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Don Sims
06-22-2006, 12:41 PM
Hobby Lobby had them on sale for fathers day and I decided to pick one up. I've read good things about them on the forums and wanted another foamie that was low maintenance which thermals easily.

As always Hobby Lobby had the plane boxed up well and there was no damage to the inner boxes. It took two photos to show the inside of the box, even standing on a chair I couldn't get the entire plane in the photo.

Don Sims
06-22-2006, 12:51 PM
When I unpacked the plane and started to read the directions there were a couple of surprises, one was the plane has ailerons, the other is that there are molding bumps all over the plane.

The wing was bubble-wrapped and the instruction book impressive, I'll need to pick up a couple of servo extensions for the ailerons. Shoulda looked closer at the Hobby Lobby site to see it was four channel!! :eek:

Any ideas on removing the bumps or just leave the things? Multiplex has a CD-ROM with a building video and on that video they left the bumps.....

The CD is a nice supplement to the instructions which came with the plane.

firemanbill
06-22-2006, 12:54 PM
Looks cool Don, I think I'd just leave the bumps. You could sand them off but it I wouldn't thik it is going to affect the flight performance of it.

How big a span does it have. It sure does look pretty simple.

ragbag
06-22-2006, 02:24 PM
When I unpacked the plane and started to read the directions there were a couple of surprises, one was the plane has ailerons, the other is that there are molding bumps all over the plane.

The wing was bubble-wrapped and the instruction book impressive, I'll need to pick up a couple of servo extensions for the ailerons. Shoulda looked closer at the Hobby Lobby site to see it was four channel!! :eek:

Any ideas on removing the bumps or just leave the things? Multiplex has a CD-ROM with a building video and on that video they left the bumps.....

The CD is a nice supplement to the instructions which came with the plane.

I have used scrap foam from the parts to rub the bumps off. Unless you are going to paint or cover it, I wouldn't bother. It isn't that good of a finish.

Mine was interesting, I ordered it and ended up with the glider. They replaced it, I did have to pay the return shipping. ALso ordred two ESC a 12 and a 30. I have the 30.:(
Somehow they got shipped as seperate orders and I still don't have the 12.:eek:


.

Don Sims
06-22-2006, 03:22 PM
Hate to hear that Ragbag it stinks when orders get screwed up!! Thanks for the idea on using scrap foam!! :D

Bill here are the basic specs for the plane and a link to the HL page:
71" wingspan
44" long
645 sq. in. wing area

http://www.hobby-lobby.com/easyglider.htm

falingtrea
06-22-2006, 08:25 PM
Certainly is easy to put together. I did it in my office at work, a few minutes here a few there. Tried to maiden but it was too windy and I nosed it in. Thankfullly it was just a split seam and I glued it back together. I am just waiting fo another calm day to try again.

Don Sims
06-22-2006, 09:20 PM
Tim, did you use the CA or the hot glue?

ragbag
06-23-2006, 02:12 AM
Hate to hear that Ragbag it stinks when orders get screwed up!! Thanks for the idea on using scrap foam!! :D

Bill here are the basic specs for the plane and a link to the HL page:
71" wingspan
44" long
645 sq. in. wing area

http://www.hobby-lobby.com/easyglider.htm

The wayward controller arrived today!!!:D

Hard to beleive I know, but the 6x6x6 box that it was sent in had tire marks on it.:confused: No apparent damage. Holding the box till tested, in case I have to return it and have to prove that it arrived that way.

It came with all the connectors for a speed 400 setup, didn't order it that way and wasn't charged for it, shame to cut all those cute little connectors off. I have a standard of bullet and Deans, so byby cute little connectors. Too hot in the garage or I would probably be there right now.:)


.

Don Sims
06-23-2006, 02:19 AM
Yeow Ragbag! UPS or the USPS folks probibly drove a forklift over the box to test it's durability! :eek:

Don Sims
06-23-2006, 02:31 AM
I was a hot one here this evening also. While my wife was out mowing the lawn, I decided to go ahead and get a couple of hours in on the Easy Glider. She said I was more sweaty then she was when we came in a bit ago.....

The first thing that I did was to give the canopy it's first of two coats of paint. I had some blue paint on the shelve so used it instead of the black that was in the video.

