View Full Version : The Story of a Super Cub
01-26-2007, 05:51 PM
In 2004 I inadvertantly ended up with two Dare 60.75 inch span Piper J-3 Cub kits, designed by Pat Tritle.
I've always liked Super Cubs, and since I couldn't find a kit for one, that looked like it would have the desireable flight charactistics of the Dare J-3, I decided to convert one of the J-3 kits to a Super Cub.
Since this was going to be a "kit-bashing" exercise anyway, I opted to go whole-hog, with rudder, elevator, ailerons, throttle, and flaps. I would also add scale opening doors, and semi-scale access doors on the sides of the cowl.
This was to be a "bush plane", so I ordered some Trexler air wheels in their 3.5 inch size.
Changes from the J-3 kit included the addition of flaps; changing the shape of the rudder; changing the shape of the elevator, and adding "balancers"; re-design of the wing center section to include a larger skylight; re-design of the fuselage forward of the windshield pillars, to change the shape; and of course building a completely different "pressure" cowl, from balsa. This included a hinged access door in each side, which turned out to be a pain to build.
Here are a few pictures of the beginning of the build.
01-26-2007, 05:58 PM
The build went quite well, with some minor issues with parts fit, and breaking the light parts while sanding, especially the wing ribs. To make the ribs a bit sturdier, I added rib caps to the tops.
Here are some more construction pictures.
01-26-2007, 06:03 PM
Being a Cub "fanatic" myself, I'm going to really enjoy watching this thread. Looks great so far!
01-26-2007, 06:07 PM
The Cub was finally ready to fly. All up weight was right at 32 ounces, slightly heavier than hoped for, but still only about 8.5 ounces per Square foot of wing area.
Power was by a Nippy Black 1812/100 motor, driving a GWS 1060 direct drive prop, and running on a Polyquest 3S, 2200 mAh lipo pack. Amp draw was about 16 amps WOT with this setup.
Servos were all HS-55 with one servo mounted in the center of the wing, behind the skylight, driving the flaps through a torque rod and pushrods.
The Super Cub flew well from the beginning.
01-26-2007, 06:13 PM
Ah, it's done then. I thought you were just starting on it. Looks great, but I want to see more of the build too! :D
01-26-2007, 07:19 PM
Hi Gary, as you have probably guessed, I too am a great fan of the Super Cub airplanes, and "bush planes" in general. I haven't mastered heli's yet, and the way my thumbs work, probably never will.
This thread is basically a recap of a long rambling one I did on R/C Groups as I built the Super Cub. It has turned out to be my favorite airplane, so decided to post a thread about it here.
I'll try to dig up some more build pic's, if I can find any decent ones. I was just learning about digicameras in those days, so many of my pic's are poor.
Here are a few more anyway.
01-26-2007, 08:12 PM
I never got any good at flying helis either. If anything I mastered crashing and rebuilding them. I finally gave up and went back to planes but I still have the helis. Maybe someday I'll try it again.
I'm finding I get a lot of enjoyment building planes, almost as much as actually flying them. I'm still working with ARF planes right now but I bought my first kit the other day (Cub of course) and am looking forward to eventually getting into building from plans. I'm hoping to someday be at a level where I can build something like your Cub with all the details.
01-26-2007, 11:32 PM
Once the Super Cub was maidened, I thought I should add some more detail to make it look more realistic. Red accents were added to the sides and top of the nose, the wheels got painted, and an exhaust stack added.
Eventually I decided to try 4.5 inch Trexler tires, in place of the original 3.5 inchers. This Super Cub is 1/7 scale, so these would scale out to equal 31.5 inch Alaska Bushwheels. The fields where the Cub operates are grass or dirt and rather rough, and the "bushwheels" allow it to handle this terrain without problems. They really soak up a lot of bumps on takeoffs and landings. I don't inflate them too much, though or they will cause a collosal bounce on a hard landing!:eek:
01-27-2007, 12:06 AM
The Super Cub was maidened in the early spring and I flew it a lot that first summer, and into the fall. Upon returning from my annual fall hunting trip, snow had covered up my backyard flying field, and also the R/C Club field where I often fly.
