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WWI Ace
06-05-2008, 10:10 PM
I got my August issue of Fly RC magazine and they are showing a "just released" SPAD. It is one VERY cool looking plane!! Anybody heard about it yet? Steve

degreen60
06-06-2008, 01:47 AM
Hope this sells about the same price as the electrifly SE5A. I may just have to add one of these to my hanger(my planes hang from the ceiling on clothes hangers).

WWI Ace
06-07-2008, 05:21 PM
I'm sure it will cost $99 like the rest did when new!! But now you can get the SE5a and Fokker DVII for $80 a piece and the tripe for $90 from Tower Hobbies. Steve

details
06-08-2008, 01:20 AM
Hey guys,

I was looking through my June copy of Model Aviation, the AMA's monthly magazine, when I saw this on page 22. :eek: :D All I could tell was that it looked like a new 4 bay biplane! Couldn't tell much more than that.

Then you guys started talking about a possible new Electrifly SPAD XIII. Duh!!!

There was nothing in the GP E-FEST article about the SPAD, but the picture sure looks like one. Just the fact that they are showing a larger sized photo of one in their adds means they are probably serious about bringing one out!

Let's hope it comes out soon.:D:D

Dave

degreen60
06-08-2008, 05:39 PM
Look at this, we can paint a Spad red and make Martin happy. LOL

WWI Ace
06-08-2008, 06:57 PM
Thanks for posting a picture Details!! That's the one!! Degreen, your gonna get Martin stirred up again!! Steve

7car7
06-10-2008, 05:03 PM
Saving my $$ for that one for sure!

I'm kinda debating on this or just getting a kit of the same plane. Love that one.

I really like the red striped version. Very unique!

degreen60
06-10-2008, 06:55 PM
Saving my $$ for that one for sure!

I'm kinda debating on this or just getting a kit of the same plane. Love that one.

I really like the red striped version. Very unique!


Capitaine Slade had his plane painted with red stripes while commanding SPA159. While leading by example he brought the squadron out of a pitiable state. The red stripes were so his squadron would know his plane and follow his lead.

I have a book about SPAD XII/XIII aces.

7car7
06-10-2008, 07:44 PM
I have a book about SPAD XII/XIII aces.

I have the Albatros book of that series - I was just thinking last night that I need to find the SPAD one also!

This plane may encourage some to read up on Eddie Rickenbacker - an amazing man, his actions durring and after the war made him a true hero in my eyes.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eddie_Rickenbacker

It would seem from the early pics we have of this model that it is of his plane.
I'll have to get 2! One to have like Eddies, and one to do in a more rare version like the red!

scalercflyer
06-11-2008, 02:46 AM
Don't even think about making that Spad red! :mad: Martin

WWI Ace
06-11-2008, 03:20 AM
I told ya he was gonna be mad Degreen!!! Ha ha!! Steve

degreen60
06-11-2008, 01:11 PM
I think he is mad cause I woke him up. LOL

7car7
06-11-2008, 04:27 PM
Don't even think about making that Spad red! :mad: Martin

:D

WWI Ace
06-11-2008, 06:02 PM
My hair is red. Does that mean that he doesn't like me either? Ha ha!! Steve

scalercflyer
06-13-2008, 12:17 AM
All right Boys.. I didn't want to do this but you Guys were just asking' for it! :D #1. Big and small I fly them all, how about you? :confused: #2. Anybody who thinks they need to fly an airplane that has red on it has no imagination, no class and is crippled too high for crutches. :D #3 Your minds are stuck in neutral and not going anywhere. :eek: #4. Red airplanes make good targets. :) #5. Machine gun bullets are magically attracted to red airplanes. :):) #6. Only REAL MEN fly airplanes without red on it. :):D #7. Seeing red is bad for your health and eyesight. :p> #8. Red hair can be dyed brown or blond or black or brunette or purple or green or....... :ws: #9. Red color is hard to apply to your airplane without severe repercussions to your health and well being (not to mention your airplanes!) :<: #10. Red airplanes are heavy and fly poorly. :<: #11. Red airplanes are attracted to Mother Earth at high rates of speed. ;) #12. Red airplanes land poorly and always flip on their back upon landing, thereby damaging your aircraft and embarrassing the pilot in front of his peers. :rolleyes: #13. Guys that say your airplane looks cool cause it's red are lying through their teeth and you believe it! :rolleyes::eek::D #14. Any questions about red airplanes and their owner/pilots, refer to above comments!!!!! :eek::D:D Put that in your pipes and smoke it! Martin

WWI Ace
06-13-2008, 12:21 AM
Wonder how I'd look with purple hair? Steve

scalercflyer
06-13-2008, 12:28 AM
Steve, you'd look just like one of those old Bags that go to the hair salon!!! BTW, you might want to call ahead for an appointment! HA HA HA Martin

degreen60
06-13-2008, 01:35 AM
All you see is purple hair above the red cockpit? LOL

7car7
06-13-2008, 05:15 PM
(hmmm, did anyone notice that Martin's avitar plane actually has some *gasp* red on it?)

;-)

Biplane Murphy
06-13-2008, 05:38 PM
(hmmm, did anyone notice that Martin's avitar plane actually has some *gasp* red on it?)

;-)

:D:Q:D:Q:D:Q:D <------------WW1 club having a hearty laugh.

Hmmmmmmmm a new electrifly Spad.....perhaps I will need this one too...:)
If I can get my Gal to approve the purchase in the near future....;-)

Biplane Murphy
06-13-2008, 05:44 PM
Hmmmmmm.....The Question is, "When will it be available?"

I just searched Tower Hobbies, and found nothing...:(

Biplane Murphy
06-13-2008, 05:53 PM
Google search only led to threads at RCU, RCG and Here....LOL

Checking Electrifly's website yielded nothing at all.....

Great Planes website gave me nada, zilch, nothing.....

:(:mad::(:mad::(

7car7
06-13-2008, 06:01 PM
Great Planes website gave me nada, zilch, nothing.....

:(:mad::(:mad::(

And they even have a "warning" on their FAQ section to not bug them about future planes - they advise to just submit a plane sugestion. I'm guessing that's already happened.;-)

WWI Ace
06-13-2008, 06:04 PM
It said in my Fly RC magazine, "Just released!!" Steve

Biplane Murphy
06-13-2008, 06:09 PM
LOL.....That's what they said about the DR1 last year.....I ordered it from my LHS right away...(They actually ordered it for me before I even asked since they knew I would want it)....

It took Months to get the darn thing in my hands!!!!

And now I am taking way to long recovering and painting it.....

I sure hope they make these ones available a bit quicker....;-)

details
06-13-2008, 07:59 PM
It said in my Fly RC magazine, "Just released!!" Steve
Was that in the August copy?:confused:

Maybe they put it in August figuring it would come out in August. Just a thought.:)

I hope it comes sooner than that. I also hope it is in the same weight to surface area as the SE5a! And that it looks as good as their other ships.:cool:

Dave

degreen60
06-13-2008, 09:13 PM
Anyone know anything about this SPAD?

http://www.airlandhobbies.com/catalog/2007110811584406270/2008022907390283973.htm

Biplane Murphy
06-13-2008, 09:56 PM
Anyone know anything about this SPAD?

http://www.airlandhobbies.com/catalog/2007110811584406270/2008022907390283973.htm


It looks very Patriotic.....:)

7car7
06-13-2008, 09:59 PM
Anyone know anything about this SPAD?

http://www.airlandhobbies.com/catalog/2007110811584406270/2008022907390283973.htm


Just wrote them a note, asking for details - like I bet several of you did too! :)

dk_aero
06-14-2008, 12:34 AM
It's a Dumas kit, designed by Pat Tritle...

http://www.dumasestore.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=50_63&products_id=696

WWI Ace
06-14-2008, 01:01 AM
The Electrifly plane looks really good!! It has camo covering, RED nose, machine guns, and if I remember right (I don't have the magazine with me), a red-white-blue stripe at an angle on one side of the top wing and a big white number one on the other. I think it is in the August issue of FLY RC. I'm a subscriber so I might get new issues earlier than stores. Steve

Big Fran
06-24-2008, 03:29 AM
Here is the small pic from the mag.

WWI Ace
06-24-2008, 06:07 PM
That's the one Fran!! Steve

Big Fran
06-24-2008, 08:14 PM
As soon as they come out with this one I'm going to pre-order it. Can't wait.:D

Fran

7car7
07-07-2008, 11:42 PM
More pics...

These were posted at RCGroups by tcarter (http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=107067)
"Saw the Spad at Futaba booth at Top Gun this year, heres a photo I snapped.."

SUPERSPORT
07-11-2008, 06:36 PM
I just got my second SE5 two days ago. My brother has the 2 Fokkers.

I want this one bad!

Percyflyer
07-12-2008, 01:31 PM
The Spad was supposed to have been released last year as another Electrifly series WW1 plane. I will get the scoop from Dave Johnson at the Hoosier Dawn Patrol next month.

steve

WWI Ace
07-12-2008, 01:35 PM
While you're talking to Mr. Johnson ask him if there will be more WWI planes and what they might be!! I REALLY like the looks of this Spad!! I like the fact that it looks like they spent a little more time getting a paint scheme. I didn't like how BOTH the Fokkers were red!! Steve

Percyflyer
07-12-2008, 01:46 PM
I intend too. I really hope they haven't decided to discontinue the series, as I really enjoy flying the series so far. I;m like you and wanted them to be creative on color choices, but it is a marketing/sales thing. Most guys think Fokker and think Red (Baron that is), so the Fokkers are Red. Dave's comment was "it's hard to sell something that you and I and 1 other guy likes". I would like them to offer the series as an ARC and let us choose our own covering. A lot of guys are stripping them and recovering.

steve

Big Fran
07-12-2008, 02:25 PM
I hope it comes out soon. Would like to be able to have it by the Fall. If you are looking for a Fokker in black Fly Boy Models has a Dr.1. Here is a pic. I've seen them on E-bay.

Fran

Percyflyer
07-12-2008, 03:34 PM
I have one, not together yet, but appears to be a good kit. I've dry fit it together.

steve

WWI Ace
07-13-2008, 03:19 AM
So you like the black Fokker? I don't know anybody that has built one so if you could give us more pics and info it would be greatly appreciated. Maybe Electrifly will do a Nieuport 11. Not many ARFs of them out there!!! Steve

Big Fran
07-13-2008, 09:09 AM
I haven't built mine but I did open it up to have a look. It looks nice. I don't know when I'll be building it.

Fran

scalercflyer
07-13-2008, 07:51 PM
Big Fran you are very close to me! I live in South Jersey, not far from you. Maybe we can get together for a flying session or shoot the breeze on the phone. Just let me know. Martin

7car7
07-14-2008, 05:00 PM
I would like them to offer the series as an ARC and let us choose our own covering.

amen! x2.