The next shot is showing how the control rods are glued into the fuselage halves of the plane. The directions mentioned getting the correct rod in the correct hole. There are three layers to the control rods, an outer plastic sleeve, an inner plastic sleeve then a metal piano wire. One set goes into each side of the fuselage, the outer plastic rods are CA'd in, then the plastic and metal rods are inserted.

Don Sims
06-23-2006, 02:33 AM
Sorry for the out of focus closeups....

Don Sims
06-23-2006, 02:39 AM
Instead of using hot glue to hold my servos in the pockets, I used a dab-O Goop. The stuff holds well and peels off if I need to pull a servo for some reason plus the Goop is more flexible than the hot glue.

I used some clamps to hold the servos in while the Good dried for a while and started to set. Using the hot glue would work as well and dry faster for you.

Don Sims
06-23-2006, 02:48 AM
While the Goop was starting to set up I went ahead and soldiered the wires onto the motor for my speed control. Crud, I only had one Deans Male connector in my electrical parts box.... humm...

Lets see, an old Multiplex male connector on the motor, Multiplex female on the Multiplex brushed speed control that I had from a brushless conversion then my Deans Male connector on the other end of the speed control. All my battery packs have Deans Female connectors so I'm set now.

Can ya follow all that??!! :confused: :rolleyes: :o

Don Sims
06-23-2006, 03:06 AM
Checked the servos and they still weren't ready. Next up were the wings.

I was originally planning to have a rudder elevator setup on this plane and only had two servos for it. Since it has some great looking ailerons I went to the LHS in Jackson TN today and picked up a couple of more servos and some 24" extensions. I'm using some Hobby Lobby 6 gram cheapo servos who's brand name escapes me but they are clear if that helps. (Please don't make me find a link for you Bill!!!)

These servos have worked well for me in other foamies so I felt comfortable using these in the wings. There are wing panels on each side that you hide the servo extensions inside of and run a wing joiner through. You put CA on one side of the panel and kicker on the other side so you have to work fast. If this setup doesn't hold, then I'll add a thin layer of Goop inside of the panel and try that.

Don Sims
06-23-2006, 03:45 AM
Glued those panels in so fast I forgot to get a photo of the finished wing. I'll get one tomorrow... maybe.

The Goop had set up enough to CA the fuselage sides together. A ball bearing came in the accessory bag and I glued that into the back end of the plane as per the instructions. I also ran another tube for the antenna wire to run through the fuselage and out the back of the Easy Glider which I thought was a nice touch. Again, you put kicker on one side of the fuselage and CA the other.

I did a trial fitting first though to make sure that things would go together well.
Then ran the kicker, next CA, and lastly went from the front of the plane to the rear pressing down as hard as I could as quickly as possible.

Don Sims
06-23-2006, 03:52 AM
Things were going quite well overall and I could see light at the end of this building tunnel. The vertical and horizontal stabilizers were straightforward to install.

Take a look at the right hand photo of this post and see if you can come up with the same solution to my problem. At first, I thought it was an "Ohhhhh Cruuud!" moment, then I used the old noggin to work the problem through.

More tomorrow night!

falingtrea
06-23-2006, 02:41 PM
Tim, did you use the CA or the hot glue?

I used CA, but probably a little too sparingly.

Heidelberg Germany Flyer
06-23-2006, 08:06 PM
Hi Don!

Looks like you are doing a great job of building and describing each step...

I've got about a years flying with the Easy Glider and just love it for relaxing flying and gliding.

Please don't sand off the bumps as they help with the air dynamics and are designed to be that way.

If you're using a brushless motor, I Suggest that you use the pry motor mount so that you can easily change it, instead of gluing it in. The directions aren't very clear on this mount, so let me know if you need any help.

By the way don't throw away the box as you can use it to pack the wings and fuse for transportation. I'll show you how, later.

What kind of battery and what size will you use?

Don, I have some other ideas that I'll share when you are farther along.

At this point, it's important to make sure that the fuse stays straight... the internal tubbing gives it support to keep it straight.

Have fun building it.

HGF

Don Sims
06-23-2006, 10:18 PM
Thanks HGF, BTW, I graduated from Heidelberg American High School class of 75. Haven't had an opportunity to go back since then though. It was a great place to be a teenager at.

I used the foam and knocked the bumps down a lot so it's too late to follow that suggestion. :(

Glad you mentioned the box, I'll save it for transport on the bike.

Currently I am using 8 cell 2/3 A CBP-1150's that I had gotten from a member here at a great price.

