A while ago I found a thread about making youre own,as I remember it didnt seem all that hard just time consuming. Ive got plenty of time to consume I just think the price is a bit high for what I want to do.I wish I could find that thread again. B

79CJ
03-13-2010, 02:07 AM
Ron did his with a sharpie in post #45 - http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10319&page=2

Here's another thread for some homemade lozenge - http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48398

Here is a really nice Udet scheme with great lozenge on a GP D.VII - http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34702

brutus251
03-13-2010, 02:31 AM
Great stuff,Im completly confused at this point. Nothing has hit me in the face yet. When I saw the German version of the N11 it was like a light went off and I knew Id be doing that one. Same thing with the German version of the Spad. But Ive seen a crap load of DV11s but nothing that grabs me. I might have to invent one! Who knows what that might look like!! :rolleyes: Brutus

79CJ
03-15-2010, 04:17 AM
I really like the Jasta 40 planes, that will likely be what I end up doing. Probably Carl Degelow's plane.

I'm thinking about getting this book about him as well - http://www.amazon.com/BLACK-FOKKER-LEADER-Peter-Kilduff/dp/1906502285

degreen60
03-15-2010, 05:57 AM
Here is a foam Albatros with printed paper lozenge glued on the wings. I have printed on tissue paper but not lozenge. You could try printing your own on either paper or tissue.

brutus251
03-15-2010, 01:31 PM
CJ,thats a nice looking version,the original DV11 recover I did was black and white. The first few times I flew it was in a smaller field and it looked great. Then I packed it up and headed out to the site I used to have access to that was huge,you guessed it, all of a sudden I lost orientation and down it went,a total wreck. If I was smart I would have left the entire underside white but that would have been SMART! I think I have a pic. of it,if so Ill post it. Im hoping the N11 is easier to follow.Don,I had no luck printing the crosses you sent me for the N11 so I used them as a guide to cut them from monokote. I wouldnt even attempt Lozenge,yours looks nice though. B

Mongo40
03-15-2010, 10:19 PM
79CJ, that looks like an interesting book, would like to know if its any good or not myself.

79CJ
03-16-2010, 11:22 AM
79CJ, that looks like an interesting book, would like to know if its any good or not myself.

I thought so too. I reserved a boook about Richthofen written by the same guy from the library, and as long as the guy isn't a terrible writer I'll go ahead and order it. If I do, I'll surely let you know if it is good.

brutus251
03-16-2010, 08:11 PM
Heres the DV11 before its demise.The eyes aint what they used to be so whatever recover I do will probably have a one color bottom to help with orientation. Bhttp://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o236/roberto139/000_0010-6.jpg

flydave
05-11-2010, 03:10 AM
Here are a few shots of mine- my camo is from Arizona Models (It Ain't Cheap) It looks great and is easy to work with-very tough!

7car7
05-11-2010, 04:50 PM
brutus and flydave, those are great looking planes! Nice job on the covering.

WWI Ace
05-12-2010, 12:24 AM
Those look great guys!!!! Steve

flydave
05-12-2010, 02:19 AM
I recently crashed it but all that was damaged were a wing strut and the firewall-that gave me the excuse to add "more power". It was a bit underpowered with the added weight of the camo,dullcoat and hangar 9 pilot plus 12 ft of white monocote stripes.

79CJ
05-12-2010, 07:59 PM
Here are a few shots of mine- my camo is from Arizona Models (It Ain't Cheap) It looks great and is easy to work with-very tough!

Your Fokker looks great. You are the 1st person I've found that has actually used the AZ modeler's stuff. I don't mind the price tag as long as it is a quality product. So is it an iron on film?

How much did you buy/ use to cover that much of your Fokker? Not something you want to be buying extra of just because.

flydave
05-13-2010, 04:03 AM
So is it an iron on film? ......YES

How much did you buy/ use to cover that much of your Fokker? Not something you want to be buying extra of just because.

