54 Inch "Comet" Piper Cub

[mmartin55]

I've just proposed an article to Frank Fanelli at Flying Models to write an article for the magazine with newly drawn plans for the 54" Piper J3 that Comet never did.

This model will be based exactly on the structural engineering of the Comet 54 inchers and use the exact same wing ribs as the Taylorcraft, with the ailerons already cut out for wire hinging and the tails with two part fixed/moving spars for similar hinging.

To me this is the ideal set up for rubber powered freeflight purity that converts easily to RC electric without too much fuss. Plus I would have been excited to learn that Comet produced a kit in this size but alas, I think I will have to create it.

Would you guys care to give me some feedback on whether you think there would be any interest in a simple and quick to build lightly loaded and classic constructed Cub like this.

As a side, I would add the fuselage truss diagonals and both L4 and J3 window framing details in scale position and outlines. I would alter the aft upper fuselage deck framing for simpler build as Comet did with theirs. Also I have a 1:8 Cub cowl already tooled for vacuum forming (from our Schweizer SA 1-30 kit) that can be offered along with choice of decals in the full e-version of this kit too.

Thanks for your ideas,

Tom

[E-Challenged]

Pat Tritle just finished a 54" Aeronca Chief and somebody else is building a 54" Taylorcraft inspired by Comet models. I have a 7 year old electric Comet Aeronca Chief. Some of the folks on RC Groups, E-Zone, Scale Electric Forum are also talking about recreating Comet kits as very light weight slow flying scale electric R/C models. There is probably room for one more J-3, better yet, less modeled Super Cubs.

[mmartin55]

I've got the drawings of the three view from my blueprint complete now. Even finished the parts for the tails, complete and ready to build. I did a check of the Comet Taylorcraft ribs and they are a perfect fit at this scale and span. I didn't need to increase the chord or scale them in any way in order to use them.

All I need to do to start cutting kits is count the ribs and secondary ribs in the Cub wing and make sure I have enough from the T-Craft parts or increase the number and layout more cutter sheets. Then I will draw the six or seven formers to make up the nose and the turtle deck and I should be able to cut one and start building.

Tom

[Dereck]

Hi Tom
There's a couple of guys in mid-Delaware who blew up many of the Comet WW2 fighters to around 54" span - usually around twice full size! How - easy really, one is a professional draftsman with the biggest programable copier I've ever seen in his home office.

They built these models literally right off the blown up plans - which gives a lot of space between not much balsa. All of them - I recall a Hellcat and Me109, possibly a Zero and some others - were flown on Astro 020 geared BLs running off 10 x CP1300 cells and were basically one-piece models with a battery hatch aft of the cowling, battery coming out through the side of the fus.

I got to fly a Hellcat - no sweat handlaunch, flew great on aileron and ele controls, with throttle of course.

Your big Comets should be great cruising round models. Don't beef them up too much, stick with light weight and low wing loadings and don't add a lot of scale detail unless it weighs next to nothing. If you follow how the indoor scale guys build, you'll know that you can have a very atmospheric model with very light weight. All the detailing is more suggestion than much else.

I'd do the Super Cub, unless you really like dummy cylinder heads - in which case I'd have a go at a J2 or thereabouts. Nothing against J3s - I've had three - but a change would be nice :)

How's about some prototypes from that era, but with the wing on the bottom? I had a 60" Longster Wimpy some years ago, great in the air, real fun to fly and watch, bit hefty by your standards though, at 50oz RTF with 8 round jugs and a geared 600 ferrite... Basically a scaled up rubber model plan - one of Walt Mooney's, IIRC.

Now I'd use a much smaller outrunner and half the battery weight.

Good luck with your project

Regards

Dereck

[mmartin55]

Thanks Dereck,

The J3 is simply for me and to do one truly in scale proportion and without any compromise. Plus we will sell enough of them to make it worthwhile since it will be quite a bit lighter and simpler to build than the overengineered laser kits others are producing... more of a nostalgia build with the stick-built truss fuselage.

My goal after that one is to produce the Clipper, Pacer and Vagabond as a series with decals etc. Those are even less modeled than the Super Cub.

Tom

[WWI Ace]

What about the Pawnees?!!! Steve

[mmartin55]

Steve, didn't you see my post on the other thread. I put up a set of 38.7" span Pawnee Brave plans for you guys to look at. Here is the link: http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=57920&d=1204343354. If one of you is hot to build it I'll cut a kit for you. Don't know the price yet till we cut one but based upon the other kits of this size I'd say they would be in the $70 range with included vacuum formed cowl and canopy, wire and wheels.

Tom

[E-Challenged]

My much revered 54" Comet Aeronca Chief crashed after some 8 years of constant flying due to the right wing strut clevis becoming detached from the fuselage otherwise it probably would have flown many more years.
Wings plugged into the fuselage with hooks and rubber bands. Struts with clevises allowed adjustment of dihedral and wash-out Would recommend a single piece wing with functional struts, neater and less fuss.Last power system was a Hobby Lobby Esskay 400XT BL outrunner with 9x5 GWS direct drive prop and TP 1320 3S or 2200 3S lipo, CC P-25. Plenty of power and 20 -30 minute duration. I designed a rather messy looking velcro landing gear cover /wheel pant attachment that functioned well. Cowl was formed from 1/4" balsa sheet with removable top hatch and nosebowl for access to motor. I used 1/8" hardwood for tail surfaces mimicking scale welded tube structure. Taill wheel leg attached to rudder. I did not use ailerons, just two HS-55's for rudder and elevator. These models do most turning with rudder. If you use ailerons, lots of rudder is needed. The model was good at thermalling. 40 minute flights were not uncommon with prop ticking over.