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n001pa
01-12-2006, 10:06 AM
I finally broke down and ordered a Multiplex Twin Star II today. This will be my first multi. I have read all the reviews and watched a bunch of videos of it and decided it will be a good first multi.

Anyone have any setup suggestions? I plan on keeping the stock 400s for now just because I can't afford to buy a couple brushlesses and ESCs but I'm open to suggestions on almost everything else.

I know there is info over on rcgroups but I thought maybe we can post our setups here so others won't have to look over there in the furture.

elecairfan
01-12-2006, 02:27 PM
Now that's one bird I;ve got to order, talk about $ for fun ratio!
My recently demised T.S.1 had standard 400.s/Gunther's and only drew
16.5A. static, still a nice steady stooger at only 33oz.
My Mk.II would probably use a pair of typhoon 15 BL. and wallet
permitting. 3 blade Ramoser Varioprops.(8 in. I think)

How about profiling a keel, adding sponsons and doing a Canadair
paint job?

Please keep us posted, Pete

Jeremy Z
01-12-2006, 06:11 PM
It's a great plane. For a cheap & easy motor upgrade, get speed 480s. They have the same diameter & mounting holes, but are a smidge longer. You can use the same controller, wiring, etc. and it should only run you about $20 + shipping.

I use 8 cell, 3600 mAh sub-Cs from www.cheapbatterypacks.com (http://www.cheapbatterypacks.com) in a single row configuration.


Cut out a little more of the rearward part of the battery bay to allow you to move the pack rearwards a bit to get COG right without adding weight. It is already plenty heavy. Details can be found at http://plawner.net/4/twinstar2/twinstar2r.html
If at all possible, buy decent prop adapters instead of glueing on the props with the spinners to hold them in place. They will vibrate loose on you. This is a $10 upgrade.
Install the EZ connector to the rudder on the bottom side of the control horn, not the top, as the instructions say. If you put it on the top, there will be a LOT of friction because you're having to bend the pushrod too much coming out of the "snake". You'll have to either drill a tiny hold in the horizontal stabilizer or cut off the allen wrench a bit to get to the allen set screw to tighten it onto the pushrod. You'll see what I mean when you get there.
Give yourself plenty of room to gain speed before trying to climb. The plane is fast, (49 mph, level) but it doesn't accelerate too quickly. It flies scale. Once it is up & moving, it is very graceful. If you haven't gotten the knack yet, this plane will teach you rudder/aileron coordination. Using a LiPo pack would help lighten it up a bit and make it climb better, but that is expensive on a plane of this size. Jurgen has had good luck with a Kokam 2S 3200 mAh pack, but I hesitate to even look up the price on it.
Use velcro in addition to the latches to hold the canopy on. The latches seem really nice, but they don't hold as strongly as you'd think when you're landing.
Use the end hole in the servo arm, and the second-to-end hold in the control arm, and dial the throws back with your computer radio, if you have one. If you don't, use the end hole in the servo arm and the end hole in the control arms to start with.
In the link I gave you before, Patrick reminds you to be sure to lock that allen screw with CA before proceeding. Don't do this. Use either medium strength Loctite or hot glue. If you use CA, then change your mind, you're up the creek without a paddle.
When building the plane and glueing the Elapor parts to gether, if it is a tight fit, just fit the parts together and use thin CA. If you put the thicker CA in, then attempt to get it all right before it grabs, you'll screw up the tail.
Use Vaseline in the ends of the pushrod "snakes" and on all threads of nuts and bolts to keep CA from getting in them. You'll thank me, as it is bloody hard to keep it out of all the places where it shouldn't be.
When you're glueing the "snakes" into the fuselage, use thin CA and coat a small flathead screwdriver in Vaseline to hold them in their grooves while they dry. Otherwise, you'll surely glue your finger in there. When the thin CA has seeped in and dried, put a little more thick CA on top to stiffen it up a bit.
Experiement with the proper length of the snakes for the rudder pushrod. The lengths they give you in the manual are too long, and interfere with the servo action. Don't glue it in until you're sure you've got enough room. In this case, it is better to cut them a little short. (you'll see what I mean)
If you have a five or six channel radio, set it up for flaperons instead of ailerons, and you'll have the option of free flaps. (You might want to mix in a little up elevator, as it tends to dive a bit when you give 'er full flaps.)
Allow plenty of room for final approach. The combination of the fast flying speed and good gliding characteristics means this bird takes a bit of room to land.
The TSII is about the best snow plane I can think of. It will rise off snow, and skis forever when it's landing. Quite cool.
Put packing tape on the bottom of the fuselage to protect it on belly landings, especially if you're going to land it on other than snow or grass.
While you're waiting for it to arrive, look at the videos of this plane at http://plawner.net/video/videos.html. The one called "Dog Fight" is highly recommended. ;) Here's the direct link: http://plawner.org/video/1636Dogfight.wmv
Don't try tight loops, you crack the wing spar covers, as the wings are kind of flexy.
Don't try to fly this in more than 5-7 mph winds. It doesn't have the muscle to fight the wind. The wind just grabs those great old wings and has its way with the poor bird. I'm going to go brushless at some point and see if that helps, as I hate having this plane grounded.
If you have any questions, drop me a line: nakedsv@yahoo.com
Enjoy!

Jeremy

Jeremy Z
01-12-2006, 06:11 PM
P.S. - On a calm day, I get 23 minute flights on the 3600 mAh NiMH pack.

n001pa
01-12-2006, 07:58 PM
How about profiling a keel, adding sponsons and doing a Canadair
paint job?

You mean somethin like this? http://www.plawner.net/4/twinstar2/dieter/dieter.html :D

Thanks for the info Jeremy. I was planning on checking with the LHS this weekend to see how much a LiPo will cost for it.

Did you paint yours? I was wondering because I know others are painting thiers and wasn't sure what kind of paint to use on elapor.

Thanks,
Carl

n001pa
01-12-2006, 08:01 PM
I love the dogfight video.:D My dogs a bird dog and does the same thing. It can make it kind of hard to land sometimes.:D

Jeremy Z
01-13-2006, 04:54 AM
Carl: No, I didn't paint mine. I sanded it and put the stickers on. They don't stick very well; I had to tack the corners of them down with tiny drops of CA.

If I had it to do again, I'd throw the stickers out (or give them to someone here) and paint it. In the photo gallery, I really like the one with the red wingtips, nose, and vertical stabilizer: (note that he's using some sort of modded motor & APC props, and not the crappy stock ones.)
http://plawner.net/4/twinstar2/gallery/max/2.jpg



It doesn't look to hard to do, unlike LaMuse's one:
http://plawner.net/4/twinstar2/gallery/lamuse/images/Twinstar2_Maidenflight0007.jpg

http://plawner.net/4/twinstar2/gallery/lamuse/images/Twinstar2_Maidenflight0009.jpg

n001pa
01-13-2006, 09:48 AM
Does anybody know if enamel model paint like testors will work on elapor? I have an idea in my head of painting it to match the color schemes on my virtual airline for flight sim 04 but I'm not sure what paint will work with it.

