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dbcisco
10-14-2008, 03:22 AM
I am putting together a vintage (die crushed parts) Guillow's SE5. Besides the vague and scrambled instructions/plans, I want to convert it to electric powered RC (no ailerons though). Anyone been there-done that. Help and tips needed. I have their DR1, Camel and Bristol still in boxes. I thought I would start with this one first because I have built a rubber powers "easy-built" SE before. The Easy-built crumpled when I tried to coverite it, the guillow's at least will handle the coverite, not sure about the conversion. I was planning on using a GWS 400 w/gearbox and electronics in the Guillows.

I will take pics as I go along, maybe others can learn from my mistakes, this is a definite R&D project.

Biplane Murphy
10-14-2008, 03:28 AM
Hi dbcisco,

Look here for a build on a similar plane going on right now (Camel).....:)

http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39480

Bill does a lot of this type of building, so I am sure he could help out with a few pointers.
He has an SE5a and a DR1 conversions flying right now too.

Good luck with your project,
Murph.

Bill G
10-14-2008, 05:05 AM
I did one on RCGoofs starting at post #44.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=197670&page=3&pp=20&highlight=se5a

Nice little flyer. Been flying it and the DR1 a good bit lately.

barmonkey
10-14-2008, 05:34 AM
Good to see yet another build thread here! Bring those pics...your post and pics will not only help others, but will help you help yourself!

BTW...a GWS 400 w/gearox? That would be way too heavy and large.....

dbcisco
10-14-2008, 06:29 AM
Good to see yet another build thread here! Bring those pics...your post and pics will not only help others, but will help you help yourself!

BTW...a GWS 400 w/gearox? That would be way too heavy and large.....

I was going to use an IPS but all I have is EPS's. I thought that the set up from my Wattage Camel and J-3 (EPSes) would work since this will be a bit heavier than my PicoMoth (IPS driven). I don't want to go brushless, I have to many brushed motors and ESC laying around looking for homes;)

I have the EPS set in and it fits nicely in the nose. I read that getting weight in the nose of the balsa models is difficult and that some people had to put lead weight in the nose. I would rather have something more useful than lead. It is easier to keep throttle low than to be underpowered too. (I think)

degreen60
10-14-2008, 01:31 PM
What is the wing span on the SE5A? I have a Sterling SE5A I built years ago and never flew. I been thinking about trying to put brushless and RC into it. It has a 24 inch span.

dbcisco
10-14-2008, 01:41 PM
The wingspan is 24" on the Guillows SE5

degreen60
10-14-2008, 03:29 PM
I am planning on using a small brushless motor. I have a couple of tape drive motors that I am going to rewind but not change the magnets. I will try 6 to 8 inch props. I am flying an Eflight Jenny on a 7 inch prop brushless using 2s lipo so I think the SE5a should do ok on about the same setup. The SE5a I don't think will have a tail heavy problem cause it does not have the short nose like the Camel. I will be using pull-pull for controls to save tail weight.

7car7
10-14-2008, 04:22 PM
I might sugguest the GWS 350, instead of the 400. That is what I use in my Tiger Moths, and I've been real happy. Certainly heavier than the IPS, but much more powerful.

I've seen others call it a 300, so I'm not really sure what the real name is.

degreen60
10-14-2008, 08:05 PM
Here is another thread on this plane. http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19016&page=3

dbcisco
10-16-2008, 02:42 AM
I might sugguest the GWS 350, instead of the 400. That is what I use in my Tiger Moths, and I've been real happy. Certainly heavier than the IPS, but much more powerful.

I've seen others call it a 300, so I'm not really sure what the real name is.

