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RW650
08-26-2005, 03:16 PM
Does anybody have one of the GWS Corsairs? I built mine about a year ago but performance was lacking and the controls were sluggish. This weekend I was bored and decided to do a makeover. I purchased a GWS 400 c motor and gearbox (it came with a 300), along with a 2C lipoly battery. I got rid of the stock aileron configuration and added a Y harness with individual servos for each aileron. I then removed the rudder servo and glued the rudder stationary.
Took her up last night for the new maiden flight and....WOW! Very responsive. More than enough power now with 1 flight lasting well over 20 minutes. Can you say vertical? I can't imagine what a brushless motor would do to this bird. She's faaassssssttttt! By the way, the weight of the new motor combined with less weight of the battery balanced her out perfectly. I was able to remove all of the weight putty from the cowling.

The stock aileron linkages were bent along the shape of the wing which caused a bunch of control issues for me. Has anyone else modified one of these planes?

D-turtle
08-27-2005, 02:22 PM
RW650,thanks for the info. I have one of these in the box. From all that I have heard they didn't fly all that well in the stock form. Now with the modifications you have stated this sheds a little light in the direction I need to go with this bird. The power system has not been purchased for this one yet, does anyone have a suggestion that would help Me combat the Zeros in the neiborhood??? Thanks D-turtle

flypaper 2
08-27-2005, 02:38 PM
You'd have to go brushless and lipo's to get the most out of these planes. I use Himax 2025 in the GWS gearbox and TP 2100 batt. My friend runs the corsair with the same power system and I the Zero. About equal in speed and power. 45 to 50 mph in level flight. Handle like a pattern plane when set up properly. My friends Corsair has two ail. servos. That's about the only change he made. Zero took a lot more to get it to work right. They look good one behind the other.:D Right out of Baa Baa Blacksheep.

RW650
08-27-2005, 03:03 PM
I've been told that brushless is definately the way to go, although I haven't made the jump yet. I will when I burn up my current motor. The GWS 400c motor I have in it now works great with the LiPo battery. Speaking of Baa Baa Black Sheep, I did mine up like Pappy's "Lulubelle" complete with 23 kill flags.

RW650
08-27-2005, 04:24 PM
Flypaper,
What ratio gearbox do you use with the brushless? Is you LiPo a 2 or 3 cell?

sasho
08-27-2005, 04:27 PM
thaks,for this but I have model."stuka" german fither.

John.G
08-27-2005, 10:12 PM
I myself have a GWS corsair and love it I was lucky to put a brushless from the get go and I'm glade I did.Himax 2015 with 6-1 gear,3/2100 lipos,12/6 prop,single servo as to keep weight down and yes its a pain as I keep resetting the wires back into the wing at times.But all in all its fun and tuff as last week I cartwheeled it across the paved runway and damaged the wing tips but that was an easy fix.No gear as I belly land it.Have fun and good luck,John

flypaper 2
08-27-2005, 11:42 PM
R W. Mine came with the C drive, which is 5.33 to1 .With a spacer from Himax the motor bolts right into the GWS gearbox.. Swings a 10-8 prop on three cells. Don't have to throw it, takes off vertically out of your hand. My buddys Corsair has the aileron servos out at the ailerons past where the wing cranks up. He cut a slit in the foam under the wing and forced the wire in it to the centre of the Fuse. Lands on the grass with no problems.
John G
Try a 10-8 prop for more speed and a little less pulling power.:D

John.G
08-28-2005, 03:20 AM
Hello Gord and thanks but this plane flys just great as it will allmost hover which impresses me thanks anyways.As to more speed don't need any as it will do everthing that I can ask from it.John

Foamer
08-28-2005, 04:00 AM
I set up GWS Corsair with a E-flite 370 4200 C gearing on GWS stock gear box, stock servo setup 3s Lipo's TP 850 she is very fast and will go where ever you point her.

flypaper 2
08-28-2005, 03:21 PM
Just a little story. I have the Zero, my friend has the Corsair. Had a midair that both flew away from. I noticed something fluttering down, thought it was my canopy. I did a low flypast to check it out, canopy still on. Dave said the elevator was sluggish but still worked. He did a low flypast too. Whole right side stab, elevator was missing. Made new from pink foam and still flies great. Zero had a nick about halfway out on the LE of the wing about 1/2 in deep shaped like the front of a stab.:D

berryulson
08-29-2005, 11:19 AM
The Corsair is a rugged bird. I reluctantly finally retired mine. (Weight of glue soon to exceed weight of foam.) With a Himaxx 2812 and 3s I first learned to KE with her. (It's now so much easier on everything else.) I really miss that plane. I didn't mind its slower roll rate compared to other warbirds. I was happy with the more scale-like flight.

vicman
08-29-2005, 12:56 PM
I have been happily flying mine for going on 3yrs now. Stock set-up and all.