The minimum order is 3 ft. I think I purchased 4ft of the 5 color.
Call the number listed on the website so he will get the right scale for you.

79CJ
05-13-2010, 04:36 AM
Thanks for the info. You've sealed the deal for me, I'll be recovering the wings of my Fokker with lozenge sometime in the near(ish) future.

79CJ
05-24-2010, 02:27 PM
I put the Fokker in hard yesterday, bashed the nose in quite a bit. I've begun repairs, hopefully it will be ready to fly again by next weekend.

I know everyone likes crash pictures, so here they are. The final 2 are the progress I've made on repairs.

degreen60
05-24-2010, 02:40 PM
That will teach you to keep away from my SE5A. You don't have to worry about rebuilding it either, just box it up and ship to me. LOL

7car7
05-24-2010, 04:55 PM
Wow, that's some carnage, but I'm very happy for you that the wings were spared - they're so much harder to repair and still have look good.

Any idea what caused it? No matter what it was, so many of us can probably relate!

79CJ
05-24-2010, 06:12 PM
Any idea what caused it? No matter what it was, so many of us can probably relate!

Haha, pilot error. I suppose I'm like the one guy in prison who admits he's guilty.

I've flown it 3 times, moderate damage on the 1st flight - 45 second flight ending in a crash, 2nd flight went much better, I hit LVC and had to glide in, just bent up the landing gear a bit. This flight I was near the end of the battery, landed once. I decided it went pretty well so I took off again to do another landing and got mixed up too low to recover.

There is a reason they had cemeteries next to the training fields. This is my 1st alieron plane after learning on a Super Cub. I'm still getting the hang of it, I suck at coordinated turns, I can't keep the throttle steady while using the rudder. Thankfully these Electrifly planes are so much sturdier than the old guillows planes I used to fly control line with my dad as a kid. A guillows plane would be a pile of sticks after a crash like this.

I have found a good way to fix the interplane struts when they break though. I glue them back together, then wrap the broken area tightly with thread and cover the whole wrap with clear dope. I've broken the same strut twice, the second time right next to the 1st repair. In this unscientific test I'd say the repair is at least as strong as the wood is alone.

7car7
05-24-2010, 06:47 PM
Oh boy, I sure remember the 1st aileron thing, seems like yesterday. I've only been flying since '07. That whole concept of banking the plane, and then "UN" banking it, well, it was a challenge!

I know some don't like it (feel it's a crutch), but I really enjoy using mixing on my radio. If your radio does mixing, it's a lot of fun to use. I've linked my rudder to the ailerons. It can be turned on and off by a switch. Turns are very "pretty", and it really helps in a jam with these biplanes.

I equate it to learning to drive a car with an auto vs stick. Learn the act of driving first, then learn a stick (again some will dis-agree).

Oh, one more thought. If your radio allows it, you can put more tension on your throttle movement, and less (or keep same) on your rudder movement. (talking at the transmitter). This will keep the throttle from moving as easy when using the rudder.

79CJ
05-24-2010, 08:31 PM
I've got a DX5e, so no mixing. I took my driving test in a manual, so I guess I'm destined to do things the hard way. I guess it's not really a problem, it's just good I like the building (and repairing) side as much as I like to fly.

I feel like a neck strap might help so I don't have to hold the TX while I control it. I might be able to use the sticks more precisely then.

Thanks for the encouragement!

WWI Ace
05-24-2010, 11:45 PM
Sorry to hear about the crash!! I've done it plenty of times so don't feel alone!

