Gws Estarter

[we77we77]

I just got home from my LHS with my first e-starter w/the eps-400c power system.I already have a futaba 4yf/two s3108 servos , a electrifly c-10 esc and a 7.2v 650mAh NIMH pack. I know I need one more servo and a higher amp esc. What would be a good esc,battery pack and charger for the this plane and power system ( one that I don't have to mortgage the house for)?
Thanks,
Mike

[Steve]

For that motor and plane you should really get a 3S lipo. A 1350mah or so would be nice and light. A 7.4V battery will not fly that motor.....not very well anyway. An alternative would be a KAN 750 (or so) 8 cell NIMH. Much heavier than the lipo, but would power the 400 well.

Another consideration would be the 10amp ESC. With the 400 motor, you should go to the higher 20A ESC.

Your best bet might be to use the 350 motor with the D gear and a 1047 or 1147 prop with 7 cell KAN 750's. The 350 is much lighter, will draw fewer amps and spin a fairly large prop without overdriving the 10A ESC.

My experience with the eStarter tells me to build as light as possible and use the 350 motor.

[we77we77]

Thanks, Steve that points me in the right direction.If I go with the lipos what would be a good charger?
Thanks again,
Mike

[Doppelganger]

When you build your E-starter. You may want to add a little more down thrust angle on the mounting stick. The stock E-Starter has a ton of dihedral that creates a huge amount of lift. You won't need nearly that much. If you add a little more down thrust, you can then trim your elevator to tweak it. The E-starter will be a lot easier, and fun to fly.

Steve

[Steve]

I've had a few chargers. Started with the Hobbico that has two charging ports. Works fine, but sometimes it will overcharge NIMH's. I decided not to trust it for lipos. Also had a small charger like this which was very reliable and impossible to set up wrong:

http://www.allerc.com/product_info.php?cPath=9&products_id=1321

I now use the Hobbico in the field and a Triton in my shop. The Triton is $120 so it's not cheap, but it can charge anything...including my dry cell batts I use in my field box.

I agree about the down thrust also...but doesn't the estarter have that built into the mold where you mount the motor stick?

[Doppelganger]

Yes it does have it. It just isn't enough. Now, if you took the dihedral out of the wing, like I do, then the built in thrust angle is adequate.:)

Steve

[we77we77]

How many degress down thrust would you advise to add from the stock angle? I will try any tricks you guys know. I am here to learn and help with what I know ( that should not take long)
Thanks,
Mike

[Doppelganger]

I am here to learn and help with what I know ( that should not take long)


:D Thats pretty funny. But after your build of the E-Starter, you'll have plenty to share.:) I'd say perhaps two degrees. I usually just eyeball it.It doesn't have to be extreme. Even 1 degree would certainly help.

Steve

[Twmaster]

This is a great thread. Even I am learning something. I'm building an E-Starter and it is getting a TowerPro 2410-08 and 2S lipo

[we77we77]

I think for now I am going to go with the power system that came with the plane.Today I picked up a GWS 9.6V/750mAh, Hitec HS-55 feather servo and a Electrifly C-20 esc. I thank with what I already have this should be a good start, at least until I get my flying skills up to where I am really good with this set-up. If you guys see anything amist with this, please let me know.
Mike

[Doppelganger]

You guys may also want to reinforce the fuse with a carbon rod. Or at least use packing tape on the aft end of the fuse. It will make the plane more survivable if you should doink it.

Steve

[Twmaster]

Mine is getting two pieces of 1.8MM CF rod inside the fuse.

