Mini Telemaster Build thread

[rcers]

Well I thought I would do my next build thread here on Wattflyer instead of the other site.

I wanted to build the Airtronics Q-Tee, my first RC airplane. It was crashed into a brick wall into a million pieces on its first flight. (I was self taught!).

Sadly it is no longer available. Plans used to be available from RCM magazine, but sadly they are now gone too. So I didn't want to send money for plans and wonder.....

Anyway, another classic plane is the Hobby Lobby Telemaster. They have a Mini version that should be perfect for my brushless system installed in my slow stick. Since my son just totalled the slow stick, I thought this would be a great build and use for that airborn equipment.

Let me know what you think!

Mike

[buzzbomber]

Good idea, Mike! My Mini Telemaster has been a great plane. It's easy to build and flies well on moderate power, especially after a minor improvement or two. There shouldn't be any surprises for you as an experienced builder, but be aware that it is very easy to introduce a warp into the horizontal stabilizer and/or wing when covering with anything heavier than So-lite--not a problem, just something to pay attention to. You may also wish to enlarge the area of the rudder. My plane had issues in yaw control with the intended rudder size--I simply added a strip 1/2" wide at the bottom and 1/4" wide at the top to the rear of the rudder. It has very good tracking and performs rudder rolls now, without losing any of its good habits. Just my 2cents. I think you'll enjoy the plane and look forward to seeing what you come up with!

[rcers]

very easy to introduce a warp into the horizontal stabilizer and/or wing when covering with anything heavier than So-lite--not a problem

Yep I have a great trick for that, you actually put the surface on a flat table and tape the covering over the top of the surface, then shrink. Keeps the surface flat.

enlarge the area of the rudder.

Thanks for the tip - keep them comming! I will be adding ailerons, so I may just stick with the stock size, but it is a bit smallish.....

MIke

[rcers]

Kit contents right out of the box....

Laser cut ribs and center pieces. Lots of sticks for the fuse and tail feathers. Will still be a very easy build as buzzbomber confirms!

[rcers]

Here we go with last nights work - exactly 1 hour 40 minutes to have a wing that is framed!

I am adding ailerons, so as you can see from the pic I added a strip of 1/4" balsa to the trailing edge (TE) ribs to be the new TE. I will use the formed TE stock as the actual aileron surface. Super easy to do!

I should note that I also decreased the dihedral, since I will be using ailerons. DO NOT DO THIS IF YOU USE RUDDER ONLY! It will severly limit the effectiveness of the rudder, and your plane won't turn!

[Turbojoe]

I've had my fuse built for over a year now. I've been waiting to get around to building the wing with flaps and ailerons. Problem is, I just haven't gotten around to it yet.:rolleyes:


Joe

[rcers]

I will race you Joe! :) ;)

I like stick builds, slows me down a bit and I can cut, sand, cut, sand, cut and sand.

It has been great fun so far! My fuse should be done today if the Honey Do's dont come....

Mike

[N827TM]

Nice Job, Mike. I am just watching your thread with this bird because it will probably be my next project after the Cessna 150 is complete. The kit sitting in my house waiting to be built. Hopefully, you will post a video of it flying when complete.

Tom

[Turbojoe]

I was really surprised at how much I enjoyed the stick build too. It's great to keep sanding just a little at a time to get a perfect fit for a multi angle cross brace. I may even cover it in transparent just to show off the build.


Joe

[rcers]

I may even cover it in transparent just to show off the build.

Yep I am debating that as well. It would look really nice.....

Great fun getting all those angles right. I have never built a plane with NO FORMERS before! It is cool to just use sticks.

More pics tonight....

Mike

[turnwaldw]

Looks great mike I am building the big brother right know the .40 size. You want sticks get your hands on this one I am really intrested in the build might want to build the smaller version to cart around in my car in case i want to get some flight time in on the way home from work since I pass our field on the way home. Keep up the good work.
Dave

[Turbojoe]

I built a .40 size Telemaster back in the 80's. The hardest part of flying that plane was landing it. It didn't want to land! I've never seen anything float like that thing did. I always had to dead stick it because the small amout of thrust at idle would always cause me to overshoot my landings. That was a great airplane. I may electrify one someday. In addition to the mini TM that is.


Joe

[turnwaldw]

Thats what I heard about the telemaster 40 was that its a floater this is the hobby lobby setup for electric I am adding the flaps so I might not need them to land. Its a nice plane to build hopefully soon I will get off twelve hours and seven days so I can build some more.

[rcers]

Some more build pics.......

Here is the fuse, never built one without formers before!

[rcers]

Now for the firewall. I have an PJS 550 E motor that I will use on this.