Don Sims
06-23-2006, 10:37 PM
All I needed to do was to pull the servo arms, inner sleeves, and control rods to fix the control problem. The glued in outer sleeves were in the correct place after all.

Once I swapped them out they matched up correctly. Next I made a slice in the vertical stabilizer for a hinge and started to install all the control horns. The hardware was fairly good quality and the horns are CA'd into the different surfaces. It made things a lot easier to install the push-rod connectors before CA'ing the control horns onto the surfaces.

I'm also including a photo of the underside of the wing panel which I forgot to take last night! :o

Don Sims
06-23-2006, 10:52 PM
I hooked up a Berg receiver and the Multiplex speed control to center the servos and tightened all the push-rod connectors on the control surfaces. A couple of nylon ties straightened up the servo extension wires.

The hatch cover paint had dried so I put it on and took the Easy Glider outside for some photos.

Don Sims
06-23-2006, 10:58 PM
Here are some walk around shots of the plane before adding the stick-on decals that Multiplex provided with the kit.

Heidelberg Germany Flyer
06-23-2006, 11:36 PM
While the Goop was starting to set up I went ahead and soldiered the wires onto the motor for my speed control. Crud, I only had one Deans Male connector in my electrical parts box.... humm...

Lets see, an old Multiplex male connector on the motor, Multiplex female on the Multiplex brushed speed control that I had from a brushless conversion then my Deans Male connector on the other end of the speed control. All my battery packs have Deans Female connectors so I'm set now.

Can ya follow all that??!! :confused: :rolleyes: :o

Don,

Since you are using a brushed motor don't forget to solder a small capacitor between the motor connections. :cool:

HGF

Heidelberg Germany Flyer
06-24-2006, 12:00 AM
Thanks HGF, BTW, I graduated from Heidelberg American High School class of 75. Haven't had an opportunity to go back since then though. It was a great place to be a teenager at.

I used the foam and knocked the bumps down a lot so it's too late to follow that suggestion. :( (No problem!)

Glad you mentioned the box, I'll save it for transport on the bike.

Currently I am using 8 cell 2/3 A CBP-1150's that I had gotten from a member here at a great price.

Don, HHS is a great school. My son graduated from there and is now studying law at a British university...

Since the servo leads are so long you can prevent glitches by wrapping the ends of the extended leads a few times around a metal cheerio shaped ring at each end.

I asked about the battery size because I found that I needed to cut away some foam to allow more air flow... But, I'm using 2 and 3 cell lipos that are probably larger and need more air cooling. Also, I found that I got some glitches if I ran the antenna through the built in tubbing because it was so close to the batteries and hot wires, so I ran it out the side instead, away from the wires and batteries, and dug out more foam around the central unused tubbing so I could put in the lipos and have a better air flow.

HGF

Don Sims
06-24-2006, 12:59 AM
HGF, When you cut the foam away, did you use a kitchen type knife or melt it with a soldering iron? I've used both methods in the past on EPP type foam. The knife was much neater. I've flown the plane several times today and will post flight impressions after a few more build photos.

My dad was an ASA electronics warfare officer and H-berg was his last tour before retirement.

Don Sims
06-24-2006, 01:09 AM
The stick on decals are on a rather large sheet so it took two photos to show each side. You have the ability to really "pimp" the plane up (As my students would say.) or have that calm cool look.

Another nice touch that Multiplex had done was to include a diagram of a decal covered Easy Glider on the main decal sheet.

I took a middle of the road what looks good to me and applied the decals in about a half an hour. A technique that I learned watching the CD build video was to first cut off about 1/2 inch of paper backing from the cut out decal before applying and then peeling the paper off as you stick the decal. This technique actually worked quite well. The decals went on much smoother than normal for me.

Don Sims
06-24-2006, 01:25 AM
Here it is folks.......drum-roll please.......The Multiplex Easy Glider.

Weight without a battery was 1 lb. 11 3/8 oz. or 776 grams.
Weight with a battery (All up weight) came out at 2 lb. 1 7/8 oz. or 962 grams.

The instruction booklet is a good one overall. I used the drawings a lot more than reading the directions after doing an initial read through then exploring the CD the first night.

The drawings were sufficient for an experienced builder while someone new really needs to read the directions, watch the CD, then use the written directions in conjunction with looking at the drawings to get through the build.

Build time including taking photos was 5 hours and 20 minutes total.

Don Sims
06-24-2006, 01:50 AM
First flight.