Jeremy Z
01-13-2006, 11:49 PM
Carl, when you get the plane, you'll see that there are a couple pieces of foam you have to cut off of the motor nacelles. Use those to test whether the paint will work. Enamel can be pretty corrosive to foam, but I don't know about Elapor. If the Elapor dissolves, then you'll know!

BTW: 'stopped' is misspelled in your signature.

Jeremy

n001pa
01-14-2006, 06:34 AM
I am hoping the plane will arrive tomorrow.

Stoped :D oops!

RonJ
01-14-2006, 01:21 PM
Hey Guys,

Elapor paints very nicely with the water based acrylic paints found at Wal-Mart (craft dept.). Some are only 44 cents a bottle. Have used these on my Easy Star and Easy Glider straight from the bottle. Made a little dish by cutting the bottom off a pop can. I use the concave side, not the inside of the can, squirt in a little paint and have at it. Had best luck with a flat, fan shaped brush. Where two colors meet I run a black line with a sharpie. No masking tape.
The paint itself is pretty durable but if you want you can give it a shot of water based polyurethane, also at Wally-World but in the hardware dept.

Neat colors. I like the day-glow stuff on my wing tips. If you use an air brush, cut the paint 50% with water or alcohol.

RonJ

CorsairJock
01-14-2006, 02:24 PM
I've got a TS1, which I've had for about as long as they have been avaialable (about 6 ~8 years?).

I replaced motors with spd 400 8.4 volt motors, so they could better handle the 8 cell SCR/ NiCad packs I used. I also installed 2 speed controllers, so that I can control the motors independently when desired. I have my programming setup so that with a 3 pos. switch in:

1)Center pos: motors run the same.

2)Up pos: motors run the same, except that rudder is coupled so that rt rudder reduces speed on rt wing. Same for left rudder/ left engine.

3)Down pos: motors are controlled by throttle AND a rotary knob. Rotating knob from center decreases speed on the motor on that side.

Result is that I can experiment with engine out flying (VERY enlightening), and perform Bob Hoover like acrobatics (hence, the finish/ scheme).
Like ALL TS1s, it is gray foam, but I covered it with white packing tape for added strength and better looks.
This plane has been an absolute BLAST!. It can fly very slow and stable, but can also be very acrobatic, maintain inverted flight, etc.
I plan on getting the TS2 someday: a very good, yet inexpensive airplane made even better.

n001pa
01-14-2006, 06:59 PM
I've got a TS1, which I've had for about as long as they have been avaialable (about 6 ~8 years?).

I replaced motors with spd 400 8.4 volt motors, so they could better handle the 8 cell SCR/ NiCad packs I used. I also installed 2 speed controllers, so that I can control the motors independently when desired. I have my programming setup so that with a 3 pos. switch in:

1)Center pos: motors run the same.

2)Up pos: motors run the same, excepet that rudder is coupled so that rt rudder reduces speed on rt wing. Same for left rudder/ left engine.

3)Down pos: motors are controlled by throttle AND knob. rotating knob from center decreases speed on the motor on that side.

Result is that I can experiment with engine out flying (VERY enlightening), and perform Bob Hoover like acrobatics (hence, the finish/ scheme).
Like ALL TS1s, it is gray foam, but I covered it with white packing tape for added strength and better looks.
This plane has been an absolute BLAST!. It can fly very slow and stable, but can also be very acrobatic, maintain inverted flight, etc.
I plan on getting the TS2 someday: a very good, yet inexpensive airplane made even better.

That's a good looking bird you have there. Interesting idea with the throttle control. I might have to try that in the future. How did you do it? I'm sure it's simple but I can't picture how everything wires up with 2 ESCs.

CorsairJock
01-14-2006, 07:07 PM
That's a good looking bird you have there. Interesting idea with the throttle control. I might have to try that in the future. How did you do it? I'm sure it's simple but I can't picture how everything wires up with 2 ESCs.

In a nutshell: you must disable the BEC from one of the controllers. The rest is programming the Tx.

n001pa
01-14-2006, 07:23 PM
I assume you plug the controllers into two seperate channels then you program your radio to use those channels with the throttle stick. What radio are you using? I am still learning the wonders of programable radios so sorry if I'm asking a simple question.

CorsairJock
01-15-2006, 04:56 AM
That is correct. I plug one of the ESCs into channel 6, then use mixes to perform desired function. Originally, I used a Futaba 8C, but have upgraded to the 9C.

Jim12
01-17-2006, 05:13 AM
I bit a little more than I could chew with my paint scheme but used Krylon Fusion spray paint from Wal-Mart. Did detail work with some Tamiya acrylics. The foam "bumps" even after sanding resulted in some bleed under the blue masking tape I was using resulting in some brush touch-ups. Paint seems to stick pretty well. Didn't cover with with clear minwax as some have suggested. As with other handlaunch Multiplex models, a strip of clear tape along the bottom is a must. I'm flying everything stock and find a lot of my time is at half throttle or so. It just wants to fly!

Jeremy Z
01-17-2006, 05:46 PM
Did anyone see the article in the latest FlyRC where the dude built the Messerschmidt BF-110C, and since it would've been a dog to install rudders, he coupled the motor controls to the rudder stick? Sharp idea, but it bet it was not easy to program...

As of this posting, it's not on FlyRC's website yet.

CorsairJock, is that how yours is set up, or are yours just on/off?

Jeremy

CorsairJock
01-17-2006, 06:12 PM
CorsairJock, is that how yours is set up, or are yours just on/off?
Jeremy

Perhaps my post was not clear enough:

I use a 3 position switch.

1)With the switch in the UP position, the throttles are mixed so that they are coupled to rudder input. When I apply right rudder, the right engine proportionally reduces power, left engine remains at throttle setting. In this position, I can perform some pretty snappy hammerheads and stall turns

2)With switch in center position, both engines run same speed, based solely on throttle setting.

3)With switch in down position, a knob is used to 'balance' the motors. With the knob centered, both run at same speed (based on throttle setting). As I turn knob to left, it reduces power to left engine, until it stops. If I turn knob to right, right motor slows or stops. I use this position for flying on one engine. It WILL maintain altitude with one engine, if flown CAREFULLY.

One thing I learned about 'engine out' flying: if you get it into a spin, you must either chop power to the good engine OR resume power to the 'dead' engine. If you continue spin with one engine running, chances are you cannot pull out of it.

