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Magicman
05-16-2007, 03:16 PM
Hello, what is the best method of covering a foam plane, its not a flat foam plane, its got all the physiques of a glow powered model only alot smaller and electric powered. Thanks

NotAnAceYet
05-16-2007, 05:58 PM
Hobby People sells a foam plane - the Simple Stick. I bought one, nice plane - they recommend covering the foam with tape. Comes in many colors. You can make a plane look great with all of the color choices - also makes the foam a lot more durable without adding a lot of weight.

I have also seen foam painted with a spray called H20 - basically a water color spray in a can. Once again, many color choices, but doesn't do anything for added durability.

Have fun!

Larry

UncleBob
05-16-2007, 06:47 PM
I'm still figuring out what works for me. Tape doesn't appeal to me as a solution, I'm trying water based acrylic now, and I've also seen several people using latex, like exterior latex house paint. Apparently it works well in an airbrush after thinning.

I worry that the acrylic won't be flexible enough and the latex might be too soft, but we'll see.

Kosh
05-16-2007, 07:00 PM
Hello, what is the best method of covering a foam plane, its not a flat foam plane, its got all the physiques of a glow powered model only alot smaller and electric powered. Thanks

You can cover foam planes in Econokote, Towercote and Solite fairly easy. Use 2 lite coats of 3M-77 adhesive let dry for 10 minutes and lay on the coating then iron it on at 1/3 heat. Its been holding up well for me and was worth the effort. Its always a good idea to test some on scrap foam first so you get the feel for it. ;-)

matwiyj
05-16-2007, 10:26 PM
I've used fibreglass and wbpu, and have recently switched over to Ultracote. It goes on very easily, looks great and adds plenty of strength to the airframe. Try the Ultracote. I think you'll like it!

Jarod Matwy
Winnipeg, Canada

Joe 1320
05-18-2007, 06:02 PM
Several things can be done. A water based polyurethane by min-wax is a light weight covering, not as durable and heavy as fiberglass but will add strength and rash resistance. you could also just use the fiberglass resin without the cloth. The same goes for epoxy, I've spread it over foam with a brush and let it dry..... the results were pretty good and not too heavy. A heat applied film covering can also be used to strengthen and protect. Still, fiberglass will give the most strength.

constantCrash
05-18-2007, 06:38 PM
Dosn't ultracoat have to high of a shrink temp to go on foam?

I've used fibreglass and wbpu, and have recently switched over to Ultracote. It goes on very easily, looks great and adds plenty of strength to the airframe. Try the Ultracote. I think you'll like it!

Jarod Matwy
Winnipeg, Canada

matwiyj
05-18-2007, 06:44 PM
The Ultracote I used was suggested by the guys at the LHS and it worked great for me. It adheres very well to the foam at a lower temperature than the foam melts at. I did, however, have problems once when the iron was too hot, but the resulting damage was minor; the matrix between the foam balls melted slightly giving it a "rocky road" sort of finish. This was covered by the ultracote and in the end it made no difference to the way it looked or worked.

Jarod Matwy
Winnipeg, canada

UncleBob
05-18-2007, 07:49 PM
I'll be shooting my Stryker in Behr Latex Enamel in the next few days .... $12 a quart.

Saucerguy2
05-19-2007, 01:49 AM
I recently discovered Solite Microlite works very well on foam since it's even lower temp then Ultracoat to adhere and shrink, it's alot alot lighter then Ultracoat. The draw back, it's more delicate to handle and not as durable as Ultracoat or packing tape.

Sky Sharkster
05-19-2007, 11:17 AM
Hello Magicman, Welcome to Wattflyer!
I recently replied to a similar question from Rod (USAPatriot) on Builders Techniques here; http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18843
With suggestions for usage and application tips for the various films available. There's also a link to the table of weights for most covering films, if you know the size (in square inches) of your model you can roughly estimate the final weight.
Hope it helps, Good Luck!
Ron

RacerPaul
06-12-2007, 08:11 PM
I used monokote trim blue and checkerboard graphics on my Formosa...



