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View Full Version : HET Kits any good?


Twmaster
11-25-2005, 05:05 AM
I see a lot of the HET kits on Feebay at what seem decent pricing. One that I keep eyeballing is the Yak-1.

Are these kits (ARF actually) any good? Anybody flying one of the Yaks?

TIA!

Elfwreck
12-02-2005, 04:39 PM
Hey now, I've got the Yak1. I've built the P-40 for a friend, and another friend flys the Tucano. They all look very good with just a little work, mostly paint details like panel lines although the P-40 needed some extra paint to get the camo effect.
I fly the Yak with a Kontronik fun 400-23 using a 6-4 prop and draw around 25amps on 3s 2100 LiPos. It's pretty fast WOT about 90 mph.
It does nice big loops, small tight ones too if you really want, the roll rate is good too. The model is very stable in the air and doesn't get scetchy even going slow for landings, well as slow as it gets... It lands like a pylon racer, gets into ground effect and glides forever at a foot and a half high.
It's also pretty durable, I've cartwheeled mine a few times (ran out of landing room) and didn't hurt it much, found out it's easy to repair too:eek:
All of the small HET planes seem to fly like this, I'd buy another one:D
RobII

Twmaster
12-03-2005, 12:43 AM
Thanks Rob!

Turbojoe
12-03-2005, 12:48 AM
I have the MiniBipe that I tore the top wing off of doing snap rolls. This plane is a blast to fly! I also have the Tucano. It's a bit heavy for the wing area. It needs a LOT of horsepower to fly good. It's a great looking plane though. I need to drag mine out again. I really need to fix up the MiniBipe too. I'll make it snap roll damage proof this time. ;)


Joe

Elfwreck
12-03-2005, 05:09 PM
Hey now,
I don't think they're loaded any heavier than the K&A models in the same class. I don't know how they'd fly with a s400 can motor, but with brushless they leap out of your hand. Several folks are running Mega 1615-4s in them with good results, another has an Astro 020 in his.
So far their all good. Haven't tried the bipe though, I don't care for rudder elevator planes...
RobII

greenflight
12-09-2005, 03:21 AM
I've had great flights with my P-40 with my self would Komodo 283 in it.
It flies very fast, straight and solid. Great little planes. I got two for $39 apiece on Ebay a while back. I added some extra stuff to make it look more scale. I like them, thinking of trying some other types.

termite
04-04-2006, 10:39 PM
Haven't tried the bipe though, I don't care for rudder elevator planes...
RobII

The MicroBipe is FULL HOUSE.

Randy
www.dynamoelectrics.com

Insagor
05-25-2006, 02:15 AM
TWMaster,
I love my Yak-1!! I am on my second one in fact. I had a "dumb" issue with my radio not with the plane. I'm running a b/l 450FT and 3S 2100 LiPo pack and it's a blast. The only issue that I have with them is that the cowls are pretty thin and will crack if you look at them wrong.
You can put a 8x3.8 and have plenty of thrust for general flying or go with a small prop and be a speed demon.
I also changed mine over to 4 channel. Gotta have rudder!

Dave

Twmaster
05-25-2006, 02:18 AM
Hmmm...

Saw them on FeeBay again this evening. Must resist urge to buy (for a little while anyhow ;))

jimx5000
07-08-2006, 09:36 PM
Just got a tucano in the mail today. It seems like a very high quality kit. Hope to fly it soon.

Turbojoe
07-08-2006, 09:59 PM
My HET Tucano is sitting on the shelf right now. I didn't have enough power in it before. (75 watts) It flew ok but not dazzling. It would be a rocket with about 100-150 watts! It may be coming off the shelf again real soon.

I need to do the repairs to my HET Micro Bipe and get it in the air again. That plane is a riot. I ripped the top wing off doing repeated snap rolls! I'll probably add ailerons to the top wing just to make it even more violent. :eek:


Joe

Insagor
07-09-2006, 02:41 AM
MikeN,
I still have an HET Yak in the box if you get the urge. I bought three thinking they wouldn't last, oh how wrong I was! Even with the abuse, and my first few flights were pretty ugly due to power system testing, the plane has survived incredibly well. I had one flight that ended up nosing in (okay, it was tall grass) from about 150' and all I did was replace the prop and the plane was ready to fly again. I did end up lowering the throws on the ailerons though because you can set the plane up to basically just spiral through the air. My first plane did finally die, pilot stupidity of selecting the wrong plane. #2 is still going strong, I have a video on my site if you are interested: http://www.geocities.com/mohr_dave/yak.html

Dave

easytiger
07-10-2006, 07:08 PM
My two cents?
They represent a superb value for the money. Well-built and covered balsa models for an amazing price. I have the tony. I don't really care for the scale appearance of the warbirds, but others seem to like them. On the other hand, the Keith Rider Racers look great. These planes are going for dirt cheap now, grab one.