Percyflyer
07-21-2008, 09:47 AM
I was able to talk with Dave Johnson on Saturday about the Spad and the future of the electric series of WW1 warbirds. It doesn't look good. The Spad may or may not make it to production. They don't think it is a plane that would sell enough so it has been pushed from production by other projects. Same goes for any future WW1 birds. It's all about economics.
steve

barmonkey
07-21-2008, 03:08 PM
That's some very dis-heartening news...I certainly hope they don't give up on the Fokker D.VII and the SE5.

WWI Ace
07-21-2008, 05:57 PM
Then why do they tempt us with magazine pictures? The Spad, in my eyes, is the best looking plane so far!! At least it isn't all red!! They actually took time to do the camo. Did Mr. Johnson elaborate on what was going on with the WWI plane line? Steve

7car7
07-21-2008, 06:24 PM
This is very sad, sure had my heart set on this one. Got some OT money just burning a hole in the pocket.

Percyflyer
07-21-2008, 06:33 PM
He just stated it's not a big seller and is not top prioroty, so any WW1 stuff will be filler. The Spad is not totally dead, but they have no current plans for it. Dave's is primarily a WW1 guy, but as he said, he's got to concentrate on what sells. Right now, there are no plans to expand the WW1 electric line. I think that's too bad, but I understand economics also. I guess we will have to build what we want.

steve

Percyflyer
07-21-2008, 06:36 PM
Send them an email. Maybe if enough guys write in and say they saw the picture of the Spad and want one, Great Planes may put more importance on it and consider going ahead with the project.
steve

WWI Ace
07-21-2008, 11:17 PM
Email sounds good!! Let's do it!!! I'll send mine now!! All you guys jump on the bandwagon and see what we can get done!! Steve

Big Fran
07-21-2008, 11:36 PM
I just sent an e-mail. I hope they change their minds.

Fran

details
07-22-2008, 12:08 AM
OK, I'll e-mail them too???

Anybody have the address to post it too??

Dave

details
07-22-2008, 07:13 AM
I have the beautiful SE5a and am having a blast detailing it out. I plan on buying the Fokker DVII and then the Dr.I. But it takes time to go through and detail them the way I like to.

I was really looking forward to getting the SPAD XIII! :-( :(:(:(

HOW ABOUT IF EVERYBODY THAT WAS GOING TO BUY ONE OF THE THREE EXISTING ONES DOES IT NOW INSTEAD OF WAITING.:tc: THAT WOULD PUSH THEIR SALES UP AND POSSIBLY CONVINCE THEM TO CONTINUE THE WWI SHIPS. I'LL DO IT!!!:D

Anyway, I hope that they have a change of heart, or change of budget, and decide to produce the SPAD after all.

Dave

Percyflyer
07-22-2008, 08:34 AM
http://www.greatplanes.com/suggestion.html

try here

details
07-22-2008, 07:51 PM
Percyflyer,

Thanks very much for the link, I finally found it late yesterday and posted my promise to buy all four, incl. the SPAD XIII. (I already have the SE5a). :-)

Thanks again,
Dave

Biplane Murphy
07-22-2008, 08:21 PM
I already have the 3 they sell......if they ever put out the SPAD, I will buy it too.

I know a lot of folks who have bought 1 or more of the series, so I am not sure why they say the planes don't sell well?

details
07-22-2008, 08:53 PM
I already have the 3 they sell......if they ever put out the SPAD, I will buy it too.

I know a lot of folks who have bought 1 or more of the series, so I am not sure why they say the planes don't sell well?
Biplane Murphy,

I guess they want a larger percentage of the R/C flyers to buy them. Never enough sales when you have to justify costs.

We need to get all the guys interested in WWI biplanes (even if they are not in love with a SPAD) to chime in here and at Electrifly so that they produce Nieuports, Jennys, more Sopwith scouts, etc. This is really about them doing ANY MORE WWI aircraft!!!

Get your buddies to add their votes as well.

Dave

Percyflyer
07-22-2008, 09:48 PM
quite a few flyers around here have several as well. I have 2 of each. But, They don't sell as well as a P-51 or an AT-6 or a Cub, so that's what they release and re-release over and over again. The WW1 market is pretty small in comparison.
if you like to build, these 2 sites have plenty to offer:
http://www.aerodromerc.com/
http://www.manzanolaser.com/

steve p

details
07-22-2008, 10:44 PM
PercyFlyer,

Yea, I know about most of those kind of kits, but I never seem to finish them. I just get bored with it before I get to the good part. What I like to do is to get an ARF, then super detail it. That way I spend my available time detailing, then flying.

I did get Pat's Nieuport 17 short kit, and can't get up the go power to build it from even that!!! :-(

Anyway, thanks for the information. You are 100% right about the guys mostly buying the WWII, etc. planes. It just sucks for guys like me that need something slower and that love WWI hardware.

Thanks again,
Dave

WWI Ace
07-22-2008, 11:15 PM
To me there is NOTHING more beautiful than a bipe or a tripe flying!!! Steve

Percyflyer
07-24-2008, 10:50 AM
Ok guys, I heard from Dave Johnson about our thread and first I want to apologize to both Great Planes and you all. I did not mean to say or imply that either the Spad or the Electric Series of WW1 planes was cancelled or going to be cancelled. The Spad is still in the works, just delayed because of other projects. Sorry for creating any confusion.

steve

7car7
07-24-2008, 02:26 PM
Sorry for creating any confusion.

steve

Na, I don't see it that way, I see it as getting lot's of us to write to them and remind them that we love the WWI and Biplane stuff. Even if they were releasing it this week, I don't see a bunch of emails in support of their product as a bad thing.

Biplane Murphy
07-24-2008, 05:51 PM
Na, I don't see it that way, I see it as getting lot's of us to write to them and remind them that we love the WWI and Biplane stuff. Even if they were releasing it this week, I don't see a bunch of emails in support of their product as a bad thing.

I agree.....:tc:

WWI Ace
07-24-2008, 11:14 PM
Me too!!!

details
07-25-2008, 03:17 AM
Ok guys, I heard from Dave Johnson about our thread and first I want to apologize to both Great Planes and you all. I did not mean to say or imply that either the Spad or the Electric Series of WW1 planes was cancelled or going to be cancelled. The Spad is still in the works, just delayed because of other projects. Sorry for creating any confusion.

stevePercyflyer,

YES, YES, AND YES!!! Thanks for that news! :-)

I did e-mail Electrifly to plead with them to continue the WWI series and the SPAD XIII in particular.

GUYS - PLEASE GET EVERYBODY YOU KNOW THAT EVEN MIGHT WANT THE SPAD OR MORE WWI PLANES TO CONTACT ELECTRIFLY!!!
REMEMBER - THIS IS ABOUT MORE WWI AEROPLANES, NOT JUST THE BEAUTIFUL SPAD.

Thanks to all of you,
Dave

cocobear
08-22-2008, 04:51 PM
All, I will have a couple of the SPAD's at Hoosier Dawn Patrol this weekend.

Dave

Biplane Murphy
08-22-2008, 06:22 PM
All, I will have a couple of the SPAD's at Hoosier Dawn Patrol this weekend.

Dave

I can't wait until these become available!!

Please post a flight report or review here for us.:tc:

P.S. ----cocobear....Welcome to Wattflyer.

Backyardace
08-25-2008, 01:40 PM
I had the chance to fly the new Spad at the Hoosier Dawn Patrol. It looks and flies great. It is most like the SE5A in how it handles in the air.

Great news is the pilot will come painted.

details
08-25-2008, 05:34 PM
I had the chance to fly the new Spad at the Hoosier Dawn Patrol. It looks and flies great. It is most like the SE5A in how it handles in the air.

Great news is the pilot will come painted.
Backyardace,

Thanks for posting those great photos!!!:ws:

Were you able to get any info like wing loading, weight, etc.?

It looks like a real winner, especially if it flies similar to their SE5a. WOW:eek::D

Thanks again,
Dave

7car7
08-25-2008, 06:21 PM
plane looks great! Can't wait for this one!

All it needs is a bit of shrinking, and a nice matte spray to dull it down.

Backyardace
08-25-2008, 06:23 PM
Wingspan: 34 inches
Wing Area: 390
Weight: Approx 24 oz


Backyardace,

Thanks for posting those great photos!!!:ws:

Were you able to get any info like wing loading, weight, etc.?

It looks like a real winner, especially if it flies similar to their SE5a. WOW:eek::D

Thanks again,
Dave

Biplane Murphy
08-25-2008, 06:33 PM
Thanks for the info Backyard Ace.......:)

I can't wait for this one to become available!!

It will be a nice addition to the other 3 in my hangar.

details
08-25-2008, 08:27 PM
Wingspan: 34 inches
Wing Area: 390
Weight: Approx 24 oz
Backyardace,

WOW, great size and weight!:) Looks pretty scale proportions too.:D

Did they say any more about delivery dates? Perhaps Christmas present?

Thanks again,
Dave

Percyflyer
08-25-2008, 09:10 PM
It's supposed to be ready for a November release.

steve

scalercflyer
08-26-2008, 12:40 AM
All I have to say Boys is: I NEED ONE BAD! :eek::D:cool: Martin

Big Fran
08-26-2008, 01:05 AM
I can't wait. The pics look great.:D

Fran

WWI Ace
08-27-2008, 12:36 AM
That's too cool!! I like it!! Steve

Percyflyer
08-28-2008, 04:36 PM
http://www.hoosierdawnpatrol.com//2008pictures/mbhdp08/

check out the first batch of pictures for the 2008 Hoosier dawn patrol

steve

FlyingMonkey
08-28-2008, 05:04 PM
I had the chance to fly the new Spad at the Hoosier Dawn Patrol. It looks and flies great. It is most like the SE5A in how it handles in the air.

Great news is the pilot will come painted.

Wow, I want one!

WWI Ace
08-28-2008, 11:27 PM
I want one of everything in those Hoosier pictures!!! Steve

FlyingMonkey
08-28-2008, 11:29 PM
They were very impressive, weren't they?

Percyflyer
08-28-2008, 11:56 PM
All you have to do is start building!!

steve

FlyingMonkey
08-29-2008, 12:04 AM
and spending, don't forget that part...

Percyflyer
08-29-2008, 01:00 AM
If you don't spend it, them your wife or kids or government will take it.

sp

cocobear
08-29-2008, 02:17 PM
Really, you don't need to spend all that much. Outside of radio and engine, I have maybe $300-350 in my 1/3rd Albatros. Compared to golf or some other hobbies, that is a pitance.

Percyflyer
08-29-2008, 09:04 PM
I agree with Dave. I'm always faced with justifying my hobby to the guys who spend $15,000 on a bass boat or $2000 on that latest set of Pings. You can scractch build and be very frugle. There were several at the HDP who convert their own engines. And with the reliability of modern RC equipment, you don't have to have the latest 12 channel to fly WW1.

steve

dbcisco
08-29-2008, 10:13 PM
My wife complains about the cost of my hobby. Maybe I should ask for golf clubs for Xmas;) I would probably find gift certificates for the LHS in my stocking instead.

barmonkey
09-05-2008, 08:53 PM
Looks like some lucky boy or girl may have a Christmas wish come true!

