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CorsairJock
11-29-2005, 02:09 PM
I'm surprised that there are no other H-9 Corsair conversion threads thus far, so I'll start this one. I welcome any and all others to share info on their H-9 Corsair conversions: please list any and all info and pics in this thread, as well as likes and dislikes of this aircraft, your power setup, etc.

This is my Hangar 9 Corsair, powered by the ever popular AXI 4130/16, swinging DynaTrust 14 x 8 prop. It first flew in April, 2005, and now has over 100 flights on it (as of Nov, 2005).

I'll start out with info on my airframe, as it obviously does not look like a Hanger 9 Corsair:

All up weight is 8 lbs, 6 oz (134 oz., or 3.8 kg). This includes the 6S, 4400 mAh Li-Poly battery pack.

The airframe was completely re-finished: all original covering was re-moved. After performing numerous mods to it, the framed up areas (outer wings, stab, rudder) were covered with CoverRite flat gray. The remaining, balsa covered areas were covered with 1/2 oz/ yd fiberglass cloth, with hi-stress areas getting multiple layers.

The cowling is a modified Top Flite Corsair cowl. It is more scale accurate, sturdier, AND has less frontal area (lower drag), but is does weigh more than the Hanger 9 version (by several oz).

The canopy is a Top Flite Corsair canopy, which also is more scale accurate but heavier than the Hanger 9 one.

The fin and rudder have been strengthened, as it has been my experience that Corsairs are prone to tip-overs, and subsequently the fin and rudder are more easily damaged than most other warbirds.

As mentioned earlier, there are numerous mods/ scale details added. Biggest one is a completely new firewall, with scale cowl flap area. Other mods include simulated scale exhaust stacks, machine gun ports, radio mast, & tailhook opening.

The completed airframe was painted using an old Miller hobby airbrush system, using custom mixed Behr exterior semi-gloss paints. The 1943 style national markings are from old Top Flite 'red box' Corsair decal sheets. The Jolly Rogers emblem made by me with Testors (water transfer) Decal Kit and my HP printer.The scheme is my best attempt at duplicating the F4U-1A flown by Navy ace Lt Streig, of VF-17/ Jolly Rogers Squadron fame.

These pictures were taken while I was visiting the Howell, MI R/C club field. My thanks go to the photographer for taking and e-mailing to me these VERY nice pictures.

Matt Kirsch
11-29-2005, 03:18 PM
Impressive!

There have been a few conversions of this particular plane, most notably in my mind is one Greg Covey did about two years ago with the same AXi motor. No offense to Greg, but yours is much better looking :) I believe there was a conversion of this plane at SEFF this past spring with Eflite's new "60" outrunner motor, which is very similar to the AXi in specifications.

That the plane's been out for a couple of years now is probably why there isn't a whole lot of "buzz" surrounding it or any electric conversions thereof. Myself, I'm running the AXi setup in a H9 P-40, which is similar in size, weight, and flying style to the Corsair (i.e. it's a heavy-metal warbird, not a 3D foamie). I'm running a 6S BalanceProHD and 15x8 Graupner billy club.

Neither of us is taking advantage of the power these motors can handle. We're babying them, but then again, do you want blistering speed or a nice scale flight?

CorsairJock
11-29-2005, 04:24 PM
Thanks, Matt.

I don't really think of it as 'babying' this motor. Altho it is certainly capable of delivering a lot more power, I aim for maximum efficiency. And, according to at least 2 sources, maximum efficiency occurs when the motor is drawing about 24 amps when supplied with 6S Li-Poly battery source. My goal is to set it up so that maximum static draw is about 125% of most efficient draw, so that it will likely be at the most efficient draw when the aircraft is airborne (when current draw is less).

I have noticed that a lot of people are using 15" props with this motor (AXI 4130/16), and pulling well over 30 amps static. I have found that the 14" props provide plenty of power for this aircraft, while keeping the load to under 30 amps. This provides me with over 12 minutes of flight time (per charge), and has all the speed and performance that I need for scale flight. Takeoffs and climbouts are with authority, but are by no means skyrocket like.

This has become a VERY popular motor for aircraft this size, and all of the Hangar 9 Warbird ARFs in particular. If you really want the skyrocket performance, it can be there with this motor. I chose it long before I realized how popular it was, and am glad I did. It even has a nice, sorta scale look where it pokes thru the dummy radial. The motor and speed controller can be had for about the same price as a 4 stroke engine for this aircraft.

This pic was taken in the spring (2005) by my wife. A lot of the details show up in this one, including the above mentioned AXI motor protruding from the dummy radial (motor was painted to match).