Which, by the way, I just posted for sale here...http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20774

hehehe

Thanks

Paul

Diesel Dan
06-13-2007, 03:43 PM
I've used dark green Zagi tape,then Nelson-lite for my Funny-Wulf.Some added Utracote grey finished it in a camo effect.The tape adds alot of strength to the wings also.I'm about to install a 230 watt outrunner for this 17 oz. foamy...oughta be wild...!!:Q

Gnascher
06-13-2007, 04:22 PM
I used Hangar-9 Ultracote to cover my GWS floats. They're foam tops with plastic bottoms. Ultracote is "multi-temperature". The lowest temperature (about 220F) activates the glue. Higher temps begin the shrinking process.

I was able to nicely cover the foam portion using the lower temperature. I did then "tighten" it a bit with the lowest temperature at which shrinking begins, but I kept the sealing iron moving fairly quickly. There were no wrinkles before shrinking, but I wanted to add a little strenght through compression by shrinking the film.

There were no ill effects on the foam at either temperature.

Prof100
07-20-2007, 03:41 PM
Ultracote works fine just follow the directions that comes with the roll.

LuckyDay
07-24-2007, 12:14 AM
I used Econokote on this glassed Graupner Terry... maidened yesterday. A few problems unrelated to the covering, but landed intact. It's seen much worse - it was my first plane. Well, I mean that's the second wing and the second fuselage.

The foam is pretty temperature-sensitive; I spent most of the time between 1.7 and 2.0 on the iron, and moved it up to 2.3 or so for sealing edges.

I had a hard time getting the wrinkles out in certain areas, and the gray foam makes the seams in the yellow covering visible on the nose, but overall it's not too bad. Certainly from any kind of distance it looks great.

Several pics of before, during, and after the covering process below...

Saucerguy2
07-24-2007, 04:11 AM
Zagi tape is a good alternative to packing tape since it comes in several color's. From a short distance, you can hardly tell it's tape at all compared to traditional coverings. Krylon h20 weighs the plane down significantly when you cover the entire surface with it, so use it sparingly.

LuckyDay
07-27-2007, 07:19 PM
I'm currently using some white econokote to replace white packing tape on an EPP parkjet... pictures when I finish, but already I can say I highly prefer the covering. It is thicker (so whiter), stretches around corners easier, shrinks easier, and is stiffer (which is helpful on an EPP plane). Plus on the EPP I can use higher temperatures without damaging the foam.

I sprayed the whole thing with Duro glue spray, let it dry, and then applied the covering. I have done the elevators and half the vertical stabs and already it is easier and looks better than tape. I figured this would be a true test since I had already taped it.

bluejay
07-27-2007, 08:33 PM
good timing on your post lucky, I want to cover the epp wing on my ap plane. thanks

stuartellis
01-12-2011, 02:27 PM
Hi...Im thinking of getting an FMS P47 foamie. Ive had several other foam models in the past and wondered if there a product anyone has come across that can be brushed or sprayed on directly to the plane, over the paintwork without ruining it, that will give it added strength..or make it more resistent to dents. I dont have enough spare time to go down the ultracote / fibreglass route...also i maybe asking a bit much but is there anything that is transparent so the original finish comes thru without being affected... any help would be most appreciated..ta

max2112
01-12-2011, 09:22 PM
Hi...Im thinking of getting an FMS P47 foamie. Ive had several other foam models in the past and wondered if there a product anyone has come across that can be brushed or sprayed on directly to the plane, over the paintwork without ruining it, that will give it added strength..or make it more resistent to dents. I dont have enough spare time to go down the ultracote / fibreglass route...also i maybe asking a bit much but is there anything that is transparent so the original finish comes thru without being affected... any help would be most appreciated..ta
Hi stuartellis,
First off, WELCOME to WattFlyer!! It's always great to see new faces.:)

There have been a lot of people here who swear by Water Based Polyurethane (WBU). It doesn't help a whole lot in the strength department but it does make your foamie less susceptible to hangar rash and small dings from everyday flying.

