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joeted
07-11-2007, 07:08 PM
Hello all
Im still pretty new to all this so I dont properly know the ins and outs of the planes yet so was wondering if you legends could help me please :)
As youve probably guessed I own a Super Cub and its great but I wanna push it further.I want more power and for it to last alot longer in the air
Ive been reading up alot and apparently I'll want a brushless motor , brushless ESC , new propellors , new batteries etc etc.
Now Ive been shopping around but I dont know for the life of me what brushless motor goes with what ESC etc etc ,Ive heard you need an ESC with more amps than the motor and I'll want Li Po batteries and wot not.Is there other little things I'll need , Is it a case of just taking the original motor out and screwing the new one in and stuff like that I'd like to know please.
What Im really after from you lads was an in depth easy to understand details for a beginner of how to do this please.I'd be really grateful for your help.
Any links to good motors , ESC's etc etc would be good too.
Thanks alot everyone
Joe

brnyrbbl
07-11-2007, 07:21 PM
I can partially answer your question. First off it's not as simple as swapping the motor and adding a brushless esc. The Super Cub uses a proprietary radio system with built in esc. So in order to upgrade to a brushless / lipo setup you would need to replace the transmitter/receiver, servos (SC uses unconventional 5 wire servos), and then add the brushless ESC and Lipo. I'm not sure if there is an easy way to bypass the ESC portion of the stock receiver and still use the rx portion since there is no throttle output port on the stock SC receiver which you would need to give the throttle signal to the brushless ESC. I'd personally get a plane that can give you what you want. The SC is a trainer and unless you really like it that much, it's not really worth the money to upgrade IMO. Good luck!

Gnascher
07-11-2007, 07:37 PM
I can partially answer your question. First off it's not as simple as swapping the motor and adding a brushless esc. The Super Cub uses a proprietary radio system with built in esc. So in order to upgrade to a brushless / lipo setup you would need to replace the transmitter/receiver, servos (SC uses unconventional 5 wire servos), and then add the brushless ESC and Lipo. I'm not sure if there is an easy way to bypass the ESC portion of the stock receiver and still use the rx portion since there is no throttle output port on the stock SC receiver which you would need to give the throttle signal to the brushless ESC. I'd personally get a plane that can give you what you want. The SC is a trainer and unless you really like it that much, it's not really worth the money to upgrade IMO. Good luck!

I wouldn't pooh pooh the idea of upgrading a SC simply because it's "just a trainer". You're right that he's going to have to buy all new electronics etc for this upgrade, but he'd have to do that ANYWAY if he was buying a different plane. All the electronics, motor, battery + airframe.

The benefit of modding his existing cub is that he's making incremental changes to an airframe he's already familiar with.

Once he's swapped out the electronics, it's also just another simple mod to add ailerons to this plane ... now he's got his first aileron trainer too.

The HZ SuperCub is a tough, versatile bird. It's easily repairable from most mishaps, and parts are cheap and usually very available. I think joeted would be well served by sinking some money in upgrades to this plane. Especially since a lot of that upgrade cost is easily transferable to a new airframe once he's truly tired of this venerable foamy.

brnyrbbl
07-11-2007, 07:57 PM
I agree and didn't mean to come across like" you're stupid to sink money in to the SC". If I did, I apologize. I too have a SC and probably will go the same route. I just wanted to make him aware it was more complicated than getting a brushless motor/esc and lipo. I just don't like to see people disappointed after they put time and money into something that wasn't designed to be a fast flyer. I'd hate to see him put a powerful setup in the SC just to watch the wings fold and become a lawn dart. Sometimes it's easier to buy a plane that's designed to function the way that you want than re-design an existing design. If the person is competant at building and understanding the airframe stress factor increases as both weight and power increase, then by all means, hack away! ;-)

Gnascher
07-11-2007, 08:18 PM
Cool enough. He stated that he was interested in more power, and longer flight-times. Within reason, that's certainly doable for this plane, and lots of people have reported good success with the BL/Lipo upgrade. IMHO, this plane is borderline on power in the stock config. anyway and would benefit with a little more ooph at the top of the throttle.

