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View Full Version : My P-47 Finallly Maidened Today!


Grasshopper
05-14-2006, 08:13 PM
Finally!!! After waiting two weeks for good weather, I got to maiden my P-47 this morning. I took a friend to launch it for me this time. When I maidened my PZ P-51, I launched it myself and was a little nervous. I didn't want to take any chances with this one. I was still nervous because he doesn't fly and has never launched one before. Well, it went absolutely perfect! He did a great job launching and it went out straight as an arrow. After it climbed up a little bit, I checked the trim and the only thing I had to change was 2 clicks of up elevator on my DX-6. (no glitches what so ever with the Spektrum either). It flew flawlessly. I ran one pack through it to get used to the controls, landed, changed packs and launched it myself. Again, straight as a string. I changed the aileron rates to high , did a few loops, several rolls and flew it inverted two laps around the field. Wow! what differnece this one is compared to the P-51. No comparison! It was very responsive, doesn't want to climb all the time and was very easy to land. I absolutely love it.

I can say again, that as with my P-51, it would not have been as easy if it weren't for all the help I've gotten from this forum. Thanks for all the great input I received while putting it together! I can't wait to get it out again. It was an absolute dream to fly. He took some photos for me but I'm not sure I can post them since the camera was set on 8 megapixels. I'll try to resize and post.

OK, I do have one problem. I'm not currently building anything now and would love to start a twin engine. I'm thinking either a P-38 or B-25. My wife will probably kill me if one of those shows up though. Since they're all hanging on my shop wall, she can easily see when a new one shows up.

And the addiction continues.

Grasshopper
05-14-2006, 08:17 PM
Here's a couple of pix of My E-Flight P-47 on it's maiden this morning.

zappedalaskan
05-14-2006, 08:51 PM
That looks very nice Grasshopper. I think they have a real winner with the P-47 everyone seems to like it a lot and the detail is great. I hope it brings you many happy flights :)
Here is an EP B-25 Mitchell four foot wing span..
http://www.hobby-lobby.com/images/fsk033.jpg

http://www.hobby-lobby.com/b-25.htm
Very nice detail. It would look great sitting next to your P-47 and P-51 :)
Take care,
Jay

Grasshopper
05-14-2006, 08:56 PM
Oh don't do that to me! If you only knew how many times I've watched the Hobby Lobby video of that plane and their P-38. I'm not sure how it would look with all my other planes, clothes, tools and 1/2 of all my other stuff out in the street when she saw it.

Doppelganger
05-14-2006, 09:19 PM
Thats pretty funny!:)

Steve

firemanbill
05-14-2006, 09:27 PM
Nice Job GH!:D Glad to hear you finally got it out. It is so cool to hear about maiden flights... I know it's only typed text but I can hear the excitement and joy of every word you typed!

Beautiful pics too! What kind of camera do you have?

Now... about that B-25...:eek: :D

Bill

Grasshopper
05-14-2006, 10:19 PM
Thanks Bill,

I have a Canon 20D. I had my Canon L series 70-200mm f4 zoom on it. I'm going nuts here wanting to get out and fly again. I only got to run 2 packs through it and the wind started coming back. I did get to let my buddy fly my J3 a couple of times this morning though. I think I'll have him reeled in shortly. When I picked him up this morning he proudly brought his new Aero Ace out to the car with him.

It's only a matter of time now. Oh .....and money of course.

firemanbill
05-14-2006, 10:41 PM
I know what you mean this morning was beautiful when we went to church, by the time we got out and done with dinner it was clouding up and getting windy. We now have tornado warnings out so needless to say it's been too windy all afternoon. I am chomping at the bit to get back out again. All the packs are charged up and I'm ready to go:(

Nice quality photos on that canon. I really need to invest in a good camera.

Grasshopper
05-14-2006, 10:44 PM
I love my Canon. Unfortunately, photography is my other expensive and addictive hobby. Speaking of having your batteries charged and ready to go, Is it best to leave Lipos discharged after flying until you go again, or charge them back up when you get home? How long will they hold their charge?

Twmaster
05-14-2006, 11:18 PM
Lipos are safe to leave charged. They loose very little voltage sitting idle.

firemanbill
05-14-2006, 11:19 PM
lipos hold a charge really well. I usually charge them up when I get home. If it's been a few days before I get back out I may top them off but usually I just check the voltage to be safe and stick 'em in a plane

I charge them right away mainly so that if I run one all the way down to cutoff I don't want it to drain any further sitting on the bench and drop below the minimum voltage

I have an ammo box that I have wrapped in some old turnout coat material that was being thrown out that I store mine in... just in case...

alienx
05-14-2006, 11:28 PM
Grasshopper,

Great job! I am happy to say (for everyone that owns one), I told you so!! What a great plane huh!?

I've been working on mine all day (Mom is in Florida!). Basically just took off the wheels and patched the mount holes, painted all the spots that tape had pulled the paint off of, and sprayed about 3 coats of Polycrylic on everything that is important!

Nice pics too. That IS exactly what it looks like in the air ...if you know what I mean.

Andy

Grasshopper
05-14-2006, 11:36 PM
Thanks Bill and Mike,

I'll charge them up and store them. I also keep them in an ammo box, just in case.

Andy, you were absolutely correct! What a great flyer! Even the guy who went with me couldn't get over how smooth it flew and how good it looked in the air. Warbirds Rule!

Tom

Doppelganger
05-14-2006, 11:41 PM
All this talk of the P-47 makes me want to run out to my garage and fix my plane!

Steve

Grasshopper
05-14-2006, 11:49 PM
DO IT Steve!

Doppelganger
05-14-2006, 11:54 PM
DO IT Steve!

I just realized I can't! I need balsa. No gots balsa. Bad Steve. BAD!!:mad:

Stupid

Twmaster
05-14-2006, 11:55 PM
No Balsa????

Oh. My.

Mike stares at Steve in utter disbelief!

:D

firemanbill
05-15-2006, 12:23 AM
I didn't know you could use the words "no" and "Balsa" in a sentence together!:eek:

Sky Sharkster
05-15-2006, 12:31 AM
Hey, Tom, Great to hear you got the first flights in OK. I think it helped that you took the time to research the plane, motor, batteries,etc. It takes a load off your mind if at least some of the unknowns are confirmed by others.
Nice flight shots, too.
There's a long thread here on the built-up P-38 by Raidentech, it's less expensive than the H/L version. Now when you add in a couple of AXI's , ESC's, and so on, there might be a little resistance on the home front!

Steve, This condition of "No Balsa", it seems so...strange. Can you explain the symptoms?
Ron

Grasshopper
05-15-2006, 02:14 AM
Thanks for the kind words Ron. It was a big help to research it first. Speaking of research, we need to move on to something more serious that needs looking into..WHAT? NO BALSA? HOW CAN THAT HAPPEN?

All my planes are made of foam and I still have balsa. I don't even need it and I still buy it when I go into a hobby shop.

Steve, you really need to seek professional help.

Tom

Doppelganger
05-15-2006, 02:27 AM
My name is Steve Franklin, and I'm a Balsaholic.:o You guys are meanies!:) Technically I have some balsa. Just very thin. Not what I need for a firewall. So see, I'm not as bad off as you think I am. Although I'm still very ashamed.:(

Steve

Grasshopper
05-15-2006, 02:29 AM
Very good Steve. The first step to recovery is admitting you have a problem.

redgiki
05-15-2006, 02:55 AM
Here's a couple of pix of My E-Flight P-47 on it's maiden this morning.

Wow. For the record, my beat-up P-47 doesn't look anywhere near as nice as yours. No wing panels, lots of white foam scuff marks showing through. Yours is still beatiful!

Let's compare photos when you have a hundred flights on her :)

Grasshopper
05-15-2006, 03:09 AM
Thanks Red. Let's just hope I get a hundred flights on her. I'm going to have a real problem with this stuff. I've been told I'm a bit anal and a perfectionist so it really bothers me to see scratches and dings on my planes. Guess I better start learning to cope with it huh?