Please let me get this off my chest; Man am I spoiled by brushless motors and lipos!!! :( :rolleyes: :o

In comparison to other brushed 8 cell gliders that I've flown over the years, the Easy Glider does do well. You need to give it a good heave at takeoff and allow the plane to get up to speed before giving it a lot of elevator. It goes in the direction that you point it and has an acceptable sink rate for the money.

Climb rate looked to be between 20 and 30 degrees depending on the lift. During the first flight, I wanted to see how many times that I could fly to altitude as well as try a loop or two with the plane. I was able to comfortably get three ascents out of it and it actually looped well for a glider.

The plane could move along at a brisk pace looking for thermals but rudder control when gliding was almost non existent. The ailerons worked great but I was hoping for some rudder.

I was unable to find any thermals that first flight and found that the Multiplex speed control allows the prop to windmill or turn even with the throttle all the way down. Now I gotta spring for some male Deans connectors and try one of my other brushed speed controls.

Don Sims
06-24-2006, 03:05 AM
During the next several flights I messed with the Center of Gravity and tried a few aerobatics. The CG that Multiplex recommends is very accurate. The Easy Glider flies best at the recommended 70 mm from the leading edge of the wing.

The plane rolls and flies better than I anticipated inverted. When forced to stall, it drops a wing then down she goes. I just let the Easy Glider pick up some speed and it easily came back to level flight. I also was able to stop the prop from windmilling by slowing the motor down as slow as possible then pulling the nose up to slow the plane down and the prop would stop spinning.

There were some Turkey Vulchers flying around this afternoon so I looked for some thermals and flew with them for a while. That flight lasted over forty minutes. The planes wing wiggled when I hit a thermal and lifted nicely. By using both the rudder and ailerons I had good control of the plane in lift.

Overall, I feel that is was a good value for the money but am missing the brush-less option. If you folks have any power setup suggestions or other flight comments, please feel free to post them here! I appreciate the comments and advice from you folks that posted!!

niffur
06-24-2006, 08:25 AM
I've been flying one of these for the past month, when it isn't too windy. Anything over 5 mph and it's almost unflyable. As to an earlier post about not having much rudder, I had the same problem on mine. I adjusted the pushrod in one more hole on the control horn and it started behaving better. I also had to get longer servo arms for the ailerons to get the +20 mm and -8 mm throw. You're right about the antenna though, I get some jitter too. I am thinking about replacing the metal pushrods with fiberglass ones. I don't like having the antenna sitting between two metal rods anyway.

niffur
06-24-2006, 08:30 AM
Oh, I forgot to say, I left the decals off and I sanded the little bumps off with 400 grit sandpaper. I also let my 12 year old son paint the canopy and all of the leading edges with his airbrush. It looks nice and it hardly added any weight.

Heidelberg Germany Flyer
06-24-2006, 03:40 PM
HGF, When you cut the foam away, did you use a kitchen type knife or melt it with a soldering iron? I've used both methods in the past on EPP type foam. The knife was much neater. I've flown the plane several times today and will post flight impressions after a few more build photos.

My dad was an ASA electronics warfare officer and H-berg was his last tour before retirement.

HD is a nice place to be assigned...

Don, what worked best for me was to take off a hacksaw blade and roll some tape over one end for a handle. You can bend the blade to fit tight spots and easily cut the EPP foam from different angles.

How was the maiden? I wouldn't fly it in much wind with a brushed motor as it doesn't have much power.

I'm using an Astro 20 brushless with lipos and can fly it in any wind, and I'm now doing smooth easy acrobatics with it. Flies great!

HGF

Don Sims
06-24-2006, 09:21 PM
Excellent suggestion on the blade HGF, thanks again for your words of wisdom!

After flying the plane several times this morning, I'm definitely spoiled with Lipos and brushless. Does the Astro 20 a direct drive or drop in the current gear box? Did you pick up a different gear box?

I love the practicality of outrunners but they would mess up the clean lines on the front of the plane with one. I have a couple of outrunners in other planes that do well on 2 cell Lipos and get ballistic on 3 cell.

Stock it does fly and get up to altitude well but I like that quick lift a brushless would provide.

ragbag
06-24-2006, 11:00 PM
Overall, I feel that is was a good value for the money but am missing the brush-less option. If you folks have any power setup suggestions or other flight comments, please feel free to post them here! I appreciate the comments and advice from you folks that posted!!


