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Bluesky
10-09-2005, 12:13 AM
I lucked out and recently won a Parkzone Typhoon 3D RTF at my club raffle but am fairly new to electrics. I flew it today for the first time and the kit 1000 mah NiMh battery leaves room for improvement.

My question is that the Typhoon manual recommends a Thunder Power 2100 mah 3-cell (11.1V) LiPo battery for aerobatics but the 15C continuous rating for this battery is 31.5 amp and the 20C burst rating is 42 amps. The kit ESC in the Typhoon is only rated at 20 amps continuous and 25 amps peak. It sounds to me like this is asking for a burned out ESC but I don't know much about electrics.

Has anybody tried this ESC with the recommmended LiPo battery? I sent an e-mail to Parkzone (Horizon Hobby) with the same question but haven't had a reply yet.

Any help would be appreciated.

Bluesky

Wolfewind
10-09-2005, 03:51 PM
You are better off having a battery that is capable of a higher amp draw than the system requires. The battery will run cooler. The amp draw that is pulled down by the power system will be affected by the battery voltage, the motor, and the prop. The 'C" rating of the battery has no effect so long as it exceeds the amp draw requirements of the system.
.

Bluesky
10-09-2005, 05:41 PM
Thanks Wolfewind,
That makes sense. I'll get the recommended LiPo battery.

Bluesky

LuckyArmpit
10-21-2005, 03:28 AM
Blue....watch out for the price on the thunder lipos!!!! Your looking at around $70 or more for just one pack. And, your gonna have to get a bonafide/dedicated lipo charger. When charging the 3S pack, set the voltage at 11.1 volts and the amps at 2100 mah for the thunder.
Your gonna really like lipos!!!! I do but the price of them kills me!!!

Dave...

AEAJR
10-21-2005, 04:48 PM
Any lipo pack that can handle 25 or more continous amps will be fine in that plane if they fit. It will probably only pull about 18 amps.

Parkzone recommends that pack because it is the right shape and the right weight to fit the plane and keep it balanced, according to their instructions.

If you feel brave, you can try other brands.

littlephoenix
01-31-2008, 12:16 PM
My question is, ( as i dont know much abotu batteries and all the lingo you guys mention ) in layman's term, the 3s 2100 parkzone mentions in the manual, can i use the charger that came with the syphoon 3D? If so, what is the charge amp i need to set? as the regular 9cell that comes with the typhoon 3d which is a 1000mAh 10.8V Ni-MHis said to set at 1.4amps, what will i need to set the 2100 3S at? the charge max is 1.8amps, anyone?

I see that it says in the manual "NEVER charge a Li-Po battery pack with the included DC peak charger"
So what charge would i need to purchase?

thanks

M.T.
01-31-2008, 03:10 PM
You will need a dedicated Li-po charger.

I recently bought a 'Lipromaster 5' which seems identical to the 'Imax B5' for £50 in the UK..... it is foolproof (not that I consider myself a fool ;-)) as it refuses to charge unless it recognises the type of cell you are trying to charge.
It will also charge Nimh/Nicad/Lead acid, etc.

littlephoenix
01-31-2008, 09:54 PM
can i charge the 3S 2100 with the Celectra 1-3 Cell LiPo DC Charger by E-flite ?
here is the link to it http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=EFLC3005

please let me know, thank you all

M.T.
02-01-2008, 10:49 AM
Yes, that will be fine.... although I personally like a charger to have a digital read-out, so I can see what is going on!

You will need a power supply for the charger (or a 12v car battery).

littlephoenix
02-01-2008, 11:08 AM
Yes, that will be fine.... although I personally like a charger to have a digital read-out, so I can see what is going on!

You will need a power supply for the charger (or a 12v car battery).


Thank you, yes i will use the 12v car outlet, as i do with my other charger, thanks for the help again

gzsfrk
02-01-2008, 04:28 PM
I frequently see talk about car chargers for LiPos. Is that really worthwhile? Do LiPos charge fast enough to make it worth my time to have a car charger if I'm only typically at the field for an hour?

My NiMH batts typically charge for around 3 hours via wall-block before they're "hot".

clockworks
02-01-2008, 09:12 PM
If you charge the battery at the recommended 1C (that is, 1 amp for a 1000mah battery, 2 amps for a 2000mah battery, etc.), it will charge in an hour.
Decent chargers don't seem to heat up LiPos too much - mine come off at barely above room temperature. I've got the same charger as M.T. (Lipro 5). It ramps up the current at the start of the cycle, then ramps it down again at the end, balancing as it charges.