79CJ
05-25-2010, 06:18 PM
No big deal really. I knew when I bought it I was going to crash it, but I went agaisnt conventional wisdom and skipped an alieron trainer. I was confident enough in my re-build skills to take the risk. I just have to avoid a real hard hit where it isn't fixable (and then I'll send it to degreen - shiping will be nil, it will fit in a shipping envelope)

It's fun to be a second from disaster the entire flight. Makes the battery seem like it lasts a long time.

degreen60
05-25-2010, 07:37 PM
I have forgotten how many times I have rebuilt the wings, front of the fuselage, and landing gear on my GP SE5A. I still loose track of which way is up sometimes and that means another rebuild. Send me the DVII, it will no long look like a GP plane when I get done with it.

7car7
05-26-2010, 03:58 PM
it will no long look like a GP plane when I get done with it.

he he! 3 wings? Monoplane? Canard? I'd love to see what you'd do with it!

Not to hijack, but I'd love to make a DVI out of a DR1 (conventional biplane, but looks like the tri-plane)

degreen60
05-26-2010, 06:38 PM
he he! 3 wings? Monoplane? Canard? I'd love to see what you'd do with it!

Not to hijack, but I'd love to make a DVI out of a DR1 (conventional biplane, but looks like the tri-plane)

I have my next foam scratch built almost done. I will post pictures as soon as I get it painted. It has passed test flights. It is a model of a very rare WW1 era flyer that flew out of the dark forest and was thought by both sides to be a secret weapon of the other side. Both side shot them down till there were none left. Only rumers tell that it even exsisted. I found a paper model on the net that I modified into flying model. I will post pictures and tell more on the WW1 thread in a couple of days.

79CJ
05-27-2010, 01:00 AM
he he! 3 wings? Monoplane? Canard? I'd love to see what you'd do with it!

Not to hijack, but I'd love to make a DVI out of a DR1 (conventional biplane, but looks like the tri-plane)

I've seen some of the odd Fokkers, but I really like the look of the D.VI. If you have the money a D.VII and Dr.I kit bash would be sweet. Then you could make triplane with the Dr.I wings and the D.VII fuse to really mix things up...

brutus251
05-27-2010, 01:33 AM
CJ,just a thought,when I rebuilt my last DV11 I canned the stock battery tray in favor of an angled bottom load. The batt. slipped right into the fuse behind the motor. So I tilted the batt. a bit rearward so the bottom of the batt sat touching the back of the ply the motor is attached to and made a balsa brace the top of the batt. touches.Put some velcro where it makes contact and its much easier to change batts,you dont have to remove the cowel .The biggest thing was when I did the CG over,it needed an ounce and a half less lead to balance.I guess if you were looking at a cutaway view of the fuse from the side,the batt. would lean from the 7:00 to the 1:00 position. Just a thought. B

79CJ
05-30-2010, 03:21 PM
I've put the front end all back together. I just need to get a new cowl, the last one was smashed to pieces.

Thats a great idea brutus, too bad I got it all back together before I read your post!

degreen60
05-30-2010, 06:10 PM
I've put the front end all back together. I just need to get a new cowl, the last one was smashed to pieces.

From the picture it looks like the top of the cowl is good. That is the part of the cowl that has rounded part. I think you can make the rest of the cowl using flat plastic and screen wire.

bicyclemonkey
05-30-2010, 09:40 PM
What motors is everyone using in the DVII? I'm looking for one from hobbyking but all the motors I find have four mounting holes instead of three like the Electrifly recommended Rimfire 400. What are my options here? Which is a good choice from hobbyking?

brutus251
05-31-2010, 11:43 AM
2830/09 from Heads Up RC, Ive got three of them in my EFly WW1 fleet. I have two of the Rimfire motors also and I dont notice any difference in performance plus at less than 1/2 the price and $2 shipping its a no brainer.Contact Scott at Airland Hobbies and ask him for the motor adaptor,they are cheap and save a bunch of time not having to make one,unless you like to tinker.B

degreen60
05-31-2010, 12:40 PM
What motors is everyone using in the DVII? I'm looking for one from hobbyking but all the motors I find have four mounting holes instead of three like the Electrifly recommended Rimfire 400. What are my options here? Which is a good choice from hobbyking?

