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View Full Version : What's good to keep the Yak up? =)


Lokihaus
12-15-2005, 08:42 PM
I just got my Hobby-Lobby Yak-55's and the Esskay 400XT Outrunner motor in the mail today. I "know" that I'll be getting a lipo charger for x-mas so I wanted to start to ask people a couple questions...

What other components can I use besides the suggested electronics on HL.com? They suggest the:

Jeti Advance PLUS 8 Amp Brushless Controller - $62
3 Cell 11.1V 900 mAh Li-Poly Pack - $42 (for a batt?!?)

Also I have this receiver and 3 servo pack... will it be okay for the Yak?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBXA6&P=0

Thanks!

k-vette
12-15-2005, 09:33 PM
I use those servos and that receiver, (receiver on other planes) they work well. I found a cheap $26 12 amp esc on gwsexpert.com that I'm using on my yak. I also got a 3s li-po from the site, it works good and was way cheaper than ones found on H-L. I've noticed more people using larger esc's because the motor is probably capable of pulling well over 8 amps.

exeter_acres
12-15-2005, 10:09 PM
I use a CC Phx10 controller, GWS Rx, GWS Pico servos and TP 730mAh 3 cell batteries

meatball
12-15-2005, 10:40 PM
I just used www.xushobby.com (http://www.xushobby.com) for the first time. They were recommended to me but I cant recommend them yet, they seem to have no idea where my order currently is, shoulda been here 2 days ago :p

mountaindr3wz
12-16-2005, 03:15 PM
i use the 8amp on my hot rod mini it works great you might want to get the programming card for further adjustments

Elfwreck
12-16-2005, 05:18 PM
Hey now,
The clones I've built all used E-flite 370 outrunners, Castle Creations Phoenix 10 escs, Hitec hs-55s, an old FMA extreme-5 reciever, and Thunder Power 1320s. The Phoenix 10 was fourty something dollars, I'd prolly go with their Thunderbird 9 at thirty bux, if I bought another, it's cheaper and works fine.
RobII

qban_flyer
12-16-2005, 05:27 PM
Thunder Power 900 11.1V
Great Planes SS-12 ESC ($34.95)
FMA Extreme 5
Hitec HS-55 servos
APC 9X3.8SF propeller
This is the way mine are powered for EXTREME performance Flight.

If I want to make them a bit tamer, then I switch to a Thunder Power 900 7.4V pack and switch to an APC 10X3.8SF propeller.

Either way, they are a hoot to fly! :)

3dfoamworks
12-16-2005, 07:43 PM
Wait till you see my new YaK coming out in Jan, it will blow you away, 40" only 17oz RTF, and it is a ARF.

qban_flyer
12-16-2005, 09:55 PM
Wait till you see my new YaK coming out in Jan, it will blow you away, 40" only 17oz RTF, and it is a ARF.

Can we get a sneak preview? Price? Photos? :) :) :)

Lokihaus
12-19-2005, 01:25 AM
http://secure.hobbyzone.com/catalog/HZ/eflite/eflite_glue/EFLA208.html

So I picked a bottle of this at my LHS... but without the "Activator" bottle... It doesn't seem to be drying my Yak-55 pieces together... Was I supposed to pick up the Activator? ...will the glue itself not work without the Activator?

Thanks!

meatball
12-19-2005, 01:31 AM
You can make your own activator by putting some water in a fine misting spray bottle, add baking soda for more kick. Usually CA dries on its own on wood because usually wood contains enough moisture to make it cure. Foam is very dry on the other hand, hence it not drying. Just use water, dont waste your money.

qban_flyer
12-19-2005, 02:26 AM
http://secure.hobbyzone.com/catalog/HZ/eflite/eflite_glue/EFLA208.html

So I picked a bottle of this at my LHS... but without the "Activator" bottle... It doesn't seem to be drying my Yak-55 pieces together... Was I supposed to pick up the Activator? ...will the glue itself not work without the Activator?

Thanks!

I use Bob Smith's foam friendly CA. While it takes a bit of time to set, it is not as slow as Zap! Its setting time depends on how much you are applying too. The more you put down, the longer it will take to set.

I still use the activator, the one that smells peculiar. I'm gonna have to try that water/baking soda concoction next time I put something together. It definitely sounds cheaper. :D

Lokihaus
12-19-2005, 04:11 AM
You can make your own activator by putting some water in a fine misting spray bottle, add baking soda for more kick. Usually CA dries on its own on wood because usually wood contains enough moisture to make it cure. Foam is very dry on the other hand, hence it not drying. Just use water, dont waste your money.
huh, interesting, thanks!

