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donjiskra
11-20-2005, 11:34 PM
Just received a new set of GWS floats. Anyone have suggestions/tips on assembling??? I'm confused just where to trim the plastic!!!

Much appreciatd.

Lancer31
11-21-2005, 02:34 PM
Why didn't I think of that?

**neons**
11-21-2005, 05:56 PM
I just did a set and it was not to easy if amature buider. I used a sharp razor blade or a new Xacto blade. I trimmed the plastic in 2 phases. Cut excess plastic off of and up above the first outward bend on the plastic. Then come back and carefully cut below the first outward mold on the flat part. This should leave about 1/8" of plastic on the rear of the float plastic to glue and more forward. Try a fit to see if it needs any more trimming. I fit the top to the bottom plastic first to determin the fit before glueing. I pushed it toward the rear of the float step first to test the fit I then glued the front sector and then the rear sector using a FOAM Safe Ca glue. Taping will help also if you have enough fingers. After glue sets up I us a Hot Glue gun and run a very light bead all around the float to seal any openings in the seam. I wet my finger to help smooth it out as I go. I flew the plane a few days ago and it worked great. These floats have little water resistance when taxiing.
A note also. I ran 2 layers of clear package tape on the plastic inside bottom of the floats before gluing to help stiffen the plastic from bangs into the plastic which could dent it. I do the same with plastic GWS cowls along the bottoms on the inside. I actually landed it on grass with no problems as it slipped right through the grass just like landing gear. The plastic is slippery.
**neons** Bob

obiewanben
11-21-2005, 09:59 PM
I read somewhere that you can leave the plastic bottom of the GWS floats to save weight and assembly. Put shipping tape on the bottom of the foam. I have three planes on floats and am going to try this system next.

willyb
11-22-2005, 03:06 AM
Hi Don,

I made a set of the GWS floats for the GWS Beaver. Be sure when you cut the plastic to not leave any lip going outward from the float. You will have about 3/16" to 1/4" to overlap at the most. Then I roughed up the inner plastic where it would join the foam with 80 grit to get a good bite for my glue. I use Epoxy to have enough working time. Use tape over the joint to get a smooth joint and keep things together. I then checked them afterwards by submerging them under water. I found one little leak and added a bit more epoxy. Anyway, like I mentioned before in a post it took almost as long to do the floats as it did the Beaver! I guess this true on full scale stuff too as floats are extremely expensive for full scale planes. Good luck!
Bill

donjiskra
11-22-2005, 10:24 PM
I read somewhere that you can leave the plastic bottom of the GWS floats to save weight and assembly. Put shipping tape on the bottom of the foam. I have three planes on floats and am going to try this system next.

Looking at the GWS floats I don't see how one could not attach the plastic bottom. The design and purpose is essential!!!

The suggestions others have brought forward are excellent and a great help. Thanks!
Don

lindart aviation
11-25-2005, 04:53 AM
They look nice,weigh less,take off quicker,and don't leak - when modified to be flat bottomed...the step remaining intact. Sand flat with a 220 block and use 1/16 m.balsa cross grained for the bottoms. I used epoxy very sparingly for this. 3/8" spray rails on the insides only keep the prop and wing saddle dry. These are from 1/64 ply and are added after glassing. Glass entire float with 3/4oz cloth and MinWax polycrylic water based gloss clear. It is water proof when dry. Any color is Delta Ceram cote,followed by a coat of the MW clear.
3 sets flying off water with no float related operational problems.FWIW.

Bill G
12-25-2005, 11:03 PM
The plastic hulls need only the flat flange trimmed off the hull. The flange is needed in the molding process, otherwise the sides would come out of the mold wavy. I think these floats are excellent, with the smooth shiny plastic hulls, which reduce weight, and increase bouyancy since they are all air inside. Plain air is even more bouyant than foam.
They need to be well glued. No pinholes, or they can waterlog. I used 30 min epoxy. Don't use faster, cause you need the work time. As you assemble the plastic hull to the small mating recess on the foam top half, use masking tape to hod snug. Afterwards, I ran another smear around the entire seam, to fill any voids left.
--------------------
Bill G.

Did you mean: waterflyer (http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&rls=GGLD,GGLD:2004-14,GGLD:en&q=waterflyer&spell=1)
NO GOOGLE, if I meant waterflyer, I would have typed waterflyer!

donjiskra
12-26-2005, 03:14 AM
Thanks ill!
I assembled exactly as you described. Works great.
Don

ORION49
02-12-2007, 10:01 PM
I just did a set and it was not to easy if amature buider. I used a sharp razor blade or a new Xacto blade. I trimmed the plastic in 2 phases. Cut excess plastic off of and up above the first outward bend on the plastic. Then come back and carefully cut below the first outward mold on the flat part. This should leave about 1/8" of plastic on the rear of the float plastic to glue and more forward. Try a fit to see if it needs any more trimming. I fit the top to the bottom plastic first to determin the fit before glueing. I pushed it toward the rear of the float step first to test the fit I then glued the front sector and then the rear sector using a FOAM Safe Ca glue. Taping will help also if you have enough fingers. After glue sets up I us a Hot Glue gun and run a very light bead all around the float to seal any openings in the seam. I wet my finger to help smooth it out as I go. I flew the plane a few days ago and it worked great. These floats have little water resistance when taxiing.
A note also. I ran 2 layers of clear package tape on the plastic inside bottom of the floats before gluing to help stiffen the plastic from bangs into the plastic which could dent it. I do the same with plastic GWS cowls along the bottoms on the inside. I actually landed it on grass with no problems as it slipped right through the grass just like landing gear. The plastic is slippery.
**neons** Bob
Have you flown from snow?