Here is one thread on it: LINK (http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48869&highlight=wbpu).

Good luck!

PS: If you don't get many answers here, try asking your same question in a new thread. This one is pretty old!

stuartellis
01-13-2011, 11:36 AM
Thanks Max, i used the link you sent and was exactly what ive been looking for! spot on. Ordering the plane today.

CHELLIE
01-14-2011, 06:47 AM
Also, Testors Model Spray paint is water based, and works great on foam.

http://www.testors.com/product/136640/9216/_/Military_Aircraft_Spray_Set

http://www.tfw2005.com/boards/attachments/creative-general-discussion/27119641d1255095504-starting-off-what-kind-paints-do-you-recommend-tesr2457.jpg
read the 3rd colume on the can at the top right side, styrofoam

the Krylon H2O paint is very very heavy, and does not seem to stick very well IMHO.

and Welcome to Wattflyers Stuartellis :)

Huffy01
01-14-2011, 07:50 AM
This is a little off topic but I'm covering my Radian with 0.8mm balsawood.
I've almost done one side. It's a little slow and time consuming soaking the wood in a 1:1 ammonia : water solution and using athletic foot bandage to wrap it around the fuselage.
After it's dried coat the contact side with PVA glue then coat the foam where the balsa sheet goes and let it dry.
Then get the iron out ,set it on "wool" . Line the balsa up where I want it and iron it on!!

scouse
01-16-2011, 03:27 PM
ive been tinkering and toying with foam coving for a while now , i havent made much in the way of progress tbh but i have found a few things out that i like and some that i dont.

Covering for durability.

So far ive tried a few methods , like others , i ve tried both fibre reinforced tape which was transparent and clearly adds strength but you get to a point were you are adding some weight and coloured tapes which ive had good results with ( foam stryker , combat wings in front to back stripes) but on a conventional wing if you apply length wise its not so good , sometimes the flexing of the wing causes the tape to lift, stretch or peel , i suppose i could cover it again with something clear with better adhesion but again we go down the weight road.

I then tried water based urethane /poly c / your favourite brand , to be honest ive worked though most major brands now and i didnt find them effective in the long term , but , when mixed 33% wbpu/lightweight filler/water and applied with a brush sanded/applied/sanded/etc your choice of paint , i found the results impressive , you still suffer from dents but you have an excellent smooth surface. You do need to give the entire surface a good sanding first, i used 400 grit paper gently roughing up the foam to give the wbpu something to grip to as i found with foam if your dont do some serious prep work standard cellotape can remove all your hard work as can grass lol.

Fibre glass and wbpu as above prep work is the key , i know some people like this method and ive only used it half a dozen or so times , i prefer just wbpu and filler but ive only used ultra light fibreglass.

Epoxy and glass , the results speak for themselves and is probably the best covering for lengevity and finish if you spend the time prepping and sanding etc.

If i had a wish ( lottery please ) it would be for a glue that is ultra thin and light (like water ) that set like superglue but didnt go off as fast and could be coloured ( by adding dye or even coloured glue would be good), why ? , super glue and foams like epp/epo go together nicely but it sets to quickly to be able to arrange fibreglass on the parts for me delaying the setting action would allow you to shift and change postion of the glass a little. In a perfect foam world i would paint the foam with this glue , lay on nice light FG , apply light weight filler to the weave, sand , seal the surface with the same glue , sand , paint. Wbpu can do this but personally i dont thing it adheres that well.

I have tried just painting/sanding painting wbpu/sanding/painting with standard auto sprays , double acryllic , enamel , rcstyro for foam and didnt like any of the results , all cracked and showed stress marks were the foam was flexing in flight , in fact RCstyro the paint specially made for foam was the worst of the lot especially the black , after spraying and leaving to dry for 2-3 days the paint feels brittle and chips off with the slightest overly heavy touch.