Doppelganger
05-15-2006, 04:26 AM
Thanks Red. Let's just hope I get a hundred flights on her. I'm going to have a real problem with this stuff. I've been told I'm a bit anal and a perfectionist so it really bothers me to see scratches and dings on my planes. Guess I better start learning to cope with it huh?

Nothing some Minwax can't cure. A couple of coats should do ya fine.

Steve

Grasshopper
09-24-2006, 03:28 AM
I finally got my replacement CC Phoenix 25 from Castle and got the P-47 out this morning. She hasn't flown for almost 3 months. First two flights went great. I had forgotten how much fun that plane is to fly.

The third flight was a different story. I came around the corner running down the field at WOT when something went all weird. All of the sudden the left lower wing panel that covers the servo wires came loose. It didn't fall off.....Nooooooo......it had to stay on but was sticking straight down from the wing like a big old flap down at 90 degrees. It immediately put the plane into a hard roll and banked it straight at us. It did two complete rolls and the only way I could control it at all was to give it full opposite aileron and killed the throttle. All this while telling everyone to take cover!

It was actually killing the throttle that brought it somewhat under control. When it slowed down, the panel raised back up but was still making me hold hard opposite aileron. I got it banked back around pointing out to the field, and was able to ditch it into the grass. It sat down pretty hard but didn't damage anything.

The weirdest part of it all was that once it started to roll over and point right at 6 of us (including two children) all I could think of was to get it away from the people. Just goes to show you how things can go bad in a hurry. I'm just glad no one was hurt.

Sky Sharkster
09-24-2006, 03:33 AM
Wow, Tom, sounds like you did a great job avoiding the people and still landing in one piece. Hope I can think that fast (and clearly) when it's my turn!
Ron

Grasshopper
09-24-2006, 03:39 AM
Thanks Ron but I think luck and someone watching over me probably had a little more to do with it. It's really amazing what all goes through your head with a Park 450 screaming straight at you completely out of control.

Glacier Girl
09-25-2006, 02:37 PM
Ah Grashopper, amazing when the mind shuts down and instincts take over. The ever popular "Pucker Factor".:eek:

Glad it worked out for you. Good skills to save the bird and the crowd. :D

redgiki
09-25-2006, 08:20 PM
This is the reason I've advocated, since February when I bought my E-Flite P-47D, that everybody ditch the wing panels. They are unnecessary weight, and dangerous because they tend to come off in flight and get hung up on the landing gear.

In reality, their fragility and tendency to rip off in flight, subjecting the plane to nearly-uncontrollable roll forces, could be cause for a recall. After my third experience with this phenomenon, I took mine off and haven't missed it since.

But I fly my P-47D way too much. It's so beat up now, it's getting unrecognizable. Hundreds of flights, with gear on and off. I need to start writing down all my flights so instead of "hundreds" I can look at my flight log and tell you exactly how many hundreds something's had...

Might be time to look for the next airframe, and hang the P-47 to the ceiling in a place of honor as my first low-wing warbird.

Grasshopper
09-26-2006, 02:20 AM
Ah Grashopper, amazing when the mind shuts down and instincts take over. The ever popular "Pucker Factor".:eek:

Glad it worked out for you. Good skills to save the bird and the crowd. :D

Believe you me Brad, the Pucker Meter was Peaked!

Grasshopper
09-26-2006, 02:25 AM
This is the reason I've advocated, since February when I bought my E-Flite P-47D, that everybody ditch the wing panels. They are unnecessary weight, and dangerous because they tend to come off in flight and get hung up on the landing gear.

In reality, their fragility and tendency to rip off in flight, subjecting the plane to nearly-uncontrollable roll forces, could be cause for a recall. After my third experience with this phenomenon, I took mine off and haven't missed it since.

But I fly my P-47D way too much. It's so beat up now, it's getting unrecognizable. Hundreds of flights, with gear on and off. I need to start writing down all my flights so instead of "hundreds" I can look at my flight log and tell you exactly how many hundreds something's had...

Might be time to look for the next airframe, and hang the P-47 to the ceiling in a place of honor as my first low-wing warbird.

Funny Red, you were the first person I thought of after this happened. I remembered reading your threads where they had come loose on yours. I took them off that evening, but my anal retentive little self couldn't leave them off. Ya see, I'm kind of a neat freak and the thought of exposed wires and connectors makes me all itchy. I fastened them back on and used some clear tape to seal the edges so the wind can't pull them off again.

I also used this time to go over the whole plane for a good inspection. I reinforced the ailerons where the control horns attach. That area has always bothered me. They just never seemed solid. They are now! I also mixed up some paint and touched up all the little white nicks in it. She looks all new and perty again.

alienx
09-26-2006, 03:03 AM
Funny Red, you were the first person I thought of after this happened. I remembered reading your threads where they had come loose on yours. I took them off that evening, but my anal retentive little self couldn't leave them off. Ya see, I'm kind of a neat freak and the thought of exposed wires and connectors makes me all itchy. I fastened them back on and used some clear tape to seal the edges so the wind can't pull them off again.

I also used this time to go over the whole plane for a good inspection. I reinforced the ailerons where the control horns attach. That area has always bothered me. They just never seemed solid. They are now! I also mixed up some paint and touched up all the little white nicks in it. She looks all new and perty again.

Good save!!

I too took mine off. I couldn't get them to stick, so I put clear tape on them. But the dewey grass would make that tape fail too. So I took off the panels and put some 100 MPH tape on the channels over the wires. It's silver anyway, so not a bad match. And what real plane doesn't have a little duct tape on it right!?

Weigh those panels. They are heavy (33 grams on my scale!). That's over an ounce if I remember any of the metric system.

redgiki
09-26-2006, 03:07 AM
A viable alternative is gray Monokote stick-on patches. That's what I used on my wire channels for a while. It's a very close match to the stock gray, though not perfect (but at least as close as the gray plastic panels.

I thought they were ugly, too, like the plastic wing panels, though, and just fly without them. My wing is fully fiberglassed, and in flight you don't notice the exposed stuff, as it's under the fiberglass and blends in fairly well.

The only part of the bird that still looks good is the fiberglassed wing! Though it has its share of dings...

Glacier Girl
09-26-2006, 03:08 AM
Don't worry, it just shows the bird has experience and is not a hanger queen.

eye definiti
10-04-2006, 11:02 AM
Thanks to alot of the information I have been gathering in this and other threads I decided to make the p-47 my first warbird.I have been flying a HZ super cub for about a month now and am feeling real confident with it in all areas, so I decided to move on up to a ARF with my own electronics.
I got the spectrum DX6, park 400 inrunner ( says most powerfull and best reccomended in the manual + no mod to motor stick,is this true, alot of you run the 450out?) and E-flite/Thunder power 2100 lipo.
I have been taking notes on things like the wire/wing covers, but what would be your most important reccomendations/mods before I maiden this bad boy?

Thanks in advance!

Grasshopper
10-04-2006, 03:00 PM
Hello Eye and Welcome,

The only things I can think of right now are:

1. Make sure the motor mount stick is epoxied in place. Mine came loose after a few flights and the motor almost fell out.

2. Check the areas where the control horns mount on the ailerons. They are very flimsy and should be reinforced. I put some very thin ply reinforcements over mine.

3. Check the bottom wing panels. Either remove them as some of the other guys mention or make sure they are fastened down very well. Check them often.

4. If I had to do it over again, I wouldn't install the rudder unless I was using a steerable tail wheel. That big fat rudder is not very effective in my opinion and I would have left it fixed. That would save some weight and the extra work and expense of a servo for it.

Other than that, it's a great flying plane.. It hand launches like a dream and will float in on landings. I'm not sure how it is with the landing gear on it since I left them off. I would also set the controls on a lower rate and the push rods at the ends of the control horns to start with. It's one of my favorite planes to fly.

Good luck with it and don't be afraid to ask questions. There's a lot of helpful guys here.

Tom

Phoenex
10-04-2006, 03:43 PM
Grasshopper (http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/member.php?u=5910) I am quite happy to see you have had a good experience with the E-flite P-47D. I have one that will always have a place in my hanger. Like you, I just fill in and touch it up once in awhile and it looks like new. As you stated there is a world of difference between the Parkzone P-51 and E-Flite P-47D. You will not find an easier smoother flying war plane than the P-47D.

