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View Full Version : Unknown RTF EP Corsair at Hobby-EStore.Com


tmarcincavage
10-22-2006, 02:50 PM
There is a low-dollar ($98) foam RTF F4U Crosair listed at www.hobby-estore.com (http://www.hobby-estore.com). Has anyone delt with these folks? Prices seem EXTREMELY reasonable - including shipping. Can anyone identify the manufacturer of the Corsair? Size is similar to the GWS ARF and equipment seems to parallel Wattage RTF - except the 370 motor is geared 5:1. I want to step-up from my Red Hawk (what a POS for a trainer - multiple rebuilds and mods before it would fly a straight line and perform predictably). I hate the idea of plowing a hi-dollar, hard-to-repair plane into my pasture - for $115 delivered, I think I may just give this "unknown" a shot.

kahloq
11-06-2006, 06:12 AM
Its a modified GWS

CGFlyer
11-06-2006, 04:34 PM
Is this plane worth getting? Is it cheap and glitchy rx/tx setup like the Art-Tech stuff?

When my skills increase, I would like to purchase the hangar 9 corsair. Do you gentlemen think $100 is great to learn on like this?

kahloq
11-06-2006, 05:29 PM
Is this plane worth getting? Is it cheap and glitchy rx/tx setup like the Art-Tech stuff?

When my skills increase, I would like to purchase the hangar 9 corsair. Do you gentlemen think $100 is great to learn on like this?

What is your level of flying experience?
Do you already have at least a 4-channel radio?
Have you flown low-wing planes before?
Flown planes with ailerons?

Since this plane is basically a GWS Corsair, it will fly about the same. So, with the included motor this hobby-estore F4U comes with, it will fly, but it wont fly fast and wont be very agile. For someone with less experience, this is probably a good thing. Most people that have the GWS Corsair use a better motor and battery setup then this one has in it. For the price, its not bad I suppose.
The GWS Corsair is supposed to be one of the easier warbirds to fly, so as long as this one is about the same, it should do ok. The issue though is if the center of gravity is correct. If these planes(as well as GWS planes) are set too far back, then they are close to unflyable. The GWS Corsair must have a CG of between 50mm and 56mm from the leading edge of the wing along the fuselage. The farther forward the CG is, the easier it is to control, but makes landings a little faster. The farther back it is, the more unstable it will fly if at all. It is better nose heavy then tail.

For the price, it seems like an awful lot to get, so I am concerned with the radio quality and servo's/rx, etc. This doesnt mean it will be bad though. If you do get it, make sure you do a thorough range test and try to get someone with much more experience to help you at your local flying area.

CGFlyer
11-13-2006, 07:11 PM
Yep, fly 4 channel now on my Wing Dragon 4 from hobby-lobby. Love it. I know its a high wing versus low wing. The corsairs in the sims all fly great and smooth, but I have never flown low wing in real life.

I may grab one of these and see how I like it before dump $500 into a ful Hangar 9 .60 setup and fly with some local buds first.

kahloq
11-13-2006, 08:45 PM
Yep, fly 4 channel now on my Wing Dragon 5 from hobby-lobby. Love it. I know its a high wing versus low wing. The corsairs in the sims al flyer great and smooth, but have never flown low wing in real life.

I may grab one of these and see how I like it before dump $500 into a ful Hangar 9 .60 setup and fly with some local buds first.

I highly suggest you get some real stick time on foam warbirds like this one or the GWS planes before dropping money on a much larger and much, much more expensive Hanger 9 or other brand. Theres a huge difference in stability and landing characteristics between any simulator(even G3) as compared to real world model flying. For one, I cannot get virtually any plane in G3 to tip stall, but it can happen easily with real r/c planes, especially warbirds. If you already have a radio, I would lean you towards the GP Electrifly Corsair. This is a simple build and flies very stable for a low wing plane. It comes with a brushed motor and all you need to add is 2 servos, rx,speed control and battery. Since you already have a 4-channel radio and presumably a battery for your dragon(depending on size), your are better off going this route or building a GWS Corsair(also pretty easy). Slope glider kits for GWS are $27. If you crash(which you will at some point) GWS are easy to fix and you can replace parts easy with slope glider kits. That hobby-estore one does not have separate parts you can buy. I highly recommend going the GWS or Electrifly route instead. I have both planes so I know how they fly at various weights as well.