Bill G
07-22-2006, 10:47 PM
My two cents?
They represent a superb value for the money. Well-built and covered balsa models for an amazing price. I have the tony. I don't really care for the scale appearance of the warbirds, but others seem to like them. On the other hand, the Keith Rider Racers look great. These planes are going for dirt cheap now, grab one.
I like those Keith Riders too. I keep looking at them at Dynamo.

I have the MiniBipe that I tore the top wing off of doing snap rolls. This plane is a blast to fly! I also have the Tucano. It's a bit heavy for the wing area. It needs a LOT of horsepower to fly good. It's a great looking plane though. I need to drag mine out again. I really need to fix up the MiniBipe too. I'll make it snap roll damage proof this time. ;)
Joe
What did it fly like as a monoplane?:eek:
Did it stay in the air after that event?

Turbojoe
07-22-2006, 11:24 PM
What did it fly like as a monoplane?:eek:
Did it stay in the air after that event?

Bill,

It didn't completely depart the aircraft. The front struts tore out and the wing flipped up creating a massive airbrake. I was able to make a less than smooth landing with little other damage. I think it would fly as a monoplane but the wing loading would be pretty high. I'm sure it would be a handfull.


Joe

Cookie
01-20-2008, 07:53 AM
Elfwreck or Insagor, I'm assembling an HET P-40 now. A few questions for you.

I was wondering about attaching the canopy so that it would be removable in case I wanted to take the elevator servo out. I see where Insagor used small nyrod on the inside of the fuselage to attach screws though the canopy and then into the nyrod pieces. Good idea.

How are you inserting the flight battery into the fuselage since there isn't a hatch or door for that purpose?

Where are you putting the flight battery?


Thanks, Cookie

Insagor
01-20-2008, 03:20 PM
Cookie,
The wing is held on with one screw, so I really couldn't see any savings in making a battery hatch on the plane. So, to swap batteries, I just pop the wing off and remove/replace the battery. I was able to stuff a 3S 2100mAh pack up front through the bulkhead. Take off the wing and you will see the opening just forward of where the LE of the wing mates to the fuse. I had to open mine just a tad for one of my batteries. The battery can't move back because it would hit the wing, at least on the Yak-1. You can always stuff a little foam rubber on the sides as an insurance policy though.

And, yes, the removable canopy is a nice-to-have if you plan on doing detail work later. The other option is to use clear packing tape, like some of the glider guys use for hinges. It comes off of the covering cleanly and sticks well enough for the canopies. It just depends if you are painting the canopy or not. I wouldn't trust it to not take off the paint.

How long before you get to fly her?

Dave

Cookie
01-20-2008, 04:28 PM
Insagor, Thanks for the info.
I've got the hinged parts together and the wing and belly pan assembled and attached to the body with the screw. I still have to glue on the horizontal and verticle stabs but I bought the clear covered model so Im going to have to paint it and do some detailing. The P-40 has always been one of my favorite WW2 fighter planes because of the looks, so I'm going to take my time and try to do a really nice detailing job on this one. I have plenty of other planes that are flying, but I couldn't pass this one up when I saw it on eBay. With this particular model being covered in clear Oracoat, I can really appreciate the fine wood finishing that they did when making it. It looks more like a guitar body finish than a model airplane. All of the glue joints are just perfect and there aren't any dings or marks in the wood. A beautiful job. Thanks again for the info.

Insagor
01-20-2008, 08:40 PM
Cookie.
Thanks for the update. Have you figured out a power system for your P-40? Just curious, I've done a bunch of trial and error with my Yak-1 and finally settled on a system that let's me have all of the power and speed I want, and when I want more of either, it's just one prop away.

Dave

Cookie
01-20-2008, 10:24 PM
Insagor, I'm planning to try a HiMax HA 2025-5300 inrunner without the gear system. I'd like to use an outrunner but it doesn't look like there's enough room inside of the cowl for an outrunner to spin, so I'll have to try an inrunner direct drive. The HiMax is 175 Watts max, 25 amps Max 5300 KV and uses a 4x3 prop. The prop might be a little small. What do you think?

