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View Full Version : Guillow's SE5 Biplane Kit Conversion


Saucerguy2
04-29-2007, 12:45 PM
Ok, the moderators and powers that be are kind of nudging me along to show this build log, well, at least it seems that way with how the threads are shown in the WWI area. Correct me if I'm wrong in this area, your reward is now forthcoming.

I picked up this kit at the LHS, I think he priced it down to get me out of their hair for a short time, or just to unload it, or just to get us die hard builders that frequent it to check out his kit section from time to time looking for a bargain and perhaps taking the plung out of impulse to buy what's appealing at the moment. I don't know if he thinks that far into it, it just feels that way since this is a lazer cut, rather new to the market kit that normally sells for 35-40.00 retail priced down to 16.00 and it was the only one he had in stock.

It's small, 24" wingspan begs for lightweight gear, but I went with what I typically have on hand which can handle something twice as large which is going to make this one very nimble, be it not wanting to fly slow so I can forget about the stock landing gear, struts and general leaving it in it's intended free flight engineering. So far, it's a tank, yet remains very light since I placed the extra's tactfully to handle the e-flight gear.

Lipo intended is a 3 cell, 11.1, 1000 mah
Brushless motor, TP2409_12D (http://www.unitedhobbies.com/UNITEDHOBBIES/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=2046)
ESC, 15 amp,
Prop, 11 X 5.5
Receiver, GWS Pico 6 channel submicro

I mounted the motor mount aft of the leading edge of the fuse to retain the scale appearance, it's going to stay within that area to accomodate the cowl, the esc and pack are a tight fit but I had exactly enough room to fit them in. I had to do alot of surgery to this one due to it's size to accomodate the gear and as stated before, added alot of reinforcement to handle it's interta as well, this should handle a direct nose dive into the ground at full throttle and hanlde little, if any damage at all, this is what balsa/ply/carbon fiber construction is all about gentlemen.

Photo's show start to present status of where I'm at now with it, it's getting very, very close to completion, I'm taking it slowly and am customizing it to my own personal tastes rather then keeping it to scale. I want this to be my regularly flyer rather then sitting on a shelf looking pretty, the 100% scale version would bore me to tears and wouldn't get much air time if I did it that way. When I'm done, it will look scale rigging included, but on the drawing board and in the air, should be quite a handful so should challenge me for a while.

teddiepos10
06-26-2008, 12:13 AM
Hi Im new to Wattflyer... Just got back into building planes... found your article intersting... I just purchased the se5 and was wondering how the plane that you built was doing.... I will likely be doing the same type of build with my se5..

degreen60
06-26-2008, 01:05 AM
Lipo intended is a 3 cell, 11.1, 1000 mah
Brushless motor, TP2409_12D (http://www.unitedhobbies.com/UNITEDHOBBIES/store/comersus_viewItem.asp?idProduct=2046)


I would think this is enough power to just about tear the wings off on WOT. I have one of the Sterling SE5A about 90% built that I am starting to convert to electric R/C. I was thinking more along the lines of 2s Lipo and AX-2306N with an 7X6 prop. I fly an Eflite Jenny on this set up. The Jenny is close to twice the size of the SE5A and will go vertical for about 20 feet before it drops off.

teddiepos10
06-26-2008, 01:28 AM
thank you for the suggestions... however you will have to excuse my ignorance.... I found the motor you listed however, have no idea what a 2s lipo is except that it's a very small battery.... I am new to electric flight.. I only flew glow engines before... aka 10 years ago..

degreen60
06-26-2008, 02:49 AM
Lipos are made up of cells that have a voltage of over 3 volts, full charge is 4.1 volt. 3s means the are 3 cells and it is called 11.1 volts, 2s is only 2 cells and is a 7.4 battery. I fly all my WW1 planes on 2s. I know others fly on 3s but are probably flying a larger plane. By rule of thumb a 2s will turn a larger prop slower than a 3s and not over load the motor. You kind of need to match prop, battery, motor, to plane and how you want it to fly. I just use the trial and guess method till I find what I like. Others with more experance can probably tell you more. I have found I like a little extra power, it makes the take off easyer. Another thing about Lipos, the size is also listed with AH, this is the amount of current you can draw for one hour. Also will have something listed like 20c, this is max current you can draw at any time, you multiply the c times the AH to find the max current. Hope this helps some.

teddiepos10
06-27-2008, 02:08 AM
thank you very much for the info... I will check out some web sites to see who has the lipos i need... hopefully construction will begin next week... I'm currently on a guillows p40 warhawk for pratice building... the plane is almost ready for cover.....