View Full Version : Kyosho Soarus 1600
03-28-2006, 07:31 AM
I have a Kyosho Soarus 1600 which I fitted with a small brushless motor. Unfortunately, I have found that the fuz in front of the wing now has cracks along the fus.
Does anyone else have this model?
Does anyone else have this problem?
By the way, it is an excellent model apart from this problem.
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03-28-2006, 09:19 PM
I dont have the Soarus but have a friend who does. The fuselage is fairly thin on these and since you have a brushless in it I assume you might be pulling some G's during certain manuvers. My Omei another thin fuse sailplane developed similar cracks to what you mention. I simply took some very light waight fiberglass cloth and glassed inside the fuse. I just used epoxy thinned out for the resin.:)
03-28-2006, 11:04 PM
As long as we are talking fiberglass fuses, any idea on how to get to the point just prior to the tail section (fuse top) with glass and epoxy? It is approximately 26 inches from cockpit to the cracked section.
The plane hasn't flow yet, I can imagine what may happen...:eek:
03-29-2006, 07:23 AM
Thanks for your comments.
The glider goes up like a home-sick Angel and at less than 10 amps.
Your suggested repair is what I think that I will have to do. Trouble is, there isd already some fiberglass in the inside of the faz. I will just have to build it up some more.
Do you know if your friend did anything outside the fuz as well as inside?
Catchinathermal. The only thing that I could suggest is that if there is a straight taper in the rear of the fuz, maybe it is be possible to use some kind of pre-shaped plug for the repair.
03-29-2006, 02:22 PM
If you can reach inside sand the area you are going to glass as smooth as possible, do not go through the fuse, then wipe with alcohol before glassing it. Just go easy and slow with the new glass as it will try to wrinkle etc. but it will lay down with a light touch. If you use epoxy instead of regular fiberglass resin be sure to use 30 min. and thin some with alcohol. Be patient ;) .
Sounds like you busted the tail off at the narrowest part of the fuse :mad: . Generally you can not get inside there to do anything so outside repair is neccesary. First a jagged or splintered type break is bettter than a clean one as load will be distributed better over the repaired area but either way you will need to fix it, I jus have more confidense in the former hanging together:rolleyes: . Fit it back together carefully lineing everything up, then I usually dribble a little thin CA to hold things in place. Then carefully and I do mean carefully lightly sand the outside of the fuse by the break as smooth as possibel, and wipe clean with alcohol. Then lay on your material, I would suggest Carbon fiber cloth or Kevlar if you can get some. If not then glass will be fine. If you want it to look good then use the actual glass resin, I think Sig makes some or just get some from your hardware store. You can always sand it and paint it afterwards if looks are a concern. I strongly suggest glassing at least 3" from both side of the break since this part of the fuse takes all the forces tha your empanage can deliver. I never reall trust fixing this type of break but then I have seen some hold up for years with the plane meeting it's by some totally unrelated event :D . So no guarantees it's up to you.
03-30-2006, 01:12 AM
No, the fuse isn't broken, only cracked on top of the fuse just before the tail.
03-30-2006, 02:33 AM
Great :rolleyes: glad it's not completely broken. I would still repair by wrap on outside as described although you may only need about an inch each way. You didnt mention it but I assume your fuse is fiberglass? just be sure to rough up the outside gelcoat (smooth surface) before laying new glass and resin. By the way you will not need much resing just enough to wet the glass fiber, you may or may not wish to do a second coat. Some people even squegee off the resin to keep the coats thin but that may be hard to do on a fuse it is generally done on flatter surfaces like wings. I wont even mention bagging :D . Anyway go for it if your careful you should get good results and even better experiance at repairing the many fuselages you will be fixing in the future :eek: .
03-30-2006, 10:20 AM
I've glasses several wing centers, with good results so I'll try to do a round surface trying to keep the drizzle down to a minimum. Then I'm going to paint it to look like a bandaid! Kind of sadistic wouldn't you say! The last fiber glass fuse I tried was a Soarus (80's), it ended up being a hover craft, I figured it was going to meet the ground that fast, I would float it instead!
04-01-2006, 03:53 AM
Be sure to get the very light weight glass cloth not the heavy boat stuff. If you use the light stuff it should come out pretty nice looking.
07-06-2007, 11:13 AM
FYI: Just spotted a spec on the kyosho website for a kit listed as No. 10103, Soarus 1600 BLS Aileron Version - they are releasing an updated version fitted with a factory brushless motor and updated wing design.
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