A decent peak detection charger will do a similar thing with Nicad and NiMh cells, although they do get a bit warmer - around 15 degrees C above ambient in my case.

Wall wart chargers don't normally monitor the state of the battery, so just keep piling on the current. The battery then gets quite hot. This can damage the cells.
A peak detection charger monitors the battery voltage. When the voltage starts to drop (which is what happens when a NiCad or NiMh is fully charged), they stop charging.

The only wall wart charger that I'd consider using is a trickle charger designed for use with Tx or Rx packs. These are normally OK for overnight charging. For flight packs, I'd always use a peak detection or proper LiPo charger. It'll cost you a few pounds/dollars up front to buy one, but you cells will last longer, so it's cheaper in the long run.

M.T.
02-01-2008, 09:51 PM
If you charge the battery at the recommended 1C (that is, 1 amp for a 1000mah battery, 2 amps for a 2000mah battery, etc.), it will charge in an hour.
Decent chargers don't seem to heat up LiPos too much - mine come off at barely above room temperature. I've got the same charger as M.T. (Lipro 5). It ramps up the current at the start of the cycle, then ramps it down again at the end, balancing as it charges.

A decent peak detection charger will do a similar thing with Nicad and NiMh cells, although they do get a bit warmer - around 15 degrees C above ambient in my case.

Wall wart chargers don't normally monitor the state of the battery, so just keep piling on the current. The battery then gets quite hot. This can damage the cells.
A peak detection charger monitors the battery voltage. When the voltage starts to drop (which is what happens when a NiCad or NiMh is fully charged), they stop charging.

The only wall wart charger that I'd consider using is a trickle charger designed for use with Tx or Rx packs. These are normally OK for overnight charging. For flight packs, I'd always use a peak detection or proper LiPo charger. It'll cost you a few pounds/dollars up front to buy one, but you cells will last longer, so it's cheaper in the long run.


I agree.... Plus a decent quality charger is MUCH safer as it shouldn't overcharge the cells (Risking an explosion and/or fire) if set-up correctly (Usually 1C).

littlephoenix
02-01-2008, 10:37 PM
ok thank you again for the info, so in that case, would this be a good charger http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Imax-B5-lipo-battery-Charger-NiMh-Nicd-RC-car-plane_W0QQitemZ130193878801QQihZ003QQcategoryZ3405 6QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

And would i be able to use this for all my lipo batts? I guess im trying to purchase the thunder tiger 3S 11.1V 2100mAh Li-Po and need a good charger, and these battery lingo is just so hard to understand, all this mAh and V and cell talk and how long to charge at what rate etc., im really not a battery person, so how would i learn more about batteries in general? i mean theImax B5 charger seems to complex to operate.......

M.T.
02-02-2008, 12:37 AM
ok thank you again for the info, so in that case, would this be a good charger http://cgi.ebay.com/New-Imax-B5-lipo-battery-Charger-NiMh-Nicd-RC-car-plane_W0QQitemZ130193878801QQihZ003QQcategoryZ3405 6QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

And would i be able to use this for all my lipo batts? I guess im trying to purchase the thunder tiger 3S 11.1V 2100mAh Li-Po and need a good charger, and these battery lingo is just so hard to understand, all this mAh and V and cell talk and how long to charge at what rate etc., im really not a battery person, so how would i learn more about batteries in general? i mean theImax B5 charger seems to complex to operate.......

Hi,

The Imax charger is the same as the one I have, it is just sold under a different name.... good price aswell, it is double here in the UK!

I am fairly sure the Imax will do what ever you need it to.
It's not as complicated as it seems.

If you buy one and get stuck with how to use it, let me know and I'll do my best to help.

p.s. All the info you need about batteries should be on this great site somewhere.
If you can't find the info you need, just put up a post..... This is the place to learn!

clockworks
02-02-2008, 08:06 AM
It's more complex than a wall wart, but pretty simple really.

You don't need to worry about how long to charge for using the charger you linked to - it takes care of the timing by shutting off automatically once the battery is charged.

All you need to know is:

What type of battery am I trying to charge?
What is the rated voltage of the battery I'm going to charge?
What charge current am I going to use?