[Eggvoel]

I have been flying my Estarter since Feb., my 1st plane and taught myself to fly it. Thanks to these sites I gained a wealth of information. I started with the 400 and D gearing that came with the plane, but directly went with 2c1500mah lipo's. Being my 1st airplane with no experience I didn't realize how much of a dog it was, but I had fun and became very adept at using epoxy and gorilla glue. With the 400 I also had to add weight to the tail for correct CG.
After a couple of month flying I got a Formosa for my next airplane. I didn't feel ready to fly it yet and after reading alot of forums, I put the 350 with B gearing on the Estarter. It is lighter and I could remove all the weight from the tail. To me, it felt like going from a 4 cyl to a V-6. I'm still flying it with the 350, tried different gearing and the B or C seems to be the best with a 9070 prop.
Now Ifly the Estarter to get my thumbs warmed up and then go to the Formosa which for my skill level keeps me very occupied, but brings on the smiles. Larry

[Doppelganger]

I really enjoy flying my E-Starter. Like I've posted on other threads, I kit bashed the heck out of it. But now I have a great aerobatic plane that rolls faster that most of the other planes out there. It's pretty stable in the wind and it's just a blast to fly. Hard to believe it only cost me 29.00.:eek: I had a Formosa, killed it when my GWS receiver died in flight. I didn't like that the battery compartment was so small. I had to do some kit bashing to get my batts to fit.

It was an on-off love affair with that bird. Now I find that I miss flying it. I may buy another. Lately I've been wanting to buy balsa planes. They really do fly well. Also, one of the best flying foam planes out there, is the GWS Spitfire. If you build it right, and light, it tracks like a bloodhound and slows to a craw before tip stalling. Usually, it just drops the nose insted of tipping.

Sorry I was all over the place. It's 5:30 am, and I'm about to load up for the field!:D Man, I wish my wife had wings.;)

Steve

[we77we77]

I think am going to go with out the LG for now. I have a quick (maybe dumb too) question,The GWS Instructions are not real clear, where do you cut the alierons away from the wing. At the TE of wing or LE of alieron?Theres that step down area at the TE of the wing. Looks kind of odd where ever you cut it. Thanks,
Mike

[Steve]

The estarter is meant to be a first aileron plane and fly relatively slow. I found it to be pretty tail heavy and it was difficult to fit in larger lipos in the battery compartment. Eventually, I had a brushless on it, but it still flew pretty clunky 'cause by then I had a lot of epoxy on it.

[Doppelganger]

I think am going to go with out the LG for now. I have a quick (maybe dumb too) question,The GWS Instructions are not real clear, where do you cut the alierons away from the wing. At the TE of wing or LE of alieron?Theres that step down area at the TE of the wing. Looks kind of odd where ever you cut it. Thanks,
Mike

I wondered about that very same thing when I built my first E-Starter. I cut mine @ the trailing edge of the wing. Then beveled the ailerons. The last three GWS planes worked out really well. I'm flying my E-Starter again. I really do love that bird.:) The E-Starter will fly like a pig if you don't remove some of the dihedral from the wing.

Steve

[Steve]

I used balsa ailerons on mine and they worked well. If I built another one, I'd probably glass the foam ailerons. I guess the paradox with the eStarter is, if you build it stock, it's pretty fragile and you wind up doing a lot of repairs...and if you mod it to withstand the usual dork ins, it's too heavy.

What did you use for dihedral?

[Eggvoel]

Just a quick note about using the 2c lipo's. This is/was my first airplane and after much research on these sites I decided not to use the 3c lipo's and have to worry much about throttle management to keep from buring up the 400 motor. With the 2c I just left it at full throttle and paid attention to the flying part of it. They work well with the 350 motor as a trainer.
Having said that, now that I have some experience behind me I would like to upgrade to the 3c and brushless or put the 400 motor back on, but conversion would be too pricey at this time.
My Formosa (2nd plane) runs well on the 2c 350 motor combo, but as I gain experience with that also a 3c upgrade and brushless would be nice. But, these 2 are my learning planes and I will fly them until not salvageable and then hopefully upgrade. To what? don't know yet.
On the battery charger side, I have been using an inexpensive (about $20.00) AC lipo charger (can't think of the name right now) and althought it takes about 2 hours to charge it is an inexspensive way to go. Now that I have 4 batteries, my future charger will cost more and will have to be able to charge at least 2 batteries at once and have the flexibility of charging 1-3 cells. My charger is for 2c only.

