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meegosh
10-02-2005, 06:24 AM
I'm not only new to electric but new to the whole flight thing. I have been ground based for over 5 years racing electric trucks and I have decided to go for the sky! I was just wondering if you guys had some good sites with really good newbie info... I want electric so it will be quiet and safe. I don't know where I can fly this thing, ie. are there any regulations I should know about? Basically need some websites with good information regarding the hobby. I also would like some recommendations on a good beginner plane but one that I will always want to fly and won't get sick of. Of course I want to be able to do loops and all that fun stuff but mainly want a sturdy plane.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

-Steve

Don Sims
10-02-2005, 01:08 PM
Steve, Welcome to the site!!! Check with your local park department about regulations before flying at a park. Some folks use the old rather be forgiven than ask routine and fly until they get kicked off the park. If it's not your land, be sure to ask the land owners around you. Another option is to join the AMA and fly at a sanctioned field. As you probably know from the truck gear, if you can afford one, get a mid range radio. One that allows for mixing and has at least six channels. I use a Tracker II, it's ugly, doesn't do super advanced mixing, but meets my needs totally and I can use it on any channel. There are other great radios out there by JR, Hitec, and Airtronics if you don't like the Tracker. Your next thing to focus on is a charger. Look for one you can charge lithium batteries safely with. I use NICAD, NIMH, and Lith batteries so I picked up a Triton charger from Tower Hobbies. It's been a great one for several years now. Like the radios, there are several great chargers out there made by other companies. Finally there is de plane, de plane. If you are going to teach yourself, I'd recommend that you pick up one made out of EPP foam for larger flying areas, the Push-E-Cat has taught a lot of people to fly and it's still in production. Multiplex makes some stout beginner planes out of foam as well as several other manufacturers. There are a lot of beginner planes out there so be sure to research the planes at RC Universe or RC Groups before making the purchase. If you want to go the cheap route, get a Firebird or one of it's clones, some extra wings, clear packing tape and go fly. The Firebird comes with a cheapo radio that works well enough but you can't use it in other planes.

Sky Sharkster
10-02-2005, 01:17 PM
To Meegosh, welcome to E-Flying! A couple of sites you could check are; < www.modelaircraft.org> (Academy of Model Aeronautics, if you live in the US) and < www.hobby-lobby.com> click on "Beginners".
Regulations, since you've raced R/C trucks, you understand radio frequencies. Bear in mind the 72 Mhz band is a powerful signal and can shoot down anyone on the same channel for great distances. The AMA stipulates there must be AT LEAST 3 miles between active club flying sites. If you are anywhere within that distance to a club field you will be in danger of crashing their plane and they can interfere with your signal also. If you're flying alone it's up to you to find out how close you are to a site. The club doesn't know you're there.
Why not go out to a local field and look around? Don't be shy about asking questions...you may find (if it's a glow-powered club) the electric flyers are not as well accepted but they're there. The glow guys may even try to steer you to IC but make up your own mind. When you talk to the electric flyers, ask about local suppliers, on-line vendors, other groups that support electric flying. There may be an all-electric club or group nearby.
Starter outfits: I would not recommend any of the 27 Mhz "Entry- Level" or "All-In-One" packages, the most cost-effective way to get flying is to buy a good ( $ 125.00 to $150.00) FM Dual-conversion radio like the Hitec "Laser" or Futaba " 4YF" or similar 4-channel radio. Try to get the package that has a dual-conversion RX, micro servos and TX nicads with built-in charger.
Planes: The GWS "Slow Stick" or "E-Starter" will get you started at a reasonable price and are sturdy enough to withstand a few hard landings. They will do simple aerobatics like loops and both can be up-graded easily to brushless motors and LiPo batteries.
Last, my suggestion would be to get some sound in-person advice from flyers who are already into electric. This may mean a few trips to flying sites or hobby shops but will save you time and money in the long run. Don't buy "bargain" priced components, you get what you pay for. There are a few "deals" out there for electric components but make sure you SEE them work before you spend your hard-earned cash. Hope some of this helps, this Forum is a great resource for you, if you get stuck lots of experienced people will be glad to help! Good luck! Ron

hoppy
10-02-2005, 02:08 PM
Hi Steve, welcome to the I can fly anywhere club.