The first 2 are usually printed on the pack's label, so no problem there.
The charge current is easily worked out - just divide the mah rating of the pack by 1000. So, your 2100mah pack would be charged at 2.1 amps.

CFIT
02-03-2008, 01:22 AM
I found the WOW-RC Lipos to be great performing batteries at a fair price, (fly with them in the Slow Stick and E-starter and now my Typhoon 3D). I am using this 2200mah Lipo in my Typhoon 3D, fits PERFECT and runs great and sells for only $42...

2200 mah 11.1v Lipo... Heads_Up_RC (http://cgi.ebay.com/Lipo-Battery-11-1v-2200mah-12C-26-amp-Lithium-Polymer_W0QQitemZ220185971299QQihZ012QQcategoryZ34 056QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem)

littlephoenix
02-05-2008, 05:39 AM
I found the WOW-RC Lipos to be great performing batteries at a fair price, (fly with them in the Slow Stick and E-starter and now my Typhoon 3D). I am using this 2200mah Lipo in my Typhoon 3D, fits PERFECT and runs great and sells for only $42...

2200 mah 11.1v Lipo... Heads_Up_RC (http://cgi.ebay.com/Lipo-Battery-11-1v-2200mah-12C-26-amp-Lithium-Polymer_W0QQitemZ220185971299QQihZ012QQcategoryZ34 056QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem)

thanks again for all the help, ok i see the WOW-RC Lipos is pretty cheap, well beats the thunder tigers price of 70 or so, so ill get that, but my question is, will the thunder tiger brand last longer then the WOW-RC Lipos?

Now you say your using a 2200 for your typhoon 3D, but in the manual it says to use a 2100, will a 2200 be to strong for the brushless motor, and if its safe, why did they say to use a 2100?

Thank you everyone again for the help.

littlephoenix
02-12-2008, 04:17 AM
I found the WOW-RC Lipos to be great performing batteries at a fair price, (fly with them in the Slow Stick and E-starter and now my Typhoon 3D). I am using this 2200mah Lipo in my Typhoon 3D, fits PERFECT and runs great and sells for only $42...

2200 mah 11.1v Lipo... Heads_Up_RC (http://cgi.ebay.com/Lipo-Battery-11-1v-2200mah-12C-26-amp-Lithium-Polymer_W0QQitemZ220185971299QQihZ012QQcategoryZ34 056QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItem)

Ok so i took your word and purchased the wow-rc 2200mah lipo, as clockworks mentioned, i should charge the 2200 at 2.2 amps. is this correct? I divided the mah by 1000. also how do i change the connection so it fits my typhoon 3D? thanks again

CFIT
02-12-2008, 05:08 AM
Ok so i took your word and purchased the wow-rc 2200mah lipo, as clockworks mentioned, i should charge the 2200 at 2.2 amps. is this correct? I divided the mah by 1000. also how do i change the connection so it fits my typhoon 3D? thanks again

Charge at 2.2 amps is safe, and the “recommended” max, i.e. 1c. I charge mine at 2.0 amps, it doesn’t even get warm.

As for the connection, I made my own. I used a Deans Ultra for the battery, (read below for more about the DEANS), and a Mini Tamiya Male connector. (Two Pin A2 male from BP hobbies) http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id=A0320181&pid=T471251

Here is my Typhoon WOW Lipo connector;

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b81/BRAAPZ/R-C/TyphoonconnectorMedium.jpg


Do yourself a favor. The “T” plug connector that comes on the WOW battery is not a true “DEANS” brand, it is a knock off. That in itself is not too big of a deal, so long as you find the matching male knock off. What is a big deal is that “T” plug connectors typically only play well together electrically, and sometimes mechanically speaking, within the “same” brand. I have no idea which knock off “T” connector is on the WOW batteries, but I finally changed all my WOW batteries, ESC, and charge connectors to actual “DEANS” Ultra connectors, and have had no troubles since. Previously, I was having troubles with electrical connections, even while charging, I found I wasn’t alone. Switched to the “DEANS” brand and have not had any troubles since.

Here are the “deans” Ultra in male/female sets…

http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id=A0320181&pid=U180617


Good luck and have fun,
Paul

littlephoenix
02-12-2008, 07:41 AM
thanks for all the helpful info Paul, i went ahead and ordered the Two Pin A2 and the DEANS connectors, ill replace the one that came with the bat and give her a shot and repost with outcome,
thanks again :)

littlephoenix
02-19-2008, 10:44 AM
hello everyone,
i have another question, i am reading that i might need a balancer, is this true? Or will my charger IMAX B5 do the balancing?