[we77we77]

Sounds good to me.I also am going with a laminated fiber hinge.
Thanks,
Mike

[Doppelganger]

Eggvoel, Your next plane should be a Mini Sportster from Geat Planes. There is a thread on WattFlyer for this bird. It's a great low wing "trainer" so to speak. It also comes with the Motor,gearbox, and propeller for 75.00. It's an ARF balsa plane and it's designed very well. It builds quickly, and it flies like a dream. Also, the plane will fly well with the stock 400 motor.

Steve

[timocharis]

The stock 400 will survive 3s LiPos if you decide to try that.

My Estarter got smooshed bad in a mid-air, but rather than retire it I chopped and channeled it (lowered the wing, took out the dihedral, shortened the fuse between the tail and wing).

It turned into a semi-interesting plane. So if you dork yours hard, give that a shot. Foam cuts easy!


Dave North

[Eggvoel]

Eggvoel, Your next plane should be a Mini Sportster from Geat Planes. There is a thread on WattFlyer for this bird. It's a great low wing "trainer" so to speak. It also comes with the Motor,gearbox, and propeller for 75.00. It's an ARF balsa plane and it's designed very well. It builds quickly, and it flies like a dream. Also, the plane will fly well with the stock 400 motor.

Steve Thanks Steve, I'll check out the mini-sporster. Since I have been flying the Formosa and it is a low wing, do I need to go with a trainer? I have hopes after much more experience to try a flat foamie 3D. Larry

[Eggvoel]

The stock 400 will survive 3s LiPos if you decide to try that.

My Estarter got smooshed bad in a mid-air, but rather than retire it I chopped and channeled it (lowered the wing, took out the dihedral, shortened the fuse between the tail and wing).

It turned into a semi-interesting plane. So if you dork yours hard, give that a shot. Foam cuts easy!


Dave North What do you cut the foam with that doesn't tear it? larry

[ChuckB]

I use my wife's electric kitchen carving knife. Works great. Have been using for years and she has not said a word to me.
Chuck B.

[timocharis]

Larry,

For smaller cuts you can just use a _new_ x-acto blade. For larger cuts I prefer a fine hacksaw or coping saw, depending. Don't forget to allow for the kerf!

After that, sand to taste. I like the dark corundum wet/dry sandpaper.


Dave "Hacksaw" North

[Doppelganger]

Thanks Steve, I'll check out the mini-sporster. Since I have been flying the Formosa and it is a low wing, do I need to go with a trainer? I have hopes after much more experience to try a flat foamie 3D. Larry

It's not really a trainer. It just flys that well. If you liked the Formosa, you'll love the Mini Sportster. The Formosa, which is great for what it is, isn't nearly in the same class. Flat foamies are inexpensive, so you could do both. You never mentioned you were leaning toward 3D flying.:)

[Eggvoel]

Couldn't help but laugh, I'm going to try that. thanks. Larry

[Twmaster]

I'm in the middle of building an E-Starter and I have a question about the wing securement. It has what looks like a pair of through holes for dowels to hold the wings on with rubber bands. It also has the plastic pin and bolt setup like found on other GWS birds. I never like the darn bolt method GWS uses and am thinking about going the rubber band route. Is there any good reason not to secure the wing this way?

Thanks!

[WWI Ace]

Doesn't really matter. I think the dowels are even in the box if you want to use them.

[Twmaster]

Doesn't really matter. I think the dowels are even in the box if you want to use them.

Yep! Found 'em. Good I like the dowels better than that silly weak looking screw mount.

I'm hoping to have the thing ready to fly tomorrow afternoon. If I can just get the darned radio to program.....

Thanks!

[we77we77]

I am about the same place as you, Mike. I like the dowell Idea better too,I hope to have her finished by sunday.