The motor in mine is a 370. I am thinking of putting in a 180 though.
The nomenclature for motors about drives me crazy. Just got the Heli motor nonsense down and now airplanes are driving me crazy:D

Bill G
10-16-2008, 04:24 AM
The motor in mine is a 370. I am thinking of putting in a 180 though.
The nomenclature for motors about drives me crazy. Just got the Heli motor nonsense down and now airplanes are driving me crazy:D
If you use any of those motors, you probably will not do well unless they are geared. The small props that they use DD are not well suited to these planes. I have flown planes as large as a GP Hellcat with a geared 180, although not extremely powerful. I had done conversions with the brushed motors in the past, and had some success. My Guillows Spitfire flys well on a geared GWS350. Still, at this point I've been convinced to go with smaller outrunners or geared 12mm bl motors, due to space constraints and ease of mounting. Fitting a strong stick mount in these planes is a lot more work than simply gluing on a thin ply firewall for an outrunner mount.

The other problem is that some of the brushed setups I have in higher wing load conversions are pushed so hard to get the power out of them, that they are generally unreliable.

dbcisco
10-16-2008, 04:56 AM
I guess the gearbox (approx. 6:1) with a 180 is more likely to die than the 370. I would to love to throw away all my brushed motors and ESC's and put in brushless. Sadly, I have a box full of brushed motors and ESC's and little in my wallet:(
I am not really worried about over all weight, what I am worried about is getting the CG right. The gearbox and motor are 1.5 oz. Quite a bit in the nose when I only have electronics and a battery to offset it in the body.
Maybe putting the battery as far in the tail as far as I can.

degreen60
10-16-2008, 06:15 PM
Here is a lot of links to Guillows R/C builds. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=827861#post9275360

Bill G
10-17-2008, 01:00 AM
I guess the gearbox (approx. 6:1) with a 180 is more likely to die than the 370. I would to love to throw away all my brushed motors and ESC's and put in brushless. Sadly, I have a box full of brushed motors and ESC's and little in my wallet:(
I am not really worried about over all weight, what I am worried about is getting the CG right. The gearbox and motor are 1.5 oz. Quite a bit in the nose when I only have electronics and a battery to offset it in the body.
Maybe putting the battery as far in the tail as far as I can.
I have a bag of brushed ESCs and motors too. Know the feeling.
Those little 180 motors have proven quite tough for me. I had one bashed onto a GWS IPS-A gearbox, and ran it on 3s for many flights in a GP Hellcat with both 2 and 3 blade 9x7 props. I thought it would burn up immediatley. I still have the 180 geared setup in working order after maybe 30 good flights, although I put a bl motor in the Hellcat.
The 370 is simply more weight than you need to set CG, making the plane heavier. The beauty of the SE5A is that it has a long nose, allowing it to balance with less nose weight than other WWI bipes.

If you used a 370 motor, the batt would probably only need to be moved back to under the wing, but I would try to do anything to talk you out of that, and use a 180, if you go brushed. IPS is questionable for power, unless you build really light, which is tough to do with Guillows. I stole a 5866kv Feigao bl IPS size motor from my Guillows DR1 for a micro jet, and it would not fly on a brushed IPS. It now has a 4100kv Feigao IPS which flys fine. The 5866kv was ballistic in it.:D

The IPS brushed dual is a good underutilzed setup. I had one in a Guillows Zero with A gearing and 9070 3-blader on 3s. Flew with power. Eventually burned a motor, but would have done fine if propped down to 8". I've since replaced the bad motor to use it again someday, as the Zero now has a bl setup.

dbcisco
10-21-2008, 01:46 PM
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb237/dbcisco/SE5motor.jpgI put a 180 motor in the gearbox and used some RTV to get better support and vibration damping. The gearbox is epoxied in with a couplke degrees down and right offset.

Bill G
10-21-2008, 05:05 PM
180 should do the job. I ended up putting a bit of lead to add noseweight to my SE5A with short can 12mm Feigao, so the 180 should be ample weight, without being too much noseweight. Just some thoughts on the batt/gear access which worked well:

dbcisco
10-25-2008, 04:56 AM
Well, I have the servos in and am starting to cover up the fuselage. I am using some fine sheet balsa on the places where the original used wood or metal. I was thinking of using silk for the rest of the fuselage. I will use coverlite on the wings though. I am also considering using depron for the tail feathers because I just need some foam for my psyche;-). The foam could be easily replaced in the future if I want. After looking at some restored S.E.5's I think it will look pretty close to the original.
I also am simply making cotton padded compartments under the wing opening for the RX, ESC and battery.