I see you are interested in a twin war plane. Have you looked at the new GWS38 just coming out? There is more detailed info at the link below. Tower is showing in Nov. that you will be able to get one with twin brushless for under $100. I am VERY tempted....

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=560178

alienx
10-04-2006, 04:03 PM
I agree with Grasshopper. This plane has taken more tinkering to get it flight worthy, or keep it that way, than any other plane I've ever owned. But I still love it so much that I own three! My problems were all the motor stick and control horns problems others have mentioned. Even if the stick doesn't pull out in your hand, get some thick foam-safe CA or epoxy down into the shaft opening as best you can. Also, reinforce the horn mounts. I totally replaced my ailerons with balsa ones because I tore the horns out of the other ones. But this is overkill. Just harden the area with some CA or epoxy and then put the horns back on. Kind of paint the area so that the thin mounting area is attached to a broader area. Or lay some .5oz or .75 oz cloth on the top and bottom of the area with some polycrylic from the hardware store. Very simple to do.

I crashed my first due to forgeting to change the model over from a P51 to this plane in my Tx. Now I preflight all flight controls before I fly! But I salvaged the wing, canopy, and bellypan from the first and built one of the two new ones I bought. I also want to build the third as a repainted plane with all the panel lines smoothed (but that is a project for another time).

It's a very fun plane. And very stable in flight.

redgiki
10-04-2006, 04:59 PM
What Grasshopper said :) The big problem with the bird is hangar rash. But you will not find an easier-flying small electric low-wing warbird. You have to get this baby going really, really slow at a high angle of attack to make it tip-stall, and even then it prefers to mush down rather than have a hard stall break.

I agree with Grasshopper on the rudder thing, too. If I were to do it again, I'd just leave it aileron/elevator-only. The rudder is useless for knife-edge, and pretty much only useful for slightly-inclined "show passes"... you know the type, where you lean to one direction at about 20 degrees to show off the top of your plane, but keep flying straight ahead. It's hard to four-point-roll the bird because of the lack of rudder authority. Really, I just end up horsing it through a four-pointer like I do my Stryker. Lots of up angle of attack at the first and third quarters of the roll in order to not drop out. Looks kind of ugly to me, but I get a lot of compliments on my ability to four-point-roll a ship without a rudder :)

Anyway, the rudder is just extra weight, mostly. It does help coordinate turns a bit. Since I already have it, though, I just need to install a tailwheel and make it useful.

I'm not sure I would buy another one if I crashed this one, though. It's earned a spot in my hangar hall of fame, but after a couple hundred flights... I'm getting... (I hate to say it!) bored with it. It's a predictable, great-flying warbird, and I'm getting to the point that I want a bigger challenge when I'm out flying.

Grasshopper
10-04-2006, 07:57 PM
Grasshopper (http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/member.php?u=5910) I am quite happy to see you have had a good experience with the E-flite P-47D. I have one that will always have a place in my hanger. Like you, I just fill in and touch it up once in awhile and it looks like new. As you stated there is a world of difference between the Parkzone P-51 and E-Flite P-47D. You will not find an easier smoother flying war plane than the P-47D.

I see you are interested in a twin war plane. Have you looked at the new GWS38 just coming out? There is more detailed info at the link below. Tower is showing in Nov. that you will be able to get one with twin brushless for under $100. I am VERY tempted....

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=560178

Hey Phoenix,

I'm currently assembling a Wattage JU-87 Stuka and I have a Richmodels P-38 due to arrive in about 3 weeks. The GWS looks good too. Probably a lot easier to fix since it's foam, but I sure like the way balsa flys. Here's a link to the P-38. http://www.avia-richmodel.com/english/Products_View.asp?ID=454

Tom

eye definiti
10-04-2006, 08:24 PM
Thanks again for the quick run down on the most important pre flight mods. Couple that with all the other info in this thread and I think this should be an easy transition.
I was still curious why most are running the park 450 outrunner when the manual says all testing was w/400 inrunner and that its the most "powerfull" option?
Also, how did you set your CG? Since I am running the 400 do I still have to slide the lipo forward + add clay? Should I move the factory CG back 1/4" as reccomended? I plan on buying a CG stand should I also buy a prop ballancer?
Thanks again!

alienx
10-04-2006, 08:52 PM
Thanks again for the quick run down on the most important pre flight mods. Couple that with all the other info in this thread and I think this should be an easy transition.
I was still curious why most are running the park 450 outrunner when the manual says all testing was w/400 inrunner and that its the most "powerfull" option?
Also, how did you set your CG? Since I am running the 400 do I still have to slide the lipo forward + add clay? Should I move the factory CG back 1/4" as reccomended? I plan on buying a CG stand should I also buy a prop ballancer?
Thanks again!
I don't have my book handy, but I think that the 450 was the most powerful option with the 400 in the middle??? Maybe I'm wrong. If I remember correctly, the 400 was an inrunner set-up with a required gearbox. That's just not something I care to have. I like the simplicity of a direct drive.

As far as CG, I think the wing marks work very well. But I did have to add weight to both of mine. 1.25 oz and 1.5 oz of tire balancing stick-ons, respectively. They clay came up a little short for me. You can't get much better than that unless you have the battery in a non-stock location. That is, with the 450 anyway. Maybe the 400 is heavier.

Phoenex
10-04-2006, 08:53 PM
Thanks again for the quick run down on the most important pre flight mods. Couple that with all the other info in this thread and I think this should be an easy transition.
I was still curious why most are running the park 450 outrunner when the manual says all testing was w/400 inrunner and that its the most "powerfull" option?

Many people prefer to use Outrunner vrs. inrunner n gearbox. Gearbox issues are a pain to deal with unless you have experience and extra tools. The most powerful motor is not high on a list of flying a warbird. Many like scale appearance and flight charteristics. The stock motor is more powerful than scale already so the 450 is a very nice outrunner for this model. You get a little extra for flying in winds and getting out of trouble. I am running a gearbox and inrunner, but it has been a pain to mess with the gearbox(I think I finally have gotten a grip on it) :) . I just happen to have many of these inrunners lying around. They are very effecient when setup properly. I do like the gearbox sound, but some don't.

Also, how did you set your CG? Since I am running the 400 do I still have to slide the lipo forward + add clay? Should I move the factory CG back 1/4" as reccomended? I plan on buying a CG stand should I also buy a prop ballancer?

I like the CF 1/4" back, the plane flys much better upside down for me. I have a prop balancer and use it for new props all the time. Most of them are pretty close and on these small props it is not usually critical. Should you see a vibration you can just try another.
You will have to check your particular plane see what you need to do for getting COG where you want it.

Thanks again!

The manual will tell you to check the hinges from the factory. Mine were not glued well. I ended wicking some thin CA into the aileron hinges. I used PU(Gorilla or Elmers) glue to hold the motor stick in place, again the factory glue job is not up to par.

Grasshopper
10-04-2006, 10:42 PM
Good one Phoenix. I forgot about the hinges. Mine were loose too so I used some foam safe CA on them.

As far as CG. I put mine right on the two red dots on the wing. I used a highly precision CG stand (two index fingers) and made it slightly nose heavy. I had to add 1 oz. of weight and also used the stick on tire weights. I stuck it to the foam under the motor mount. Not in the cowl. As far as battery placement, my 3S 2100 lipo is all the way forward in the battery cavity with the exception of a piece of 1/4" foam in front of it.

redgiki
10-05-2006, 01:28 AM
Yeah, you have to add nose weight if you use a light brushless outrunner.

Definitely balance your props. You're hitting around 7,000 RPMs with many props, and that's plenty fast to shake apart your bird.

eye definiti
10-06-2006, 12:11 PM
OK, so I'm taking the 400 back for the 450 outrunner. The gear box seemed very sloppy.
How does the prop attach to that 450? Does the hardware come w/the 450?

Phoenex
10-06-2006, 01:04 PM
OK, so I'm taking the 400 back for the 450 outrunner. The gear box seemed very sloppy.
How does the prop attach to that 450? Does the hardware come w/the 450?