I have a 2410-08 from HK in my GP SE5A. Use a 9X7 prop with 3s and it flys great. Had to make a new mount to hold the motor.

bicyclemonkey
05-31-2010, 03:26 PM
What about this one? It's the same dimension as that Rimfire 400 (28x30) and approx same kv and watts.

http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=2112

I have some motor mounts on the way from airland hobbies to mount a standard 4-hole motor

flydave
06-01-2010, 04:23 AM
I've put the front end all back together.
I did a ground loop- ripped the whole front section of the bottom out on mine this morning,
Luckily it went back together pretty easy:ws:
I am using a park 480 motor nice power!

79CJ
06-11-2010, 12:57 PM
I was ready early this morning, so I figured Iíd take my Fokker out for a flight before work. It was dead calm. I got some good flying in, but then I got too high and lost orientation and before I knew it I was in a spin. I panicked and just mashed the controls. It was a BAD crash. Iím not sure what Iíll do. I may have to buy a new upper wing, it is really smashed into sticks. Iím thinking it will get put away for a little bit until the sting wears off. I took a few pictures of it loaded in the car with my cell phone. There are lots of little pieces in my equipment box next to it.

With so much damage, I may try to make a more scale front end because I'm going to be rebuilding the whole thing anyway. Although, with crashes like this there doesn't seem to be much of a point in that!

brutus251
06-11-2010, 01:41 PM
Thats too bad,it sucks when they come in that hard. I feel for you,Ive been there too.At least you can keep your building skills sharp:). B

79CJ
06-11-2010, 02:19 PM
Thats too bad,it sucks when they come in that hard. I feel for you,Ive been there too.At least you can keep your building skills sharp:). B

Haha! They're sharp alright. If only I could stay airborne long enough to exercise my flying skills in the same way!

7car7
06-11-2010, 03:49 PM
That's heart breaking for sure. Really bummed for ya.

It might be time for a new airframe with that one. Unless you make a LOT of changes, typically repairs only add weight, which makes them more likely to crash hard anyway.

7car7
06-11-2010, 03:52 PM
btw, those photos sort of reinforce my thoughts about how so many planes are built - the rear half is over built.

You hardly EVER see the tail section broken. If the tail section can be built lighter (weaker), then the front can be that much lighter also.

dbcisco
06-11-2010, 05:23 PM
I almost cried at the site of that poor fokker.
My sympathy.

79CJ
06-11-2010, 05:37 PM
The kind comments are why I read/ post in this forum as opposed to others - a lot of good people here, thank you all.

Don't feel too sorry for me, crashes happen when you're learning. I'll probably end up just making a new front end that is simple and boxy and just mate it to the tail. With that much damage, I'm just going to try to make it a nice training platform. The only part that I am iffy about fixing is the upper wing, one side of it is pretty much shattered. I'll be able to tell better once I get off work and go home.

The creative juices want me to make it into a D.VI...

degreen60
06-11-2010, 07:09 PM
Now is the perfect time to get rid of that red paint scheme. My SE5A has looked like that a couple of times and it is still flying.

79CJ
06-11-2010, 10:21 PM
I'm home and I've surveyed the damage. The bottom wing isn't really bad at all, clean break in the center. The top wing on the other hand... The one side is just destroyed. I'm not sure how I'll get it back together. Looked at Tower Hobbies for a replacement, $35, kind of steep. I'll figure it out. Motor shaft is bent, glad I ordered some extras so they're already on hand.