L0stS0ul
08-29-2005, 09:39 PM
I am currently running the EPS 400C D Gear with a GWS EP9050 HD Prop and a 3 cell 11.1v 1320 mAh lipo in my corsair. Plane balances perfectly and flies very well. With the EP1060 HD Prop you can get a ton more power out of the lipo but it will cut down battery life. I think the Geared 400 motor is only going to do well at 10 amps or less.

The 9050 prop WOT on the bench pulls about 9 amps where the 1060 HD Prop pulls about 12 amps.

I have read that with the 3 cell lipo if you go with the EPS 400C C Gear and the GWS EP9050 HD Prop that set is really good but I've not tried it.

I'm going to be giving the BP12 brushless motor a shot next in my corsair. It's almost ready to fly.

RW650
08-30-2005, 03:06 PM
Well, I finally made the jump to brushless with a Hi-max 2025, 10/6 prop and 3 cell lipoly battery. Got it put in and I can tell she has lots of power. Can't fly her today though. Getting some storms and rain compliments of Katrina. Can't wait to take her up! I'll post again and let you all know how she flys.

berryulson
08-31-2005, 12:19 PM
Good luck RW. Have a blast!
Lots of good Corsair threads at RCHobbyHub. http://www.novellahub.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewforum&f=32

John.G
09-03-2005, 03:02 PM
Well I changed the gear on this plane 4/1 and went to a 10/8 prop it go alot faster but does not have the holding power that it did.It will still goes straight up and hold on the prop just not as much as before.But you know what I like this setup better as it go faster thanks for the suggestion on prop change.Now I'm going to take out my P-51 with a 4 blade on it with a 6/1 and the same motor setup(himax2015/4100) anyone got any suggestion on that one.Thanks,John

Twmaster
09-03-2005, 04:41 PM
Thanks for all the great motor info gang. I have a GWS Zero and ME-109 recently acquired from a local flyer and both need new power systems.

RW650
09-03-2005, 05:22 PM
Here is my Ace Simple Series Corsair recently completed. I'm running a Park 400 Brushless Outrunner and a 9X6 prop. The fuselage is built up balsa and the wings are foam. Power is supplied through a 3s Lipoly 1200 ma pack. Hopefully, if the weather stays good, I'll take her up this evening. Should be a real speed demon. Lots of thrust. I did the paint scheme like Pappy Boyington's "Lulubelle". Made the custom Black Sheep decals on my computer using the water slide decal paper you can get at the hobby store. Ought to be a blast!
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1208&stc=1&d=1125764746
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1211&stc=1&d=1125765320
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1212&stc=1&d=1125765320

Twmaster
09-03-2005, 09:10 PM
Would any of you fellows flying the GWS bird tell us your AUW??

Gullwing
09-05-2005, 08:21 PM
Mine is 17.4 oz with 3 cell lipo and brushless outrunner.

Twmaster
09-06-2005, 09:35 PM
Thanks!

If not too nosey what motor are you using?

Gullwing
09-07-2005, 12:47 AM
This is my setup:MPJet AC 28/7-30D (http://www.rcuniverse.com/product_guide/engineprofile.cfm?engine_id=1073) "red" outrunner; Eflite 20 amp brushless esc; Predator 3 cell 1600 mah battery; APC 8x6E prop. Pulls about 14 amps and the Watt-meter is showing between 140 and 150 watts. I can't remember the exact number. It was a few months ago. I fabricated a plywood firewall for the motor.

RW650
09-07-2005, 02:59 AM
That is a very cool setup. I like the firewall idea. How does she fly? I bet it is very fast.

Gullwing
09-07-2005, 03:46 AM
She goes where I point her. Yeah very fast, and stable. Got a little too brave 2 weeks ago and put her in the ground full power. Needless to say she is getting a overhaul. I figured it was time anyway. Spackle, new paint, balsa control surfaces, thinking of getting rid of the rudder and using one servo per aileron. I haven't made up my yet. For sure my favorite plane in the hanger..........Here are the latest pics....GW

Twmaster
09-07-2005, 05:39 AM
Thanks!

L0stS0ul
09-07-2005, 05:45 AM
Not Exactly sure what the weight is on mine. It's somewhere between 15-16oz. I'm currently running a BP-12 Outrunner with a GWS 8043 SF Prop on 2 different lipos... TP 3s 11.1v 1320mAh Lipo and GWS 3s 11.1v 1300mAh Lipo and the performance is amazing on both. It's about twice as fast as the stock 400 D Gear with the GWS 9050 HD prop. I'm currently pulling about 10 amps WOT on the bench on the BP setup. Neither battery is warm after intense flying and I love every minute of it.

