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WingTips24
12-20-2005, 04:54 AM
Subject : Jumbo Lumbo II ( Giant Scale Acrobatic Plane) - BUILD -


Hi gang,

I wanted to start this thread to build my second version of Jumbo Lumbo. Some of you may have seen the first one I built. I learned quite a bit from it and now that the first prototype is done I am building a second JL. I wanted to do a thread this time for a few reasons. For one I wanted to have a better documented procedure for it since I could not remember everything I did on the first one. I also know how much I enjoy reading and following builds and I know I am always looking for one to follow. Guess its time to contribute back to those who have done so much work and took the time to help the rest of us out. A little nudging didnt hurt either ( thanks The Enemy ). I built this plane because I dont have tons of money and I love finding ways to do things for not great amounts of money so the JLs are pretty cheap to build also. Most of this build has been hashed out on paper and the calculations made but some parts will be finished as I build.

Now I am no master builder by any stretch but I do enjoy making things fly and I have recently found a lot of joy building these large scale planes. Below are a few pictures of the first Plane Jumbo Lumbo. She has a 73 inch wingspan and is 77 inches long and has a really gentle feel and mild acrobatic capabilities. Since these pictures I have made many modifications crashed a few times and upgraded parts as needed. I took all this info and began working on the second more advance model the JL II which Ill build on this thread and that will include all the modifications from the first as well as many more realistic looking design changes. Here is the setup for the original Jumbo Lumbo and Jumbo Lumbo II

Jumbo Lumbo

Motor 16 Turn Endoplasma Brushed
Great Planes GB 3.81 Pinion
13X4 Prop developing 80 oz of thrust
Great Planes 55 Amp Lipo capable ESC
Ultimate BEC
( 3 ) Polyquest 2600mah 10C Lipo
( 4 ) Futaba 3004 Servos
GWS 6 channel RX



JL II

Typhoon 29/18/10 Direct Drive
5s 10c Lipos ( still finalizing)
14X9.5 Prop
Phoenix 45 ESC (may use a 50 or 60amp)
Ultimate BEC
( 4 Futaba 3004 Servos
GWS 6 Channel RX
She will be 65 inches Long and have a wingspan of 75


Here are a few pictures of the first model:

The last picture is some of what is needed for the build

I started this build on another forum but thought it would be good to do it here so the first part of this will go quickly since some of the plane has been built already but you will see it slow down eventually to where I am now in the build.

WingTips24
12-20-2005, 04:57 AM
Okay lets get started. To begin I started by taking 2 single folds of Blue Core and gluing them long end to long end. Each sheet is only 48 inches and JL II will be 65 long. I used The Elmers Polyurethane glue ( I like Titebond better but ran out) Epoxy is also fine to use on this part but its heavier. Lining the two halves up can be tricky so a little blue painters tape helps to keep them lined up and reduces glue overflow

After the glue set I took the two panels and laid them out flat one on top of the other with the clean sides facing out to make the design. For shape I made a drawing that followed certain measurements. Now I dont have Cad plans so to show dimensions I have made a small drawing with each measurement of the fuselage on it that I will display when Im done.


After drawing the outer shape and measurements of the plane I then carefully cut out the outside shape. Be sure to mark all your main lines before you cut out the shape. The plane is curved so you have to make reference points before you cut it out. After cutting out the outer shape I then cut the front half of the plane fuselage panels out again for extra support. These panels will double the thickness up from where most of the strength is needed.

Both Panels are stripped of their inside film

WingTips24
12-20-2005, 04:59 AM
Next I cut out the rudder away from the rest of the panel since we are not using it just yet. I am working on a drawing as I see it will probably be more useful now than later so that will come soon.

Tips

WingTips24
12-20-2005, 05:00 AM
For the next part it is time to join the two halves to begin giving the angles that everything else will depend on. To do this I took a piece of Pink foam and cut a piece that was 13 3/4 tall , 1/2 inch wide , and 1/2 inch thick. At the bottom of this piece I notched out a 2 inch long by 1/4 wide and 1/4 inch deep section for the tail wheel tube. In the pictures below you can see the pink foam cut and glued into place. Look at the botton of the plane and you will see the notch cut out.