But you're right ... it ain't cheap to make it happen. BL motor, BL Esc, Lipos, new rx/tx/servos, Lipo charger ... it all adds up pretty quick. But much of it is an investment you're gonna make in the hobby if you stay in it.

Here's a step-wise route to get where you want to be that I'd recommend if you don't want to do it all at once due to the cost.

1. Go to a 3S Lipo. You can use this with the stock motor an electronics by simply removing a jumper on the RX. At 11.1V you'll get a nice boost from the extra voltage, longer flight times from the increased mAh capacity and lighter weight of the lipos. You'll probably have to mod your battery box to fit the lipo dimensions. You're probably looking at about $100 to get into 1 LiPo and a decent charger if you shop around.

2. Buy some 'standard' radio gear. (I went with the DX6 ... people will argue ad infinitum what the best one to buy is...) Whatever you decide, most packages will come with a Tranmitter, Receiver, and a few servos (The DX6 included 4). You will DEFINITELY appreciate the increase in control precision the better radio and servos give you. This will run you from around $150 to well the sky's really the limit. My DX6 was $200. You'll also need to buy a BRUSHED ESC at this time. Figure about $25.00 ... you need something around 12Amps.

3. (LOW COST MOD) ... now that you've got a good radio, and a couple extra servos ... might as well cut some ailerons into that wing. Look around ... there must be a dozen threads detailing this mod, or you can PM me and I'll tell you how I did mine. I'd recommend buying a new wing for the purpose ... they're only about $20.00. You'll also spend a few bucks on music wire, control horns, hinge material etc ... but this mod can be done for well under $50 (most of that cost being a new wing).

4. Ok ... now you've got a Lipo or two, decent radio, and have upgraded your plane to 4 ch ... you're itching for more. Now, start looking into getting a BL motor and ESC. Expect to spend anywhere from $50 to over $100 depending on the motor and ESC you end up with.

Gohmer
07-11-2007, 09:16 PM
Joe

You should look
here http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4371835/tm.htm

Lots of good SC information.

CyberSoft
07-13-2007, 09:45 PM
Hi Folks,

I'm also new to flying, I've owned the SC for about 3 months, I've had some really good flights with it but I now want to use it to do some video work and it just doesn't have the power to lift my Oregon Scientific camera, even though it's very small and light.

Like Joeted, I long for the knowledge to go brushless.

My dream power SC can be seen here.....
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=0NguHB7w0pc

I'm even considering buying all the electronics and motor for the PZ Typhoon and doing a transplant.

I'm happy with the 3 channel control for now and wouldn't be changing to ailerons as yet.

Or, is there an easier way??

joeted
08-02-2007, 10:49 PM
Hello everyone just a quick message to say thanks for all your help ,sorry it took so long to reply but ive been away.Thanks again ive looked into the motor mods and youve helped a great deal.
By the way I flew the cub the other day and had a slight problem,I nose dived it and crashed badly.Ive fixed it now but Im just waiting on the cowl to come through.It was in the air for about 3 minutes when I lost all power !!! I didnt have any control over the plane whatsoever , I couldnt steer it or anything.When I got to the crash site (it was painful) I tested the power and it was all working again ,rudder,elevator and motor. Has anybody else experienced this.It happened to me once before but luckily it was flying straight when the power cut and glided into long grass.Any ideas on why this happened would be appreciated.
Joe

Gnascher
08-02-2007, 11:00 PM
Hello everyone just a quick message to say thanks for all your help ,sorry it took so long to reply but ive been away.Thanks again ive looked into the motor mods and youve helped a great deal.
By the way I flew the cub the other day and had a slight problem,I nose dived it and crashed badly.Ive fixed it now but Im just waiting on the cowl to come through.It was in the air for about 3 minutes when I lost all power !!! I didnt have any control over the plane whatsoever , I couldnt steer it or anything.When I got to the crash site (it was painful) I tested the power and it was all working again ,rudder,elevator and motor. Has anybody else experienced this.It happened to me once before but luckily it was flying straight when the power cut and glided into long grass.Any ideas on why this happened would be appreciated.
Joe

Check your battery connections. The stock connectors I found to be pretty "iffy". I'd recommend switching all your connectors over to Deans or something more secure. I had intermittent cut-out problems myself with those stock tamiya-style connectors.