I am reading the build instructions as we speak. Went to the Multiplex home site and looked over their info.
They recomend their BL 400 as an upgrade:

http://www.nesail.com/detail.php?productID=4253&PHPSESSID=c12131b588878adb957bab55c2819c94




The BL-400 motors are “drop-in” replacements to “hop-up” any Speed 400 powered aircraft including the popular Multiplex models like the EZ Star, *EZ Glider Electric, *Space Scooter, Twin Star II, and others. You can also convert glow models up to .25 sized with the 6D when used with the universal gearbox in either 3.3-1 or 4.4-1.

This is also the perfect motor for mini heli's like the T-Rex or similar. Use with a 3S Lipo and 11 tooth pinion for incredible 3D performance. For 4S Lipo go with the 8D.

Available in 3 different winds (4, 6, and 8) in direct drive versions, but each are compatible with the Multiplex universal planetary gearboxes. All three motors are available with or without Multiplex’s “Castle Creations built” Electronic Speed Controls.


Rotor Magnet Neodymium

Motor KV (RPM/Volt) 3400

No Load Current 1.6A
Maximum Current 30A
Maximum Power 250W
Maximum RPM 50,000
Efficiency Range 12A-25A
Motor Only
M332452

Motor w/ 27A ESC M332458
Application Pylon / Aerobatic
w/ optional gear box

Universal Gear Box 3.3 - 1 M332465
* Prop Range 4" - 6" /
9" - 12" geared
Universal Gear Box 4.4 - 1 M332466
** Battery (Nicad/NiMh) 6 - 10 cell
** Battery (LiPo) 2 - 3 cell

English Metric
Weight 2.6 oz 74g
Dimensions 28 x 36 mm
Shaft 3.2 mm

©2003 Multiplex Modelsport USA


This might be what you ar looking for. Their motor is available through Northeast Sailplanes, that is the only place I have found that has it advertised.

http://www.nesail.com/detail.php?productID=4253&PHPSESSID=c12131b588878adb957bab55c2819c94

The 6D is what they recommend and it lists for $59.00. NE recomends CC controller. A pricey upgrade, but probably worth it in the long run.:)



.

Heidelberg Germany Flyer
06-25-2006, 12:56 AM
Nice looking, Don!

I put in an Astro 20 brushless motor/gear 803G system (Which is pricey) and a 3 cell lipo battery. Used the same rib mount, but set the motor in a bed of silicone. Also, shaved a bit off the tip of the plane to fit a better folding prop.

The heavier system adds a little weight for gliding, but it really moves along, and is a beautiful flier that will fly in any conditions. 3d it's not, but it's fun to buzz around and do some light aerobatics.

If you add a better motor, suggest setting your ailerons for full movement up and down, and also give it full rudder movement. You'll need to dig out more foam to fit a 3 cell lipo and give it more air flow. I use a lighter 2 cell when gliding.

To add more fun, I'm also using spoilerons for precision landings...

By the way, when you hand launch it, be careful not to catch your hat on an aileron wire connection. It did it twice. On one occasion, it took my hat off and flew with it doing a damaging dive on the runway. It was embarrassing!

HGF

ragbag
06-25-2006, 11:39 AM
Yeow Ragbag! UPS or the USPS folks probibly drove a forklift over the box to test it's durability! :eek:


Finaly got a chance to go over the controller. No damage apparent and test fine on the bench. Guess it is going to be the big test in the air.:)


.

Don Sims
06-25-2006, 01:33 PM
Good luck on that flight Ragbag. HGF and Ragbag, thanks for the power setup suggestions.

ragbag
06-25-2006, 09:11 PM
Good luck on that flight Ragbag. HGF and Ragbag, thanks for the power setup suggestions.

Glad to be of some help. Now I have a dilema.:(

This is a spite plane, because of derogatory remarks made about foamies at the local flying field.:eek:

Do I go BRUSHLESS or not??????
Decisions, decisions.

Will let you know, pictures at 11:00.
WKRP, Cincinnati.



.

falingtrea
06-26-2006, 05:51 PM
Ragbag, in order to use the existing gearbox, there is also a gear/hub brushless motor conversion kit you need that has a special pinion gear for the gearbox. Multiplex part number M332467 I think. Hobby People and Tower Hobby has em.