Bill G
10-25-2008, 05:01 AM
Well, I have the servos in and am starting to cover up the fuselage. I am using some fine sheet balsa on the places where the original used wood or metal. I was thinking of using silk for the rest of the fuselage. I will use coverlite on the wings though. I am also considering using depron for the tail feathers because I just need some foam for my psyche;-). The foam could be easily replaced in the future if I want. After looking at some restored S.E.5's I think it will look pretty close to the original.
I also am simply making cotton padded compartments under the wing opening for the RX, ESC and battery.You could also put a steerable tailwheel in, as some restored SE5As have. I incorporated mine in with the tailskid with a tiny 3/8" plastic Dubro tailwheel, which is hardly noticable. The taiskid has thin brass tubing inside it, with a steering arm that goes into the rudder. The steerable tailwheel has worked well for ROG takeoff.

dbcisco
10-25-2008, 05:38 AM
You could also put a steerable tailwheel in, as some restored SE5As have. I incorporated mine in with the tailskid with a tiny 3/8" plastic Dubro tailwheel, which is hardly noticable. The taiskid has thin brass tubing inside it, with a steering arm that goes into the rudder. The steerable tailwheel has worked well for ROG takeoff.

Do you know what the Dubro part number is, or a picture? If you have ever been to my LHS you would know why I ask:blah:

Bill G
10-25-2008, 06:06 AM
Do you know what the Dubro part number is, or a picture? If you have ever been to my LHS you would know why I ask:blah:
Here's a picture of what they are, although I get them from my LHS:
http://www.rcdude.com/servlet/the-694/DUBRO-3-fdsh-8%22-Micro-Tail/Detail

They have 3/8" and 1/2" sizes available in small plastic tailwheels

reuben199
11-01-2008, 06:03 AM
Hey,
Well, I've decided to bite the bullet and build a 3 channel S.E.5.a. rudder/elevator, its an old die-cut kit 24" wing span and I was a bit concerned with the quality but maybe the die's were sharp that day ;-) the wood quality appears ok aswell.
I'm planning on using a waypoint W-E2205-36 motor 28 grams 1770kv, waypoint W-EBLESC-15 esc 17grams, APC SF 6x4 prop, 3s 800mah lipo's, spektrum AR6100e receiver, 2x micro servo's.
My main concerns are -covering it?
-Dihedral? scale or the 1" recommended for flight?
-Tail surfaces... as per plan or flat sheet?

Any tips would be great.
Thanks Reuben

Bill G
11-01-2008, 06:27 AM
:DHey,
Well, I've decided to bite the bullet and build a 3 channel S.E.5.a. rudder/elevator, its an old die-cut kit 24" wing span and I was a bit concerned with the quality but maybe the die's were sharp that day ;-) the wood quality appears ok aswell.
I'm planning on using a waypoint W-E2205-36 motor 28 grams 1770kv, waypoint W-EBLESC-15 esc 17grams, APC SF 6x4 prop, 3s 800mah lipo's, spektrum AR6100e receiver, 2x micro servo's.
My main concerns are -covering it?
-Dihedral? scale or the 1" recommended for flight?
-Tail surfaces... as per plan or flat sheet?

Any tips would be great.
Thanks ReubenSomebody's online at this time of night.:D
I built tail per plan, but I tend to like strong heavy stringer wood, which weighs more than some think. The Guillows perimeter frame wood is often heavy, in addition to being fairly thick, at over 1/16". They seem to use some off size that's a bit over standard 1/16" sheet for those parts. If you can find some really light 1/32" sheet balsa, you can cover with Coverlite or tissue and end up at the same weight.

I gave mine (just walked out to the living room to check it out where it's hanging) a good 1" of dihedral for rud/elev flying. From flight, I would say it could be reduced a bit and still have good stability. If anything, mine may have a bit much, as the dihedral helps induce roll from the rudder yaw, which makes it "swing" a bit excessively on turns.