If it isn't a problem at the connection end, make sure that one of the solder joints within the battery pack hasn't come loose.

Also, you can do a fair job of patching up even a badly shattered cowl with clear packing tape ... even if you've only got "most" of the shards of that eggshell they call a cowl.

joeted
08-02-2007, 11:19 PM
Check your battery connections. The stock connectors I found to be pretty "iffy". I'd recommend switching all your connectors over to Deans or something more secure. I had intermittent cut-out problems myself with those stock tamiya-style connectors.

If it isn't a problem at the connection end, make sure that one of the solder joints within the battery pack hasn't come loose.

Also, you can do a fair job of patching up even a badly shattered cowl with clear packing tape ... even if you've only got "most" of the shards of that eggshell they call a cowl.
Thanks for your help Gnascher
Can you tell me how to take the standard connectors off and put the deans connectors on.Do you put the deans connectors on the battery and the battery connector in the plane ? Sorry if I sound a bit dumb lol its just that I havnt done anything like that before,Im still a bit new to this.
Thanks again

Gnascher
08-03-2007, 01:29 AM
Thanks for your help Gnascher
Can you tell me how to take the standard connectors off and put the deans connectors on.Do you put the deans connectors on the battery and the battery connector in the plane ? Sorry if I sound a bit dumb lol its just that I havnt done anything like that before,Im still a bit new to this.
Thanks again

If you're using dean's ultras, you just cut the old connectors off (one wire at a time, otherwise you'll cause a short), and then solder the Dean's on. You put the female plug on the battery, and the male plug on the RX/ESC. The package will tell you which terminal is + and -. Don't forget to put one on your charger too!

Bill G
08-06-2007, 02:31 AM
Check your battery connections. The stock connectors I found to be pretty "iffy". I'd recommend switching all your connectors over to Deans or something more secure. I had intermittent cut-out problems myself with those stock tamiya-style connectors.

If it isn't a problem at the connection end, make sure that one of the solder joints within the battery pack hasn't come loose.

Also, you can do a fair job of patching up even a badly shattered cowl with clear packing tape ... even if you've only got "most" of the shards of that eggshell they call a cowl.

I always knew Tamiyas were junk, but a few weeks back, I had a Tamiya cut out right before launch.::o

They're all gone now, after that event. Deans on all the planes now, that don't use JST connectors, and on my larger batts. A lot of work, but since all my recent mishaps are now due to equipment problems and not me (finally:Q), I don't need to temp any more fate.

Its a lot easier to go to Deans when you start in the hobby, and not stay with "the devil your with" as I did for so long, since I didn't want to change over. When I finally did, it was just more work.



JSTs:</p> Finally, we are starting to see some JSTs out there with 18 GA wire, both available on batts and as assembled connector harnesses with wire length. These little buggers are actually better than the common Tamiya, believe it or not. The Tamiya will carry a bit more current when new, but as soon as the pins loosten up, they're through. The gold plated JST pins will repeately work well. I've ran them up to almost 15A continuous with no problems.

Anybody want a pile of standard Tamiyas? Seriously, they're free. Just don't blame me if one goes intermittent on you.::o


Fortunately, Tamiya did not get to destroy the plane below, but could have:</p>
Bill

joeted
08-06-2007, 07:39 PM
If you're using dean's ultras, you just cut the old connectors off (one wire at a time, otherwise you'll cause a short), and then solder the Dean's on. You put the female plug on the battery, and the male plug on the RX/ESC. The package will tell you which terminal is + and -. Don't forget to put one on your charger too!
Ok thanks alot Gnasher, one more thing... is there a certain type of deans connectors I need for the super cub batteries or is there just 1 type for all ? Thanks again mate

Bill G
08-07-2007, 06:45 AM
Ok thanks alot Gnasher, one more thing... is there a certain type of deans connectors I need for the super cub batteries or is there just 1 type for all ? Thanks again mate

There are generics. I try to stay with the Deans brand.

