View Full Version : fox lite Husky
01-16-2007, 12:38 AM
I have googled my butt off looking for one, any body know where I can get my hands on a kit?
01-16-2007, 01:24 AM
Tcraft, try here: http://www.foxlitemodels.com/
As it was designed by Dave Blum, it should be a great flier. I've built several of Dave's planes, and have never been disappointed.
01-16-2007, 12:43 PM
Followed the link, that's a nice looking airplane, and a lot more scale in apprearance than my Goldberg Husky 400. Although I love flying my Husky, I may have to think about ordering the foxlite for my fleet.:)
01-16-2007, 01:14 PM
Dave Blum designs beautiful, light weight models. The Husky, if I remember correctly, won the "Best of Show" award at the 2005 SEFF.
01-20-2007, 08:16 PM
Radical Rc used to have them for sale. I think it was around $90 for the kit with the floats. i attached a pic of Dave's first Husky. It does not have ailerons like the kit does.
01-20-2007, 09:41 PM
Since I don't have any water nearby to launch from, I wonder how hard it would be to rig up wheel type landing gear that would look as scale as the rest of the plane. If I can figure out how to do that, I'll get one.
01-20-2007, 10:46 PM
I've got one for sale....check your PM!!!
01-21-2007, 01:55 AM
The kit has instructions on how to set it up on wheels, or you could just hand launch it and land on grass.
01-27-2007, 12:16 AM
I don't think a Husky would look right without some kind of underpennage. It should have either wheels, skis, or floats.
It should be much easier to rig it with wheels than with the floats.
01-29-2007, 12:20 PM
I bought a kit from RadicalRC (wife did for Christmas), directions are not complete! Too much left for the imagination. Has anyone complete directions?
I have stumbled up to the cowl stage, still don't have a clue on how everything goes together.
Any help would be much appreciated!
01-30-2007, 06:58 PM
I'm in the float contruction stage of this model. I agree that the plans leave much to the imagination. The plans that came with mine are black and white photo copies. The first thing I did was go to the Foxlite website and printed the plans from there. They are the same plans but the pictures are much better and are in color.
I also used the phone number from that website to call with questions on things I just couldn't figure. The gentleman I spoke with there was very congenial and helpful.
The best advise I can give you is to study the color photos very carefully. I constructed more then one step only to realize to late it was not correct and had to tear it apart.
02-04-2007, 01:20 AM
Well I'm up to the cowl, and there she sits! I did quite a few mods and even came up with Nav and landing lights while waiting for further instruction. I have called and emailed only a response, Oh I didn’t know you were having problems!
How did you make out with the battery and case? I had one that was about 34mm and of course it doesn’t fit, so I undertook re-fitting the fuse and making a box that would fit the LiPo! I also beefed up the tail with heaver wood as I figured that even if we knew what the CG was it would be nose heavy.
Are you attempting the ailerons? Could have been doublers here. Covering will be very difficult not really enough space between joints should be a credit card thickness at back and on each side.
Well here I sit, lots of parts left over, guess I’ll start my Super Cub and see how that turns out. Do you have any hints how everything is connected? Struts, floats, wings to struts etc.
02-04-2007, 01:36 AM
Woops, here are th left overs!
02-04-2007, 03:19 AM
I've got about the same parts left over that you do. The piece about 1/2" wide and 2" long with the holes in it is glued to the top of the cabin, two of the earth magnets inserted in the holes to match up with the two magnets on the trailing edge of the wing.
I used the plywood subfin to make brackets for the aileron servos. The ailerons are attached to the wing with hinge tape on the top surface of the wing.
I carved a block of balsa to fit it the bottom of the fuselage at the tail for two reasons. One, I installed a tail wheel and two, to make it easer to cover. I bent a wire the same as the one that came for the floats so I can fly it on wheels.
Dave told me the CG is at the wing spar.
The two cell Li-Po battery I purchased from RadicalRC fits fine in the battery box.
I am confused on the mounting of the floats and the spacers that go between them. I am going to call again and willl let you know what I find out.
I think it is going to be a great flying airplane. I agree it seems very fragile, but I also think it will be a docile flyer.
02-04-2007, 09:16 AM
Doug apparently had a family medical emergency on Friday, he did send me an email.
I was going to embed a wheel collar in the float center, that way I could "release" the float and allow for wheels, may be a little overkill and a bit heavy but... As far as spacing goes, I imagine that some of the left overs would apply.