Geoff_Gino
11-30-2005, 06:18 AM
Currently flying a Hanger9 F4U Corsair

Specs of the plane:
Hanger9 60" F4U Corsair
Standard JR 539 servo's
JR700 Slimline receiver
Hitec retract servo (95 oz)
JR 2610 Tx
TopFlight cockpit kit
Graupner 15x8 3 blade prop (being spun at 6980 rpm)
Axi 4130/16 brushless motor
Jeti 77 ESC
UBEC
2 3S Kokam 3,2 Amp cells in series
All Up Weight 4 Kg (8,18 lbs)

Full throttle draws 50 amp and I am getting 10 minutes flying.

Geoff

CorsairJock
11-30-2005, 01:31 PM
TopFlight cockpit kit
Graupner 15x8 3 blade prop (being spun at 6980 rpm)
Full throttle draws 50 amp and I am getting 10 minutes flying.
Geoff

Got Pics?
Sure would like to see how well that big 3 bladed prop looks, AND that cockpit kit.

I considered using a Master Airscrew 3 blade 14 x 7 on mine, and still consider it from time to time. I know it would work, just that efficiency would drop a little. I have tested it, and found current draw to be 31 amps: still in a very reasonable range.

I have used a variety of 2 blade 14" props on mine, including a wide blade Master Airscrew 14 x 6, Master Airscrew Scmitar (dark gray 'Antique')14 x 7, and now the DynaThrust 14 x 8. All have worked well, the DynaTrust seems to be giving me the best top speed. Current draw is 27.5 amps static with it, while all the others were in the low 20s. I think I like the DynaTrust most because it looks more scale than the others. But the 3 blade would certainly look better yet.

For batteries, I am using a pair of 3S Li-Poly packs (connected in series for 6S) rated 4400 mAh, 8C. I got them thru eBay for about $80 each, for a total of $160. They weigh 11.5 oz each, and so far have worked out very well.

Picture was taken late Sat evening at the 2005 (July) Mid America Electric Fly-In held at Northville, MI

Geoff_Gino
11-30-2005, 02:43 PM
Only pics I have at the moment don't really show the prop. Had a mishap recently and I am still waiting for a prop from the LHS, who assures me it's "On order"

Geoff
P.S. 2nd picture should jog your memory.

vax6335
03-06-2006, 06:06 PM
Seeing this airplane makes me want to convert my Top Flite Corsair to e-power. All I have built so far is the fuse. Do you think the Top Flite kit can be lightnened up enough to convert it or should I just buy a Hanger 9 Corsair?

CorsairJock
03-06-2006, 06:22 PM
Seeing this airplane makes me want to convert my Top Flite Corsair to e-power. All I have built so far is the fuse. Do you think the Top Flite kit can be lightnened up enough to convert it or should I just buy a Hanger 9 Corsair?

The main issue would be weight. BUT, if you have followed the 'Real Radial Sound' thread at all, you may be aware that their Hanger 9 Corsair now weighs over 10 lbs, has same AXI motor (4130/16), and still manages to LEAP into the air. The Top Flites typically come in around 9 lbs (sometimes less) with retracts & flaps (IF covered with iron on covering), so they are only marginally heavier than the Hangar 9 ones. That said, it should be NO PROBLEM.

Whether you convert it to electric or not, I believe it would benefit you (and your model) if you read thru this thread:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_964836/tm.htm

If you decide to convert it, I suggest (and hope) that you begin a new thread and post your progress here at WattFlyer.

CorsairJock
11-09-2007, 12:06 AM
Bump. OK, I know we're not supposed to do it, but this thread is really buried, and I thoughtit might be of interest to a new generation of readers.

BTW, the Corsair is still going strong after 3 full flying seasons. Still using original retracts, but I keep wanting to upgrade.

Glacier Girl
11-09-2007, 03:30 PM
Hey CJ, I'm keeping tabs. Though mine isn't the H9.
I'm going with the N/P 120 Corsair, but I'll be honest I followed your other threads on the Corsair, and am going to use a lot of what you and the others did on both the H9 and TF versions.

On mine I'm planning on hiding the tail controls inside the tail, the N/P is a fiberglass fuselage, so lots of room to work back there. Ditto installing the retract tail wheel.

Still scratching my head on the flap set up, may go with rods like Al did on his Hawk, or maybe even try and figure out the cable set up it came with.

Mark Wood
11-15-2007, 10:34 PM
CorsairJock:

Mebbe bumping is a nono but I'm glad you did it. I'm in the process of a H9 Corsair conversion as we speak. Got the wing glued together and I'm just about to install the battery tray and servo tray. I'm building a fresh servo tray since I'm going to mount the rudder and elevator servos where the throttle servo goes. Having them in the rear per the instructions would yield a tailheavy model (I think) and I want to avoid that as much as possible. Linkage will be via sturdy and stiff but light carbon fiber tubing. I don't really plan on any large scale mods. I just want a larger Corsair to fly.
The power system is centered around a NeuMotors 1910/2y ORK and 6s NeuEnergy 4900s generating up to 1500 watts if I want it. A Castle Creations Phoenix 80HV will control power to either a Master Airscrew 13x8 three-blade or an APC-E 14x8.5 two blade depending on how and where I'm flying. Simple flaperons mixed from the Futaba 9C will keep things simple but slow it down for those shorter runways. This is my first conversion but I live next to a lifelong modeler (Steve Belknap of Diversity Model Aircraft (http://flydma.com/catalog/) and distributor for NeuMotors (http://www.neumotors.com/20061222/Welcome.html)) so that should help. Seeing the ones you guys have built is a bit humbling (not easy for me to say) but so far I'm having fun and the F4U has been a love of mine since Baa Baa Black Sheep, ya know? :)

