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Jason T
04-02-2006, 01:32 AM
Okay. I decided I wanted a larger airframe for a thermal machine and I chose the Bingo (Pulsar 2.5m). I bought it from http://www.soaringusa.com (http://www.soaringusa.com/cart/cart.php) Its known at the Bingo on his site but I don't think it is listed there yet.

Here are a few pics so far of the model.

Jason T
04-02-2006, 01:33 AM
more pics...

Jason T
04-02-2006, 01:34 AM
...

Sky Sharkster
04-02-2006, 03:40 AM
Hey, Jason-Nice glider! Love that composite construction. What's it weigh, 5 or 6 ounces?!! What motor are you going to use? Better tie it down when you're not flying!
Ron

Jason T
04-02-2006, 02:24 PM
Ron,

I am going to post all the component weights later today. The airframe weight is about 22 oz but its 2.5m.

Jason

Jason T
04-02-2006, 06:02 PM
Actually, the airframe with all the components weighs 20.6 oz.
The setup I plan to use is a Mega 16/25/2 with Maxon 4.4:1 gearbox, 7 or 8 GP2000 cells for the main pack and 4 cells of either GP400 or 700mah for the rx pack, CC45 esc and qty 6 Dymond D-60 servos.

tone
04-03-2006, 09:12 PM
Sweet Jason, can't wait to see how she goes up!

Jason T
04-04-2006, 03:59 AM
Tony,

Me either and hopefully soon.

Jason T
04-04-2006, 04:12 AM
Here are some build pics of what I have done so far.

I started routing the servo cables in the center and wing panels.

First, I put a piece of packing tape that completely covered the servo bay and then took a hobby knife and cutout the covering over the servo bay. The tape just keeps the covering from tearing.

The first pic shows how I routed the cable with a piece of pushrod. I basically taped the cable to the pushrod and inserted to the servo bay.

The second pic shows the servo glued to the back of the spar and to the side of the servo bay. I first cut the tabs off the servos and then put a piece of heatshrink over them for easy removal later if necessary. Then I used goop to glue in the servo.

The third pic is of the wing center panel with the cables routed. This was tricky because the predrilled holes in the ribs were a little small for the heavier gage wire I used for my servo extensions. If I had to do it again I would use a thinner gage wire. I used the same technique by using pushrods to pull and push the cables through the wing.

Masterpiece
04-04-2006, 12:23 PM
OK Jason T, What are you trying to do???? Make me envious???? :( You have done it :p .

Very nice plane. I have had my eye on this plane for a while now and I am glad somebody is doing a build thread.

I look forward to keeping an eye on this thread.

Cheers
Glen

Mike Parsons
04-04-2006, 01:35 PM
Sweet! Are you going to use this in Contest @ SEFF?

Jason T
04-04-2006, 05:31 PM
Glen, sorry. :) I have been eyeing it for a while also.

Mike, yes, I do plan to have it ready for the SEFF LMR contest. Just running out of time with everything else going on.

Jason T
04-07-2006, 03:49 AM
I was able to get a little more building done tonight but mainly the wing wiring harness.

I trimmed all the servo extension cables and soldered them to an MPI 6 pin connector.

For the flap servos I offset the control arm since the I will only use them in one direction.

This is the rx side of the MPI connector. You can see all the leads ready to plug into the rx. For the 6 pin connector I joined all the red wires and all the black wires and soldered them to the outside pins. Then the 4 center pins get the individual servo signal wires.

I test fit the wing to the center panel and you can see how the servo connectors slid into the wing. I did not push the wing fully together in the pic.

Jason T
04-07-2006, 03:50 AM
Then I fit the whole wing togther to test the wiring harness. Everything worked. http://static.rcgroups.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif

Jason T
04-11-2006, 03:10 AM
Some more build pics.

Pic1: The bottom linkage is the stock linkage and hardware. I decided to use a z-bend on the servo side so I made the top linkage from hardware I already had.

Pic2: Showing control horn screwed into the socket and an uncut control horn socket. I used the Johnson Wax on the threads of the control horn when I epoxied the socket in with 5-minute epoxy to prevent the epoxy from getting on the threads.