I just had to have some skis! I had tried the Du-Bro parkflyer skis on an earlier Hobby Lobby Super Cub, that met it's demise due to a radio failure. Those skis were barely big enough for the much smaller HL Super Cub, so I knew they would not work for this one. I had broken them frequently, whenever the plane hit a snow berm or rut. Not able to find any other suitable skis for this plane, that were not too heavy, or extremely expensive, I decided to build some.
Light ply was used for the flat ski part, with shaped, heavier ply used as center "former" and mount for the skis, (see pic's). Spider Wire fishing line was used as snubbing cables on the skis. During construction of the plane, I had used this material for the tail brace wires and pull-pull cables for the rudder and elevators, as well. A piece of round black elastic cord was used in place of the "bungee" cables to hold the front of the skis up during flight. When finished the skis were painted black and were mounted just like the wheels, except for the cabling.
The skis turned out to work very well. The Super Cub flies even better with them than with wheels. One cold winter morning I was flying at the club field, where there was about 6 inches of old snow on the ground, with just about an inch of new powder on top of that. The weather had cleared in the early morning, and the sky was a very deep clear blue.
Every time I would land, and take off again, there was long white plume of powdery snow behind the skis when the Cub was climbing out steeply against that dazzling blue sky. What a sight to behold, and I had no camera and no one to operate it anyway!
I must have shot at least 50 touch-and-goes, or landings and take offs that morning, in spite of the near zero temperatures, it was so much fun! The air was perfectly calm, which is just what this light weight Super Cub needs. In spite of the cold, it was one of the most enjoyable flying days I can remember!
Enough stroy telling for now, here are some more pictures.
01-27-2007, 05:21 AM
This Super Cub flies much like a real airplane, at least as it's viewed from the ground. I've never flown a nicer flying model. It has even recieved compliments from many of the old "fuel" pilots at the club field where I often fly.
The biggest fly in the ointment, with it's flight, and this is true of any model with a light wing loading, and to a great extent with any Cub, is that it gets to be a hand full when the wind comes up. If the wind is steady and reasonably smooth, it's not too bad, but when things get squirrley and turbulent, I usually just give up and wait for calmer conditions.
Another thing it doesn't like is to be tailheavy. One time I took off with the battery being well strapped down in it's tray, and during the accelleration of the takeoff run, the battery moved back about 8 inches from where it belonged. I immediately knew that something was wrong, but wasn't sure what it was. The Cub was almost unflyable, very unstable in yaw, and trying to stall all of the time. Finally, I got it figured out, and managed to make a successful, though not pretty landing. That time I was lucky!
One time last summer, I wasn't so lucky. Where I fly in my back yard, I have a building to the North and others to the East. I went out one evening for a flight, just before it got dark. There was a slight breeze from the North, but it was so light that I thought nothing of it. I began a normal takeoff run to the West, but the Super Cub didn't want to leave the ground, where normally it is airbourne in 10 to 20 feet. It seemed top be gaining speed normally, but just wouldn't fly. After about a 40 foot run, I horsed it off the ground. It immediately went into a turn to the right, and was also climbing too steeply. I tried to straighten it out, but rudder, ailerons and elevator seemed to have little effect. It continued turning right, and was rapidly running out of room, as the building was right there. I managed to get it turned enough to miss that building, but by that time it was about to hit the other building just behing me. I banked it hard right to miss that building, and it stalled about 10 feet above the ground and spiraled in nose first.
Talk about feeling badly. I could see that the wing was mis-aligned at the center section, and the whole fuselage forward of the rear windows was destroyed. At the time, I didn't know whether I would rebuild it or not.
I'm still not sure what caused the crash. I had been having some issues with the elevator servo not wanting to center properly, and lack of elevator control seemed to be a large part of the problem. I also think the breeze coming over the building to the North had something to do with it. Since the plane didn't want to leave the ground, there was probably a pretty good downdraft coming off the lee side of that building. That would account for the hard right turn as soon as becoming airbourne, and then the reluctance to continue turning right once it had turned 180 degrees and was coming back toward me. Still, everything seemed so innoculous, that I have to believe I was doing something very wrong too.
The Super Cub has had other minor crashes and accidents like getting blown off the pit table at the field, but this was by far the worst!
I brought it inside, and put it aside for a few weeks, but just couldn't keep from trying to repair it. Actually, the damage wasn't as bad as I thought, and it went back together fairly well, although not as straight as before. Amazingly, it still flies as well as before the crash, though.
Here are some pictures, one after the crash, one after repairs, and one up in the blue again.:D
To be continued..............