The firewall position was just a bit too forward, and the motor stuck out too far. Simple fix, I will mount it from the rear and just added some scrap around the mount holes. Worked great!

[rcers]

The tail feathers are built up, very standard and easy to do.

[rcers]

Joined the wing tonight.

I am using or rather adding ailerons, so I didn't want the 3" of dihedral in the wing. I cut that to 1.25" total as the ailerons will assist in turns.

This meant that I had to re-do the center ply dihedral brace. So I cut a new one from lite-ply with a touch less than half of the angle in it.

Make sure that fit it nice and tight on the inside of the spars to make and "I" beam. The wing not folding depends on this! So take all the time necessary to make sure that it fits against both spars top and bottom in both sides of the wing. Also make sure that it hits the ribs at 90 degress tight against the ribs to transfer the loads to the shear webs in the next bay of ribs. This too is critical to the strength of the wing.

I used 30 minute epoxy to joint the halves. I leave the wing with one panel flat on the board, and the other panel proped up in the air, supported with a book, so everything stays nice and flat.

I take the wing off the table in 1 hour (30 minute epoxy) and then will leave the clamps on overnight. The following pic shows my fancy clothes pin clamps!

[Turbojoe]

Thanks for posting your progress. Once I finish all the wings for the Mountain Models EVA I may drag my mini TM out for a little more work. I'm not overly impressed with my AXI 2212/34 but it ought to work fine in this plane. I'll have to do some brainstorming and get the flaps worked into the design. Who cares if they're very effective. They'll mainly be for looks. ;)


Joe

[rcers]

Joe that AXI would be perfect for this plane. My 550 e motor is just about the same. A 10x3.8 or 9x6 SF type props on 3s pull 10amps. Max for my motor (and yours) and it will pull this plane easily.

I eventually plan on using this for some aerial photography. Should be fun!

Mike

[Turbojoe]

I've been flying the AXI in a Dandy and a SwitchBack. I know that BEC knows much more about motors than I ever will but his idea of an afterburner is much different than mine. The motor runs fine and is very quiet. It just isn't the powerhouse I expected based on the "silent afterburner" thread on RCG. It's probably the most docile motor I have but the TM won't need a lot of power to fly well.


Joe

[Deereret]

I am following this closely as I just got the kit,motor ESC from HL. Not going to do mine for awhile yet but this will help me I am sure. I read on another thread that the wing warps easily when covering so I hope you cover that in this thread. I am thinking about putting balsa planking on the wing center section since I also read of problems with damage from the rubber bands..
Gene

[buzzbomber]

I am thinking about putting balsa planking on the wing center section since I also read of problems with damage from the rubber bands..
Gene

I didn't foresee this possibility when I built mine, and the rubber bands were a bit too small, so they did crush the wing trailing edge a bit. What I did was cut two small pieces of aluminum soda can, about 1/2" wide x 3/4" long, folded in half and placed on the TE where the rubber bands hold it down--works great!

[rcers]

balsa planking on the wing center section since I also read of problems with damage from the rubber bands..

Rubber bands are a big pain, and truthfully when you have enought to keep the wing on properly, they won't "pop off" and save you wing.

So mine will be a bolt on wing for sure. I have not figured out how I will do that just yet however. The front does not yeild itself to a typical dowel setup. Still thinking about that one. Maybe bolts front and back....

Mike

[crashaddict]

I have a Minnie Telemaster that I built for a Norvel .061 and flew it two or three times and now I have converted it to an electric by installing an E-Fligt 370 motor. 8 amp ESC and a 3 cell Li-Po battery. I get 10 - 12 min flights on it.


Crashaddit

[Deereret]

rcers, Let us know how you end up doing the wing. Are you going to add a battery hatch in the bottom of the fuselage? I would be most interested how you do that. Continue to post pictures as they are a major help to me. You know the old saying about the worth of a picture.
Gene

[N827TM]

When I also build my mini Telemaster I will also do bolt on wings. I think it is the only way to go. Mike, you are doing a great job.

Tom

[turnwaldw]

I,m building the larger telemaster and I,m trying to go the same route really dont like the ruber band deal.
Dave

[rcers]

Are you going to add a battery hatch in the bottom of the fuselage?

Yep I will do that too.

[buzzbomber]

Re: battery hatches, I just happened to find these pictures of my mini telemaster while clearing the HD on my work computer. The first shows what I did for a battery hatch--I simply cut out a section of the bottom sheeting after building the fuse, then glued in support rails and added tongues to locate the hatch in the front with a magnet in the rear, matching to a washer glued on another tongue in the fuselage. I also added a battery tray about 2" up in the fuselage--velcro on the battery and a velcro strap through slits in the tray secure the battery--it always stayed put. The second picture is last winter(obviously) with the TM doing ski duty. I apologize for the picture quality, the first picture is from my 1.3mp cam archives and the second is from a cellphone:rolleyes: . Anyhow, just hoped to give you some inspiration.

