View Full Version : glue
pappy60
12-15-2006, 12:12 AM
Well hi I didnt know where to ask this question so I will try here . Has any one used sig-ment model airplane cement instead of ca. I havnt built anything for a while,gettn started on Miss stik jr.I use to use this glue a lot but im not sure how long it lasts on the plane or wood parts. I just was wondering if anyone has used this now or in the past..thank you pappy..ps I didnt know this section was here.I have always liked the old timers .Ihave some plans and have had a BEn buckle quaker flash kit for several years but never have built it. Just wanted to know about the glue plzzzz thank you Pappy
Sky Sharkster
12-15-2006, 03:22 AM
Hello Pappy, Welcome to Wattflyer! I haven't used Sig-ment but if it's a cellulose-based glue like the old Ambroid or Testors wood glue, it should be fine for general building. I use CA for small joints in place of pins, since it drys so fast, but my normal adhesive for balsa and plywood is TiteBond, it's an aliphatic resin adhesive that's sold in most hardware and "Home Builders" stores as well as many hobby shops. Sig sells the same stuff, it's called Sig-Bond. The only real drawback is the slow drying time, like overnight. It's great for all woods, laminating, etc. It's also used to adhere sheet balsa to foam wing cores and will glue foam-to-foam.
For high-stress joints like motor mounts, landing gear mounts, I use epoxy (1/2 hour cure formula) but it's heavy and doesn't evaporate so it must be applied sparingly.
Good luck with the builds, hope you get the Miss Stick flying soon!
Ron
P.S. Checked one of the links on the "Builder's Tips" Sticky, they list Sigment under "cellulose-based glues" and have suggestions for use;
http://airfieldmodels.com/information_source/construction_materials_for_model_building/adhesives.htm#cellulose_glue
Cecil M Wethy
12-15-2006, 03:44 PM
Most of the old cements are either gone or hard to find, but
Duco Cement is good except where you need epoxy. It can
be found at Walmart , most craft stores or hardware stores.
It is cellulose base and for light indoor models can be thinned
with acetone. Cecil
pappy60
12-15-2006, 10:48 PM
Thanks you so very much Cecil and sky this really helps and thank you for the builders tips i will use that alot.I have forgotten a few things since I did this a few years ago.Its good to be back and things have improved a lot since then. Pappy
Tailspin Ken
12-17-2006, 05:04 PM
Pappy,
My friend just built a Slomowatt using mostly Elmer's Carpenters glue. Slow drying, but he said it did a good job.
Ken
TLyttle
12-18-2006, 03:33 AM
Yup, been using aliphatic/carpenter's/Titebond for many years now, and I would never go back to cellulose: better grab, flexible, and tough. Preglue with these products, and it is tougher yet. Best, NO SMELL! CA has its place, but again I haven't had the need for that kind of speed for years, and I breathe better since I stopped.
Diff'rent strokes...
Newboldb
12-19-2006, 09:34 PM
I find urethane bond to be very good it has very good adhesive properties
and is flexible when set and slow drying (hardens more with age) this can
be a good thing as there is always some give in the joint, it cannot be noticed with tight set joints (next to no clearance) but it is there nonetheless and will not shatter on in pact.
Seasons Greetings to all Roger. :)
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