The best bet, IMO, is to find a local buddy to help you. There is so much to learn and so many questions to ask that a local would be of great help. Do you know anybody that flies electrics? Have you seen anyone locally flying electrics? Try talking to them (after they have landed). Most electric flyers in my experience would only be too happy to share their knowledge with you.
The easiest (and cheapest/fastest) way to learn to fly in my experience is with a buddy box and an experienced pilot to set the plane up for you and save you from any crashes. Not to say that you can't learn by yourself, but I've found it to be one heck of a lot faster with a student on a buddy box. Where are you located?

The suggestions from Don and Ron above are good and you can't go wrong with the planes Ron mentioned.

In regards to your statement "but one that I will always want to fly and won't get sick of", I haven't found that plane yet.:) Your first plane should be a durable, crash resistant, stable trainer that can take a licking and keep on ticking. After that phase, you'll probably want a plane with more aerobatic capabilities. Many very nice aerobatic planes can be home built from foam for not a lot of money. When you're ready for that step, come on back for some suggestions.

One problem with school yard flying is frequency control. If there are any other flyers you just got to go up and ask each one what frequency they are on..... after a couple of meetings you soon learn what channels they are on and when it's safe for you to power up.

Good luck,

meegosh
10-02-2005, 06:58 PM
Thanks for all the replies guys! I am currently looking for some clubs in Western Pennsylvania for electrics. Most of you picked up that I already know about radio frequencies and the like. As far as a flying area, there is a huge corn field behind my house and I'm sure one trip to the gentleman's house and he will gladly let me fly above his farm. He has already let me ride my quads through his fields in the winter (with permission of course). I just have to find out if there are any locals that fly so I do not make their planes nose dive or mine for that matter. As far as seeing people flying, I have never seen anyone flying a rc plane EVER. I will google some bit more and try to find a club. I am of course looking for a cheap starter plane, I dropped way to much into my losi's and don't want to do that again. Is it possible to use any of my electric truck stuff in this plane? I am really just wanting a whole kit to come together assembled and ready to fly but I am hearing bad reviews about the equipment that comes with those RTF kits. Thanks agian guys! Sounds like this is a great community to be a part of if your like me and just getting into the hobby!

arizonajoe
10-02-2005, 10:58 PM
GWS has alot easy to fly and easy to repair planes. The tiger moth is a good one, so is the E-starter. The first one will get you airborn and will do loops,it will also help you get alot of landing practice. The E will teach you how to fly with ailerons which you're going to need as you fly more. I hope this helps. JOE

meegosh
10-03-2005, 12:41 AM
First plane idea here... let me know if I will need anything else other than what I have listed:

LXJEF5 GWS 3D Tiger Moth Yellow Park Flyer EP ARF (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJEF5&P=ML)
LXHHU5 GWS 7-Cell 8.4V 750mAh NiMH JST (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHHU5&P=V)
LXVV43 Great Planes ElectriFly DC Peak Charger (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVV43&P=V)
LXGAE855 4YF MICRO R114F 2 S3108 55 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGAE855&P=V) Comes with two servos
Two of These.. LXFKZ9 Futaba S3108 Servo Micro 7.6g (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFKZ9&P=V)
LXKBF3 Great Planes ElectriFly C-12 Micro Brushed ESC w/BEC (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKBF3&P=9)
Comes to a total of $250.40 + shipping.

Will I need anything else for this... the tx comes with two servos so I am assuming that those will work. The plane needs 4 servo's so two come with radio and two extras that I have listed. Will I need glue, epoxy, wing cover? I want to order this soon so I can start building it! Is this a good plane, can I still do tricks with this with the 350 motor?

Thanks again, you guys are great! Maybe soon I will have pics of my first take off, flight, and successful landing!! :D