Elfwreck
01-18-2006, 05:38 PM
Hey now,
You guys are making me want another Twin Star:p I keep thinking it would be fun to set one up with a bomb bay or parachute port and flaps.
On the paint question; I have a Sonic Liner, elapor twin, I used rattle can enamals from Ace hardware. Worked just fine, no melting, no bleed over, no peeling. Now to go lay out a fire crew paint sceme for the comming Twin Star borate bomber...
RobII

n001pa
01-23-2006, 10:01 AM
I have a Thunder Power 2100mah 2 cell lipo herethat is rated for 21-25amps with 30 amp burst and 10-12c with 16c burst discharge. Do you guys think this battery will work?

jonnyjetprop
01-23-2006, 01:45 PM
Did anyone see the article in the latest FlyRC where the dude built the Messerschmidt BF-110C, and since it would've been a dog to install rudders, he coupled the motor controls to the rudder stick? Sharp idea, but it bet it was not easy to program...

As of this posting, it's not on FlyRC's website yet.

CorsairJock, is that how yours is set up, or are yours just on/off?

Jeremy

Tom Hunt described the programming in one of the side articles.

John

Jeremy Z
01-23-2006, 05:31 PM
I have a Thunder Power 2100mah 2 cell lipo herethat is rated for 21-25amps with 30 amp burst and 10-12c with 16c burst discharge. Do you guys think this battery will work?

It will work, but you will have to do some tricks to make it balance. Maybe add some weight to the nose. (there's plenty of room to do this)

But if you add too much weight, you'll need more current to fly, and the pack will not last as long as it should. For reference, I get 17-27 minutes on my 3600 mAh NiMH pack. You'll have lighter weight and won't need as much throttle, so I'd bet you'll get about 10-15 minutes.

Read what Patrick Plawner says about it at his site. He tried a battery similar to yours and had to add a stone from the field to the nose of his TSII to balance it.

OLD GUY
02-10-2006, 06:01 AM
I fly off a paved basket ball court in park behind my house .
I put trike gear on it because i hate hand launching .
Took off cross court (stock 400 motors & props). Eight cell 1000 nicads. Did a slow roll & one "push on prop" came off , too low to recover from resulting spin ,hit very HARD & was destroyed. Worst crash i ever had in 50 years of flying.
I was aware of prop problems with this kit & had roughed up prop shafts & used epoxy when installing "push on props"
So i had one 30 sec. flight before prop flew off.
BEWARE!!
OLD GUY

Jeremy Z
02-10-2006, 02:07 PM
OLD GUY,

I had something similar happen to my TwinStar 2, but I was lucky & caught it before the prop came off altogether.

I too, roughed up the prop shafts and used epoxy, as recommended by the manual.

About 15 minutes into a flight, I noticed that the bird made a horrible racket when I applied full throttle. I also noticed that it wasn't responding as well as it usually did to throttle inputs.

So I circled around and landed it, and noticed that the right prop was about 2/3 of the way off the shaft!!! Not good. I pulled it the rest of the way off, only to notice that the ring around the hole in the center of the prop was cracked. Whether from vibration or pushing it on too hard, I don't know. What I do know is that those Gunther props with hard rubber spinners that hold them on by friction are totally inadequate for use in tractor configuration.

I bought set screw type Graupner prop adapters for the motor shafts. (2.3 mm I think) The spinner threads on. The spinner has a hole going sideways through it, and you can put a tiny allen wrench through the hole to tighten it up.

I believe the stock Gunther props were 5 x 4.3 pitch, after you convert it to SAE units.

I replaced the props with hard, black APC 5 x 5 props. I'm not all that happy with the climb performance now, so I might go to 6x3 props. Then again, I might just wait until I go brushless on it. Inexpensive brushless motors and controllers should move it from a good plane to a great plane. (Better climb, better duration, less noise) I will probably go for slightly less pitch speed but a lot more thrust, as mine is a heavy bird with the 8 cell NiMH packs. (and I have $95 invested in them already)

MarkFitzgerald
02-14-2006, 07:47 AM
Here's a picture of my TSII. I upgraded it w/ the brushless motors, speed controls & props that the German Multiplex site recommended:

Tuningmöglichkeit: (Tuning possibilities)
je 2x erforderlich (2 each needed)
Brushless Motor BL-X 22-18 # 33 2302
mit Regler MULTIcont BL-27 # 7 2275 (Regler=controller)
APC Propeller 8x3,8" # 73 3145

I'm also using a TP 3200 7.4V lipo. Should be good.

I just got the props from Tower yesterday and haven't tried them yet. As soon as I can get them on and checked w/ my Wattmeter I will be ready for the maiden, if the weather cooperates.

Mark

Elfwreck
02-14-2006, 05:31 PM
Hey now,
O.k. so I'm getting the new Twin Star, fine. I may go with stock motors or I could use a matched pair of bL motors that I already have sitting around.
Do you folks think that a pair of E-flite 370 1360kv motors would work?
Or should I just stick with the can 400s?
The other option would be to buy another Kontronic fun400-23 and ESC, but there we're talkin' bux and I'd rather buy more batteries than yet another motor/ESC.
RobII

MarkFitzgerald
02-14-2006, 06:49 PM
The new props show up to 200 watts and 21-25 amps on the meter. I think it'll do just fine. It wanted to fly out of my hand. Pray for good weather and I'll be able to tell you how good it went!

Mark

ms08
02-17-2006, 07:38 PM
Picked up on this thread after surfing for information. I bought mine at Christmas and now completed in standard form. I haven't flown yet as I need a tutor so just waiting until the weather improves here in UK. Hopefully if I press the right button a picture of her should appear below.

Mike

http://photos.fotango.com/p/eba00333252f00000023.jpg

http://photos.fotango.com/p/eba00333252f00000024.jpg

Jeremy Z
02-17-2006, 11:00 PM
Waiting for the weather!!?? You English have it great! Where I live, it is always windy, and gets very very cold in the winter. The kind of cold you don't have in England. (you do have that confounded rain all the time though, eh? That will ground you, no questions asked)

Right now, I'm in southern Poland, where it can get cold and snowy, but there's no wind, so it doesn't seem cold to me at all.

Anyhow, you're going to love the TwinStar 2. A couple tips for the maiden:

1) Let her pick up speed before attempting to climb
2) Don't try to climb too steeply
3) Start your landing approach WAAAYYY out there, as she glides forEVER.
4) Coordinate your turns, or they are sloppy. The TS2 is big enough that you'll need to do this. I choose to do it manually, believing that it makes me a better pilot. Many people mix it with their radio.

Welcome to Wattflyer. Yours was a great first post!

P.S. - I'm thinking of getting one of those micro helis with the counter-rotating rotors to fly inside...

Jeremy Z
02-17-2006, 11:13 PM
Hey now,
O.k. so I'm getting the new Twin Star, fine. I may go with stock motors or I could use a matched pair of bL motors that I already have sitting around.
Do you folks think that a pair of E-flite 370 1360kv motors would work?
Or should I just stick with the can 400s?
The other option would be to buy another Kontronic fun400-23 and ESC, but there we're talkin' bux and I'd rather buy more batteries than yet another motor/ESC.
RobII

I'd go with the E-Flite 370s. Put the biggest, thrustiest props on that they will reasonably handle, and I think you'll be happy, even if you give up some top end speed.