Theres a huge amount of resources available on rcgroups on the GWS Corsair and GP Electrifly F4U. I recommend reading through some of those. RCUniverse is great for information on glow planes like the Hanger 9 Corsair you want to get. For a cheaper alternative and still looks decent, CMP has various sizes of the Corsair, but they take alittle more work with building then a Hanger 9. CMP are still ARF's and great planes though. Go here:
http://www.ak-models.com/cmp_f4u_corsair_90.htm
The CMP 90 size Corsair is larger then the Hanger 9 60 size. The CMP also is cheaper and has functional flaps, plus all the control surfaces are already pre-hinged for you.
Hanger 9 wingspan: 65.25" cost 269.99
CMP wingspan: 75.5" cost 219.95

The retracts that come with the hanger 9 are not very sturdy and you'd better change them for soemthing better like Robart. There are a number of people in my flying club with the Hanger 9 plane and they all say the retracts are not durable. Since the CMP doesnt come with retracts, you have saved the money compared to the hanger 9 plus you get a larger plane. Larger usualy means they fly better and are more stable. Dont take my word for it though, please do searches on RCUniverse and rcgroups for both planes.

tmarcincavage
11-15-2006, 02:45 AM
I broke down and ordered one of the F4U's from Hobby-EStore on Saturday. In Mexico for a week, so probably won't get to fly this weekend, but I'll post as soon as I can get it in the air. It can't be any worse than trying to get my Red Hawk to fly - what a POS. I might have chosen a different route than the Hobby-EStore if I could ahve salvaged the radio gear from the Red Hawk, but you can not turn off the V-tail mixer function in the receiver (per the mfr), and since it still flys (now that all mods are done), I'll pass it along to my son. I also took a chance and added one of their helicopters - $76 RTF - figured my wife needed something to tear up furniture with.

tmarcincavage
11-29-2006, 03:58 PM
Here are my comments to Hobby-EStore.com after assembly of my Guanli Corsair. Seems to be a hell of a buy for $98 + $14 in shipping, for the complete airplane, powerplant, and radio (a Futaba knock-off). I expect to have the "re-engineering" done by 12/02 - I'll file a flight report following.


I completed assembly of my RTF Corsair this weekend. In general, it's a nice unit - especially for the price. Here are a few initial comments.

Packaging: The unit arrived with the canopy split in two pieces, the motor-mount loose, and several large gouges in the under-side of the wing where the right-stick from the transmitter had pierced it. There was also loose hardware in the box, and I never did find one aileron-servo mounting-screw. Repairs were relatively easy, but the instructions should include technical specifications, such as off-set angle (right and down) for proper motor position, as well as recommended throws for control surfaces and the center-of-gravity position.

Instructions: Assembly was relatively simple, with little use of the instruction sheet (I've built similar units before). However, for a beginner, the assembly should include a little more detail on each of the actual steps required. Note the above recommendation for additional specifications.

Aileron Linkage: The ends of the wires had created holes in the aileron foam, due to the off-set angle between the control-rod and the aileron hinge center-line, which causes the rod-end to move in or out with the up/down motion. This hole would have allowed significant "flutter". I enlarged the holes and filled them with epoxy, with glass-cloth on the upper and lower surfaces. The linkage is now very solid, but the force required on the servo is higher than I would like to see. I think a better solution would be two very flexible control-rods (plastic in a plastic tube), routed in two opposing "U" shapes inside the wing when it is cast - attached to standard control horns on the upper control surface (to avoid damage in landing). I will send pictures once my conversion is complete.