mw

CorsairJock
11-16-2007, 01:08 AM
CorsairJock:
............. I'm building a fresh servo tray since I'm going to mount the rudder and elevator servos where the throttle servo goes. Having them in the rear per the instructions would yield a tailheavy model (I think) and I want to avoid that as much as possible.

................Simple flaperons mixed from the Futaba 9C will keep things simple but slow it down for those shorter runways.
mw

These do not tend to be tail heavy, even with the servos in the tail. But to be safe: I installed lighter servos in the tail of mine. Having a battery pack to move around sure leaves a lot of 'room for error'. I have come to appreciate the more positive response and not having to always re-trim, that comes with having servos close to the surfaces that they are moving.

Flaperons is Definately a bad idea on a plane such as this. Flaperons only work well with full span ailerons. If they are not full span (such as onthis Corsair): they could easily induce tip stalls, which of course leads to crash landings.

Modified or not: it's good to hear that others are electrifying their H9 Corsairs. It's a great flyer, and you'll enjoy it.

Mark Wood
11-16-2007, 02:41 AM
How heavy is your motor, Jock? The battery I can look up. The Neu is pretty light at 10 ounces.

mw

CorsairJock
11-16-2007, 10:26 AM
I don't remember, it's been 3 years since I weighed it. I DO remeber that it was lighter than any fuel powered engine which would be appropriate for this plane, I'm guessing maybe 14 oz or so?

The point Iwas tryingto make tho: the motor power battery pack can be located as far ahead as you want, into the fuel tank area if needed. This allows PLENTY of room to compensate for a tail heavy plane, if it ends up so.

Also, just as you don't want it tail heavy: you really don't want it nose heavy either (re-read 1st post). Biggest problem with even SLIGHTLY nose heavy Corsairs: they tend to tip over/ nose over on landings WAY too easily. When that happens: the fin and/ or rudder WILL break. In fact, I highly recommend to ANYONE building ANY Corsair: STENGTHEN the FIN and RUDDER if at all possible. It may add a few grams, maybe up to 10, but it is well worth it.

CorsairJock
11-16-2007, 10:29 AM
According to this VERY useful site:
http://brantuas.com/ezcalc/dma1.asp
my AXI 4130/16 weighs "11.28" oz

Mark Wood
11-16-2007, 01:59 PM
I'll be using HS-475HBs for servos all around. Still don't see a tailheavy issue? If not, I'll just build per plans and quit worryiing about it.

mw

CorsairJock
11-17-2007, 12:29 AM
I keep meaning to do it, but I just haven't found the time to memorize the specs on every servo made. Therfor: I have no idea how heavy (or light) your servos are.

vax6335
11-17-2007, 12:39 AM
CorsairJock,
I haven't done anything with my Top Flite Corsair, but I've been reading your big thread on RCU about making it more scale. That's a great thread, I'm definitely going to use lots of those tricks and tips from there. Thanks!

Mark Wood
11-17-2007, 07:05 AM
My bad. They're 40 grams. (1.41 oz.)

I now remember looking through your mods thread when I first got my H9 kit.
Darned impressive work, amigo! :)

mw

CorsairJock
11-17-2007, 10:24 AM
1.4 oz is about the same as the Futaba S-3004s that I like to use: both relatively light for a standard servo, so they are good choices.

Thanks guys, good to hear that that thread (Top Flite Corsair Mods) is getting some use/ is useful to some. I think the most important thing in that thread is the rudder mods, which not only make it look better but also strengthen it.
And with the H9 Corsair: the fin could also use some strengthening. I have found that a solid sheet balsa fin weighs about the same as the built up one (must be all the glue), but is a LOT stronger.

kgbester
11-23-2007, 09:26 AM
Hello, I have converted a Hangar9 Corsair (as well as a P47 and Camel) to electric power. I use Dualsky electrics in all my planes. The F4U and the P47 both have the older Dualsky PR.40 motors with the Camel uses the newer 4250. Props are APC 15x8E on the F4U and P47 while I use a 14x7E on the Camel.

Batteries are also Dualsky, 4000Mah 5S1P packs and give about 10-12 of flight. I use 4S1P 3700Mah packs in the camel for about 10 minutes of flying.

I found a 13x8E prop to be ineffective with the wide mouth on the Corsair and P47. I want to try out the 14x8E on these to see if it will give me the same flying speed at the same RPM with reduced current draw.