Weight wise, if you can get everything up front, the slightly heavier ESC and motor will be fine. I used a geared 12mm Feigao, but progressively added lead to enhance stability. I probably have a total of roughly 1-1/2 ounces, between motor/gearbox/lead weight up front. Maybe more. I can get you a CG measurement also when needed.
Battery wise, I cannot fit larger than a TP 3s-730 in the compartment, as I have it. You could go a bit taller, but would have to trim the top fuse keel down, and laminate the sides of that area with stringers to replace strength lost, if I remember the area correctly. As I have the batt mounted, it does not require any rework of the airframe for it's compartment space.

reuben199
11-01-2008, 06:49 AM
Hey Bill,
Its 6pm on this side of the world :D
I've just started the fuselarge, I'm thinking I will build the one side then make a servo tray and work out a battery compartment before I add the othersides formers. I think I will build the wing and add the 1" dihedral they recommend. -Reuben

reuben199
11-03-2008, 08:45 AM
Hi,
So far I have built the left side fuse and the lower wing (dihedral yet to be added).

I'm looking for tips regarding placement of my gear, I'm thinking either to stand the battery vertically in the compartment in front of the wing.... or lay it flat infront of the wing with the esc mounted above it? and have a full length tray that the servo's will be mounted in to, for servo placement I'm thinking above the lower wing with an access panel in the lower wing, however I have seen some with the servo's in the cockpit area? this is where I would like to put the receiver as it will be easier to see its light (its a spektrum ar6100e) also are light pushrods ok or do I attempt a pull/pull system?

Any pointers and photo's would be greatly appreciated :ws:

-Thanks Reuben

dbcisco
11-03-2008, 01:02 PM
Here's my build so far. These pics show the RX and ESC I'm using and the placement of the servos. This also shows the metal and glass board I use and in the background of one pic you can see the stack of magnets I use. The odd looking cresent shaped bits of metal are the super strong magnets from hard-drives that I use to hold the glass to the metal plate.

http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb237/dbcisco/PICT0002wmagnets.jpg

http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb237/dbcisco/PICT0001.jpg

Bill G
11-03-2008, 05:04 PM
Moving along well. Having one of these, I would try to talk you into moving the servos as far forward as possible, but the plane can handle some added noseweight with no problem for balance. The long nose with the 180 should help a lot too. The 180 was a good choice as the IPS brushed are likely to not have the power to fly these Guillows planes, as I've found out. The SE5A has a wing pan which is just asking to be made into an access panel, so there is no problem accessing servos under the wing.

dbcisco
11-03-2008, 05:11 PM
Moving along well. Having one of these, I would try to talk you into moving the servos as far forward as possible, but the plane can handle some added noseweight with no problem for balance. The SE5A has a wing pan which is just asking to be made into an access panel, so there is no problem accessing them under the wing.
I am making the wings detatchable. So far the CG is pretty nice, by adjusting (and choosing) the battery I can move the CG around quite a bit. I also am using alot of balsa skin on the nose which helps. I like the servos under the cockpit for adjustments and replacement. They also provide smoother movement of the control rods where they are. More pics to follow this week.

Bill G
11-03-2008, 05:17 PM
Yep, definitely want to sheet the nose so it looks scale and adds noseweight. Nice feature as it makes for a strong plane too.
I like easy adjustments on gear too, and use the adjustable servo horn links. It is a bit tedious working inside the fuses of these small planes.

reuben199
11-03-2008, 06:30 PM
Hey DB and Bill,
Thanks the pic's and info it is greatly appreciated, I'll add some photo's when the rest of my gear arrives, feel free to add any comments etc. -Reuben

rhino
11-04-2008, 02:37 AM
Looking good, dbcisco!

dbcisco
11-04-2008, 04:42 AM
Have skinned the nose and added some reinforcements. Yes that is a popsicle stick. It is where I am putting fixtures to hold the cabane struts with tiny screws. I also reinforced the sides of the wing bay area with balsa. CG still decent, too.

