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Fangar
06-25-2008, 09:01 PM
Fangar enters with hat in hand...
:D

So I have been flying planes for years and have had a few heli's. Quite frankly, I consider myself to be a novice when determining what heli's come with and what are needed to complete them. I have been flying my indoor Hirobo XRB for years now and eventually moved into a Blade CP pro with a brushless setup. I am fairly comfortable flying the collective pitch heli's and am now looking to graduate to a T-REX 450 series.

Now for the questions...

Can someone tell me what the differences between the SA, SE, ABC, EFG, HIJ and all of the other strange models? I was looking at this one:

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=AGNH1100C

I am not looking to rock the 3D world. Some simple inverted flight, and consistent flights (Unlike my CP pro which seemed to need dialing in with each new pack). I already have some TP 3s 2100 packs I think might work. Also, for the Gyro, could I get away with robbing the G90 from my CP Pro for the time being until I wanted to upgrade, if necessary? Does the above version have servos? I have a receiver ready for it for my Futaba 7C.

Thanks in advance,

Fangar

Heli Jim
06-26-2008, 12:05 AM
Hey, James.........

It looks like you would have to provide servos, receiver, gyro, and battery.
Since you have the batteries, (2100 3S should probably work--what C rating are they?)
and the receiver, you would probably only need the servos and the gyro would probably
work but I see that most of the guys are using something a little better than the G90

It looks like a pretty good deal. I don't really know all the different models of the TREX
but I'm sure somebody will chime in with that info for you.

Fangar
06-26-2008, 12:32 AM
Hey, James.........

It looks like you would have to provide servos, receiver, gyro, and battery.
Since you have the batteries, (2100 3S should probably work--what C rating are they?)
and the receiver, you would probably only need the servos and the gyro would probably
work but I see that most of the guys are using something a little better than the G90

It looks like a pretty good deal. I don't really know all the different models of the TREX
but I'm sure somebody will chime in with that info for you.

Jim,

Thanks for the reply. The Packs I have are the Thunder Power 2100's (15C continuous, 24C Burst). It looks like for the Sport / 3D setup, they are the packs that they recommend, so hopefully I am good there. As for the servos, I forgot to mention those. I have the e-flites from my CP Pro as well, but think I might likely need at least one better for the tail. I would not mind getting a better gyro either.

How do you like the 400? Nice looking heli.

Fangar

Heli Jim
06-26-2008, 02:22 AM
I love the 400

I did replace the servos with JR 285's and a 3400G for the tail.....otherwise
it's stock. I don't think you would be happy using the Eflite servos in your
TREX.....I don't think that they would be up to the job.

I think at some time, I'll be looking for either a TREX 550 or a 600
but I gotta save up for that...........

photors
06-30-2008, 05:37 AM
I have a 450SA arf ready to go. All you need is a 28 crystal for you transmitter. interested? let's talk.
photors@verizon.net

buzkil
06-30-2008, 11:07 AM
From what I know about the Trex 450, the older version had a bell/hiller design for the collective pitch where as one servo controlled the pitch. The newer version of the 450 uses three servos mixed together to control pitch. The SA or standard edition, has standard plastik parts, the SE or special edition, has iodized blue alluminum parts. Most people that start out with an SA usually upgrade to the SE parts. From there on I haven't keep up with the info of them besides of the jump to the 600. This is all I know, sorry!

Fangar
06-30-2008, 03:45 PM
From what I know about the Trex 450, the older version had a bell/hiller design for the collective pitch where as one servo controlled the pitch. The newer version of the 450 uses three servos mixed together to control pitch. The SA or standard edition, has standard plastik parts, the SE or special edition, has iodized blue alluminum parts. Most people that start out with an SA usually upgrade to the SE parts. From there on I haven't keep up with the info of them besides of the jump to the 600. This is all I know, sorry!

That is helpful, and what I felt was the case with the aluminum parts. Might be the way to go from the start. I would imagine though that the new versions would be the same within the 450A and 450SE.