For reduced weight, and seeing that I am more interested in flying scale than ripping up the sky, I use JR331 servos (rated at 3.1Kg) and they seem to do the job just fine on these 60 sized warbirds.

With the lighter Corsair (and the others) I find landings are quite easy and slow. Just after I put a seperate pack in for the RX and servos (and removed the red wire on the BEC) I had a ESC lead come loose. Just glided her in and belly landed on the grass next to the paved runway and all was fine.

kgbester
11-23-2007, 09:28 AM
BTW Geoff, where did you get the scale cockpit?

adwb
02-17-2008, 11:53 AM
for all the Corsair builders and modification of H( fans here is a great link
http://www.f4ucorsair.com/tdata/blueprints.html

alistair

adwb
02-17-2008, 02:09 PM
Hi can some one please suggest how you connect/disconnect the main battery at the flight lline with out removing the wing?
I am converting a ex gas H9 Corsair using A123 battery and Scorpion 4020-16 brushless motor,with hyperion 85hv esc and 3 blade master prop i will be adding engine sound as well.
Here in England the British Model Flying Association clubs require this and indeed their post flight exam routines call for this action,

"(h) Remove model and equipment from the take-off/landing area.
The candidate should NOT take their transmitter with them when retrieving their model and it should be left with a competent person. If no one else is available to hold it then you should offer. When the model has been retrieved and returned to the pits area the transmitter
should be returned to the pilot.
Remember that electric models must be assumed to be ‘live’ until the flight battery has been disconnected and the handling of the aircraft by the candidate must reflect this during retrieval and in the pits area."
Regards
Adwb

kgbester
02-17-2008, 07:33 PM
Its quite easy if you have a switch on the ESC. I have a switch between my RX and Servo pack as well as a switch on the ESC. From the outside of the plane I can de-activate the motor as well as the radio gear. It's much easier than having to open the wing.

I also have a Hyperion Ki-84 and and put a Deans connector in-line on the red wire on the ESC. The connector sits in the airscoop and I just plug another connecter with a loop to make the circuit on the ESC / battery, this also works well.

If you are not sure what I mean I can try and find the original link where I saw the idea.

Glacier Girl
02-20-2008, 05:24 PM
adwb, my kill switch is a pair of Deans.
Power lead from pack runs to one of the terminals on the female Deans, then back to the esc, from the other one. Male Deans with a short half loop of wire soldered and covered to the terminals, becomes the "key" to turn on/off the power to everything.

I hide mine under a removable pilot.
Open the canopy, and remove the pilot, and there's the kill switch.

Mark if you want really sturdy controls for the ailerons, might want to look at something like this. Actuators. Instead of servo arms and control horns/linkages all hanging out there, this is all hidden in the wing, and accessable via the normal servo hatch. I built and installed these in the CMP 120 scale ARF Corsair. If you're building one it would be quite easy to put them in.

thrawn150
03-28-2008, 07:06 PM
I would love to get one of these, except right now I do not think I can afford the price for it. Most I could spend would be like 700. :{

CorsairJock
03-28-2008, 08:31 PM
I would love to get one of these, except right now I do not think I can afford the price for it. Most I could spend would be like 700. :{
Have you done your math? Depending on what you already may have, seems like $700 should do it.

thrawn150
03-28-2008, 09:12 PM
Then 2 things, one is I have never done a conversion. I have done arfs before, H9 Pulse XT 40 (power 46) is this beyond basic building? also can I use HS-821 servos with this plane?

CorsairJock
03-29-2008, 12:01 AM
Then 2 things, one is I have never done a conversion. I have done arfs before, H9 Pulse XT 40 (power 46) is this beyond basic building?

I would say: yes, it is beyond basic building. It requires a little imagination and fabrication skills. I don't do these things for a living, but I can figure things out.


...................can I use HS-821 servos with this plane?

I Keep telling myself: ONE of these days I am going to memorize the specs of every servo made (past and present). Until that day: I do not have a clue as to how big or small these servos are.

CorsairJock
07-19-2008, 11:11 PM
Now on it's 4th flying season, the retracts will soon be replaced by a set of Lado electric retracts. They should arrive in a week or 2.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_7496349/mpage_1/key_Lado/tm.htm

clt12981
07-19-2008, 11:26 PM
First F4U was CMP 58 in. Second F4U is the new Hangar9 F4U. 65.5 in wing span, E-Flite Power 60, 5000mah 6s Battery, phoenix 80 esc, AR6200 receiver with 1320mah 2s Thunder Power Battery and Castle 10amp bec.

Got to love those F4U's

Chuck

clt12981
07-19-2008, 11:58 PM
:<:Here's servo chart for you.

http://www.fatlion.com/sailplanes/servochart.html

Can't get chart to come up, but this is web-site shows all spec's on servos.