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVTD5&P=0

Fly Time
11-18-2008, 10:47 PM
Looks like some lucky boy or girl may have a Christmas wish come true!

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVTD5&P=0

"Stock Status: Late December"

That's RC-speak for January. But they will gladly take your money now :rolleyes:

SUPERSPORT
12-21-2008, 06:01 PM
"Stock Status: Late December"

That's RC-speak for January. But they will gladly take your money now :rolleyes:

Now says January. You were right.

dbcisco
12-21-2008, 06:34 PM
Now says January. You were right.

Which means February.... may be it will be out buy summer :(

But maybe I'll have money for it then;)

Bill G
12-21-2008, 07:04 PM
I saw it on the cover of my Tower ad yesterday. Didn't realize it wasn't out yet. The Spad is the next "gotta have" WWI biplane for the collection. There are some kits out there too though. Ever since seeing Charlie Bice's (Manzano Laser Works) I've wanted one. Very colorful scheme.
http://www.manzanolaser.com/imagelib/sitebuilder/misc/show_image.html?linkedwidth=actual&linkpath=http://www.manzanolaser.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/spadside.jpg&target=tlx_new

http://www.manzanolaser.com/imagelib/sitebuilder/misc/show_image.html?linkedwidth=actual&linkpath=http://www.manzanolaser.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/sspad1.jpg&target=tlx_new

7car7
12-23-2008, 06:48 PM
http://www.manzanolaser.com/imagelib/sitebuilder/misc/show_image.html?linkedwidth=actual&linkpath=http://www.manzanolaser.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/sspad1.jpg&target=tlx_new

Love that tan one with the rooster. One of my all time favorite schemes on one of my all time favorite planes.

Hotch
03-14-2009, 07:36 PM
This is a really really nice ARF. It's well planned out and the quality is first rate. They have significantly improved it over the DVII (which ain't to shabby itself). Two big thumbs up to the Electrifly boys for continuing to improve their product!

degreen60
03-14-2009, 08:37 PM
It has the USA roundels so if I modifed the marking I won't have to print new one to make it match the ones I made for my SE5A. Last birthday wife told me to go buy a model I liked. I bought the SE5A. Maybe this year she will say the same thing and I can get this one. Now what paint scheme do I need to change it to.

Kmot
03-15-2009, 03:55 AM
The airbrush details look good, Hotch.

Hotch
03-15-2009, 03:03 PM
The airbrush details look good, Hotch.

Thanks. I just used dullcoat and spent about 10 minutes with the airbrush. I didn't want to put too much effort into it, as I tend to crash a lot! I spent days redoing my DVII into Ernst Udet's Du doch Nich! scheme only to crash it on it's 3rd flight.

degreen60
03-15-2009, 05:04 PM
Thanks. I just used dullcoat and spent about 10 minutes with the airbrush. I didn't want to put too much effort into it, as I tend to crash a lot! I spent days redoing my DVII into Ernst Udet's Du doch Nich! scheme only to crash it on it's 3rd flight.

You sound like me. I flew 3 planes this morning and have 3 planes to fix now. At least this time I did not rekit any of them. My ARF SE5A is almost a scratch built now. LOL

stevecooper
03-15-2009, 05:50 PM
[quote=degreen60;579588]You sound like me. I flew 3 planes this morning and have 3 planes to fix now. At least this time I did not rekit any of them.

degreen::"My ARF SE5A is almost a scratch built now.""
Mine too!:Q:Q:Q
Hotch (http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/member.php?u=18071):: nice job my bub! steve:ws:
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=96217&d=1237055761

SUPERSPORT
03-16-2009, 06:25 PM
How does the battery mount in this one? Like the SE5 I hope so I can cut it out and put in my 3 cells.

degreen60
03-17-2009, 01:22 PM
How does the battery mount in this one? Like the SE5 I hope so I can cut it out and put in my 3 cells.

I fly my SE5A on 1500 3s that fits without any mods.

Hotch
03-17-2009, 05:37 PM
How does the battery mount in this one? Like the SE5 I hope so I can cut it out and put in my 3 cells.

The battery is the same location as the SE5 and held with a velcro strap. Lots of room.

jobu
03-25-2009, 01:22 AM
I can't believe I read this whole thread. Will it come out , won't it...anyway I'm glad. I never really wanted a WW1 bipe but after seeing the Spad in the Tower catalogue...I'm in...looks awesome. I've looked at many pics but can't seem to find where the battery hatch is located.
In the last post by Hotch says "same as Sopwith" but I don't know where that is either.
Can anyone fill me in and any otther information so I know what to expect.
I will probably fly 1375 3s or smaller...I even have some old Kokam 1500s
Hopin' theres room.
How's the recomended Rimfire motor...any other suggestions?
Thanks alot,
Joe

dbcisco
03-25-2009, 01:50 AM
In Stock at TowerHobby $109 - limited quantities

http://www.towerhobbies.com/products/greatplanes/gpma1143.html

dogsheep
03-25-2009, 02:48 AM
I can't believe I read this whole thread. Will it come out , won't it...anyway I'm glad. I never really wanted a WW1 bipe but after seeing the Spad in the Tower catalogue...I'm in...looks awesome. I've looked at many pics but can't seem to find where the battery hatch is located.
In the last post by Hotch says "same as Sopwith" but I don't know where that is either.
Can anyone fill me in and any otther information so I know what to expect.
I will probably fly 1375 3s or smaller...I even have some old Kokam 1500s
Hopin' theres room.
How's the recomended Rimfire motor...any other suggestions?
Thanks alot,
Joe


The Rimfire is adequate but "best" for a simple fit, with no modifications. If the hatch is like the Camel, it's under the turtledeck, in front of the pilot.

jobu
03-25-2009, 03:29 AM
Thanks db and dogshhep!
I am so on the fence with next weeks check...
Love the Spad and the P-47 http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVVG5&P=ML

Totally different but leaning towards the Spad...I've already wrecked several nice P51s and think it's time for a change.
Joe

cocobear
03-25-2009, 02:27 PM
The top hatch and guns come off on magnets for battery access.

Ryan Flyer
04-21-2009, 03:01 PM
Hi all, do any of you now of a kit (not ARF) for this plane?
Thanks
Ryan

7car7
04-21-2009, 03:50 PM
Hi all, do any of you now of a kit (not ARF) for this plane?
Thanks
Ryan

http://www.aerodromerc.com/

They have a few different ones. I've never bought any, but I hear they are very nice.

degreen60
04-21-2009, 04:49 PM
Hi all, do any of you now of a kit (not ARF) for this plane?
Thanks
Ryan

Guillows, Sterling, Comet made kits and can be found on ebay sometimes. You need to know what scale you want. I think I have seen kits for the spad other than these and the ones AerodomeRC sells.

degreen60
04-21-2009, 05:07 PM
Here is a Cleveland and a Guillows kit.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Model-Kit-Guillows-French-Spad-Kit-102_W0QQitemZ260396621220QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_Def aultDomain_0?hash=item260396621220&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2%7C65%3A10%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318%7 C301%3A0%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50 (http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Model-Kit-Guillows-French-Spad-Kit-102_W0QQitemZ260396621220QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_Def aultDomain_0?hash=item260396621220&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2%7C65%3A10%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318%7 C301%3A0%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50)

http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-CLEVELAND-Spad-XIII-model-airplane-kit-SF13B_W0QQitemZ250407156516QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_D efaultDomain_0?hash=item250407156516&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2%7C65%3A10%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318%7 C301%3A1%7C293%3A2%7C294%3A50

Ryan Flyer
04-21-2009, 05:25 PM
Thank for your help!!
Ryan

scalercflyer
04-23-2009, 12:14 AM
http://www.aerodromerc.com/

Here you go Ryan! These kits are excellent! Just ask WWI Ace. Marty

degreen60
04-23-2009, 12:25 AM
Here is a Dumas kit.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTKS5

WWI Ace
04-23-2009, 01:37 AM
You also might try www.manzanolaser.com (http://www.manzanolaser.com) for some cool WWI short kits!!! Anything Aerodrome sells is great too!! I have kits from both and they are good stuff!!!! Steve

Ryan Flyer
04-23-2009, 03:45 PM
Thank you all.!! Those all look like great kits.

I have a friend who suggested the electric fly one because he thinks it would fly great (like the SE5 that he has).

Do you now if any of these kits would have the same flight characteristics as electric fly ones?http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/images/smilies/confuse.gif

Thanks for your help!!!

Ryan

dbcisco
04-23-2009, 04:34 PM
I think that there is much more variability in a kit as opposed to an ARF. While one persons kit may be vastly different from another's version of the same kit, everyone's ARF's of a particular mfg's model will be pretty close in characteristics (given similar options).

7car7
04-23-2009, 05:23 PM
I'd think the biggest difference between a kit and an arf, is the kit SHOULD be lighter, and therefore be able to fly a bit slower, and have a gentler stall. Other than that, not much difference in flight.

But like dbcisco said, people build different.

dbcisco
04-23-2009, 07:06 PM
My ARFs are the light, slow flyers. My kitbashed ones are usually bricks, but I love them more:$

WWI Ace
04-24-2009, 01:43 AM
It is a question of do you want to build or not. Some like to build, some don't. Building is almost like therapy to me sometimes. Steve

dbcisco
04-24-2009, 03:13 AM
I like building them more than flying them.

Ryan Flyer
04-24-2009, 03:54 PM
I like to build to and I thought that it would also be cheeper to do so rather then buying a ARF?
Ryan

7car7
04-24-2009, 04:50 PM
I think not - at least for me. Seems I put a LOT of money into scratch or kitbashed planes. Just depends on the person though. SO many variables with kits and scratch builds, compared to ARF.

I would not get an ARF to save money, or a kit to save money. I'd get an ARF to save time, and a kit because you want it YOUR way. (your way as in finish, paint scheme, custom framing, whatever...)

cherokee
05-14-2009, 02:19 PM
I just picked up last weekend a spad, this is the first "tube and fabric" plane for me, everything else has been a foamy, and I think that I am ready for this next step in the hobby.

I am looking at using a different motor to power the plane, I found one that is the same dementions, a tad more powerfull and a hole lot more inexpensive. I have had good luck with stuff from hobbycity before and think that this motor and esc is going to work good in this plane...just by looking at the specs.

The question is....and forgive me if it is a stupid question is the mounting of the motor....the stock mount has three hole mount and every other motor I can find uses a four hole mount. How are you getting around this problem, what is the best way to get around the problem. Do you just make a new mount? and if so what do you use? Do you drill additional holes in the existing mount and then fill the holes not used?

Thanks for the help.

Fly Time
05-14-2009, 03:07 PM
I don't actually have the Spad (not yet), but I am about to put together an Electrify Seawind. I will have the same issue as Great Planes makes all their ARF's with the goofy 3-hole mount to accept their RimFire motors, which I do not plan on using.