The 450 comes with a collet type prop adapter to attach the prop. The stock prop will have to be reamed out to fit this prop adapter. Another very popular prop choice is the APC 11x7E prop. The prop gives you much more thrust, does not have to be reamed out and performs very well with this airplane/motor combination.

Grasshopper
10-06-2006, 03:00 PM
I can't remember what all props I tried (a bunch). I ended up with an APC 9x6E that seemed to work the best. By no means is it the fastest prop but it gives great performance and pulls less amps so I get longer flight times. Actually, the prop that seemed to fly it the fastest is the stock E-Flite prop that came with it but it drew too many amps.

alienx
10-06-2006, 03:48 PM
I can't remember what all props I tried (a bunch). I ended up with an APC 9x6E that seemed to work the best. By no means is it the fastest prop but it gives great performance and pulls less amps so I get longer flight times. Actually, the prop that seemed to fly it the fastest is the stock E-Flite prop that came with it but it drew too many amps.
I have to try some others now. I bought a ton of the stockers when I got the plane, and have never tried another. But like you said, the amp draw is around 17 or so if I remember correctly. I wouldn't mind getting a more torquey, lower amp characteristic out of it. The APC slow flyers seem lighter, so they should draw a little less energy, all else equal.

Grasshopper
10-06-2006, 04:30 PM
Keep in mind the SF props have broader blades than the E series so they tend to draw more amps given the same diameter and pitch. At least they have in my tests.

alienx
10-06-2006, 06:32 PM
Keep in mind the SF props have broader blades than the E series so they tend to draw more amps given the same diameter and pitch. At least they have in my tests.

I've just been afraid of the electrics because they are so rigid. I was worried about putting them on my belly lander. Is yours geared?

Phoenex
10-06-2006, 06:44 PM
Keep in mind the SF props have broader blades than the E series so they tend to draw more amps given the same diameter and pitch. At least they have in my tests.

You are correct that they do draw more amps because they are designed for low rpm and have more bite to grab some air at the low rpms. Using them with higher rpm setups(above 6,000 rpm or so), they tend to just beat the air and are inefficient. The stock prop is said to be a cross between the two. I have only broken one 11x7E prop belly landing.

alienx
10-06-2006, 06:55 PM
You are correct that they do draw more amps because they are designed for low rpm and have more bite to grab some air at the low rpms. Using them with higher rpm setups(above 6,000 rpm or so), they tend to just beat the air and are inefficient. The stock prop is said to be a cross between the two. I have only broken one 11x7E prop belly landing.
I never cared about the props per se, I am worried about tearing out the motor mount. What do you think?

Phoenex
10-06-2006, 07:14 PM
I never cared about the props per se, I am worried about tearing out the motor mount. What do you think?

Once you glue the motor stick in solid with epoxy or gorilla glue, the prop will break well before any other damage happens. The plane flys very sweet for low speed landings floating in. The one break I had, the prop just happen to rotate straight up and down as the plane was going into the grass.

Grasshopper
10-06-2006, 07:22 PM
I've just been afraid of the electrics because they are so rigid. I was worried about putting them on my belly lander. Is yours geared?

Mine is a belly flopper and I've never broken a prop. I left the gear off mainly because I like the looks of it in flight much better without the gear and I usually fly off grass.

alienx
10-06-2006, 07:53 PM
Fellas, I'm inspired. Gonna see what kind of E props I have at home. I think I bout a couple11x7 or 10x7 or whatever they came as in that size area.

Sunday is looking good for flying. Hopefully a Corsair maiden first!

Grasshopper
10-06-2006, 07:58 PM
Hopefully you'll get that Gull Winged Beauty in the air this weekend. I'm anxious to hear how it goes. Sounds like you're going to have a great flyer from what I've been reading about it. If it's any further consolation, Everything I fly uses APC E props. I've just found they perform better in my applications and draw less current than the SF props.

alienx
10-06-2006, 08:03 PM
Hopefully you'll get that Gull Winged Beauty in the air this weekend. I'm anxious to hear how it goes. Sounds like you're going to have a great flyer from what I've been reading about it. If it's any further consolation, Everything I fly uses APC E props. I've just found they perform better in my applications and draw less current than the SF props.
Thanks.

It's odd, because the only reason I haven't used them is because I think a while back, somebody scared me into thinking I needed to go SF. I have a overflowing shoebox full of SF props (and I have big feet!).

I'm looking forward to testing a new prop or two.

Grasshopper
10-06-2006, 08:08 PM
Another brand I've started to try is the Mater Airscrew Electric props. Nice thing about them is they are black. I've been using a permanent marker to paint the APC props black and then paint yellow tips with Testors flat yellow model paint. Makes a big difference in the looks of the plane.

alienx
10-06-2006, 08:22 PM
Another brand I've started to try is the Mater Airscrew Electric props. Nice thing about them is they are black. I've been using a permanent marker to paint the APC props black and then paint yellow tips with Testors flat yellow model paint. Makes a big difference in the looks of the plane.

I've had my eye on a MAS 8.5x6 to try versus the 8x6 SF. I will have to add a few to my next order I'm sure.

I agree on the paint job. I've had some luck with rattle can rustoleum. I shoot the whole prop black and then mask it for yellow tips. Sometimes they peel during the unmasking, but it generally works. Do those MAS props have writting on them like in the tower hobbies picture? I saw that and couldn't figure out why they weren't smart enough to know that looks count!

Grasshopper
10-06-2006, 09:58 PM
I've had my eye on a MAS 8.5x6 to try versus the 8x6 SF. I will have to add a few to my next order I'm sure.

I agree on the paint job. I've had some luck with rattle can rustoleum. I shoot the whole prop black and then mask it for yellow tips. Sometimes they peel during the unmasking, but it generally works. Do those MAS props have writting on them like in the tower hobbies picture? I saw that and couldn't figure out why they weren't smart enough to know that looks count!

Unfortunately they do have the white writing on them but they still look a lot better than the gray or those hiddeous orange things. I haven't tried, but you may be able to sand the white letters off and cover it up with a marker.

alienx
10-06-2006, 11:35 PM
Unfortunately they do have the white writing on them but they still look a lot better than the gray or those hiddeous orange things. I haven't tried, but you may be able to sand the white letters off and cover it up with a marker.
I guess painting (or sharpie'ing) white letters is still a better proposition (no pun intended) than painting a gray prop!

eye definiti
10-07-2006, 10:43 AM
After being unhappy with the 400 inrunner/gearbox situation I did get the 450 Outrunner, cut the stick and put it in. I installed it with the 40amp eflite esc and my DSX6 reciever,secured ailerons& elevators, modified batt compartment,added the whole clay bar and the plane now ballances out perfectly on the CG tool and I'm using the 10x8 eflite prop that is reccomended.I feel like I'm about ready for my first flight.Does anybody know if I have to "bind" my Spectrum DSX6 to the reciever or is that factory default? Also, stupid queston here but just to make sure I don't have my aileron controls backwards, what ailerons should be facing up when I have the stick left/right?Thanks again for the help, I will be flying this at the field tomarrow!

Sky Sharkster
10-07-2006, 11:07 AM
Hello Eye Definiti, Welcome to Wattflyer! I can't help with the DS6X, don't have one. As far as the ailerons go, the airplane turns (rolls) towards the "up" deflection.
I always set the plane facing away from me to check the controls, you're looking at the rear of the aircraft. Couple of reasons for this; One, this way, "right" rudder command turns the rudder right viewed from the rear (or the cockpit, in a full-sized airplane). Two, If you run up the motor, you're behind the prop, which is the only safe place to be!
Anyway, when you apply right aileron control, the right aileron should move up, and the left aileron should move down.
Good Luck!
Ron

alienx
10-07-2006, 01:35 PM
Yes, think of it this way. The wind flowing over the wing (or tail for that matter) runs into the control surface that is sticking up (or down) and pushes it away. So if the aileron is sticking up, the wind will push that wing down. The lower wing obviously is the one that the plane turns toward.

What did you do to your battery compartment? I want to relocate mine on the next plane so I can get away without the lead.

Good luck.

