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View Full Version : help me installing Himax 2025-4200 in GWS mustang


SBR_RV
11-12-2005, 06:38 AM
hi all, i have a GWS mustang that iv had for about 3 years. i have finally got a brushless motor for it. its a Himax 2025-4200 with a castle creations gearbox. i will be using an APC prop, no sure which one yet.

iam having trouble finding a way to fit the spinner backing plate (stock GWS mustang spinner). the gearbox shaft is not long enough, so the backing plate rubs against the nose of fuse. (sorry kind of hard to explain).
Would gluing another peice of 10mm sq wood onto the existing to move the gearbox further forward be an option? or perhaps a spacer between the backing plate and shaft?

has anyone used this motor/gearbox seat before, if so how did you get about this probelm. if you have aby questions, jsut ask and ill try to answer.

thanks

qban_flyer
11-12-2005, 07:14 AM
hi all, i have a GWS mustang that iv had for about 3 years. i have finally got a brushless motor for it. its a Himax 2025-4200 with a castle creations gearbox. i will be using an APC prop, no sure which one yet.

iam having trouble finding a way to fit the spinner backing plate (stock GWS mustang spinner). the gearbox shaft is not long enough, so the backing plate rubs against the nose of fuse. (sorry kind of hard to explain).
Would gluing another peice of 10mm sq wood onto the existing to move the gearbox further forward be an option? or perhaps a spacer between the backing plate and shaft?

has anyone used this motor/gearbox seat before, if so how did you get about this probelm. if you have aby questions, jsut ask and ill try to answer.

thanks

Gluing an extension to the mounting stick is not an option unless it is done with extreme care, as it will break easily and might even do so while in flight.

There are two ways I can see you finding your way out of this problem. First one would be to drill a 1/2" deep hole in the existing stick and whatever wood you would be using for an extension, and to insert a dowel (same diameter as the hole drilled) on both to make the joint a rigid and strong one. Precision is the key word in this drilling job. Both pieces must match exactly after the dowel is inserted on both before epoxying the three components of this extension.

Second option would be to carefully remove the existing stick. It can be done by inserting a thin bladed tool to dislodge the stick on four of the five glued sides (the fifth is the back of the stick which can't be reached). Once that is done, replace the original stick with a longer one. Whatever little foam you may loose in the original stick removal process would be replaced by epoxy. I have done this procedure twice and the planes are still flying, well over one year of the "mod" being made.

SBR_RV
11-12-2005, 08:47 AM
thanks for the reply, just a question, what was the thin bladed tool you used for the second MOD.

qban_flyer
11-12-2005, 09:04 AM
thanks for the reply, just a question, what was the thin bladed tool you used for the second MOD.

I use an old metal finger nail file.It's just wide enough and the right thickness to work its way between the foam and the stick.

Once you have worked top and bottom of the stick free off the foam, work on the sides. After they are dislodged from the foam just twist the stick untill it breaks free from the foam at the rear.

Cut a new one to the length you need, mix plenty of epoxy, soak the stick on epoxy, especially the rear and shove it the opening (it's a bit messy but it works like a charm). Make sure it is aligned as the original was. There is some right and down thrust built in, you want those angles as close to the original as possible.

Rugar
11-12-2005, 10:28 AM
An alternative to epoxy which I use when gluing in motor sticks or anything that has a void to fill is Gorilla glue. It expands like crazy and is very strong once its dry. It does take several hours to fully cure. Also make sure you use hardwood for the motor stick. You can get it at most any hobby shop. You should be able to use your cowl to reset your thrust back to they way it is now. Use at least 15 Epoxy or slower curing and screw your cowl back on and align your prop shaft in the center or however it was before removing the old stick.

Rugar
11-12-2005, 10:37 AM
Qban,
Very nice web page you have. I just spent a bit of time reading the whole thing. Looks like you have got a lot of memories on there.

SBR_RV
11-12-2005, 12:38 PM
qban and rugar, thanks for the help. i have just removed the wooden mount and will replace soon. i used a metal hack saw peice and filed one end razor sharp with a dremal. it sliced through real easy.

thanks for your help.

qban_flyer
11-12-2005, 01:51 PM
An alternative to epoxy which I use when gluing in motor sticks or anything that has a void to fill is Gorilla glue. It expands like crazy and is very strong once its dry. It does take several hours to fully cure. Also make sure you use hardwood for the motor stick. You can get it at most any hobby shop. You should be able to use your cowl to reset your thrust back to they way it is now. Use at least 15 Epoxy or slower curing and screw your cowl back on and align your prop shaft in the center or however it was before removing the old stick.

Gorilla Glue is a good alternative, though in case the stick has to removed (for whatever reason) makes it a bit difficult to do so. Gorilla Glue really makes a strong bond.