Insagor
01-21-2008, 03:38 AM
Cookie,
I have a justgofly.com 450F spinning a 7x5 prop and a 3S 2100 pack. It's been clocked on a straight and level run at 73mph. This still has plenty of thrust for most people, but when I want to really climb, I stick an 8x3.8 on it. It's silly. For speed, you can go to the 6x5.5 or 6.5x5.5. The owner's name is Vinnie and is extremely helpful in getting a set-up that works, for YOU, not just the generic public. He also tests everything he sells, which I find very refreshing. I've also found that I really can't beat his prices anywhere else. I used to run the AXIs and even the himax you mentioned, but you will need to spin a small prop if you want to drive it straight. You would be better running the 4200 version, and even then, you will need a small prop. Just my $0.02. I did run a Cermark 480 inrunner once and it flew pretty well with the 8x3.8. But, the 450 is lighter and spins better.

Dave

Cookie
01-21-2008, 08:14 AM
Dave,
I looked at the JUSTGOFLY website. The 450F looks like an outrunner. Am I correct? If so, how did you manage to get it to fit inside of that cowl? Another question. I tried to fit the cowl onto the fuselage but the motor mount rails stick out far enough where it the cowl won't slide back far enough to attach it to the fuselage. Did you have to trim the motor mount rails back to make room for the cowl to fit?

Insagor
01-21-2008, 01:08 PM
Cookie,
I didn't have issues with the rails on my plane hitting the front of the cowl. But, it's always possible that someone made a mistake when assembling your plane.

Yes, the 450F is an outrunner. If you look at the dimensions, you should be able to tell if it will fit or not. There are a couple of options for mounting as well. Vinnie has some motor mounts that are pretty much just angle brackets with the mounting holes in them in addition to more of a gearbox mount - if you went with the front mount, or, what I would suggest, is to go with the X mount, hack off the two beams and if you need to move the motor forward, there are a few options. I've used both wood and aluminum tubing to move the motors forward. I've included a photo of one of my larger setups using the tubes. I used the angle brackets on my Yak-1, just because I didn't know any better at the time:red:

Also, remember that the motor will sit inside of the cowl a little because of the collet for the prop. It may not be a lot, but it sounds like every little bit will help for your cowl. I'm not sure what the difference is between the two planes cowls, but I thought you would have more room in the P-40 cowl compared to the Yak.

I can take a photo of my current set-up if you like when I get home tonight, let me know. I'll also send this thread to Vinnie to see if he has any other suggestions or how to measure the cowl to ensure for fit.

Dave

Cookie
01-21-2008, 03:25 PM
I've got outrunners here that are just looking for a plane to go into. I'll have to take a look and see how one would set up inside of the cowl. First thing to do is trim the rails back until the cowl fits correctly, then go from there.

Insagor
01-21-2008, 03:50 PM
Cookie,
Cool. Otherwise, I received a note from Vinnie that the 500T replaced the 450FT that I have running in my Yak-1. (on a side note, I have two of the 500's in a 51.5" P-38 that I can't wait to maiden!)

Good luck!

Dave

Cookie
01-21-2008, 03:53 PM
Dave,
Looking at the pictures of the HET Yak on your homepage, it looks like the front area of the plane is very close in design to the P-40. Motor mount railing and cross piece etc..

Cookie
01-21-2008, 08:26 PM
Dave,
Well, well, well. I finally broke down and tried lining up an outrunner inside the cowl. Guess what. Plenty of room. More room than I expected. Lesson learned. Don't try to guess whether it'll fit. Try it. :red:

Cookie
01-23-2008, 08:22 PM
YES!!!! The outrunner fits!! Whoopie! First, I cut the motor mount rails back a 1/4" at a time and tested fitted the cowl each time until it slid on far enough to mount it onto the fuselage. Then I cut the motor mount rails and balsa wood back to the first small bulkhead and mounted the X mount as a "cross" instead of an X. See photos. Keep in mind, there are no washers in place to off-set the motor. Just a test mount.

jismail
01-25-2008, 05:49 PM
I built the HET P40 kit. It has some really nice quality for the price, but be aware the directions are lacking, and you will need to improvise on a few things. The bottom of the fuselage lacks an attachment device for the front so you will need to make one, and if you want a rudder, you will need to remove the servo plate and make your own dual servo tray. I also didnt want the battery velcroed to the wing so I made a removable battery tray that fits in the front bay and covers the electronics where I have my battery. I needed about 1 oz of clay in the nose to balance it out once I have the motor and all installed, and it feels a bit heavy, but with the 7x4 prop, it feels like it has pleanty of poop to fly without over torqueing on takeoff...