**neons**
02-12-2007, 10:43 PM
I have been using these floats on my home made Stik that uses the indoor version of the GWS Stik wing with carbon arrow 1/4" shaft fuselage and carbon stiffners in the wing. . I use a BP Chinese motor rewound. It has loads of power and you can just jump in the air off the water or as I like to do is just skim along the water and do a slower realistic take off and touch downs. These GWS floats have been in use for the second winter now. I take off and land on grass, light fluffy snow, water , and ice. I do not recomend the ice to much as the temperature is cold and makes the plastic very brittle. I caught it before I lost a big peice of the plastic cracking. No more ice for me. It is a lot of fun on the water. I frown on salt water though. It wrecks electonics. Bag them. It will eat the battery terminals also as they are thin. I use a freshwater pond even though I have a salt water bay outside my door. These GWS floats are very nice. Also I found that "X" piano wiring the braces to keep them straight and non flexing is a good idea.
**neons** Bob

donjiskra
02-13-2007, 12:21 PM
Hi Bob,
Thanks for your comments. The GWS floats are excellent and work great on snow. Haven't tried ice but will take your advice.
I don't "waterproof" with a bag but use a spray product that is fantastic. It's called "CorrosionX ".
It compleatly protects ALL the electronic components. I've dunked and submerged my Stolp several times without any problems after recovery.
I've even sprayed the receiver.
Happy flying and thank's again,
Don

LannyG
02-17-2007, 03:58 AM
Where do you get "CorrosionX"?
LannyG

donjiskra
02-17-2007, 05:15 PM
LannyG,
You can order it online from:
http://www.greatlakescorrosion.com/index.php?cPath=21

I ordered the 8 oz spray can for $8.10 plus shipping.

Fantastic product, not only for waterproofing, works great for lubricating push rods as well. I had one that was rusting and binding. spraying it into the pushrod tubing solved the problem.

Don

Jim Casey
02-18-2007, 12:37 AM
Or straight from the source: http://www.corrosionx.com/

donjiskra
02-18-2007, 01:30 PM
Thanks Jim,
That's where I ordered my supply from. Very prompt service.
Don

LannyG
02-21-2007, 02:52 PM
Thanks guys!!
LannyG

Glacier Girl
02-21-2007, 09:23 PM
Ditto the Corrosion X, I use it on anything I fly in the winter, never had a water related problem. Don't try this at home but I also carefully did my Tx and it survived a dunking.
One of those Mr Murphy things. Land plane in a tree, right next to a stream, lean tx against said tree while climbing tree to retrieve plane. Knock plane loose from tree, and of course it hits the tx and it and the tx go into the stream. Moment of pure terror deciding which one to grab first, while hanging from tree. Happy to say both survived, well both survived that.

ElectricFlyGuy
02-22-2007, 05:10 AM
depending if you want to reuse your electronices> I have hear you can encase them in WAX. Don't know if this is a good idea though. Scott;)


Hi Bob,
Thanks for your comments. The GWS floats are excellent and work great on snow. Haven't tried ice but will take your advice.
I don't "waterproof" with a bag but use a spray product that is fantastic. It's called "CorrosionX ".
It compleatly protects ALL the electronic components. I've dunked and submerged my Stolp several times without any problems after recovery.
I've even sprayed the receiver.
Happy flying and thank's again,
Don

donjiskra
02-22-2007, 10:57 PM
CorrosionX works much better than wax!!!!

Bill G
03-12-2007, 05:10 PM
Recently, I got tired of my float gear mounts ripping out of the foam, on a GWS Beaver. I had CF rails glued along the bottom of the fuse, across the mounts, but they were still too highly stressed. The solution was to tie control line string from the front gear mount on the fuse, to the rear gear mount on the floats, on both sides. The string was tied off tight. This makes it like an x-brace. There is no need to run strings in the other direction, since you don't land backwards, I hope.:eek: They can barely be seen, and strenthen the mounts better than a mountain of epoxy would.

Bill

Murocflyer
04-28-2007, 01:00 PM
Great tip on the corrosionX.

Thanks,

Frank

Sam_K
12-29-2007, 09:22 AM
Hi guys, I know I'm resurrecting an old thread but can anyone tell me how much weight these GWS floats add to your model?

Cheers

bawbeeseboy
12-29-2007, 01:12 PM
with the stock wire mounts 3.4 oz. hope that helps