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Ribcracker
12-06-2005, 02:28 AM
I have a Hitec Flash 5 and fly nearly every day. My TX pack is an 8 cell nicad @ 600 mah. It seems to be discharging very quickly lately. I used to charge it once a week but now I charge it about every other day. When it gets down to about 9.5v, I completely discharge it with my round cell charger and then slow charge it during the night with the wall charger that came with it.
Would I be better off to just top it off every night or should I wait and completely discharge it first?
Maybe it's time for a replacement pack. Any thoughts?

cyclops2
12-06-2005, 02:44 AM
3 causes for fast run down. Bad battery in pack. Not enough charge time. Charger is weak and going.-------- If you have another GOOD 8 cell pack try it and compare. Or another charger, or someone elses.

qban_flyer
12-06-2005, 05:12 AM
You don't mention how old your Flash 5 is. I have a 3 plus years old Flash 5 "System X" and have yet to get it to discharge below 10V. Freshly charged it displays 12.2V on its screen.

Trying another charger would be a good thing to do, just as charging another similar pack with your charger would pin down whether your problem is the pack or the charger.

The only time I've ever seen a pack behave the way yours has, was after it had been charged in "Auto" mode by a well known charger about ten or so times. Somehow the pack did not take kindly to the "Auto" mode of that unit and expired while the plane was airborne.

Red Scholefield
12-06-2005, 01:51 PM
I have a Hitec Flash 5 and fly nearly every day. My TX pack is an 8 cell nicad @ 600 mah. It seems to be discharging very quickly lately. I used to charge it once a week but now I charge it about every other day. When it gets down to about 9.5v, I completely discharge it with my round cell charger and then slow charge it during the night with the wall charger that came with it.
Would I be better off to just top it off every night or should I wait and completely discharge it first?
Maybe it's time for a replacement pack. Any thoughts?

Does you "round cell charger" give you any kind of a capacity reading when it discharges? How deep does the round cell charger discharge the pack. This could be a problem. You have run cells into reverse and then they take a much longer time to recharge to full capacity.

Unbalanced prop
12-06-2005, 02:02 PM
You could go to higher capacity batteries to last many hours. Just get a battery holder like this:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062251&cp=&pg=2&kw=battery+holder&parentPage=search

Put some cells in like these (or any rechargeable nimh you prefer) and fly for hours on a single charge.

http://www.amondotech.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=553

This has been working well for me for a couple summers. I usually get around six hours of use before I need to recharge.

Doug

Bad advice I'm afraid, you have TEN pressure contacts in series. Not a good situation for anthing critical to flight like your transmitter where the slightest bump could cause an open circuit. Just have a pack made up in the capacity of your choice.

Red S. - The Battery Clinic

crashed again
12-06-2005, 06:26 PM
I read some wheres and can't remember where..

using a clock type timer in front of the Hitec trans/receiver battery charger,

set timer for 12 hour on time,
then off 1 hour,
then on 2 hours,
and repeat until all settings are used up..

I charged one time like this

One time I charged batteries for the 12 hour period,
then I set and connected the time

1 hour off - 2 hours on and repeated untill all my setting were used up..

I haven't been flying for a long while now so I don't remember if it really improved charge, but when I was flying using the "normal" method of charging, I could go a week or two before having to recharge.

Ya might take a look at the Rcgroups.com --Vender area -- HiTec and see if you can get answer from the "PRO's"

Jack


edit:
P.S. the type timer I used plugged into the wall outlet, and had the trip pins for setting the on / off time.

Unbalanced prop
12-06-2005, 06:58 PM
Red S

I know people who know a lot more then me and have been using that system for years with no problems. I have used it for many hours over two years with great success. Have you seen any problems using a good quality battery holder or is it just your "opinion".

Doug

Will Hicks
12-06-2005, 11:19 PM
Not only an opinion but fact. No need to heed the warning. If your happy with the results your getting now, go for it.