You will also be much happier if you keep it light. Get high Ah LiPos in there. I've got a couple of 3700 mAh NiMH packs for it, and they make a 2+ lb. plane into a 3+ lb. plane. If you have to go Nickel, stick with 7 cells and go with the smallest cells that can handle the current draw and still provide a reasonable flight time. With that much less weight, it will feel even more thrusty. As mine stands, it takes quite a while to get speed and start the climb, but once I get it up to altitude, I can fly for up to 27 minutes on a calm day. (and this with the stock speed 400s) With small & efficient outrunners, this could be at least 5 minutes longer, or a faster flight with the same flight time. With light LiPos, it could easily exceed 35 minutes. (a 4200 mAh pack would still weigh MUCH less than my NiMH packs)

If I were you and had those motors handy, I'd probably get a 3S pack of about 3200 mAh capacity, being careful to take measurements to make sure it will fit. Also fit up the motors in the motor mount to make sure the cans clear. If not, a tiny bit of Dremel work will be needed.

The stock speed 400s vibrate like mad. They shook my capacitors right off, even with the velcro trick outlined in the manual. I soldered new ones on and they're held in place now with hot glue. Still makes the most horrible noise...

I'll be going brushless some time this summer.

If I ever get replacement wing joiners...

ms08
02-18-2006, 12:14 PM
Hi Jeremy
No its not that cold but we have some nice Easterly winds in from Siberia and the east recently and I live on the wrong side of England so winds have grounded. The local electric fliers also fly on a Friday so it is usually work instead.
I have the same problem with the rudder snake and my Tiny S servo chatters all the time. I tried mounting the connector upside down by fastening to the snake wire first so many thanks for the tip about shortening the allen key ( I hadn't thought of that one :D ) - that is a job for this weekend - it should also remove some of the twisting from the rudder control horn. That would be the only critisism I have of an excellent model. I have purchased a 2S1P 2500mAh LiPo (5 ozs) and a 3200mAh Nimh pack (16ozs) and Twin Star has come out at 32 ozs. I think I will be sticking with LiPos so I don't have to keep messing about with the C of G. I take it the real thing does not fly like the FMS sim which I have been chucking around the sky?
Would you recommend mixing for a beginner. I am using a Hitec Optic 6 with a 6 channel Rx so have set up flaps for now for landing purposes.

Regards
Mike

Jeremy Z
02-19-2006, 12:19 AM
Hi Jeremy
No its not that cold but we have some nice Easterly winds in from Siberia and the east recently and I live on the wrong side of England so winds have grounded. The local electric fliers also fly on a Friday so it is usually work instead.Get a 48" wing, brushless, with a big 3S LiPo for your next plane. You will thank me later. (refer to my thread in the flying wings forum---> http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?p=46562#post46562)

I have the same problem with the rudder snake and my Tiny S servo chatters all the time. I tried mounting the connector upside down by fastening to the snake wire first so many thanks for the tip about shortening the allen key ( I hadn't thought of that one :D ) - that is a job for this weekend - it should also remove some of the twisting from the rudder control horn.Shortening the allen wrench, I can't take credit for. Jürgen Heilig pointed that direction. Personally, I'm not big of that, because when you saw off the allen key, it's not going to have a great end on it any more, and it will no longer work, if you're not very careful. I just drilled a tiny hole in the horizontal stabilizer and used the allen wrench from below, through the stab. The hole is so tiny, you can't even see it, and there's no risk of botching up the wrench then.

That would be the only critisism I have of an excellent model. I have purchased a 2S1P 2500mAh LiPo (5 ozs) and a 3200mAh Nimh pack (16ozs) and Twin Star has come out at 32 ozs. I think I will be sticking with LiPos so I don't have to keep messing about with the C of G.You will probably have to mount the LiPo all the way forward in the battery bay to make it balance properly, and possibly even add weight in the nose somehow. (refer to Patrick Plawner's TwinStar 2 page) Hopefully, you will get by with just mounting it forward. I would suggest making a mark inside the battery compartment to line up with the LiPo pack, and one to line up with the NiMH pack. The NiMH pack will probably need to be pushed all the way back. (and then some, possibly ;) )


I take it the real thing does not fly like the FMS sim which I have been chucking around the sky?
It flies very much like the FMS model. The only thing FMS doesn't prepare you for is the long climbs with the heavy pack (remember, and FMS plane is always ideally set-up) and the long landings. FMS is VERY forgiving with landings. For example, it doesn't skid as far in FMS, and you can be pretty sloppy and FMS still shows a good landing. But for the actual flying, I have no real criticism. I have a dual analog controller for use with my PC and FMS. (didn't want to pop for the $50 USB cable for my radio) It is much harder to use throttle & rudder with this setup than with a radio & USB cable, since the throttle "stick" self-centers and has no ratcheting. More on real landings vs. FMS: although the touch-down is not as forgiving in real life, it is much easier to set up the approach, as you have all the peripheral vision you need. If you set up FMS so that you have that kind of peripheral vision, then you lose so much resolution on the plane, that you can't tell which way it's going. You know the drill. FMS is still a fantastic (and reasonably-priced!) tool. The TwinStar 2 model is one of the better ones I've come across. Certainly better than the T-Hawk model.

Would you recommend mixing for a beginner. I am using a Hitec Optic 6 with a 6 channel Rx so have set up flaps for now for landing purposes.No, but that is just my personal preference. I assume you're talking about rudder/aileron mix? Or are you talking about flaperon mix?

Personally, I believe that coordinating rudder/aileron manually leads to better flying skills and better intuition on how different inputs effect flight. That is just my stance. Many people use aileron/rudder mix to make it easier to fly smoothly. Personally, I would rather have to work a little harder, but be able to take all the credit when it comes off well. :cool:

I have flaperon mix set up on mine, but don't use it. This is partly because I dialed in too much flap travel. The Optic 6 manual suggests you start with 30% flap travel and see how that works. I dialed in 80%, but now I have to be careful not to push the flaps lever the whole way or I lose nearly all aileron control. Theoretically, this is fine, as you should be using only rudder on final approach anyhow. But I'm admittedly not as good with the rudder independent of the ailerons yet. Bottom line is that I'm too lazy to mess around and fine-tune it, so I don't use the function. I have gotten very good at landing without flaps and starting my final approach from way out. So I guess my advice would be to start with about 40% flap travel and be prepared to use up elevator to keep the nose up. (mine dips significantly when I deploy the flaperons) This can be mixed in with the Optic as well, if you don't mine fiddling. (I do mind, I'd rather be flying and am sometimes too impatient for my own good)

Jeremy Z
02-19-2006, 12:22 AM
Oh, one last thing. A drop or two of oil in the pushrod "snakes" goes a long way towards smoothing things out and unloading the servos.

Some people even go as far as to cut out some of the Elapor from the hinges, as they feel even that is too much of a load. The same guy actually cuts them loose and installs proper hinges. I don't care. I've got Hitec HS-81 servos, which are more than up to the task of actuating the servos with the stiff Elapor hinges.