It goes without saying that the alignment of the stick motor mount is extremely important, just as it is the fact that it should be of the hardest hardwood available at the LHS in 10mm.

Thanks for the comments about my web page. It's been there since 2001 and gets updated once in a while.

Off to the flying field when the temperature makes it above 50 degrees today. It currently is 36 degrees. :eek:

qban_flyer
11-12-2005, 01:55 PM
qban and rugar, thanks for the help. i have just removed the wooden mount and will replace soon. i used a metal hack saw peice and filed one end razor sharp with a dremal. it sliced through real easy.

thanks for your help.

Glad to have been able to assist you. Thathack saw blade idea was brilliant. I never thought of it, but since I had that old nail nail file handy that's what I used.

The method you used to solve your problem is the nicest and fastest of the two.

timocharis
11-12-2005, 05:00 PM
An alternative to using sticks? Get a replacement Slow Stick fuse. The aluminum is stronger, lighter, and you can make 20-30 sticks from one fuse.

Something to think about anyway.


Dave North

qban_flyer
11-12-2005, 05:06 PM
An alternative to using sticks? Get a replacement Slow Stick fuse. The aluminum is stronger, lighter, and you can make 20-30 sticks from one fuse.

Something to think about anyway.


Dave North

Really brilliant idea. They sell it for something like $5.99 each or so I've been told. I wonder how strong a bond will the aluminum surface and the styro would form, even after roughing it with sandpaper? :confused:

Rugar
11-12-2005, 05:51 PM
An alternative to using sticks? Get a replacement Slow Stick fuse. The aluminum is stronger, lighter, and you can make 20-30 sticks from one fuse.

Something to think about anyway.


Dave North

Great idea!
Maybe drill some small holes in the section that gets inserted in the fuse and then use Gorilla glue. The glue would expand into the holes making a solid bond.

timocharis
11-12-2005, 08:03 PM
qban: It worked for me! I've tried probond (gorillaglue), epoxy, and gws glue. All worked fine. I bet rugar's idea of drilling a few holes would help, but really it's crappy enough aluminum that a little roughing seems to do the job.

Dave

qban_flyer
11-13-2005, 12:42 AM
qban: It worked for me! I've tried probond (gorillaglue), epoxy, and gws glue. All worked fine. I bet rugar's idea of drilling a few holes would help, but really it's crappy enough aluminum that a little roughing seems to do the job.

Dave

Glad to hear the aluminum boom has worked for you. At times it is difficult to find 10mm square hardwood sticks. That aluminum not only has the right dimesions but it's also lighter in weight.

The ideat of drilling holes on all four sides for the Gorilla Glue to penetrate the stick and effect a stronger bond is excellent too.

This is what I like about Watt Flyer, Unlike some other sites in here when several brains tackle a problem the result always is an efficient and elegant solution to the problem at hand. I'm glad Watt Flyer found me. :)

SBR_RV
11-13-2005, 01:56 AM
An alternative to using sticks? Get a replacement Slow Stick fuse. The aluminum is stronger, lighter, and you can make 20-30 sticks from one fuse.

Something to think about anyway.


Dave North


great idea, but unfortuently i would have to try and seperate the fuse from the wings because i have glued them together with epoxy, she is now one solid bird. the reason i glued them was because of a previous crash.
i was flying inverted one day for about two seconds and the wing seperated, pullng the bolt out and servo out of its bay.
before this i had done inverted circuits with, i guess it just got weak over time.
the other negative problem was, that when the wing came of i was fairly high up, so when i hit the spinner was below the HARD ground leval. the impact forced the battery forward so far that i couldnt force it back the other way until about two days of effort.

since then it has flown again and crashed again then flown again and then was retired until brushless came to my mind.

Rugar
11-13-2005, 02:06 AM
great idea, but unfortuently i would have to try and seperate the fuse from the wings because i have glued them together with epoxy, she is now one solid bird. the reason i glued them was because of a previous crash.
i was flying inverted one day for about two seconds and the wing seperated, pullng the bolt out and servo out of its bay.
before this i had done inverted circuits with, i guess it just got weak over time.
the other negative problem was, that when the wing came of i was fairly high up, so when i hit the spinner was below the HARD ground leval. the impact forced the battery forward so far that i couldnt force it back the other way until about two days of effort.

since then it has flown again and crashed again then flown again and then was retired until brushless came to my mind.

Not sure why you think you would have to take the wing off :confused:. We were talking about using a piece of aluminum instead of wood for your new motor stick.

SBR_RV
11-13-2005, 02:18 AM
Get a replacement Slow Stick fuse.

hmm, i must have mis read, oh well, but yes a great idea.