Pic3: Showing the linkage complete and it is slop free.

Pic4: Wing with the supplier carbon fiber servo cover taped in place.

RvD
04-13-2006, 06:01 AM
I am also building the same glider and am a little further along than Jason, but have been at it a little longer. I am using Hitec HS-125MG in the wings and Cirrus 4gram micros for the tail - they are only 7mm wide and should fit nicely. The motor is a Mega 22/30/3 driving a 12x6.5 prop. Battery a 4000 3S Lipo pack. Mounting the motor is tricky as the nose is long and narrow.

RvD
04-21-2006, 06:11 AM
I was going to use the Cirrus 4g servos in the tail, but they turned out be absolute junk. Both had jitter and no torque to speak of. Switched to the Hitec HS50. They are a little too high, so had so fabricate a little box around them to support the cover supplied with the kit. Covered the servo bay and the edges of the little box with carbon fiber printed Oracover which really looks good and nearly matches the carbon fiber servo covers and tail boom. Pics 1, 2 and 3

Pic 4 shows the nose with prop and spinner. The inside of the firewall was not flush with the front due to some carbon fiber build up, so had to add a couple of small washers on two of the mounting screws so the motor was true to the front of the firewall. Now there is an even gap all around between the firewall and prop mount.

Pic 5 shows the single harness made for the servos between the wing and receiver. I used a 2x6 connector similar to the three pin servo connectors.

RvD
04-21-2006, 06:13 AM
Pics 6 and 7 show the connector for the wing tips. The T means top there is also a B on the other side which helps with polarity when assembling the wing. The wing tip connector is glued as shown and makes it easier to assemble.

Pic 8 shows the Hitec HS125 in the wing tip servo bay. I will have modify the servo covers as with the offset of the HS125 servo actuator, the covers are not wide enough to cover the entire servo bay.

Masterpiece
04-21-2006, 11:52 AM
I was going to use the Cirrus 4g servos in the tail, but they turned out be absolute junk. Both had jitter and no torque to speak of. Switched to the Hitec HS50.

I wouldn't have even tried using the HS50's (0.7kg/cm torque is still too light for the ruddervators). Better than the HS50 and still about the same size is the HS55's or the HS56's. Much better torque. I don't know about the Cirrus 4g's but if they are that light then they are really only purposeful in, indoors or parkfliers (same for the HS50's)

Jason T
04-21-2006, 12:03 PM
RvD,

Looking good. I have made a little more progress on mine and I will post pics this weekend. I have all the wing panels complete. Now I will start on the fuse and servo extenders for the v-tails.

Can you post some pics of how you routed your v-tail wires out the back of the tailboom? Also, what power system are you using?

RvD
04-23-2006, 08:18 AM
Jason,
I opened up the hole for the sevo leads to a rectangluar slot so the tail servo connectors could fit into the tail boom.

I have two servo extensions and removed the cover protecting the male pins. There is enough room in the two big gaps between by the tail mounting tubes for each one to allow a servo connector to pass by.
It does require the connectors to be aligned but I have had no problems getting them in and out.

I will be using a Phoenix 80 ESC. Have not decide in RX pack yet, but will possibly use 4 x AAA NiMH

Richard

Jason T
04-23-2006, 12:31 PM
Richard,

Thanks for the pics. I did something similar. I will post pics tonight.

I finished mine yesterday and have the tx programmed. I just need to adust the linkages on the ailerons and flaps. I plan to maiden it today. I will get pics at the field and video.

Jason

Jason T
04-24-2006, 03:06 AM
Okay. I finished the Bingo (Pulsar 2.5) today. I also maidened it but it was very windy and only flew it once because the winds were very turbulent at the field so I did not get a good feel for it. But I think it is going to be really awesome! http://static.rcgroups.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif Anyway, few more build pics.

My power system changed from what I was originally going to use. I was going to use a Mega 16/25/2 with a 4.4:1 maxon gearbox. However, the adapter I was going to use for the gearbox on the mega was not the correct one. So I just used my Aveox 27/26/1.5 for now. However, I can save close to 1.5oz if a get an adapter plate to use the Mega so I am still probably going to try that.

