PDA

View Full Version : waterproofing


bawbeeseboy
06-22-2008, 09:58 PM
Hi. Does castle recomend any specific way to waterproof your speed controls ? Or do you make a waterproof speed control for us float freaks. Thanks

buzkil
06-23-2008, 04:48 AM
I think if you e-mail someone at castle, they do water proofing for a fee. Or you can do like some guys do and dip it in corrosion-X, let it drip dry and your good to go.

Larry3215
06-23-2008, 07:37 AM
CorosionX works great.

If you send it in, Castle will dip your controller in a conformal sealer. I was thinking it costs $5.00 or so, but Im not sure.

bawbeeseboy
06-23-2008, 01:30 PM
Are there different types of corrosion x . I smoked 2 speed controllers over the weekend both dipped and let air dried in the stuff. Maybe I should go back to land based flying

Joe Ford
06-23-2008, 02:58 PM
Which controllers?

FlyWheel
06-23-2008, 05:17 PM
What about dipping it in wax? Or PlastiCote?

Larry3215
06-23-2008, 06:22 PM
Im guessing you didnt throttle down soon enough or you tried to run the motor while the prop was in the water.

If you try to run the motor while the thing is under water it will smoke the controller even if it is water proofed.

When the prop is in the water, the motor will draw HUGE HUGE currents.

Some motors that have close clearances inside and/or mostly closed housing or cases will fill up with water and it will take a while to drain out. That water inside the motor also causes the loades to go WAAAAAAAY up and can cause you to burn something up when you try to re-start.

The first rule of electrics is - if the motor DOES NOT START INSTANTLY - back off the throttle and find out why.

When ever the throttle is on and the motor is NOT TURNING the system will be pulling huge currents - waaaaay beyond spec and waaaaay beyond normal full throttle currents.

I have crashed in the water hundreds of times since I started using CorrosionX and never had a controller go bad - with one exception.

That ONE time was when I tried to "motor boat" by running the prop in the water. Smoked the controller in under 3 seconds.

These days, if my Capricorn flips over in the water, I wait for the wind to blow it right side up again - wait a minute or so for things to drain - then start up and fly off again.

Larry3215
06-23-2008, 06:27 PM
One other point - its critical to get the CorrosionX to make contact with the entire circuit board inside the heat shrink.

I take extra time to be sure all the air is out of the shrink and that the CorrosionX has gotten to every square mm on the boards inside the shrink covering. Any portions of the boards that dont get coated are not protected.

By the way there are several variations on CorrosionX. The Marine is my first choice but as far as I know the Avaition type is the same.

You DO NOT want the heavy duty version. Its way to thick to penetrate inside small spaces.

bawbeeseboy
06-23-2008, 07:53 PM
I took the shrink tube off before submerging the controller in corrosion x. put new shrink wrap on after a day or so of " drying ". the plane was throttled back before hitting the water each time. would it be a wise or foolish idea to cover the controller in liquid electrical tape ?

Larry3215
06-24-2008, 01:20 AM
Odd that it isnt working for you.

Joe asked which controllers you were using - mabe that makes a difference?

Id get in touch with Joe and go from there.

I dont think the liquid electrical tape is all that water proof but I have no first hand experience.

If the CorrosionX isnt working Id go with Castles conformal coating. Thats been used in boats for years and years - or go with what ever Joe recomends.

Larry3215
06-24-2008, 01:22 AM
What about dipping it in wax? Or PlastiCote?

Wax wold most likely just melt out and its not vey water proof. It can actually hold a lot of moisture.

Plasticoat I have no experience with.

Yota
04-03-2009, 12:10 AM
Why not just epoxy coat your stuff with 3mDP270 I used to coat my RX's in my boats with the stuff and never had water issues after doing so-
its kinda high for epoxy but it goes a long way best place to get it is offshore
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=ose-dp270
here is how i used to do my RX's (hated the plastic boxes) 135JR rx
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s217/toyotatruckin_photos/100_1678.jpg
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s217/toyotatruckin_photos/100_1679.jpg
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s217/toyotatruckin_photos/100_1680.jpg
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s217/toyotatruckin_photos/100_1681.jpg
http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s217/toyotatruckin_photos/100_1682.jpg

kyleservicetech
04-04-2009, 05:02 PM
What ever you do, do NOT use any off the shelf type sealer from your local hardware store. :( Some of these sealants give off a smell that indicates it contains a type of acid that will destroy your ESC in a year or so. :mad:

Years ago, we found this out where I worked (before retiring) that one of our vendors sealed a magnetic indicator with some sort of non-electronic compatible sealant. It cost us some $200,000 on a nation wide recall. Yes, our vendor got sued by our company!(We won :D)

Bottom line, if the sealant does not indicate on its container that it is compatible with electronics, it probably is not.

Yota
04-04-2009, 09:33 PM
Glad you added that!!

Larry3215
04-04-2009, 11:44 PM
Good point - silicone sealants in particular can be very nasty if used near electronic boards.