[rcers]

Buzz that hatch is exactly what I am thinking.....thanks for the pic!

Mike

[rcers]

Here is an update.....

Aileron time. I put in a half in piece on the wingtip and will use that for shaping the round tips. Then just standard aileron torque tubes and rods.

I used some scrap tubing and wire (about 1/32"). I put in the 90 degree bends for the tubes and ailerons. I rough up the tubes and wire so it will adhere well.

Then you just cut a slot for the tube in the Trailing edge material. Then I glued them with thick CA to the inner TE stock. Make triple sure you don't use more than a drop of CA as you don't want it to wick into the tubes glueing the rods!

Now for a trick that I have used in the past. Take some thin aluminum tube, flatten one end, drill a small hole in the end. Place that tube filled with epoxy on the end and then crimp (crush) the tube around the rod. Makes a nice, light way to connect to the torque rods.

Then I added some stock for the aileron servo to sit in. I just glued that to the bottom of the wing to allow the clearance for the servo. It is a off center servo placement so I would not hae to cut the middle ribs. I don't mind doing that with sheeting but this plane has none, so I want it for the stregth.

Simple and easy!

Mike

[rcers]

Here are the pics that show the aileron servo installed.

[buzzbomber]

Lookin' good, Mike. It's kind of refreshing to see someone actually use a single servo aileron setup these days, and I think you made the right choice for this plane, considering the light structure.

[rcers]

Here we go with a touch more work tonight.

Some webbing added.

Note that instead of glueing to the outside of the spar, it is much better IMHO to do the shear webs inside the spars. This makes an I beam. this makes the setup much stronger and does not rely on the shear strenght of the glue, but rather transfers the load to the wood.

You must, must however take plenty of time, to make sure the pieces are snug. Also note the grain direction - that is very important as the basla does not crush.

Mike

[buzzbomber]

Mike, not to derail your thread too much here, but I just wanted to let you know that the Mini Telemaster can definitely handle AP work. I just flew mine for the first time tonight since I "unmothballed" it and retrofitted my Nikon 3200 and a Hacker A20-20L I guess I should call it the "Mini Telephoto" now:rolleyes: ?

I made a simple mount of paint stir sticks from Home Despot and liteply, with nylon hardware to bolt it to the fuselage(ply doublers were added) and allow the camera to tilt. I had to velcro an ounce of weight to the left wingtip to regain lateral balance, and it still needed left trim once airborn. I've attached a junky picture from my cellphone which shows the camera and mount setup, and one from the first batch I shot. It may or may not be of use to you, depending on what your intended setup for AP is. Pics weren't bad considering they were taken 10 minutes before statute sunset tonight. Hopefully, I'll get a chance to weed through the shots I took and post some on the AP forum here and on "that other site" tomorrow.

edit: the highlighted circle in the aerial shot is me, in case anyone's wondering

[rcers]

but I just wanted to let you know that the Mini Telemaster can definitely handle AP work.

Nope that is what mine will do too! I will fly without the mods first. I will use my Nikon 2500 Coolpix, but it will be mostly inside the fuse. Plans are to mount it to the bottom or in this case top of the battery tray. My lens swivels, so mounting and angle will be a snap.

Pics to come (when I get to that!).

Mike

[rcers]

Well some more work....

Landing gear is done and mounted. I will fix the slight toe in before flight!

Just one strap, it will be plenty.

[rcers]

Here is the tailwheel......

I will make mine steerable, instead of just a wire skid.

I will use a piece of thin 1/32" ply with a servo brass gromet insert to act as a bushing. Easy and light.

[Turbojoe]

Nice build progress. Mine is definitely in the queue now. I need to make it special though. I think I'll try to recreate the red, white and blue U.S. Mail livery I did on my Telemaster 40 back in the 80's.


Joe

[buzzbomber]

I love the idea of using a servo grommet as a bushing for the tailwheel strut! I simply bent a length of music wire to the desired shape and sandwiched it inside of a dubro 1/2a control horn(the type with a screw plate on both sides of the control surface) at the bottom of the rudder, but your idea seems far more durable, and somehow more elegant.

[rcers]

I think I'll try to recreate the red, white and blue U.S. Mail livery I did on my Telemaster 40 back in the 80's.

That will look great. Mine will be red and yellow. Should be covering soon. I need to get the wing mount figured out as I have to get balance set, so I can get the battery tray servos in the right spot.