Motor: My initial launch attempts seemed to indicate that the motor was not adequate to make enough speed for good take-off, even on pavement. When running, especially at lower RPM's, it made a rather loud "grinding" noise. It sounded more like the brushes, rather than either bearings or the gear-reducer. After several attempts, which finally resulted in a broken prop, I ran the motor for an extended time (about 20 minutes total) with no prop, at both high and low speeds. The "grinding" now seems to be less - we'll see on the next attempt if it has resulted in improved high-speed performance.

Balance: Even with the battery as far forward as possible, the plane is still slightly tail-heavy - should be close enough to fly, but I'm curious as to why such a large battery compartment for such a small battery. The majority of the compartment appears to be too far rearward to be of any use. CG is not listed on instructions, but hobby-estore advised that it is indicated by the "trough" on the under-side of the wing. Note: I wonder how much impact the turbulance from this "trough" impacts flight characteristics.

Wheels: I would recommend looking at GWS's foam wheels. I think ground handling would be much better on asphalt and with adequate diameter (2-1/2"+) I think grass launches should be possible.

Esparrago
03-30-2007, 11:37 PM
Hi Guys,

I had a very bad experience with my Guanli Zero fighter it is very porr quality constructed.

I am a newbie but I had an exper look at it and said it is way underpowerd.


Do you guys know what kind of modifications I can make?

Would the current transmitter work with a brushless motor?


I want to use this gear with a slowstick, Is it possible?


Here are my comments to Hobby-EStore.com after assembly of my Guanli Corsair. Seems to be a hell of a buy for $98 + $14 in shipping, for the complete airplane, powerplant, and radio (a Futaba knock-off). I expect to have the "re-engineering" done by 12/02 - I'll file a flight report following.


I completed assembly of my RTF Corsair this weekend. In general, it's a nice unit - especially for the price. Here are a few initial comments.

Packaging: The unit arrived with the canopy split in two pieces, the motor-mount loose, and several large gouges in the under-side of the wing where the right-stick from the transmitter had pierced it. There was also loose hardware in the box, and I never did find one aileron-servo mounting-screw. Repairs were relatively easy, but the instructions should include technical specifications, such as off-set angle (right and down) for proper motor position, as well as recommended throws for control surfaces and the center-of-gravity position.

Instructions: Assembly was relatively simple, with little use of the instruction sheet (I've built similar units before). However, for a beginner, the assembly should include a little more detail on each of the actual steps required. Note the above recommendation for additional specifications.

Aileron Linkage: The ends of the wires had created holes in the aileron foam, due to the off-set angle between the control-rod and the aileron hinge center-line, which causes the rod-end to move in or out with the up/down motion. This hole would have allowed significant "flutter". I enlarged the holes and filled them with epoxy, with glass-cloth on the upper and lower surfaces. The linkage is now very solid, but the force required on the servo is higher than I would like to see. I think a better solution would be two very flexible control-rods (plastic in a plastic tube), routed in two opposing "U" shapes inside the wing when it is cast - attached to standard control horns on the upper control surface (to avoid damage in landing). I will send pictures once my conversion is complete.

Motor: My initial launch attempts seemed to indicate that the motor was not adequate to make enough speed for good take-off, even on pavement. When running, especially at lower RPM's, it made a rather loud "grinding" noise. It sounded more like the brushes, rather than either bearings or the gear-reducer. After several attempts, which finally resulted in a broken prop, I ran the motor for an extended time (about 20 minutes total) with no prop, at both high and low speeds. The "grinding" now seems to be less - we'll see on the next attempt if it has resulted in improved high-speed performance.

Balance: Even with the battery as far forward as possible, the plane is still slightly tail-heavy - should be close enough to fly, but I'm curious as to why such a large battery compartment for such a small battery. The majority of the compartment appears to be too far rearward to be of any use. CG is not listed on instructions, but hobby-estore advised that it is indicated by the "trough" on the under-side of the wing. Note: I wonder how much impact the turbulance from this "trough" impacts flight characteristics.

Wheels: I would recommend looking at GWS's foam wheels. I think ground handling would be much better on asphalt and with adequate diameter (2-1/2"+) I think grass launches should be possible.

rllama
07-04-2007, 10:09 AM
Hi Guys,

I had a very bad experience with my Guanli Zero fighter it is very porr quality constructed.