I use Deans Ultra for apps over around 13A or so. Under that, I don't bother with the smaller Deans, since I think the JST is a good connector, and more standardized on the small lipos and other stuff that we buy.

Just an opinion, but I think an overall popular one.

Bill

joeted
08-07-2007, 08:22 PM
There are generics. I try to stay with the Deans brand.

I use Deans Ultra for apps over around 13A or so. Under that, I don't bother with the smaller Deans, since I think the JST is a good connector, and more standardized on the small lipos and other stuff that we buy.

Just an opinion, but I think an overall popular one.

Bill
Sorry Bill can I ask what "apps" means ? :red:

Gnascher
08-07-2007, 08:27 PM
"applications"

joeted
08-07-2007, 10:06 PM
Cheers Gnasher and Bill looks like Im gonna change to deans connectors then.I forgot to ask .... is changing connectors on the battery charger dodgy in any way ?

Gnascher
08-07-2007, 10:55 PM
Cheers Gnasher and Bill looks like Im gonna change to deans connectors then.I forgot to ask .... is changing connectors on the battery charger dodgy in any way ?

No different than changing it on the ESC/RX.

The only place you need to be EXTRA careful is changing the lead on the battery. If you create a short, you could ruin the pack.

joeted
08-08-2007, 06:13 PM
Ok cheers Gnasher . Ive found some deans connectors on the models in motion site but theres 4 of them .... dean ultra sockets ?? ,deans ultra plug (green),deans ultra plug (red) and deans ultra plug (black) , can u tell me whats the difference and what ones I need plaese ? Heres the link if its easier http://www.modelsinmotion.co.uk/category.asp?catcode=248

Thanks again

Gnascher
08-08-2007, 06:22 PM
Color is irrelevant unless you want to come up with some color coding scheme of your own.

Basically, you are looking for as many Dean's Ultra female plugs as you have batteries.Then you need one Dean's Ultra male plug for everything that plugs into your batteries (at minimum you probably need 2: one for the ESC, another for the charger)

On that site I THINK they're calling the female plugs the "Sockets" (TB2013 (http://www.modelsinmotion.co.uk/product.asp?productid=2777&catCode=248&tamiya=0)), and the Males the "Plugs"(TB2011BK (http://www.modelsinmotion.co.uk/product.asp?productid=4934&catCode=248&tamiya=0)), but you may want to contact them to be sure.

Alteratively, you could try using the "pigtail" sets they offer. (TB2015 (http://www.modelsinmotion.co.uk/product.asp?productid=4937&catCode=248&tamiya=0) and TB2014 (http://www.modelsinmotion.co.uk/product.asp?productid=4936&catCode=248&tamiya=0)).

Or ... you could just buy the "sets" (TB2011 (http://www.modelsinmotion.co.uk/product.asp?productid=2776&catCode=248&tamiya=0)) that come complete with M and F plugs.

joeted
08-08-2007, 08:25 PM
Ok great,so do I solder the deans ultra to the end of the original wire or do I need new wire etc ? its just that by them pictures of the connectors I cant see where you would solder the wire into ?? Am I being stupid lol.
Also what are these heat shrinks that I keep seeing ,do I need them ?
How to make an easy job impossible...by Joe lol
Sorry chaps I need detailed instructions,I like to make sure lol

Gnascher
08-08-2007, 08:57 PM
1. Cut the old connectors off leaving as much of the wire as possible*.
2. Strip the wire back 1/8" or so.
3. "pre-tin" the new Dean's connector solder points as well as the bare wire
4. Slide a piece of shrink tube over the wire, and push it as far away from the end as possible (you don't want the heat from soldering to cause it to shrink)
5. Now, hold the wire over the solder point and melt the solder with your iron. You can also flow a little more solder into the joint at this point.
6. Let it all cool and give it a little "tug" to check that it's secure.
7. If you are satisfied with the result, slide the shrink tube down over your joint, and hold it BRIEFLY over an open flame or use the tip of your soldering iron to get it to shrink down tight.