I haven't looked closely yet at mine, but modifying motor mounts has become somewhat of a specialty because I'm such a cheapskate when it comes to buying motors :D

You may get lucky and just be able to drill new holes into the mount wall without replacing any wood. There is usually no need to fill the old holes unless the new ones are so close that you are concerned about strength. The one time I had to do that I used a product called QuikWood, available at the harware store. It's an epoxy putty designed to fill holes in wood, and it dries hard and strong.

If you do have to replace wood, get yourself some thin plywood from the LHS or craft store and some 5-minute epoxy. Whatever solution you come up with will probably use both. You may have to cut out the center of the existing mount wall and glue some new plywood to either the front or back, but its unlikely you will have to rebuild it altogether.

When substituting motors, just be carefull to watch the thrust angle built into the mount or firewall (keep it the same) and the positioning of the shaft through the cowling.

Good luck, and post some pictures of what you work out. I'll do the same with mine as I believe the mounts are very similar even though the planes are very different.

Biplane Murphy
05-14-2009, 05:32 PM
I just picked up last weekend a spad, this is the first "tube and fabric" plane for me, everything else has been a foamy, and I think that I am ready for this next step in the hobby.

I am looking at using a different motor to power the plane, I found one that is the same dementions, a tad more powerfull and a hole lot more inexpensive. I have had good luck with stuff from hobbycity before and think that this motor and esc is going to work good in this plane...just by looking at the specs.

The question is....and forgive me if it is a stupid question is the mounting of the motor....the stock mount has three hole mount and every other motor I can find uses a four hole mount. How are you getting around this problem, what is the best way to get around the problem. Do you just make a new mount? and if so what do you use? Do you drill additional holes in the existing mount and then fill the holes not used?

Thanks for the help.

I have 4 of those planes with that mount.

3 I put e-flits 480 motors in.

I had to make new mounts that used the 3 mount to firewall bolts, and 4 motor to mount screws. I used flat aluminum stock to make my mounts.

Fly Time
05-14-2009, 05:45 PM
I take it back...

the Spad and Seawind motor mounts are not all that similar after all.

Spad (http://www.electrifly.com/largeelectrics/gpma1143-motor-lrg.jpg)

Seawind (http://www.electrifly.com/largeelectrics/gpma5750-installed-2.jpg)

About the only thing that is similar is that the motor mounts to the rear of the mounting bracket.

I've been following the Spad thread here and at RCG, and there are a number of guys over there who have modified the motor mount to accept a different motor.

dbcisco
05-14-2009, 05:58 PM
Why all the fuss? drill four pilot hole where they are needed for your mount. If offset isn't built in, make a shim-plate. Did this on my Jenny (http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb237/dbcisco/jenny3.jpg)which was made for a tube mount.

Biplane Murphy
05-14-2009, 06:34 PM
Why all the fuss? drill four pilot hole where they are needed for your mount. If offset isn't built in, make a shim-plate. Did this on my Jenny (http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb237/dbcisco/jenny3.jpg)which was made for a tube mount.

Not a lot of wood to work with on this plane. The stock Mount is very slender supported by 3 tubes/bolts, And the motor is in a hole in the firewall. It presents unique challenges...LOL

dbcisco
05-14-2009, 07:39 PM
Not a lot of wood to work with on this plane. The stock Mount is very slender supported by 3 tubes/bolts, And the motor is in a hole in the firewall. It presents unique challenges...LOL

The same on the jenny, the wood plate I made not only gives offset but support that the original firewall didn't have. Heck it didn't need it with the tube mount system. I think on a nose in the the jenny would crumble and the mount plate would be intact.;-)

cherokee
05-14-2009, 08:32 PM
Thanks for all the tips, I am thinking that building a new mount out of some circuit board??? or perhaps some light ply??? Might be the best solution, I am a little worried about how strong the stock mount would be after I re-drill the 4 bolt pattern, even if I fill it with some kind of patch.

Fly Time
05-14-2009, 09:24 PM
Thanks for all the tips, I am thinking that building a new mount out of some circuit board??? or perhaps some light ply??? Might be the best solution, I am a little worried about how strong the stock mount would be after I re-drill the 4 bolt pattern, even if I fill it with some kind of patch.

Circuit board, huh? Maybe. I would think light ply is easier to work with. But keep in mind that the Spad is not a very heavy plane, so the mount doesn't have to be extraordinarily strong. It needs to be able to securely support the weight of the plane when you are hanging it on the prop. I would try to mount it by re-drilling first then see how sturdy it feels.

C130 Load
05-14-2009, 09:42 PM
modifying motor mounts has become somewhat of a specialty because i'm such a cheapskate when it comes to buying motors :d



roflmao ;) :Q

cherokee
05-15-2009, 03:08 PM
Circuit board, huh? Maybe. I would think light ply is easier to work with. But keep in mind that the Spad is not a very heavy plane, so the mount doesn't have to be extraordinarily strong. It needs to be able to securely support the weight of the plane when you are hanging it on the prop. I would try to mount it by re-drilling first then see how sturdy it feels.

I am planning on picking up some light ply tonight, I just have access to tons of printed circuit board...and it is very strong....I have used it in place of fiberglass rods in my easy*.

The plane is very light, and small...it is actually the same size as my baby GWS Tiger Moth.

I ordered the motor last night only to find out that the wife wants to go into town tonight...figures...I could have had the thing together this weekend.

Thanks for all the tips and help.

Fly Time
05-15-2009, 05:27 PM
I ordered the motor last night only to find out that the wife wants to go into town tonight...figures...I could have had the thing together this weekend.
We are living parallel lives :rolleyes: While I am out tonight, my Seawind will be sitting on the bench begging to be built in time to fly on Sunday. Probably not going to happen.

cherokee
05-15-2009, 05:43 PM
There are advantages to living out in the boonies, I am about an hour and a half away from the closest hobby store.

But I am working on building my own runway, not sure if I am going to do dirt or sod. I have about 40ac to fly around and not too many trees to worry about.

I race off and on RC cars in the winter, and some of those guys fly, after the runway gets built thinking of having a little get together with burgers and such...should be fun. I am also working on an off road RC car track in the back yard.

Should be a nice setup when everything gets finished....and the best part is that RC planes and race cars are cheaper then the real deal, I still have two race cars and sold the real plane a few years ago. So far the wife has no problem in what I am doing.....she is a keeper, even after 25years.

cherokee
05-24-2009, 03:36 AM
I have just put the finishing touches on the plane toinght. I ended up making a new motor mount out of a sheet of plexiglass. It was very light and very strong. I think it is going to be a good solution to the problems.

If the wind it good Sun. I will give it the first flight. I have the video camera charging, so hopefully I will have a good video for everyone.

WWI Ace
05-25-2009, 04:12 PM
Maidened my little GP Fokker D7 this morning and it flew great!! It is definitely a keeper!!! Steve

Biplane Murphy
05-25-2009, 08:48 PM
Maidened my little GP Fokker D7 this morning and it flew great!! It is definitely a keeper!!! Steve

Heck Yeah!!

I have kept mine for a couple years now. Since they first became available. I love that little plane.

WWI Ace
05-25-2009, 09:47 PM
I've had mine for a couple of years and just got around to building it. Steve

cherokee
05-26-2009, 06:55 PM
Still waiting for the chance to get mine in the air, super windy, then nothing but rain. The weather guessers are saying it should clear mid week.

WWI Ace
05-26-2009, 10:01 PM
There used to be a chocolate milk commercial on when I was a kid that had a silly brown rabbit on it that said, "Patience is a virtue!!" LOL Steve

cherokee
05-27-2009, 02:20 AM
I agree, and I can wait for a still evening. If it flys half as good as it looks hanging in the bacement it will be a winner.

cherokee
05-29-2009, 02:22 AM
IT FLYS....

Sorry no video, kid was out on his minibike and wife was talking to her mother....some people have no understanding of priorities :)

A perfect cool night...execpt for the mosquitos.....I had a little trouble on my very rough strip getting it to take off, it kept wanting to nose over. Flew great a little trim adjustment and I was making nice gentle circuits. What a nice flying plane. Came in for a landing and it was a squeeker...went off the edge of the runway into the tall grass but no damage to the plane but the pilot had about a million mosquito bites.

I flew around at a little less then 1/2 throttle and it was very scale, I never did hit the gas, I like this setup very much. I only flew for about 5 minutes but the battery still had almost 4v in each cell. Flying on a 3c 1300.

I love this plane and can see it will get a great deal of air time, weather permitting.

Thanks for all the help on this thread in motor and prop selection, I think it made all the difference in my successful maiden flight.

I have gone from an Easy* to a GWS Zero, to a PZ Corsair, and now the spad....all are still flying, and all done in just 3 months.

YEPPIE!!!!!

Biplane Murphy
05-29-2009, 05:14 AM
IT FLYS....

Sorry no video, kid was out on his minibike and wife was talking to her mother....some people have no understanding of priorities :)

A perfect cool night...execpt for the mosquitos.....I had a little trouble on my very rough strip getting it to take off, it kept wanting to nose over. Flew great a little trim adjustment and I was making nice gentle circuits. What a nice flying plane. Came in for a landing and it was a squeeker...went off the edge of the runway into the tall grass but no damage to the plane but the pilot had about a million mosquito bites.

I flew around at a little less then 1/2 throttle and it was very scale, I never did hit the gas, I like this setup very much. I only flew for about 5 minutes but the battery still had almost 4v in each cell. Flying on a 3c 1300.

I love this plane and can see it will get a great deal of air time, weather permitting.

Thanks for all the help on this thread in motor and prop selection, I think it made all the difference in my successful maiden flight.

I have gone from an Easy* to a GWS Zero, to a PZ Corsair, and now the spad....all are still flying, and all done in just 3 months.

YEPPIE!!!!!

Congratulations on the great maiden.

3 months....Wow....Learned really fast!!

degreen60
05-29-2009, 11:30 AM
I have gone from an Easy* to a GWS Zero, to a PZ Corsair, and now the spad....all are still flying, and all done in just 3 months.

YEPPIE!!!!!

I been flying RC electric about 3 years and I still crash on maiden flights.

cherokee
05-29-2009, 01:49 PM
I think that a big part of the reason for my fast progress is that I can fly in my front yard....I live on 10ac and there is farm land all around me, the front yard where I fly is pretty open for about 40ac to the east and about 20ac to the west, the front yard to the street is about 6ac. A big long rectangle. There are some trees that make some approch to landing a problem, but it is not too bad. I have to fly in the front yard as the planes bother the horses in the back pasture.

Weather permitting I usually get about 3 flights a night. Before this plane it was two in the PZ corsair and one in the Zero.

But I now know the second most important thing to electric flight....

OFF the stuff that keeps the bugs away :)

I guess if I liked nitro a couple of low passes is all it would take to keep the mosquitos away ;)

Ryan Flyer
05-29-2009, 06:41 PM
Congratulations cherokee, on you maiden. I am just getting started in rc (learning on a PZ cub) but I want to build this plane. I love the the WW1 stuff because I live 30 min. from the Rhinebeck Aerodrome.
Ryan

cherokee
05-31-2009, 01:42 AM
This plane does fly very well, for myself I would rather do a foam plane first then the balsa Spad. It does have no bad habits but I would want one complex plane under my belt first.