I am a newbie but I had an exper look at it and said it is way underpowerd.


Do you guys know what kind of modifications I can make?

Would the current transmitter work with a brushless motor?


I want to use this gear with a slowstick, Is it possible?

Too i, with my Guanli Messerschmitt B-109. Do not fly, and its underpowered. Who nows the possible solutions?. Thanks.

Mingus the Red
07-05-2007, 02:49 PM
I had a buddy get me a cheap little RTF electric corsair he saw on ebay for a b-day present, ( He is not in the sport,and therefore did not realize the possible "flaws" to say the least that were potentialy in such a cheap little kit.)
I still do not know who makes the darn thing,as it doesn't give a manufacturer name anywhere on the box or in the manual. (Which is 85% chinese)
But packaging was good,assembly went fairly smoothly,though the engine was mounted on a stick of balsa that was just kinda shoved into the front of the fuse. So I did have to fix that up a bit.

But other than changing out the battery included with a lipo that worked with it,I did nothing else to it.

To my astonishment,The thing is a beast! It flies fairly fast,(I'm guessing right around 45-50 mph) But WOW the agility on the thing is ridiculous. The plane will do like 6 consecutive loops in a row from level flight,rolls 4 times in the time it takes my pz spit to complete one roll!
( Not to take away from my spit,I never leave it outta my site,love that bird)
But for a $72 corsair off ebay,never in my wildest dreams would I have thought such a kit would have such fantastic performance.
**Not for the faint of heart/brand spanking new beginner though. It's insane agility will put ya into the ground from 80 feet up before you can blink if your not paying close attention to what your doing.

But take a look for yourself on ebay(I havent seen em anywhere else),it's still got dozens of em on there.
just search for "rc pirate corsair" or somthing along those lines. You'll see em. Its got a little skull & cross bones on the cowling.

But for a >$100 purchase,it's a great little fun and challenging number to fly.

rllama
07-05-2007, 04:06 PM
[quote=tmarcincavage;112887]There is a low-dollar ($98) foam RTF F4U Crosair listed at www.hobby-estore.com (http://www.hobby-estore.com). Has anyone delt with these folks? Prices seem EXTREMELY reasonable - including shipping. Can anyone identify the manufacturer of the Corsair? Size is similar to the GWS ARF and equipment seems to parallel Wattage RTF - except the 370 motor is geared 5:1. I want to step-up from my Red Hawk (what a POS for a trainer - multiple rebuilds and mods before it would fly a straight line and perform predictably). I hate the idea of plowing a hi-dollar, hard-to-repair plane into my pasture - for $115 delivered, I think I may just give this "unknown" a shot.[/q
The manufacturer is GUANLI (CHINESSE).-

rllama
07-05-2007, 04:08 PM
Perhaps with a brushless electric motor it can fly!

FlyCrashFixRepeat
10-11-2007, 03:49 AM
I had a buddy get me a cheap little RTF electric corsair he saw on ebay for a b-day present, ( He is not in the sport,and therefore did not realize the possible "flaws" to say the least that were potentialy in such a cheap little kit.)
I still do not know who makes the darn thing,as it doesn't give a manufacturer name anywhere on the box or in the manual. (Which is 85% chinese)
But packaging was good,assembly went fairly smoothly,though the engine was mounted on a stick of balsa that was just kinda shoved into the front of the fuse. So I did have to fix that up a bit.

But other than changing out the battery included with a lipo that worked with it,I did nothing else to it.

To my astonishment,The thing is a beast! It flies fairly fast,(I'm guessing right around 45-50 mph) But WOW the agility on the thing is ridiculous. The plane will do like 6 consecutive loops in a row from level flight,rolls 4 times in the time it takes my pz spit to complete one roll!
( Not to take away from my spit,I never leave it outta my site,love that bird)
But for a $72 corsair off ebay,never in my wildest dreams would I have thought such a kit would have such fantastic performance.
**Not for the faint of heart/brand spanking new beginner though. It's insane agility will put ya into the ground from 80 feet up before you can blink if your not paying close attention to what your doing.