* - when doing the battery connection, make sure you only do ONE lead at a time to eliminate the possibility of a short circuit.

joeted
08-08-2007, 09:06 PM
Thanks alot Gnasher your a star.
I think Ive got it now.Im going to order all the bits I need now and I'll keep you posted on how I get on .
Thanks again

Gnascher
08-09-2007, 08:10 PM
Let us know how you get on...

Hack73
08-10-2007, 04:17 PM
Here is a usefull link I found.
http://supercubclub.proboards78.com/index.cgi?board=batt&action=display&thread=1184557793

On this page, there are more links to videos showing you how to solder correctly.

joeted
08-16-2007, 07:29 PM
Let us know how you get on...
Hello Gnasher
Well I finally got all my soldering gear and deans connectors thru and gave it a go last night.
Im pleased to say Ive done all 4 of my batteries and the esc and everythings working fine.Im quite pleased with myself actually Lol :ws:
Only problem Ive got is with the dc charger.I tested it in my car and plugged a battery in and the light on the charger flashes just 3 times then goes out.If it was working it would flash constantly then the light would stay on when the battery is charged.Its definately a charger problem.Theres 2 wires coming off the charger,1 plain black and 1 black/white ,well I soldered the black/white wire to the + and the plain black wire to the - is that right or have I got that the wrong way round ? What do u think the problem is ?
Cheers again Gnasher
Joe

Gnascher
08-16-2007, 08:50 PM
Hello Gnasher
Well I finally got all my soldering gear and deans connectors thru and gave it a go last night.
Im pleased to say Ive done all 4 of my batteries and the esc and everythings working fine.Im quite pleased with myself actually Lol :ws:
Only problem Ive got is with the dc charger.I tested it in my car and plugged a battery in and the light on the charger flashes just 3 times then goes out.If it was working it would flash constantly then the light would stay on when the battery is charged.Its definately a charger problem.Theres 2 wires coming off the charger,1 plain black and 1 black/white ,well I soldered the black/white wire to the + and the plain black wire to the - is that right or have I got that the wrong way round ? What do u think the problem is ?
Cheers again Gnasher
Joe

I expect you've got the polarity reversed on the charger lead.

joeted
08-16-2007, 09:03 PM
I expect you've got the polarity reversed on the charger lead.
Oh right ok , does that mean Ive ruined the charger or is it just a case of unsoldering them and then soldering them back the other way round ?

Hack73
08-16-2007, 09:51 PM
Check this forum about color coded wires on the chargers. http://supercubclub.proboards78.com/index.cgi?board=chargers&action=display&thread=1186002061

The black wire with the white dashed line off the wall charger is positive and the black wire with the white line off the car charger is negative.

joeted
08-16-2007, 10:04 PM
Check this forum about color coded wires on the chargers. http://supercubclub.proboards78.com/index.cgi?board=chargers&action=display&thread=1186002061

The black wire with the white dashed line off the wall charger is positive and the black wire with the white line off the car charger is negative.
Thanks buddy,Ive just changed them around and its working now so Im all set to go.Im just gonna keep plugging in and unplugging now to loosen the connectors up a bit.Does anyone else find the deans plugs really tight ?

Gnascher
08-16-2007, 10:33 PM
Thanks buddy,Ive just changed them around and its working now so Im all set to go.Im just gonna keep plugging in and unplugging now to loosen the connectors up a bit.Does anyone else find the deans plugs really tight ?

They're tight initially, but they do break in well. It ensures good contact.

I see you found that the charger wasn't damaged. I wouldn't expect that it would be, most are protected against incorrect polarity.

joeted
08-16-2007, 10:49 PM
Yeah Im all sorted now
Thanks alot for all your help Gnasher and I'll definately inform you of my next plane project lol. Ive got the buzz for it now.Start off small and progress thats what I say lol.
Thnaks everyone else too
Joe

marchino61
08-17-2007, 02:40 AM
Cheers Gnasher and Bill looks like Im gonna change to deans connectors then.I forgot to ask .... is changing connectors on the battery charger dodgy in any way ?

When I removed the Tamiya connectors from my batteries I left a short length of wire attached. I then soldered Deans plugs to this short cable and made adapters for my chargers.