01-28-2007, 03:51 PM
Great plane, good example of a built-up model of a real plane that "turns you on" and that you have built and modified/upgraded to suit your tastes and local conditions. Pat's designs are so light that you can modify and beef them up (within reason) and they'll still fly scale-like and land slow. People who don't build from balsa and ply kits, short kits, plans or their own designs will never get the same thrill of the successful maiden flight, getting it trimmed out for and flying like the real thing, occasional repairs and hundreds of satisfying flights. I even get a kick out of making extensive repairs and having it look and fly almost as good as new.
01-29-2007, 12:16 AM
Right you are, E-Challenged! This plane has been a great pleasure. When the air is calm, it's pure perfection.
I flew it today at the club field, for close to half an hour.
I like pull-pull systems, and feel that they generally give more precise control, so both the rudder and elevator use this system. The cable I used is Spiderwire fishing line. I like it because it is light and has virtually no stretch at reasonable tension. The Spiderwire connects to threaded rigging couplers that are threaded into clevises for adjustment. It has worked faultlessly, so far.
Today the timer on my transmitter went over 122 hours for the Super Cub. Of course a small part of that is set-up time, etc. but the great majority of it is actual flying time.
01-29-2007, 12:33 AM
I found your build thread over on rcgroups and read through a good bit of it yesterday. Very impressive. That is a really nice Cub you have. Also while digging through your posts there I found something on Adrian Page's 80" Super Cub kit. Guess what I bought yesterday? :rolleyes:
01-29-2007, 01:28 AM
Thank you Gary, your kind words are sure appreciated!
Congratulations on purchasing the Adrian Page 80" Super Cub!! It is really a nice kit, and even I can build it into a decent looking model, that is if you like "bush" planes.
Since this thread is about a Super Cub, I don't see what it could hurt to include some pic's of this one's bigger brother, my AP 80" Super Cub.
01-29-2007, 02:01 AM
Thanks for the Congrats on the new Cub! I'm really looking forward to it! I did look at the Dare kit but I really wanted a Super Cub and the mods you did to your Dare J-3 to turn it into a PA-18 seemed quite a bit over my head even though I've done some fabrication before. Also, the Page kit looked like it might be easier for me to assemble. I also have a "MicroAcro Cub" from House of Balsa that I haven't started yet and to be honest, these are my first kits. I feel that I can handle them though if I take my time and follow the instructions. That and my Father-in-law has been kit building for years so I have someone I can fall back on if I get in trouble. He's already shown me a lot of the "tricks of the trade" so I'm not going into this completely "newbie".
I noticed you have a very scale like landing gear setup on both your Cubs. Did you fabricate the gear on the bigger one? Looks great!
01-29-2007, 02:15 AM
Gary, I think you will be able to hanle the build on the 80" Super Cub just fine. It is all lazer cut and goes together well. Just take your time, and be sure everything fits right before you glue.
It is certainly a help to have someone to ask advice from if things get confusing. There is also an extensive thread on the Adrian Page 80" Super Cub in R/C Groups, Scale Electric Planes forum, that has lots of build information.
The landing gear on the Dare is just the stock bent wire system. Instead of making the wood strut inserts, I put some plastic tubing over the wires to make them more scale in size, and left them bare, as usually found on "bush plane" Super Cubs.
The gear on the 80" is the Robart 1/5 scale gear, available commercially. It cost nearly as much as the airplane kit! Does work nicely, though, once you get the proper strength bungees wrapped on it, so that the weight of the plane is supported, even in hard landings, yet there is still some "give" to it.
Good luck with your build!
01-29-2007, 12:09 PM
Thanks! I just looked up the Robart gear. You're right, pricey, but what the heck. I'm also looking to do scale lighting on it too. I was looking at the review on rcgroups and they had a system by Curtek, but they seemed to have gone away by the looks of their website. I wanted to try to do the interior but since the battery sits in there and also I don't want to add too much weight, I decided to skip that part.
Speaking of batteries, what are you powering your big Cub with? It's the cost of Lipos these days that's really going to hurt me on this build so this will probably be the only large scale electric I'll do for quite a while.
01-29-2007, 05:17 PM
My 80" Cub uses either a 4S 3700 mAh, 20C, or a 4S 4400 mAh 16C Polyquest lipo pack.