http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb237/dbcisco/SE5skin1.jpg

reuben199
11-04-2008, 06:13 AM
Dbcisco,
I like the sheeting idea, I have some 1/64 birch plywood that I'm going to use. The popsicle stick is a good idea Im thinking I need to upgrade the wing struts and their mounting area. I was thinking of using some flat carbon sheet for the wing struts and landing gear or some ply. Do you have any tips or ideas regarding the rigging eyelets? if I use the carbon for the wing struts then I might drill holes through them and pass wire through the fuselarge with eyelets for the center ones? I hope that makes sense:D
Im just building the elevator tonight and should have that finished tonight/tomorrow.
Cheers Reuben

Bill G
11-04-2008, 06:20 AM
Speaking of CG, I just checked my CG a few minutes ago for you and it is:
CG: 14mm back from LE of bottom wing

I would not try further back than 15, as I flew it just a few mm rearward from my current setting and it was a handful.

For rigging eyelets, I cut off GWS Pico Stick pushrod guides and attached them to my SE5A struts with a wrap of Guillow's control line string and CA. Worked well.

reuben199
11-04-2008, 06:45 AM
Thanks Bill,
For me to buy the pico stick push rod guides locally I would have to buy the whole kit ($59 NZ)
I will try to find something else that will do the job, I'm guessing that something small and round that I can bind to the wing struts will work.

I will write your COG measurment on to my plans for reference:)

Thanks again,
Reuben

7car7
11-04-2008, 03:43 PM
I made 2 different kinds on my last build. Some were made of music wire, put thru the spars, and some were nylong string, tied into a tiny loop, then tied to the structure before the covering went on.

degreen60
11-04-2008, 04:27 PM
On my planes where the brace wires are for looks only I try to use one continously wire(string). Where it needs to run through balsa or foam I glue a glass bead or if it needs to run a distance through a wing or fuselage I glue a piece of cotton swap plastic tube. At the end of the completed loop I tie both ends to a polyband scunci that granddaughter uses in her hair. That keeps the wire tight. Polybands also are good to hold prop on prop saver.

reuben199
11-06-2008, 09:19 AM
Hey guy's,
The last of my gear arrived today, the motor/esc and an AR6100e.
I had an idea where I was going to place everything.... but I've run in to a snag... the esc? I thought I could mount it behind the motor but its giving me clearance problems.
I'll add a pic, any advice would be great.
-Reuben

Bill G
11-06-2008, 12:44 PM
I know we don't all have money to constantly shell out for super light ESCs like the Castle TBird-6, so I'm not going to blame you for wanting to use that ESC. I ended up with my SE5A's ESC mounted under the wing, and it is a small TBird-9. I'm using a TP-PL 3s-480 and geared 12mm Feigao, and ended up needing maybe 1/2oz of nose lead if I remember correctly. With your up-front weight being more than mine, you may want the ESC under the wing.

I also like the TP ProLites as the smaller sizes don't have the balancer in the way also. I charge my small batts at low rates, and they have held up well.

On a 2 sided issue, I've gotten some of these planes to fly well, while pretty heavy. On the other hand, I would try to size down the ESC and batt to what you need.

reuben199
11-06-2008, 06:25 PM
Thanks Bill,
I'm kind of thinking the same thing. I'll see what I can find locally in the way of a smaller esc, I know I can get smaller batteries.
Thanks Reuben

degreen60
11-07-2008, 12:16 AM
Hey guy's,
The last of my gear arrived today, the motor/esc and an AR6100e.
I had an idea where I was going to place everything.... but I've run in to a snag... the esc? I thought I could mount it behind the motor but its giving me clearance problems.
I'll add a pic, any advice would be great.
-Reuben

Will the ESC mount vertical between the battery and servo with the flat side toward the battery?