Sky Sharkster
10-03-2005, 01:43 AM
To Meegosh, it sounds like your "first plane" package it pretty complete; Although I wouldn't recommend a biplane as a first airplane (the inevitable "unplanned landings" will knock the wings out of alignment and usually break inter-plane struts, hard to fix on the field) if that's the plane you really want, go for it! I still think you'd get more airtime with less repairing on a "Stick" or "E-Starter". The idea of hooking up with someone on a "Buddy-Box" is great, can you find someone? There are also free online flight simulator programs, does anyone on this forum have the site handy?
You will need some epoxy, the GWS glue is pretty hard to work with and very slow. A small batch of 5-minute and 30-minute will be enough, or you can use "foam-safe" CA. The plane will not need to be covered, it comes painted.
You might want to consider a couple of extra battery packs, or at least one: That way you can be flying one while the other charges. I didn't see what kind of connectors are listed. You will know from your truck experience that "Tamaya" plugs are pretty inefficent, lose power over time. For smaller batteries the "Deans Mini" or "JST" plugs are good, as you get more powerful motors the "Deans Ultra" are nearly standard among E-Flyers.
More propellers! There is no such thing as too many props. Also a couple of extra prop shafts would be a good idea, they are soft and bend easily.
Your truck equipment might be used if it's lightweight. Got any mini or micro servos? The receivers would have to be 72Mhz, I think most car + trucks are 27Mhz. You can definitely use the tools, especially (since most of the stuff is Asian) the metrics, like hex or Allen, nut drivers, etc. All your soldering stuff, charger. You have a real advantage there since you understand electric power, you're just switching to planes.
Well, good luck whatever you decide, I'm sure we would all be interested in hearing how you make out! Ron

Don Sims
10-03-2005, 01:57 AM
The Slow Stick is a hoot to fly as is the E-Starter. Have you looked at the Sky Scooter? It comes in a complete package and is fairly durable.

arizonajoe
10-03-2005, 01:56 PM
If you haven't bought package yet look at www.gwsexpert.com (http://www.gwsexpert.com). They have some good deals for just starting out. click on their combo package link. the e-starter 400 complete is only $150. The only thing you'll need is a charger + extra batteries 3-D planes are really hard for beginners to fly with.

meegosh
10-04-2005, 05:23 AM
Well first off I just want to thank everyone with all the helpful input! I cannot believe there is such a good community dedicated strictly to electric flight. I had another question, may be a dumb one (atleast i'll ask it), if I buy a trainer or an easier plane to fly at first, can I transfer a majority of the electronics into a new plane, ie the U-can-do. I really like that plane and seeing that it bends in half I'm sure its pretty durable. I just don't want to be stuck with a bunch of electronics that I cannot use in another plane. If it means spending the extra buck up front for the trainer on good electronics then so be it.

I really just want to be able to expand with the supplies I will purchase initially. I have been considering some of the trainers that you guys have mentioned. Particullarly the E-Starter 400 that arizonajoe mentioned on gwsexpert.com. Is that a good price for everything? Is there anything on there that they are missing? I saw they had two options for Tx/Rx; Futaba compatible, and JR compatible. Does this mean they are Futaba transmitters and receivers? Does that mean I have to purcahse those seperatly?

It looks like if that really is everything I need then I am going to be spending $189 for a complete setup. That is $149 for the combo kit and an additional $40 for the MC-2002 quick charger. Is that a good charger?

Basically need a unanimous thumbs up or down for this combo, as long as any suggestions for additional supplies that I will need to get this combo flying!

Thanks in advance!

meegosh
10-04-2005, 03:27 PM
You guys are gonna get sick of me. I have another question. I think I am pretty set on this E-Starter combo from GWSexpert.com. The battery they include is a GWS NI-MH/9.6V/750mAH/JST/TYPE A. How many cells is it? What can I replace it with? I want LiPo's eventually with brushless esc/motor. The motor and esc will wait. I hear that the NiMh offer ~6 minutes of flight as the LiPos offer more around ~20. Is this correct? I just want to know a good pack that will last a decent bit of time for me to start learning with.

Hopefully I can get everything picked out and then I can go ahead and order it and maybe even get my first flight in by the end of the fall! :D