Chuck

pvtzemerak
07-23-2008, 06:06 PM
seems like a beautifull plane, nice with the retracts, how nice does she fly without the icky gas? :)

--pvt

CorsairJock
09-05-2008, 01:30 AM
After all these year (4), finally a descent video. The background niose is a A**hole helecopter that decided to fly at the same time I did. The video shows a near miss.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_i0cxQAuXXo

BTW: I have replaced the AXI 4130/16 with a 4130/20, and have a Master Aiscrew 3 blade 14 x 9 on it

adwb
12-11-2008, 05:56 PM
Am I correct in assuming that a electric motor is mounted at 90 degrees horizontally and vertically to the standard Hanger 9 corsair firewall?
It looks like the H9 supplied glow mounts bolt straight to the fire wall with out any offset to allow for thrust?
Adwb????

clt12981
12-11-2008, 07:23 PM
No, I believe the stock firewall is offset.

Chuck

CorsairJock
12-11-2008, 08:36 PM
Am I correct in assuming that a electric motor is mounted at 90 degrees horizontally and vertically to the standard Hanger 9 corsair firewall?
...................

AXI motor bolted directly to the firewall with AXI radial mount kit. I needed to add plywood spacer (1/4"?)between motor and firewall tho.

....................It looks like the H9 supplied glow mounts bolt straight to the fire wall with out any offset to allow for thrust?
Adwb????

Firewall has built in offset. No need to use (heavy) H-9 motor mount with "E" power.

adwb
12-12-2008, 07:46 AM
thanks guys
Adwb:)

CorsairJock
12-12-2008, 10:39 AM
Come to think of it, I had to build a 'box' to attach the motor to, as I had to 'extend' the firewall forward much more than the previously suggested 1/4 inch.

CRB
01-13-2009, 04:50 PM
Chuck,

How are the lado retracts holding up? Especially on grass field.. I am installing mine currently in my Corsair and fly at a grass field. Also, still running 6s with your AXI? I am looking for similar set up as I have a bunch of 6s from my Heli's...

Thanks

clt12981
01-13-2009, 07:33 PM
CRB
No probs with the Lado's. Still running 6s on my E-flite Power 60.
Chuck

CRB
01-13-2009, 07:40 PM
Chuck,

Very nice and thanks for the response. Last q....where did you get that 3 blade prop and spinner? My LHS has nothing....I am running the AXI.

clt12981
01-13-2009, 08:03 PM
CRB
Master Airscrew 16-8 3 Blade

Chuck

CRB
01-21-2009, 08:00 PM
Chuck...

Cory again....You addressed the firewall in an earlier post on this thread and yes....it is off set. However...a) is that needed on electric's (I assume so, just making sure....) and b) how do you mount the cowling then and not have it look rediculous? I used a solid mount that I have verified and re-verified is level, and with the firewall offset the cowling would have to point off to the right quite a bit just to get prop at center of opening.

Thanks for the help, again this is the first plane I have built. cb

clt12981
01-21-2009, 09:30 PM
No, Cory you mount the motor off center on the firewall so that the end of the Prop Shaft ends up in the center of the cowling, and or airframe.

Chuck

CRB
01-21-2009, 11:02 PM
crap.....well now i need to re-mount. Any tips on how to center to the cowl?

clt12981
01-21-2009, 11:27 PM
Pages 25, 26 and 27 of your manual show motor installation. The lines drawn and the hole on the firewall were there to show how much to offset motor so that the prop shaft would come out be in the center of firewall. A alternate way to do it would be, install cowl square to fuslage. Then insert motor and mount thru opening in cowl, hold in centered position and mark hole location for motor mount. but that's a pain.
Chuck

CRB
01-26-2009, 07:25 PM
Anyone have pics of how/where they mounted battery/esc/bec/receiver on their electric conversion? I am about finished with mine and wanted to see how a successfull conversion looked.....thanks in advance for any help.

groessie
02-22-2009, 02:18 PM
Can anyone provide a step by step procedure on how to convert the gas corsair to electric. Its new and not completely together yet, but I want to convert to electric;-)

adwb
02-22-2009, 06:17 PM
Most the questions and answers as far the electric motor mounting are in previous posts in this thread.
I mounted the esc along side my motor mounting which is a adjustable box type mount http://www.rcdude.com/servlet/the-1177/Firewall-Style-Mount%2C-Large/Detail

My battery pack is a 10s1p A123 battery pack fitted where the fuel tank was fitted.
servo/receiver battery, receiver ect all mounted as standard,I also use a seperate LiPo battery with a BEC for the u/c and a similar battery for the Benidini sound system.these I mounted to help get the COG correct
hope this helps a bit.
ADWB

Can anyone provide a step by step procedure on how to convert the gas corsair to electric. Its new and not completely together yet, but I want to convert to electric;-)

groessie
02-22-2009, 07:50 PM
Thanks for your help

adwb
06-30-2009, 01:29 PM
i'm sure there is a thread running some where on H9 flap add modification but i can't find it.
Can anyone point me to it??
regards
ADWB????

vax6335
12-30-2009, 03:11 AM
Thought I'd dig up this thread. I'm planning an electric conversion for my Hanger 9 Corsair. I've got two Common Sense RC 3s 6000mah batteries for it, have a Phoenix 85HV esc on the way, and I'll be looking for an E-flite Power 60 or Axi if I can find one cheap enough.

