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View Full Version : Has anyone ever re-wound a Himax Outrunner Motor?


3D Romeo
06-26-2007, 08:34 PM
Hi,

I bought a Himax 2808-0980 Outrunner motor for a 12 ounce foamy 3D plane, and either got a faulty motor, or ruined it in it's brief life span.

The first time I ran it I used a 11x4 Slo-Fly prop on it with a 910mAh 3-cell LiPo. The plane performed well, but the motor was very hot at the end of my flight (most of the flight was at half throttle, or less...I was flying indoors). The battery was also warmer than I would have liked.

The next couple times I ran the motor I used a 10x4 Slo-Fly prop with the same 910mAh 3-cell LiPo. Performance was still very good, but the motor was still very hot after each flight.

After those 3-4 flights I pulled the motor, and put it back in it's box. Something just didn't seem right with it. So I contacted MPI about it, and they suggested trying a 9x4 Slo-Fly prop on it. So I pulled out the motor a couple days ago, and tried one out. With this prop it was only pulling around 10-10.5 AMPS at 110-120 Watts, but it was still very hot. You could smell the heat coming off of the motor after only running it at full throttle for about 6-8 seconds.

Anyway, MPI said because of damage that may have occurred from the initial runs on larger props, that it is no longer under warranty. So I was wondering if anybody had ever tried re-winding one of these motors? I pulled the bell off of the front of the motor, but the stator seems to be glues to the back of the can.

I've never tried winding a motor before, but I'm usually pretty good with things like this, and would like to give it a try if possible.

If anybody has tried re-winding one of these motors before, and could give me some pointers on how to do, I'd really appreciate it. If you haven't actually re-wound one of these motors, but could give me some pointers anyway, I'd appreciate that, too.

The motor is of no use to me the way it is, so I got nothing to lose!

Thank You,

Mark

P.S. - Incase you are wondering why I chose the props I did for the initial runs on the motor. It was because I've read several reviews in magazines on this motor, and many of them used 10, and 11 inch props on it. I generally do most of my flying at 1/2 throttle, or less, too. The only time I ever hit full throttle is for brief climbs to do a spin, or blender.

ron_van_sommeren
06-28-2007, 10:52 PM
This should do the trick ...

Excellent motor building articles by Brian Mulder, a must read, will prevent you from asking a lot of questions you even did not know you were going to ask ;) ;)
http://www.southernsoaringclub.org.za/
-> Articles by SouthEasterners.
-> Electric Motors - part 1-5

Do-it-yourself motor homepages, manuals/tutorials, checks and tests in this motor builders tips and tricks thread. The checks and tests may save you from frying your controller or motor. Thread is active, bookmark it for future reference and subscribe to it:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=240993 (sticky thread, at top of subforum)

Two instructive motor winding/assembly videos, 14 & 10Mbyte respectively.
http://www.utahflyers.org/
-> Motor Winding #1 & #2


Vriendelijke groeten ;) Ron
• diy motor building tips & tricks (http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=240993)
• diy brushless motor discussion group (http://www.yahoogroups.com/group/lrk-torquemax)
• Drive Calculator (http://www.yahoogroups.com/group/D-calc/) download & discussion group
• int. E fly-in & diy outrunner meet (http://home.hetnet.nl/~ronvans/), Aug.26 2007, Nijmegen, the Netherlands

3D Romeo
06-29-2007, 03:08 AM
Thanks for the info Ron!

Every little bit helps.

Now I just have to see if I can remove the stator from the lower motor housing without damaging it.

Mark

Saucerguy2
06-30-2007, 02:37 AM
You need to make sure your soldering job to the esc and the motor itself is correct and you have very solid welds to the connectors. I found one of mine doing the same thing and I found out one of the connections came loose so the motor was essentially running on ony two leads, rather then 3.

Prop size does affect them, but it sounds like you are well within it's tolerances. I tend to prop mine for optimal performance rather then what the manufacturer reccomends because you can get away with a larger prop if you are using a smaller power source and vice versa.

Good luck on the re-wind, be sure to allocate replacement bearings as well, those are going to get heated up, breaking down the metelurgy of them in order to remove the stator from the rest of the assembly. I personally don't rewind motors since they are so cheap to replace.