[Twmaster]

I was hoping to have it ready to maiden tomorrow but that is not going to happen and I am not going to push knowing there just isn't enough time. I am painting mine. Blue & white. I may even use some of the stock decals. I've put a pair of fiberglass rods in the bottom of the rear of the fuse to strengthen it. Installed the servos in the fuse and have glued the fuse together. I am just awaiting that slow GWS glue to dry. I'm also not thrilled with the aileron linkage and might put something else in place of that abomination. I'm also going to use some other 'CA' type hinges than the flimsy looking things that came with her.

[we77we77]

I used to GORILLA GLUE for the fuse,Its a little slow on drying, but it looks like it has made a great bond. I also went with ''CA'' hinges, I have used them on balsa planes before and they worked good , so why not try'em on foam

[Twmaster]

I used to GORILLA GLUE for the fuse,Its a little slow on drying, but it looks like it has made a great bond. I also went with ''CA'' hinges, I have used them on balsa planes before and they worked good , so why not try'em on foam

I like the GWS glue. If you understand how it works (and aren't in a hurry) it is just peachy to make stuff stick. And besides you can get a nifty buzz from the fumes! <kidding>!

As for the CA hinges just make sure you use foam safe CA! I'll be using SuperPhatic as I really hate CA glue. :rolleyes:

[we77we77]

Know what you mean on the CA. I've got a little bottle E-FLITE foam compatible CA,I had to give one arm and part of one ear at my LHS for the stuff
but hopefully it will last a few plane builds.

[timocharis]

Mike,

10-4. SuperPhatic is a good choice, though I prefer Formula 560 Canopy Glue for that kind of thing. Almost as slow.

GWS glue has its own zen, but it does work well!


Dave

[Twmaster]

What I like about the SuperPhatic in this application is that it is thin enough to wick in like thin CA where the GWS glue is kinda thick and too clingy. I have a bottle of the 560 canopy glue but have never used it so I have not a clue what it's consistency is.

[WWI Ace]

You guys get those E-Starters together and post some videos!!!

[Twmaster]

I don't have any way to make a video but I sure will have photos to share. :cool:

[we77we77]

How important are the wing struts? I,ve seen some pics of E-STARTERS w/out them. I am going to leave off the LG for now, Where I am going to fly the grass is about 4'' tall so the LG may cause more problems than help.

[Steve]

Well...they're not important unless you put a lot of stress on the wing...like when you crash or perform some crazy life-saving maneuver. After you fold a wing, you'll probably wish you had put them on. Think of them as insurance...If you can afford it....why not?

[WWI Ace]

I used them on mine. They aren't that hard to assemble and your better safe than sorry!! Besides, I think it makes the plane look better. These planes are fun!!! You'll enjoy it.

[Wolfewind]

You would be doing yourself a big favor if you dumped the 400 and went with a 350 C, 9070 prop, and a 2s lipo of about 1500 mah. The plane will fly better at both fast and slow speeds which will make all elements of control and landing much easier. In addition you will get 20 minute flight times instead of 6 minute flight times. The gen 2 2s lipos are really cheap right now and are plenty good enough to use with the 350 brushed motors. With the 350 C you can leave the thrust angle as it is and leave the dihedral alone.

I would use the LG since landings and ROG take offs are important skills for later. Plus, the LG will absorb some crash energy as it rips out of the plane that will protect the fuse.

Cut the ailerons even with the back of the wing and sand them into a "V" shape on the leading edge. The easiest way to stiffen them is to glue a 1/8 dowell to the trailing edge of the aileron. You can also just cover them with clear tape and that will stiffen them up.

[Wolfewind]

Just read you post about 4" grass - in that case no LG. I never folded a wing and I never used the struts. It takes a steep dive then a hard pull out to fold the wing.

Also, use the rubber band wing mount instead of the screw mount at first. The screw mount will rip out and tear up the wing and the fuse on a crash long before the rubber band mount will tear things up.

[Doppelganger]

couldn't delete post. Sorry.