I decided to start with an 8 cell pack of 1950 FAUPs that I made from an old 10 cell pack. With the battery hot off the charger (130F) and a Graupner 14x9.5 prop the setup pulled 41amps at about 350watts. It was climbing pretty well at about 60 degrees but was getting really bounced around with the wind. I am hoping next weekend to get a better flight.

The pics below: the first shows the aileron servo glued in with goop. I put heat shrink on it first so if I ever have to remove the servo I just cut through the heat shrink then removing the goop is much easier.

The second pic is showing the carbon servo covers that come with the kit.

Third pic is the flap servo installed same as the aileron servo method.

The fourth pic is how I routed the v-tail servo extensions so when the v-tail slides onto the tailboom you plug it in and the connectors slip into the v-tail.

Jason T
04-24-2006, 03:08 AM
These pics show the v-tail servo installation. The only thing I did different from the instructions was to install the v-tail servos on the bottom of the v-tails instead of the top. This was for cosmetic purposes only.:)

RvD
04-24-2006, 08:48 PM
Jason, glad to hear all went well... what throws/mixing did you use?
RvD

Jason T
04-25-2006, 03:31 AM
I will have to measure the throws but I need to adjust my linkages first. Here is a link to the instructions that came with mine which gives the recommended throws for reference. http://atltaylor.com/files/Bingo-instructions-updated.pdf

So far the only mixing I am using is CROW, camber and elevator compensation for the CROW for landing. I may add some others as I get it dialed in.

Greywing
01-10-2008, 03:34 AM
Hello Jason,

By doing a google search for Pulsar sailplanes, I came across the link to your build thread on wattflyer for the Pulsar 2.5. This caught my attention even though it was written a while ago because I have recently acquired a Pulsar 2005 that incorporates most of the same construction techniques as in your 2.5 and I felt it would be instructive to study your experience. I have a couple of questions that should result from your experience that I hope you wouldn't mind answering.

First, though, thanks for taking the time and effort to record your experience in this process. It really provides useful information to others in this hobby.

Regarding your use of the Dymond D60 servos which I have been eyeing as a great servo spec-wise given their size, price and torque rating, what is your opinion of these units? Are you happy with their performance in your application?

Are you pleased with the overall performance of this bird?

Fred_L
08-11-2008, 06:49 AM
Jason,
I have just purchased a Bingo 2.5m from SUSA. However it came with no instructions at all. The link to the instructions in your post two up is no longer working. Do you know of another site where the build instrcutions might be available?
I will be using mine in electric glider competition with a Neu motor.
Looking at the parts I think it is quite intuitive how to put it all together. However securely fixing the nose cone to the main fuselage might be an untrodden area for me. And this area will get stressed on the climbs and the landings.
Regards
F

Wake_T
11-19-2008, 12:58 AM
Hi Fred, I have the link, but can only paste this after 3 posts

Wake_T
11-19-2008, 12:59 AM
So this is 2

Wake_T
11-19-2008, 12:59 AM
And this is 3

Wake_T
11-19-2008, 01:01 AM
Hi Fred,


We bought here 2X Pulsar 2.5 too.
Instructions you can find at Espritmodel.

http://file.espritmodel.com/documents/bingo_install.html


Did you finish your bird allready?


Greetz,

Roland

Fred_L
11-19-2008, 04:22 AM
Roland,
Thanks for the link.
The instructions are fairly brief.
I find that the provided flap horns are so short I can't get anywhere near 90 degrees of defection for crow braking. So, I made my own horns. While these will permit nearly 90 degrees of down deflection, only time will tell whether they are robust enough.
I spoke to another Bingo owner here at a competition and he recomended that just two screws be used to hold the nose on. These screws should be on either side of the nose cone, just because it is easier to get to them when the aircraft is sitting on the ground. My Neu motor setup should provide about 4kg of static thrust so I hope this arrangement is strong enough.
The build is not finished yet. I hope to have it flying by the time we have the Christmas break and then I have some time to trim it and practice.
Fred

nathanthepilot
12-01-2008, 10:13 PM
Here are some build pics of what I have done so far.