It's currently got a Saito 100 on it, with a few flights since I've owned it.
Some pictures here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1083286 and video here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=943035

It's got Century Jet air retracts, which currently have a leak in them. This has led to two gear up belly landings. When I do this conversion I plan on recovering the plane to a tri color WW2 scheme similar to Corsair Jocks.

CorsairJock
01-09-2010, 10:45 AM
Mine is still in 1 piece, but starting to show it's age. I keep saying I'm going to refinish it, but I keep putting it off.

Last AXI 4130 motors that I bought were just over $100 each, so price is coming down (must be all the competition). I still think they are the best choice for '60 size' warbirds.

vax6335
01-10-2010, 01:13 AM
I've got a brand new Power 60 coming in the mail. Got it plus 2 prop adapters for $115, which I don't think is bad at all. Normally I would've bought gear from Hobby City, but since this will be my largest electric, I didn't want to go the cheap route.
I should have this ready to go by this spring. Recover, electrify, and find the retract leak.

When I recover I plan on using monokote (or similar) for the three colors. Then I will use the airbrush to fade the transition between each color. Do you think this will work fine or will it look bad?

CorsairJock
01-10-2010, 04:02 AM
Actually, I've seen just plain MonoCoted tri color Corsairs that have looked pretty good, without the 'fading'.

F4U Nut
02-20-2010, 06:32 PM
Hi All,

Does anyone know of any micro proportional servos that are small enough to fit into the mechanical retract area, and that would accomodate a servo rate reducer (for the twin "main" system)?

Pololu Robotics & Electrics has some great servos, but I am not familiar in using any of them. Anyone else?

Thanks for the help,
F4U Nut

UGLYPUG
07-22-2010, 05:21 PM
My friend tells me , he thinks e-flite may be coming out soon with some sixty size electric retracts,, maybe some rotating for corsair too,,, that would fit the hanger 9 corsair,,, I am waiting with baited breath to get some to replace the junk I now have from hanger 9 currently on mine. I hold my breath every landing that the wheels don't twist and make for another bad landing and more scratches. Keep watching for those new retracts,,,,

CRB
07-22-2010, 05:34 PM
Yeah, mine is sitting in the garage with one working LADO retract....I have been waiting over a year for them to fix/replace the defective one and have finally given up on that as we all know how Doug has handled his customers....I am looking forward to the eflite rotating 60 size retract so she can fly again....

adwb
09-21-2010, 02:35 PM
Yeah, mine is sitting in the garage with one working LADO retract....I have been waiting over a year for them to fix/replace the defective one and have finally given up on that as we all know how Doug has handled his customers....I am looking forward to the eflite rotating 60 size retract so she can fly again....
Due to ill health and advancing old age and decrepitudes All my kit including 2 working and 2 non working lados are for sale see ebay 230528915967, it might be of interest to some of you corsair buffs.
Alistair

Glacier Girl
10-11-2010, 03:43 PM
Hopefully soon E-flite will soon release their rotating electric version retracts. You can see on the paperwork for the standard versions they have listings for a 100 degree rotating versions. I emailed Horizon about em but couldn't get a date for release.

I just wrapped up the paint work on mine last night, so that's all I'm waiting on to finish mine up.

I'm being my normal self and going different. No WWII scheme for me. I went with a Reno racer style like was used on the Super Corsair.

Nitro Blast
10-11-2010, 03:52 PM
E-flite 90 degree rotating electrics....... I'm on the list for sure.

This is why:

http://vimeo.com/4783250

The only issues I've had with this bird are the mains.

UGLYPUG
10-12-2010, 05:03 AM
Nitro, i know how you feel.. Those hanger 9 retracts i have really stink. I had to break down and get another set as the original ones kept failing, even on a perfect touchdown. The ball ends just slipped out too easy. Since i moved the cg forward of where hanger 9 called for it to be, it lands a lot better, and i hope to get a lot more landings out of the new "replacement" retracts. Day "uglypug" ps, like your video music !

twinbrother2010
03-17-2011, 03:21 AM
It's 2011 and the Hangar 9 Corsair 60 size is still having problems. On a nose over, the firewall fell out of the fuse. Yup, just a nose over and no more firewall. I had to epoxy that back on. After about 1 month of flying, less than 20 flights, the wings rip apart in mid flight. I wasn't doing anything crazy, the wings just came apart. There went over $500, $260 for the plane and over $250 for my lipos.