I did ask about the batteries when I started and there was no mention of them having any, so I did the next best thing and used what I had! This electric thing is/was new to me so I had to educate myself real fast, now a 3s and motor thrust, prop sizing behind me. What I chose may not be 100% right but I’ll guarantee it will get off the ground and fly if not it will tear the covering off it!
I also set up for tail dragging for both wheels and skis, of course this year very little snow here.
Where abouts are you?
Keep the info flying we might/will get this done!
PS: This may help with the wheels!
02-04-2007, 09:39 AM
The wheel wire form is 30mm shorter than the float form plus the float form has a 17mm fwd offset so this may be a challenge! May have to either or unless there are other options!?
02-04-2007, 05:34 PM
I bent the wheel wire the same as the float wire. bought some small foam tires with plastic spoke wheels. Looks good to me and gives plenty of prop clearance and it has less tendency to want to stand on its nose.
How did you mount the floats to the provided wires? I drill the holes marked on the floats but can't decide if they are for the spreader wires or the rigging wires.
We live in Minnesota but travel during the winter. I have been building this plane on picnic table around the SW. We are in Tucson AZ at this time.
02-04-2007, 10:18 PM
Nope haven’t figured out the float wires yet, haven’t even figured out the wing struts either. I sent you the questions I have for Doug Via email (Wattflyer style as I don’t know yours) have you gotten them yet? I am calling him Monday at 9AM. Hope to answers to yours and my questions...
02-05-2007, 12:48 AM
Yes, I got your email. I also send one to you. Ask him about the float spreaders and the mounting wires.
02-05-2007, 02:42 PM
I did hear from Doug. I am going to try to put it all together ASAP and post it.
He assures me that he will be putting the additional info up on his site soon so we can see first hand exactly what we are missing and what to do!
02-05-2007, 03:38 PM
02-05-2007, 03:39 PM
INFO as I hopefully have digested, so far!
Fin on bottom just attaches after covering with Goop.
Small hole in tail is used to align the fuse pieces.
*** If you are experienced in covering light balsa to assemble first and then cover, use lite material such as Nelson Lite! Any heaver covering add the wing gussets!
The short carbon rod goes between the elevator halves and is glued in place once it is aligned, make sure it is square! Cover prior to assembly onto the fuse! Make sure it is square with the fuse and wing prior to gluing!
Cover and square the rudder with the above prior to gluing!
*** Wing assembly;
Still a little sketchy on this yet, wing struts basically are for looks and not really for support. He mentioned making a loop and hook assembly to attach, awaiting more info on this!
*** Floats; Spreader attachment Info is coming!
The carbon rods are used as spreaders!
From what I can see on the box, the spreader being the same length as the wire form goes in front former, and is inserted in a small hole you would make. I believe the rear spreader would go behind the rear wireform attachment
Attachments, still trying to digest the info, have to find time to try. The metal forms fit at the rear of the 3rd former, are the slots. Doug said might be a good idea to add a balsa block here for better stability. Keep in mind if you want to convert to wheels! Glue or no glue?!?!
Tack, try and trim! Try not to use much glue as it may make the plastic sag. Use a piece of cutoff material to practice on first!
A GWS spinner will fit into the clear piece. Use Goop to attach into the clear piece. Paint lightly with Rustolium Chrome spray.
More as it comes in!
02-09-2007, 11:22 AM
The next problem I have run into is the tolerances! They are too tight!
In setting up for the elevator, I found that when the pieces were in place there was no allowance for the hinges or the covering without shedding some of the balsa. (There should be at least 1mm on each side and at hinge area.) I took balsa from the elevator itself, added gussets to the inside of the stab and rounded the edges to make more uniform.
02-09-2007, 11:29 AM
Determining I wanted to be able to convert the Floats to wheels I came up with this.
By hollowing out space at the rear entry area for the float gear I managed to install a wheel collar, and built a housing around it.
Access to the allen set screw is gained from the wing area. A special long handled tool was made by cutting the angle off the allen and drilling a small hole into a piece of 1/4th inch dowel and gluing.
02-09-2007, 10:14 PM
Here is the latest info I have received from Doug Hoy, plus my endeavors in a temporary attachment for the rear float wire at the fuse.
Don't have a dimension on the wing strut length but if we have gone this far, I think we can figure it out!
