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Mongo40
02-25-2010, 02:21 AM
Ok, I finished putting together my DVII and now I need to put my Dr1 together, I used the suggested Rimfire in my D7 an I'm not real comfortable with it, ran the throttle up to full speed and it made a funning grinding noise then shut off, pulled back on the throttle and it started running again, did this twice, doesn't seem to like full throttle. So I'd like some recommendations on a replacement motor for the Dr1 don't want to have to do a lot of modding, fabing a different motor mount to match up with different bolt pattern is no problem, any suggestions?? May end up switching the rimfire out of my 7 also.

degreen60
02-25-2010, 04:04 PM
Ok, I finished putting together my DVII and now I need to put my Dr1 together, I used the suggested Rimfire in my D7 an I'm not real comfortable with it, ran the throttle up to full speed and it made a funning grinding noise then shut off, pulled back on the throttle and it started running again, did this twice, doesn't seem to like full throttle. So I'd like some recommendations on a replacement motor for the Dr1 don't want to have to do a lot of modding, fabing a different motor mount to match up with different bolt pattern is no problem, any suggestions?? May end up switching the rimfire out of my 7 also.

If you can check the amps(or watts) and see if it is an overload on either the motor, ESC, or battery. If you can not check amps then install a smaller prop and see it the motor will run WOT, if it does the problem is probably an overload. Remember if you have a 900ma 10c battery and the setup you are using needs 10amps at WOT the battery is not big enough, it is only 9amps.

dbcisco
02-25-2010, 05:44 PM
Their recommended battery (since you seem to have gone with the rest of their recommendations) is "1000mAh, LiPo, 11.1V, 25C"

Mongo40
02-25-2010, 06:31 PM
Actually the recommended battery is a 11.1v 1250 mah, I've read here an on RCGroups of guys using up to 2100mah, I think the most recommended battery I saw was a TP 2000, I've got an amp tester coming from headsuprc so I'll check it with that an see what my problem is. I'll also try the small prop to see. Thanks I knew you guys would have some ideals.

degreen60
02-25-2010, 08:47 PM
Watch the c of the battery. That times the mah tells you max amps that the battery can safely supply.

dbcisco
02-25-2010, 09:32 PM
I got the info from the electrifly site here (http://www.electrifly.com/largeelectrics/gpma1142.html)

They recomend this battery: GPMP0500 (http://www.electrifly.com/batteries/batteries-lipo.html) (1000 LiPo 11.1V 25C)

Mongo40
02-25-2010, 10:22 PM
I believe you DB I've not been to their site, was just going with what the instruction manual that came with the plane said and what was recommended on the build log on rcgroups site.

dbcisco
02-25-2010, 11:13 PM
Thanks. I wasn't sure if I was going blind or crazy. :D

Airhead
02-26-2010, 01:23 AM
Thanks. I wasn't sure if I was going blind or crazy. :D
i am both......;)

Mongo40
02-26-2010, 04:27 AM
Well when I get my watt/amp tester from headsup I'll figure it out, I'm hoping it was the battery I was using was just to hot for it and the esc was shutting it off. I'm not going to fly it for awhile anyway, I got to other planes that are supposed to be a little easier to fly that I want to master first, its to pretty a plane to crash, its hanging from the ceiling in my classroom with the rest of my birds, my students watched me build it an think its way cool, some of them are really interested in the RC planes, might have some young converts before its over.

degreen60
02-26-2010, 05:01 AM
I'm not going to fly it for awhile anyway, I got to other planes that are supposed to be a little easier to fly that I want to master first, its to pretty a plane to crash, its hanging from the ceiling in my classroom with the rest of my birds, my students watched me build it an think its way cool, some of them are really interested in the RC planes, might have some young converts before its over.

If you do not know how to fly get a trainer first. The one I learned to fly on and now teach others to fly with is a GWS SS-F(looks like a Fokker EIII). Another good one is the GWS Pica Cub. I think the Beaver is suppost to be an easy plane to fly too. For my second plane I used a GWS Tiger Moth. It is a little harder to fly than the SS-F.

Mongo40
02-26-2010, 05:59 AM
I've got a mini-telemaster I'm playing with, when I'm real comfortable with it I've got Eflight P47 thats supposed to be easy to fly, when I'm doing good with them I might give the fokker a try, we'll see, I'm in no hurry to crash it.

Percyflyer
02-28-2010, 03:23 PM
The motor problems sounds more like a missing phase on the motor. Check to make sure you don't have a broken wire, or a cold solder joint on one of the bullet connectors. If you are using the adapters they tell you use, make sure they are tight on both sides.

dbcisco
02-28-2010, 03:51 PM
The programming on the ESC may be wrong. Sometimes the timing needs to be changed (low, medium, high).