To join these pieces I use a mixture of 25% water and 32.5% poly glue and 32.5 white elmers glue. I used a clamp and two pieces of long scrap wood to hold the two halves and the joining piece together. You may not be able to see but the notch in the bottom picture does not go all the way through just in 1/4 inch. After all was dry I lightly sanded the outsides to make it perfectly smooth.

Got a bunch of parts in today too yea!

Weight to Date 4.5 oz

Tips

WingTips24
12-20-2005, 05:05 AM
For the next part I joined the main body length panels to the mid length panels that I cut out. I do this I traced the front 24 inches of the plane and removed the film from both sides. I used the same glue mixture as in the previous post applied with a small piece of sponge and slapped them together. I then laid the 1 at a time between two huge speakers with weights on top. I found that doing 1 side at a time was better since it moves around abit till the glue gets settled. Be sure to keep checking to be sure it has not moved for 5 minutes.

Here are some process pictures:

NOTE: you will notice I also removed a 1/2 inch piece of these inside panels. This was done for the front section that will be done later. a straight 90 degree angle was used for that cut.

Tips

Weight to Date: 6.1 oz

WingTips24
12-20-2005, 05:06 AM
Some changesfrom JLI to JLII

1. 2 Wing Halves instead of a lsingle big wing
2. Fuselage is 12 inches shorter to balance the CG better
3. Fuse is shorter and thinner to make room for more prop wash
4. The plane will have a more rounded look rather than boxy
5. Elevator will be moved much farther forward and made of Balsa
6. Rudder is 4 inches bigger and made of balsa ( better acrobatics and faster turns)
7. Larger landing gear 17.5" was 14" ( she would sometimes get blown onto a wing one bad landings or toomuch cross wind)
8. Shape is different slightly ( more realistic )
9. Tail wheel assembly redesigned ( worked but it's better now)
10. Angle of Attack on the wing is different ( nose popped up to easy)
11. More pink foam used ( better for certain parts for strength )
12. Wings will be more semetrical on both sides for better inverted flight ( she would go inverted but needed to much down to hold it)
13. Hatch location changed ( To accomadate separate wing halves )
14. Push Rod System changed ( pull /pull on rudder ) and Stiffer Rods all around. Was a bit sloppy
15. Landing Gear Brace redisigned ( proved to be a weak point )
16. Structural Support is Stronger ( had twist in the fuse )
17. Upgrade in power ( she was underpowered at 96 oz and 80oz of thrust)
18. Wing chord is shorter ( old size made it float but decreased acrobatics)
19. Battery Box redesigned ( Needed a real one)
20. Stabilizer redesigned ( tail end would twist on rolls )
21. Stiffer ailerons ( too much slope made for slow rolls and it was not crisp)

That is whats off the top of my head. It is baasically a new plane but I used all the data I got from the first one and it will still have the general look still. Oh yea it will have a clear canopy now also.

I worked on it some more last night I will try to post some more progress on it when I get home. I am happy with how it is turning out so far. More to come.....

Tips

WingTips24
12-20-2005, 05:08 AM
Thats all for now more to come soon.......

Tips

Rugar
12-20-2005, 05:24 AM
Very cool build thread! I will be watching this one with interest.

WingTips24
12-20-2005, 01:03 PM
Very cool build thread! I will be watching this one with interest.

Rugar

Awesome man great to have you on the build man. This is a fun build, the goal was make a plane that is not to hard to build from scratch and yet still fly's good. This is basically the second model so it is still in testing but the first one flew pretty good and this one has many more changes including being alot lighter so should be an even better more acrobatic flyer. Hope you enjoy chime in anytime, I love the chat between build posts!

Tips

Don Sims
12-21-2005, 12:53 AM
Tips, thanks for posting this one! This looks like one interesting plane!