Sky Sharkster
10-05-2005, 01:30 AM
Hi Steve, no we're not tired of your questions, at least you have the common sense to ask them! Lots of new flyers just buy the lowest price package or the flashiest box and end up disappointed.
NiCad and NiMH cells have a nominal voltage of 1.2 volts per cell. A 6 cell pack will have an output voltage of 6 (cells) X 1.2 (volts per cell) = 7.2 Volts. A 7 cell pack will have 8.4 volts and an 8 cell pack will have 9.6 volts. So the 9.6 volt pack you're looking at is made up of 8 cells which is a pretty powerful pack for the application, I believe they use 7 cells normally. There's nothing really wrong with more cells up to a point, it gives you more power, kinda like a 6 cylinder car motor isn't as powerful as an 8 cylinder, all other things being equal. Now if the voltage is like the number of cylinders in your car, the milli-Amp (mAH) capacity is like the fuel in the tank. More mAH, more duration. An 800 mAH battery cell will run twice as long as a 400 mAH battery, all other things being equal. So why doesn't everyone use 20 cells of 10,000 mAH capacity? Weight. Also 20 cells would put out 24 volts which would cook most motors faster than you could turn the throttle off. So there's limits, and your 9.6 is near the upper limit of voltage the normal brushed motor will handle. As for mAH count, the higher the count, the heavier the cell. A 600 to 800 mAH cell is about right for your application, if you went to 1500, 2000 mAH, they would weigh 2 ounces PER CELL and your 8 cell pack would weigh a pound, instead of 5 or 6 ounces, and the plane likely wouldn't fly. Depending on throttle use, you can expect anywhere from 4 to 7 minutes from the pack you described. If you just climb slowly once and cut the throttle to very low "Cruising" power for the rest of the flight you might eek out 8-9 minutes but most of us like a little more excitement.
If you plan to upgrade to LiPos, I would suggest the "Trition" charger, it will do NiCad, NiMH and Lipos which will save you from buying another "LiPO" charger down the road. Whatever you get, make dure it's "Peak Detecting" and goes from 4 to at least 8 NiCad/NiMH and up to 3 LiPo cells. Since you've put this much thought and effort into getting a good package do a little more research on chargers and you'll only have to buy one instead of 2 or 3. Also figure out if you want AC/DC or just DC. Will you be charging at the field? Do you want to charge at home and bring only your plane and batteries out? If you charge at the field you need a power supply like a car battery.
The Lipos will, ounce for ounce, offer more than twice the duration of NiHM or NiCads but with a few words of caution; They MUST be charged correctly on a "LiPO" charger, do not leave them unattended while charging, they must NEVER be over-charged or over-discharged and they cost quite a bit more than conventional batteries. I would suggest a couple of NiMH or NiCad packs to start, then move to Lipos. They have a nominal voltage of 3.7 volts per cell, most "sport" or trainer planes suggest 2 cells (7.4 volts). You can run 3 cells (11.1 volts) on a brushed motor but it will shorten the motor life quite a bit.
So far you've put together a good package, this is vastly increasing your chances of sucess. A couple of extra props, batteries and maybe a prop shaft will allow you to stay out long enough to get some quality "Stick" time and each flight will get easier. Good Luck! Ron

meegosh
10-05-2005, 04:21 AM
It is all making sense, I guess I could've been a little clearer on what I already knew. Everything you said helped me get a better understanding of it. I guess I will have to do some research on chargers for a bit before I go crazy and buy one that will only charge one kind. Like I said I want this to be a trainer plane but not trainer equipment! I hate the poorly designed stock electronics they include with the RTR (as they call it in the truck world) packages, so I assume it is no different with planes.

I am going to do some more research, if you guys find any good sites regarding batteries and charger info/reviews please let me know. Until then I'll be on google :p ! Thanks again, you've been a huge help in getting this package put together Ron!

Don Sims
10-05-2005, 10:55 AM
Steve, the Triton charger is quite versatile. Whatever charger you pick up needs to be able to charge at least the three major chemistry packs or else you'll be buying another charger. If you go totally with liths as many people are now doing, get one or two chargers that can handle at least three cells.

meegosh
10-05-2005, 06:55 PM
I was looking at the Triton but it is only DC and I would prefer AC and DC. Does anyone have any good recommendations for a charger that will charge all three types of batts and run off AC power? My '95 Nissan Maxima is starting to get old and I do not want to kill the battery charging planes off it.