The way the front is so destroyed really has me thinking about making it a D.VI.

scalercflyer
06-12-2010, 12:03 PM
Nothing pleasent about a post mortem. It looks like a total to me CJ. :( Hopefully you can glean something from her. :) Marty

WWI Ace
06-12-2010, 02:17 PM
I hate to see that you lost your plane but it sounds like you're optomistic about rebuilding it.

degreen60
06-12-2010, 03:29 PM
This is just the chance you need to change the paint scheme. Take the covering off the crashed wing. Piece the broken ribs together to make a pattern. Get out the balsa, knife and start cutting new ribs. Make new leading and trailing edges to fit what you can salvage of the wings. Where the new leading edge meets the old cut a groove length wise in both ends. Glue a piece in the groove to hold both pieces together. I try to make the joint between ribs and cut the back of the leading edges off between the ribs to make the groove. Then the piece I add runs unbroken from rib to rib.

79CJ
06-12-2010, 04:44 PM
I've started removing covering, lots of broken stuff in the wings. The problem with making a rib pattern is that in the top wing each rib is different. I'll figure something out though.

degreen60
06-12-2010, 05:59 PM
I scratch built a DVII about 1970 and made the ribs by making a plywood root rib and tip rib. Stacked balsa sheet wood for each rib between the plywood ribs with the slot for the spar lined up. Sanded all the balsa to match the angle between the plywood ribs. Maybe you can do the samething. Easy way to make ribs for tapered wing.

79CJ
06-14-2010, 06:37 PM
Well, I've got the wings back together. Almost all the ribs were broken in some way, but the monokote held it together so I still had most of the pieces which was nice.

Next to be repaired is the fuse. I'm not terribly worried about it, except for the thrust angle for the motor mount. Any ideas on how to get that right? Not nearly enought left of the front end to reconstruct the angle from the factory.

I'm running a Hobby King Turnigy 28-30 motor and the prop shaft that bolts on the frint of it is bent, anyone know if you can just buy this to replace it? I bought spare motor shafts, but that isn't what is bent unfortunately.

brutus251
06-14-2010, 07:09 PM
Im not sure if you can buy that piece but Jeff at Heads up rc can set you up with a new motor cheap if you have to go that way. When I lawn darted my first DV11 I just made a thin ply firewall to bolt it to ,then I installed it I just eyeballed about 1/8" right and a tiny bit of down ,glued it up and it was fine .It handled just like it did before, not the lawn dart part but the rest of the flying characteristics were the same.:D When I put the cowl on the motor lined right up with the hole with just a tiny bit of material having to be removed. It flew like a champ.Good work getting those wings put back together by the way.Bob

scalercflyer
06-14-2010, 07:20 PM
CJ You must'a been good at jigsaw puzzles as a kid! :eek: Amazing! :D Don't know if I would have put her back together again. marty

brutus251
06-14-2010, 07:23 PM
I agree Marty,first class work,thats way out of my league as far as rebuilding goes. B

79CJ
06-14-2010, 07:30 PM
CJ You must'a been good at jigsaw puzzles as a kid! :eek: Amazing! :D Don't know if I would have put her back together again. marty

Ha, actually my other half is the one that loves puzzles - too tedious for me, I can't stand them. Somehow I don't find this tedious...

It really wasn't that bad, far easier than I thought it would be. All I did was fix one thing at a time, a few hours later spread over a few sessions and I had two wings.

Im not sure if you can buy that piece but Jeff at Heads up rc can set you up with a new motor cheap if you have to go that way. When I lawn darted my first DV11 I just made a thin ply firewall to bolt it to ,then I installed it I just eyeballed about 1/8" right and a tiny bit of down ,glued it up and it was fine .It handled just like it did before, not the lawn dart part but the rest of the flying characteristics were the same.:D When I put the cowl on the motor lined right up with the hole with just a tiny bit of material having to be removed. It flew like a champ.Good work getting those wings put back together by the way.Bob

Yeah, I'm thinking the same thing. > $10 will get me a whole new motor. Being a student still, I'd like to fix it as cheaply as possible. Plus, it just feels like a waste because the motor is still solid, just seems like there should be a way to use it!

7car7
06-14-2010, 07:39 PM
Very impressive job on that wing.