If you should ever lose radio contact with your model, you might try shaking your transmitter a bit. Perhaps the bad connection will make enough contact for you gain control :)

Ribcracker
12-07-2005, 01:12 AM
Cyclops and Qban,
My Flash 5 is about a year old. I'll admit that I HAVE fast charged the pack @ 2c on "auto" mode and it got quite hot but I've been led to believe that we can charge cads @ 3c. Oh, and Qban, I want to ask you some questions about your Flash 5 later. I'll get back with you.
Red,
My round cell charger is the MRC Super Brain 969 Pro. Quite nice. After flying tonight, my TX display read 9.8v. On the brain it read 10.2. I discharged it @ 2.5 amps and the machine beeped and shut off when the display read 8v. It gradually bounced back up to 9.9 before it stabilized. Discharge cap was 92 mah and it took 2.2 minutes. I then charged it @ 1c (.6a). When it peaked, it read 11.35. It took 50 minutes and delivered 456 mah. When I put it back in the TX it read 11.2. An hour later, I turned the radio on and it read 10.8 without having been used. Do these parameters sound correct or is my pack under suspicion?
Jack,
I'll try your method. Can't hurt!
Doug,
I've got that set up in my 3 channel Focus and it seems to work just fine.
You guys are invaluable to me. Any further advice is well appreciated. I think though, that a new pack is probably in order. Agreed?

cyclops2
12-07-2005, 02:14 AM
Are we using a Ni Cad pak? I do not think you can be causing A memory of light load and light charging. BUUUT. Can you run it down to about 8.0volts and then charge at 1C ? Do it 2 or 3 times. Make sure the battery is at room temp. before discharge and charge. Post back the results.

LECTROFLYER
12-07-2005, 02:41 AM
throwem in the round file and get some nimas they go forever :cool:

HX3D014
12-07-2005, 08:18 AM
most important to put some tape around to prevent any chance of them disloging a little. also . helps for keeping bats in place when you shake the pack out for its once a week charge. (Kinda important if you want to cycle the batteries around . By cycle I mean order in series of each battery ,Cycle them or you will find that the first negative bat in the series can show a negative voltage after a discharge, cycling also lets you see the contact points, remember to check for signs of bat contact, and check each batery individualy. also once a quarter or so. do an individual charge cycle on each individual 1.2v bat so as to get balance)

As for contacts breaking, momentarily or other make sure the pressure is good and . two solutions.
1/ When flying try not to bash you Tx about. (Not good for the Tx in general )
2/ Open yout Tx and solder a Super capacitor or 2 in series ? (http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=RU6705&CATID=51&keywords=&SPECIAL=&form=CAT&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=861) in so as to maintain a backup. Not checked my Tx but kinda thought they May have one alredy in. As the design of the Batery pack is presure contact from the Bat pack to Tx contacts any way. so even here check for good contact.

Oh and Ni Mh can be abused by way of no need to cycle every time.

Lastly, put a ribon in under the bat pack so you can lift it out of the back of you Tx withour having to shake or bash it to get it out.

HX3D014
12-07-2005, 09:54 AM
You guys in the USA are lucky. Here in Australia I had to midify two 4AA bat holders so as to fit in the back of my 9XV2 tx, and then I had to solder wires inside, I then used servo conectors M and F as the 4AA bat holders did not have a 9v style conector Like the original JR NiCd .6ahr had.

The 8xAA bat holder mentioned above would have been a dream for me. Just check the springs are good tape your bats in and look after your tx.