WingTips24
12-21-2005, 01:41 PM
Don,

No problem Hope you enjoy, this is a fun build for sure.

Tips

Mike Parsons
12-21-2005, 08:49 PM
Thats sweet :).

WingTips24
12-24-2005, 05:32 PM
Mike, Glad you are enjoying it

Tips

WingTips24
12-24-2005, 05:34 PM
Make Landing Gear Brace


Partly do to not having parts in yet I ended up working on the Landing gear brace which turned out to be the best way to do it because it gave me a third point of reference to rely on for lining the plane up straight. What I did was to cut out (2) 2-inch wide, 12-inch section of 1/8-inch thick plywood. This section was just made longer than I needed so that I could cut it to length later. After cutting the two pieces of plywood I laid one piece of plywood down on inch pink foam and traced the shape. I then cut the pink foam block out. Next I sandwiched the foam block between the two halves of plywood. Be sure to cut on your line when cutting the plywood and the outside of the line when cutting the foam. The foam can be sanded easily to exact size. After test fitting the three pieces I used my Water/Elm/Poly mix to join the three pieces. I used clamps to hold them together.

This piece came out weighing 2.9 oz of which .8 oz was cut off as excess which means 2.1 oz was used for this brace.
Tips

WingTips24
12-24-2005, 05:37 PM
Connecting the Front of the Plane

For the next part I connected the front of the plane. I am doing things in this order to be sure that everything is coming out even and straight. Once you separate the two sides (panels) you will find that it is hard to keep things lined up due to the natural flex of blue core before they are joined. When I first went through everything I measured and measured again so that those first critical marks would be true throughout the build.
You could start from either end (nose or tail), but the next step is to get the opposite end done. In order to help me line up the two fuse panels I took the Landing Gear Brace and with the plane sitting upright I lined up the brace next to the panel side end touching the plane. I also stuck two pieces scrap blue core under the plane on both sides of the brace so that the brace rested on the table but the plane was elevated inch to account for the bottom panel of the plane when it is added. I now made a marker line above the part of the brace touching the plane. I double-checked this mark cause I knew the whole plane would be uneven if its wrong. After checking I then took my knife and cut out the chunk I marked. I then laid the plane flat on its side. I made sure all the lines met up and then traced the cut out chunk onto the other side. I then cut that other chunk out.

This now left me with a notch for the brace to fit in under the plane. I temporarily put the brace in (no glue) and it made the front ends line up. I then cut another piece of the same width plywood 8 long 2 wide. At this time cut in two 1-inch diameter holes in the firewall 1 inch from the middle outer edge for cooling. ( I kept the cutouts for wing installation later) ( My drawing shows this being done on the plane but I should have done it before it was glued but I forgot ). After lightly sanding the edges I lined up the sides and used epoxy it to join the Front panel/(firewall) to the front of the plane. Notice the plywood firewall is connected to the front of the inside panels not the outside ones. Also these will later be braced.

Note: The size of the firewall, landing gear brace and Canopy need to be coordinated. From the nose of the plan and going towards the tail it starts at 8 inches (nose) then reduces to 7 when it gets to the (landing gear) and finally to just over 5 inches by the time it reaches the canopy section. These have to be test fitted to be sure they will all work together in that V shape.

Tips

WingTips24
12-24-2005, 05:40 PM
Landing Gear Holes

Now that that the front has been added I went ahead and removed the brace again to drill the holes in the landing Gear Brace. I did this by locating the center of the brace and lined the landing gear inch away from the front edge of the brace. I then marked each hole and drilled the holes out. I did not actually connect the landing gear to the brace at this time because it would just be in the way. I also am not gluing the brace I just yet.
Note: my landing gear is 7 inches( width of mounting ) and 17 wide (distance between wheels).