This is a GREAT time to do a serious custom one of a kind job here. I say do the DVI. Would be a lot easier to fab up a round cowl from a bottle or something. And it would be really unique.



And yes, a color change will be awesome!

degreen60
06-14-2010, 08:10 PM
I'm running a Hobby King Turnigy 28-30 motor and the prop shaft that bolts on the frint of it is bent, anyone know if you can just buy this to replace it? I bought spare motor shafts, but that isn't what is bent unfortunately.

Take the bent shaft out of the motor. Roll a on a piece of glass(flat surface). When the high spot in the middle of the shaft is up hold the shaft that way. Take shaft to a solid piece of steel and using a hammer, tap the shaft on the high spot. Take the shaft back to the glass and check by rolling. Keep tapping and rolling till the shaft is straight.

79CJ
06-14-2010, 08:27 PM
Take the bent shaft out of the motor. Roll a on a piece of glass(flat surface). When the high spot in the middle of the shaft is up hold the shaft that way. Take shaft to a solid piece of steel and using a hammer, tap the shaft on the high spot. Take the shaft back to the glass and check by rolling. Keep tapping and rolling till the shaft is straight.

The problem is that it isn't the motor shaft that's bent, it's the prop shaft that bolts on the front of the motor. You can see it in this link - http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=2112&Product_Name=TR_28-30B_14A_1050Kv_Brushless_Outrunner

Because of the flange that bolts to the motor, you can't roll it. Thanks for the suggestion though.

Anyone have a pics of a D.VI in color that aren't lozenge. I may just make up my own scheme because there were so few D.VI's.

scalercflyer
06-14-2010, 08:52 PM
I'm sure you can get another shaft from HK for your motor. Look into it. :D Come to think of it, I've gotten the shaft a few times myself during some ebay deals I've been involved in. :eek: Marty

brutus251
06-14-2010, 08:57 PM
Cj,if its the part with the thread try putting a couple of prop nuts on it to protect the threads . Put it in a vise and try tapping it ,its aluminium so it should straighten without too much force. Hell it cant hurt,if that doesnt work turn the motor around and get a collet adaptor ,youre making a new firewall so that shouldnt be a problem. Bob

alpine
09-01-2010, 10:12 PM
I'm saving up the money so I can pick one of these up, hopefully soon. Looks like a beautiful bird. One thing that draws me away from this plane (not too much...at all lol) is the fact that it only has ailerons on the top wing. Seems like the others would handle better, but I also feel like that little bit gives the plane more originality.

How does everyone like they're Fokker? I plan on running the recommended setup from GP even if it is a little costly. I even want to give the plane a little paintjob to a better scheme. This ones just a bit bland.

brutus251
09-01-2010, 10:30 PM
The plane is super ,one of the easiest flying of the whole WW1 series. Ive recovered and dressed up a couple of them.Since the real one just had two ailerons I dont see why there would be more on the model. I just finished a new one.Its amazing what a bit of colored tape and a quick spray of paint will do. Ill try to post a pic. later. I have the recomened power set up in my DR1 and SPAD but for less than half the price of just the rimfire motor and esc you can get the same spec stuff from Jeff at Heads Up RC plus the servos too and only $2 shipping. I have Heads up stuff in all my others and they fly as good or better. B

brutus251
09-02-2010, 05:49 PM
Its been way too hot and humid all summer to concentrate on doing the recover on my other DV11 so I decided to build a new one and do minor changes just so I could have one to fly,I guess Im having Fokker withdrawl http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o236/roberto139/000_0014-6.jpgsymptoms.Its not done yet but it should be ready to go on Mon. providing Earle doesnt do too much damage. Heres a shot or two,just red and white tape and some white spray paint on the wheels. Brutus http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o236/roberto139/000_0011-7.jpg

alpine
09-02-2010, 09:51 PM
That's a beautiful Fokker! Nice and simple touch-ups, just like I want to do to mine.