But take a look for yourself on ebay(I havent seen em anywhere else),it's still got dozens of em on there.
just search for "rc pirate corsair" or somthing along those lines. You'll see em. Its got a little skull & cross bones on the cowling.

But for a >$100 purchase,it's a great little fun and challenging number to fly.

I just purchased the same plane mentioned above and pretty much agree with everything Mingus the Red said. This is my first real RC plane beyond an Air Hog so I decided to jump right in. The kit comes with everything (even extra props) and it flys pretty nice once you get the hang of it (and it is relatively cheap!). For $54 plus $40 shipping (from ebay), it is a pretty good deal. They had quite a few available if you search "F4U Pirate Corsair". I have flown it 4 times and crashed it three times (with one nice landing) but each crash has been fixable with glue and some patience. I have been practicing with FMS and think I am getting better so I hope the crashes are less fequent. I also painted a large yellow stripe on one wing to help with orientation. Based on the other RTF foam warbirds I have seen, I would recommend this plane.

alt-148
01-07-2008, 11:53 AM
Wait until you put a brushless to it!
I did so (930KV, 10x8 GWS prop, 2s) and it flies extremely well.
You could also download the GWS manual of the F4U from their site; it has some tips that also apply to the GuanLi version.
Don't fly this baby during dusk/dawn. The dark blue sceme creates confusion with lesser light available. Painting her belly (partly)white helps a lot.

skywaypatrol
01-16-2008, 11:22 PM
I like the colorful box

Triple-Ace
01-17-2008, 11:21 PM
So is the GWS Corsair, Zero, or spitfire worth buying? .. like do they fly without any upgrades?

alt-148
01-21-2008, 07:43 AM
I can only speak for the Corsair. It does, but it is slightly underpowered.
You better invest in some extra GWS props (10x6 or 9x7) right away. The prop that's delivered with the model is no good at all.

With this tiny adaptation, it is very stable so you can start from the standard set-up and upgrade later on.

FlyCrashFixRepeat
03-03-2008, 01:40 PM
Wait until you put a brushless to it!
I did so (930KV, 10x8 GWS prop, 2s) and it flies extremely well.
You could also download the GWS manual of the F4U from their site; it has some tips that also apply to the GuanLi version.
Don't fly this baby during dusk/dawn. The dark blue sceme creates confusion with lesser light available. Painting her belly (partly)white helps a lot.

Thanks for the reply...

Would just replacing the 9.6 nimh with a 11.1 Volt 3 cell lipo make a noticable difference? (an earlier post mentioned using a lipo) If so, will a 11.1 work with the stock speed control? I bought the plugs to make an adapter but don't want to ruin my lipo or motor.

Also, has anyone weighed their F4U? Mine weighs closer to 500 g (not 400 g)? Any ideas to reduce weight?

alt-148
03-03-2008, 02:27 PM
Mine came with a 8.4V NiMH package...
Therefore I chose to use the original brushed motor with a 7.4 LiPo pack first.

I would not recommend to use this motor on 11.1V, lifetime is already short as indicated in multiple forums regarding this model (sorry, no links at hand)

Better to change to brushless!

FlyCrashFixRepeat
03-03-2008, 05:23 PM
...
Better to change to brushless!

Thanks for the advice, was not sure if the stock brushed 370 could take 11.1 Volts. Would like to try, but worried about burning something out?

I would like to go to brushless, but am not sure the motor or speed control to buy. I would like to use the 3 cell 1300 mAh 11.1 volt LiPo battery I already have from another foam edf to save money. I weighed the original 9.6v NiMH 600 mAh at 102 grams and my LiPo is 107 grams so it should work. My local hobby store was not much help and sort of told me I needed to spend about $100 to go brushless (more than I paid for the whole F4U!). If I can go brushless for maybe <= $50 I would consider... any ideas for motor and SC. Also, would I need some sort of adapter to mount to the wood stick now used to hold the gearbox?

easytiger
03-03-2008, 05:58 PM
I have the P-47, Me109, A-10, and Catalina.