Now it is running a Hyperion Z4020-16 brushless outrunner motor, driving a wood 16 X 6 prop. I had a 16 X 8 on it until I broke it, and I think that the 16 X 8 was better.
Originally I used an Axi 2826/12,. driving a 14 X 7 prop, on it, but it was underpowered, and needed a lot of nose weight to balance, so I decided to try the larger motor. Now it balances well without extra weight, and the Hyperion definitely has more power. Both motors used the same battery packs.
The Hyperion also draws a lot less amps than the Axi. With a fresh, fully charged pack, it draws just under 30 amps, static, turning a 16 X 7 wood prop. The Axi drew almost 50 amps, turning a 14 X 7, and didn't seem to have as much thrust.
The Robart gear is very nice, but there is a guy over here in Idaho who is also making Cub gear. I haven't seen any of his gear, hands-on, but the pictures look good, and his price is quite a bit lower than Robart. Here's a link to his site, if you want to investigate. http://www.piperj3gear.com/
I also put a Curtek lighting system on my 80" Cub, but have had some trouble with it. The tail strobe and the right wingtip navigation blinker quit working. I haven't diagnosed the reason yet, so it may just be a bad connection or a shorted wire. Curtek used a wire that just had some kind of insulation "painted" on. Their system is very light, though.
01-29-2007, 05:38 PM
That's one thing I'm not looking forward to. The cost of batteries for this thing are gonna kill me! Oh well. Ya wanna play? Ya gotta pay! Gotta run a wooden prop on this too. Just looks cool!
That other gear looks good too. Considering what I figure this whole thing is going to end up costing me, I'm not going the sweat $30 difference. It'll really come down to which one looks better. Wish I could find some better pics of the two setups.
On the lighting, I'm not sure that Curtek is still around. He has a note on his website saying something about restructuring and being down indefinately. Didn't sound promising. I may have to find something else. Any suggestions anyone?
01-29-2007, 05:42 PM
Very nice bush plane!! i love those pics. looks like its flying in correct landscape! i have seen nice videos from those bush pilots. landing on rocky rivers.... cool
01-29-2007, 05:50 PM
I forgot to ask, what size tires are you using on your big Cub?
01-30-2007, 02:33 AM
19thsqn, thanks, bush planes are my favorites!
Speaking of videos, I've started a small colletion of bush and back country flying videos. It is really hard to find many very good ones, though.
Gary, the tires on the big Super Cub are 6" Trexlers. The 6 inchers are getting very hard to find, I got these from Great Hobbies, in Canada, but they were the last set they could get. Stephens Aero sometimes stocks them, but they have been out for quite a while. The ones they carried were a lighter weight, and didn't hold up too well. The ones I'm using are what they call "medium" weight. Instead of the wood Trexler rims, I substituted Dubro plastic rims, which look more realistic. Had to use a spacer between the rim halves, though so they would fit the Trexlers.
The Dubro tires that came on these rims are very heavy, even though they are inflatible. As I recall the pair of wheels and tires weighed about 22 ounces. The rims with Trexler tires are just over a third of that weight, at about 8 ounces, if I recall correctly.
01-30-2007, 02:37 AM
Gary, I forgot to mention that the wood Trexler wheels can be used too. I usually counter drill the centers in about 1/8 to 1/4 inch from each end, with as large a bit as I can, without weakening the rim too much. That lightens them, and they look better too, I think. Without taking it off by drilling, they have sort of a protruding wheel center that looks wierd.
02-01-2007, 12:26 AM
While we are discussing "other" Super Cub kits, Pat Tritle has just designed and kitted, (short kit), a very nice looking and very light 52.8" span Super Cub. Here's a link to Manzano Laser Works, who stocks the short kit: http://www.manzanolaser.com/id3.html This kit includes a good set of full-size plans and all of the laser cut wood, plus a plastic cowl. The builder has to furnish the strip wood and hardware. The 52" Super Cub is 5 channel with ailerons and working flaps as well. I have one of these kits, but haven't started the build yet.
Hobby Lobby also sells a nice three channel 46" Super Cub kit, which is a great bargain, as it usually sells for around $32., but is occasionally marked down. It is also an early Pat Tritle design. I built one and it was a good flyer, but was lost due to some kind of errant radio signal. I plan to build another some day.
