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Ricky401
07-12-2009, 04:05 PM
Hi
I've got myslef an HV 85 ESC and an axi 2826/12 (soon to be upgraded to 4130/16) motor. I am using a 5s2p battery.

There are a couple of things that I cannot figure out (I am new to electrics by the way)

1) in the instructions it says if using >3s lip to remove the red lead formthe receiver connection. If i do this though it seems to stop it working altogether so at present I am trying to bench test it with this lead still on - but am using an independent battery for the receiver.


what should I do here?

2) I cannot get it to spin the motor up properly. I can get life out of it - but as soon as I try to increase the throttle a little bit it spins up then stalls. It seems to do this in a sequence though, ie if I up the throttle gradually until it first starts to move then leave it - it seems to go through 3 or 4 very tiny increases in the revs then stops dead. the red light then flashes on and off continually. If I reduce the throttle again to zero - it will intermittently make one flash and beep. I can use it again though bu t the same thing happens.

I don't know much about this but the mototr seems to be jumping a bit as though if it were a car engine the timing is out? I've played with the three standard timing settings on the motor but though it seems to smooth the jumping a bit - it still jumps and it still stalls.


I am using a futaba tx and the throttle is reversed as instructed.
any advicee would be most gratefully received as this is very frustrating.

thanks

Rick

CHELLIE
07-12-2009, 08:50 PM
Hi
I've got myslef an HV 85 ESC and an axi 2826/12 (soon to be upgraded to 4130/16) motor. I am using a 5s2p battery.

There are a couple of things that I cannot figure out (I am new to electrics by the way)

1) in the instructions it says if using >3s lip to remove the red lead formthe receiver connection. If i do this though it seems to stop it working altogether so at present I am trying to bench test it with this lead still on - but am using an independent battery for the receiver.


what should I do here?

2) I cannot get it to spin the motor up properly. I can get life out of it - but as soon as I try to increase the throttle a little bit it spins up then stalls. It seems to do this in a sequence though, ie if I up the throttle gradually until it first starts to move then leave it - it seems to go through 3 or 4 very tiny increases in the revs then stops dead. the red light then flashes on and off continually. If I reduce the throttle again to zero - it will intermittently make one flash and beep. I can use it again though bu t the same thing happens.

I don't know much about this but the mototr seems to be jumping a bit as though if it were a car engine the timing is out? I've played with the three standard timing settings on the motor but though it seems to smooth the jumping a bit - it still jumps and it still stalls.


I am using a futaba tx and the throttle is reversed as instructed.
any advicee would be most gratefully received as this is very frustrating.

thanks

Rick

Hi Rick :ws: Normally, if using more than a 3 cell lipo, you have to remove the red wire, to eliminate the bec in the ESC, and Use a UBEC, i like the castle creation 10 AMP UBEC, the timing on the ESC may need to be Changed for your motor, to a higher timing degree, Also, some ESC dont work well with some motors, they just dont like each other :D it has to do with feed back, I hope this gives you a little Start in what to look for, Take care, Chellie

CHELLIE
07-12-2009, 09:04 PM
Great Advice Larry :ws: Yes I agree with you, bad wiring connections are a big problem a lot of times, Rick, Larry is one Sharp Rascal :D if he cant help you, no one can ;) Take care, Chellie

Ricky401
07-12-2009, 09:20 PM
Thanks Chelie
your post lead me to do some reading up on UBEC and i foudn another of your posts referring to them here

thread number 39138 (I can't post links as I'm new)

in that it says

The chance of total loss of power is greatly reduced when a separate receiver battery pack or UBEC is used.

I note there the 'or' and assume that this mean that I can either use
1) a separate battery pack - which is what I am trying to do

or
2) I can use a UBEC.

is that correct?

Ricky401
07-12-2009, 09:25 PM
thanks Larry

that would explain why it did nothing at all when the red lead was off!
I will go check more on the connections. The rest of your advice sounds great too so I will take heed.

The motor has no prop on it at the moment. It is 'bench' fitted at present while I am just trying to get the ESC working.

The voltage on the battery is jsut under 20 and the cu off for the ESC is set at 3.3v per cell - it's a 5 cell battery so should be alright.

I am leaning towards the connections so I'll have another try at those I think.

any other advice would be equally well recieved

thanks very much. I'll let you know what I find.

CHELLIE
07-12-2009, 09:42 PM
Thanks Chelie
your post lead me to do some reading up on UBEC and i foudn another of your posts referring to them here

thread number 39138 (I can't post links as I'm new)

in that it says

The chance of total loss of power is greatly reduced when a separate receiver battery pack or UBEC is used.

I note there the 'or' and assume that this mean that I can either use
1) a separate battery pack - which is what I am trying to do

or
2) I can use a UBEC.

is that correct?

Yes that Is correct Normally, reason being, most ESC have a Linear BEC, if it says its rated for 2 amps, it not, at best 1 amp, Then you have the more expensive ESC that have a Switching BEC, much much better, its a true amp rating, most larger ESC over 50 AMPS dont have a BEC built into them, so you have to use a seperate UBEC for power for the receiver and servos and to control the ESC, the bec in the cheaper ESC will fail quite quickly if over amped, and will cause a brown out if using 2.4 radio system, ( Brown Out = Temp loss of electrical power to receiver, resulting in a 2 to 3 second Reboot of Receiver = Crash ) and if using FM a bec can just get over worked and burn up and that = Crash , I always like to use a bec rating of 1 amp per servo, thats makes everything safe :D take care, Chellie

here is the best UBEC on the market IMHO

http://www.castlecreations.com/products/cc_bec.html

http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39138

Ricky401
07-16-2009, 09:41 PM
I'm still having trouble with this guys. I've checked the connections and they all seem ok.

Any other suggestions?

Larry3215
07-17-2009, 02:17 AM
You cant tell by looking at them. The only way to be sure is to re-solder them and be sure you dont move them untill they cool. You dont want a 'cold solder joint'.

Have you tried that motor on a different esc? Its possible your esc is bad but its also possible the motor is bad.

Highest probability is still connections :)

Id try the motor on a different esc and try the esc with a different motor. That might narrow it down.

Ricky401
07-17-2009, 12:19 PM
Thanks again Larry.

I am going to redo all joints VERY carefully once more and remove the connectors and solder the joints throughout

the motor worked ok on another esc by the way so that would appear to be ok.

Fingers crossed!

BoysToys
08-03-2009, 09:00 PM
Let me see if I can help a little.

I have been using an HV85 in my TRex 600 for right at a year now.

The HV-85 does not have a built in BEC. You do not need, or want to remove the red wire from the esc. The included instructions are for both the HV and regular Phoenix models. As Chelli stated, you will need either a seperate receiver pack or a UBEC. If you want to run your receiver off your 5S flight pack you should check out the Western Robotics line of high voltage capable UBEC.
http://www.readyheli.com/Western_Robotics_Hercules_5amp_5_AMP_Battery_Elimi _p/wrl-hbechv.htm

http://www.readyheli.com/Western_Robotics_Hercules_Battery_Eliminator_Circu _p/wrl-hbec5-fslash-6.htm

Personally, I have had great luck with the Dimension Engineering Sport BEC on two 500 sized helicopters (TRex 500, and MSH Protos) running 6S packs and all digital servos.

http://www.dimensionengineering.com/SportBEC.htm

According to the manual, One flash and one beep = Start Failure or motor jammed locked. Like others have said, check your connections and make sure they are all good.

Is the motor or the esc new? If so try switching the esc and the motor with a spare to see if you can isolate the problem to either the esc or the motor.

Hope this helps.

B