ALL of them flew okay with the NIMH packs and brushed motors.
All of them flew BETTER with a 3 cell lipo. Flew GREAT, as a matter of fact. Particularly the P-47. Motor life has been fine, ESC can handle it, radios have been fine, too. Lots of fun.
So, at least for now, skip the brushless conversion, get yourself a 3 cell 1300 lipo, and have a blast for very little money.
I got mine from nitroplanes.com but there are plenty of other sellers.
I'm really happy with Guanli...

easytiger
03-03-2008, 06:30 PM
Too i, with my Guanli Messerschmitt B-109. Do not fly, and its underpowered. Who nows the possible solutions?. Thanks.

Mine flies. Try adding a 3 cell lipo for more power.

FlyCrashFixRepeat
03-03-2008, 08:52 PM
I have the P-47, Me109, A-10, and Catalina.

ALL of them flew okay with the NIMH packs and brushed motors.
All of them flew BETTER with a 3 cell lipo. Flew GREAT, as a matter of fact. Particularly the P-47. Motor life has been fine, ESC can handle it, radios have been fine, too. Lots of fun.
So, at least for now, skip the brushless conversion, get yourself a 3 cell 1300 lipo, and have a blast for very little money.
I got mine from nitroplanes.com but there are plenty of other sellers.
I'm really happy with Guanli...

easytiger,

What motors, speed control, and batteries (voltage, mAh) did your stock airplanes have? Did your Lipo get very warm when used? I am a little worried that there is no ventilation in the front of the F4U battery area. Also, my Lipo is a little taller than the stock nimh battery so I would need to shave a little to get it to fit in the battery area.

easytiger
03-03-2008, 09:13 PM
easytiger,

What motors, speed control, and batteries (voltage, mAh) did your stock airplanes have? Did your Lipo get very warm when used? I am a little worried that there is no ventilation in the front of the F4U battery area. Also, my Lipo is a little taller than the stock nimh battery so I would need to shave a little to get it to fit in the battery area.

All of them have 25a ESCs and 650mah 8.4v nimh, except the catalina, which uses a 1000mah 8.4 nimh.
On the ME109, I had to shave a teeny bit to fit the lipo in, but not on the others. None of the batts get even warm, so I would not worry about that...

alt-148
03-04-2008, 07:42 AM
Thanks for the advice, was not sure if the stock brushed 370 could take 11.1 Volts. Would like to try, but worried about burning something out?

I would like to go to brushless, but am not sure the motor or speed control to buy. I would like to use the 3 cell 1300 mAh 11.1 volt LiPo battery I already have from another foam edf to save money. I weighed the original 9.6v NiMH 600 mAh at 102 grams and my LiPo is 107 grams so it should work. My local hobby store was not much help and sort of told me I needed to spend about $100 to go brushless (more than I paid for the whole F4U!). If I can go brushless for maybe <= $50 I would consider... any ideas for motor and SC. Also, would I need some sort of adapter to mount to the wood stick now used to hold the gearbox?

You can check out HiModel, good quality/money balance.

Slowjohn
03-04-2008, 12:29 PM
Jeff at www.headsuprc.com (http://www.headsuprc.com) can help you with what your wanting. You can email him thru a link on his eBay store site. Failing that you can also reach him at headsuprc@yahoo.com

Also on his site the specs are listed for each motor along with specs for each prop that motor can use safely. He also has self help guides to get you started.

Hope That Helps,
SJ

easytiger
03-04-2008, 02:10 PM
I think you will be very happy with the power you get from simply changing to a three cell lipo, and leaving the brushed motor. The cost of the conversion is $20, and the thing flies great.
Brushless power is more efficient, and quieter, for sure, but before spending the bucks, just try this out. After all, if you are going brushless, you will need to buy the lipo battery anyway, so why not just buy the battery first and check it out? My P-47 will do ten foot diameter loops all day, power is not an issue...
Good luck...