If you are looking for large, then Balsa USA has a 1/3 scale Super Cub kit. Span is just over 140 inches. It is a very complete kit, but dates back to the 1950s or '60s. I'm currently building this kit, and it's going to be a long project. It is quite expensive, but worh it, I think, due to the size and completeness of the kit.
Ikon Northwest has a 1/4 scale Super Cub kit. Thi only thing I know about it is that a guy at our club has one, and it flies well.
Adrian Page also had a 40" Super Cub kit, but I don't know if it is still available.
02-02-2007, 04:59 AM
Here are a couple more pictures of my dear old 60" Super Cub.
02-06-2007, 02:43 AM
Flew the Super Cub again at the club field yesterday. We had about 2 inches of new powdery snow, so had to put the skis back on. The snow was so soft and got sticky, as it was starting to melt, that I had about 4 nose-overs on landings. Touch-and-goes were fine, but when the plane slowed and began to sink in the soft snow, the skis would grab and over she would go. Takeoffs were iffy too. Had to give full up elevator and full throttle until she got moving fairly well, then ease out of the elevator so the tail would come up, then rotate gently into the air. Great fun anyway!
I noticed when finished flying, that the hour log for this model on my transmitter read about 122.5 hours. A little of this is set up time, etc, but most of it is actual in-the-air flying time.
This model has served me well!
02-19-2007, 12:34 PM
I've been so busy reading through and bookmarking the 100 page 80" SuperCub thread on RCG that I forgot this one was here.
By the way AmpAce, one of your pics is now wallpaper on my computer . Hope ya don't mind. I think it might be the one you cropped down for your avatar. Love those mountains! :D
02-20-2007, 12:42 AM
Glad you saw fit to use one of my pic's! Thanks, I'm honored!
Yes we have a beautiful setting in which to fly. The pic in my avatar was taken at our club field where I often fly. The farthest back mountain ridges are near the Montana-Idaho state line. The plane is my Adrian Page 80" Super Cub, dropping in, and about to turn on final for a landing.
02-20-2007, 01:54 AM
By the way, I scrounged up a few more pic's-----. The first two are the AP Super Cub at our club field, and the rest are of my Dare Super Cub, flying at home, in our back yard.
02-21-2007, 01:43 AM
Got my AP Super Cub today. I can't wait to get started on it but I have a lot of things that have to come first. That's Ok though. It gives me more time to plan how I want to build it. I've read the entire 100 page thread on RCG but if you have any suggestions to add, I'm all ears.
02-21-2007, 04:30 PM
Gary, congrat's on recieving the AP Super Cub! Mine was a great kit, and I'm sure you will like it.
When I built mine, (actually, "put together", would be more accurate, since I bought the kit mostly framed up from another modeler), I didn't like the supplied landing gear or lift strut set-up, so decided to modify those.
I felt that the lift struts were too heavy, and tricky to build correctly, what with the covered 2-dowel arrangement. I built the main struts from fairly hard balsa, sanded to an airfoil shape, and built jury struts from small airfoil shaped and round aluminum tubing, pressed flat at the points where attachments were necessary, except at the tops of the upright tubes, where I glued in a short piece of threaded 2-56 rod to give some length adjustment. I devised a method to glue the rods into the tubes that seems to work very well. I simply rolled up toilet tissue around the portion of the rod that was to fit inside the tube, until it was a fairly snug fit. The rod was then forced into the tube to the proper depth and an abundant amount of thin CA was soaked into the tissue. It seems solid as can be, and has given no problems. I built small aluminum straps, ala scale, that wrap around the main struts to hold the lower end of the jury struts in place. These were bolted to the flattened lower end of the jury strut legs, along with the small round tube that makes up the longitudinal brace between the bottom of the jury strut legs.
The only downside I see with this setup, other than the tinkering required to put it all together, is that the whole works has to be disassembled to remove the lift strut assembly from the wing.
I also glued threaded rod into the ends of the main strut legs, and threaded clevises onto them, so that the shank of the clevis would countersink into the balsa strut just a bit, just for looks. The clevises attach to anchor points made up from flattened brass tubing soldered onto the ends of a short piece of threaded rod. These anchor points thread into blind nuts anchored to a built up mount inside the wing. The blind nuts are angled to match the strut angle.
I know this sounds pretty complicated, but isn't that bad, once you noodle it all out and plan how you want to do it. It does provide great adjustability to the lift struts, which is very handy for getting the washout even.