So basically I am stuck and need help with the charger aspect. I am getting paid today so I might end up ordering it tonight that way I will be able to have my first flight in the cool, still, fall air!! I cannot wait! Thanks again to everyone who has helped me with this.

buzzbomber
10-05-2005, 07:39 PM
Meegosh, you might want to re-consider the plane choice. The GWS Tiger Moth is a great trainer, but not the one you have listed in post #7. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHCJ9&P=0 is the link for the GWS Tiger Moth you want. Also, since this plane uses a smaller motor, you will want lighter batteries, like http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGBL6&P=7 or like http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKAP4&P=7 if you feel that you are ready to deal with lithium polymer batteries. Everything else on your list looks usable, though I'd go for the MKII charger you asked about in your other thread.

meegosh
10-05-2005, 08:01 PM
I've heard mixed feelings about biplanes for the first plane. I know I do not want to end up purchasing a new trainer because my first one broke the first time I _tried_ to land. If you care to differ please let me know why you think I should go with the Tiger Moth. Both planes seem fairly decent from my view but I am new to this so I will trust other people's judgment that have years and years of experience over me. Also, I am going with the MKII because I see that it charges LiPos (according to towerhobbies) and the other two types with no problem. Should I get the battery pack that comes with the gwsexpert combo and get a LiPo batt or what? Can I use the two different types with the same ESC and motor that is included with the gwsexpert.com beginners combo?

I really feel bad asking so many questions but this is the only way I can truly find out what to expect from my first plane. I hated buying things for my first R/C truck and then realizing that some of the electronics I ordered are not compatible. Not this time though, I'm hittin the books before I pull my wallet out! Thanks again guys!

buzzbomber
10-05-2005, 08:33 PM
The Tiger Moth is, in fact, slightly harder to assemble and slightly fragile as compared to the Slow Stick. However, it is VERY slow, built stock, and tends to "bounce" in low-energy crashes since it's so light. You could do just as well, if not better by choosing the slow stick(if you do, you'll need a 7.2-to 9.6volt battery capable of handling up to about 10 amps). However, the docile manners and low mass of the moth coupled with its good looks make it the winner in my book. The batteries in the GWS expert combo for the TM are fine, they're what I used on my first TM three years ago, but better technology is available now. Same goes for the batteries in the Slow Stick combo. Once you settle on the plane, THEN worry about what batteries, ESC, and servos. It will be far easier to make all the right choices without getting overwhelmed this way.

meegosh
10-05-2005, 08:46 PM
I am pretty set on the E-Starter combo package from gwsexpert based on it's price and equipment included. This is why I am trying to figure out the battery and charger situation, ie my other thread under batts and chargers. I did like the looks of the tiger moth but I got an overwhelming response not to get it because it was a biplane. If anyone else can tell me differently I will consider the Tiger Moth but the E-Starter seems to be pretty durable from what I have read. I just need to get the basics of flight down so that I can get a foamie so I don't have to worry about crashing it and ruining the plane itself. I understand that electronics can be damaged even in a foamie but I would hope I will not be slamming it into the ground fast enough to cause harm to anything other than the prop/motor.

Can the E-Starter with the given electronics from gwsexpert.com's beginners combo be used with 3cell LiPo's or will I need to upgrade the ESC and motor before I can add lipos? Thanks again!

buzzbomber
10-05-2005, 09:24 PM
Last thought on the subject: if you can find someone locally to help you out, by all means go for the E-starter. If, however, you will be going it alone, go for the Slow stick or the Tiger Moth. The E-starter will be faster and more responsive than the other two, making it less forgiving of mistakes. On the flipside, it gives you more capabilities to grow into. They're all good planes, and you won't gro wrong with any of the selections you've made.

hoppy
10-06-2005, 12:32 AM
Can the E-Starter with the given electronics from gwsexpert.com's beginners combo be used with 3cell LiPo's or will I need to upgrade the ESC and motor before I can add lipos? Thanks again![/quote]

Some thoughts - If you get the bug, you will probably dump that Tx in short order and get one with exponential, etc. such as a Hitec Flash 5 or some other TX with some bells and whistles.

The GWS motor is only suitable for 7-8 cell NiMH/NiCd or 2s Lipo packs. The 3s will burn them out quickly. The ESC will probably have to be changed if you go to LIPO's in order to get the correct LVC. A new ESC will also be needed if you go brushless. I don't know if that GWS ESC is LIPO friendly.

A dilemma isn't it..... if you're really serious get better equipment...if you're not sure, go cheap and sell the stuff if you decide to upgrade.

I noticed that the E-Starter combo pack does not include the MC2002 quick charger. A must in my book as would be some additional flight packs. $$$ I don't think you want to fly for 10 min and then go home and charge overnight. In fact, I don't think it includes a charger.