Thank you

M.T.
02-19-2008, 10:52 AM
Hi,

The Imax B5 will take care of the balancing for you.

Just hook up the main leads AND the balance lead, tell the charger to 'balance charge'... and off you go.

You can even read the 'state of play' as the Imax does it's stuff.

littlephoenix
02-19-2008, 09:56 PM
Hi,

The Imax B5 will take care of the balancing for you.

Just hook up the main leads AND the balance lead, tell the charger to 'balance charge'... and off you go.

You can even read the 'state of play' as the Imax does it's stuff.

great, thanks for that info, im still waiting for the imax to arrive so well see what happens.

ministeve2003
02-20-2008, 09:46 PM
Here is my Typhoon WOW Lipo connector;

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b81/BRAAPZ/R-C/TyphoonconnectorMedium.jpg




oh no... please tell me your not still using the mini-tamiya connectors... they like to become disconnected way too easy... You'll eventally loose a plane with those like I did... just pull the esc out and solder deans on it... You'll be much safer...
SK

CFIT
02-20-2008, 10:25 PM
oh no... please tell me your not still using the mini-tamiya connectors... they like to become disconnected way too easy... You'll eventally loose a plane with those like I did... just pull the esc out and solder deans on it... You'll be much safer...
SK

Thank you Steve. I will be sure to eliminate the Tamiya connector.

Being as I retired the Typhoon for reasons other than electric glitch, (read C.F.I.T.) I robbed the electrics out of it for a future scratch built project. I will be throwing that connector away now and soldering a DEANS ULTRA on the ESC per your advice.

Thank you for the heads up. Hopefully littlephoenix isnít too late in reading thisÖ :<:

littlephoenix
02-21-2008, 02:52 AM
awesome thanks again for the great advice, i was actually going to ask you why we even need the Tamiya connector, but i guess we dont so great, i did purchase a hand full of DEANS for the typhoon and also a new glider im building from scratch and will use the DEANS so goood stuff, thanks for all the help, you guys are great.
im sure ill be back with more questions as im getting more into RC birds.

ministeve2003
02-21-2008, 04:40 PM
you guys are welcome about the tamiya connectors... I just wish someone had told me about them aways back before I crashed a Hobbyzone P51 because of them...
SK

littlephoenix
02-22-2008, 03:01 AM
you guys are welcome about the tamiya connectors... I just wish someone had told me about them aways back before I crashed a Hobbyzone P51 because of them...
SK

awww bummer, that sucked i bet, so are these DEAN connectors just about the best in the market when it comes to RC hobby? They must be im assuming if lipos come with them no?

gzsfrk
02-22-2008, 03:06 AM
awww bummer, that sucked i bet, so are these DEAN connectors just about the best in the market when it comes to RC hobby? They must be im assuming if lipos come with them no?

Some LiPos come with Deans, some come with other connectors; just depends on the brand, mainly.

A few people around here knock Deans Ultras, particularly the cheap knock-off ones (and with good reason, so I hear). But the generally accepted view by the vets here on WF is that you use Deans for Battery to ESC connections, and bullet connectors from ESC to motor.

littlephoenix
02-22-2008, 04:23 AM
Some LiPos come with Deans, some come with other connectors; just depends on the brand, mainly.

A few people around here knock Deans Ultras, particularly the cheap knock-off ones (and with good reason, so I hear). But the generally accepted view by the vets here on WF is that you use Deans for Battery to ESC connections, and bullet connectors from ESC to motor.

ya bullet connectors are easier to handle, push pull etc. but for what i have read deans connectors are safer, well i just finished soldering both tips from ESC and took knockoff from bat and deane'd well see how she runs as soon as the rain stops
now as for the iMAX B5, which i just received last night, it did not come with an AC adapter, can i just use my car battery to connect to the crocodile ends
http://aviamodels.ru/images/imaxb5s.jpg

jasmine2501
02-22-2008, 05:52 AM
thanks again for all the help, ok i see the WOW-RC Lipos is pretty cheap, well beats the thunder tigers price of 70 or so, so ill get that, but my question is, will the thunder tiger brand last longer then the WOW-RC Lipos?

Now you say your using a 2200 for your typhoon 3D, but in the manual it says to use a 2100, will a 2200 be to strong for the brushless motor, and if its safe, why did they say to use a 2100?