Phoenex
10-07-2006, 03:03 PM
After being unhappy with the 400 inrunner/gearbox situation I did get the 450 Outrunner, cut the stick and put it in. I installed it with the 40amp eflite esc and my DSX6 reciever,secured ailerons& elevators, modified batt compartment,added the whole clay bar and the plane now ballances out perfectly on the CG tool and I'm using the 10x8 eflite prop that is reccomended.I feel like I'm about ready for my first flight.Does anybody know if I have to "bind" my Spectrum DSX6 to the reciever or is that factory default?

Assuming that you bought the Spektrum package and not a used one from a friend, the rx is already bound to the tx from the factory. I went through that process since I bought it used and I wanted to know how to do it. This is in the manual.:)

Also, stupid queston here but just to make sure I don't have my aileron controls backwards, what ailerons should be facing up when I have the stick left/right?Thanks again for the help, I will be flying this at the field tomarrow!

Standing behind the plane is best as already mentioned. The right stick moved to the right should make the right aileron go up and the left one go down. Moving the right stick up should make the elevator go down. Moving the left stick left should make the rudder go left, if you installed the rudder. I always to try to do a very thorough pre-flight inspection of any plane every time I launch, because once it is up in the air it's too late. Keep a close eye on your servos, control rods, clevis, control horns, hinges, etc. Between my brother and I we have caught a lot of problems before launching that could have caused a crash, so it's a very good habit to get into.

Good luck!

eye definiti
10-07-2006, 07:53 PM
Excellent tips on the ailerons guys, I just didn't want a mishap since this is my 1st aileron plane.One more thing, anybody know if the eflite 40amp ESC needs to be programmed for soft cutoff for LIPO or is it ready to go out of the box? If so, will I notice dropoff in power and have plenty of time to land like with the Cub/NiMh setup I have? I'm running TP 3 cell 2100 mah. Thanks for all the help, today should be her first flight.

alienx
10-07-2006, 09:03 PM
Excellent tips on the ailerons guys, I just didn't want a mishap since this is my 1st aileron plane.One more thing, anybody know if the eflite 40amp ESC needs to be programmed for soft cutoff for LIPO or is it ready to go out of the box? If so, will I notice dropoff in power and have plenty of time to land like with the Cub/NiMh setup I have? I'm running TP 3 cell 2100 mah. Thanks for all the help, today should be her first flight.

I have an E-flite 20 amp (40 is just extra weight in your bird!), and I assume it is going to automatically cut-off for me. But I never run to that point. I creep up on my 65-70% usage time a by adding a minute to my flights until I am getting the drain I want (based on the mah's put back in during the charge). The worst I ever did was go about 81% or so and my battery voltage was still 11.16. To tell you the truth, I can't even remember what the cut-off voltage is (like 3 or 3.4 or 3.6 or something). At any rate even at 81% usage, I was still like 3.7 per cell. Actually, I'm a litle worried that I was right at the edge that time!

I have never noticed a drop-off in flight power at my flight times. But again, I never drained one to cut-off either. One habbit I do have instinctively though is to climb as I get near my timer limit. I think I fly with a 14 minute timer on this plane. So around 12-13 minutes, I am already starting to think about landing, so I start to climb to a safe approach height (if there even is one!). Worst case, my battery gets cut off and I have the height to glide in. At 25.35 oz AUW, my bird still seems to have all the glide I could want.

eye definiti
10-07-2006, 10:16 PM
Thanks, I will set a 13 min timer and see how it works out. I only got the 40 amp so I can upgrade to a bigger motor and the weight difference is almost nil. One more thing, I needed the whole bar of clay and then some (socket) to get proper CG. Is this normal w/the 450 outrunner?

alienx
10-07-2006, 11:51 PM
Thanks, I will set a 13 min timer and see how it works out. I only got the 40 amp so I can upgrade to a bigger motor and the weight difference is almost nil. One more thing, I needed the whole bar of clay and then some (socket) to get proper CG. Is this normal w/the 450 outrunner?
If I remember correctly, I put my ESC as far forward on the bottom of the fuse as I could. Even with the clay in the cowl, I couldn't get balanced. So I left the esc there and added 5-6 .25 oz tire weights to the inside of the very front of the foam nose as I could get them. That did the trick. I've heard other people use more weight than me (I think).

I would set you timer to a conservative 11 minutes until you see how you make out. You may fly more aggressively than me. Incidentally, I use a couple of 2200 mah and 2100 mah packs (2 of each, used one at a time, obviously). You probably have the same type of battery. But if you bought a TP2100, you may need more weight than me because mine are Apex batteries and slightly heavier than the thunder power's.

Good luck. I hope to be able to report a successful Corsair maiden in the morning too.

Taylorman
10-09-2006, 05:05 PM
Maidened my Eflight P-47 yesterday! Beautiful flyer and wanted to float for ever when coming in for a landing ( I admit to coming in hot most the time). I built it as a "Belly Flopper" and did not do the conversion for rudder control yet.

Set up:

Eflight Park 400 Outrunner w/ reamed out prop from the kit to the motor spindle.
20 amp Eflight ESC/BEC
Thunder Power 2100 3s Lipo
3 HS-55 servo's
Castle 7chanel Receiver
Of course needed weight in the nose for proper CG 60mm from the leading edge

There was a light wind at about 5 MPH and CAVU. The only problem I had was when using the "Great Circle" approach for the first landing towards me, the green camouflage of the plane caused me to lose sight of it while on final when it dropped below the tree line. There were a few long seconds of "Pucker Factor" intil I regained sight of the plane and put it down safely! All in all, no bad habits and looked great in the air. Haven't decided yet wether ot add the rudder, fly's great without it.

alienx
10-09-2006, 05:11 PM
Congratulations on the good maiden!! I think I am going to start my 3rd one now.

Taylorman
10-09-2006, 06:25 PM
I have half a mind to build another but to paint it to match the 1945 versions in aluminum for flying in the summer so it's more visible against the tree's. We'll see though, my original plan was to build an F6F Hellcat next followed by a Corsair and finally a P-51.

alienx
10-09-2006, 06:30 PM
I have half a mind to build another but to paint it to match the 1945 versions in aluminum for flying in the summer so it's more visible against the tree's. We'll see though, my original plan was to build an F6F Hellcat next followed by a Corsair and finally a P-51.

Yes, I want to make mine aluminum as well. I was going to pull one of my new ones out of the box, but I may just repair my first fuselage, since I'm going to be doing the bodywork anyway!

What Hellcat did you have in mind? I am looking for other midwing's now that I think the P47 is my favorite plane.

Taylorman
10-09-2006, 08:25 PM
I've only begun to research, but I've looked at the Electrifly Hellcat and the Great Planes Hellcat. Looks though that both are 3-channel but I'd really like to have rudder control as well... the search continues........... I would also like to use some of the equipment I have already such as Eflight s-75 servo's and Park 400 or Park 450 outrunners

Grasshopper
10-09-2006, 08:28 PM
Congrats on the maiden Taylorman! They are great flyers. I got mine out yesterday morning for a couple of flights after fixing the lower wing panels in place. I also moved the aileron clevises down two holes to add more throw. It makes much sharper rolls now.

As far as the rudder, I would suggest you leave it fixed. I put it on mine but if I had to do it over, I wouldn't. It has very little control being so fat and I rarely ever use it. Mine's a belly flopper too so I didn't need it to steer on the ground.

You're right about the green fading into the trees. I've had a few of those moments too. If you change one to silver, it will be a trade of as silver can dissapear against the clouds on a gray day.

Here's a picture of a real P-47 I have for the wall paper on my computer. This is the paint scheme I would like to do my next one in and change it to a bubble top.

Taylorman
10-10-2006, 01:34 AM
I've seen that pic around the net. Sure is a nice looking plane.

I managed to get a couple of flights in after work before it got dark. One with my Cessna 182 and the second was the P-47. I'll tell you the Jug is rapidly becoming my favorite flyer! If I'd have flown the Jug first the 182 would have stayed in the car.