NB Rib Cracker, I use a Swallow charger. works well for me. in my tx manual it says to charge the 600mah NiCd bat at 60ma, and well... this would be best. but as my Swallow only goes down to 100ma this will have to do. . and so, I also found the original NiCd to be short on wind. but now with my 8 x2400mha 1.2v NiMh's If i charge at 100 this is way to slow but yeilds a max charge. and I can put it on a quick charge @ 2.4amps, or 1amp even for an hour if in a rush, and still get a days worth of flying (Remembering to do a 100ma trickle charge when i get back home)

HX3D014
12-07-2005, 11:55 AM
RibCracker Quote "My round cell charger is the MRC Super Brain 969 Pro. Quite nice. After flying tonight, my TX display read 9.8v. On the brain it read 10.2. I discharged it @ 2.5 amps and the machine beeped and shut off when the display read 8v. It gradually bounced back up to 9.9 before it stabilized. Discharge cap was 92 mah and it took 2.2 minutes. I then charged it @ 1c (.6a). When it peaked, it read 11.35. It took 50 minutes and delivered 456 mah. When I put it back in the TX it read 11.2. An hour later, I turned the radio on and it read 10.8 without having been used. Do these parameters sound correct or is my pack under suspicion?"

Ribcracker
There can be as much as a .6v drop when Electricity goes through a Diode. Most Electronic Circuts involve on to prevent Electricity going where you dont want it (Kinda like a One way street for Electricity)

this can account for the lower reading in the Tx. as for not gettin the Full 600mah. try going for as low as you can get to 60ma charge, (You may find that the bat has a memory or two and so. you may need to Cycle charge it a few times. Discharge at 1 c and charge at as close to as low as 60ma)

now as for the difference in the voltage an hour later. the bat may have settlet down with only the 456mah in it and droped pressure evenly (Not realy pressure and not realy Evenly) and now only reading 10.8. NB 10.8 is a good charge. but this may be a reading for a period of time throughout the discharge time depending on the rate of discharge. Have you seen a chart on how a bat discharges (one with amps delivered. volts and so forth ?). It's not a perfect line. and NiCd is one for getting a bit Bumpy on a graph. if not charged evenly and fully with time to settle (IE slowly)

debhicks
12-07-2005, 01:11 PM
No the original battery is a nicad. They do.

Unbalanced prop
12-07-2005, 01:29 PM
Not only an opinion but fact. No need to heed the warning. If your happy with the results your getting now, go for it.

If you should ever lose radio contact with your model, you might try shaking your transmitter a bit. Perhaps the bad connection will make enough contact for you gain control :)

If it is not a good idea, why does Hitec sell them??:confused:

http://www.shopatron.com/product/product_id=RCD58101/110.0.6006.6008.0.0.0

Doug

debhicks
12-07-2005, 01:54 PM
I have to repair these holders all the time in the electronic business. They loose their ability to hold tension. Some even break. Why does hitec sell them. Because the consumer wants them. They have no liability.

Just one incident that happened recently. I had a $2000.00 air sampler in here the other day not more than a year old that the tabs on it's battery holder had just broke off. This is a machine they use to test the ambient air to mix fuel in race cars. You'd think they would put a better battery holder system in there. :)

But you know, shave cost here and there and perhaps the customer will not know. Unfortunatly, like what happens with 95% of the things we as consumers buy if it breaks we just throw it away. Awe it was cheap, I'll just get another.

On the other hand with specialty equipment the supplier banks on the fact that most that have it won't wait the time frame it takes to send it back an just gets it fixed elsewhere. They bank that they will not hear from them again, or if they do it is to purchase another unit or something different. It is a conditioning thing that big retailers do to the consumer. Another example is VCR's. In their day they were expensive. Now you can get one cheap. When asked do you think it is worth the money to maintain a $100.00 piece of equipment, I usually say, how long have you had it, how much did you pay. Divide the number of days used into the cost and see what it has really cost you daily or per use. Then you valuate if it's worth maintaining/repairing. It's an electronic thing. Over 50% will have it maintained and the rest will go out and purchase, probably upgrading the unit.

It is the consumer of today. And quite frankly, we have fostered that as consumers. Thats why I carry quality stuff and push it. I have some cheap stuff if that is the best they can muster at the time, but they never leave without knowing exactly what it is they put thier hard earned money into.

It plays for just about everything we as consumers spend our money on. I like to say some are prudent buyers, thinkers that actually look at the future. Other I like to say have more money than sense. In both cases education is the key.

As my Daddy used to say, I can only give you the data to put in your backpack of life. It is up to you as to how you will use it. :) Always a nice thing to fall back on when I am making a major decision.