I used the 1/5 scale Robart Cub landing gear. This was an easy "bolt-on" operation. I used some small steel straps trapped under the rear landing gear anchor plates for the lower lift strut anchors. The clevis on the lower end of the lift strut simply clips into a hole in the outer end of the strap.
I also threw away the heavy pushrod assembly for the rudder and elevator, and used a pull-pull system for both. The pull-pull is made up of 30# test Spider Wire fishing line. I built up a belcrank assembly, located just behind the cabin area, to activate the pull-pull. Servos are in the standard location, and activate the belcrank through cf pushrods. This system works very well.
I also changed the fuselage in the area between the vertical fin and back of the wing, to take out most of the downward curve, or sag to the top outer fuse stringers, for a more scale appearance.
I also used scale-like hidden pushrods for flap actuation, with a servo located inside the wing for each flap.
Well, I've probably confused you enough with all of this! If you have questions, feel free to post them here, and I, or someone else will try to help.
02-21-2007, 05:28 PM
Thanks AmpAce! Actually, you haven't "confused" me. I've read the whole 100 page AP Cub thread on RCG, took tons of notes and you just gave me a little better picture of what you did on your Cub. Speaking if pics, if you have any of the strut mods, especially how you modified the wing and fuselage mounting points, I'd greatly appreciate it. I think it was you who also did the hatch on the bottom to access the radio gear. I plan to do that as well. Since I have a birthday coming up, I've "conned" my daughter into helping out so I might have that Robart landing gear setup, but if not, I'll get it anyway. Looks too good to pass up. :D I also plan to do a lighting setup although since Curtek may have gone away, I'll have to figure out something else.
By the way, I'm going to drop a little secret on you. I've never built a kit before! Seriously! :eek: All RTFs and ARFs until now. I have a few smaller kits (A Mountain Models Dandy and a HofB Micro AcroCub) to build first so I can get a feel for it and also my father-in-law builds kits so I have help if I get stuck. Also, I'm sure I have lots of help on these forums. Personally, I feel really good tackling this. It's going to be a good feeling to see the Cub fly (although I might have to wait a while :rolleyes: ). I'm pretty good at fabricating things (you should see my lawnmower) so most of the mods I've read about hopefully shouldn't be too hard for me.
(Thanks in advance for all the questions I'm sure to ask!)
02-22-2007, 05:17 PM
Gary, I'm afraid I didn't get any pictures of the strut mounting points, while visible. I will include an overall one of the plane when it was about all framed up, that might be of some help.
I'll also post a shot of the radio compartment minus hatch. The hatch is simply a sheet of light ply covered over and screwed into place.
Also will include some finished photos of the jury strut details. It is hard to see in the pictures, but at the bottom of the jury strut legs, where the straps that go around the main struts meet the airfoil shaped jury strut legs, there is a short piece of tubing, flattened at each end, and twisted so that the flattened ends are at 90 degrees to each other. This makes the transition from the straps being parallel with the wing to the jury strut legs which are parallel to the fuselage. A bolt goes through the strap and the bottom end of the flattened, twisted tube, and another bolt goes through the top of the twisted tube, the end of the longitudinal brace tube, and the flattened bottom of the airfoil shaped jury strut leg. This holds everything together.
As you can see by the photos, my workmanship isn't very tidy, but the strut system does seem to work well.
I'm sure that if you build a couple of smaller models first, you won't have too much trouble with the AP Super Cub. Probably the most intimidating thing for a beginner, at least for me, is the covering. I used Sig Aerokote on this model, but there are many good coverings out there. I think that other than the amount of area involved, covering a larger model is easier than a smaller one.
Best of luck with your building! I think you will find it very rewarding to actually craft a plane that really flys, as opposed to assembling an ARF, where most of the engineering has been already taken care of for you.
02-22-2007, 07:14 PM
The pics help. Thanks. I'm also thinking about trying to do the two piece wing mod mentioned in the RCG thread but not sure if I can handle that. Don't want to screw up and watch the wind fold up in flight. I like that air vent underneath. Hey, your workmanship has got to be better than mine! Almost everything I've ever built (before I got into R/C planes) was "function first, looks later" so I've built some pretty ugly stuff! Now I actually have to make them pretty too. This is going to take some work! :D
I have the models I mentioned earlier to build (have both standard and sport wings for the dandy) and will probably add a couple more planes before I do the Cub. I think the Cub might actually be easier for me just because it's bigger. You're right about the covering though. That's the one part that intimidates me the most. Even my father-in-law isn't going to be any help there because he still does the old tissue covering and paint. All his models are static display. He doesn't understand why anyone would want to fly one and chance wrecking it. In the case of the AP Super Cub, I can sort of understand his point but I've got to see it fly at least once (or maybe a couple hundred times :rolleyes: ).