I guess that is more than one more thing. Oh well.

Elfwreck
02-23-2006, 05:28 PM
Hey now,
So I got a bit crazy (er?) I broke down, bought the TwinStar, *and* a Twin Jet (been wanting one of those) and now have too manmy options:
1) twin Kontronic 400-23s in Jet, 480 permax or E-flite 370 1320kv in Srtar.
2)"stock" 480s in Jet and Kontronics in Star.
3) 480s in Jet, E-flites in Star, and Kontronics in Sonic Liner from last year.
Too many choices, but I have some time. I'm planning on cutting flaps and a bomb bay into the Twin Star, maybe even landing gear...
I did say I was a bit crazy...
RobII

Jeremy Z
02-23-2006, 06:11 PM
Rob,

Put the Konks in the TwinJet. This is the one that was deigned to go the fastest anyhow.

Put the Funs in the TwinStar 2. This plane needs more thrust than it has in stock configuration, IMO. I assume you can set them up for thrust rather than speed? And not lose too much speed along the way?

480s in the Sonic Liner. This one flies well enough stock, by the reports I've read. Remember, this is an airliner...

The main thing though is to set up the TwinStar with either a light LiPo battery (2S) or more thrusty motors than the speed 400s that are stock, or both. It just doesn't have enough grunt with an 8 cell sub C pack and speed 400s.

Elfwreck
02-23-2006, 11:19 PM
Hey now,
I could set up the Twin Star with the Eflite 370s. If I use 10-4.7 props I could use a 2s LiPo (about 10 amps per) or go with 8-5s and run 3s, still just a bit over ten amps per, but a *lot* more thrust than the s400 can motors.
They also put more of the input watts into actual thrust than the can motors so it should be an upgrade. If not I can always switch them later.

The Kontronics are deffinatly going in the Twin Jet, gotta go fast with that one:D
My Sonic flies o.k. with the stock motors, but I used colbalt 400s in the first one and that was nifty. Eh, the 480 will prolly push it around o.k.
Thanks
RobII

Jeremy Z
02-24-2006, 01:27 AM
Rob, I don't know if the E-Flite 370s with 10x4.7 on 2S would be fast enough on the TwinStar.

Yes, you would have a LOT more thrust, but I bet your top speed would go WAY down, making it easier to stall and crash.

Remember, in stock configuration, the TwinStar 2 will go 49 mph, flat.

Those tiny 5x4.3 Günther props are spinning at a hellacious rpm. Since they're so small in diameter, they don't make much thrust. But they do make speed. What does this mean to you? You'll have slow acceleration and slow climbs, but once you're up to speed, you'll be flying comfortably at a bit over half throttle. (assuming the wind gods are kind to you)

Your 10x4.7 props turning at a much much slower RPM will give outstanding thrust, but you're going to lose a heck of a lot of top speed. You will have quick climbs, but you'll be going pretty slow and may not even have enough speed to keep afloat comfortably. I guess it may help your cause that you are using a lightweight 2S battery. (how many Ah?)

Also, 10" diameter props may give you troubles as far as clearance with the fuselage or the ground.

Just some food for thought. Let us know what you end up with.

Elfwreck
02-24-2006, 04:25 PM
Hey now,
Right, 10-4.7s would be a bit slow for this, too big too.
However I could go with 8-5s or better 7-6s on 3s LiPos. 7-6s would bring up the pitch speed nicely, give fair clearance and still keep my amp draw in the safe range for this motor ESC combo. Too bad I couldn't get 6-6 three blade props, that'd be cool.

Of course I could spend too much money and just go with twin Mega four turn motors... Or even get another seven turn and run 8-6 props. Ah the choices, the choices...
No matter which I go with, I'm going to run servo extensions and power leads out to the motor naceles so I can swap out motors and ESCs easily.
This way I can play around with different set ups. Yeah, yeah, I'll twist the leads and maybe use ferrite rings to cut the RF noise.
RobII

TobesUK
02-28-2006, 06:04 PM
For comparison, on my TSII I use Speed 480BB and 6X4 props. I wired the motors in series to keep the amps down (single speed controller), and used a 4S Lipo to give 7.4V each motor - draws around 30 amps max. I used the data here:

http://www.flyingmodels.org/motortest/standard/graupner/sp480_bb_72v.htm


Plane flies very well. Plenty of climb power, good speed too, quite aerobatic. Flies around for about half an hour on 3800mAH. I'm very pleased with it. Also the C of G is fine with the Lipos mounted well back in the bay, almost as far back as they can go.

MarkFitzgerald
03-08-2006, 07:10 AM
I finally went flying with my TSII that I got for Christmas. Wow, does it go! At full throttle I just have to give it a push and it climbs like a rocket. It can cruise at less than half throttle. The winds were a little rough for a maiden so flying wasn't as much fun as it could have been and with the wind, I couldn't get it trimmed very well, but it sure flies smooth. Very predictable. I did three short flights with three nice landings (that's unusual for me). I didn't even try the flaperons and it landed so smooth on the snow.
Very happy. Can't wait to fly again. :D

Jeremy Z
03-08-2006, 06:47 PM
Hmmm... Mine doesn't climb like that. What type of battery are you using? Stock motors?

When you get the flaperons going, be prepared to either compensate with elevator or mix some up elevator in.

MarkFitzgerald
03-09-2006, 05:47 AM
My Setup:

2 Multiplex Brushless Motors BL-X 22-18
2 Multiplex MULTIcont BL-27 controllers
APC Propeller 8x3,8" propellers and
a TP 3200 7.4V lipo.

hyperlite74
03-12-2007, 04:30 PM
Hello all,

Just in the process of building a TSII and looking for a few suggestions on what battery to run ? have also seen a post regarding the standard props coming off ? is this true ? is there a more secure prop ?
Will be keeping it on standard motors for the time being.

Cheers

David

ms08
03-12-2007, 07:23 PM
Hi Hyperlite
In standard format is fine on 8 cell sub c pack as big a capacity as you can afford. I get about 12 + minutes on 3300's. Props are fine if you put the pin hole in the front of the spinner as per the instructions and use small amount of epoxy to glue them on.
Enjoy
Mike

hyperlite74
03-16-2007, 04:05 PM
Hello

Can anyone tell me what paints are safe on a Twinstar II

Cheers

David

n001pa
03-16-2007, 07:14 PM
My experience so far is that just about any paint seems to work with the elapor foam. I would test a small amount on a scrap piece or on a small spot inside the plane first to be sure.