I started routing the servo cables in the center and wing panels.

First, I put a piece of packing tape that completely covered the servo bay and then took a hobby knife and cutout the covering over the servo bay. The tape just keeps the covering from tearing.

The first pic shows how I routed the cable with a piece of pushrod. I basically taped the cable to the pushrod and inserted to the servo bay.

The second pic shows the servo glued to the back of the spar and to the side of the servo bay. I first cut the tabs off the servos and then put a piece of heatshrink over them for easy removal later if necessary. Then I used goop to glue in the servo.

The third pic is of the wing center panel with the cables routed. This was tricky because the predrilled holes in the ribs were a little small for the heavier gage wire I used for my servo extensions. If I had to do it again I would use a thinner gage wire. I used the same technique by using pushrods to pull and push the cables through the wing.

Looks great so far! Keep us posted with new pics!

320pilot
03-16-2009, 03:32 PM
These pics show the v-tail servo installation. The only thing I did different from the instructions was to install the v-tail servos on the bottom of the v-tails instead of the top. This was for cosmetic purposes only.:)

I'm building a Poly Pulsar 2008, and wondered how you fix the control horn to the control surface, on the V-tail of your Pulsar? Do you just epoxy it after cutting the oracover (surface mount) or should I notch the wood a bit, then epoxy it in place. The pictures you posted are very valuable for my first E-sailplane build.

I think I will mount my V-tail sevos underside of ruddervators, like Jason T did.

Thanks for pics

Wake_T
03-20-2009, 11:15 AM
I'm building a Poly Pulsar 2008, and wondered how you fix the control horn to the control surface, on the V-tail of your Pulsar? Do you just epoxy it after cutting the oracover (surface mount) or should I notch the wood a bit, then epoxy it in place. The pictures you posted are very valuable for my first E-sailplane build.

I think I will mount my V-tail sevos underside of ruddervators, like Jason T did.

Thanks for pics


Hi, Mr Airbuskie ;)


I have cut out a notch on the control surface wood, and glued the horn with epoxy in the notch against the carbon spar.
I have made a few pics, hope you can see it.

I have maidened my Pulsar 2.5 yesterday, and it flew like a charm.
It was Sunny 10C with a cold wind.
15 seconds of motor run resulted in 12 minutes gliding time.
Great plane!

320pilot
03-20-2009, 04:32 PM
Thanks for the pictures, Wake T
I am just starting to build my Poly Pulsar 2008, have the firewall modified for mounting the Hacker B20-15L motor and gearbox. Now it's time to cut open the V tail servo pockets to install the Diamond D-47 servos in the tail surfaces.

Set up the servos (V-tail and one HS65mg for flap) on a board, and have been programming Flap to Elevator mix, to control pitch down tendency when Flap selected. I have a DX-7 (Heli) Tx so programming is limited.

I will try and use a Dremel tool to cut the notches for the control horns. Then attach them with epoxy

Later today: Cut the notches for control horn in the V-tail by hand.
Should I trim control horn base until height of control arm is same as top of servo arm above tail surface (with servo arm vertical)?

I will post some pictures, might start a build thread.

320 pilot

Wake_T
03-21-2009, 02:06 AM
Hi,


I have the steel wire exaxt horizontal with the tailplane, so the hole of the servo horns are on the same hight as the the horns on the control surface.
I don't think that does matter much, but for the best resolution of your servo, it's better to choose the hole of the servo arm near the pivot point (center of the servo), and the hole on the servo as far outboard.
Then a large rotation of your servo gives a small deflection on your surface.
Since you dont need that much deflection, the farther the servo turns, the better resolution you get.
I think I change that on mine, because you see small steps, if I give a little input.

Btw are you flying the 320, and for which company?
I fly the 737 next gen.