02-10-2007, 12:29 AM
Drilling began; I set up my small square on the table of my drill press, set the float on a piece of cloth and carefully drilled top wire holes to a depth of an inch and 1/4. The spreader holes were drilled to the same depth and 5mm below. The rods were marked at one inch points and inserted. I found that I had to cut the fuse end of the wire off by 5/8’s of an inch to allow enough leeway to insert into the fuse and collars, Success! They will be locked into place and it will allow me to switch to a wheel system. Final gluing is saved for the covering stage.
02-10-2007, 10:38 AM
Here is the Wing Strut sheet
02-17-2007, 12:45 AM
There is a detailed build thread on this model over on E-Zone:
02-17-2007, 09:41 PM
03-14-2007, 11:27 PM
Been test flying my Foxlite Husky in the AZ desert. I didn't take the time to finish the struts, do any trim work, or worry about the floats right now. I just wanted to see it fly. First flight was on a day when the wind was between 5 and 7 mph. Weighting in at 11 oz. it acts somewhat like a kite in the wind and I was gad to get it back on the ground. After a little trim adjustment and waiting for the evening when the wind died down, I made the second flight. Did several takeoffs and landing and got about 20 minutes out of the 2 cell LiPo battery. Jumps off the ground and seems to land the best under some power.
All though I've only made two flights, my first thought about the floats is it's going to take a very still day.
Brushless motor on a gear drive, 8x6 prop.
03-15-2007, 10:29 AM
Nice looking very sleek! Not at all bad for picnic bench work!
What did you use for the clear covering material? I know there is a clear covering out there but I can’t justify buying a whole roll. I have saved several thin clear plastic box windows with thoughts. Works good for the sides and top, just finding it a little tough around the landing lite area.
I built mine without ailerons (subs are in place maybe someday) thought it might be a bit twitchy. I opted for NAV lights, strobe and landing lights. I have all of the electronics together and tested at least they are lying next to the plane, about ready to set them in. Covering is next. Floats are built and covered, wheels and skis are ready.
Have you attempter to add the “Chrome” spinner to the prop?
Must be nice to be in a fairly dry area, we have snow and more is on the way. That would be nice except that rain, sleet and wind is being thrown into the mix…
I haven’t weighed mine yet I figure that I may have to throw in my Power 25 to get it off the ground along with a trailer to tow the battery! LOL!!!
I’m going to try a GWS in-runner with a 9/47 prop first, if that doesn’t work I’ll move up the ladder to a Waypoint with a little more Umpf.
Here at least are my floats complete.
03-15-2007, 10:54 AM
Good thing I looked at the picture! Woops! Here is the finished floats now...:D
03-16-2007, 07:42 PM
I did not put windows in it. Just the windshield that came with the kit.
The plastic spinner that came with the kit is larger than the rubber spinner that came with the motor. To excited to go flying so have given no though to the crome spinner.
Went out again this morning. It is a little "Twitchy" in the wind. Lots a aileron to start a turn. I'm thinking maybe some aileron rubber mix. But, the most trouble I have is getting it back on the ground. Have decided to try some exponential control in the elevator hoping that will help.
03-17-2007, 01:32 AM
Doug from FoxLite said to just use Goop down in the clear spinner cover provided. I would "Assume" that when you carefully cutout for the prop it should stay in place if you place a little Goop around the prop. I will see when I get there. Starting to cover tomorrow, have to devote three hours on our new snowfall, can't even use my skis on the plane, it would just burrow! HA!
03-17-2007, 06:09 PM
How did you cut the windshield?
Did you cutout the "shaded" areas or did you leave and glue them to the frame?
04-11-2007, 11:58 AM
Husky Build Update
All that remains to be done is to add the designation numbers, AMA sticker, charge the battery, final balance and wind up the prop!
Final float plane build weight is; 354g or 12.5 oz.
Covering; Solarfilm Lite, Silver and Blue with Orange pinstripes. (2007 color), acrylic mixture to match the silver and blue for cowl and touch-up. Spray chrome for spinner.
Servos; 2 X SG-50 5.4g,. I opted to stick with elevator and rudder controls only.
RX; Corona RS610
Motor; GWS 2208-18T
Props that can be used are; EP-8043 or 9047 will try the 8043 (16.25oz thrust) with the wheel set, 9047 (18.87oz thrust) with the floats.