I did have a close call on my dawn patrol today, I was flying along and thinking that the plane was crabing quite a bit...I was thinking I must have hit the rudder trim...a slight adjustment....nothing.....wow I must have realy bumped it, I can't wait till my new comptuer radio comes in. A little more adjustment...still nothing...what is going on here....I move the stick all the way one dir then the other...nothing...oh no this is bad. Come in for a landing....you cant line up with the runway real well without all the flight controls, not to mention telling the plane where to go once on the ground.

The horn on the rudder came un-glued. I must have not roughed it up good enough. This was its third flight, and it passed the pre-flight tests. Second time I have had a control surface fail in flight...hope that I have those problems out of my system.

dbcisco
05-31-2009, 01:54 AM
I use the "snap-on retainer" horns on my foamies. No glue at all. So far so good (knock on wood). I'll see if I can find an unopened pack and post details later.

cherokee
06-04-2009, 02:50 AM
I lost the rudder again tonight...I don't know why I keep having a problem with this one control surface. If anyone could give me a link or part number to the items that dbcicso talked about, or has another suggestion that would be great. I almost lost the plane tonight due to the failure....again it happend in flight. I did a taxi run to the end of my runway and back using the rudder to keep the plane lined up. Then after a few minutes in the air it acts all nutty and I almost lost it.

Please help.

dbcisco
06-04-2009, 03:28 AM
Here are the ones that come with GWS foamies (from BPhobbies). On the left of the pic are the retainers. I got some similar ones at the LHS and thought they were DuBro but the DuBro site doesn't seem to have them listed. They can come loose in time but if they do some epoxy will keep them on:$ Love these horns.

http://www.bphobbies.com/img/gwp/pstick/P-STICK-FAS6.jpg

7car7
06-04-2009, 03:42 PM
I lost the rudder again tonight...

This is interesting. I'm assuming you used the stock carbon fiber horns? What did you glue them in with? I'll again make an assumption, that you used CA. What kind of CA? THick or thin?

What I've done, is take a hobby knife, and cut a tiny portion of the film covering away from where the horn will go - not just a slot, but actually a rectangle hole, slightly larger than the "end surface" of the horn. When the horn is in place, prior to gluing, you should see maybe 1/32" of balsa surounding the horn. THEN glue with thin CA. I like to also use thick, once the thin is set. And also accelerator (kicker) to help build up a fillet around the edges. You can also rough up the flat surface of the horn before inserting it, with sandpaper - maybe 100 or 150 grit.

I've never had one come loose, even after slaming one into a goal post.

cherokee
06-04-2009, 06:22 PM
It is very strange....I have never had this problem before, and don't on any of the other control surfaces.

I did scuff it up with some sand paper, not sure on the grit, and did cut away just the hole where the tab sticks into the rudder. Using thin CA.

I checked for binding and there is NONE...you can blow on the rudder and get it to move...it is just the darndest thing. I double checked all other surfaces and they all seem good and tight.

I came this close to loosing the plane last night, I have no idea how I saved it. I have to get this figured out.

I was thinking about cleaning off the horn again and trying some epoxy this time....I also do have some of the GWS horns talked about above in my junk box...might give one of those a shot with CA to hold the back tab on.

This was also like the third flight on the plane of the night, did the taxi test flew, showed the wife a nice landing, taxi back, take off again, land switch batts, then flew for a few minutes and wammo.

????

dbcisco
06-04-2009, 06:35 PM
Gremlins?

7car7
06-04-2009, 06:59 PM
wierd. I was envisioning a slit in the covering, and when the horn was inserted, the glue was only hitting the covering, not the wood. Does NOT sound like the case. wow.

cherokee
06-04-2009, 07:22 PM
YEA!!!....you can look in and see the wood. I was starting to think it could be old CA...don't know if it goes bad over time, but it sure sticks my fingers together good :silly: And the last time I re-glued I not shy about using some glue.

I think I might try some 2 part 30min epoxy tonight, that stuff will stick to anything after it sets-up. If that does not work I don't know....it is the strangest thing, it is like the glue is not binding to the wood.

dogsheep
06-04-2009, 07:28 PM
YEA!!!....you can look in and see the wood. I was starting to think it could be old CA...don't know if it goes bad over time, but it sure sticks my fingers together good :silly: And the last time I re-glued I not shy about using some glue.

I think I might try some 2 part 30min epoxy tonight, that stuff will stick to anything after it sets-up. If that does not work I don't know....it is the strangest thing, it is like the glue is not binding to the wood.


Try this, you won't believe it: take good quality toilet paper and make a "paste" with Elmer's white glue. Use the paste in large quantities to fix and fillet the horn in place. Let it dry overnight.

Fly Time
06-04-2009, 08:12 PM
Try this, you won't believe it: take good quality toilet paper and make a "paste" with Elmer's white glue. Use the paste in large quantities to fix and fillet the horn in place. Let it dry overnight.
Like scented Charmin? :D

cherokee
06-05-2009, 02:42 AM
Well you are not going to believe this, I tried a new horn not the GWS type but another soft plastic type. I also took a hobby knife and worked on the slot in the rudder a bit to make sure it would bite into wood. I CA'ed the horn into place. About an hour later I went to check and it seemed in there very well. so I re-attached the rod and did some more testing...seemed real good....so out for a test flight.

I FORGOT THE STUPID ANTENNA ON THE TRANSMITTER.....AAAAARRRRRGGGGHHHHH!!!!

It flew about 50ft and then rolled over and nosed into the ground, broke the shaft off the motor, broke up the red plastic engine cover, and busted up the lower wing pretty well.

I feel so stupid....and depressed, I loved this plane.

I guess I will learn how to repair balsa I will take some pics and post up, I don't think it is too bad, I have never repaired a balsa plane before I know I will need some help with the repair.

dogsheep
06-05-2009, 02:42 PM
Be sure to rebuild on the light side: avoid epoxy or other heavy glues-it is inevitable, but try to keep it light!

7car7
06-05-2009, 03:55 PM
I think most of us have done this. I know I have. Just part of the hobby. Hopefully part of LEARNING, and not habbit!;-)

I smacked my SE5 into a goal post. I stripped the wings, and found more damage than I thought initially.

But don't give up, you'll get it. And yes! Repair light!

cherokee
06-05-2009, 05:59 PM
Thanks for the nice words. It is so dis-hearting when something like this happens, I did this once before with a gws Zero.

I think I may toss the 2.4 radio in my PZ Corsair and put in a FM rec. It is teaching me bad habbits.

That or stick a sticker on my FM trans that says:

"PUT UP THE ANTENNA YOU STUPID F@&%"

Fly Time
06-06-2009, 12:36 AM
Oh man, sorry to hear about that! 7car is right: most of us will do something like that at least once. I did it with my E-Flite P-47 once, but realized my mistake just in time. Pulled the antenna out and got back on the sticks with no more than a second to spare :rolleyes:

I've also flown with the ailerons reversed. Briefly.

But the good news is that you will probably never make the same mistake twice, at least not one that costs you an airplane (I'm knocking on wood).

WWI Ace
06-06-2009, 04:02 PM
I know that I've made more than my share of bonehead mistakes!! If I crash a plane I usually wait till the next day to start fixing it. It seems like the damage isn't as bad as you first thought because your brain has time to "get over" crashing your plane. Steve

cherokee
06-08-2009, 03:38 PM
I went out last weekend and bought the Monocote, an Iron and a heat gun. Going to try to repair it. I did repair the wood, and amazingly nothing realy broke, ribs tore loose from the front and back, in several places but no shattered wood. I did have to cut almost all the existing covering from the wing.

I am going to start to read some threads on how to cover, I read the instructions on the monocote pack but there was not too much there.

While I was there I also bought the DR1. I will get started on the repair after I get the P-39 a little more finished...try to order all the electrics at once for the DR1, the replacement motor for the Spad, and the batts, esc and motor for the P-39.

Its still cheaper then racing....and crashes still hurt less.

dogsheep
06-08-2009, 03:46 PM
You will NEED lots of help setting up the DR-1: when ready, let me know as the maiden, if not prepared, will likely be a heartbreaking disaster!

cherokee
06-09-2009, 03:32 AM
Is the DR1 that much worse then the Spad? I did read about motor mount failures, but I was thinking that was about all I had to worry about.

Biplane Murphy
06-09-2009, 05:59 AM
Is the DR1 that much worse then the Spad? I did read about motor mount failures, but I was thinking that was about all I had to worry about.

Think extra squirrely and super twitchy.....Really need to get the balance right!

I fiberglassed the motor mount on mine. (still haven't maidened it)

I test flew one that I assembled for a friend, and while trimming it out, during the maiden flight, the motor mount failed and the prop ate the cowl like a cuisenart!! :eek:
However, I was still able to land it without a motor in the plane, and it being tail heavy.

cherokee
06-09-2009, 02:59 PM
Think extra squirrely and super twitchy.....Really need to get the balance right!

I fiberglassed the motor mount on mine. (still haven't maidened it)

I test flew one that I assembled for a friend, and while trimming it out, during the maiden flight, the motor mount failed and the prop ate the cowl like a cuisenart!! :eek:
However, I was still able to land it without a motor in the plane, and it being tail heavy.


Well thats what you get for using a LeRhone instead of the Oberursel :)

I will keep in mind that it is sensitive to balance, I figured it might also be touchy to the throws on the surfaces, being such a short little beastie.

dogsheep
06-09-2009, 03:12 PM
It is very, very pitch sensitive, and tends to drop the nose hard in a banked turn. I will not discuss landings with you, ever.

Biplane Murphy
06-09-2009, 05:44 PM
I will not discuss landings with you, ever.

:D:Q:D:Q:D

Here's my almost done recovered and painted GP Dr1.
Just the Crosses on the wings, and the red "LO" on the Fuselage, left to paint. :)

Although, she is all set up, and ready for flight now. :)

WWI Ace
06-09-2009, 10:49 PM
"Murph the ARTIST!!!" Makes me almost ashamed of the way my planes look!!! Steve

Biplane Murphy
06-10-2009, 06:10 AM
"Murph the ARTIST!!!" Makes me almost ashamed of the way my planes look!!! Steve

Thanks Steve!

If you saw my other WW1 planes, you would laugh.
They look like they have seen serious combat.....LOL
:Q

BEAR-AvHistory
06-12-2009, 05:18 PM
I got the following recomendations for the SPAD & DR.1, any thoughts?

