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xray328
03-18-2006, 12:56 AM
I don't like the way the shipping tape looks. Anyone glass the Magpie?

Is it my understanding that you just use minwax mixed with bb powder? No actual fiberglass cloth? Is it just one coat?

Rugar
03-18-2006, 01:12 AM
When I do mine I'm going to cover it with Ultrakote.
I'm far from knowledgible on this subject so someone set me straight if I'm wrong, but I don't see what just coating it with Minwax is going to do to add any strength. Seems like it would just crack on a bad landing or when stressed. You need the pores filled in the fiberglass cloth to make it strong.

xray328
03-18-2006, 01:53 AM
Ok, thats mankes sense. One coat though? Is mixing it with BB powder required? Any idea on added weight? 1oz, 5oz...?

fabricator
03-18-2006, 01:59 AM
Mine looks like this in ultracote
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y6/fabricator01/DSC00471.jpg
Since the pic I've done away with the rubber bands and made the wing bolt on, also done away with the antenna and put a spektrum in it.

xray328
03-18-2006, 02:05 AM
Can you give me the kindergarten approach to how you did that? Isn't ultracoat a covering?

I see you also cut the front flush? Are you using balsa as a mount? Can you give me a close up of that area?

Thanks!

fabricator
03-18-2006, 02:28 AM
Can you give me the kindergarten approach to how you did that? Isn't ultracoat a covering?

I see you also cut the front flush? Are you using balsa as a mount? Can you give me a close up of that area?

Thanks!

Yeah, ultracote is an iron on covering, it really was no big deal, you just have to watch the temp of the iron because it WILL melt the foam if you get it to hot, and keep the iron moving, dont linger in a spot to long, since I did the magpie I have used econocote on other foamies, it works even better because it has a lower temperature, less chance of melting the foam.
On the nose I just used a flat ply firewall in the original location and closed off the sides and used a light piece of aluminum to close off the front, the battery is in the belly, you can just make out the hatch just behind the where the nose curve stops, the reciever is behind the cover on the side.
I took a piece of 3/8 copper pipe sharpened the end and made a hole through the middle of the fuse so all the wiring can run inside, I like smooth, not a bunch of rube goldberg stuff hanging on the outside.:)

xray328
03-18-2006, 03:24 AM
I just know I'd end up poking the tube through the side of the fuselage. Did you send it through the entire length of the fuselage ? Isn't the copper tube heavy?

I like the looks, its slick.

I'm still leaning toward glassing it though for durability.

fabricator
03-18-2006, 03:34 AM
I just know I'd end up poking the tube through the side of the fuselage. Did you send it through the entire length of the fuselage ? Isn't the copper tube heavy?

I like the looks, its slick.

I'm still leaning toward glassing it though for durability.

No, you poke the hole then pull the tube out leaving a hole through the fuse, and yes it goes to the rear servo mounts, if you are going to glass it you have to use some kind of cloth or there will be no extra strength, then when you get it glassed you need to paint which adds weight, the iron on covering is light weight and already colored and adds a lot of strength, I played with the minwax polycrilic and .75 oz fiberglass cloth and didnt like the result, with the film you iron it on and your done, with the minwax you put it on and still have a relatively uneven surface, that needs to be sanded and painted and will never be as perfect as iron on film.

xray328
03-18-2006, 03:48 AM
Ok, now that makes sense (copper tube). Dummy me. :o

Maybe I'll just glass the motor mount area. Thats where it got all smashed up last time.

I'll try that hole method (assuming I can poke a straight hole). I agree about the wires running all over.

fabricator
03-18-2006, 04:06 AM
Ok, now that makes sense (copper tube). Dummy me. :o

Maybe I'll just glass the motor mount area. Thats where it got all smashed up last time.

I'll try that hole method (assuming I can poke a straight hole). I agree about the wires running all over.

Instead of glass you might consider just laminating thin ply wood over the areas you feel need strenghthening some guys have sheeted the entire fuse and covered it with iron on film, I believe there is a many page thread over on RC universe on the magpie with tons of things people have done to magpies.

xray328
03-18-2006, 05:24 AM
Been there, tried that. But I did it after the damage was done to hold the broken parts together.

I didn't realize the glass would come out all lumpy. One faq I was reading said to wrap toliet paper around the glass to absorb an excess epoxy?

fabricator
03-18-2006, 01:31 PM
I really dont know about the toilet paper thing, I would suggest you just get a piece of foam and experiment, just play with it a little.

xray328
03-18-2006, 05:50 PM
Actually, now that I look at it, the roll should should be rolled across the surface. Anyway...I'll give it a shot and post my results. Thanks for the help.

TeamTEOR
03-19-2006, 07:22 AM
I don't like the way the shipping tape looks. Anyone glass the Magpie?

Is it my understanding that you just use minwax mixed with bb powder? No actual fiberglass cloth? Is it just one coat?
I did glass my MagpieAP with .75oz glass on the really stressed parts of the fuse and .5oz on the rest of the fuse, I also used .75oz on the LE and TE of the main wing. For the stabs I laminated the TE of both with 6mm flat carbon fiber. The white foam grabs on to a black foam brush so if you can use a hair style one. 2 coats of Water based poly is all I used, no thinning or adding of baby powder. The glass is even over the wood parts on the fuse, so it is super strong. Once the glass job dried I covered the fuse and wing with Econocote. It worked great. The only thing I wish I had done was use larger ply wood on the area where the rubber band touches the LE and TE of the main wing.

BTW the lumpiness is inherant to the white foam used. If you want it smooth, you are going to have to use some micro-lite filler and sand it smooth.

I did also use some flat carbon on the entire bottom & top of the fuse, and so it would not flex at all that way. It is a really rock solid ship.

TeamTEOR
03-19-2006, 07:41 AM
Here are a couple of pics of it the first day at the field.

Also, one last thing worth noting, the stock wood horns are great, but the holes are cut out to close to the edges, a bunch of use just drilled some holes a little further in and they are holding up fine now. drill that new hole out before yours cracks like this one did on one of the other guys. Soaking the horn with thin CA a drying it first (before drilling) really helps create extra strength on it as well.

xray328
03-19-2006, 03:58 PM
Hey, looks really good.

My big question though is how much weight did that add?

I plan on using a Esskay 400 which is good for 16oz birds and I know I'll be at almost twice that loaded with the camera. Obviously I don't need aerobatics so I think it'll be fine for 32oz or so. I just wasn't sure how much more the glass adds.

Do you feel that it really made a big difference in durability?