Something to think about.

meegosh
10-06-2005, 01:02 AM
Yeah I noticed that it did not come with a charger and that is why I have been deciding on which one. The famous Triton is all people are telling me to get but that is almost as much as the combo itself! I am not looking for top of the line racing equipment just a good starter set. I am considering the MKII because it can charge all three types. Now if I am understanding this correctly, it is going to take all night to charge? Maybe you were just saying that to reiterate your point about getting multiple packs. I am going to get atleast three packs to start, one of which is the one that comes in the combo. I know my NiCd batts took a decent bit to charge (35+mins) and those were 6cell 2500 mAH packs. I think I am just going to stick with the stock esc, motor and tx for now. I need to focus on charger and batteries. If anyone could post some links on good batteries that will give me decent flight time and for a good price let me know!

Thanks guys!

Sky Sharkster
10-06-2005, 02:07 AM
Hi Steve, looks like you're getting lots of advice! I don't know the specs on the MK 11 charger but if it's AC/DC, Peak detecting, will do LiPOs, NiMH and NiCads you'll be set for quite a while.
The main component that will have to be upgraded if you go to Lipos is the ESC. The GWS ones (to my knowledge) are NOT adjustable for LVC (low voltage cutoff) and this is a MUST when you fly Lipos. Remember what I was saying about not over-discharging Lipos? LVC is how you do it. Oh, sure, some flyers will tell you that all you have to do is time the flights or figure out when to land before it gets too low but you are literally playing with fire that way. One way around this (if you get the GWS package) is, when you try Lipos, invest in a "Lipo Saver" a gizmo that goes inline between the motor and ESC, reads the voltage and cuts the motor before low voltage occurs. They're about $ 20.00 I think but I can't remember offhand who sells them. They're basically a "retrofit" for speed controllers that don't have LVC. Anyway, I'd say start out with a couple of NIMH's at first, get flying (you'd be suprised how long 8 minutes will seem like when you're trying to not crash!) and when you're ready for longer flights, either get a new LVC-adjustable ESC or a "Lipo Saver".
The reason your truck packs took so long to charge is they were high mAH packs. 800 mAH, even charging at 1 amp, won't take half that long. Smaller gas tank. The Lipos do take awhile but they LAST a lot longer too and they have high mAH counts.
All the other stuff like servos, Receiver, Transmitter, batteries will be usable on your next plane. The (Brushed) motor will be shot after an hour or so of running time but speed 400's are about $ 10.00 so no big deal.
I'd say get the plane YOU want, the MKII charger and a couple of conventional packs, while you're putting it together keep looking for a flying buddy who's into electric. We're EVERYWHERE!!
Battery source; http://flydma.com www.hobby-lobby.com (http://www.hobby-lobby.com) www.thunderpower-batteries.com (http://www.thunderpower-batteries.com)
www.fmadirect.com (http://www.fmadirect.com)
Good Luck! Ron

hoppy
10-06-2005, 04:34 AM
Now if I am understanding this correctly, it is going to take all night to charge? Maybe you were just saying that to reiterate your point about getting multiple packs.
Thanks guys!

No, I assumed that the combo came with a low current wallwart charger that would take 16 hours to charge your bats. The 2002 will charge them in about an hour as will the Triton. The Triton is a good all purpose charger...use one myself. Most of these chargers need a 12V power supply or an automobile battery to power them. More $$$ There is one that is 120V powered and will charge all 3 but I can't remember it right now. Lot of help:(

You might want to consider a larger mah pack. The larger the pack, the less load on the battery and the longer/better it will work. Comes at the expense of weight but that shouldn't be a problem with your plane. Take a look at the 1050 and 1150 NiMH packs here. http://www.cheapbatterypacks.com/main.asp?sid=408924&pgid=packs&pid=AIR

meegosh
10-06-2005, 06:02 AM
Thanks for the link hoppy. I am considering the first pack that is listed on the site that you gave. Item # A6CBP1150FT.. It's called 6 Cell CBP1150 - Flat--With JST. I just want to make sure these will fit, I assume they will.

E-Starter battery pack included in combo:
Size(L X W X H): 82x10.5x51.4(mm) / 3.2x0.41x2.02(in)

That pack I mentioned:


Length: 3.45in. 87.63mm


Width: 1.3in. 33.02mm

Height: 0.65in 16.51mm


Weight: 4.8oz. 136.01gm

I think this will fit, it just seems like it is standing up on end rather than lying down? either that or someone got their Height and Width mixed up.