2830-09 motor (mhtml:{DD82A735-FD66-4774-863F-90CDC6EABB8F}mid://00000018/!x-usc:http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the-1424/2830-dsh-09-Outrunner-Brushless-Electric/Detail)
20A ESC (mhtml:{DD82A735-FD66-4774-863F-90CDC6EABB8F}mid://00000018/!x-usc:http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the-1413/20A-POWER-UP-Brushless/Detail)
TP 10x5E prop (mhtml:{DD82A735-FD66-4774-863F-90CDC6EABB8F}mid://00000018/!x-usc:http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the-1270/TP--10-x/Detail)
11.1v 1300 20C Lipo battery (mhtml:{DD82A735-FD66-4774-863F-90CDC6EABB8F}mid://00000018/!x-usc:http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the-1318/Lipo-Battery-11.1v-1300mah/Detail)

dbcisco
06-12-2009, 07:38 PM
I got the following recomendations for the SPAD & DR.1, any thoughts?

2830-09 motor (mhtml:{DD82A735-FD66-4774-863F-90CDC6EABB8F}mid://00000018/!x-usc:http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the-1424/2830-dsh-09-Outrunner-Brushless-Electric/Detail)
20A ESC (mhtml:{DD82A735-FD66-4774-863F-90CDC6EABB8F}mid://00000018/!x-usc:http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the-1413/20A-POWER-UP-Brushless/Detail)
TP 10x5E prop (mhtml:{DD82A735-FD66-4774-863F-90CDC6EABB8F}mid://00000018/!x-usc:http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the-1270/TP--10-x/Detail)
11.1v 1300 20C Lipo battery (mhtml:{DD82A735-FD66-4774-863F-90CDC6EABB8F}mid://00000018/!x-usc:http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the-1318/Lipo-Battery-11.1v-1300mah/Detail)

Links don't work.

BEAR-AvHistory
06-13-2009, 02:10 AM
Links don't work.

Worked when I just checked it, here is the url for the motor & ESC

http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the-1424/2830-dsh-09-Outrunner-Brushless-Electric/Detail



http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the-1413/20A-POWER-UP-Brushless/Detail

dbcisco
06-13-2009, 03:30 AM
Works fine now. Just a note to all, check that links begin with http. Others such as mhtml won't always work. Also, picture links need to end with .jpg this can be a problem when trying to get pics from photobucket etc. embedded.

Percyflyer
06-13-2009, 04:12 AM
I would use the 2830-10 motor. It will handle the 10" prop better. I have both of these planes. Your combo should fly both. You will have to make a new motor mount as both are mounted reversed. I used the Rimfire in the DR1 and a Turnigy in the Spad.

BEAR-AvHistory
06-13-2009, 04:42 AM
I used the Rimfire in the DR1 and a Turnigy in the Spad.

I have a Turnigy SK 28-26- 1350Kv 260W in my RC Green Albatross from Maxford & it seems to run hot pulling about 20amps & 180 watts.

That being said have had very good luck with thier batteries.

Percyflyer
06-13-2009, 10:26 AM
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=2112&Product_Name=TR_28-30B_14A_1050Kv_Brushless_Outrunner

This is the motor I am using in my Spad, W/ a 10x6 prop, it pulls 14 amps WO. It cruises at less than 1/2 throttle and pulls 9 amps. Motor never gets hot.

Percyflyer
06-13-2009, 10:31 AM
I would choose a motor with lower KV so you can run a larger prop. Specs say a 7x4 is recommended prop on 3 cells and 18 amps. The Albi needs a larger prop w/ less rpms. Don't know what prop you are using, but 20 amps is exceeding your motors specs. Try a smaller prop.

WWI Ace
06-13-2009, 02:09 PM
Pretty good advice!! You need a lower Kv (700-900) for WWI planes so you can swing a bigger prop. You want power, not speed. Steve

degreen60
06-13-2009, 03:46 PM
Here is the motor I am using on my GP SE5A which probably is about the same as the Spad. I am using a 9x7 prop and it pulls a max of 10 amps on 3s lipo. I spend most of the time flying half throtle. I like the extra power it has when I need to get out of trouble.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=664&Product_Name=TowerPro_Brushless_Outrunner_2410-08T_890kv

BEAR-AvHistory
06-14-2009, 01:40 AM
I would choose a motor with lower KV so you can run a larger prop. Specs say a 7x4 is recommended prop on 3 cells and 18 amps. The Albi needs a larger prop w/ less rpms. Don't know what prop you are using, but 20 amps is exceeding your motors specs. Try a smaller prop.

It has a 9X6 SF - E prop. Will most likely get a new motor for the D. III

Percyflyer
06-14-2009, 05:14 AM
Just test flew my friends DIII this evening. His motor got very hot also. After we did some thinking and checking, we decided that there is very little airflow going over the motor. We flew it without the bottom nose piece and the motor ran considerably cooler. The over heating might not be the motor, but lack of cooling. He is going to check amp draw and maybe lower pitch on prop. But we think some type of air scoop on the bottom to provide cooling air might be the answer.
BTW, I also flew my Spad with the Turnigy 28-30-14b motor, 9x4.5 APC slow flyer prop, and with 10 minutes of aggressive flying the motor was ambient.

BEAR-AvHistory
06-14-2009, 02:26 PM
Just test flew my friends DIII this evening. His motor got very hot also. After we did some thinking and checking, we decided that there is very little airflow going over the motor. We flew it without the bottom nose piece and the motor ran considerably cooler. The over heating might not be the motor, but lack of cooling. He is going to check amp draw and maybe lower pitch on prop. But we think some type of air scoop on the bottom to provide cooling air might be the answer.
BTW, I also flew my Spad with the Turnigy 28-30-14b motor, 9x4.5 APC slow flyer prop, and with 10 minutes of aggressive flying the motor was ambient.

Thanks for the info. Would be great to get an update on how you make out with the D.III.

cocobear
06-15-2009, 06:59 PM
Degreen60, the SPAD requires a bit more power than the SE5. I flew my SE for years with a FlatOut REimFire with good performance. When I was doing development6 of this plane I flew it with that same motor (late night, had one on the bench, blah blah blah) and while it flew OK, it lacked authority.

Percyflyer
06-15-2009, 07:46 PM
Hey dave , what prop did you find best for the Spad??? BTW, I have all 5 flying now, waiting on number 6.

steve

cocobear
06-15-2009, 07:49 PM
10-3.7 nii;-)

Percyflyer
06-15-2009, 07:58 PM
Good, just bought 2 on the way home.

Percyflyer
06-15-2009, 08:00 PM
gotcha, cool!

BEAR-AvHistory
06-15-2009, 10:01 PM
What servos are you guys using on the Dr.1? Anyone going with the HTX-900?

Percyflyer
06-16-2009, 02:52 AM
I use the Hextronics 5gram and 9gram on about everything now. I have very good luck with them.

steve p

BTW, you can see most of my electrics fly at www.hoosierdawnpatrol.com (http://www.hoosierdawnpatrol.com) go to the video page.

BEAR-AvHistory
06-16-2009, 03:26 AM
I am also using 500/900 units in some planes & have a number of 900's available to use.

Was interested to know if the 900's fit in the wings of the Dr.1 & SPAD

Percyflyer
06-16-2009, 10:14 AM
No, the 500's are a tight fit. I tried to use tape in the Spad to attach the servos to the plate, but it was too thick. Had to use the wood mounts, with the servos as tight to the plate as you can get, and then had to grind the uprights down. There is not much room, a thin servo would fit a lot better.

BEAR-AvHistory
06-16-2009, 10:53 AM
No, the 500's are a tight fit. I tried to use tape in the Spad to attach the servos to the plate, but it was too thick. Had to use the wood mounts, with the servos as tight to the plate as you can get, and then had to grind the uprights down. There is not much room, a thin servo would fit a lot better.

Thanks for the info on the 900's. Am looking at the Hobby City VS-12M 1.5KG Ultra Thin Servo for the wings. $8 & change a piece.

Started to put the SPAD together today & noticed that the battery tray will hold 1800 & 2200 LIPO's of which I have quite a few. Will these be OK in the plane?

SUPERSPORT
06-22-2009, 09:49 PM
I would use the 2830-10 motor. It will handle the 10" prop better. I have both of these planes. Your combo should fly both. You will have to make a new motor mount as both are mounted reversed. I used the Rimfire in the DR1 and a Turnigy in the Spad.

That's the one I have in my SE5. I'm running a 10X4.7 APC prop. Real happy with it and the price. I bought everything from Heads Up RC. Motor, ESC, Servos, Motor Mounts, Props, etc.

HobbyCity, HobbyKing, or whatever their name is this week, prices but right here in the USA. Marengo, WI. Ordered a couple times and had my stuff in a couple days, can't beat this guy.

BEAR-AvHistory
06-22-2009, 10:14 PM
I went with Jeff's suggestion & bought 2X2830-09 for the SPAD & Dr.I & a 2836-11 for the Albatross.

Had to do some slight Dremel grinding to fit the 2830-09 & 9G servos into the SPAD. Am using the Hobby City VS-12M 1.5KG Ultra Thin servo in the wings. Might also retro fit them into the Albatross wings in place of the HXT-500's that are there now & tight against the skin.

BTW: On the SPAD anyone using an 1800 or 2200mah battery? Smallest ones I have right now are 1800's.

Used a 2200 to set up the Heads Up 32A ESC & both will fit the SPAD's battery tray

SUPERSPORT
06-22-2009, 11:04 PM
I went with Jeff's suggestion & bought 2X2830-09 for the SPAD & Dr.I & a 2836-11 for the Albatross.

Had to do some slight Dremel grinding to fit the 2830-09 & 9G servos into the SPAD. Am using the Hobby City VS-12M 1.5KG Ultra Thin servo in the wings. Might also retro fit them into the Albatross wings in place of the HXT-500's that are there now & tight against the skin.

BTW: On the SPAD anyone using an 1800 or 2200mah battery? Smallest ones I have right now are 1800's.

Used a 2200 to set up the Heads Up 32A ESC & both will fit the SPAD's battery tray


This is why I asked about the battery tray several months ago. I got 2 different answers.

I have an SE5. I wasn't going to buy new little batteries. I have 1-1800 and 6-2200s for my Parkzone T-28 and F4U.

My tray is on the bottom. Turn the plane upside down and there's a little hatch. I cut a hole in the floor towards the firewall. I put the battery in at an angle. I drop in the battery so one end in in the top of the nose and the other is at the back/bottom at the hole. I put foam on the edge of the hole and in the nose and velcro over the top to hold it. Works great and the CG is perfect.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3366/3651311541_125cbcf4bf_o.jpg

As for the motor I bought some 1/8" plywood and cut out my own mount. I did a triangle and drilled holes to mount in the factory location.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2472/3651311465_0332de0f4d_o.jpg

SUPERSPORT
06-22-2009, 11:11 PM
Also I went with his 32 amp ESC to be safe. I seen you were looking at the 20 amp.

BEAR-AvHistory
06-22-2009, 11:46 PM
The SPAD's tray is on top of the fuselage under the engine cover & gun pack. The 2200 battery just drops in with room to spare.

I made the motor mount out of some kind of synthetic material the same thickness as the original.

Will have to take a look at the DR.1 manual online to see where the battery is, like you I have a good collection of 1800 & 2200's for the PZ F4U & a Blade 400-3D. Also have a number of 3200 & 3300's for another pair of planes.


