View Full Version : BEC for a Castle HV 85
04-17-2009, 02:30 PM
Dear Bros....I just purchased a Phoenix HV 85. I intend to utilize a 6S2P A123 to power an eFlight 90 motor. Since the instructions indicate that the ESC is without a BEC, is there a BEC that somebody can recommend? I am new to electrics. Thanks all
04-17-2009, 02:38 PM
This is all I use. And since it is Castle as well it'll be a good fit.
04-17-2009, 04:55 PM
04-17-2009, 05:25 PM
Glad to help!:D
04-27-2009, 09:40 PM
How'd you come out on that 6S2P A123 pack?
PS, I also use the Castle Creations BEC, second year now, its been flawless on my 2.4 Ghz Spektrum radio.
04-30-2009, 12:25 AM
Thanks for the recommendation on the BEC, your advice is very much appreciated.
I temporairly ran out of time for this project but still advancing more slowly.
I have read and studied the task of building the packs in probably too great of detail for my own good, yet I come away very informed. You might not expect from the questions that I have posed to you that I am an oil refinery technician with experience testing and troubleshooting 3 phase 480V and 4160V equiptment (probably to my detriment)
You might recall that I obtained a few "D" cells to practice soldering on. My completed work on these cells looked perfect and with this confiednce I embarked on soldering the A123's. My finshed product was less than acceptable.
So I hunted and read more coming upon a; "hammerhead" soldering tip for my 40 watt iron, aluminum flux, a solder that is better suited for aluminum and tabs ($0.99 each) that will be required since I had to purchase cells to make a count of 12.
I have a list of vendors and web site links should you desire. Gotta run now.
I'll get back to you soon and Thanks.......
04-30-2009, 04:28 AM
P.S. I believe that I over temped my A123's batteries when I soldered them. S*&^ canned them and bought two more "authentic" A123's.
04-30-2009, 05:15 AM
I, for one, would love your list of vendors for the solder tabs. It was my original goal to power my e-conversion with a 10S A123 pack through my CC HV85 on a ZPower Z50-800, although I settled on LiPo as I didn't have a charging solution. I'd love to complete the switch to A123 this year sometime.
FYI, I hear great things about the CC BEC, unfortunately at 30V with my 8S pack I couldn't use it so I went with the Century ELECTRON SWITCHING BEC good for 11V - 37V at 3A.
04-30-2009, 05:33 PM
Here ya go............6 (ea) delivered to my front door within a week $6.64
06-02-2009, 04:37 AM
My hat is off to Kyleservicetech and Castle Creations for the; excellent advice, guidance and patience that they have extended to me (an individual who swore he would never own an electric) in building my first electric. Never thought that I would own one! I am impressed. Could not have done it with out Dennis. XOXOXO
P.S. Dennis the 18x12 turned it into an animal. Still awaiting minor parts.
06-02-2009, 04:47 AM
Good to hear! Let us know how it flys!
06-02-2009, 05:19 AM
Will do sir..........photos to follow. Shame on you, it's past your bed time!
06-02-2009, 03:55 PM
What can I say, we are retired, now we can be night owls!
06-02-2009, 05:01 PM
Here ya go............6 (ea) delivered to my front door within a week $6.64
I'm guessing you noticed the hole in these battery bars: it makes attaching a balancing wire a snap!
And, I find the Castle BEC to be the best I've used.
06-06-2009, 01:02 AM
Although the 18x12 moves an impressive amount of air, the watt meter displayed 42amps @ 745 watts. I am not getting the amps and watts values everybody else is getting. I was not that impressed with the in air performance.
So I am building this 8S2P pack. More voltage = more umph. That will be 2(ea) 4S2P in series. I realize that is more weight is involved.
And upon building a 4S2P pack, I connect the balancer leads and hook up the blinky and find that no lights illuminate. All the voltages check good at the blinky connection. Can you explain why did the blinky fail to operate when the pack is 4S2P?
Thank you Jerry
06-06-2009, 03:41 AM
Question, do you have the "A123" version of the blinky, and not the LiPo version which is about 1/2 volt higher?
And, that E-flight motor is rated for more voltage than the 6S2P A123 pack.
06-06-2009, 03:44 AM
Yes sir, I have the A123 version and the Eflight 90 is rated for 28 volts.
06-06-2009, 03:56 AM
That's strange. If you have the proper polarity on your Blinky, looks like it somehow died?
I've had mine for two years, with no problems what ever, but that's just one of these. A club member had another brand that he plugged into the battery, with the other brand "Upside down". That blew out the balancer.
I mark both the balancer and balance cables with a piece of red tape to make danged certain to not insert the balancer upside down.
06-06-2009, 04:01 AM
Good polarity. Same display when I disconected the two similar wires on my 6S2P to simulate a 4S2P. Blinky still works on reconnection
06-06-2009, 04:42 PM
Do you all ready have the four extra A123 cells for the 8S2P? If not, have you considered putting in a Hacker A50-12S motor? That would cost more, but this motor is a few ounces less than your Eflite 90. And you will not have to mess with trying to get the extra batteries to fit in your model, and the extra work to charge the two packs.
My Hacker A50-12S motor turns a 14X10 APC-E prop at 7900 RPM, and takes an 8 pound model rather fast. I've also got a Hacker A50-16S on my Showtime 50, works well, and I get 8 minutes flying time, taking about 60% capacity out of the battery.