That way I can charge batteries that use either connector, and I don't void the warranty on the charger.

Cuervo
08-17-2007, 07:41 AM
I have question maybe somebody could give me a little bit of wisdom. I have Super Cub, great. However, I have upgraded to a brushless six series motor 2700 kv with a 45 AMP Speed Controller. In addition, during my first flight the motor got over heated and stutter. I am not using a gear box at this time. I have been told that this overheating problem could be overcome if I was using a gear box. Would somebody please direct me on how to overcome the overheating mishap?

DetroitHawk
08-19-2007, 02:34 PM
I have question maybe somebody could give me a little bit of wisdom. I have Super Cub, great. However, I have upgraded to a brushless six series motor 2700 kv with a 45 AMP Speed Controller. In addition, during my first flight the motor got over heated and stutter. I am not using a gear box at this time. I have been told that this overheating problem could be overcome if I was using a gear box. Would somebody please direct me on how to overcome the overheating mishap?


Heat is a sign that something else is wrong, it could be that you are using too large of a prop and drawing too much power causing it to over heat, the sputter is from the ESC probally cutting out or the fact your battery can't discharge at the rate you are drawing power.


What is the battery you are using?

What is the prop you are using?

Dr Kiwi
08-19-2007, 04:48 PM
I have question maybe somebody could give me a little bit of wisdom. I have Super Cub, great. However, I have upgraded to a brushless six series motor 2700 kv with a 45 AMP Speed Controller. In addition, during my first flight the motor got over heated and stutter. I am not using a gear box at this time. I have been told that this overheating problem could be overcome if I was using a gear box. Would somebody please direct me on how to overcome the overheating mishap?

Here are the specs for the Series 6: If you do not exceed the recommended DD prop size you should be okay, but it is important to actually measure your current draw to see if it is within reasonable limits. I imagine that on 3s the 5x4 is the limit...on 2s one assumes you could run a 6x5.5.

<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="3" width="100%"><tbody><tr><td>Specs
</td> </tr><tr> <td class="Product-ContentText"> Type: 6-Pole Inrunner</td> </tr><tr> <td class="Product-ContentText"> Size: 400 / 480 Upgrade</td> </tr><tr> <td class="Product-ContentText"> Bearings or Bushings: Ball Bearings</td> </tr><tr> <td class="Product-ContentText"> Recommended Prop Range: 5 x 4 to 6 x 5.5 direct drive or 10 x 6 to 12 x 6 with 2:1 to 3:1 gearbox</td> </tr><tr> <td class="Product-ContentText"> Voltage: 7.2 - 12</td> </tr><tr> <td class="Product-ContentText"> RPM/Volt (Kv): 2700</td> </tr><tr> <td class="Product-ContentText"> Resistance (Ri): .03 ohms</td> </tr><tr> <td class="Product-ContentText"> Idle Current (Io): 2.05A @ 10V</td> </tr><tr> <td class="Product-ContentText"> Continuous Current: 34A</td> </tr><tr> <td class="Product-ContentText"> Maximum Burst Current: 42A (15 sec)</td> </tr><tr> <td class="Product-ContentText"> Cells: 6-10 Ni-MH/Ni-Cd or 2-3S Li-Po</td> </tr><tr> <td class="Product-ContentText"> Speed Control: 35A - 45A Brushless</td> </tr><tr> <td class="Product-ContentText"> Weight: 80g (2.9 oz)</td> </tr><tr> <td class="Product-ContentText"> Overall Diameter: 28mm (1.10 in)</td> </tr><tr> <td class="Product-ContentText"> Shaft Diameter: 3.17mm (1/8 in)</td> </tr><tr> <td class="Product-ContentText"> Overall Length: 36mm (1.40 in)</td></tr></tbody></table>

Cuervo
08-20-2007, 01:07 AM
Here are the specs for the Series 6: If you do not exceed the recommended DD prop size you should be okay, but it is important to actually measure your current draw to see if it is within reasonable limits. I imagine that on 3s the 5x4 is the limit...on 2s one assumes you could run a 6x5.5.