[Eggvoel]

It's not really a trainer. It just flys that well. If you liked the Formosa, you'll love the Mini Sportster. The Formosa, which is great for what it is, isn't nearly in the same class. Flat foamies are inexpensive, so you could do both. You never mentioned you were leaning toward 3D flying.:) I'm not sure if I can the develope the skills for 3D and have a long way to go, but you know how pumped up one can get after watching others and it just looks like so much fun to do stuff with an airplane that doesn't seem possible. I'm on a budget so until I can't glue my Estarter and Formosa back together anymore I'll keep practicing and eventually try getting closer to the ground. Larry

[Doppelganger]

Yup, learning 3D is a major undertaking. Some make it look so easy. But I know they put in a lot of time to get there. http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/160531.asp This link will take you to a very inexpensive foamie Bi-Plane. Only 20.00, and it has a full fuse.:) I'm going to pick up one, and the Wing below it. Both only 20.00. I'm on a budget as well. I just can't pass this up.

Well, they sold out of the above item. Bummer. :-(
Steve

[Eggvoel]

Steve, couldn't link up to hobbypeople so went to their site direct. I saw some Phase3 planes for $30.00. Which models were you looking at?
In Sept. Fly Rc magazine I liked the looks and write-up on the E-flite MiniFuntana. Distant future plane maybe. Larry

[Doppelganger]

Sorry, I should have tested the link. It works now. Problem is, they want to charge me over 30.00 to ship it too Hawaii!:eek: That Mini Funtana seems like a pretty good plane. I opened one of the boxes at my LHS and inspected the plane. Seems very light, and it looks great up close. You'd probably really like that one.

Steve

[we77we77]

Well I am almost ready for paint on my E-STARTER.I just need to install the prop and spinner.Please tell me if this is correct, theres nothing in the GWS instructions about prop installation.This is what I am thinking, run the first nut all the way down the shaft and tight'en,slide the large washer on, glue the second nut into the prop and then screw nut/prop on shaft untill it is tight against the first nut.This is my first GWS plane,just wont to finish it right.Thanks very much,
Mike J

[WWI Ace]

we77we77. Put the 1st nut on the propshaft and run it to the end of the threads. Put the prop on so that the nut shaped indention on the back of it fits over the nut. Put on the big washer and then tighten the second nut tight against the washer to hold the prop on. That will do it!!

[Twmaster]

What I do with GWS props on GWS drives is run the first nut all the way to the end of the threads. Put the prop on so it seats on the nut. Turn the prop gently clock wise to further tighten the nut to -snug-. Then put the washer on the prop and then tighten the next nut down.

Anyways, there are other ways to do this but this is what works for me. I've never had a prop come loose and I fly 4 GWS powered birds with more on the building table.

[Twmaster]

Darn there is an echo in here! Sick minds think alike?

:D

[WWI Ace]

Hey, at least we both gave him the same information!! He's gotta believe us now!!!

[we77we77]

No dout,The hole in the prop is about .43 in smaller then the shaft, I will drill it to the correct size then slide it on.Thanks guys ,you da men

[Twmaster]

It sounds like you have the wrong prop. The shaft on the 400 powered gearboxes is 4MM. Most slow flyer props from GWS are 3MM. My E-Starter came with a 12" HD prop. Forgot which size exactly though.

Edit: I should also add that the slow flyer props are too flexble with higher power sets like the 400 based gearboxes.

[WWI Ace]

Yeah it sounds like something isn't right!! Twmaster is right, double check that prop!!!

[we77we77]

This prop is a EP-1060.Could they have sent the wrong prop with my kit?

[WWI Ace]

we77we77. What motor does your plane have? Is it just a motor, or is there a gearbox too?

[we77we77]

Its a 400 w/D gear, I also checked the shaft its 3MM.

[WWI Ace]

It should fit the shaft then. The backside of the prop should have a hex-shaped hole in it to fit over the first nut that you will put on the prop shaft. Does it have this hole?