Saucerguy2
11-07-2008, 02:57 AM
Looking good, I had a lot of fun with mine as well. I managed to stuff a 11.1, 3 cell, 1000 mah lipo in mine and I was able to stuff in a 35 amp esc in that same compartment. It was a tight fit, but it balanced out quite well with no added nose weight needed. http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19112 Shows the bones, I have some final build log kicking around the web somewhere, lol.

reuben199
11-07-2008, 04:49 AM
Will the ESC mount vertical between the battery and servo with the flat side toward the battery?


Hey,
It will fit but the wires have to be bent over, with the motor wires at the top leaving the battery wires at the bottom (but ideally I would prefer them the other way around)

I'm not beaten yet and currently I'm thinking of mounting the esc horizontally under the top of the cowlingabove the servo's.

Thanks Reuben

reuben199
11-09-2008, 06:07 AM
Hey,
Just thought I would add a couple of pic's. I have made a tray running from the cowl to the servo's, its still in the design stage:D
I'm thinking of mounting the elevator servo upside down, the servo horn will be under the bottom of the rudder servo and vice versa (I hope that makes sense) The elevator rod will exit on the right side of the fuse and the rudder will exit on the left.

Eventually I will drill some holes in the tray to lighten it up. I'm still working on where the battery and esc will go, if I can I will mount the battery vertically and the esc behind it between the battery and receiver.
-Reuben

Saucerguy2
11-09-2008, 07:50 AM
I did the same thing on another Guillows kit, it really helped strengthen it up and made it more sane with adding the gear since you have a platform to work on.

reuben199
11-09-2008, 08:35 AM
Hi,
Thats what I'm thinking also :ws:. I'm currently just sitting the gear on there and finding the best set up. I'll add a pic with the gear on, (I'm now thinking I will try the esc and receiver verticle).
-Reuben

reuben199
11-20-2008, 09:59 AM
Hey,
Thanks everyone for your help:), I've come to the conclusion that my gear is just to heavy and bulky for this build, so I'm now just going to super detail it as a static model and use the gear in an e-flite SE5a. I really enjoyed reading what you guys have been able to do and hopefully one day I'll also be able to convert one of these kits but right now I think I would just be making match sticks :eek:
Cheers Reuben

dbcisco
11-21-2008, 04:05 AM
OK, Got the fuselage almost finished (pics to come when I get camera batteries). Weight with everything except battery is under 5 ounces. Alot less than I thought it would be. My little Nicad is about 4oz. but I can go with an even lighter Lipo if needed. Now if I can keep the wings between 6 and 10 ounces I will be very happy. Any hints on lightening the wings ? I will be using monocote/coverlite on them. Can I eliminate anything without them collapsing during heat shrink (or flight/landing/etc.)?

Saucerguy2
11-21-2008, 05:23 PM
I used monocoat, solite, and ultracoat on mine, the solite was the best bet, it's the lightest. Static model???? Do we still make those these days. :) That bird is a flyer, even with the bulky gear, it will do just fine, just watch the incidence.

degreen60
11-21-2008, 07:40 PM
I am doing an experment with covering a Sterling UC Fokker DVII converted to EP RC with plastic kitchen wrap. I am gluing it on with school glue stick. It shrinks with low heat, is light weight, and is tuff. Don't know how paint will hold up on it.

dbcisco
11-26-2008, 07:46 AM
Here are the foam tail feathers. Lightening up the tail a bit. I also covered the tail skid in epoxy and a pin through it for strength.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb237/dbcisco/PICT0001-1.jpghttp://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb237/dbcisco/PICT0002-1.jpg

dbcisco
11-26-2008, 07:47 AM
Adding a little trim to the cockpit.
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb237/dbcisco/PICT0003.jpg

dbcisco
11-26-2008, 07:49 AM
Everything done except bottom cover and a headrest in the cockpit,
http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb237/dbcisco/PICT0005-2.jpg

dbcisco
12-26-2008, 01:39 AM
Fuselage complete.

http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb237/dbcisco/SE5fusedone.jpg

Now to start the wings.

dbcisco
04-01-2009, 04:07 AM
Scratch made depron wings with no top dihedral but doubled on bottom (like my Camel). CG is good, might put a little extra weight in nose until I'm sure.
So, here's my war weathered SE5:

http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb237/dbcisco/se5.jpg

7car7
04-01-2009, 03:47 PM
Fly it!