RW650
09-07-2005, 04:58 PM
My GWS Corsair really took off after I switched to brushless and LiPoly's. I did a rework to the ailerons and gave each it's own servo. The performance is astounding. I bought another Corsair kit to build this winter. (If I can wait that long) I'm going to outfit it with a brushless Outrunner copying GW's firewall idea. I really like that. My current Corsair is not real pretty cosmetically, but she is a blast to fly. The new kit is unpainted, so I am free to do her up nice. I also bought a brushless eflite park 400 for my Tigermoth 400. Hope to get that put in today after work.

John.G
09-08-2005, 03:53 AM
Well I love it so much that I just ordered one of the slope version.I'll put the same as the last one(2015/4100 himax) but this time I'm going to change it to a race version goodyear one with the bubble canopy.I think I'll use the 4 blade from GWS but what gear would do the best or should I look at maybe a 2015/5400.Any suggestion from anyone out there?Thanks John

vicman
09-08-2005, 01:02 PM
Hey John are you copying the Lucky Gallon race 92? Thats what I did with mine. I used water based acrilic craft paint from wally world. I will post some pics later when I re-size them:(

John.G
09-08-2005, 01:29 PM
Hello Vicman I'll try and track down just what plane it is as a friend is building a larger one and I thought I'd build a small one.Please post some photos as I love to see other peoples work and things they did because you never know were an idea can come from.John

vicman
09-09-2005, 06:29 PM
Here she is just after the paint job. As mentioned previously I have been flying her for about 3 yrs now so its not quite as crisp but still an eye catcher:cool:

RW650
09-09-2005, 07:35 PM
Wow! I bet that's not hard to spot in the air! Cool.

John.G
09-10-2005, 12:12 AM
Now that's a good looking plane but not the one that I'm going to do.The one I was thinking about was the one that had the bubble canopy and was red& white but it also had the corncobb 36 cylinder in it not that I'm going to but that much into it just stretch out the cowl.John

Twmaster
09-10-2005, 12:26 AM
Now that a good looking plane but not the one that I'm going to do.The one I was thinking about was the one that had the bubble canopy and was red& white but it also had the corncobb 36 cylinder in it not that I'm going to but that much into it just stretch out the cowl.John

You mean this one:
http://aircraftresourcecenter.com/Fea1/001-100/Fea048_F2G-Corsair_Williams/images%20Part%204/073_.jpg

vicman
09-10-2005, 03:05 AM
:) Thanks guys. Keep in mind it is just a GWS with different paint. The full scale was a first gen Super Corsair FG-1 w/the big motor, long nose and scoop. I wanted to fly it more than work on it so I just left the profile of it alone.;)

RATA
09-12-2005, 05:51 AM
I was running mine with a Himax 2015-4800, 3cell 1500 lipo's, and a 1070 APC prop.I found that the Corsair need to be flown at some speed to remain stable, as soon as I would slow it down too much one wing would drop and she would enter in to a spin with little or no warning.

I am now running in my Corsair AXI 2208-20 3cell lipo's and a 8060 Master Airscrew. I have twice the speed and vertical is out of site when compared to the above setup.

John.G
09-12-2005, 12:04 PM
Hello Mike that would be the one very nice lines and its something different from the average Cosair.I post when I start the build it shouldn't take much time.John

RW650
09-21-2005, 02:56 AM
Here is my new GWS Corsair almost ready to maiden. Still need my 1/12th WW II pilot from the Hobby Store.
She's got an eflight park 400 brushless, castle creations 20 amp esc, and a thunder power 3S Lipo @ 1320 ma. Hope to maiden in the next day or two.
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1762&stc=1&d=1127267622
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1763&stc=1&d=1127267622
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1764&stc=1&d=1127267622

E-Challenged
10-04-2005, 03:47 AM
Here's some stuff I'm doing to my unpainted Zero kit to help it handle the power of my geared MiniAC1215/16 and 3S 1100 mah Lipo pack without making it any heavier than necessary:

1.Used carbon fibre rod instead of bamboo stick for wing.
2. Glassed the bottom of wing tips with epoxy and fg cloth.
3. Added carbon fibre rod to stabilizer.
4.Glassed ailerons with fg cloth and Min-Wax Polycrilic water based clear satin ( made them much stiffer)
5.Used Dubro micro aileron linkage fittings but had to use longer slightly heavier linkage wire and small sullivan tubing.
6.Installed tail wheel pivot though 1/16 ply epoxied to fuselage.
7. Sanded all the little pockmarks off and filled the moulding holes in wing and stab.
8. Sealing all sanded foam with Polycrylic and then airbrushing with color acrylic paint from craft store.
9. Used tubing on wire with epoxy wherever linkage wire enters foam control surfaces for durability.
10. May add strapping tape to bottom of wing, not sure I trust the wing strength/stiffness from end of carbon rod to wing tips.
11. Had to enlarge battery cavity for lipo pack, covered inside with epoxy and added 1/16 strips to suspend pack and promote good cooling on four sides.
12. Lowered leading edge and raised trailing edge to reduce wing incidence by sanding rear of wing saddle. Prevents tendency to loop at full throttle and improves inverted flight. Plan to fill gap with material from foam board.
13. Made wing mounts from ply sheet and pegs at front and two small nylon bolts at rear with tapped hardwood piece replacing stock foam piece and trapped nut.
14. Some people also add strapping tape to wing leading edge for strengh.
15. Used stiffer wire for main landing gear legs, total length with foam wheels 4 1/4 " to give clearance for 9" props.