ESC; Welgard 18A
Battery; Lipo 3s 20c 1350mAh, could shave off 30 to 40 grams with a 15c simulated to 20c 850 or 950mAh.
I did not like the idea of continuously sticking a pin into the fuse for strut installation/removal. I added .032 pushrod housing to fuse location and glued into the strut bottom a piece of .032 wire. ***MAKE NOTE OF WHERE THE HOLES SHOULD BE! When you have it covered, they are difficult to find…
In reviewing the strut attachment to the wing I also did not care too much for the “Z” bend going thru the covering to find the hole to attach to. A shaped piece of balsa with a small drilled hole was dropped down thru the “Z” bend hole and glued into place. At the top of the strut I formed a ½ box arrangement of .032 wire and glued into the tops, along with the small offset, you can spread the struts apart slightly and pop them into the holes.
At the same time in looking at the real Husky, there are strut braces along with tail braces. For these .015-.020 wire was used. Small attachments on the wing were also formed from balsa. The strut wires are removable from the wing attachments themselves. The tail wires were “Gooped” along with the strut brace mount attachments.
An Aux PCB was designed for electronic controls was built for, NAV LED’s, red, green and bottom strobe along with a control circuit for landing LED’s.
I have been asked to do a review of the option I came up with to make the plane convertible from floats to wheels/skis. First of all I did not glue the wireforms to the plane itself. The front wire that runs thru the battery compartment is attached by cutting two small nylon cable clamps and screwing them tightly against the wire to the “roof” of the battery compartment. The rear float wires (rear plane attachment points) were cut to ***approximately ½”, you will have to spread the rear wires carefully apart to fit into position and into the mounting holes. Make note how far they slide into the plane and how far they spread apart comfortably! Measure, from the fuse outside to the end of the wire. It will be at this point you will add wheel collars. You will have to gouge out balsa and add balsa to hold it in place. The collar outside should be roughed up to accept glue. *** Make sure you do not get any glue clinging to the threads of the allen’s! Position the allen so you can reach it thru the wing mounting area (I did not want to compromise the covering any more than necessary, you could make the collars accessible from the bottom.). Once the correct location has been found, use either slo-CA or epoxy to adhere the collars. I made a long handle from a small dowel and glued a cutoff Allen wrench into it, 6” or so.
When you want to switch to wheels or skis, simply loosen the wheel collar allen’s, spread the wires carefully apart and out of the fuse. Flip on to its top, remove the clamps and slip the wire form out. For the wheels simply slip in the wire form and screw the clamps down.
I believe I will have to work on the floats and re-construct the front wire (shorten).
Hopefully, soon what is left of the snow patches, ice skim on the ponds and mud will dry up, I’ll test the ship and whatever happens, I’ll post.
07-08-2010, 07:53 PM
I am having trouble with step L. Cant seem to find the parts to complete this step. Hard to tell with parts from pictures and cant seems to find ones that look right for the job. A sheets number is a lot to ask but sure would help.
07-08-2010, 11:16 PM
Please jog my memory about "L", my planes are in storage at the moment.
07-09-2010, 03:12 PM
Thank you for replying. Step L is the installation of the top and bottom longerons. I just cant seem to find the right pieces. I have moved on to the other parts of the plane, if all else fail the left over parts must be the ones I cant find.
07-10-2010, 09:05 AM
I'll through my paperwork and see what I can come up with, it may be late this afternoon.
07-12-2010, 09:21 AM
Fortunately I remember what I did. When setting up the ribs I shaved down the spars enough to fit a piece of carbon fiber over top and to the level of the rib. The CF only extended 2/3rds of the way from the fuse. I did this top and bottom! For the shear webbing I used thin/lite ply in the first four bays on the front side balsa rear, from there I used the existing balsa both sides. Keep in mind to run the grain length ways!
Several other items, being a magnet skeptic, I beefed up the battery holder and found larger magnets. I also did the same for the wing. I figured with one rough landing, battery would drop out and the wing with a heavy updraft would pop off! To see what I mean build a temporary battery box with an offset of say an inch, install the battery and just drop the case, there is a shearing (sliding) effect and the battery box loosens and there you have it.
Of course then there is the thought, "Build it and you will fly!"
07-12-2010, 05:54 PM
Thank you for the information. I like the carbon fiber idea. Should add a lot of strength without much if any weight.
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