[we77we77]

Yes,Its there.I drilled the prop hole to within .002 of the shaft size and the prop slide on fine then.Then I put on the washer and nut.There seems to be no slop.Then I ran the motor, it looked and sounded really good.
You guys think it will be ok?

[WWI Ace]

If you ran the motor and it sounded okay and there is no slop in the prop it's probably fine. If you only drilled .002 out of it maybe it was just flash from the molding process. Sounds like you've got it!!! It's a fun plane and set up correctly it's very easy to fly. Good luck and remember to keep it fun!!! Was glad I could help you a little. Steve.

[we77we77]

Steve and Mike N, Thanks to you both for your help. Its a fun building this plane, as soon as I get some color on her I'll post some pics.Thanks again for all your help,
Mike J

[WWI Ace]

Hey I'm glad I could help. That's what this site is for. We can all help each other and keep up with new stuff and find people with the same interests. I learned on my own and it was very hard sometimes!!! Would really like to see the pictures when your done. Give us a first flight report too!!! Steve.

[we77we77]

Well guys shes finely ready to go.( Not sure Iam ) here are some pics.
I still have a little detail work to do, but for the most part this is it.

[Doppelganger]

She looks great. But, until you cut off those Horner Tips, you'll never experience the plane in all her glory.

Steve

[Twmaster]

Mike I am happy to help. My E-Starter is at a standstill because I am quite unhappy with the way the aileron linkage goes in the wing and the awful looking mess that is how the horizontal stab and rudder mount. Yech. :(

I just need to tell myself it's just an ugly bird and finish building I suppose.

Also I should add I don't think that 1060EP prop is going to do the right thing. Seems too small. It will likely also be too flexible.

Bah.

[WWI Ace]

LOOKS GREAT wE77wE77!!! Take it out and fly it! You can cut the tips off later if you decide to.

[we77we77]

Thanks, guys I have less than 1 hour flying time.I have put some time in this plane , but I have to learn some how.WWI ACE ,thanks for your inspiration.TWmaster, finnish her and fly her you will be Great. Its been a lot of fun learning from you guys. This forum is the best I have ever been on. I hope I can some day help some one as you have help me.A great man once seid '' He who is first will be last,and He who is last shall be frist.Not preache'n just beliven.Thanks, Mike J

[qban_flyer]

Well guys shes finely ready to go.( Not sure Iam ) here are some pics.
I still have a little detail work to do, but for the most part this is it.

That's a mighty fine looking paint job there. I have a clue now as to how mine is going to look like when I paint it, though the base color is going to be pastel yellow.

[we77we77]

Thanks qban flyer, I modeled it after the cessna 182.

[Steve]

Man, you really did a nice job on that eStarter! Great paint job.

Now...the flying part....

Double check your set up. Make sure the ailerons, etc. are moving in the right direction.

Go very easy on the sticks for your first flights. It's easy to stall this plane if you crank too hard on the ailerons.

Give yourself some room and give it a toss...and good luck!

[qban_flyer]

Thanks qban flyer, I modeled it after the cessna 182.

I have dusted (sprayed) the airframe with a very pale (lemony) yellow, water based acrylic paint. I'll use either blue or green and pattern its trim colors after yours. I like what you did, doesn't look anything like an E-Starter!

I hope mine looks half as good as yours.

[we77we77]

Thanks Steve, It was a bit windy here this weekend (10-15mph) , so I will try for next weekend.In the meantime I will check and recheck everything.

[we77we77]

qban flyer, I thank blue and yellow work really good togeather.I was going to use that combo, but I remembered I liked the cessna scheme and went that way.I am sure yours will come out great, Just take your time and have fun with it.

[qban_flyer]

qban flyer, I thank blue and yellow work really good togeather.I was going to use that combo, but I remembered I liked the cessna scheme and went that way.I am sure yours will come out great, Just take your time and have fun with it.

I'll try and do that, and while I am at it I'll replace the power plant with a Himax 2015-4100 geared one spinning a 9X6 APC propeller using a three cell Li-Po pack.