Thank you everyone again for the help.
Thunder Power lipos are top quality, but I don't think they last much longer than any other type. The longevity of your batteries depends on how hard you push them and how slowly you charge them. Charging them fast and draining them fast will make them wear out sooner.

OK now, here's the low-down on batteries, and this will answer your question about whether the 2200 is "too powerful" (it's not)...

You need to understand the difference between capacity and voltage. The capacity of the battery is measured in milli-amp-hours, and it determines how long the battery can run before it's drained to its minimum safe voltage.

The voltage of lipo batteries is affected by how many cells are in the pack. 3-cell Lipos give out the same voltage, regardless of the capacity. My 730 mAh packs have the same voltage as my 2200 mAh packs, but the 2200 will last a lot longer if the amperage of the motor is the same. The 2200 is also a lot heavier, which is why I use those on big, high-powered planes, and use 730 and 900 size on little planes. They are all 3-cell Lipos though, so they all have the same voltage.

The voltage given above was incorrect. 11.1 volts is only half-charged. Lipos at full charge have 4.2 volts per cell, so a 3-cell Lipo will have 12.6 volts at full charge, and it will drain safely to about 9.6... maybe a little lower, but don't push it. Most ESCs have a LVC (Low-Voltage Cutoff) to prevent you from draining your Lipo too low.

The capacity of the battery affects how much amperage it can safely deliver. Lipo packs will have an amperage rating given as a function of the capacity, usually around 20C for bigger packs or better quality packs. Most packs have the actual max amperage marked on them (See photos), but if not, you take the capacity and drop the 'hours' unit and multiply by the rating number. So, 2200 milli-amp-hours, drop the hours unit, leaves you with 2200 milli-amps, or 2.2 amps. If the rating is 20C, the maximum current that battery can safely deliver is 20x2.2 amps, or 44 amps.

Be very careful that you understand how these units work. Running a battery at less than the rated amperage is required, and running it at much less than the rating will extend the life of the battery. The amperage that your plane will draw is determine by the battery voltage (not capacity), the specification of the motor, and the propeller you choose. The capacity does not determine the amperage you will get, but it does determine if the battery will run safely or not.

For example, my Brio pulls 28 amps (I think) on 3-cell Lipo. I run 2200 packs in there, which can handle 44 amps, so I'm well within the safe range for that battery. However, if I popped one of my little 730 batteries in there, it would still pull 28 amps, because the voltage, motor, and prop are still the same. 28 amps would fry the little battery though, and it will be happy to explode on me... it would not limit the amperage, but it would puff up and blow almost guaranteed.

On your charger, you can hook it to any 12V DC power source. I use a wall adapter that puts out 12V DC, and I charge the batteries at home in the fireplace. You can also use a car battery, and some club fields have battery charging stations which may be solar powered or some other method (see 3rd photo).

In order to make sure you don't exceed the max amperage of the battery and ESC, you can perform testing, as in this video. In your case, since the plane is RTF and recommended for 3-cell Lipo, you are probably fine, but when you start making your own power systems, or switching props and experimenting, you need to do testing like in the video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ieNBppbgCvM

gzsfrk
02-22-2008, 05:53 AM
now as for the iMAX B5, which i just received last night, it did not come with an AC adapter, can i just use my car battery to connect to the crocodile ends


Yep, that's one way. You could also purchase a power supply like this one (http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=6256), or build your own using an old computer power supply as described here (http://www.wikihow.com/Convert-a-Computer-ATX-Power-Supply-to-a-Lab-Power-Supply).

I've got an IMax B6 on the way that will hopefully be here by the end of the month. Be sure to post back what your experiences are with the B5, and we can maybe compare notes. :)

littlephoenix
02-22-2008, 10:45 AM
Thunder Power lipos are top quality, but I don't think they last much longer than any other type. The longevity of your batteries depends on how hard you push them and how slowly you charge them. Charging them fast and draining them fast will make them wear out sooner.

OK now, here's the low-down on batteries, and this will answer your question about whether the 2200 is "too powerful" (it's not)...

You need to understand the difference between capacity and voltage. The capacity of the battery is measured in milli-amp-hours, and it determines how long the battery can run before it's drained to its minimum safe voltage.