Tips

WingTips24
12-24-2005, 05:44 PM
Adding Fuselage Rear Bottom & Gluing Landing Gear Brace

Now that I have established my two panels in place and added the Landing gear section I want to secure the bottom portion of the fuselage. When this part is done it will hold the fuselage totally straight. What I did was measure from center of the trailing edge of the landing gear brace to the tail end tip. I then measured the length between the panels from behind the Landing gear brace. Using those measurements I took a piece of Blue Core and cut out the triangular section. To be sure that the section would go on even I first epoxy the two corners behind the LG Brace of the bottom fuse section. Then I connected the tail end section. This marked all three points. I then glued the rest of the section to the fuse using a very thin 1 mm bead of hot glue.

Afterwards I glued the landing gear brace in place using 5 Min Epoxy. I did this by lightly coating the contact areas on both the cutout of the panel and the brace itself and held them together.

Weight to date: 11.2 oz


Tips

WingTips24
12-24-2005, 05:49 PM
Elevator


This next section had two possible ways of being done. I could do a simple design allowing the elevator flap to be behind the stabilizer or it could be done in front of the stabilizer. The difference being that the first one only requires hinges and is flush mounted while the other design goes through the stabilizer and the entire assemble ends just beyond the TE of the stabilizer. The difference is that acrobatic pilots prefer the 2nd design because it allows for huge throw in the rudder by keeping elevators swing out of the way. I chose this 2nd method since this is an acrobatic plane. The beauty of this plane in general is that it is flexible in that you can move things around and still meet CG needs as long as he frame is sturdy. An inch or two forward or back does not throw this plane off as far as parts placement goes as long as you balance the weight.

Making the Elevator

Much the way I sandwiched the LG brace I build the elevator from ( 2 ) inch blue core sections and ( 2 ) 1/8 inch thick by 2 3 inch wide sections of balsa.
The section cut was 16 long, inch thick and in the center it was 3 inches wide tapered down to 2 by the ends. I also added a piece of .157 Carbon Fiber Tube that was 8 inches long to the center. I wedged out a small v of foam and used the CF tube to dig the rest out. With the Tube laying flush I added a small bit of 3M77 and clamped the two halves together using the water/elm/poly mixture sponged on.
With this section bonded I then took a inch strip covering the length of the Leading edge and 3m77 glued it to the LE. I then sanded the Leading Edge to a rounded shape.

Next I marked 1-inch in from of the angle line of the stabilizer. This told me where to start the leading edge of the elevator. The distance is as follows. The non-moving part of the elevator is 3 hinge and rear fin connecting rail is 1 centimeter and the fins on the elevator is 6 inches long with 1 inch going past flush. ( hee hee see pictures) This means that the elevator will move up in down while barley going beyond the stabilizer leaving the rudder to swing free almost 180 degrees uninterupted if it could.

With that line made I measured back 3 back towards the tail. I then measured a section using the elevator line as center. I also rounded my corners to accommodate the elevators rounded leading edge. After checking these measurements I then cut that notch and repeated the process on the other side. Despite my best efforts a ruler check on a flat table may showed that I was off a little when I slid the elevator in place. I sanded one side a bit till it was even to get it even. On reflection I determined that this step could be done when the two halves are still together. Hmmnn food for thought!

Now that the first part of the elevator was in place I needed to make the flaps for it. See picture for the shape, as it will likely confuse to try to explain it. This piece was made of blue core. You will notice that the section that actually goes inside fuse and out the other side is wide. Of that inch I cut a piece of 7 inch .254 Carbon fiber Tube and notched out inch of the Blue core in order to fit the CF tube. After the CF was dry fit I cut off one side of the elevator blue core flaps leaving the entire 7-inch tube intact and epoxy the tube in place on the blue core. Adding a inch piece of basswood to over the blue core and the carbon fiber and putting epoxy to join the two halves then reinforced this. Now I had a way of joining the first half of the elevator to the second half and still being sure they would be even.

Next I cut a Pink foam wedge using the same method I did to cut the bottom of the fuselage except it was only 9 inches from the tail. This served as a support for the tail section to keep it from swaying. I glued this section in with a 1 mm bead of epoxy. ( I measure 1 mm using a toothpick and dragging the toothpick with epoxy on it on to the intended surface)
Before assembly I cut a 1 diameter half circle to allow the elevator to swing free. I then stuck the completed half through the fuselage and joined it using epoxy to the remaining half. This was then secured with a 2nd 1-centimeter wide strip of basswood sandwiching the blue core and CF between the 2 halves of basswood. This made the elevator very strong.