Almost ready to cover!

Mike

[rcers]

I love the idea of using a servo grommet as a bushing for the tailwheel strut! I simply bent a length of music wire to the desired shape and sandwiched it inside of a dubro 1/2a control horn(the type with a screw plate on both sides of the control surface) at the bottom of the rudder, but your idea seems far more durable, and somehow more elegant.

I have used this method, as well as a "tube" that is fiberglassed to the fuse tail post work well. This method is light and takes the stress off the rudder.

On bigger planes I just break down and buy the plastic ones for a buck and change!

Mike

[rcers]

On to the wing mounting.

I started with a 1/16" piece of ply glued to the front of the wing saddle. It will be used for "holding" the dowel.

From the bottom (second shot) you can see the notch for where the dowel can go. It is not very long as the windscreen is right there.

[rcers]

The wing dowel was tricky as the wing is really the highest point of the fuse. So how about glueing the wing dowel to the bottom side of ribs. This lowers where it hits. A bit of fiberglass tape (very light stuff) to give just a touch more security. Remember the loads on the front of the wing are much higher than the rear.

[rcers]

On to the wing mount. I glued a piece of 1/8 lite ply to the fuse sides, below the sticks. That gives it tons of strength.

Then I center the wing measure the tips to tail (to assure it is square) and tape the wing on. The tape holds it from shifting while drilling. Drill wing and block at the same time.

Then you tap the 1/8 lite ply block and put thin ca on the threads. Dry. Then retap the threads. This makes it super strong no binds nuts needed.

Some 1/32" ply glued to the TE material adds needed strength for the bolts.

Drill out the holes in the wing so the bolts slip through easily.

Done!

Bolts are far better than rubber bands....

[rcers]

Battery tray is done. CG checks show that the battery should be about here. I hope so, as the LG block will make it tough to go any further forward.

Just a piece of 1/8" lite ply....

[rcers]

Radio installation time for the elevator and rudder. Hitec hs55's used here.

I like solid wire pushrods. I use .032 wire and 1/8" support beams. I didn't have a small light tube, so I improvised with the heaver tube, but only put it in the important places! Works good and keeps it light.

[rcers]

This may be the last update for a bit of time. I am doing a review for a very exctiting new RC product, and it will be very time consuming taking all my hobby time and more! I takes me forever to write, re-write, edit, take pictures and so on. Gives you a great appreciation for how much work a simple article can be!

Don't worry I will be back as soon as possible. I have a 30 day deadline so it won't be long. Maybe I will get a touch more done before my product arrives.

Mike

[Deereret]

My fuse is about half done ( I work slooow). I will be using HS 55's also so this will help. It looks like in the 2nd pic from the right that the push rods cross. Is this the way they are or am I seeing things? Thanks.
Gene

[buzzbomber]

It does appear that way. Typically(not always), pushrods do cross to allow the end an easier angle to exit the fuselage at the aft end. Mine are set up this way as well. Try to avoid letting the pushrods rub against one another (metal-metal or carbon-carbon) as this can cause radio interference.

On another note, telemaster related, I had to do some repair work to mine last night(~20 minutes, including patching the covering). I snuck out of the office for a lunchtime sortie yesterday, and when I was setting up the camera servo, I bumped the throttle. In the 1/2 second it took me to react, the plane lurched forward and the 10x5APC took a bite out of the center wing rib and 1st rib on the port side. It was an easy fix and I wrapped the front portion of the center rib with FG tape for good measure--better than new.

[rcers]

My fuse is about half done ( I work slooow). I will be using HS 55's also so this will help. It looks like in the 2nd pic from the right that the push rods cross. Is this the way they are or am I seeing things? Thanks.
Gene

Yep they do cross!

Typically(not always), push-rods do cross to allow the end an easier angle to exit the fuselage at the aft end. Mine are set up this way as well. Try to avoid letting the push-rods rub against one another (metal-metal or carbon-carbon) as this can cause radio interference.

Exactly right. I need in fact to do a spacer for them as they now rub together. Two more short lengths of tube for the rear end will solve that, or a balsa separator.

Mike

[Deereret]

The wing dowel was tricky as the wing is really the highest point of the fuse. So how about glueing the wing dowel to the bottom side of ribs. This lowers where it hits. A bit of fiberglass tape (very light stuff) to give just a touch more security. Remember the loads on the front of the wing are much higher than the rear.
What's the little block near the end of the dowel?
Gene
OOOps I went back and looked. I think it's one of the aileron servo mopunting blocks. I will do bolt on wings but no ailerons.