I called Horizon and they're not doing much for me. I would think that after 7 years of people writing on the boards about he Corsair, Hangar 9 would fix it, but they didn't. After close inspection of the wing, I saw there wasn't enough glue holding the wood together. Balsa and plywood literally was falling off the wing sheeting and not where the crack is where the wing broke. I saw that there just wasn't enough glue. Same with the firewall, not enough glue. A generous amount of glue probably could have kept the firewall on the fuse and kept the wings together. How can Hangar 9 be skimping on glue for a $260 plane? That just baffles me.

The customer service rep told me all the boards and forum complaints about the Hangar 9 60 size Corsair are rubbish. Yeah, customers losing a $260 plane because of bad construction is rubbish. Thanks Horizon Hobbies. That's one way of keeping customers.

CorsairJock
03-17-2011, 10:32 AM
................The customer service rep told me all the boards and forum complaints about the Hangar 9 60 size Corsair are rubbish. Yeah, customers losing a $260 plane because of bad construction is rubbish. Thanks Horizon Hobbies. That's one way of keeping customers.

It's a very unfortunate reflection on how our society has changed: it USED to be :"The Customer is Always Right", and now: just the opposite. And it's not just Horizon, and people will continue to buy their products regardless.

Sorry about your loss, hope you can get past it and have better luck in the future.

BTW: mine is still together/ flyable/ never had anything fall off, but then: I reinforced the wing joints and built all new firewall before it ever flew.

twinbrother2010
03-17-2011, 04:08 PM
There is no customer service these days. You have to go tooth and nail before you get anything. It's all "deny, deny deny" with the companies these days. They do nothing wrong and we're all delusional. I am so disgusted with Horizon Hobby and Hangar 9 right now. $500 down the tubes and they don't give a damn.

I'm sure I'll eventually get over all this, but I'm never buying Hangar 9 or from Horizon Hobby for a very long time. Hobbyking.com gave me poor customer service a bunch of times and I've boycotted their products. I haven't bought from them for 3 years. I used to shell out $300/month on their website. It's their loss. Now goes the same for Horizon Hobby and Hangar 9. It's their loss.

70sflyer
03-18-2011, 07:50 PM
Sorry about your loss and thanks for the heads up on the glue problems.Im Still putting mine together,so I will definitely beef up the fire wall,dont know what I can do for the wing,any suggestions.Thanks Dean

twinbrother2010
03-18-2011, 08:38 PM
I fiberglassed the firewall to the fuse to keep it on. The only way to insure success for the wings is to remove the covering and add urethane glue to the wood at all the joints. For 100% success, taking off the sheeting and redoing the sheeting is the best. If I had my Corsair still flying, I would do that. Hangar 9 did a piss poor job with the glue on this plane. Maybe yours might hold together and not fall apart, maybe not. I was one of the unlucky ones, and there are a ton of others out there that faced the same problems. This plane really is a disaster waiting to happen.

UGLYPUG
03-30-2011, 05:47 AM
I guess I need to take a look at the firewall and wings on mine. I have been flying mine for a couple of years now and so far no problems. I almost lost my hanger 9 spitfire due to the firewall coming loose. It caused the plane to start "misbehaving" and as I started trying to trim it, it got too close to the ground. I pulled up just in time to save a total crash, but had to order a new wing. The spitfire is a little tougher than the corsair and weighs more due to the extra glue I guess. I still love my corsair. I am now building a TF giant scale corsair,,, on another thread. I have heard of another guy at my club that had his corsair wing come apart in flight. I guess I have been lucky so far. Sorry for your loss. It always hurts to lose one...:(

twinbrother2010
03-30-2011, 06:08 AM
Your buddy lost his Hangar 9 Corsair due to the wings failing in flight? How can Hangar 9 and Horizon Hobby ignore an issue like this? Posts go as far back as 2004 and Horizon Hobby still insists there are no issues with the Hangar 9 60 size Corsair. Your Corsair is probably hanging in their because you're not one of the ones who lost in Russian roulette. The rest of us aren't so lucky. I guess Horizon doesn't care about the rest of us. Too bad because I'm never buying Hangar 9 again and probably just as long from Horizon Hobby.

UGLYPUG
03-30-2011, 06:31 AM
In all fairness,, the guy had an over sized engine in it, and flew it wide open all the time with a lot of g forces on it,,, but still not a real excuse,,, ,Now I have known Horizon Hobby to replace a couple of planes lost due to a bad Spectrum transmitter for another friend of mine (not a regular thing to do), when Futaba would not for me.
....I lost 3 planes due to a bad Futaba 6EX transmitter, and they repaired it once, and finally sent me a new transmitter, but no new plane, not even one of the three. It is hard to prove the cause of the loss of a plane and why it crashes,,, but, Hanger 9 should be fixing the problem with this lack of glue. I don't see how they can let this keep going on.
....I would not be too down on Horizon Hobby. After all, hanger 9 makes it, and we have all been warned about the problems with the corsair, and keep buying it! And I still love my sixty size corsair,,,,, Everyone at the field likes watching me fly it. And that makes it worth it,,,,:ws:

twinbrother2010
03-30-2011, 04:08 PM
You're right, the Hangar 9 60 size Corsair is the best looking one out there on the market, but it's also the only one out on the market. However, it doesn't hold together. I'm waiting for Top-flite to come out with a 60 size Corsair ARF. I hope they do and price it right. And then I hope they kill Hangar 9's Corsair market. Horizon Hobby should be ashamed of themselves for letting this go on for so long. I have 3 Top-flite ARFs and they are solid as a rock. Even when I flew my Hangar 9 60 size Corsair, I babied it in the air, and it still fell apart in flight.