Trimming

Now that the Elevator was secured in but not hinged on I cut trimming pieces the width and length of the LE of the elevator on the parts that had not received any. After sanding it looked like the pictures below.




Weight to Date: 13.2 oz.. Pretty Good!

For comparison JLI in the photo below next to JLII shows the JLI at 50.6 oz (weight to Beat) with motor and 2 servos, rx, bec, motor & gearbox, landing gear while JL II sits at 11.2 oz . JLI was at roughly 22 oz at the point JLII is now in this picture. JLII is nearly half as light so far. Some of this is due to better design; some is due to better common sense. LOL! Either way so far I am pleased.

WingTips24
12-24-2005, 05:53 PM
More pictures of Elevator build

Next I marked 1-inch in from of the angle line of the stabilizer. This told me where to start the leading edge of the elevator. The distance is as follows. The non-moving part of the elevator is 3” hinge and rear fin connecting rail is 1 centimeter and the fins on the elevator is 6 inches long with 1 inch going past flush. ( hee hee see pictures) This means that the elevator will move up in down while barley going beyond the stabilizer leaving the rudder to swing free almost 180 degrees uninterupted if it could.

Tips

WingTips24
12-24-2005, 05:54 PM
Even More pics sorry 10 at a time

Now that the first part of the elevator was in place I needed to make the flaps for it. See picture for the shape, as it will likely confuse to try to explain it. This piece was made of blue core. You will notice that the section that actually goes inside fuse and out the other side is ½” wide. Of that ½ inch I cut a piece of 7 inch .254 Carbon fiber Tube and notched out ¼ inch of the Blue core in order to fit the CF tube. After the CF was dry fit I cut off one side of the elevator blue core flaps leaving the entire 7-inch tube intact and epoxy the tube in place on the blue core. Adding a ½ inch piece of basswood to over the blue core and the carbon fiber and putting epoxy to join the two halves then reinforced this. Now I had a way of joining the first half of the elevator to the second half and still being sure they would be even.


Tips

WingTips24
12-24-2005, 05:55 PM
More

In these pictures I am test fitting all the pieces and then putting them together. In order to get the two halves through the fuselage you have to assemble one half and then assemble the other half after you stick the first assembled part through the fuselage. The end will result in an even elevator flap on both sides. The part of the elevator that does not move can be slid in in one piece but to avoid cutting the entire back end through by the elevator you assemble both halves 1 at a time working through the fuselage.

Tips

WingTips24
12-24-2005, 05:57 PM
More


Mopre assembley pictures of the elevator

Tips

WingTips24
12-24-2005, 06:06 PM
more

Before assembly I cut a 1” diameter half circle to allow the elevator to swing free. I then stuck the completed half through the fuselage and joined it using epoxy to the remaining half. This was then secured with a 2nd 1-centimeter wide strip of basswood sandwiching the blue core and CF between the 2 halves of basswood. This made the elevator very strong.

Tips

Crash Test Dummy
12-24-2005, 10:33 PM
I see JL is progressing nicely. I hope you can get some video of it. If we lived closer I'd shoot it for ya. I'm sending you a PM.

CTD

Don Sims
12-25-2005, 12:02 AM
Hey Tips, how about some explanations to help newbies follow your great photos?? Please? Please!!

WingTips24
12-25-2005, 06:43 AM
Hey Tips, how about some explanations to help newbies follow your great photos?? Please? Please!!


Hey Don, the part that says elevator above has all the details of what is done in all those pics. I just could only do 10 per page so I had to put in all the illustrations in posts after it. Was there a specific part that you think I can add some more to. I would be happy to elaborate if you see an area that could use more explaination. By the way Merry Christmas everyone!