I painted mine with enamel paint and it came out fine. Now if I could just figure out what's wrong with my electronics I'd fly the darn thing. I gave up on it for a while and it has been sitting. Maybe I'll get it down again this weekend and see if I can fix it.


http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f168/n001pa/DSCF1048.jpg

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f168/n001pa/DSCF1051.jpg

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f168/n001pa/DSCF1053.jpg

ms08
03-16-2007, 07:55 PM
That's a very nice looking Twin Star - great paint job n001pa. I used an automotive spray on mine which I think is probably acrylic based now. As stated just test an area - I use the scrap that was cut away from around the engine nancelles.
Mike

Simonone_E30
10-02-2007, 07:30 AM
hallo, everybody, I'm Simon, from Italy.
I just got my twinstar II, and waiting to assemble it.
The tail looks a bit too weak to me, due to the fact that top fin is glued to horizontal wing and then to the fusealage.
I had the same system on my easy glider (it unglued at least 3 times), and it proved to be way too weak, until I glued some wooden shafts passing through the tail up to the fin, keeping everything together.

Can you suggest any strengthening on my twin star? I want to paint it, so I'm not too willing to glue again and again parts together...

TYA

RonJ
10-02-2007, 12:21 PM
Simon,

You might try running a bamboo skewer up through the tail assembly.
Find a straight one, chuck it into a drill and run it up through. Works good. Skewers work good on foam. I use them to hold wires, controllers, receivers, etc. down in the fuselage,

RonJ

Simonone_E30
10-02-2007, 12:27 PM
Simon,

You might try running a bamboo skewer up through the tail assembly.
Find a straight one, chuck it into a drill and run it up through. Works good. Skewers work good on foam. I use them to hold wires, controllers, receivers, etc. down in the fuselage,

RonJ

thank you for the reply.
This is a confirmation that the tail needs strengthening up, then?
i will take it into consideration while assembling the TS II

MarkFitzgerald
10-02-2007, 12:38 PM
Simon,

I never had a problem with the tail strength. Never any flutter, but I crashed my TSII twice (last one fatal) when the elevator servo (regular HS81) stripped during a hard landing and I didn't realize it. I have a new TSII ready for assembly and have upgraded the two broken servos to metal gears. I would recommend that you only use metal or karbonite gear servos.

Mark

Simonone_E30
10-02-2007, 12:45 PM
how do you glue the tail, cyano + activator?

as for servos, I had no problem with standard servos on Easy glider, and I did pretty though maneuvers (fast wind).
I had a servo broken on a park flier, but only as a result of a crash...

Now I cannot change servos: i had the ARTF version of the twinstar, so all servos are already in place.

ms08
10-02-2007, 01:09 PM
I have had my Twin Star II about 18 months and no problems so far and built as standard. No heavy landings yet though. Whilst I can fly solo I am still learning so no aerobatics yet either.
Mike

Simonone_E30
10-02-2007, 01:14 PM
I have had my Twin Star II about 18 months and no problems so far and built as standard. No heavy landings yet though. Whilst I can fly solo I am still learning so no aerobatics yet either.
Mike

then I ask "how much is too much glue"?
On EG I used what looked like a reasonable quantity of glue, but it wasn't enough, as I discovered.
shall I put a thin layer, or a thick layer, or have glue flooding all around the pieces?

which is the rule of thumb?????

ms08
10-02-2007, 02:47 PM
Simonone
The engineering on M/Plex aircraft is first class to the fits of parts are excellent anyway and there is plenty of surface contact. With cyno, less is better - I just wetted the areas but not flooding them and fit the parts quick or they grab. I did not use kicker and used foam friendly cyno but now read in the magazines that ordinary cyno is fine with Elapor - I haven't test yet so would be cautious.
the only problem I had with construction was lining up the rudder snake but I fteed the connector in the horn upside down and shortened the allen key so I could tighten the grub screw. Others have drilled a small hole through the horizontal stab to put the allen key through.
The only other problem I have experienced is the ESC cutting out which it still does even though it has been replaced by M/Plex - ithink it gets too hot on part throttle. I am using 8 sub C cells on standard motors. I just glide a bit, close the throttle and fire it up again. Get about 15 minutes flying.
Mike

Mike

Simonone_E30
10-02-2007, 04:43 PM
BTW, are there some elapor products, like twinstar or minimag, in the states?
for many reasons, I would stay with the elapor models, but in europe there is not much other than multiplex production.
So if you can suggest me any website where I can get EPP models in the states, I would appreciate.

Simonone_E30
10-02-2007, 06:13 PM
Simonone
The only other problem I have experienced is the ESC cutting out which it still does even though it has been replaced by M/Plex - ithink it gets too hot on part throttle. I am using 8 sub C cells on standard motors. I just glide a bit, close the throttle and fire it up again. Get about 15 minutes flying.
Mike

I'm flying on LiPo s.
Well actually up to now I used them to propel a poorly-balanced parkflier into ground, and turn it into tiny bits, but I'm quite confident I can do better with twinstar :-)

ms08
10-02-2007, 06:32 PM
Simonone
I am in UK -Elapor is a trade name of M/Plex but there are other foamy products out there - plenty of Far East imports coming into Europe/UK but anyway M/Plex products are pretty good and there is a wode variety of them now.
I am self taught on Twin Star but have spend hours on PC flight sim and got someone at my local club to take off for me for the first few flights. I can now fly alone from take off to landing but I am still learning each flight. Would suggest you meet up with expienced flyer to help you if you have broken a model already. Twin Star is a good trainer but it can still bite.

Mike

Simonone_E30
10-02-2007, 10:01 PM
Simonone
I am in UK -Elapor is a trade name of M/Plex but there are other foamy products out there - plenty of Far East imports coming into Europe/UK but anyway M/Plex products are pretty good and there is a wode variety of them now.
I am self taught on Twin Star but have spend hours on PC flight sim and got someone at my local club to take off for me for the first few flights. I can now fly alone from take off to landing but I am still learning each flight. Would suggest you meet up with expienced flyer to help you if you have broken a model already. Twin Star is a good trainer but it can still bite.

Mike

Multiplex are fine for sure, but I'm not so much interested in acro, so after twinstar there's not much left for me.
I would like to have suggestion about "far east" producers, without wasting money in ebay-rubbish...

As for fying, I'm already flying an Easy glider with satisfaction on a quite windy mountain, and training on FSM.
I bought the TS II to fly on the same mountain (I have room for landing, don't worry) when wind is not enough for gliding.
Or, better said, I will glide when it will be too windy for the TS II.
As for the parkflyer, I broke because I got the model without engine mount, and I had to build the mount from scratch, with no measures and no die.
I did it very poorly, so the plane simply couldn't fly safely and lasted few seconds.

This is one of the reasons I'm sticking on Multiplex or "foamies" in general: I'm very poor-handed with balsa wood or scratch construction.

Simonone_E30
10-08-2007, 10:11 AM
I started with buildup, yesterday.
First of all I sanded the surface, in order to remove the moulding remains.
Then I glued the tail to the fusealage (much more tight fit than on the Easy glider) and painted the first round of white on the fusealage.
In the end it will be like this:
http://www.defenseindustrydaily.com/images/AIR_Dash-8-Q200_Coastwatch_With_Ship_lg.jpg

I still have to put the props in place (the manual says to glue them???), weld the proper connectors to the variator (I don't like welding at all, it never goes as I hope) and finish the painting.