O brother, here I go talking again. The point is take all the advise. Red S. is an expert in his field. Make your own decision. This problem has happened to some of us and the battery holder has been the culprit.

Red Scholefield
12-07-2005, 01:55 PM
If it is not a good idea, why does Hitec sell them??:confused:

http://www.shopatron.com/product/product_id=RCD58101/110.0.6006.6008.0.0.0

Doug

Because there is no limit to the stupidity of the buying public. :rolleyes: And so far no one has sued them for causing a crash due to the intermittant pressure contacts. You ever try to sue a Korean company? :( I can't tell how many of the Futaba Super 7 transmitters I've changed over to use a battery connector rather than those disastrous 9 volt type snaps they used, many times AFTER the crash.

Unbalanced prop
12-07-2005, 02:29 PM
Once again just MHO, not an expert by any stretch of my imagination. The battery holders come in very different quality. The radio shack ones seem to be the best I have seen. They use heavy springs and solid clips. In the Eclipse transmitter, the fit is very snug with a pressure fit against the contacts. There is no movement or play. In fact it is very hard to remove the holder as it is that tight.

BTW.......I don't consider myself to be part of the "stupid buying public" :rolleyes:

Doug

Unbalanced prop
12-07-2005, 03:43 PM
There are some other flyers who use a battery holder with good success.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3499054&postcount=1

Doug

cyclops2
12-07-2005, 04:35 PM
Anchor them in if it has the spring clips. DO NOT use Silicone rubber ANYWHERE near electric wires or bare copper. It starts a chemical cancer called " Black rot". Once it starts in servo or battery wires it crawls along under the insulation, making the wire brittle and causing intermittant shorts till the circuit opens. NO CURE FOR IT. -----------I used a piece of good duct tape across the cells to nearby plastic. Do not mount servos and batteries with Silicone anything. If the stuff smell like Vineagar, DO NOT use it, period. The smell is Acetic Acid.

Red Scholefield
12-07-2005, 06:45 PM
Red S

I know people who know a lot more then me and have been using that system for years with no problems. I have used it for many hours over two years with great success. Have you seen any problems using a good quality battery holder or is it just your "opinion".

Doug

It is not an opinion - it is FACT based on 30 years as a battery design and application engineer for General Electric, Energizer, and Gates Energy Products. Plus another 40 as an active R/C flyer. Battery holders are applied on low-end, non-critical applications where an intermittant condition due to shock or vibration can be tolerated.

I am reminded of the arguments put forth about smoking - people will claim their grandfather smoked all his life and lived to be 96. Or my aunt died of lung cancer and never smoked - so smoking doesn't cause cancer.

In life you will find people getting away with all kinds of violations of nature, science, physics etc. and living to tell about it. That doesn't mean that these practices can be recommended.:cool:

It is not my intention to reform, only to share solid information accumulated through years of professional experience that the hobby user is free (my commercial consulting rate is $175/hr) to use or ignor as he chooses.

You can usually spot these that ignor it, they go by nick names such as Crash, Lucky, Smoking Hole, Wing Bender, Snake bit, Balsa Basher etc. Their frequency of radio interference at the field is significantly above the average.:rolleyes:

qban_flyer
12-07-2005, 07:07 PM
My Flash 5 is about a year old. I'll admit that I HAVE fast charged the pack @ 2c on "auto" mode and it got quite hot but I've been led to believe that we can charge cads @ 3c. Oh, and Qban, I want to ask you some questions about your Flash 5 later. I'll get back with you.

"My round cell charger is the MRC Super Brain 969 Pro. Quite nice. After flying tonight, my TX display read 9.8v. On the brain it read 10.2. I discharged it @ 2.5 amps and the machine beeped and shut off when the display read 8v. It gradually bounced back up to 9.9 before it stabilized. Discharge cap was 92 mah and it took 2.2 minutes. I then charged it @ 1c (.6a). When it peaked, it read 11.35. It took 50 minutes and delivered 456 mah. When I put it back in the TX it read 11.2. An hour later, I turned the radio on and it read 10.8 without having been used. Do these parameters sound correct or is my pack under suspicion?"


