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trw41
01-15-2006, 05:36 PM
Any suggestions or warnings for gluing the foam parts together. Manual says do not use Epoxy or Foam Safe CA. Some say you can. Advice?

TManiaci
01-15-2006, 05:56 PM
Any suggestions or warnings for gluing the foam parts together. Manual says do not use Epoxy or Foam Safe CA. Some say you can. Advice?

I use the E-Flite Foam-Safe CA and kicker. Works fine.

Don Sims
01-16-2006, 01:12 AM
I used regular CA and kicker. Worked fine for me.

falingtrea
01-16-2006, 01:41 AM
I have also used regular and thick CA with kicker on my Easy Glider eletric with no problems.

Jeremy Z
01-17-2006, 05:55 PM
Elapor is not sensitive to regular CA or accelerator, so why waste the $10 a bottle foam-safe stuff on it? Also, Multiplex recommends it, which should count for something. ;)

I used thin & thick CAs on my TwinStar II. To my knowledge, there's not thin foam-safe CA out there. It came in mighty handy when glueing the vertical stabilizer on, and when glueing the "snakes" in their grooves.

To hold the servos in, just follow their instructions and glue the ears with a hot glue gun on the low heat setting. That stuff is brilliant, when used appropriately.

Jeremy

Elfwreck
01-18-2006, 05:43 PM
Hey now,
Epoxy doesn't stick well to elapor or EPP, so don't use it. In a crash it just pops loose:eek: .
Foam safe CA as others have said works well, but isn't needed. Regular CA is safe for this foam. Goop would work too, but it takes a long time to set up.
Although it really works well thinned a bit for the belly skid...
Just spray one side of the joint with accelerator, let it dry, and lay out CA on the other side. Line them up carefuly and press them together. Um, make sure you line things up perfectly as there's no second chance:eek:
RobII

TManiaci
01-18-2006, 05:53 PM
If you are patient, Gorrilla Glue works very well on foam materials, and acts as a great filler. Nice where joints don't quite fit up well. The stuff slowly expands like urethane foam. Babysit it while it's expanding and setting, wiping or scraping off the ooze as it grows out of the joints. Helps to wet one surface with water a little to get it to kick off more rapidly. Makes an indestructable joint.

Twmaster
01-18-2006, 06:00 PM
Hey now,
Epoxy doesn't stick well to elapor or EPP, so don't use it. In a crash it just pops loose:eek: .

Actually in my experience epoxy works just fine on this foam. Field repairs on the Easy Star have proven this in my flying group.

maybeso
06-05-2006, 02:41 PM
Have to agree with TManiachi about the Gorilla Glue, this stuff is a PU (Polyurethane) Glue like Elmers and it does a superb job on both new builds and repairs, I just finished a funjet using it and I have built and repared twinjets with it. Only downsides I find are the amount of time for it to cure and having to SECURELEY tape any joins to stop it oozing out once it foams up. I find a good line down the centre of one peice (for instance a tail stab) and wipe the other peice with a damp earbud before joining. Once the glue starts to foam it expands and fills any other space within the joint and as long as you have taped the outside to stop it expanding outwards it will penetrate and grip the foam very well.

Solid Hit
06-06-2006, 11:58 AM
Gorilla Glue if you want a 2 hour project to take 2 or more days waiting for each section to dry, or, as the mfg tells you - regular CA and kicker. If you have some time - 10 or 15 min, use UVU. You can get it at a craft store like Michael's. It works great for foam, fabric, and cf.

frvrngn
06-06-2006, 02:57 PM
PU/Gorilla Glue will setup in less than hour the way I was taught to use it. I premix GG and water in a small dixie cup. You dont need an exact ratio, it will only accept so much water and the rest you can just pour off the top. You also dont need that much glue, a little will foam a lot. Stir it up well with a tooth pick, popsicle stick, etc and it will start foaming in minutes. Then spread the foaming mixture onto what ever it is you want glued and mate the parts together. I use painters tape to hold the parts together until the foaming stops. Just wipe off any squeeze out as it sets up. Normally within a half hour its setup enough to remove the tape and get rid of squeeze out. After its setup you can cut or sand off any excess. The key is water. Without water, it Will take a long time to cure. They say in the instructions to dampen one side before mating together. While that works, you will get a lot more excess squeeze out. You really need a lot less glue than you think.

I love the glue and use it on many things from EPP to wood. Its really great for filling in larger cracks from damage since it foams. Its fairly lightweight and very strong bonding.