First flight scheduled by beginning of november. ;-)

ms08
10-08-2007, 08:23 PM
Simonone

(the manual says to glue them???), weld the proper connectors to the variator (I don't like welding at all, it never goes as I hope)

Use small amount of epoxy - drill small holes through the spinners first to allow the air to escape as you push them onto the motor shafts and giving the motor shafts a quick rub with some abrasive paper to roughen htem up a bit.
As for soldering, just keep everything clean and use enough heat to gte a clean joint. The Twin Star in the Reflex flight sime is the same Coastguard colours.

Mike

Simonone_E30
10-09-2007, 07:29 AM
Simonone

(the manual says to glue them???), weld the proper connectors to the variator (I don't like welding at all, it never goes as I hope)

Use small amount of epoxy - drill small holes through the spinners first to allow the air to escape as you push them onto the motor shafts and giving the motor shafts a quick rub with some abrasive paper to roughen htem up a bit.
As for soldering, just keep everything clean and use enough heat to gte a clean joint. The Twin Star in the Reflex flight sime is the same Coastguard colours.

Mike

Props: what if I need to remove the props? is it easy to breack epoxy glueing?
Soldering: The issue is keeping the point clean. now I'm using my workbench sander, but the point is going thinner and thinner every day. I heard about some metal brushes, I have to find one.

Simonone_E30
10-09-2007, 07:30 AM
Painting: I'm using "Acrilate" aerosols. The result is fine, but it doesn't stick enough: when I masked the painted parts, the paper strip toke away some paint as well (already sanded the surface and cleaned it)

Simonone_E30
11-02-2007, 03:41 PM
Yesterday I had it's maiden flight. A lot of fun :-)
The plane is strong and quite predictable in its behavior (apart for a strange high sensibility to controls at medium speed/low altitude) and flies very neatly.
I had 3 or 4 short flights, and a longer one, with full satisfaction. even the last, bad "wingtip" landing resulted in nothing more than chipped paint.
In the meaintme I bought the minimag too, and I'm ready to fly it as well

Simonone_E30
11-04-2007, 04:13 PM
Here I am, after 3 happy flight days.
First of all, I may say I’m happy with my twinstar II
As I probably wrote, I started with an easy glider, but I switched to electric flight as soon as I could.
Explanation is simple: thanks to this all-saint long week end, I could fly more times and longer, than what I did in 15 months of Easy G ownership.
With EG was always long and frustrating waiting for some wind, that happened to be there when I was elsewhere during the week end, and disappeared in the lucky “free” afternoon I could manage to get from my Girlfriend.
And when it was not waiting, it was boring flights and retrievals due to lazy winds, and bad landings in the middle.

Now I just plug and have fun J

Back to flight: it is wonderful, very predictable and forgiving.
I could fly in some very moderate wind (I’m flying in the same place where I was supposed to “sail” with the EG) and the plane remained quite stable.
I noticed it is very fast even out o the box, for my capacities: I fly with middle throttle and is perfectly adequate, If I open full throttle it starts to climb and, If the plane is kept on a straight line and gains speed, controls get a bit too nervous.
To solve part of it, I added some weight in the nose, and mixed for a tiny bit of pitching when throttle is opened. About controls, I guess it is a matter of Exp and excursion trimming.

Coasting and landing are sweet, and after a couple of hard landings, I understood how to properly land, even if it is a “poo” landing: see the picture
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/519/03112007wu4.jpg
(yes, it is what it seems, and I was very luky too: it just touched down INTO it, it went from flying speed to halt in few inches)

Now here I am with troubles.
I own 2 lipo batteries.
Lipo #1 is a honk kong (ebay) sourced Energy EC, 11,1V 15C 3500mah. It is brand new
Lipo #2 is a germany (webshop) sourced Saehan, 11,1V 18C 2500 mah, brand new too.
Both are charged via a fully automatic Graupner Lipo Charger 4, the lipo # 2 is also balanced by a automatic Graupner balancer (#1 had a different connector, so I didn’t balance it yet)
Here is what happened with Lipo #1.
It works at full throttle for taking off, and works for the time necessary to gain speed, then throttle is back to middle. After a minute or two, power to engines would go completely off, as if BEC cut it. If throttle is switched to 0 and opened up again, power would turn out again. After this, the power would remain for 10 minutes with no more problems. One it happened to go to zero few more times during the flight, but it always came back and went on for minutes as expected.
After landing the battery is cold

Lipo #2 works finer, but today it did a similar cutoff to power. What I can say is that yesterday I recharged it while balancing until the charger would bleep full charge. Today I connected it again to the charger, and it went on charging for 30 minutes, without “charged message”.
Is it better to balance the battery separately, maybe?

I am particulary interested in solving out problem with Lipo #1, because price/specs ratio is very favourable, and I would by some more from the same supplier, if I can rely on its performance…

Simonone_E30
11-04-2007, 08:10 PM
more pics

http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/6379/twinstardavantivb9.jpg

Simonone_E30
11-04-2007, 08:10 PM
http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/6030/twinstarcodawx8.jpg

Simonone_E30
11-04-2007, 08:11 PM
http://img147.imageshack.us/img147/4299/twinstarlatosw5.jpg

ms08
11-05-2007, 06:39 PM
Hi Simone
Glad it is all going well and your Twin Star is looking good.
To be honest if using standard motors your 3S LiPo's (11.1v) are a little high voltage wise as you will be pulling more current through the motors which are 6 volt. If using full throttle don't expext the motors to last long.
I use 8 cell sub C packs 9.6v.
Here I think we can answer your problem as I have the same issue - cruising around on hlaf throttle and power cuts, glide and then power back on. What is happening is that the thermal cut out is kicking in as the ESC has to work much harder at part throttle settings. You are in a bit of a catch 22 as if you use full throttle your motors will not last long but on part throttle the ESC will cut. One option, which I really must get around to is to increase the airflow over the ESC keeping it cool. I am thinking of cutting a hole in the side of the fuselage to allow more air in where the ESC is and even may fit a heatsink to the ESC.
Here is a picture of my Twin Star which is nearly two years old.
http://www.flyingsites.co.uk/gallery/album/elec_power/odds_008.jpg

Simonone_E30
11-05-2007, 08:25 PM
Hi Simone
Glad it is all going well and your Twin Star is looking good.
To be honest if using standard motors your 3S LiPo's (11.1v) are a little high voltage wise as you will be pulling more current through the motors which are 6 volt. If using full throttle don't expext the motors to last long.
I use 8 cell sub C packs 9.6v.
Here I think we can answer your problem as I have the same issue - cruising around on hlaf throttle and power cuts, glide and then power back on. What is happening is that the thermal cut out is kicking in as the ESC has to work much harder at part throttle settings. You are in a bit of a catch 22 as if you use full throttle your motors will not last long but on part throttle the ESC will cut. One option, which I really must get around to is to increase the airflow over the ESC keeping it cool. I am thinking of cutting a hole in the side of the fuselage to allow more air in where the ESC is and even may fit a heatsink to the ESC.
Here is a picture of my Twin Star which is nearly two years old.
http://www.flyingsites.co.uk/gallery/album/elec_power/odds_008.jpg

Dear MS, thank you for answering.
About battery, as far as I could read, 11,1V is the battery of choiche on italian forums, so I just went for them.
I wanted to start with lipos straightaway, didn't want to invest in "old" technology.
I guess that motors at full throttle wouldn't last long, but I use full throttle just few seconds per flight.
I will think about BEC cooling, ,maybe with some scoop outside, driving air to the regulator.
I have another question: i saw around many amazing videos taken -as I understood- by stand-alone micro cameras mounted on model planes.
I looked for micro cameras on Ebay, with little success. Can you suggest me any webshop where I could get such hardware?