[rcers]

What's the little block near the end of the dowel?
Gene
OOOps I went back and looked. I think it's one of the aileron servo mopunting blocks. I will do bolt on wings but no ailerons.

Yep that is it.....

[rcers]

Well lookie and what got done over the last couple of days!!!

[rcers]

It flies exactly like larger Telemasters, slow and beautiful! It flew hands off, right from a 7ft roll. It is proped for 7.3 amps with the 9x4.7 APC-sf prop and PJS 550SF motor.

AUW is - are you ready for this......

17.3oz! That is with the Tanic 1550 3s pack.

Loops are effortless - even at 7.3amps and it flies inverted quite well! Rolls are very slow, and stall turns are breathtaking.

A fantastic flier. Lets put it this way, I was doing touch and goes, first touching only the left wheel then only the right wheel. Does that tell you how gentle this is!

Fantastic plane, cant wait to get the camera in it!

Mike

[Deereret]

Wow that was fast at the end. Good lookin plane. I saw the TW pivot arrangement but can you fill me in on how you tied it to the rudderThanks
Gene

[rcers]

Gene I just drill a small hole in the rudder and slip the wire right into the hole. I make the a 90 degree bend and about a 1/2" long.

Works really very well. It is .047 wire if I recall, so it is easy to bend. Truthfully the tail is only on the ground for a fraction of a second and I don't really know that it needs more than a skid or fixed wheel.

6-7ft rolls on the ground! That is with this propped at 7.3 amps. So It is not overpowered by any means. A GWS 300 brushed motor and gearbox would fly this model well!

They even had the kit on sale for $19 bucks today! :D

Mike

[Deereret]

Yeah I saw that sale price. Rats I got mine a couple of months ago. Got the Nippy Black they recommend so it should fly well I think. Got all winter to get it done. Hoew did you exit the pushrods? They ssow a Z bend on the plan and this would require slots I think. I got a set of DuBro .032 pushrods with the tubes. I hope I can make it work. This is my 1st build actually so I need all the help I can get. Thanks.
Gene

[rcers]

Hoew did you exit the pushrods? They ssow a Z bend on the plan and this would require slots I think. I got a set of DuBro .032 pushrods with the tubes. I hope I can make it work. This is my 1st build actually so I need all the help I can get. Thanks.
Gene

Those pushrods will work great!

I just use a small piece of clear tape and then cut a slit in the covering for the wires to exit. The tape assures the covering does not tear or shread near the exits. It works very well.

Mike

[buzzbomber]

I got a set of DuBro .032 pushrods with the tubes. I hope I can make it work. This is my 1st build actually so I need all the help I can get. Thanks.
Gene

Gene,

Just a consideration for you regarding those pushrods. I installed the same type in my mini telemaster, but I had problems with them at first leaving too much slop in the control actuation(I forgot to anchor them in the middle and had to strip the covering to add a brace). They are very flexible, like cable, so make sure the sleeves are supported at each end and no more than 6" unsupported in between. My pushrod braces were very simple-just a 3/32"x1/4" wide strip with holes for the pushrods spanning the fuselage uprights. Happy building!

[Deereret]

Thanks for the tip. I was wondering abour that very thing. I will install the pushrods before covering and then remove them for covering.Think I will leave the servos in though. Did you exit yours thru the filled in section on each side at the tail?
Gene

[rcers]

Did you exit yours thru the filled in section on each side at the tail?
Gene

Mine just exit through the covering, no balsa inserts were used. I use tape to keep the covering from tearing.

Mike

[Deereret]

Geez another question. Can I use DuBro hinge tape for the rudder and elevator? No ailerons.
Gene

[rcers]

You bet you can. I just use regular clear tape too! It works just fine.

Mike

[leparks]

I found this forum this morning from RCU and straight to this thread. I enjoyed reading about these mods, as I have built two now. I enlarged the rudder on the second, but it still lacks the control authority I would like. Otherwise, I love these things for quick and easy flights in small fields. I think I will follow the lead and convert to an aileron setup on my planes...

I built the blue one first to fly while visiting my brother in LA. I'm back heading there the end of next week! It is pretty much stock except for the steerable tailwheel...

I built the orange one for home since I liked the first one so much, but only see it for a couple of weeks a year. Besides the tailwheel, I enlarged the rudder and cradled the battery to the wing center section for easy access...

(Ah, not sure if I did the picture thing right on this...:D)

[buzzbomber]

leparks, welcome aboard wattflyer! Two nice Telemasters you've got there, and I love the plane cradle! Yet another use for antlers:) .

[rcers]

Yep you need the ailerons! They turns it very very well. leparks - your planes look great!

Rudder only ships all lack the authority I like, especially with wind.