Tips

CTD - Nice of you to drop in bud! Have a happy Christmas.

crast test dummie
01-04-2006, 11:32 PM
Hope you had a great X-Mas and a Happy New Year!!

CTD

WingTips24
01-10-2006, 06:00 PM
Sure did man thanks just got back from Disney World in Florida. I will be adding some more to the thead in the next day or two been putting some hours in on the bird so I got more pics for you guys.

Tips

WingTips24
01-11-2006, 03:03 AM
For this part I took the outline that I made when I first cut the panels for the plane. I took this template and lined the outside of it with 1/2 centimeter balsa.

After this part I went ahead and made the tail wheel assemble. This consisted of 1 1/2 inch piece of carbon fiber .254 tube and some .62 music wire. After the tail wheel was made I went about assembling the rudder and tail wheel. I took some 1/4 inch balsa corner and made the hinge edge on the rudder. I took some 1 and 1/2 cent bass wood and put a strip along the rear stabilizer. I also make a small top to seal the top portion of the stabilizer.

I first put the strip on the spine of the stabilizer and then I inserted the tail wheel assembly into the slot cut out in the beginning of the build. I used epoxy for this part. I did not use the strip in one piece over the tail wheel assembly because I needed to leave a notch for the rod to connect to the rudder. I left about cent and then added a second strip to the remaining portion.

I also cut a 3 inch by inch notch into the rudder to allow the wire form the tail wheel to go in. I used two 3 inch sections of a popsicle stick to enclose the wire on both sides and used epoxy of this part as well. ( Note. I did not epoxy the wire just the two sides enclosing the wire the wire has a small amount of play 1 or two millimeters.

I cut slits in the wood and added CA hinges and joined the rudder to the stabilizer. I chose to use Dubro hinges for the rudder and I installed a pull/pull system for the rudder. I did this by cutting a wedge of pink foam from the tail of the plane to about 13 inches. I then notched out a block for the servo and used epoxy to fit it into place.

After a ton of measuring here are some pictures to illustrate what I did

Tips

WingTips24
01-11-2006, 03:05 AM
More pics of the above process

Tips

WingTips24
01-11-2006, 03:10 AM
More pics of the rudder process

Tips

WingTips24
01-11-2006, 03:13 AM
more pics of rudder process

Tips

Don Sims
01-11-2006, 03:13 AM
Your stab section looks quite stout and a really simplistic build. Steerable tail wheel?

WingTips24
01-11-2006, 03:14 AM
Don ,

Thank you yes you can steer the tail wheel and the rudder has a large sweeping area.

Tips

WingTips24
01-11-2006, 03:22 AM
Hey Don is there a limit to how many pictures I can post

Tips

Don Sims
01-11-2006, 03:33 AM
No tips not in a thread that I know of. I had to refresh to see your other two sets this evening.

WingTips24
01-11-2006, 03:42 AM
Don

I am getting this error whenever I try to load a picture any ideas?

Tips



DSCF0737.JPG:
Your file of 271.6 KB bytes exceeds the forum's limit of 97.7 KB for this filetype.

WingTips24
01-11-2006, 03:43 AM
hmm well look at that one showed up

WingTips24
01-11-2006, 03:47 AM
a few more rudder build pics

Tips

WingTips24
01-11-2006, 03:52 AM
For the next part I finished up the bottom from of the plane as. What I did here was to cut out a section of blue core to cover the bottom and also overlap over the from of the plane. The overlap is for two reasons. I for extra strength and also because I will use it to shape the front and give the plane a more realistic look. when I overlapped the from I took the film off that part but I did not score it to get the film or the blure core may slit. It actually did a liitle despite me not scoring it. I enlarged the blue core hole air hols sine real air vents are usually more oval shape.
Here are some pics

Tips

WingTips24
01-11-2006, 03:53 AM
1 more

WingTips24
01-11-2006, 03:56 AM
Just for kicks I though I would post a few side by side fuselage photos of the JLI and II togethter.