Weather is bad right now so I cant maiden for awhile.... cant hardly wait!!

Here she is:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v456/cj5_fan/0120081634.jpg

Cookie
01-25-2008, 06:40 PM
jismail, Nice looking job. Many questions for you. What did you use for the exhaust stacks? What did you use for the (machine guns or vents?) on top front of the cowl? The elevator servo goes in that cut out piece (servo plate) under the rear of the canopy roof which is built in and hard to get to. How did you secure the servo(s) in place with that wood roof in the way? I can't figure out how I'd screw the servo in place. I'm not going to add a rudder control. You made the "removable battery tray" to fit in the area between the front bulkhead (with the oval hole) and the one that the front of the wing plugs into (with the slot for the "wing dowel")? I tried a 3S 2200 mah Lipo and it fits in that area but there wouldn't be any room for a "tray". Well, I guess I could make a "Battery tray" but it would have to lean forward with the front end lower. "The bottom of the fuselage lacks an attachment device for the front so you will need to make one" What attachment device? For bungee launching?
Thanks

The instructions are lacking, but I have a lot of experience building, so that didn't bother me too much. I'm attaching the canopy with small screws so that I can remove it if I have to replace the elevator servo. I glued little ply pieces on the inside of the fuselage for all attachment points so that the screws would have something to "grab" onto instead of just sheet balsa. Did the same for the cowl screws.

Cookie
01-25-2008, 07:30 PM
Duh!! I just looked at the plane and realised that I can mount the elevator servo upside down through the wing opening. :o

jismail
01-26-2008, 09:20 PM
1

jismail
01-26-2008, 09:22 PM
jismail, Nice looking job. Many questions for you. What did you use for the exhaust stacks? What did you use for the (machine guns or vents?) on top front of the cowl? The elevator servo goes in that cut out piece (servo plate) under the rear of the canopy roof which is built in and hard to get to. How did you secure the servo(s) in place with that wood roof in the way? I can't figure out how I'd screw the servo in place. I'm not going to add a rudder control. You made the "removable battery tray" to fit in the area between the front bulkhead (with the oval hole) and the one that the front of the wing plugs into (with the slot for the "wing dowel")? I tried a 3S 2200 mah Lipo and it fits in that area but there wouldn't be any room for a "tray". Well, I guess I could make a "Battery tray" but it would have to lean forward with the front end lower. "The bottom of the fuselage lacks an attachment device for the front so you will need to make one" What attachment device? For bungee launching?
Thanks

The instructions are lacking, but I have a lot of experience building, so that didn't bother me too much. I'm attaching the canopy with small screws so that I can remove it if I have to replace the elevator servo. I glued little ply pieces on the inside of the fuselage for all attachment points so that the screws would have something to "grab" onto instead of just sheet balsa. Did the same for the cowl screws.


I'm sure there are many ways to do this plane but this is what i did:

I built a deck over the electronics for the batter to sit on. I had to clip away the bottom of the center spar to let the tray fit and have the battery level, but it didnt seem to be crucial to the strength of the frame so I cut it away.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v456/cj5_fan/IMG_2563.jpg

For the bottom mount, I used a GWS wing attachment assembly and glued it on to the front, and added a front piece of wood to the bottom cover to accept the other GWS piece and create the easy on-off attachement.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v456/cj5_fan/IMG_2559.jpg

For the servos, I removed the existing deck and made a 2 slot one and put it in a bit lower so I could have the attachments ontop.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v456/cj5_fan/IMG_2555.jpg


For the guns and exhaust, I used scrap styrofoam and just glued it to the fuselage and painted.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v456/cj5_fan/0120081632b.jpg

Cookie
01-26-2008, 10:49 PM
jismail, Thanks for the info and photos. Now I see what you mean by the "front" where you used the GWS wing mount to hold the wing on, by incorporating the belly pan. Good idea. I'm still working on detailing it before I apply the paint.
Thanks,
Cookie

Cookie
01-31-2008, 03:25 AM
Well, it's not done yet, but here's what it looks like so far. I puttied along the joint between the fairings and the fuselage to eliminate that seam. I sanded the putty and "feathered" it to blend on both sides but I should have primered the putty before painting the plane. Will have to go back and sand and primer that area and re-paint there. Same case with the air scoop on top of the cowl. After I get that worked out, I'll do the panel lines in thin ink from an ink drafting set. I painted it medium green instead of olive drab, based on information from a Squadrom Scale Models book. Color? I like camo and I like olive drab, but decided to be different. I made the gauges for the dashboard in AutoCad and printed it on photo quality paper.