And I assume you are using an Electric APC-E 18X12 prop, and not a prop for a glow/gas engine?? These electric props are far more efficient for electric motors.
06-06-2009, 05:29 PM
If you decide to go with your existing Eflite 90 motor with 8S2P cells, that would increase your wattage from 700 or so to about 1200, and still be within the rating of the Eflite 90 motor and batteries.
Did you say you are using the CC HV (High Voltage) ESC. You need the HV version for the 8S2P A123 cells.
That 8S2P A123 pack along with your Eflite 90 will run your power loading up to 150 Watts per pound. That's quite a bit more than you would get from good 70 Class 4 stroke glow engine!
06-07-2009, 03:27 AM
Yes I am going with the 8S2P and have been using a Castle Creations HV-85 ESC with the 18x12 APC-E prop. 150 Watts per pound is what I was shooting for.
To reach these power levels with my ESC and Eflight 90, it looks like my only option is to increase voltage by going form a 6S2P to an 8S2P.
I was wondering why my, when I turned my 6S2P into a 4S2P the blinky stopped working, yet works when I connect it up to the 6S2P configuration.
Different connector required.
06-07-2009, 05:30 AM
Surgery complete........2(ea) 4s2P in series giving me 26.4 volts. After I tidy things up will I will do another amp/watt check.
Cruised around the discussion boards and found out how to BS the blinky into working again by shifting the blinky over a couple of pins to coincide with the new pack configuration. All OK
06-07-2009, 05:39 AM
That sounds much better than what you had before with the 6S2P A123 and the Eflite 90. Adding those two extra series cells gives much more power output than one would expect, using the same prop.
That's why using the whattmeter is so critical, as you are doing.
FYI, the other thread on this subject now has 1270 readers, so many modelers have gotten information on this thread!
06-07-2009, 06:45 AM
68 amps and 1550 ish watts pulled at burst with the 8S2P pack!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thats what I'm talking about! This witch oughta fly good.
I am going to try the 16x12 again. Gut feeling tells me that I should probably hang out in this prop ranger. Your thoughts please.
1270 brothers receiving information on the other thread!
For continuity, I should have remained posting there in the spirit of helping a fellow modler as you have helped me.
Talk to you soon
06-07-2009, 07:54 PM
That 18X12 is pulling a lot of current for that Eflite 90, so doing hovers might heat the motor up, so keep an eye on the motor temperature. But, flying at 1/2 throttle or so will cause that current to drop down to perhaps 20 amps or so. I've found that my Showtime with the Hacker A50-16S pulls about 13 Amps with just enough power to keep it in the air.
As for the A123's, as long as you have air blowing over that pack during a flight, they won't get hot. I've measured about 10 degrees above ambient after a flight with an infra-red thermometer. They get hotter than than that while sitting in the hot sun.
We are under overcast skies, with rain today. But last Thursday, I did some flying with my scratch build accelerometer in my new Great Planes "Revolver". Found that this model had "G" forces as high as 9.5 G's! And that was with just a normal loop. That's covered under another thread.
06-08-2009, 04:50 AM
Yes, the watt meter confirmed that my configuration of; batt's, esc and motor would be detrimental to these parts if I fly this like I do my gasser. With this I intend to watch my energy management.
I have also removed some balsa from the firewall and ultracoat from the bottom of the fuselage for cooling.
I assume that it is normal to see an electrical arc at the connection point when I connect the bat to esc and that this is normal.
Question is; for CG considerations, how far is your foreward battery pack form the firewall?
Please include a link to your 9.5 g monster that you refered to.
06-08-2009, 04:39 PM
As long as you have openings in your fuse for air to pass through, you should be OK. It's a good idea to pick up an infrared thermometer if you have any questions. But, if you can hold your hand on the battery or motor for 20 seconds without branding yourself after a flight you are pretty much OK.
I've found my motors, ESC and battery packs are about 10 degrees F over ambient after a flight, putting them in the low 100 degrees F.
An electrical spark is quite normal when you plug in these high powered battery packs to the ESC. (These ESC's have large capacitors across their input circuit. The spark results from the near instantaneous very high current charging of these capacitors when plugging in.) Keep an eye on the connectors through. After a season or two of flying, these connectors can have eroded contacts. When that happens, its a good idea to replace them.
As for the battery location, they were split into two packs to balance the model. The first pack is just forward of the wing tube, the second is just behind the same wing tube. With your two pairs of 4S2P packs, its a matter of making the model balance properly.
That model will really be powered up, so don't pull full up elevator at full speed. Don't know just how strong that model is, but would hate to make a fuselage shaped splat in the ground while your wings go bye bye!
Below is the link to the acceleration thread.
06-08-2009, 05:05 PM
Good morning Mr. Man with answers:
Yes I have Fluke and will be aware of temperatures. Fuselage is well ventilated though. My intension is to go quite easy on the entire set-up until I get comfortable and not to over; amp, heat, stress (or what ever)
The arcing of the contacts from charging capacitors makes sense. No way to eliminate this.
Looks like one of my packs will be right close to the firewall, the other just behind the wing tube.
As you advised, limit my first flight to 4 or 5 minutes and not to fly it like my gasser.
I briefly looked at your acceleration thread last night at work. I'm not sure that I want to know what the g's will be. It could be scary.
vBulletin® v3.8.3, Copyright ©2000-2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.