Mike

[skyvolt12]

Hi Hoppy,
This a trial run to see if I am doing it right.
Skyvolt

[vanderbt]

I'm building my second Mini-Telemaster and my second RC plane. I got many good hours flying my first one but, alas it lost control for some unexplained reason and hit a backstop at full speed.

Did you modify the angle of RS1, RS2 and RS3 to match the new reduced angle to match the dihedral brace? Or would it be possible to "shim" the gap between center ribs? (This relates to post #17on this page.) My email address is vanderbt@yahoo.com.

[rcers]

Did you modify the angle of RS1, RS2 and RS3

Yes I did - good luck with the build!

Snap some pics along the way.

Mike

[Deereret]

Here are some pics. My first build.
Gene

[buzzbomber]

Nice job, Gene! I'm sure it'll fly just as good as it looks;).

[texas]

Mike, Nice job with your mini-t. I have just started building one and your thread is so much help,thanks. Iam going to power mine just the same as yours, I think. Looks like a very good combo and its already tried, easy to follow your lead. Maybe you can give me some ideas on battery. I thinking of ni-cads over lipo ( easy to care and use maybe ?) is this a mistake ? I respect your opinion. Thanks again for helping by posting such a wonderful thread

[rcers]

texas - thanks!

I have to be honest with you all batteries store significant energy. The ONLY fire I have had was with NiCads! So they all need respect.

LiPoly's certainly do demant that respect also but I still use them because they have the best energy density per weight. In other words they are light and store lots of power for that motor to use.

If I were building this plane today from scratch I would use a different power system. The Skatty xt400 motor from Hobby Lobby http://www.hobby-lobby.com/brushless-skatty.htm is cheap and quite powerful. On sale you can get it for $15-20! And I would use a small 1200-1500 mAh 3s Lipoly battery. That keeps it light and it flies wonderfully!

Just my $0.02!

Mike

[texas]

I might just try that Mike, I'm a little bit worried about the weight though. I reserched through the threads and saw your ace 400, neat! Looks like mini-T's weight will be at the top of available limit. I really just don't want a underpowered plane. But I know you would not suggest it if that was the case. I really liked your comment about your mini-t going vertical till you stopped it. I like slow real flight but want available power too. give me more $0.02. Thanks a lot Mike .

[rcers]

I really liked your comment about your mini-t going vertical till you stopped it. To be candid - it certainly did not have unlimited vertical. The Skatt will make a good power source for the type of plane - it is a telemaster after all!

Truthfully it does not need a lot of power! But if you want more the AXI 2212 motors would give it a boost over the skatty...

Mike

[buzzbomber]

This is true. On the AXI 2212/26, I can fly my Mini T with a Pencam on board with trainer-type flight performance by using a 10x6HD prop and 2S lipo. Using a 9x5HD prop and 3S lipo, I have to be careful about when I use full throttle. It has plenty of power in this configuration to haul up a 9oz. Nikon and extra servo, too. If you're NOT hauling a camera up, the 400XT will definitely be plenty of power.

[texas]

I think I'll go with the skatt Its my first electric and that should be a good start. Thanks

[Captain Ken]

I am also in the process of building a Mini TM. A guy at the LHS recommended that I put a Park 450 in my Telemaster. The extra power will pull more weight in future planes. Might this be too heavy for the Mini TM? The difference is 1/2 an ounce.

[buzzbomber]

I very much doubt the extra weight will be an issue. Matter of fact, I had to add 1/2 of weight to the front of the firewall when I bolted the AXI 2212 on the nose in order to keep the battery mounting location the same. With this motor and a 3S pack, the plane shrugs off the weight of a 9oz camera, so I think you'll be okay.

[Captain Ken]

That's good to know. I am also considering adding ailerons for better control early on and greater control as I get more comfortable flying this plane. Thoughts?

[rcers]

Ailerons = YES. They work very well.....and will help the plane grow with you longer.

Mike

[Turbojoe]

A Park 450?! Holy cow! I've seen this motor turn a 16 ounce plane into a missile.

I love my Park 480 in a 37 ounce plane. These seem to be very nice motors. The 450 will probably never need more than 1/4 throttle in your Telemaster. Good on later, heavier builds but I'll bet the 400 will get you by just fine for this plane. IF I ever get around to finishing my Mini Telemaster (with flaps and ailerons) I don't plan to use more than a 100 watt motor.


Joe

[texas]

My skatt came ! What prop should I use ?

[texas]

Maybe I'll use a 8x6 prop. I can start there.

[rcers]

Skatty prop and telemaster is GWS HD 9x5 prop. Perfect for both.