Greetz,

Wake

Wake_T
03-21-2009, 02:15 AM
Oh and I use the JR X9303 transmitter in glider mode.
I have it all setup, with 2x 3 pos switches.
I control reflex, thermal, launch, cruise and land, with the flip of a switch.
With all seperate trim settings, its worth the investment.
I have a 9ch JR receiver with 2 remotes, and since the fuselage is carbon, I have put the remote receivers in the wing.
I have a dx 7 too, but I think you're better of with an acro program, then with the heli, imho.
Anyway, programming is a real @#!$# on this one, but when it works......., it's magnificent.
Maybe you can find some program tips here http://h1072147.hobbyshopnow.com/products/Article.asp?file=1459-ART.xml&pg=7

Good luck, I'm gonna catch some ZZZZZZZZ, it's 2.15 AM

320pilot
03-22-2009, 02:59 PM
Wake T,
thanks for the link for programming for JR9303 tx. I would love to have a Tx with those capabilities. making do with my Dx-7 (heli) tx for now.

Most of the time now, I am on a Pulsar 2m build thread at

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=989996&page=6

There are two or three of us building our Pulsars there now. You can see some of my pictures,

320 pilot
ps. you'll love the boeing. i had two years F/O on B-767 200 and 300 series

Jim Duda
09-02-2009, 09:05 PM
My 2008 Pulsar 2m came with the firewall pre-drilled with the centering hole only which was a PERFECT FIT for the Maxon 4:4.1 gearbox. Is the BINGO's firewall drilled at all?

If it is built as well as the aileron 2008 Pulsar I will probably get one...

Motor choice looks like a Hacker B40-10S, a Jeti SPIN 66 ESC spinning a 13X8 Aeronaut prop.

rickrpm
10-01-2009, 04:50 AM
Thanks all for the pictures, very helpful, just started building my bingo/pulsar

I have been intensely wondering for the past three weeks... How on earth is the nose cone (with motor) supposed to be attached to the fuselage for flight??? Tape it?screw it? what are the suggestions? Can anyone post some pictures of what you have done?

????

320pilot
10-01-2009, 03:28 PM
Rick,
If it's like the 2m Poly Pulsar 2008, I have (well i've had a few::o) the forward half of the fusleage (first pic) slides into the rear fuselage tube. Note in the second picture the small hole in the bottom of the fuselage. A screw inserted here, holds the two halves of the fuselage together.
You should find a small sheet metal screw in the parts bag.

320 pilot

Jim Duda
10-03-2009, 01:54 AM
Greetings Rick -
I had the same question and got this response on another forum from a nice gentleman in the U.K. His forum name is DACH. I hope he doesn't mind me posting this:

Hi Jim,

Feel free to use the 'pin method'.

The pins are just ordinary 'Drawing pins' as we call them in the UK - not sure if you guys call them something different in the US. The are use to fasten drawings to drawing boards or to pin notices on notice boards. I remove the sharp point though and shorten them so that they do not protrude into the fuselage otherwise there is just a small chance of them snagging on something.

I prefer to apply tape all the way round the fuselage because otherwise there will be slight movement between the two parts due to the small difference in the pin diameter compared with the pin hole diameter.

One advantage of this method is NO TOOLS are required. Here are the pics he graciously sent me.

rickrpm
10-04-2009, 04:41 AM
Thanks a lot, I like that "pin method" I'm thinking that is what I will use, that is the same fuselage I have. :)

best regards,


Greetings Rick -
I had the same question and got this response on another forum from a nice gentleman in the U.K. His forum name is DACH. I hope he doesn't mind me posting this:

Hi Jim,

Feel free to use the 'pin method'.

The pins are just ordinary 'Drawing pins' as we call them in the UK - not sure if you guys call them something different in the US. The are use to fasten drawings to drawing boards or to pin notices on notice boards. I remove the sharp point though and shorten them so that they do not protrude into the fuselage otherwise there is just a small chance of them snagging on something.

I prefer to apply tape all the way round the fuselage because otherwise there will be slight movement between the two parts due to the small difference in the pin diameter compared with the pin hole diameter.

One advantage of this method is NO TOOLS are required. Here are the pics he graciously sent me.

Jim Duda
10-07-2009, 03:43 PM
I like the idea of not having to use any tools to separate the nose cone from the pod but I don't like having to tape-untape-tape, etc. after every flight so this method works fine for me. It does require a 5/64 hex driver however.

It definitely is rock solid and takes less than a minute to assemble/unassemble.