Could be just the photo, but it seems the left upper wing has a bit of down twist. Hoping it doesn't cause issues.

dbcisco
04-01-2009, 04:29 PM
Fly it!

Could be just the photo, but it seems the left upper wing has a bit of down twist. Hoping it doesn't cause issues.

The wing has a little droop on the tip, picture makes it very noticeable.
I'll try and get decent pics up as soon as I lean to use thumbnails here.????

dbcisco
04-02-2009, 07:42 PM
At the moment I am trying a new experiment. I am using the pilot and gun plastic sheet as a mold for making them out of celluclay (instant paper mache'). It's taking forever to dry but I am hoping they will come out nice enough for "flying details".
I also got rid of the wing droop, a slight rigging adjustment and... perfect. I think I'll do some rigging on the tail, it seems a bit off as well.

The total weight with battery is 10 oz. I have a 200 speed motor (180 brushed) with 5:1 gearbox. any suggestions or thoughts welcomed.

P.S. Is this now a "foamie"?

degreen60
04-03-2009, 02:30 AM
I am using the pilot and gun plastic sheet as a mold for making them out of celluclay (instant paper mache'). It's taking forever to dry but I am hoping they will come out nice enough for "flying details".


I fill the plastic pilots halves from my models with plaster and use them as masters with a Matel Vac U Form to make more pilots.

dbcisco
04-03-2009, 02:33 AM
I fill the plastic pilots halves from my models with plaster and use them as masters with a Matel Vac U Form to make more pilots.

Love that idea. The Mattel "toys" are great "tools". I wish I had them all.

dbcisco
04-05-2009, 06:39 AM
Paper mache worked nice for gun and pilot. Here she is, ready for maiden:

http://i211.photobucket.com/albums/bb237/dbcisco/se5done1cropb.jpg

7car7
04-06-2009, 03:13 PM
Looks sharp! Sure hoping for a great flight report. If you're like me, you're waiting a LONG time lately for a calm day.

dbcisco
04-06-2009, 03:39 PM
We're getting the March winds in April so I guess we'll have April showers throughout May. :blah:

cvdry010
02-20-2011, 11:47 AM
Hi iam new to wattflyer,Ihave not built any aircraft for 45yrs then onlly f/flight.I no nothing brushless motors, servos, batteries or jargon used to describe these.I am building a Guillows SE.5a 1/4 scale 24in wingspan.have read a lot of what you have scribed on this site but cannot decide best way to go can anyone help kind regards
cvdry

Saucerguy2
02-20-2011, 09:27 PM
Hi iam new to wattflyer,Ihave not built any aircraft for 45yrs then onlly f/flight.I no nothing brushless motors, servos, batteries or jargon used to describe these.I am building a Guillows SE.5a 1/4 scale 24in wingspan.have read a lot of what you have scribed on this site but cannot decide best way to go can anyone help kind regards
cvdry
Welcome to WF. If you go back to the first page on this one, it shows the early building stages for this bird, there also is a link to my own build log on it, and both show how to modify it to handle the gear.

I'll reccomend an even lighter set up then what both of us have shown. That plane, like most guillows planes are designed for free flight, so the gear adds a significant amount of extra inertia onto the airframe., Combining it with the fact, they scale them down to be just too small for average RC optimums.

Hunt around for 2 cell lipo's, 9g servo's, 1000 kv light weight brushless, and you'll be good to go. This plane doesn't need a huge powerhouse to get airborn. My plane died in a non flight related accident, lol. and if I were to recreate it, it would be with the smaller gear.

cvdry010
02-22-2011, 07:15 PM
Hi Bil newman on the block need help with r/c

cvdry010
02-24-2011, 08:17 AM
Hi Thanks for your time saucerguy2,will read pages,with all the new stuff out available get confused,even material covering for kites have changed but not sure i like the idea of heat shrink. experimented with expanding plans to twice the size while they are still crisp no problems caused some comments in the office though