Mike

[TheOldGuy]

I've been flying for years and have never heard of So-Lite. Where do you get it?
Charlie

[Tank52]

Allerc.com has a good selection of Solite at a good price...

http://www.allerc.com/product_info.php?products_id=1085

I've been flying for years and have never heard of So-Lite. Where do you get it?
Charlie

[rcers]

I've been flying for years and have never heard of So-Lite. Where do you get it?
Charlie

Tower carries it in another name:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGDV2&P=7

Nelson/Solite:
http://www.nelsonhobby.com/covers.html

Mike

[TheOldGuy]

Thanks everyone for the tips.
Charlie

[texas]

Ok, thanks Mike

[Papaw14]

Getting ready to cover my Mini Telemaster and could use some suggestions on how to do it. I am going to use So-lite unless someone has a better suggestion. My question is, how do I cover the top of the wing, do I stick the covering just to the top of the turbulators or do I stick it to the ribs in between them? This will be my first iron-on covering job, it has been over 40 years since I flew any rc planes. I have really enjoyed the build, it brought back lots of memories and also showed just how much my building skills have diminished. Any advice will be much appreciated.

[rcers]

Papaw14 - covering is a bit of an art - take you time.

Nelson/SoLite is somewhat difficult to work with - but WELL worth the effort. It sticks to it's backing far better than any covering - so use scotch tape and stick one piece to a corner on the top and the other peice on the same corner on the bottom same corner. The pull apart - neat trick. DO NOT LET it touch adhesive side to adhesive side - it will stick instantly to itself (unlike other covering)

In a nutshell you cut the covering (oversize by a couple of inches in every direction - when you get better you can decrease that amount slightly).

Separate the backing. Start with the bottom of the wing. Tack it to all for corners of the wing - pulling most wrinkles out gently - not too much pressure.

Then tack to several places on the LE and trailing edge. Again pull slightly.

Then seal all the way around the covering - then start shrinking.

Then stick to the ribs and turbulators.

Then change the temp to a bit higher and shrink out the open space wrinkles.

Take a little material and cover something you don't care as much about to get some practice.

It will come back to you.

Read this FIRST - before you do anything!!!!:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52764

Mike

[mackey]

Hi,
My mini flew away on me! Seems like xmitter antenna had been slowly unscrewing itself from xmitter. One day it lost signal and is yet to be found. However, I had built a modified wing for it and still have a wing. If someone could provide me with the fuselage length, stab width, and fuse width at TE of wing, I'll build another fuselage from scrap wood.

Any info will help. The wing I have is 7" chord and 48" WS.

Bill
mackey77@yahoo.com:blah:

[mudduck]

Hi RCERS

I am a retired supervisor who worked 42 years in the automotive business. I am looking at your thread regarding the Mini-Telemaster as I have purchased one a while back. I also believe I have the plan for the "Q-TEE" in my basement; I have nearly 400 plans stored in X-Mas wrapping plastic containers! If you want further info I can provide...such as plan number, origin and even the article which appeared in RCM. If you can, give me a holler....love to gab with you on the MT.

Regards,
Ron

[rcers]

Ron - happy to help shoot me a PM or just ask away here in the thread!

MIke

[mudduck]

Hi RCERS

I am a retired supervisor who worked 42 years in the automotive business. I am looking at your thread regarding the Mini-Telemaster as I have purchased one a while back. I also believe I have the plan for the "Q-TEE" in my basement; I have nearly 400 plans stored in X-Mas wrapping plastic containers! If you want further info I can provide...such as plan number, origin and even the article which appeared in RCM. If you can, give me a holler....love to gab with you on the MT.

Regards,
Ron

Ron - happy to help shoot me a PM or just ask away here in the thread!

MIke


Hi RCERS,

I looked up the Q-Tee plan that I have; it is plan no. 625 and it appeared in the Jan 1976 Issue of RCM. Unfortunately, I don't have a copy of the magazine, but I have the constructon text (six pages of very small text) which accompanied the drawing. Just wanted to let you know.

Ron:tc:

[Craig]

I just picked me up a Mini Telemaster yesterday. :) I have about 3 hours into the build so far and have the fusalage almost complete as well as the tail assembly finished up. I am hoping to finish up the wing tonight. So far it has been a pretty straight forward build.

My question is about what motor/ battery combo to use. I already have a few motors on hand that I may try but not sure which would be the best choice. I am trying to keep things a light as posible. I want this one to be for just lazy relaxing flying. After I finish this one I will probably scratch build a second one with an aileron wing. Although I do have a Dandy wing form and old crashed plane of mine. Not sure how it would fit om the Mini Fuse though.