The only "problem" I have heard about the BL400 upgrade is that you have to glue the pinion for the gearbox onto the motor shaft. Some people have had it come loose. Guess it depends on how good you prep the motor shaft. Some people even rough the shaft up to get better adhesion.

ragbag
06-26-2006, 06:24 PM
Ragbag, in order to use the existing gearbox, there is also a gear/hub brushless motor conversion kit you need that has a special pinion gear for the gearbox. Multiplex part number M332467 I think. Hobby People and Tower Hobby has em.

The only "problem" I have heard about the BL400 upgrade is that you have to glue the pinion for the gearbox onto the motor shaft. Some people have had it come loose. Guess it depends on how good you prep the motor shaft. Some people even rough the shaft up to get better adhesion.

Thanks for the heads-up, But I am aware of the pinion upgrade. Some people use CA to lock the pinion. The best is green or red thread locker. Red is the best if you don't plan on making any changes I am told.

The CA does let go.



.

falingtrea
06-27-2006, 02:58 PM
When forced to stall, it drops a wing then down she goes.
Don, how severe does the wing drop?? When I hand toss my EG, it likes to drop the left wingtip after a while and I am not sure if that was supposed to be normal behavior. On my first powered attempt I think I pullled up too fast and caused it to stall. It made that left wing tip drop and ended up nose first into the ground. That was how I split the nose seam.

Don Sims
06-27-2006, 05:55 PM
Tim, your description fits a stall to a "T". I don't understand your first sentence though. Is it stalling right after a toss? Stock it takes a while to get on step. Perhaps 20-30 yards to get ready to gain altitude.

I find it gains the best altitude doing large circles in a bit of lift or doing circles into a breeze.

The wind was 20mph gusting to 40 on Saturday and I attempted to fly of course testing HGF's not much wind theory. He was right!! The plane went backwards out of my line of vision so I let go of the controls and hoped for the best. I had used a tall tree for reference and started the Walk Of Shame towards where I last saw the plane. Well over a mile later I found it on the ground. Tail broken in half, motor out, one servo stripped. Put it back together this morning and I need to pick up a servo gear set so it will be ready to go.

Moral of the story, don't fly in heavy winds!!

Don Sims
07-03-2006, 12:31 AM
Flew the plane several more times today and brought the camera. Donnie Lyons took the photos for me even though he flies slimers. :o Thanks Donnie for the great shots!! There was a lot of thermal activity and even with a lot of slow flybys for the camera I was able to get in a couple of great flights. The repairs that I made from last Sundays wind excursion did well!! :D

jooNorway
08-19-2006, 09:26 PM
I have flown my EG (the one without motor) for more than a year now. And although I have flown sailplanes for more than 25 years I have a lot of fun with this bird on the slope. Simpel but giving so much joy!

When it is windy I put a threadened rod (8mm) which I bought at a local hardware-store inside the wingrod. It has the same length and adds 300 gram to the weight. This stabilize the plane a lot in wind, and give more speed on the slope. Should work well on the electric version too if you run a suitable brushless setup providing enough power.

But the best fun is to use my Magister (with a 600 Watt brushless setup) and tow the EasyGliders for thermal seeking :p The only disadvantage is that I fly the TUG and have to watch my friends have all the fun thermalling around...
My other larger gas-TUG is flown by several persons, so I also can get towed!

Don Sims
08-20-2006, 02:30 AM
Sounds like a lot of fun Joo. How long is your tug line on the Magister? We've been wanting to pull up a non lectric Gentle Lady.

jooNorway
08-20-2006, 08:52 AM
I use as short line as 22 meters (appr 70 feet). Thought this would be a suitable lenght and it worked well. Only 3 flags on this. This is a 0,5mm perlon-line meant for small bungee-setups, you could use a thicker line I think since it might snap if you tow heavier planes...
The velcro-system for connecting line/glider have worked well, the glider-pilot just take a loop when he want to release. But of course it is more safe using an ordinary release in the nose of the sailplane. And I have a release on my Magister of course.

On the "large" TUG we have 35 meters of 4mm towline, and 5 large flags. Picture shows the first attempts to tow using my BigLift last year. My MPX Schampus (3,4 meter VS) behind. This TUG is flown by 3-4 other pilots than me, I want to hang after too. We have added more and larger flags to the line later.
The only surprice was this: Can it really be this easy and so fun??? :D

klinker
07-15-2007, 10:30 PM
Checked the servos and they still weren't ready. Next up were the wings.