I have anotion that your problem is an abused battery pack. The way you describe your 'cycling' is not what these packs were designed for. Maximum charge on TX factory packs is 180 milliamps for a five hour period(whether their brand name is Futaba, Hitec or JR). Under normal TX usage they never discharge at over 450 milliamps (typically 300 is more like it). The packs supplied with these radios are not fast discharge and re-charge types, a common misconception many R/Cers have.

Charging a factory supplied pack @ 600 milliamps is over three times their specified factory charge rate. Discharging them @ 2.5 amps assures quick destruction of these cells as they are not designed to take that type of abuse.

For that type of fast charge usage you'll have to get a custom pack made with that type of cell (either NiCad or NIMH) and forego using your factory provided charger with them altogether.

I am afraid you have fried your pack(s). :o I have seen this problem more times than I'd care to remember at four of the clubs I have belonged to in the past 30 plus years.

Unbalanced prop
12-07-2005, 07:19 PM
Not sure how smoking relates to battery holders, but since you make $175 per hour, you must be right. I make a lot less and have only been flying RC since 1965. The only vibration my transmitter has is my shaking hands. :) I don't even have a cute name to make me easy to spot at the field, but I have bashed balsa, bent wings, crashed and put smoking holes in the ground. I will continue to use my battery holders. they work well for me and I am well passed reforming. I am NOT trying to reform anyone to do anything, just sharing my (non professional) experience with an alternative product. All of the above is MHO. I am NOT a professional, your results may vary.

Doug

cyclops2
12-07-2005, 07:29 PM
As long as I am bashing Silicone Rubber. Do not use it on any glow plug engine. It ruins the Platinium coil in glow plugs. If you must use it, let it dry a lot before putting the plug in.

Unbalanced prop
12-07-2005, 07:32 PM
As long as I am bashing Silicone Rubber. Do not use it on any glow plug engine. It ruins the Platinium coil in glow plugs. If you must use it, let it dry a lot before putting the plug in.

What is a glow engine and glow plugs???:D :rolleyes:

Doug

Ribcracker
12-08-2005, 02:26 AM
Qban,
It looks like I've opened a can of worms. Seems we all have strong opinions... which is good. We learn as we go. I did not know that TX packs had to be discharged and charged so slowly. I guess I just assumed that a nicad is a nicad. And yes...if what you say is true, then I certainly HAVE abused it. I'll poke around for a new one and in the meantime I'll just top it off every night to keep it charged. What is your usual routine for charging your Flash 5?
BTW, thank you for your frequent contributions to this site. I always learn something from your posts.
Peace,
Bud

qban_flyer
12-08-2005, 03:55 AM
Qban,
It looks like I've opened a can of worms. Seems we all have strong opinions... which is good. We learn as we go. I did not know that TX packs had to be discharged and charged so slowly. I guess I just assumed that a nicad is a nicad. And yes...if what you say is true, then I certainly HAVE abused it. I'll poke around for a new one and in the meantime I'll just top it off every night to keep it charged. What is your usual routine for charging your Flash 5?
BTW, thank you for your frequent contributions to this site. I always learn something from your posts.
Peace,
Bud

Hi Bud,

Been at this for quite sometime now. Seen many a good new TX as well as RX pack ruined by the "Auto" charging usage some in this hobby give them.

There are NiCads, and then there are NiCads. The type furnished with our radios is the slow rate charge type. The ones we use to fly our models are the fast type. The fact that yours got hot to the touch when being charged should have raised a red flag immediately. Anything above lukewarm is lethal to them.

Unfortunately, Futaba is the only manufacturer that includes a warning label on their TX as well as RX packs. Hitec used to, but no longer does. Since I don't use JR, I have no clue as to whether they do so or not.

Attached is a scan of a Futaba airborne pack. The same suggestions for charging this one is found on all of their packs.