Ok so the motors I have to choose from are:

Bm- 2408-21, Custom Cdr single stator, Custom CDR Double Stator, and my last choice is a Himax 2015/4100. I would like to avoid the Himax and stay away from geared motor if possible but would use it if it is the best option.

The batteries I have are TP 3S 2100 and a couple of E Max 3S 2100's. I have 4 Don's RC 3S 1350 15C pack that I would like to use if possible in the plane as well.

I just don't have a great deal of knowledge when it comes to the right motor/ battery combo for planes.

Thanks

[rcers]

Craig any 100w motor that will spin a 8-10" prop will be perfect for the Telemaster.

The Custom CDR Double would likely be my choice - with the lighter 3s 1350 packs.

Mike

[Craig]

Thanks for the info. I was think the double would be the best option as well.

Also in thinking about the wing- I don't think my Dandy wing is going to fit the Mini Fuse. So I am thinking I may as well add the Ailerons to this one anyway. Did you leave the dihedral in in the wings as called for on the plans or did you take out some of the dihedral?

[Craig]

I am nearly finished with framing up my Telemaster. It has been a pretty simple build other than I have not had a whole lot of time to spend on it. I am remodeling my basement so that has taken up a lot of my modeling time. I have stuck to the plans except for the wing. I am adding ailerons to the plane. The only thing I am debating on now is whether to do 2 servos in the wing or a single centered servo. I can see advantages to each.

Next up is choosing a color scheme. I want to go a bit different with this one. I will post some pictures soon of my plane.

I decided to order a new motor for it as well.

I went with the this one.
http://www.planeinsanerc.com/images/ka20-20lweb.JPG

KA20-20L

Dimentions: 28x32mm
Rating: 1050kv
Battery Config: 3 Lipo Cells
Shaft: 3.175mm
Weight: 56gr
Operating Current: 6-15A
Max Current: 19A
Prop: 9x6

[mudduck]

Hello Craig,
I also have a Mini Telemaster Kit but have not yet started building; I will get it going sometime next month or even December.
I'm looking at your motor and wondering where you pruchased it. I haven't heard of a KA20-20L. Is it compatable with an AXI or Atlas or the ones that Tower Hobbies offer?

Regards,
Ron

[Craig]

I am getting it here- http://www.planeinsanerc.com/motors.html

You can also get it here: http://donsrc.com/cart/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=40

In fact a lot of places carry the motor. I have no clue how it compares to AXI motors though.

[mudduck]

Craig, Thanks for the addresses. It looks like a good choice for the Mini Tee. I'm presently working on a Miss Stik Jr. from Hobby-Lobby. I'm at the point ready to cover. It runs on a 300 brushed motor with a finished weight of around 12 Oz's. I haven't built a stick plane in quite a while. I don't build fast but it is a fun project.

Ron

[w5kfg]

Bill B

[w5kfg]

The instructions say to cut 14pc 1/8x1/4 forward braces using the bottom lg block as a guage, The side view plans don't show 14 side braces. Am i missing something here
Bill

[velojet]

The instructions say to cut 14pc 1/8x1/4 forward braces using the bottom lg block as a guage, The side view plans don't show 14 side braces. Am i missing something here
BillNo, their position is not as clear on the plans as it could be. It's actually forward of the top edge of the sheet sidewalls, so as to maintain a constant fuselage width from the nose to the end of the sidewalls.

I made a scan of the plan where I've numbered the 14 positions. You can see my annotated scan plus a photo from my build showing the braces in their places in this posting on RC Groups (http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?p=8695827#post8695827).

John

[Izaak]

Hi: Well due to the snow falling almost every day of December, I have been inside my hobby room building my first KIT model, the Mini Telemaster. I have built 3 ARF Senior Telemaster 8ft. Wing span and ONE 12ft. ARF Telemaster. I use the 12ft. Wing span TM for training and taking Videos for the Forest Service. The Telemaster is without a doubt one of the most stable and consistent RC model planes I have ever flown.
If you are a first time builder of the Mini Telemaster might I suggest you go to Hobby Lobby and download the instruction manual for the " ARF Mini Telemaster"? The instructions that come with the Mini Kit are very lacking in photos but the ARF version will give you a lot of photos and insight into what the poor mini plans lack. I would not have been able to complete the kit without reading and seeing photos of the Mini on this forum. A million thanks to all that have contributed there impute to the Mini Telemaster build forum.
Thank You
Izzak:)

[rcers]

Issak - it looks great! Nothing flies like a Telemaster.... :)

[velojet]

... Mini next to 8ft. Could not get my 12ft. Wingspan Telemaster in next to these two.
As a park flyer, my Mini Telemaster has always seemed reasonably large to me. Now I understand why it's called 'Mini'.