...now, besides that water or other activator stuff, if I put this glue down and then let it sit for 10 minutes or more, it should be dry, right?? I mean, how long is a long time for this glue to dry?

Elfwreck
12-19-2005, 05:29 AM
Hey now,
Um, er, Ca doesn't "dry" It "cures". Need to remember this in weight sensitive situations... On foam it takes ten to twenty minutes to cure.
With the activator it's right now. Um, the baking soda mostly works although with some Ca it gets hot enough to mess up foam. It also leaves these white track marks and I don't think it works as well as store bought activator, but that's just personal opinion.
I do however use baking soda for gap filling (if it's not where I'm going to sand, it's a b*&$ch to sand) and that can work pretty well.
The E-flite activator/glue combo isn't such a bad deal, it works well and it's often cheaper than buying name brands seperately.
RobII

qban_flyer
12-19-2005, 02:41 PM
Um, the baking soda mostly works although with some Ca it gets hot enough to mess up foam. It also leaves these white track marks and I don't think it works as well as store bought activator, but that's just personal opinion.
RobII

I tried it last night. It's too messy, not worth ruining a good looking model just to save a few miserable $$$. :(

ChuckB
12-19-2005, 05:13 PM
Would you please give the amounts for the activator. How much baking soda vs water. Thank you
ChuckB

Lokihaus
12-19-2005, 06:27 PM
I tried it last night. It's too messy, not worth ruining a good looking model just to save a few miserable $$$. :(

...for a $15 dollar plane, I think I'll try and use the water/baking soda thing. =) And I had the wing half sitting there over night and that darn E-Flite foam CA didn't "cure" at all!

Could I use hot glue? ...or is that give the Yak too much weight?

Jeremy Z
12-19-2005, 07:18 PM
I'm in the midst of a Hobby-Lobby Yak 55 too. I'm planning to use a GWS 350C power system. I think it will take some modifying though. I don't want to spend the bucks for a brushless motor & ESC if it turns out I don't like profile planes.

Has anyone got any ideas on how to mount a stick-mount motor system to the mounting plate of a profile plane? I thought I would just glue the stick on at the right place so that the prop shaft is centered in the wooden disc, then maybe screw it down from behind?

Jeremy

Jeremy

Lokihaus
12-20-2005, 06:34 PM
Hot Glue? ...anyone? ...could I use hotglue on my Yak for assembly? thanks!

qban_flyer
12-20-2005, 06:53 PM
Hot Glue? ...anyone? ...could I use hotglue on my Yak for assembly? thanks!

Yes, you can use a low temperature hot glue stick to put it together. A very thin layer of epoxy will do fine too. The plane is not as heavy as some are making out to be, a tenth of an ouce here and there won't make much difference.You can also use GWS adhesive, it takes longer to set than hot glue sticks or epoxy, but it does a decent job.

One more thing, just because you bought it for $15 doesn't make it a cheap plane. It is a very nice flying model that originally sold for $30, and a very durable one at that. Many times more durable than the Ikarus shockies or G/P's FlatOuts that hardly survive ten landings and sell for twice the price. :)

Lokihaus
12-20-2005, 11:02 PM
Thanks for the gluing info! ...and I'll treat it like the $30 plane that it is. =)

qban_flyer
12-20-2005, 11:07 PM
Thanks for the gluing info! ...and I'll treat it like the $30 plane that it is. =)

Why, thank you. You truly are an R/C gentleman and a scholar.:)

Todd Funderburk
12-22-2005, 02:15 AM
Also run a wood screw through the plate into the end of the stick.

mountaindr3wz
12-22-2005, 07:25 PM
what glue can i get at home depot. that is safe for foam?

qban_flyer
12-22-2005, 09:06 PM
what glue can i get at home depot. that is safe for foam?

Epoxy. They don't carry foam friendly CA.:)

mountaindr3wz
12-23-2005, 04:25 AM
man. how long does it take to dry?