I don't think you have opened a can of worms. Everyone needs to be made aware of how these packs should be handled. I have never charged any of my radio packs higher than 150 milliamps, and only do so on rare occasions.

I discharge all my TXs every three to four months. I do so by extending the antenna fully, turning the switch ON and let the voltage drop until thier Low Voltage built in alarm goes off. It usually takes about two plus hours to do so. Then I let it rest for a couple of hours before I plug it into its own charger then I give it a 20 hour charge. When I am done the voltage read out is usually 12.2 to 12.3 volts. If I don't fly it for a couple of days, I top it off @ a rate of 1 hour of charging for each day the TX sits idle. When I come back from the field, I do charge it again for eight to ten hours the night before if I plan on going back again the next day. If I don't use it for a week or so, then I give it a 15 hour charge.

Been doing that with all my TXs for a long time now. I never throw a battery pack away just because that's what everybody does every two to three years. I throw mine away when they no longer hold a charge for a reasonable amount of time.

I don't even feel comfortable by charging them @ 150 milliamps, so perhaps this is the reason my packs last as long as they do.

BTW, glad you have found some of my posts useful. :)

Take care.

qban_flyer
12-08-2005, 04:02 AM
What is a glow engine and glow plugs???:D :rolleyes:

Doug

One that glows GREEN in the dark. The glow plug is what makes the engine GLOW!

Don't take my word for it, but I've heard they are quite noisy and slimmy when so GLOWING!!! :D :D :D

crashed again
12-08-2005, 04:34 AM
Red S and qban...I’d appreciate your opinion on the charging method I posted back in post 6.. Concerned that it may not be correct and I wouldn’t want anyone (including myself) to damage any of their packs because the used that method..

thanks Jack

Ribcracker
12-09-2005, 02:07 AM
Qban,
THAT is the information that I was looking for. Thank you!
I'd like ask you to another question but it's off this subject so I'd like to refer you to my post titled "Flash 5 users" in the Gen Electric forum.
Bud

everydayflyer
12-11-2005, 10:12 PM
Not sure how smoking relates to battery holders, but since you make $175 per hour, you must be right. I make a lot less and have only been flying RC since 1965. The only vibration my transmitter has is my shaking hands. :) I don't even have a cute name to make me easy to spot at the field, but I have bashed balsa, bent wings, crashed and put smoking holes in the ground. I will continue to use my battery holders. they work well for me and I am well passed reforming. I am NOT trying to reform anyone to do anything, just sharing my (non professional) experience with an alternative product. All of the above is MHO. I am NOT a professional, your results may vary.

Doug

Doug you can not win this disagreement. You know it works so do I and many others.
A better question would be why so many recomend only using Transmitter packs with cells which are soldered end to end? After giving them time to respond refere them to here.

http://www.rcbatteryclinic.com/soldering.html


Charles

Will Hicks
12-11-2005, 11:42 PM
I've looked over the whole thread and can't find any reference to soldering transmitter cells end to end.

Doug doesn't have to win anything. He doesn't have a thing to prove to anyone.

Of course, using a battery holder works. Why wouldn't it? Some of us choose not to take the chance of a bad connection. Others have had nothing but success using battery holders. Hey, life goes on :)

HX3D014
12-12-2005, 10:52 AM
I have to repair these holders all the time in the electronic business. They loose their ability to hold tension. Some even break. Why does hitec sell them. Because the consumer wants them. They have no liability.

Just one incident that happened recently. I had a $2000.00 air sampler in here the other day not more than a year old that the tabs on it's battery holder had just broke off.

This problem has happened to some of us and the battery holder has been the culprit.

Please Explain which is at fault.
Holders, tension where. is it the spring ? or the plastic ends which are the back plate of the spring ?

what is Tabs?
the Clip (9Vstyle ?) or the plastic wraps that go over each individual sell so as to hold each individual cell in place. or the end plates which are the back board for the spring and positive terminal contact point. Is it posable to Reenforce these. so that should one forget to do a check when charging there may be a longer chance of it living in the Rough and tough world of the back of the TX?