Fangar

Fangar
06-30-2008, 03:46 PM
I have a 450SA arf ready to go. All you need is a 28 crystal for you transmitter. interested? let's talk.
photors@verizon.net

Thanks for the offer, but I will likely pick up a new one when the time comes. Also, you likely wouldn't be able to just slap a new Crystal in your TX without re-calibration. The better result would be to pick up a new Crystal for the RX.

Cheers,

Fangar

MaxAdventure
07-02-2008, 02:44 PM
here's my opinion, if you're interested:

the 450 class is a big place, some feel it's as big and 'pro' as an RC heli needs to be, others feel it's as small and inexpensive a 'pro' RC heli needs to be. I say that because of the web chatter and amazing market in this class. I love the 325mm size 450motor class because it's big enough to handle most outdoor conditions, handle a range of motors, and is easy to find parts. I like them because they fly 'big' with little investment yet fly in small areas without disturbing locals, and travel well.

I started there to put this in perspective; don't settle on a trex 450 SA/SE until you glance about at that market. There are better helis, there are cheaper helis. I don't think , however there are any more common. I personally just made the decision to move from an arcX400 (MX400 with upgrades) to a trex clone, the copterX xc450 SA. I would have prefered a Beam E4, but decided to go cheap so I wouldn't feel too intimidated to really fly it, practice new things, etc. My experiances with smaller heli's says they just can't keep up with a 450, but I think a 450 can keep up with my 600 size e conversion (with the right equipment)

now you know my background, here's what I would recommend:

to go with eCCPM mixing is the favored way, to keep it a little lighter, and a little more responsive(assuming some slop in the mechanical mixing). Most new heli's are this way. for the trex it basicly boils down to carbon frame with aluminum head/tail with the SE V2 or some composite and alum frame on the SA. My clone is alum tail/head and alum frame.

for servos, you're really getting a lot more loads on the swash, especially using eCCPM, so I don't know that your current servos are up to it(not sure the rating) the most common are the hitec 65's. I'm running the 56, but I think they are just barely keeping up. Hitec are great for the money.

gyros, I'm still low on the learning curve. So far my esky is not so good, it goes wonkey all the time and often can't keep up. My telebee seems good, but I've only flown it a bit, my GWS pg01 was good, but not HH. retired the heli it was on although I'm going to try it out on my 450 size. I just went with known good for my bigger machines and chose gy401s. I'm really interested in the hitec, logitec or JR setups for my next gyro purchase. I REALLY appreciate a good gyro, now that I"ve tried a 401 over the cheaper stuff I've had.

hope that helps at least some. and no, I'm not a hot 3d pilot, just intermediate starting to learn some more advanced stuff.

Figure.N9ne
07-02-2008, 03:00 PM
i recommend the aluminum head over the plastic head based on ruggedness. i've crashed my sev2 more than i can remember and have never broken any head parts. the plastic head parts would have broken many times over, especially from inverted crashes into asphalt.

servos i use hs65mg's on the cyclic and a 3400g on the tail. i really recommend metal gear servo's because the hb's or ds285's will strip easily in most crashes and removing servo's is a pain.

if you really want to enjoy the heli DONT skimp on the gyro, its probably the most important part in the whole setup. if you dont want to spend too much, then try to find a used futaba 401, you wont regret it.

i try to use 20c minimum batteries, but mostly 25c. my one tp 2100 18c pack comes down VERY hot.

Fangar
07-02-2008, 04:46 PM
Thank you guys so much for taking the time to respond. MaxAdventure, I think that I am along the same lines as you as far as wanting a nice 3D heli, but I am not a major 3D pilot. I agree with your recommendations on the Servos and now think that mine would be better suited in one of my other builds.

Yaniel. I will look into the gyro you recommended. I will likely go with a nice one in time and am leaning towards the aluminum head SE version anyway. I no I changed some of the parts on my CP prop to aluminum and really liked the advantages. As for the battery, you can never have too many packs.

I will likely get into the 400, but it won't be for another 6 months or so. The landscaping costs on the new house have taken priority for now!

Thanks again for all of the advice.

Cheers,

Fangar