Tips

WingTips24
01-11-2006, 04:07 AM
Tail Wheel and Elevator servo installation


For this part I decided to go with a somewhat risky design for two reasons.
1. It is how I envisioned doing it and although it is hard to get too, I wanted to try it. It can always be converted later it it does not work.

2. I also did this because I did not want to end up with the problem that occurs sometimes with connecting the controll horn on either side of the elevator. Sometimes balsa can flex giving an improportionate amound to lift to the two sides. With this design the lift comes from the middle and is anchored in the cf tube for strength. Well see how it works.

What I did was to place the servo just infront of the elevator inside the plane so that it will not be seen from the outside. This does allow that the control horn can be relatively easily accessed but the servo and shorten/lengthening controls are a little harder to reach. If it balances out right these wont need to be changed but if it doesn't a hatch will be made to gain access to the rod.

Tips

WingTips24
01-11-2006, 04:13 AM
Okay,

For the next part I wanted to work on making the front end look a little more realistic in addition to adding a bit more weight proportionally to the front end of the plane since last time the plane proved to be a bit tail heavy.

Before getting started I cut the shape of the motor mount box into the existing foam on the front firwall so that I could connect to the firwall wood not the foam.

I started by drawing the motor size on a 2 inches by 2 1/2 inches 1/8 piece of plywood. I then drilled the shaft hole and put the motor flush with the plate leaving the shaft showing through on the other side. I then drew a circle around the motor and then removed the motor from the hole. Next I inserted the screws into the motor and dipped the screw heads in ink and replaced the motor back through the hole in the motor plate. This left some not so neat marks as to where the bolt hols went. With a little figiting I got all the holes lined up and drilled them out with a drill.

Next I cut two pieces of plywood 6 1/2 cm long and 2 inches high.
I then took a third piece the "motor mount plate" and cut a 2 inch piece of that. I formed a 3 sided box and used epoxy to join the three halves. To increase the strength of the box I also cut some squares on the two sides closest to the motor mount 1/2 inch by 1/2 inch and attatched them in as a corner brace. I then used epoxy to mount the box and test fit the motor and all its srews. I also cut a small hole in the side of the box to allow the wires to come from the motor and be connected to the ESC. The eSC will sit in one of the cooling vents in the nose.

Here are a few pics of the above:

Tips


Sorry guys no pictures I keep getting error messages saying the file is too big.

Crash Test Dummy
01-11-2006, 04:59 AM
Tips,

GO GO GO GO GO GO GO GO GO!!! Come on everyone lets cheer him on!!!

CTD

tone
01-24-2006, 08:17 PM
looking great and indeed much improved over your prototype!

usually you can save your images as jpgs and set the amount of compression. The more compression, the smaller the file size.

Don Sims
01-25-2006, 02:32 AM
Tips, it's wierd that you are getting error messages. Are they 640x480 or so?? I use Irfranview to size all of mine and have had not problems.

WingTips24
01-25-2006, 01:00 PM
Tips, it's wierd that you are getting error messages. Are they 640x480 or so?? I use Irfranview to size all of mine and have had not problems.

Don ,

I post on other sites and I ever do anything to the pictures and I have never had a photo not upload. When I first started posting here I never had any trouble it was just that last time. I will try again maybe it was just a hicup in the system. Lets see. I have a lot to post she is nearly done!

Tips

Don Sims
01-25-2006, 04:14 PM
Great WT, if you do have problems you might post in site complaints and convince Marc to increase the size of the photos a bit!! ;) As you may have noticed, some of the guys are following your thread with interest!

WingTips24
01-27-2006, 03:41 AM
Sorry guys I tried again today no dice on the pics loads. Not sure what to say I really would love to post this for ya.


Tips

WingTips24
01-30-2006, 12:52 AM
Hey guys if you would like to see the rest of the build here is a link to a thread where you can see the rest of the build. The link I am giving you will take you to the same place in the build where I left off here. You can post in either thread this one or that one. This way at least you can see the build. Enjoy!

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=450106&page=4&pp=15

Tips