The voltage of lipo batteries is affected by how many cells are in the pack. 3-cell Lipos give out the same voltage, regardless of the capacity. My 730 mAh packs have the same voltage as my 2200 mAh packs, but the 2200 will last a lot longer if the amperage of the motor is the same. The 2200 is also a lot heavier, which is why I use those on big, high-powered planes, and use 730 and 900 size on little planes. They are all 3-cell Lipos though, so they all have the same voltage.

The voltage given above was incorrect. 11.1 volts is only half-charged. Lipos at full charge have 4.2 volts per cell, so a 3-cell Lipo will have 12.6 volts at full charge, and it will drain safely to about 9.6... maybe a little lower, but don't push it. Most ESCs have a LVC (Low-Voltage Cutoff) to prevent you from draining your Lipo too low.

The capacity of the battery affects how much amperage it can safely deliver. Lipo packs will have an amperage rating given as a function of the capacity, usually around 20C for bigger packs or better quality packs. Most packs have the actual max amperage marked on them (See photos), but if not, you take the capacity and drop the 'hours' unit and multiply by the rating number. So, 2200 milli-amp-hours, drop the hours unit, leaves you with 2200 milli-amps, or 2.2 amps. If the rating is 20C, the maximum current that battery can safely deliver is 20x2.2 amps, or 44 amps.

Be very careful that you understand how these units work. Running a battery at less than the rated amperage is required, and running it at much less than the rating will extend the life of the battery. The amperage that your plane will draw is determine by the battery voltage (not capacity), the specification of the motor, and the propeller you choose. The capacity does not determine the amperage you will get, but it does determine if the battery will run safely or not.

For example, my Brio pulls 28 amps (I think) on 3-cell Lipo. I run 2200 packs in there, which can handle 44 amps, so I'm well within the safe range for that battery. However, if I popped one of my little 730 batteries in there, it would still pull 28 amps, because the voltage, motor, and prop are still the same. 28 amps would fry the little battery though, and it will be happy to explode on me... it would not limit the amperage, but it would puff up and blow almost guaranteed.

On your charger, you can hook it to any 12V DC power source. I use a wall adapter that puts out 12V DC, and I charge the batteries at home in the fireplace. You can also use a car battery, and some club fields have battery charging stations which may be solar powered or some other method (see 3rd photo).

In order to make sure you don't exceed the max amperage of the battery and ESC, you can perform testing, as in this video. In your case, since the plane is RTF and recommended for 3-cell Lipo, you are probably fine, but when you start making your own power systems, or switching props and experimenting, you need to do testing like in the video.

ieNBppbgCvM

wow i think with your explanation, i understand batteries now, thank you so much for taking the time, i think it will be safe if i use an AC adapter rather then a car battery, just seems like the right thing to do, and as for the method gzsfrk brought up, it just seems way to complicated although i can tackle it if i want, it would be much faster to just purchase an adapter , can i just get this and use this for my iMax B5
http://cgi.ebay.com/60-Watt-12V-5A-AC-Power-Adapter_W0QQitemZ140207854021QQihZ004QQcategoryZ79 846QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

and here is the specs for the Imax B5 adapter


Model: ADP-60WB
Input: 100-240V, 50/60Hz
Output: 12V 5A
http://www.whotoys.com/images/xxx/ADP60/1.jpg

seems as though its the right specs, but will the female end fit?

again thanks for all the help, greatly appreciated

littlephoenix
02-22-2008, 10:46 AM
Yep, that's one way. You could also purchase a power supply like this one (http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=6256), or build your own using an old computer power supply as described here (http://www.wikihow.com/Convert-a-Computer-ATX-Power-Supply-to-a-Lab-Power-Supply).

I've got an IMax B6 on the way that will hopefully be here by the end of the month. Be sure to post back what your experiences are with the B5, and we can maybe compare notes. :)

I will let you know for sure how things go with the B5, actually i should of gotten the B6 instead, but o well, let me get an adapter and see how things run. thanks

gzsfrk
02-22-2008, 09:37 PM
ieNBppbgCvM

Just out of curiosity, why don't the YouTube tags seem to be working today?

gzsfrk
02-22-2008, 09:40 PM
seems as though its the right specs, but will the female end fit?

Look like it will fit. But if not, go pick up the right size end at Radio Shack, chop off the existing one, and wire the new one in. Piece of cake. :)

jasmine2501
02-23-2008, 03:10 AM
Just out of curiosity, why don't the YouTube tags seem to be working today?

I don't know... they have been removed from the toolbar. I changed it to a link in my post.