BTW good thought about the Silver fading into the clouds!

eye definiti
10-13-2006, 03:18 AM
OK, Since I last posted (been busy) I had my first flight. All went well thanks inpart to the help I found here. After a minor SNAFU (elevator needed to be reversed) I found my self airborne after only a few feet of runway and only 1/2 throttle on the DX6.After initial trim I noticed I was a little nose heavy so I decided to bring her in to reduce the weight.Heres where things get sketchy....on approach I noticed I was very HOT so I made annother pass with less speed (much dif than HZ super cub) I came in low and mannaged to land HARD but with little to no dammage. After adjusting the weight, I was off again in no time.This 450 outrunner screams with a 11.1v 2100mah lipo and will climb like a bat out of you know where. Since then she has been on about 6-7 sucessfull flights and counting. I would like some approach tips though, seems to want to nose over and the tail gear never wants to let me roll straight once I'm down. I also have to add that I completely love this new FMA Cellpro 4s lipo ballancer/charger I got, it makes dealing with lipos very convinent and fast.Thanks again for the tips, I will also be posting a few cockpit videos this weekend from my p-47 at the local AMA field.

Setup- Eflite P-47,450 brushless outrunner,Spektrum DX6 w/4 microservos, 11.1 2100 mah 3s 15C Commonsense Lipos, 4S charger

Grasshopper
10-13-2006, 05:18 AM
Congrats on the first flight Eye! I didn't put the gear on mine so it may come in on approaches differently. Depending on the space I'm flying in, I like to make a long gentle approach under a little power. When I'm about 4 feet off the ground, I kill the motor and let it glide in flaring it out just before it touches down. She slides in beautifully on her fat belly. My P-47 is probably one of the easiest landing planes I have since it has very little tendency to stall and will float in fairly slow.

As far as rolling straight when you touch down, I assume you don't have a steerable tail wheel. You can check to see how she tracks on the ground by gently rolling it on a smooth flat surface under no power and see if it rolls straight. You can slightly bend your tail or main wheels to give it an alignment so to speak. Do this carefully so you don't crack the mounts.

Once you know it does track straight, when you bring her in for a landing, let her set down gently on the mains and control the path with the rudder. Let the tail set down and she should roll out ok. If you don't have the rudder on it, you really don't have much control once in sets down (or even just before touch down). I don't think the rudder is very effective on this plane because of it's short fat cross section.

Of course all of this is strictly my opinion. Maybe someone else will chime in with some advice.

Tom

Phoenex
10-13-2006, 01:19 PM
eye definiti,

You need to bend the landing gear forward so that when looking down from the top, the leading edge of the wing is over the center of the hub of the wheels to stop those nose tip overs.

Taylorman
10-13-2006, 04:21 PM
I've set my P-47 up w/out Landing gear. However, the guys in my club who have, told me to bend the landing gear wire so that the tires are at or just forward of the leading edge of the wing. I'm on the fence about mounting them on mine because it looks so nice in the air without them, also to reduce the parasitic drag. I did mount the tail wheel to protect the elevator control horn and push rod (I hope) since it's a belly flopper. This weekend, I may add the rudder servo and make the rudder functional. I've already upgraded to the Park 450 Outrunner.

Grasshopper
10-13-2006, 06:32 PM
Hi Taylorman,

I didn't mount the gear for the very reason you mentioned. To reduce weight, drag and I just don't like the looks of gear hanging down on a warbird. I didn't put the tail wheel on either and I've had no problems with the control horn. This plane makes a great belly flopper. I think I mentioned earlier, that if I had to do it over, I would not do the rudder mod. It's not very effective, I rarely use it and it flys great with elevator and ailerons only.

Again, just my opinion.

Taylorman
10-13-2006, 07:45 PM
Grasshopper,

You're right, a warbird doing aerobatics with the wheels down just doesn't look right unless it's a Stuka or one of the Japanese warbirds designed w/fixed gear!

As far as the rudder, yesterday I thought about making the mod, today I looked at it before leaving for work and thought Nah! maybe not. I guess I'll need to buy another warbird to build put my extra servo in that and get rid of the temptation! Not only that, the plane flies w/out it very well and why fix something that isn't broken!

(*&^ I hate being on the fence!

alienx
10-13-2006, 07:52 PM
Grasshopper,

You're right, a warbird doing aerobatics with the wheels down just doesn't look right unless it's a Stuka or one of the Japanese warbirds designed w/fixed gear!

As far as the rudder, yesterday I thought about making the mod, today I looked at it before leaving for work and thought Nah! maybe not. I guess I'll need to buy another warbird to build put my extra servo in that and get rid of the temptation! Not only that, the plane flies w/out it very well and why fix something that isn't broken!

(*&^ I hate being on the fence!


I've tried to stay out of this because I feel like I've had too many opinions lately. But I like the rudder. That is purely a reflection on my purist personality. I don't think you need it (probably not on too many park flyers), but I like it. And it was one plane I didn't have to feel worried about adding weight. I left my wing plates and gear off. I also wasn't smart enough at the time I built my first one to know any better! The only thing I currently use the rudder for is stall turns, or hammerheads, whatever they are. My pilot buddy tried to explain the drag that the coordinated turns are supposed to counteract, but I didn't really get it. And I've never seen a plane I've flown "need" rudder, or for that matter, not need it. I just like having it. It's a comfort thing ...it just kind of feels right for me. But Like others have said, you won't miss it if you don't have it.

Taylorman
10-13-2006, 09:24 PM
Your right Alienx, The rudder is needed for some aerobatic maneuvers, and also to counter adverse yaw when making turns (drag caused by the "down" aileron, which makes the plane initially yaw in the opposite direction of the turn), I guess what some are saying, is that the adverse yaw is not really noticible on the P-47 hence no need for the rudder. As you can tell by my posts, I'm on the fence as to making mine operational. 1/2 of me says don't worry about it, but the purist in me says do it. In fact since all my other airplanes have functioning rudders, my left thumb automatically moves in the appropriate direction even though there's no rudder control.....

Bottom line - I think it's a personal choice as to wether the rudder on the P-47 is used, and there is no real right or wrong here. There are lot's of park flyers out there w/out rudder control that fly very well.

Grasshopper
10-13-2006, 09:31 PM
I think part of my issue is that I'm probably not a very good pilot. I just fly and smile so I don't even notice it. Probably won't ever win any competitions either.

alienx
10-13-2006, 09:34 PM
I think part of my issue is that I'm probably not a very good pilot. I just fly and smile so I don't even notice it. Probably won't ever win any competitions either.
I feel a lot that way sometimes too. But you really can get some nice hammerheads out of this plane. I attribute that to the stability of the plane too. I probably couldn't have done the same on my P51 Marie if it had a rudder. It just wouldn't let me maintain a decent heading as it inverted for loops or whatever.

Man, I hope to be able to get out tomorrow now!!

Mongo40
01-31-2007, 04:12 PM
Hey guys quick question, had a brain fart and got my plane fully assembled before I checked the CG, need to add a little weight to the nose but the cowl is stuck on with the two sided tape, how do you fellas get it to let loose so you can pull the cowl off with out denting the foam or cracking that cowl. I hope to fly mine this weekend but have been slowly taking my time putting it together and adding a few little extras to personalize it. I'll take some pics of it once I feel I'm done with it. Thanks
Chris

alienx
01-31-2007, 04:37 PM
Hey guys quick question, had a brain fart and got my plane fully assembled before I checked the CG, need to add a little weight to the nose but the cowl is stuck on with the two sided tape, how do you fellas get it to let loose so you can pull the cowl off with out denting the foam or cracking that cowl. I hope to fly mine this weekend but have been slowly taking my time putting it together and adding a few little extras to personalize it. I'll take some pics of it once I feel I'm done with it. Thanks
Chris
If it is only a few spots of tape, maybe you can slide a thin, flat knife next to it and pull up a little. Be careful not to dig your knuckles or the handle into the foam.

If not, maybe just try to work around the edges with your fingers a little and then pull forward. Tape is tricky sometimes because there is no slack in the diameter of the cowl.

This is one plane that I used the servo screws on. I sunk two small pieces of balsa into the nose and then drilled into them throguh the cowl. It's worked out well and held up to a lot of belly landing.