Your model is a Twin star, isn't it? which is the difference with Twinstar II, exactly?

ms08
11-06-2007, 07:12 AM
Hi Simone
My model is a Twin Star II - there are a number of differences between the two. I will see if I can find a link to a review of the older model.
I have a couple of 2S LiPos 7.4v which I planned to use but haven't as the ESC is not or was not LiPo friendly and could discharge them too far. On LiPo's would eb a good idea to get yourself a balancer to ensure that the voltage difference between the cells doesn't get too great. You don't need to use it every charge but every now and then just to check.
There has been a lot on the British model magazines about cameras so again will try and find you some details.
Meanwhile have a loook at this link - plenty to see.....on Twin Stars and other M/px aircraft

http://plawner.net/

Mike

Simonone_E30
11-06-2007, 07:18 AM
Cute link, thank you.
I own a balancer, but I can use it only on 1 battery, the other (the hong konger ) has a different plug, so I need to buy an adapter.
My doubt is wether is better to balance cells during the charging or after it. as I wrote, the one I balanced while charging, appeared to have less "power", and when I plugged the charger again without balancer, it went on 30minutes without returning "full charge" beep.

About painting: what do you use, to have the paint stick on EPP?
I painted the TSII with standard acrilic aerosol cans, and paint peels off just at the touch of my hand.
After that, I painted a minimag using multiplex primer under aerosol can: paint seems to stick a bit more, but it will still peel away quite easyly under certain circumstances (as pressure between 2 painted parts)

ms08
11-10-2007, 07:46 AM
Simone
To be honest I use a multimeter to check the individual cell voltages and only use the balancing if there is any significant difference and that charging may lead to a cell being overcharged. I think new chargers are getting more sophisticated and monitor each cell now but it means buying a new charger. As I say I use sub C cells at present so no worries. Don't forget though in winter with colder temperatures your battery capacity will be down anyway now until it warms up next spring. I am wondering if charging in the warm and keeping the battery warm has any effect on this to give better flight times?
On the paint side I used car acrylic paints and yes it does scuff off quite easily on wing tips, edges etc - I can live with that as I have seen Twin Stars held together with all sorts of patches and glues etc so mine doesn't look too worn yet. I think if primed it would be better but it all adds weight.......

Mike

Simonone_E30
11-20-2007, 08:00 AM
Here are some pics.
I had a flight during the weekend.
I have a slight setup problem: when I open gas the plane turns as if ailerons were applied. I don't know if it is an aileron alignemnt problem, or a motor alignemnt issue. how should I tell?

I had also my first bad landing :-(
I was a little annoyed because I had to abort 3 landings in a row, arriving too high or too fast on the strip, so during the last circuit I slowed down too much.
in the final turn, I slowed too much, the plane stalled and I could just try to align it to the ground.
the belly had an hard touch down, a prop got broken and the "cockpit" cover had a small dent.
not too bad for the plane, very bad for my self esteem :-/

http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/6469/copiaimg3765nq5.jpg

Simonone_E30
11-20-2007, 08:01 AM
http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/3343/copiaimg3899xu7.jpg

Simonone_E30
11-20-2007, 08:01 AM
http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/8247/copiaimg3879oc2.jpg

Simonone_E30
11-20-2007, 08:03 AM
this is the last pics that shows the place.
in the pics the plane is flying over the place I use as landing strip.
I learnt that, in order to land properly, I have to do my final turn over the field that is behind the fence in background.
The TS stalled in that field, behind the fence.

MarkFitzgerald
11-20-2007, 02:49 PM
Simonone,

Some people have converted the ailerons to either flaperons or spoilerons. Flaps are supposed to slow the aircraft and provide more lift and the spoilers are supposed to slow the aircraft and help it down. It requires a computer radio. I never got used to it, though. Maybe some experts can chime in here with their thoughts and/or experiences.

Mark

Simonone_E30
11-20-2007, 03:33 PM
Simonone,

Some people have converted the ailerons to either flaperons or spoilerons. Flaps are supposed to slow the aircraft and provide more lift and the spoilers are supposed to slow the aircraft and help it down. It requires a computer radio. I never got used to it, though. Maybe some experts can chime in here with their thoughts and/or experiences.

Mark

I'm using spoilers, with a low ratio, just to slow the aircraft a bit without any sudden lift loss.

The "failed" landings depended only on my mistakes, mainly because I forgot to cut the throttle when I was on the landing strip...
In other occasion I had perfectly smooth landings with spoilers on.

ms08
11-24-2007, 01:59 PM
Hi Simone
Sorry to hear about your crash but love the pictures.
I have flaperons on mine but to be honest have never used them - landing is the one thing that doesn't seem to trouble me - I think I practiced a lot with a slope soarer many years ago.......I just let it loose height as it wants and glide in gently - my BEC has always cut in by that point. If you have no power you always have to fly with the nose pointing down - slope soaring is greta practice for that.
Last time out I tried a few loops and rolls for the first time - no problems but it needs a little down to build speed for the loops before going up and over otherwise tends to fall off the top. I must try out the flaps but always get so engrossed in the flight forget that I have them.
Have you resolved your thrust problem? If the motor mounts are glued in place still it should be fine. When you say like aileron turn do you banking to one side or the other or skewing as if rudder had been applied?
Mike

Simonone_E30
11-25-2007, 04:34 PM
I prefer thinking about my crash as a "though landing" :-)

I can do loopoings in almost any condition: speed doesn't seems to be an issue with my TS II. Is it probably due to my 11,1V lipo?

As for thrust: it looks like banking on the right side.
I plan to have some flights on new year's eve vacation, so I'll work it out.

air4prs
08-13-2009, 04:37 PM
Just finished my first Twinstar. Went for an Air Force One theme. used the following set-up:
Suppo A 2217/8 brushless motors
40 Amp ESC
5 Amp UBEC
APC 8x6 e Props
2 each 3s 2200mah 20c lipo's hooked in parallel

Flew great on maiden flight, rolls, loops, inverted , and others. Great power set-up. After 15 min. of flight , I still had over 60% battery power left.

Some build and finish photo's

Paul