Thanks again guys for all your help. If you guys see any problems with what I have going let me know. Final plane is GWS E-Starter Beginners combo package with two of those batteries listed above (if they'll work), and a MK11 charger. Hopefully will order it soon and start learning.

hoppy
10-06-2005, 02:16 PM
Steve,
Here is the GWS website. http://www.gws.com.tw/english/product/airfly/estarter.htm

There are 3 E-Starter planes. If you are talking about the E-Starter 400, or E-Starter 300, you will not be happy with anything less than a 8 cell pack. You'll also notice that it is for intermediate pilots. If you just have to have the E-Starter, I'd go with the 300 model.

But, I really think if you are going to learn solo, that the SlowStick is a better choice. Easier to repair and easier to fly.
The SlowStick is recommended for new flyers. It will be a slower and more stable flyer. http://www.gws.com.tw/english/product/airfly/slow%20stick.htm The size of the battery pack is not a problem with the slowstick as it can hang from the stick.

You will notice on the battery site that the batteries can come in a number of different configurations. Choose the one that best fits the plane. I would assume that a Stick pack in a 4x4 in line or 4 over 4 sideways would work or even a flat 8 pack. The 2/3A cells with a speed 300 will give you at least 15 min flights.

Hard to get started isn't it???

meegosh
10-06-2005, 04:17 PM
It's just the slow stick doesn't even look like a plane, rather ugly IMHO. I will take your advice however. I am assuming that I can use all those electronics in another plane, ie purcahse a e-starter kit later and transfer electronics. I think they include the same equipment in the two packages. It's also ten dollars cheaper so I can buy two extra packs. I assume the ones on the site under "Customer who bought this also bought.." are compatible. Can someone give me a link for a more powerful battery that will work with the slowstick 400 combo on gwsexpert.com. I heard a 1150 mAH pack would work. I am not sure though.. thanks again and YES it is hard to get started!!!!!!!:confused:

frvrngn
10-06-2005, 05:00 PM
Steve - if you are still looking for an all in one charger, check out the Wattage Sport Charge-It-All. Around $70 new and is a AC/DC peak charger that will do all 3 types of batts. At least with this you arent stuck with charging just off your car battery or making a 12V power supply for your home. Here is a link - http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/130116.asp

meegosh
10-06-2005, 05:11 PM
Anyone know a site with 5 or so JST connectors in a pack? I will need them in order to hook up with my batts. and just want to make sure I can get them first. Also any recommendations on packs?

hoppy
10-06-2005, 10:45 PM
Steve, ask these guys for a recommendation for a battery pack (if you haven't already:))
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1582

Here's a connector/battery source.
http://aircraft-world.com/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=33&cat=battery+%2D+WIRE+and+CONNECTORS

Duster52
10-07-2005, 07:40 AM
It's just the slow stick doesn't even look like a plane, rather ugly IMHO. :confused:

Maybe so, however, there are MANY Slow Stick lovers out here! It is the one that I fly the most, because I can fly it in the lot at the end of the street! And, I have lots of bigger and faster electrics. I even put a brushless on mine and can climb to 200 feet in seconds! Many experienced fliers still keep one around for lots of easy fun! You can replace the entire plane by buying the slope flyer version (no motor) for $21.00! You will be able to gain a ton of experience with this little plane and, yes, all the electronics can be moved to another plane when you want to do so.:) Don't look down on it too quickly!:D

meegosh
10-07-2005, 05:50 PM
Haha... I know.. I'm sorry I wasn't bashing just comparing it to the looks of the E-starter rather. Regardless I'm going to purchase one here pretty shortly and hopefully get this thing ready to fly before winter. I have been looking at other forums and their mods that they have done to them and I like what I see from the slow stick. I just need to figure the batteries, chargers and props part out. I have a rough idea on the battery because any will do seeing that you just rubberband them on. I just need a charger, and I'm leaning toward the MK11 just based on the numerous positive reviews I've read. I have no idea what to do with props. If some one could post a battery and a good prop replacement for the event that i nose dive that would help me out a lot! Thanks guys for all your feedback!