03-07-2007, 09:38 PM
Got my wife to snap a few more photos while flying out of our back yard this morning. The weather has been so nice that I have to think Spring is actually somewhere just "around the corner"! The temperature got up to about 65 degrees yesterday.
Anyway here are a few new "bushflying" pics for all to enjoy.
03-18-2007, 05:21 PM
That's looking good!
I agree with gsk about the build..it went from scratch to built to build pictures. :) Looks awesome!
Glad to hear all is going well with it!
03-18-2007, 05:55 PM
Thanks Aircruiser! Yes, it makes a model look better to have a photogenic background.
I flew the Super Cub again yesterday at the club field. Due to a stupid mistake on my part, I almost crashed it.:o I had been flying a different plane on the DX-6 radio with a short antenna, and when I picked up the other radio to fly the Cub, I forgot to extend the antenna. I flew around for a while and everything was fine, but suddenly got over a "bad" part of the field and "glitch city"!:eek: She was out of control and headed for the ground, but I managed to remember what was wrong, and jerked the antenna out just in time. Fortunately I was just able to get the plane straightened out and flared a bit, so it landed on it's wheels.:D
There was no damage, but it was much too close for comfort!
03-19-2007, 03:54 AM
Thats good to hear there was no destruction amp ace!!
Those close calls are always a good reminder that any number of things could go wrong and before you know it the plane could end up being a pile of parts. I had one of those a few months ago when I was maiening my stryker. I took my eyes off it for one second to look at a car parked on the side of the road watching me fly and next thing I knew my plane was headed towards the ground at a 60 degree angle. And with strykers trying to find the right way up quickly can be tough! So I pulled up and hoped for the best. It worked. :D
04-12-2007, 04:51 AM
Aircruiser, glad you made the great save with the Sryker! I just plain got lucky on that last one. I used to take-off with the antenna down fairly regularly, and it cost me some damaged planes. Now it's a rare event. Hope that was the last one for a while!
By the way, the old Super Cub is still going strong!
04-12-2007, 05:01 AM
04-12-2007, 11:02 PM
Aircruiser, glad you made the great save with the Sryker! I just plain got lucky on that last one. I used to take-off with the antenna down fairly regularly, and it cost me some damaged planes. Now it's a rare event. Hope that was the last one for a while!
By the way, the old Super Cub is still going strong!
good to hear and a spektrum would solve the antenna up/down deal :D :D
Yet I run all stock radios too..no money for a spektrum..have fun flying that cub!
04-13-2007, 02:24 AM
:o Actually, the Spectrum DX-6 is part of the reason I forgot to raise the antenna. I had just been flying another Super Cub, equipped with the Spectrum system, so it just felt natural to have a short antenna!
Weak excuse, I know, but what really amazed me was how far away the Cub got before it started losing signal. It was probably at least 300' at one point, and had come back a little closer when the glitching and lack of control started. It's really embarassing to fly that long and not realize that the antenna was down!:o
04-13-2007, 03:54 AM
300ft? Thats what hobby zone says the maximum range is :eek:
I wonder what the full range is antenna up? I know I have hit atleast 300 with my stock super cub..I got to the point where it was a white dot with wings way up in the sky..
04-13-2007, 06:12 AM
Flew the Super Cub again at the club field yesterday. We had about 2 inches of new powdery snow, so had to put the skis back on.
AmpAceI hear you man. I put my gloves and hat away for spring, only to dig them out again.:eek:
My GWS Beaver float plane has done me well in the snow too, this past, and continuing,:D winter.
Nice pics too. With a pilot, the 7th pic would look like a real one coming in.
04-18-2007, 05:36 PM
Thanks, Bill! Yea, I've got to get with putting pilots in my planes. Sure makes them look better! I just spend so much energy building and keeping the fleet flying, that I have tended to overlook preparing and installing a pilot. Maybe in the future.
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