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shane.barton
09-29-2006, 04:45 PM
I am seriously considering the GREAT PLANES FLING for my next venture into the wild blue wonder. I was browsing through the thread on rcgroups.com and heard nothing but praise for this plane. I also learned alot of inportant and simple "upgrades" for it. Does anyone here have any experience with it?

-Shane

adrenaline
09-30-2006, 01:43 AM
Yup, I have one......if you get one you will be pleased....

Be careful with the film as if you try to re-shrink it it can be trouble.....

Great little flyer and good value, even her in the UK....:)

JimNM
09-30-2006, 07:12 PM
Shane - my only "must do" for you is to replace the pull-pull teflon string. I went NUTS tying and re-tying the control cables. We have "spyder wire" available stateside from walmart and I've had good sucess with that. The teflon will slip on you and it makes getting enough throw on the rudder a challange. I used EPA to reduce elevator to about 25%, and I increased rudder to 125% - makes all the difference in the world. I have tip-launched the Fling (HLG) for about a year now. It really does better off of the mini-hi start.

Have fun

JimNM

shane.barton
10-01-2006, 06:49 AM
JimNM,
I think I should be able to get some spider wire here on base, if not, Okinawa is huge on fishing so I should be able to go to the nearest fishing store and pick some up (or equivelant). Unfortunately I do not have a computer radio (yet), still using a Futaba 4YF. I have been looking at the Tower-Hobbies 6-channel radio ($119 w/o servos). I think I will be sticking with glider planes for some time so it should be sufficient. I also heard (read actually), that increasing the area of the rudder makes a huge difference as well. If I play with the placement of the pull-pull strings for the elevator maybe I can mechanically decrease the throws (???).

Sky Sharkster
10-01-2006, 12:33 PM
Hello Shane, to decrease the throws mechanically you have two options;
(1) At the servo end, move the pull-pull attachment INWARD, towards the hub of the servo arm.
(2) At the elevator end, move the pull-pull line attachment OUTWARD, away from the hinge line (outer holes of the control horn).
Hope this helps, good luck with the "Fling"!
Thermals,
Ron

adrenaline
10-01-2006, 05:01 PM
no problem with the teflon threads and they work great.......

moving the threads at one end only will cause one thread to go slack under movement....

only way to reduce/increase movement is epa.........

JimNM
10-02-2006, 05:18 AM
Teflon by nature is slippery - I kept having to re-tie the strings due to slippage. FWIW - I'm not a boy scout or sailor, so my not tying may have been the source of frustration. Syperwire worked great for me.

Luck to you
JimNM

shane.barton
10-03-2006, 04:42 AM
Would something like this... http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD859&P=7 work well? I am not familiar with the "sizes" they mention( i.e. 4-40), but am sure someone can explain that to me. Perhaps this... http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAPC6&P=7 would be better for the FLing??

shane.barton
11-06-2006, 03:49 AM
Well, it looks as if nobody suggested the micro pull-pull systems I had. In second thoguht, I think i'll just use the spider wire. It's essentially weightless and is available right off hand. Still waiting to get the fling thought. If I order it next weeki 'd say by the middle of December I should be flinging it up, with a few of the mods i've read about of course.

shane.barton
11-25-2006, 04:58 AM
Just reporting that I flew the Fling for the first time yesterday. I was out at the local soccerfield for 4 hours just tossing it around and getting a good feel for the plane. I am VERY SATIASFIED with it's charictoristics, except for the sluggish rudder autthority. More report to follow.

rocket_jim
11-25-2006, 08:35 PM
Just reporting that I flew the Fling for the first time yesterday. I was out at the local soccerfield for 4 hours just tossing it around and getting a good feel for the plane. I am VERY SATIASFIED with it's charictoristics, except for the sluggish rudder autthority. More report to follow.
I'm sure you already know this, but it takes not only rudder, but also back stick (up elevator) to make a turn with a R/E sailplane.

I've flown electric planes mostly, and yesterday I flew my Fling for the first time. At first I thought it was rudder-unresponsive. The local experts watching me struggle pointed out that I had to use the elevator to control the turn, and they were sure right! On my Fling, even with the rudder already extended to about twice the original size as a result of reading about it on-line, hard rudder does little or nothing to turn the plane. But give it some rudder to roll the Fling and then pull back on the stick, and it turns as sharp as I could want. In fact, I may reduce or eliminate the rudder extension to see if I really need it at all. I suspect that I added so much rudder area that I made the stab significantly larger, affecting the wind-cocking of the plane.

As always, YMMV. Try it without and with back stick and see how yours works for you, even if you do enlarge the rudder.

shane.barton
11-25-2006, 11:34 PM
YMMV??? What is that?

Now that you mention it (about using elevator with rudder), it did seem to turn better. I will try again today to make sure i'm thinking correctly.

Thanks for the heads up!

-Shane

rocket_jim
11-26-2006, 02:48 AM
YMMV??? What is that?

Now that you mention it (about using elevator with rudder), it did seem to turn better. I will try again today to make sure i'm thinking correctly.

Thanks for the heads up!

-Shane
YMMV -- Your Mileage May Vary

On powered planes, the propwash makes things work at least a tiny bit differently than on a pure sailplane where only the forward velocity gives control authority. On my Fling when I've forgotten to use the elevator along with the rudder, it simply would not turn.