AndyL
03-09-2010, 08:54 PM
Hey Mongo, This is how I mounted my motor on my electrifly Spad. I just used the electrifly mount and filed a 1-2 mm divot across from the bottom hole. Then you can mount a normal motor. I used a Turnigy 28-30 1050 kv from hobbycity. It works fine.

Mongo40
03-10-2010, 01:14 AM
Looks like there is only one screw holding the motor one??

79CJ
03-10-2010, 12:59 PM
Mongo - For my D.VII, I used a motor from Hobbyking, it has a standard 4 hole mounting bracket instead of 3 holes like the rimfire. I just traced both mounting brackets over eachother on a piece of ply, then drilled the 4 motor mount holes and the 3 holes to mount it to the firewall. I also didn't like the way the motor mounted away from the firewall with the long bolts and spacers, so I mounted it directly to the firewall. I ended up having to put the mount on the motor, then place the motor through the firewall from the backside and fasten it from the back to get the correct spacing. It was fairly easy, but access is limited because it is more difficult to get to from inside the fuse. I don't know what space is like inside the fuse of the Dr.I, it may be more or less.

Mongo40
03-10-2010, 03:08 PM
Thats kind of what I was thinking 79CJ, I've made motormounts like that before, works good. Thanks

79CJ
03-10-2010, 03:38 PM
I haven't flown it yet. but I've ran it up to full throttle tests a couple of times with no ill effects or vibration.

AndyL
03-10-2010, 10:17 PM
Looks like there is only one screw holding the motor one??

Mongo, Actually it's 2 screws holding the motor. It runs up fine with no vibration. Takes about a minute to do the modification. Of course it wouldn't take long to drill extra holes either if you prefer that route.

- Andy

Mongo40
03-11-2010, 03:46 AM
Interesting chain of events today in class, kids got a kick out of it, I've talked in my earlier post about my rimfire sounding funny in my DVII when I ran the throttle up to full, well I had it down today and was going to check it with my watt meter, turned on the radio, hooked everything up and plane didn't do anything, no beeping or nothing, unhooked it then plugged it back in and got a couple of beeps and the ailerons moved and stayed in there position, didn't go back to neutral. So removed the battery, unhooked the wattmeter then just plugged my battery back in and got a couple of beeps, ailerons really opened up and stuck then my motor started running then locked up and started smoking like it was on fire, smoke was just rolling out of the cowl, throttle on the radio was off and no it wasn't reversed as I've worked the plane a few time before, motor is real hard to turn by hand now, I'm sure its toasted, just hope my esc is ok, not sure how to check it without frying something else, very fustrated at this point. rimfire was brand new, took it out of its package to put in this plane, there is Fifty bucks pissed down the drain.

brutus251
03-11-2010, 07:35 PM
Mongo,if Im not mistaken the RimFire motor has a warranty period. Contact them to see about it. In the mean time get a 28/30/950 from HeadsUp rc, I have all the WW1 stuff from Electrifly and use the 28/30 from HeadsUp in just about all of them.Plenty of power and less than half the price of the RimFire,plus only $2 for shipping.It sucks when something like that happens. B

Mongo40
03-11-2010, 07:44 PM
I've had that Rimfire for about two years, but it was still in package, I'll see what I can do about getting it replaced. I've had good luck with all the motors I've gotten from Jeff, I had purchased the rimfire before I knew about Headsup. Thanks

brutus251
03-11-2010, 07:47 PM
Same thing here,my first two have the RimFire all the others are from Jeff. Eventually youll get that bad boy flying! B

Mongo40
03-13-2010, 03:34 PM
brutus, I looked on Jeffs site and can't find the 28/30/950 you were talking about, also thats the size/name of the rimfire I have on, there is a couple of 2830s with different KVs, which motor was it exactly that your referring to.
Chris

brutus251
03-13-2010, 08:53 PM
Hi Chris,sorry about that,its the 28/30/09 motor. I have them in my SE 5A,DV11,N11 and they have plenty of power. Brutus

cobra 16
03-14-2010, 05:51 AM
Hey Mongo: Like Andy I have used the tungy 28/30 1050 kv from Hobby City on two of these planes and one SE5 kit from Aerodrome RC. Never had any problems. Tried the Rim Fire on a Spad and it cooked like yours did right out of the bag.

Have you beefed up the motor mount on the DR1? I have heard they may be a little on the weak side

Mongo40
03-15-2010, 10:25 PM
I will beef it up, haven't started building it yet, was trying to get my D7 straight first plus I'm building a Kyosho FW190 50 right now. Will start on the Dr1 when I finish with it.