Elfwreck
06-06-2006, 05:52 PM
Hey now,
I don't personaly like the PU/gorilla glue, it's strong, sure. but so is titebond. The stuff is messy, hard to sand, and looks awful.
I use Ca, titebond, goop and epoxy. Sometimes I even buy a tube of Ambroid, but I only use that as insense, I open the tube, place a blob on a piece of scrap and let the smell waft around the build-shop, brings back memories of "the old days":D
For elepor/epp I use ca or goop and that's about it. Never any problems...
RobII

jonnyjetprop
06-06-2006, 07:09 PM
I've always used CA and kicker. I let the kicker flash off before mating the parts together. It cuts down on the heat generated.

John

Virgil Kee
06-12-2006, 09:22 AM
I think I read somewhere that canopy glue is safe on elapor. Has anyone tried it? OR: Is it so slow that it's not useful? :confused:

Virg.

Up&Away
06-12-2006, 10:35 AM
On Multiplex's elapor, use medium CA and kicker (sparingly!).
Gorilla Glue is great for many purposes, however once set it doesn't "give". The strength of Multiplex models is that they are very forgiving with vertical landings, sub zero altitude passes, etc. With Gorilla Glue, the joints that otherwise would bend, will crack. Worse, Gorilla Glue works into the foam pores so you may get pieces of foam going missing.
Epoxy, otherwise known as liquid lead, is ok if you can use it very, very sparingly.
With CA and kicker, at worst the CA will crack along the glueline. That can easily be repared in the field.

Just my $0.02

Up&Away
06-12-2006, 10:36 AM
I think I read somewhere that canopy glue is safe on elapor. Has anyone tried it? OR: Is it so slow that it's not useful? :confused:

Virg.
Only one way to find out; try on a piece of spare foam...

jonnyjetprop
06-12-2006, 04:08 PM
I'm sure that canopy glue would work, but it takes overnight to set up.

John

Virgil Kee
06-15-2006, 03:50 AM
I just received my Twinstar II, made of molded elapor. On previous foamies, I've covered them with silkspan tissue, adhering with dilute white glue. This was done to 1.) smooth out the surface, 2.) harden it against dings, and, make the model able to be cleaned --- our club's flying field is located on drained swampland - the soil made up principally of inches of what looks like 80% pure carbon from decomposed plant life, deposited there ever since the most recent glacial period! Hands DO get dirty!

Is there any way to cover elapor with tissue in view of what's in this thread and in other discussions about what will stick to the stuff?

Also, I'm skeptical about packing tape on the underside to protect it when landing on grass (and worse!). Packing tape on compound curves? Any comments?

Finally, does anyone worry about the little mold marks on the TwinStar II? Do you invest the 1 3/4 hours attempting to sand them off (or nearly off)?

Finally II, Does anyone finish elapor with acrylic spray, such as Krylon clear?

Sorry about so many questions in one posting. Feel free to comment on any or all of these.

Thanks, Virg.

Bill G
06-15-2006, 05:55 AM
All of the Testors and Testors Model Masters seem to work on foam just fine. always test, of course.
I've been using this Eflite foam safe CA. I'll probably be spending the few extra bucks and buying much more of it. More flexible than standard CA, doesn't knock you clean out, when using it, and doesn't tear out of the foam in a chunk, like standard CA. I think the slight flexibility increase over stadard CA allows it to distribute stresses better, when bonded to foam. More like epoxy, but much fater with kicker. Thick too, which can be bothe good or bad, but seems to be a good quality for what it is intended for.

Virgil, the silkspan seems like too much work. I use Monokote, Econokote, and even Coverite on foam. If you work it on without hard pressure at the lowest temp possible, it works very well. Done countless this way. If you really want light, use the Coverite. Goes on with very low heat. don't listen to them either. Applied to foam or balsa sheet, it paints just fine with Model Masters.

Up&Away
06-15-2006, 07:00 AM
Is there any way to cover elapor with tissue in view of what's in this thread and in other discussions about what will stick to the stuff?

As with most types of foam, you can cover yout TS with heat shrink (eg Oracover etc). Spray a light coating of 3M77 glue, wait 5-10 minutes, and cover. You'll have to sand the "mold bumps" of first though. That is not so difficult. With a piece of sandpaper, sand in a circular motions over the bumps. It took me all of 45 minutes on my EasyGlider.