Nitro Blast
03-30-2011, 04:13 PM
All this talk about the firewall had me scared enough to really take a close look at mine. Althogh what I have is the Sportsman Avaition version, they are nearly identical.

On closer check of my many year old bird, she's still tight and solid! Glue joints look perfect, wing saddle is robust, and the hold down is secure.

My corsair has seen many a sortie that I hope would have had the problem by now, but upon FAA inspection, (Dad is retired FAA) she's airworthy.

hemlock
04-03-2011, 11:53 PM
i'm sure there is a thread running some where on H9 flap add modification but i can't find it.
Can anyone point me to it??
regards
ADWB????


Please - anybody have any good flap mods? I cannot get the one "The Bandit" posted. can't get the inboard flap to move the mid flap...

hemlock
04-03-2011, 11:53 PM
Please - anybody have any good flap mods? I cannot get the one "The Bandit" posted. can't get the inboard flap to move the mid flap...


Here is The Bandits post http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24770&highlight=gws+corsair+flaps

dawhale
11-05-2011, 03:44 AM
I am going to install an E-flite 60 in my Hangar 9 Corsair. It looks like I need to mount 1 1/2" off the firewall. I am having trouble trying to find one that will adjust this close. What motor mount did you guys use?

:confused:

UGLYPUG
11-05-2011, 05:24 AM
I am going to install an E-flite 60 in my Hangar 9 Corsair. It looks like I need to mount 1 1/2" off the firewall. I am having trouble trying to find one that will adjust this close. What motor mount did you guys use?

:confused:
I made mine. I used 4 threaded rods the length needed for the distance off the firewall, sized to fit through the motor mount, and some blind nuts on the fire wall, and the rods fit through the motor mount, and some spacers on the rods and nuts as needed. I made a stand off motor mount like this for all my planes. Quick and easy to pick up all the parts at Ace Hardware.

CorsairJock
11-05-2011, 11:37 AM
Likewise: I fabricated mine from plywood, basically added an extension to the firewall.
Hobby Lobby used to sell (maybe they still do?) a pretty good motor mount for motors this size, I am using one in my Top Flite Mustang. I think it's called something like AM500? I'll try to find it and post a link.

CorsairJock
11-05-2011, 12:09 PM
Here's the one I used on my Mustang:
http://www.hobby-lobby.com/aluminum_motor_mount_for_axi_41_series_brushless_m otors_1365_prd1.htm

But as you suggest: it is probably TOO long. You could drill new holes in it (the part that mounts to the firwall) and shorten the 'legs'. I did that on my Me-108 come to think of it.

70sflyer
11-05-2011, 06:07 PM
I thought the Hobby-lobby was not strong enough so for my AXi4130/20 so I went with the firewall style mount from R/C dude hobbies.It looks stronger and many holes for alot of different configerations.Good luck.Dean

CorsairJock
11-05-2011, 06:11 PM
I thought the Hobby-lobby was not strong enough so for my AXi4130/20 so I went with the firewall style mount from R/C dude hobbies.It looks stronger and many holes for alot of different configerations.Good luck.Dean
That is exactly the same motor I am using on my Mustang, with the Hobby Lobby mount: no problems.

UGLYPUG
11-05-2011, 07:47 PM
NOW you see why I make my own,, quick,, no waiting for an order, just pick up parts at ACE hardware or home depot etc,, cut to size very easily, and easy to adjust for thrust line. I just made one for a .10 size foamy mustang and did not need spacers, just extra nuts tightened against the fire wall and motor x-mount that comes with the motor,, easy to adjust the thrust line,, lots of good ideas on here from everyone

dawhale
11-07-2011, 02:03 AM
UGLYPUG, any chance you could post a picture of your home made motor mounts?

UGLYPUG
11-07-2011, 05:08 AM
I'll try to add some pics,,, it keeps failing,,, files too big or something... I put a picture on this website,, check there,,,, You can also see where I have started using Velcro to hold the cowling on,, It holds very well, and you don't have to drill holes in the cowling, and it is easy to adjust to center on the motor in case you have to adjust the thrust line on the motor,, I left the mounting blocks from the old cowling that had holes in it, when I had a Saito 100 on this thing. BTW, anyone ever tried using 8 lipos on a power 60 ? I don't think it will handle 8 cells.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8166714/anchors_10800316/mpage_3/key_/anchor/tm.htm#10800316