<TABLE cellSpacing=3 cellPadding=0 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD>Specs

</TD></TR><TR><TD class=Product-ContentText>Type: 6-Pole Inrunner</TD></TR><TR><TD class=Product-ContentText>Size: 400 / 480 Upgrade</TD></TR><TR><TD class=Product-ContentText>Bearings or Bushings: Ball Bearings</TD></TR><TR><TD class=Product-ContentText>Recommended Prop Range: 5 x 4 to 6 x 5.5 direct drive or 10 x 6 to 12 x 6 with 2:1 to 3:1 gearbox</TD></TR><TR><TD class=Product-ContentText>Voltage: 7.2 - 12</TD></TR><TR><TD class=Product-ContentText>RPM/Volt (Kv): 2700</TD></TR><TR><TD class=Product-ContentText>Resistance (Ri): .03 ohms</TD></TR><TR><TD class=Product-ContentText>Idle Current (Io): 2.05A @ 10V</TD></TR><TR><TD class=Product-ContentText>Continuous Current: 34A</TD></TR><TR><TD class=Product-ContentText>Maximum Burst Current: 42A (15 sec)</TD></TR><TR><TD class=Product-ContentText>Cells: 6-10 Ni-MH/Ni-Cd or 2-3S Li-Po</TD></TR><TR><TD class=Product-ContentText>Speed Control: 35A - 45A Brushless</TD></TR><TR><TD class=Product-ContentText>Weight: 80g (2.9 oz)</TD></TR><TR><TD class=Product-ContentText>Overall Diameter: 28mm (1.10 in)</TD></TR><TR><TD class=Product-ContentText>Shaft Diameter: 3.17mm (1/8 in)</TD></TR><TR><TD class=Product-ContentText>Overall Length: 36mm (1.40 in)</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
Thank you. You have answered my question. I actually have a little too big of a prop for a direct drive, but I did not think it would be that big of a deal. However, based on what you have mentioned it is very relevant. I am using a 2200mAh 3S LiPo Battery by parkzone. I have a second motor and I did not want to mess this one up as well. I am fairly new to this and learning from my mistakes, oops :( I will follow the specifications on the manual and described about to see what happens this time. Thanks a lot. I have another question. Which motor do you consider to be better a six series 2700 Kv or an Aon T2815-3000 Thrust Aircraft Brushless Motor (http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/310005.asp)? I certainly appreciate your help in advance.

Bill G
08-20-2007, 04:56 PM
Thank you. You have answered my question. I actually have a little too big of a prop for a direct drive, but I did not think it would be that big of a deal. However, based on what you have mentioned it is very relevant. I am using a 2200mAh 3S LiPo Battery by parkzone. I have a second motor and I did not want to mess this one up as well. I am fairly new to this and learning from my mistakes, oops :( I will follow the specifications on the manual and described about to see what happens this time. Thanks a lot. I have another question. Which motor do you consider to be better a six series 2700 Kv or an Aon T2815-3000 Thrust Aircraft Brushless Motor (http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/310005.asp)? I certainly appreciate your help in advance.
I was surprised early on, when I discovered that brushed DD setups have a very small range of prop sizes and pitch, where they will perform well. They don't have to deviate much in size to either become inefficient, or overload the motor. Usually the ARF manufacturers using DD brushed setups have very close, if not the optimum prop for the setup. Often they have to anyways, since the plane needs all the power it can get out of the setup to fly well, or in some cases, at all.:eek:

Have you thought of using a geared setup or an outrunner, with a larger prop for the setup? For this type of plane, the DD smaller prop setups are often not the most efficient setups. More useful in a higher wing loading warbird, that requires a higher pitch speed.

Bill

Cuervo
08-21-2007, 10:29 PM
What would be a good size outrunner to use that someboddy can recommend, please?

Bill G
08-25-2007, 07:38 AM
I would look at the motor specs of the various ones on the market. Many of them list weight ranges of planes that they'll power, that are actually pretty realistic, as long as you have a reasonable wing loading around 15oz/sq-ft or less.