NB Where in the model industry can we get a pre fab unit that is high Capacity NiMh and guarenteed to not lose contact ? Oh And How much ?

Will I Be Able to rotate individual cells in the pack from time to time ?

Tanks in advance

everydayflyer
12-12-2005, 07:52 PM
I've looked over the whole thread and can't find any reference to soldering transmitter cells end to end.

Doug doesn't have to win anything. He doesn't have a thing to prove to anyone.

Of course, using a battery holder works. Why wouldn't it? Some of us choose not to take the chance of a bad connection. Others have had nothing but success using battery holders. Hey, life goes on :)

Doug and I have no disagreement here. See Post #5 bottom section in red . See also post at link which I provided whic so happens to be at RC Battery Clinic.
Now relaize that many after market stick type Transmitter packs are soldered not spot wlelded . Also conside that most Trans packs are made from non matched cells and most often the cheapest the RC manufactures can find. I feel that cells which I have tested and matched and use in a high quality holder (not the lame JR and Fatuba ones) which is properly maintained is more reliable than some random cells assembled by mininum wage earners in a third world country. I have years and thosuands of flights to back up my trust in the holders which I use.


Charles.

Red Scholefield
12-12-2005, 09:33 PM
Amazing! As long as I have been in business I've not seen a soldered Tx aftermarket pack - all have been welded of one technique or another.

cyclops2
12-13-2005, 03:13 AM
Can they actually wave solder a pack faster than spot welds? Cheap Batteries Charges EXTRA for soldered connections. They should.

ragbag
12-13-2005, 11:01 AM
If you live in the land of high humidity at least add an antioxidant to the pressure points of each battery. That green stuff is a mess to remove off of each little contact where the batteries touch them.

In my years of flashlights, portables radios and such other battery powered stuff tells me not to trust my flying models to a battery pack that has such a setup.
Wish we had the antioxidants 45/55 years ago. Lost a lot of nice "stuff" to those snap on connectors and pressure point connectors.:rolleyes:

Everything I have is soldered or welded.

By George

ragbag
12-13-2005, 11:36 AM
I smoked for over 50 years and so far I have gotten away with it. Can't run though, run out of breath for some reason. Don't smoke now.

I guess Red is telling us just because you got away with it up till now doesn't mean you will forever.

I'm still breathing, but for how much longer and would that have changed if I had stopped smoking sooner.

Or never smoked in the first place.

Why did the chicken cross the road?
To prove to the armadillo it could be done.:)

By George

Unbalanced prop
12-13-2005, 12:50 PM
I'm still breathing, but for how much longer and would that have changed if I had stopped smoking sooner.

Or never smoked in the first place.

Can't look back George. You can make yourself go crazy with what ifs. :rolleyes: Just enjoy the moment and keep flying!!

Doug

Twmaster
12-13-2005, 03:21 PM
I'd like to poke my 5 cents worth in here. I recently bought a new Hitec Optic 6 with a Spectra module. The TX came with the very same 600mA pack as the original poster's Flash 5. I lost a plane due to this (in my opinion) weak pack failing in flight.

The solution (for me anyways) was to have Cheap Battery Packs build me a custom TX pack with 2300mA NiMH cells. Was only $27 shipped to my door. Problem solved.

Secondly. I, like others here, use a good quality charger to charge my TX packs (E-Flite Pinnacle) and I am very happy with the results. Of course your milage may vary, keep away from open flames and may cause irritation.....

:D

qban_flyer
12-13-2005, 04:22 PM
Amazing! As long as I have been in business I've not seen a soldered Tx aftermarket pack - all have been welded of one technique or another.

Thank you, thank you, thank you!

It has been my understanding all along that cells in factory as well as aftermarket packs were welded together. Since many here argued about soldering, I remained out of the fray until you came along and clarified the whole subject. :)

The only ones I have seen soldered together are the ones put together by the hobbyists themselves. :)