Definitely put up some pics. I could still look at this plane all day.

Good luck!

Grasshopper
01-31-2007, 05:14 PM
Hi Mongo,

Screws like Alien mentioned are good. I was always sliding a razor knife and slicing the tape to get it off. I put a couple small pieces of velcro on mine and now I just slide a little plastic ruler in to seperate it. Works good for me.

Tom

alienx
01-31-2007, 05:36 PM
Hi Mongo,

Screws like Alien mentioned are good. I was always sliding a razor knife and slicing the tape to get it off. I put a couple small pieces of velcro on mine and now I just slide a little plastic ruler in to seperate it. Works good for me.

Tom
Plastic ruler. Good idea!

Mongo40
01-31-2007, 05:39 PM
I like the thin velcro idear, my first thought was trying to slip a playing card in there to loosen it up but I'll try your suggestions, it hasn't set to long and its pretty cool down in my basement so maybe the stickum on the tape hasn't set up to good yet. Thanks guys.

Mongo40
02-06-2007, 04:54 AM
23625

23626

here's a couple of pics of mine, I've done all I'm going to do on it for awhile, painted the cowl and that funky looking engine, added a pinup and some kill flags, added a rudder, will do some more detail with a drybrush on the body if it survives a few flights, kind of like I did on the canopy, added the no glare stripe down the nose, thought about adding invasion stripes but will wait till the trees green up again. all this bad weather were having here leaves me with nothing to do but work on it, finally put it up and got another model out to take up my time. need to paint a name on the cowl or something but can't make up my mind on it, was thinking of painting "Loves big Jugs!" right above the pin up but haven't done it yet. Later

Grasshopper
02-06-2007, 04:59 AM
Cool! Like the nose art and the 22 kills.

alienx
02-06-2007, 01:24 PM
Looks good ...unique.

Mongo40
02-06-2007, 02:38 PM
Nothing special just wanted to change it up a bit, didn't like the yellow and black on the cowl, kept crumbling off, didn't like the little silver dots on it either, so repainted the red, and olive drab on the cowl with tamiya acrylics. down loaded the kill flags from the decal thread and the pinup from one of the pinup sites and printed it off on my inkjet onto full size label sheets for inkjets that I got at Office Depot, cut it out with an exacto and stuck them on. the pinup looks good in person, kind of did a white out with the camera shot, that afternoon sun I guess.

buzzbomber
02-06-2007, 06:27 PM
Hopefully, by the time we get a warm spell, I'll have the P-47 my wife bought me for Christmas ready to fly. I was really pleased with the level of finish on this plane, and looking forward to actually flying it. Anything I should look out for on the maiden flight, setup per the instruction manual? I'm not expecting any problems, just curious.

alienx
02-06-2007, 06:46 PM
Hopefully, by the time we get a warm spell, I'll have the P-47 my wife bought me for Christmas ready to fly. I was really pleased with the level of finish on this plane, and looking forward to actually flying it. Anything I should look out for on the maiden flight, setup per the instruction manual? I'm not expecting any problems, just curious.
I flew mine on the 450 outrunner set-up, but it was the best maiden I can remember (next to my PZ Cub maybe). Flew straight and level right out of the box.

buzzbomber
02-07-2007, 02:52 PM
Good to hear! Mine's actually getting a Hacker A20-20L, and the batteries will either be a 3S 2100 lipo or one of a few 8-cell 1100mah nimhs I have lying about.

buzzbomber
02-13-2007, 02:56 PM
Haven't had any time to mess about with the Jug until last night. I went to make the final motor connections and mount the ESC to the airframe and discovered that I need to extend the leads in order to have enough wire to reach from the batter compartment to the motor, using the precut hole in the bottom of the battery tray. Anybody else encounter this issue? For the record, I'm using a Hacker A20-20L and a Jeti 18 Advance, both with all leads at factory length. Not a big deal, but it put a stop to my ARFing till I get a chance to go to the LHS and get some 12 or 14 ga. wire.

Grasshopper
02-13-2007, 03:18 PM
Hi Buzzbomber,

I had the same issue with the wires on mine. I put some extensions on the ESC using solder and heat shrink. I can't remember what the gauge was right off hand but it was the same as what is on the ESC. Been flying it for a year now with no problems what so ever.

buzzbomber
02-13-2007, 03:41 PM
Hi Buzzbomber,

I had the same issue with the wires on mine. I put some extensions on the ESC using solder and heat shrink. I can't remember what the gauge was right off hand but it was the same as what is on the ESC. Been flying it for a year now with no problems what so ever.

Gotcha. I just don't have anything bigger than 18ga on hand, so I'll stop by the local Hobbytown tonight and pick up some 12ga.(that looks to be what's on the batter side of the ESC).

Grasshopper
02-13-2007, 03:48 PM
I wouldn't think you would need 12 ga. I think the wires on most ESCs are either 16 or 18 ga. Are you possibly looking at the battery leads off the ESC instead of the motor leads?

buzzbomber
02-15-2007, 04:58 PM
Tom, actually, I was looking at the leads on the battery side. I've never had good luck extending the motor-side leads on brushless ESCs. I added 6" of 12ga. to the battery-side leads on the ESC, but then remembered the problems that can allegedly cause sometimes.

Right now, I think I'm going to flip the motor 180 on the stick mount so the leads exit the can on top and stick the ESC in the battery vent passage rather than running it through the lower passage between the wing and fuselage. That won't require the leads as long......don't know why I didn't think of it before:rolleyes: .

On a side note, I was horrified to find that I needed 1-3/4oz of lead in the nose to balance on the wing dots with an 8-cell nimh pushed all the way forward. By the way, the molded CG dots seem pretty far forward, no? The Hacker IS quite a bit lighter than the stock lump, so that probably accounts for part of it. AUW with the round cell pack was 27 oz(box says 26 max). Don't know where I went wrong--using 9gm servos, 15gm Rx, lighter than stock motor? I did add rudder, but thats 9gms for the servo and less for the pushrod.

Grasshopper
02-15-2007, 05:28 PM
Tom, actually, I was looking at the leads on the battery side. I've never had good luck extending the motor-side leads on brushless ESCs. I added 6" of 12ga. to the battery-side leads on the ESC, but then remembered the problems that can allegedly cause sometimes.

Right now, I think I'm going to flip the motor 180 on the stick mount so the leads exit the can on top and stick the ESC in the battery vent passage rather than running it through the lower passage between the wing and fuselage. That won't require the leads as long......don't know why I didn't think of it before:rolleyes: .

On a side note, I was horrified to find that I needed 1-3/4oz of lead in the nose to balance on the wing dots with an 8-cell nimh pushed all the way forward. By the way, the molded CG dots seem pretty far forward, no? The Hacker IS quite a bit lighter than the stock lump, so that probably accounts for part of it. AUW with the round cell pack was 27 oz(box says 26 max). Don't know where I went wrong--using 9gm servos, 15gm Rx, lighter than stock motor? I did add rudder, but thats 9gms for the servo and less for the pushrod.

The P-47 was my first brushless set up and I extended the motor leads on the ESC about 8". I dont know if this is a good thing or not but that was when I was too dumb to know any better ( not much smarter now by the way). I've been running it with a Park 450 for a year now with no problem.

My CG is set right on the red dots and I had to add 1 oz. of weight to the nose. If I remember correctly, my AUW ended up around 30 oz. and flys great. Mine has the rudder too but if I did it over again, I'd leave it off. It really isn't very effective, more just a big ol fat piece of styrofoam.

buzzbomber
02-15-2007, 09:08 PM
Whew! That's good news! I really hate adding ballast to a ship, but I already had everything moved up all the way. Now I just need to check the control throws and get some more cooperative weather so I can actually fly the thing!

Grasshopper
02-15-2007, 09:16 PM
Good luck with the maiden Matt. You are going to love that plane. It flys great and just floats in on landings.

pd1
02-15-2007, 10:04 PM
Good luck with the maiden Matt. You are going to love that plane. It flys great and just floats in on landings.