You get into this & its like eating peanuts, you can't have just one. :ws:

On the three planes ESCs' I went with 3X32Amp for commonality & a bit of extra overhead. Price spread made it a no brainier.

SUPERSPORT
06-23-2009, 12:14 AM
Great! So you didn't have to cut anything out.

The higher mAh will not hurt anything. It will just give you longer run time.

The only thing is to be sure your center of gravity is good. You will also be adding weight but who cares. I fly about 15 minutes each to be safe on my newer packs. I'll go like 25 on my older eBay el-cheapos that I don't care about.

I need to get over on Tower and put in an order for the Spad now that I know I don't need to mod it.

BEAR-AvHistory
06-23-2009, 12:24 AM
Great! So you didn't have to cut anything out.

Depending on the diameter of the motor, just some lite Dremel work at the three points where the motor mount screws go into the firewall.

I also had to open the slots in the main servo tray a small amount to allow the servo wires to clear. The plywood in those areas is pretty solid so I don't think it needs any further reinforcement (famous last words)

SUPERSPORT
07-03-2009, 05:25 AM
Any pics yet BEAR-AvHistory?

Percyflyer, what 10x6 blade exactly are you running on the 28-30B 14A 1050Kv?

Anyone... I'm putting in an order at HobbyKing for some batteries so I think I'll get everything else I need for my Spad when I get it.

I'm going to go with that 28-30B 14A Turnigy and some HXT900 servos.

What ESC does everyone get from HobbyKing?

Biplane Murphy
07-03-2009, 06:52 AM
Will have to take a look at the DR.1 manual online to see where the battery is, like you I have a good collection of 1800 & 2200's for the PZ F4U & a Blade 400-3D. Also have a number of 3200 & 3300's for another pair of planes.


The Dr1 battery slot is behind the motor, hatch is on the underside of the Fuselage, but the battery is in a vertical orientation (not like the horizontal orientation of the others)
I slipped a Thunder Power 3s 1320 in there no problem, but my 2100's don't look like they would fit. Perhaps one that is fatter versus longer.

BEAR-AvHistory
07-03-2009, 02:34 PM
The 2200's will not fit the Dr.1 without cutting so I ordered some FlightMax 1300's from Hobby City.

SPAD/Dr.1 have 2830-09 motors, 32amp ESC & TP10X5E props from Heads up. I also ordered thin VG-8.0 servos from hobby King for the ailerons on both the SPAD & DR.1.

The HXT-500's are a very tight fit in the Albatross & will not fit the other two planes.

scalercflyer
07-03-2009, 05:36 PM
Gee you would think someone would make a WWI German plane that wasn't red! :mad: No imagination! :eek::D;) Marty

Biplane Murphy
07-03-2009, 06:27 PM
Gee you would think someone would make a WWI German plane that wasn't red! :mad: No imagination! :eek::D;) Marty

Ah Hmmmmm.........Marty.......LOL

Fly Time
07-03-2009, 08:49 PM
Any pics yet BEAR-AvHistory?

Percyflyer, what 10x6 blade exactly are you running on the 28-30B 14A 1050Kv?

Anyone... I'm putting in an order at HobbyKing for some batteries so I think I'll get everything else I need for my Spad when I get it.

I'm going to go with that 28-30B 14A Turnigy and some HXT900 servos.

What ESC does everyone get from HobbyKing?

I've used HobbyKing's Super Simple ESC's on my last 3 builds. I've got a 25amp, 40amp and 55amp, all running flawlessly. Everything they sell is cheap to begin with, but the prices on these ESC's are ridiculously low! If you don't need much more, you can get an ESC and a servo or two sent via parcel post to the USA for something like $3 shipping. To get that rate the total order must be under $20, but when the ESC is under $10 that's pretty easy :rolleyes:

WWI Ace
07-03-2009, 10:55 PM
Hobbyking is my hero!!!!! Steve

SUPERSPORT
07-06-2009, 05:47 PM
I've used HobbyKing's Super Simple ESC's on my last 3 builds. I've got a 25amp, 40amp and 55amp, all running flawlessly. Everything they sell is cheap to begin with, but the prices on these ESC's are ridiculously low! If you don't need much more, you can get an ESC and a servo or two sent via parcel post to the USA for something like $3 shipping. To get that rate the total order must be under $20, but when the ESC is under $10 that's pretty easy :rolleyes:

I just looked at the SS 35 amp. The reviews are terrible.

Any other suggestions?

I have the 32 amp from Heads Up without any problems, guess I could order from him again. Just thought I'd give HK a try since I'm ordering batteries anyway.

degreen60
07-06-2009, 05:54 PM
Here is the ESC I have started using. I did receive a bad one and sent them an email. They told me to keep the bad one and sent me a replacement. They also have 20 amp and 40 amp ESC. Shipping is free. Good ESCs for under $12. http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.11981

Fly Time
07-06-2009, 06:03 PM
I just looked at the SS 35 amp. The reviews are terrible.

Any other suggestions?

I have the 32 amp from Heads Up without any problems, guess I could order from him again. Just thought I'd give HK a try since I'm ordering batteries anyway.
You are right, the SS 35 amp ESC looks like a piece of junk. The 25 amp version gets great reviews though, and that should be all you need to fly this plane (I use one of those in my Electrifly Seawind). If you really want something over 30 amps, you really can't go wrong with the PowerUp ESC that headsuprc sells. I have a couple of those as well and they are just great.

SUPERSPORT
07-06-2009, 06:14 PM
Yes, I've been happy with my HeadsUp purchases. Just trying to go on the even cheaper.

I just ordered the Spad and Sopwith so I have 2 planes to equipt and I have a new TREX 250 sitting on the workbench. My Futaba RXs are $100 each so I need 3 more of those.

Thought if I could get 2 for the price of one I'd save a few.

Looks like the one from DealXtreme needs plugs and may take awhile to ship?

Percyflyer
07-06-2009, 08:09 PM
For ESC's.
I use the Turnigy plush from Hobby King. Have had no issues with any, have about 10 working.

I use the APC 10x6 Slow Flyer prop

steve p

SUPERSPORT
07-06-2009, 08:13 PM
HK ran out of stock on the motors I was going to get. No time to wait.

Just put in $155 order at HeadsUp. I want to be in the air this weekend.

WWI Ace
07-06-2009, 11:09 PM
If you do ever decide to get an ESC from HK I can also tell you the Turnigys have worked great for me also!!! Steve

BEAR-AvHistory
07-07-2009, 01:25 AM
If you do ever decide to get an ESC from HK I can also tell you the Turnigys have worked great for me also!!! Steve

+1 :ws:

SUPERSPORT
07-15-2009, 09:39 PM
A few thoughts about this kit...

Off the bat my battery cover was broke. The front wood was cracked and the crack extended through the plastic. I put CA on the wood and it all lines up but you can see the crack on top. I'll give Tower a call but they'll probably send me to Great Planes. If they replace it great, if not I'll live with it.

I try to put the control horns in before I put the pieces together. The hole for the elevator was on the wrong side. Same as rudder. I didn't notice till it was too late. After the tail was together I had to dig it out and try to cut a hole in the correct side. Pain in the :censor:.

Between my brother and I we have 7 of these GP biplanes. We have at least 1 each of the 5. It's a known fact the screws in the struts are a pita. I drill out the struts before hand so the screws go straight through. All the holes for my strut mounts in the wing needed alot of work. Never had that problem before. After all that work to get them glued in turns out the hole for the strut screw was too small. I was stripping screws left and right. Not hard to do with these little things anyway. Now I can't drill the holes out because the mounts are already in the wing. Took forever to get them all on. Hope I never have to remove the wings.

Same goes for my servo hatches in the wing. Lucky I could drill those out.

Point is, you might want to check those mounts before you glue them in. Would be real easy to drill them all while they were on the little stick. Would have saved me hours.

Elevator and rudder pushrods are out of wack. The tubes exit at the wrong angle. When I connect the pushrods to the control horn they are bowed and bind. My rudder is real bad, it just about won't center up when I let off.

More proof the tubes are off is the support plate you glue in. Mine would be too high(really low) and into the wing to clear the rods. I had to drill out the holes and it's still too high. I clear the wing but the top part just touches the blocks you glue it too. One side took forever to get to stick. I should have ripped it out and drilled the holes even bigger so I could move it down more.

Now they say to glue the belly flairing to the bottom of wing. I went to radio shack and for $4 bought 2 packs of 3/16" rare earth magnets. I installed a set in the back and one in the front using the existing magnet from the sevro bay hatch.

I suggest installing landing gear struts before putting on wheels. I followed directions and installed wheels first. Once on plane the wheels were canted. I had to remove them to straighten angle on strut. Save your self some time here.

There were 2 fat pieces of shrink tube. Didn't say what they were for. I put one over the wing strut and ran my servo wires through it. Makes it a little neater.

I think the details are much better on this one that the older ones. Makes my SE5 look cheap. Adding the screw lock pushrod connectors was great over the old shrinkwrap/CA deal. What a joke. The landing gear looks much stronger/heavy duty, still don't care for the little straw. The addition of magnetic panels is over the top, just wish they did it to the belly cover. Painted pilot is nice also, saved some cash buying one or painting the supplied one.

BTW, I pulled my Rx from my SE5. I run a Futaba 6EX 2.4 and the Rxs are $100. I just bought one for a TREX 250 I just built. Spent too much money for not working. I'll have to wait a few before I buy another for the SE5. Maybe I'll put in one of my old FM systems in for now. I put in a 2830-10 motor, 10X6 GWS prop, 32 amp ESC, and 9g servos from Heads Up RC. Made my own motor mount. Had to do a little work for the motor and servos to fit but they all work. I have 2200 lipos I use in all my planes. I glued in the 4 little blocks they supplied for servo mounting to keep the battery centered. My CG is dead on.

This plane has gave me the most trouble putting together but it looks awsome. I love the exhaust, the camo, the wing shape, and how the top wing sets low(close to the plane). I just wish I could climb in there and fly it.:ws:

I love the view looking down the guns at the pilot.

I finished up at around 5:30 this morning. Was still to dark out and I was tired. Too windy to fly now, should have stayed awake.:sad: I took a few pictures and I'm all ready for this evening when the wind calms down.



http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2569/3723729703_1f0f1a73dd_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3502/3724841380_83f294f38d_o.jpg

dai phan
09-14-2009, 01:47 PM
Hi all,

I am putting together the Spad and so far I have observed these things:

1. The wrinkles are impossible to be removed in some areas with heat gun or iron. That's why I hate monokote stuff.

2. The pushrods put way too much torque on the control horns. I had to glue in the horns first then work on the pushrods. I am still thinking on how to approach on this one.