I was originally planning to have a rudder elevator setup on this plane and only had two servos for it. Since it has some great looking ailerons I went to the LHS in Jackson TN today and picked up a couple of more servos and some 24" extensions. I'm using some Hobby Lobby 6 gram cheapo servos who's brand name escapes me but they are clear if that helps. (Please don't make me find a link for you Bill!!!)

These servos have worked well for me in other foamies so I felt comfortable using these in the wings. There are wing panels on each side that you hide the servo extensions inside of and run a wing joiner through. You put CA on one side of the panel and kicker on the other side so you have to work fast. If this setup doesn't hold, then I'll add a thin layer of Goop inside of the panel and try that.
How long should the aileron servo wires be? Total length that is?

Thanks
Klinker

Don Sims
07-16-2007, 12:30 AM
Welcome to WF Klinker! The 24" ones were a bit long but they worked out well for the plane. I used one in each wing.

phillo
08-14-2007, 01:16 PM
Don,

Thanks for your post on the Easy Glider.

It's been added to my favorites as I have been reviewing it over the last few weeks while I've been getting things together.

I'm new to R.C. flight and found a second hand example with 2 batteries, speed controller ( looks like it has the cap that HGF recommended ) motor and prop with fold back blades, SuperNova Charger for $100 AUS
It's a little knocked around, but that's fine with me as there wont be any tears if I stick it in the ground. Will be getting some lessons at a near by club.

The good fortune continues.

Looking for a transmitter and I happened upon a perfect condition JR3810 for $300 AUS with a 9 and 7 channel RX. The 7 looks like it will fit just fine. The JR3810 is way overkill for the moment but I wanted something future proof.

As you can tell I'm extra happy but need some advice.

The servos... well there aren't any. I believe 2 X Hitec micro HS - 55 for the wing flaps ( is that the ailerons ) and 2 X Hitec micro HS -81 for the tail flap and rudder. Been trying to find these on EBay
What other brands / servo number could be substituted?

Also the foam around the nose area is quite worn at the base under the motor. What would you recommend for the repair, is there a bog ( filler ) for foam. I'm thinking a fibre adhesive tape.

Been having a look around the Forum over the last few weeks and spotted an Aussie Regional Forum. Will make myself known there, but figured you would be the best chance for advice on the Easy Glider.

I noted that the last response here was mid 2006 but someone has just posted while I'm typing this.

Don, Thanks for the thread and look forward to your reply.

Cheers,
Phil
Melbourne Australia

AEAJR
08-15-2007, 11:53 AM
Multiplex is no longer selling thier packaged brushless systems, as far as I know, so if you want to go brushelss you have to figure out all the pieces yourself.

I spotted this on the NE Sailplanes page the other day. They have a packaged brushless upgrade which includes the Lipo pack.

For anyone who is interested in a packaged upgrade.
http://www.nesail.com/detail.php?productID=3612

Don Sims
08-16-2007, 12:28 AM
Phil welcome to the site and I apologize to you two for not catching your posts earlier. We've got several Easy Glider fans here on the forums who can easily answer your questions. Any micro size servo would work. Personally, Ive been switching to metal gear servos instead of the 55's because of a rash of striped gears on my planes lately. I don't know if it's my flying or if Hitec changed the manufacturing process on their gears. There's servos that you should be able to get from http://www.aircraft-world.com/ out of Japan if you can't find them down under. Regular CA can stiffen up that area if you have nothing else, but your idea of the tape can work too.

Be sure to scope out the beginners forum on how to make successful first flights. Ed A has posted some excellent threads on helping others.

phillo
08-17-2007, 10:06 AM
Phil welcome to the site and I apologize to you two for not catching your posts earlier. We've got several Easy Glider fans here on the forums who can easily answer your questions. Any micro size servo would work. Personally, Ive been switching to metal gear servos instead of the 55's because of a rash of striped gears on my planes lately. I don't know if it's my flying or if Hitec changed the manufacturing process on their gears. There's servos that you should be able to get from http://www.aircraft-world.com/ out of Japan if you can't find them down under. Regular CA can stiffen up that area if you have nothing else, but your idea of the tape can work too.

Be sure to scope out the beginners forum on how to make successful first flights. Ed A has posted some excellent threads on helping others.

Don,
Thanks for your reply. I'm yet to check out the beginners forum but will be doing so after I post this reply. Also appreciate your feedback on the metal gear servos.
Phil