Both the Himax and Li-Pos are waiting to be used on something, I guess the E-Starter is as good a model as any for that combo.

[WWI Ace]

That brushless system should be good in the E-Starter!!! That's the motor and gearbox I'm using in my GP Yak55 EP 3D. Steve.

[qban_flyer]

That brushless system should be good in the E-Starter!!! That's the motor and gearbox I'm using in my GP Yak55 EP 3D. Steve.

I thought about putting it on the GP Yak-55 too, and may still do so when the GP power plant goes south on me.

In the meantime I'll use it on the E-Starter! It should be a hoot to fly with better than 22 oz of thrust available.

[VACaver]

I'm putting the finishing touches on my E-starter today and will hopefully fly it this weekend.

It has been a bit of a struggle, thanks to the poorly written manual and the fact that the prop that came with the kit does not fit on the 400 motor. Drilling the prop out won't work either...the hex opening on the prop is too small for the nut on the shaft.

Oh, well, I'll get it worked out and in the air.

[qban_flyer]

I'm putting the finishing touches on my E-starter today and will hopefully fly it this weekend.

It has been a bit of a struggle, thanks to the poorly written manual and the fact that the prop that came with the kit does not fit on the 400 motor. Drilling the prop out won't work either...the hex opening on the prop is too small for the nut on the shaft.

Oh, well, I'll get it worked out and in the air.

Interesting about the propeller. Mine came with two of the same size. One of them is the flimsy park plyer type. The other one is the one they refer to as DD or HD (can't remember their nomenclature), though there is no mention of two props in the "instructions" or what type they are. And yes, you are correct, they might as well send just the photos alone, their "English" translation is anything but English and totally incomprehensible. I have complained to GWS directly on several instances, beginning back in 2003 when I couldn't even understand their website's "English".

I wouldn't use that flimsy prop on a 400 as it will shatter in a million pieces in a very short time. It was not designed for that use and flexes considerably.

If you have a LHS, call them up and ask them if the have both types of GWS propellers,. If they do, get yourself a couple of the thick, heavier plastic type, those are the DDs.

[Twmaster]

As I said in previous posts the slow flyer GWS props are not meant to be run on the 400 power sets. I don't know if they will blow apart but I do know they are too flimsy and flex a lot. Also, the SF props are intended for gear boxes with a 3MM shaft. All the 400 gearboxes from GWS use a 4MM shaft.

[qban_flyer]

Twmaster has it right. The flexible ones are designed for slow spinning speeds.

One more thing. I just checked my GWS E-Starter kit as well as the PT-17. Both come with two propellers of the same size, one the flimsy one, the other one is the stiffer of the two, its hole for the shaft is larger and the nut indentations seems larger also. :confused: :confused: :confused:

[Armound]

As I said in previous posts the slow flyer GWS props are not meant to be run on the 400 power sets. I don't know if they will blow apart but I do know they are too flimsy and flex a lot. Also, the SF props are intended for gear boxes with a 3MM shaft. All the 400 gearboxes from GWS use a 4MM shaft.

Hello Mike N. , Hope i am doing this correct, I see that your on line. What manufacture do you suggest for the SS. The SS I have shows a EP-1060 which I know what it means. Open for suggestion. The motor marking show 400 and the shaft is 4mm. And also agree with qbanflyer about the instruction manual. Had the same problems. So lets see what happen when I submit this reply. Armound:)

[VACaver]

After much trial and tribulation, I have finally finished my E-Starter. All that's left to do is balance it and go fly!

[qban_flyer]

After much trial and tribulation, I have finally finished my E-Starter. All that's left to do is balance it and go fly!

That's a mighty fine looking L-19 E-Starter you have there, VACaver! Good show.

[VACaver]

Thanks...it was a lot of work.

[qban_flyer]

Thanks...it was a lot of work.

Pretty obvious it was a labor of love. Especially looking at the windows, windshield and landing gear struts.