3. Many decals including roundels are applied crooked. Looks like someone was drunk when he/she put this together.

4. Two of the control horns are missing.

I do make over on my ARFs 90% of the time but since I like the color scheme, I will leave as is but I will put other markings to make mine different from the rest. DP

dbcisco
09-14-2009, 02:22 PM
That is sad. Esp. considering this costs more than their other WWI planes.

dai phan
09-15-2009, 03:07 PM
Hello all,

I almost pull all my hair out trying to get the wrinkles removed but to no avail. I wish GP would do away with the Monokote stuff as this thing gives very poor results (bubles, poor shrinkage) that are impossible to be removed. Since I already assembled the plane, recovering from head to toe is out of the question so I will do in sections with Ultracote then paint the plane with appropriate colors. On my sample, all the control surfaces are already CA in with the exception of the rudder. However, the job was so poor resulting in CA all over the place. I wish GP would let the builders do this themselves. For people who just want to put together and fly without paying attention to details, then this ARF will fit in nicely. However with scale purists, there are LOTS of work needed to bring out an acceptable model. I would pretty much prefer ARC type but I guess that will never become a reality. DP

sinker49
09-17-2009, 08:14 AM
Does anybody have any info/experience with the Smaller Electric SE-5 around $59 I just recently noticed it and I thought it very much like The Sig D-7 and The E-flite Sopwith Pup.I was wondering if you could recommend an economical and lightweight power and Speed control and battery system for park flying.

degreen60
09-17-2009, 01:25 PM
Does anybody have any info/experience with the Smaller Electric SE-5 around $59 I just recently noticed it and I thought it very much like The Sig D-7 and The E-flite Sopwith Pup.I was wondering if you could recommend an economical and lightweight power and Speed control and battery system for park flying.

I think you are talking about the E-flite SE5A. I do not have the SE5A but have the E-flite Jenny and Niueport. I had my Nieuport at a meet with another Wattflyer and he brought his Electricfly Sopwith Pup(which I believe is the Pup you referance). The Pup and the Nieuport seem to be about he same size. I have cropped his picture to the two planes. In my 2 E-flight planes I have an ax-2306n, cost about $6 plus shipping and a flying 30amp ESC, cost under $11 including shipping. I fly both planes on a 7x6 prop with a 900ma 2s battery. The planes will fly at about half throtle. Both planes will roll, loop, fly upsidedown with this setup.
I am putting together another E-flite Nieuport and will use this same setup. I am very happy with it.

AndyL
11-29-2009, 11:17 PM
Hi, This is my first post on Wattflyer. The Spad XIII was my favorite plane as a kid. I've been nice this year and (after dropping lots of hints to my wife) expect to find one under the xmas tree.

I'm putting together a hobby city order in anticipation.

Has anyone tried the turnigy wood props? They have a pretty good selection including a 10x6. I think it would look really cool.

It sounds like thin servos like the vg-8 are worthwhile for the wing, and I think I'll get the turnigy 28-30 1050 kv motor a few people have used.

- Andy

BEAR-AvHistory
11-30-2009, 02:51 AM
The VG-8's fit very well into the wing & works fine. I never tried one of thier wooden props I just use an electric MAS with a brown sharpie to color it.

AndyL
01-07-2010, 05:03 AM
Well I got my Spad for Christmas, and I have to say it's the best looking model airplane I've seen. The amount of work that goes into these planes for the price is amazing. Great job Electrifly!

I found a simple answer to using the 3 hole electrifly motor mount. The radius of the holes is the same as one of the 2 hole sets on most motors. Using the bottom hole and filing a 1 - 2 mm divot across from it allows a secure attachment. Here's a picture.

HC was sold out of thin servos so I used some HS-55s I had. There was plenty of room and I think HXT900s would also fit fine. I used hot glue to mount the servos directly to the hatch cover. No added depth and easy to remove if needed.

The little plywood strut mounts delaminate easily when being removed from their tree, and I would apply thin ca and let it dry first if I was to do it again.

Does anyone know if the red plastic engine cowl is particularly fragile? I'm thinking of painting the inside with gorilla glue. I've done it in the nose cone of a jet and it makes it pretty indestructible.

spad
01-07-2010, 01:30 PM
Quite clever mounting-what is that motor?

AndyL
01-07-2010, 05:40 PM
Hi Spad, The motor in the picture is a Towerpro 2406-21. I just used it to work out the mount while I wait for a Turnigy 28-30 1050 kv from hobbycity. The Towerpro size is 28-26, so it fits, but it's 1650 kv.

AndyL
02-17-2010, 06:45 PM
I finally maidened my SPAD yesterday afternoon. After a short bumpy take off roll on dirt it was airborn and pretty twitchy. I came within one mistake of planting it in the ground, but fortunately recovered and was able to get it trimmed. It's no plane for a beginner but it does look great in the air.

After flying around for a while I noticed a slight increase in motor noise just before the prop flew off! I used a collet-type adaptor and obviously didn't tighten it enough. ::o I can now attest that the plane has a nice dead-stick glide. I came in for an emergency landing with no damage except for the lost prop. All in all a successful maiden and I look forward to the next flight.

TM4197
02-17-2010, 08:18 PM
Nice looking plane Andy! Glad to hear you made it !! I am sure the heart rate was up there!

oeker
10-15-2010, 10:41 PM
Top wing roundels - white dots are off center on my Spad. It is same with the AndyL picture posted above.

Could have been applied with ailerons not yet installed, giving a false center position?

Or is it true scale? Watching the real circular "rainbow" on a cloud (inspired the British marking) the center is off. Have a fading memory of a British first edition roundel with an off center white spot? But this must have been early in the war.

If it is an error, it is easy to fix. Hope you can buy stamp size pieces of Monokote, and not a full length....?

degreen60
10-16-2010, 04:39 PM
Top wing roundels - white dots are off center on my Spad. It is same with the AndyL picture posted above.


Are the roundels off on the plane in the picture or do they just look off because of camera angle?

oeker
10-16-2010, 06:21 PM
Are the roundels off on the plane in the picture or do they just look off because of camera angle?

No doubt it is off. It looks the same on my Spad. Have now measured it. Blue is 27mm wide in front, and 40mm aft. (Incl. aileron part)

AndyL
11-06-2010, 03:04 AM
My white dots are off center. It's an unfortunately noticable flaw in an otherwise beautifully made plane. I've decided to ignore it.

It looks great in the air and I've been nailing my landings recently :p>

touche
11-26-2010, 03:40 PM
I ordered a Spad x111 today. Been reading the threads.. As some of you have been flying this plane for a year now is there anything you'd do different.
I have to order some motors/esc's/servos..Prefer a 1 shop stop and am thinking Headsup. Is the 2830-09..32 A esc and 10x5 E still the choice from them..what Lipo's have you been using latey..

scalercflyer
11-26-2010, 05:07 PM
I ordered a Spad x111 today. Been reading the threads.. As some of you have been flying this plane for a year now is there anything you'd do different.
I have to order some motors/esc's/servos..Prefer a 1 shop stop and am thinking Headsup. Is the 2830-09..32 A esc and 10x5 E still the choice from them..what Lipo's have you been using latey..
Touche you can order with confidence from Heads Up. I have bought MANY items from them with 0 problems. Help is easily given (and quickly too) just for the asking. If you look at the website you will see REAL testing data and recieve expert advice. His prices are reasonable and his shipping rates are good as well. I highy recommend them. BTW, I've had my eye on that plane for a while. Marty

bassfisher
12-01-2010, 07:21 PM
Im flying mine with a park 380. Great flying plane- she does have her habits though. Looking to get the SE5 to detail out also. The SPAD needs a hanger mate! Looking at either a HEADSUP 450 or the 400 Sport. The 380 does a good job on a APC 10X4 slowflyer prop and a 3S 2200. The SPAD is a great little plane to detail out - cant wait until next years scale funflys

touche
12-06-2010, 03:20 AM
Hi,
Well I finally got started. Ordered from Headsup and a nice parcel arrived a few days later. Very fast from Fla to Tx. Unfortunately the ESC was missing but a quick message and an ESC is on the way...I got the fuse and wings and small parts all matted down with Liquitex and will begin reinforcing the joints with glue while I wait for the postie to deliver.
A quick question. from the posts pictures it is hard to see but did you run the antenna wire thru the bottom as per the manual or use some other method/location for it. The manual shows a fair bit of wire flying behind..
Thanx

degreen60
12-06-2010, 05:38 PM
Hi,
A quick question. from the posts pictures it is hard to see but did you run the antenna wire thru the bottom as per the manual or use some other method/location for it. The manual shows a fair bit of wire flying behind..
Thanx

It is very easy to make an invisable antenna. Buy some #30(fine wire) magnet wire. You can get it a Radio Shack. Cut off most of the receiver antenna wire. Leave about 2 inches or more. Cut a piece of #30 wire same length as the antenna wire you cut off. Solder the #30 wire on the antenna wire still attached to the receiver. Now you can run the wire straight and any wire hanging out the back of the plane can not be see when in the air.

touche
12-06-2010, 07:18 PM
Thanks for the tip. I am curious as to whether the main amount of wire could be run thru the inside of the fuse before it exits out the back end instead of hanging off the bottom underside of the fuse.
Too bad it couldn't be used as strut guy wires...LOL
Thanks again

Ryan Flyer
12-08-2010, 12:50 AM
I just did the Nieuport 11 and I ran the wire through the fuse and out near the tail skid
Pat

oeker
12-09-2010, 10:21 PM
I installed:


TR 28-30B 14A 1050Kv Brushless Outrunner
TURNIGY Plush 18amp Speed Controller
10x4.7 slow fly propeller

This motor is longer than the Rimfire, with a different engine mount. I had to do some modifications to install motor. Remove anchor nuts. Modify (drill new holes) motor mount for 4 screws. Install motor mount behind firewall with 3 spacers. Use stiff plastic tube to make spacers. You can adjust motor aligment by tighten or loosen nuts - (compress the spacers). Not much space to work with behind firewall. You must be patient and use small tools - and plan head for wire routing.


Not yet maiden due to bad weather - but the high speed taxi tests works fine. No doubt it will take off with less than 1/2 throttle. With a 1300 battery it hits the CG spot on.

A really easy fix for off center white roundel:
Peel off the old white dot with a sharp knife. This is very easy. Find a label or similar sticker with white sections. (I found a text label with a large white trim in my workshop). Cut a new circle and install.

I have rubbed down the glossy surface, and done some weathering. Some wear and tear. Oil spill and exhaust dirt. Mud thrown up by the wheels.

A great looking war beaten Spad!
:tc:

touche
12-10-2010, 03:01 AM
Hi Oeker,
Got any pics of your engine mods and the plane. Always nice to see. Hope you have a successful first flight.

oeker
12-10-2010, 05:58 PM
See what I can do with a decent macro camera.

Do you have to create your own site, and then link pics with URL? Or just upload pics to Wattflyer?
:rolleyes:

touche
12-11-2010, 03:01 AM
That I don't know. Perhaps someone will chime in as to loading photos.

Ryan Flyer
12-11-2010, 01:57 PM
See what I can do with a decent macro camera.

Do you have to create your own site, and then link pics with URL? Or just upload pics to Wattflyer?
:rolleyes:

Just upload the pics as Attachments when you are posting.
Pat