I agree with everything Tom said, and I would add looks great in the air.

walts
03-04-2007, 09:23 PM
Hi guy's,
Just found this thread, I have been flying one of these for around a year now, still in it's bog standard form with the supplied 480 can motor powered by a 3s 2200mah lipo. I never fitted the u/c or made the rudder functional.
I was a little worried about the maiden not having flown anything this small before, let alone a warbird. But my worries were unfounded, this is one of the best flying models i have ever owned, and instills great confidence. I'm happy to fly this model through several circuits inverted, it never seems to get too small which allows for quite wide scale like flying and is an absolute breeze to bring in. It's getting a bit tatty now but is still going strong. I epoxy coated the belly pan to give it some resistance to the rough feild i fly on, and the prop has been changed after breakage to a horrid orange slow fly prop, but it still preforms faultlessly,
This was the one & only time someone else hand launched for me..................and that was simply because he offered:D This bird is stable enough to hand launch myself, go and pour a coffe, roll a smoke and get back to the sticks..................(well not quite:D ) But I love it !
Hope this ease's the pre maiden nerves Matt;)

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e245/walts_1/Picture20139.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e245/walts_1/P1030607.jpg

Cheers Walts

buzzbomber
03-05-2007, 02:47 PM
Looks good, Walts! Unfortunately, we're back in "deep freeze" mode here, so it's going to be a while before I get a chance to maiden the 47. It did get nice and warm on Saturday, but the wind was up around 15 knots, so I refrained from flying. With Daylight Savings Time starting next weekend, my chances are improving though, since I might be able to sneak out after work when the evening calm sets in.

buzzbomber
05-07-2007, 04:13 PM
Finally had a chance to maiden the P-47 on Friday night. It's a good flying plane and received several compliments from the peanut gallery about its flying and looks while airborne. Did have one small but expensive problem though. On the second flight, I lost power to the prop after about five minutes and had to glide in. When I got the the plane, I smelled that sickening ozone/melted epoxy smell......long story short, I smoked the hacker A20-20L I had mounted up.:{ It's a total loss. On the bright side, the batteries and ESC were fine, barely even warm. I'm still not 100% sure, but I think when I wattmetered the power setup, I was operating on a 50% charged pack, leading me to get numbers that were within safe limits while a fully charged pack was pulling enough power to overheat the windings.

Anyhow, I picked up a Pixie-20 over the weekend so that I can run the stock motor and spliced the stick back together to mount up the stock geared 480. I still have to run a meter check(and remember to use a fully charged pack this time:< ) to see if I can use the stock prop on 3S w/o overamping either the ESC or motor. Anybody using the stock motor/prop on a 3S lipo? If so, what kind of numbers are you getting?

redgiki
05-07-2007, 08:16 PM
I did, but I think 20C batteries will smoke the stock motor in short order. 12C will work fine for 30-50 flights or so. If you do fly the stock battery on a newer-chemistry 3S LiPo, keep your full-throttle bursts low, because this bird will try to pump about 18A through the brushed motor... enough to fry it quickly. If you prop the bird down a bit, you can keep the brushed motor around 10.5-12 amps, which is really where you need it for good longevity with reasonable power output. The bird will come in around 22-24oz with the brushed setup, which means you're running about 100 watts/lb into the motor, and getting around 50-75 watts/lb out. That's pretty gutless, but it flies fine on the stock setup. It flies very 'scale-like'. You need a good hard throw (or a takeoff from asphalt), and give it lots of room to accelerate. Once it has some speed, it flies well, it just takes longer to get there on a brushed motor. If you go brushed, it's wise to avoid putting on the rudder, too, as thrust to weight is usable and flyable, but marginal.

If you have 20C batteries and stick to the 10x8 prop, you will be running a lot better on your watts/lb, but that stock motor won't last long. I fried mine around flight 18 or so on the stock motor, and switched to brushless.

buzzbomber
05-08-2007, 04:09 PM
Well, I hooked up the works to the wattmeter last night. Stock motor and prop, tanic 2150 3S, pixie-20. Battery fully charged, I was getting 12.9a avg at full throttle for 155-160 watts, voltage was staying just above 12v the whole test(no more than 30 sec total, spread out over a few bursts). Thrust "felt" more than adequate, and I have been very happy in the past with this type of plane at similar power density; I guess we'll see if this power suits me next time I get to the field.

I've been running a Permax 450 Turbo at similar wattages for over 50 flights with no performance degradation, but that's a better motor. From what I've read in the past, 13 amps and 150 watts doesn't seem too far out of a 480's "happy zone". Assuming I won't fly at full throttle all the time(I usually don't) I think it will be okay.

Redgiki, I guess we have different ideas of "gutless", since I've been happy in 5 years of electric flying with 60-75W IN on non-3D planes, but still, its troubling to me that you were getting around 18 amps on the same motor/prop combo thats yielding 12~13 amps in my plane. I can't figure why that is......my voltage was averaging 12.2V, so it can't be that I have weak batteries.

redgiki
05-09-2007, 08:05 PM
Redgiki, I guess we have different ideas of "gutless", since I've been happy in 5 years of electric flying with 60-75W IN on non-3D planes, but still, its troubling to me that you were getting around 18 amps on the same motor/prop combo thats yielding 12~13 amps in my plane. I can't figure why that is......my voltage was averaging 12.2V, so it can't be that I have weak batteries.

I no longer have the brushed motor -- or the P47 -- to provide graphs. The airframe has been donated to my neighbor, while the Park 450 is slated to go into my Ultrafly Ultimate, completion some time this summer when I get a spare 6-8 hours. I hope I didn't mis-speak, but my 18A figure referred to the Park 450 motor and 10x8 prop, not the brushed motor and 10x8 prop whch came in around 12A as you state. On a Park 450 and 10x8 prop, the P-47 is anything but gutless!

My friend's brushed Stryker motor came in at 18A on a brushed motor with a 5x5 carbon prop and 20C LiPo, resulting in destruction of the motor after only a few flights. To keep it down in the 10.5-12A range on that motor with a hot new battery, we would have had to prop down to around a 4.5x2.5 or so... which basically would suck for the heavier bird he was using that brushed motor in. We went to a 500-class brushless motor, and it flies fast enough to rip the wings off if we're not careful now...

The main reason I say the brushed motor and P47 were gutless together is due to my altitude (5200 feet). I apologize if I led anybody astray as to that bit of information, if I left it out, it wasn't intentional as I usually put that caveat in everywhere. Stock power systems on almost EVERYTHING flying at this altitude are generally gutless! The Stryker C, ostensibly capable of 80+ MPH and unlimited vertical, has trouble pushing faster than 60-70MPH in a dive at this altitude and falls out of vertical eventualy (though it's quite tall). Recommended power systems in my Great Planes Patriot end up requiring 300 foot takeoff runs. It affects internal combustion motors even worse here, as they not only suffer reduced power due to the prop having worse thrust, but the combustion itself is less powerful so the motor is generating less HP.

At or near sea level, I'm certain the brushed power system on the P47 is adequate. At 5000 feet, it required a very hard throw or else a long power-on glide before it can begin climbing out.

It's been nearly a year and a half since I flew on the stock brushed system, though.

buzzbomber
05-10-2007, 02:48 PM
Hey Red, no biggie. I feel a little better now that I know you: a) are at 5000' MSL and b) got approximately the same reading on the stock motor I did. Not sure without consulting topo quads what the elevation over at our club field is, but suffice to say it is substantially less than 5K--the nearest airport about 4 miles away is at 600' msl and we're probably within 150' vertical of that. Practically sea level in other words...

redgiki
05-10-2007, 02:59 PM
Yeah, lower elevation is much friendlier to the aircraft hobbyist. I think that's one of the reasons why model airplanes are much less popular here than in other areas I've lived... Newbies buy a nice trainer with the recommended engine, and they run out of runway on takeoff trying to get it off the ground.

The usual internal combustion rule around here is "size it up at least one class". If it calls for a .40, go to at least a .46 or .50. If it calls for a 400-class motor, drop in a 500. There's definitely a much more pronounced effect on IC than on electric, as you have to lean your mixture out WAY higher than the manufacturer's recommendations (both on the idle and high needles) in order to get adequate performance.