Bill

mike-cook@earthlink.net
09-07-2007, 03:48 AM
Cool enough. He stated that he was interested in more power, and longer flight-times. Within reason, that's certainly doable for this plane, and lots of people have reported good success with the BL/Lipo upgrade. IMHO, this plane is borderline on power in the stock config. anyway and would benefit with a little more ooph at the top of the throttle.

But you're right ... it ain't cheap to make it happen. BL motor, BL Esc, Lipos, new rx/tx/servos, Lipo charger ... it all adds up pretty quick. But much of it is an investment you're gonna make in the hobby if you stay in it.

Here's a step-wise route to get where you want to be that I'd recommend if you don't want to do it all at once due to the cost.

1. Go to a 3S Lipo. You can use this with the stock motor an electronics by simply removing a jumper on the RX. At 11.1V you'll get a nice boost from the extra voltage, longer flight times from the increased mAh capacity and lighter weight of the lipos. You'll probably have to mod your battery box to fit the lipo dimensions. You're probably looking at about $100 to get into 1 LiPo and a decent charger if you shop around.

2. Buy some 'standard' radio gear. (I went with the DX6 ... people will argue ad infinitum what the best one to buy is...) Whatever you decide, most packages will come with a Tranmitter, Receiver, and a few servos (The DX6 included 4). You will DEFINITELY appreciate the increase in control precision the better radio and servos give you. This will run you from around $150 to well the sky's really the limit. My DX6 was $200. You'll also need to buy a BRUSHED ESC at this time. Figure about $25.00 ... you need something around 12Amps.

3. (LOW COST MOD) ... now that you've got a good radio, and a couple extra servos ... might as well cut some ailerons into that wing. Look around ... there must be a dozen threads detailing this mod, or you can PM me and I'll tell you how I did mine. I'd recommend buying a new wing for the purpose ... they're only about $20.00. You'll also spend a few bucks on music wire, control horns, hinge material etc ... but this mod can be done for well under $50 (most of that cost being a new wing).

4. Ok ... now you've got a Lipo or two, decent radio, and have upgraded your plane to 4 ch ... you're itching for more. Now, start looking into getting a BL motor and ESC. Expect to spend anywhere from $50 to over $100 depending on the motor and ESC you end up with.
Hey, I could'nt help but see this and I had a few Q's.
#1 Can I use the DX6 + spectrum rx with the stock moter AND the bl moter? If not what will I have to do to make it work with a BL?
#2 What is aN ESC? Thanks for the info. Michael

mike-cook@earthlink.net
09-07-2007, 04:18 AM
Sorry for the second post but I think i am geting the hang of this. OK. Lets say that I have a Spektrum DX6 with the AR6000 RX in my SuperCub, will I have to choose a Speed controler that will work with a brushless moter or does it not mater? Could sombody plaese give me a good Bl moter/ESC/battery/ E.G that will work with the Spektrum Tx and Rx. Thanks. Ps: Does Spektrum make a ESC???

lshadow2005
09-07-2007, 05:03 AM
The TX and TX does not care if you have a brushless or a brushed motor.
The important thing to remember is to match your ESC (electronic speed controller) to the type of moter i.e. brushless motor to a brushless esc.
Ther are many brands of of both as well as batteries.
I would go with a major brand like eflite motors and their esc's
ThunderPower batteries are good and come in alot of sizes as well as a good charger.
Good luck and keep asking questions and reading the answers
Find a flying club and join up and get lots of help too
Bob

mike-cook@earthlink.net
09-07-2007, 05:44 AM
The TX and TX does not care if you have a brushless or a brushed motor.
The important thing to remember is to match your ESC (electronic speed controller) to the type of moter i.e. brushless motor to a brushless esc.
Ther are many brands of of both as well as batteries.
I would go with a major brand like eflite motors and their esc's
ThunderPower batteries are good and come in alot of sizes as well as a good charger.
Good luck and keep asking questions and reading the answers
Find a flying club and join up and get lots of help too
Bob
Thanks for all of your help!

Hand-Eye-Guy
10-11-2007, 06:54 AM
We are in the process of mounting an EFlite Park 450 outrunner to our SuperCub. We will try to have some pix of the process and how it turns out.