[VACaver]

While it was a great idea to cover my E-Starter with Ultracoat to add some strength, the added weight is killing me.

Oh, and so was doing the ailerons and elevator out of balsa...

The foam ailerons and elevator were twisted and warped when I cut them from the wings / horizontal stabilizer. No big deal...make some out of balsa. Big mistake.

Even after drilling out holes in the elevator to make it lighter, it still weighed at least twice as much as the foam one.

Getting the plane to balance on the marked CG, it took 1.5 ounces of lead in the nose. Wow.

First flight showed how tail heavy and underpowered it was when the thing wallowed through the sky. It took almost full nose-down trim to keep from stalling. Flight time? About 45 seconds...just long enough for me to set it down before it crashed.

First flight today was a repeat of yesterday...with one exception. Basically uncontrollable, the plane started heading toward our cars. Rather than hit 'em, I nosed it over and planted it. The landing gear ripped off, but maybe it was a blessing in disguise.

Leaving the gear off, I adjusted the elevator to about 10 degrees down with the trim set at zero. Oh, and I also had to add a bit of weight on the nose to get it to balance (two quarters, two dimes, one nickel, and two pennies):)

Anyway, it flew pretty good from then on. I'm hoping that once I get the speed controller for my 400 motor, I can pull most of the weight and the performance will increase.

On the other hand, if I crash it with all that change taped to the nose, all I have to do it throw in 50 more cents and go buy a beer:D

[Steve]

Sorry you had so many probs with your e-Starter. I'm convinced that the only way to fly that critter stock, is to build it stock....and that means, you better not crash! A bit of a dilemma for most of us :o

I built mine stock with some reinforcement using .5oz fiberglass in the tail section and on the wings. I also used balsa ailerons. I didn't paint it. Flew like a dog with the 350 motor. Eventually I put a brushless Himax on it and stuffed a 3cell lipo in it, but by then it had so much epoxy on it I was calling it Funkenstein:eek: I built a Beaver after that...not having learned my lesson and painted it kind of like you did. What a brick! I even purchased a new wing for it, and still was a terrible flyer. In retrospect, I think it was still quite tail heavy even though it appeared the cg was correct.

I eventually retired the plane and built a Mountain Models Switchback which is still flying. Balsa planes fly so much better, I don't think I'll ever go back to foam.

I'm not real fond of foamies at this point. I guess they served their purpose though....they allowed me to teach myself to fly.

Although I do have my eye on one of those little $19 Cox warbirds

:eek:

[trewheeler]

I have a lot of faith in the GWS product, especially after so many flights and modifications with my SlowStick - what a great way to get into this hobby! I got the E-Starter to bridge the gap from the SS to a GWS ME109 that has been sitting there built and ready to go for several months now. Well, the E-Starter is just another geat plane from GWS - entertaining to build, easy to modify, nice to paint, great to fly.

I built it with a 2410-08Y brushless, 15amp tower-pro ESC, three of the smallest servos I could find and I power it with an 850mah / 11.1v 12c Magnum LiPo spinning an E-Flite 9 x 4.7 prop. It will climb almost vertically and keep me entertained for over 10-minutes.

Now I want to increase the battery size so I an fly longer. Trouble is, the 850mah is about all I can fit in the battery compartment. Sure, I don't mind cutting it out a little, or even velcro'ing a larger battery under the wing. What I don't want is to overload the plane and slow it down just so I can fly longer. Can anyone suggest "the perfect lipo" for this combination?

Thanks,

Tim

[trewheeler]

.

[WWI Ace]

My Thunder Power 1320mah 3 cell fits in the original compartment. Steve.

[trewheeler]

Is that with the hatch installed? They sound like some serious batteries - I guess that's why they're $54! How long are your flights with this?

Thanks,

Tim

[Slowdoc]

Tim:
It sounds like you have a good match. The 8Y motor needs 11.1v and you should be getting close to 98w with 8.5 amp which is all E-starter should hope for.