Ron S
12-26-2005, 04:32 AM
use a hot glue gun(low temp) it will make a strong bond,and is soooo much faster than any other method I've ever used! It takes a little time to get the process down,but once you have got it down it's great. I only use regular glues at the flying site for quick repairs. One guy in our group got a inverter for his car,so he could use the glue gun at the field!:) Ron

Lokihaus
12-26-2005, 09:13 PM
Yak instructions! Okay yes I'm stupid, but in my defense.. ah hell... I'm just stupid. In assembly instruction step 15 it shows the wing glued together being test fitted to the fuse. The black line (which I thought was the carbon spar in that step) seemed cut for that wing hole... so I cut my carbon spar and glued the two halves into either wing. Then after that I flip over and look at picture 17 and 18 and wtf?!? The carbon spar is running right through the whole wing assembly, uncut! So I said, "Damn it, luckily I bought 2 of these kits." and I added in a 3" basswood dowel to cross that part where the carbon spar is supposed to...

So just FYI... don't cut the carbon spar, like it looks like it is in step 15! =)

meatball
12-27-2005, 06:45 AM
yea, there was a couple other people who thought and nearly (and probably a couple did) cut the spar because of that picture.

Lokihaus
12-27-2005, 04:36 PM
Okay, finished my Yak up last night and just ordered the suggested components that k-vette (http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/member.php?u=108) proposed...

http://www.gwsexpert.com/product_info.php?cPath=9_74&products_id=886&osCsid=09a06e04bd2d8a609e0611ec1a23fac4

and

http://www.gwsexpert.com/product_info.php?cPath=106&products_id=895

I was flying a little blind on the batt, because no specific one was said, but I just guessed it was the 3cell 11.1V 900mah batt... is that correct? I'm a little fuzzy on the whole batt/ECS thing anyway... I've been reading other threads about the Yak and people are talking about batt packs above 900, like 1200mah... and how come the suggested 8amp speed controller at H-L is so expensive, and it was suggested to me to get a 12 amp?

k-vette
12-27-2005, 06:18 PM
Usually one esc is more expensive because it has somebody else's name on it. I'm sure there are some that have smoother throttle response and some programmable features, but I prefer the good price. Some people go with a bigger esc so there's a little buffer zone. You won't risk frying the esc, and you could move up to a larger motor. That battery should work fine, I'm using almost the same one, just 1300 mah. Lighter is better for a lot of reasons, but I need a little weight because I fly in wind frequently.:)

Lokihaus
12-27-2005, 06:48 PM
so the higher the mah the longer duration of the batt life... thus making a larger, heavier batt? Could I use a 1300mah with the same set up as well? Just moving the batt to a new location to balance the plane, correct? This would not affect the "power" of the engine in anyway, right?

k-vette
01-03-2006, 03:29 AM
The way I look at it is, higher number, longer flights. That does mean the pack will be a bit larger and heavier however. You've got it right.:)

Lokihaus
01-09-2006, 04:05 PM
Man, am I having a blast with my HL-Yak 55! ...first time flying 3D, and it's just so damn cool!! I've found my new calling in RC flight. =)

My question is this, though: I was at my LHS the other day and picked up an APC 9x4.7 SF prop to try. I currently have a 10x3.8 SF on there. I have read a lot of people trying to the 9x3.8 props, but alas I could not find one... so has anyone had any experience with the 9x4.8 prop on the Yak-55 with the Esskay's motor? ...what would a pitch like this do for me? Thanks!

meatball
01-09-2006, 10:52 PM
The higher the pitch, the higher the top speed of your plane, which is not what is wanted for 3D, you want lots of torque. Are you using a 3S pack? I would lay off trying new props unless you have a wattmeter to make sure you arent putting too much draw out of the engine, it should be no more then 10 amps. A bigger pitch or diameter will draw more amps then a 9x3.8, with a bigger pitch of an inch being a bigger change then a bigger diameter. I've heard the 9x3.8's draw at about 9.5 amps full throttle, Id try to stick with that unless you or someone else knows the draw at that pitch.

Lokihaus
01-10-2006, 03:56 PM
Yes, I'm flying with 3 3S pack... 900mah and using the Esskay 400XT motor. And I'm using a 12 amp esc. Does that mean that I'm fine drawing more then 9.5 amps IF I was using the 9x3.8 props?

How much are wattmeters... and are they complicated to use?

meatball
01-10-2006, 09:17 PM
Well, I cant recall where I saw the data but I know that WOT with a 9x3.8 is safe to do with the motor (which I would guess is 9-10 amps can someone confirm?). The Esskay will die out a lot faster if you use it continuously in excess of 10 amps, it says that 10 amps is the max on HL's page.

Wattmeters are typically 50 dollars, and you LHS may have one. All you do is place it in the circuit between the motor and battery, and it will read out voltages, and amps (and whatever else) via an LCD screen.