Also, I'm skeptical about packing tape on the underside to protect it when landing on grass (and worse!). Packing tape on compound curves? Any comments?
I use fibertape on the belly only. No problem. Just make small cuts width wise where a curve is. Start taping from the tail, that way any overlap will be front to rear.

Finally, does anyone worry about the little mold marks on the TwinStar II? Do you invest the 1 3/4 hours attempting to sand them off (or nearly off)?

As mentioned above, wheather you cover with heatshrink film or just paint, your TS will look nicer without the bumps. Also, the decalls will stick better on the surfaces without the bumps.

Finally II, Does anyone finish elapor with acrylic spray, such as Krylon clear?
Have a look at Patrick Plawner's (http://plawner.net/)website for more ideas.

Moonwalker
11-21-2006, 09:30 PM
Can Multiplex Elapor be put together completely with hot glue? (I used yellow carpenter's glue on the fins and that worked but I like hot glue for some reason as it is fast and there is no fumes like CA and other solvent based glues).

Don Sims
11-22-2006, 12:11 AM
I've used it, worked fine. Hot glue also makes great hinge material on EPP, run a bead and then use a credit card and spread it down the length of the item needing to be hinged.

crobar
01-13-2011, 02:04 AM
As with most types of foam, you can cover yout TS with heat shrink (eg Oracover etc). Spray a light coating of 3M77 glue, wait 5-10 minutes, and cover. You'll have to sand the "mold bumps" of first though. That is not so difficult. With a piece of sandpaper, sand in a circular motions over the bumps. It took me all of 45 minutes on my EasyGlider.

I use fibertape on the belly only. No problem. Just make small cuts width wise where a curve is. Start taping from the tail, that way any overlap will be front to rear.

As mentioned above, wheather you cover with heatshrink film or just paint, your TS will look nicer without the bumps. Also, the decalls will stick better on the surfaces without the bumps.

Have a look at Patrick Plawner's (http://plawner.net/)website for more ideas.

I am currently using the relatively new Krylon H2O spray paint on regular styrafoam and it works great. I don't know if it works well on elapor but I'm going to try it on the Fun Cub elapor floats I received today.
The fiber packing tape is great for the bottom of floats that will be used on snow and for almost any other surface. It provides a slick surface and it adheres well. We have some icy surfaces during winter. I smear ca medium along the edges of the tape out to the edges of the floats. It keeps the tape edges in tact and is also smooth when dried.

stevecooper
01-13-2011, 02:36 AM
Use thin coats as H2O spray paint expands some as it dries and will warp the wing if applied to thickly, I've used it on many plane's an love the stuff,,their supposed to have quit make'in it two years ago so I got a few cases of it back then, here's a few H2O paint jobs,bubsteve

Oldpilot
01-13-2011, 04:49 AM
Zap-A-Gap Rules. Yay. :D

Lazyflier
02-23-2011, 08:33 AM
Zap Goo used on my Zeno and Fun Cub. Used to use CA with Kicker and still do on the control horns. Zap Goo allows you some time to align parts and sets up in about 30 minutes and cures in one day.

Bill Linske
02-23-2011, 02:12 PM
When all else fails, read instructions! Multiplex recommends Medium CA glue and an accelerator. I use Tower Hobbies Med CA and their kicker. I hot glue the servos in place in case I have to remove them. I've built seven Multiplex models and have had great results with the Tower products. ps. I love the Minimag and the Fun Cub is the greatest yet!

TlM
03-14-2011, 06:57 PM
Hot glue, fast and flexible.

Multiple repairs with CA tends make the plane less resistant to impacts because it gets so hard and brittle. I am sure that the urethanes work well but are slow. My buddies and I use hot glue and are back in the air in minutes. Push the joints really tight so that you aren't adding a bunch of weight with a thick glue line. There is a window of time that the excess that squeezed out can be peeled off easily without burning yourself.

Crasher
06-10-2013, 12:04 AM
I am a little concerned on gluing the two FunCub fuselage sides together using CA; will I have enough time to get them fully together before the glue sets? There is a lot of gluing surface to cover on these two large parts. I have used regular medium CA on all of the rest of assembly, but these parts and surfaces are small and I was able to move quickly to get the pieces together. With the fuselage, I am not so sure.

Also, I found the standard "living hinges" to be to stiff to my liking; I cut all of them off and replaced them with DuBro nylon pin hinges, number 116. Now all of my control surfaces are totally free which my servos will love!

Thanks for reading guys; Crasher