Got most of these ideas from threads on E-Zone, hope they work.:)

Twmaster
10-04-2005, 03:51 AM
What does it weigh?

E-Challenged
10-04-2005, 05:13 PM
What does it weigh?

Not finished yet, will post weight with everything installed and finally painted and balanced. I used 5 minute epoxy thoughout, liberally in some places.

E-Challenged
10-05-2005, 06:52 PM
It's gonna come out at 19+ ounces sealed with Polycrylic clear and acrylic color airbrushed with landing gear and foam wheels, geared brushless and 1100 mah 3S Lipoly pack, Phoenix 25 and micro R/C gear and some beefing up to handle brushless power and aerobatics with high G pullouts. Thankfully, balance is coming out nice without need for nose weight.:)

PS: Had to open battery compartment through firewall to slide 3S PQ 1100 Lipo pack all the way to front of cowl. Also added provided clay to front of cowlto get 'er balance a little behind the spar slot. Weight is right at 19oz painted and ready to fly. Will replace clay with lead after test flights.

PS: It flew yesterday, even with wing incidence reduction it pointed skyward, needed a little downtrim, elevator sensitive.
Flew scale like, not fast, ROG'd and landed nicely.

soarrc
10-23-2005, 08:12 PM
Intresting reading. Just got a GWS F4U. This one has an additional sheet showing the use of 2 servos for ailerons. I want to use brushless rather than the stock motor. I have a Himaxx 2815- 085. Use it direct drive rather than with a gear reduction. Will this motor do it or would a geared unit be better? Don't want to spend any more than necessary.

Gullwing
10-23-2005, 09:30 PM
If it is an inrunner motor(which I think it is) you will have to use a gearbox or you will be drawing too many amps. I couldn't find that motor on the web, but all the Himax 2815s I saw used a gearbox. I use outrunners because I hate all the trouble that comes with gearboxes(thats just me)....Outrunners have quite abit of torque roll at take off or launch, but this can be handled with a computer radio or by hand with a little rudder input. I use the MP Jet outrunners. They have done well for me in both my GWS birds..........Here is my home page with some pics and videos of them ..........www.putfile.com/shagy Good luck with your F4U I love mine.................GW

soarrc
10-23-2005, 11:22 PM
The HiMaxx 2815 is an out runner motor. Do you know of a simple test stand where one could actually measure the thrust of a motor so several could be compared?

Gullwing
10-23-2005, 11:46 PM
The way I do it is just make a universal motor mount and mount it in a vise. That way you can mount different motors and props to see what you are pulling. Beware for some reason with the motor not being in an airplane people have a bad habit of putting there hands too close to the blades. Also remember that the motor and esc will not be getting the air it needs to stay cool so run times should be kept short. Also here are a couple of motor calculators I don't know if your motor is it but I use them quite alot. http://brantuas.com/ezcalc/dma1.asp and http://www.flyingmodels.org/motortest/index_e.htm I hope this will help.. GW

soarrc
10-24-2005, 12:04 AM
Thanks for the links to the motor calcs

Gullwing
10-24-2005, 12:13 AM
No problem let me know if I can help anymore. I don't know what I would have done with out forums like this...... For the first couple of months I think I spent more time in forums than flying.....LOL.....Happy Flying.........GW

Big_Bird
10-25-2005, 02:32 AM
GW, I have read with great interest your power train mod to your GWS Corsair. I bought my first electric today, a GWS Corsair. I plan to use the same MP red outrunner as you have along with a Cool Running A25 ESC and an X-Power 3s 1320 LiPo.

The A25 ESC is rated for BEC power of 2 amps continuous or 3 amps surge. Can I get away with 4 HS-55 servos (1 for each aileron plus elev and rud)? Why do they only rate the ESC for 3 servos with a 3 cell LiPo pack when these are very low power servos? I am using an FMA M5 receiver.

I plan to paint it like my other Corsair.

Ken

Gullwing
10-25-2005, 03:15 AM
I don't know about the Cool Running esc, but I was told that the e-flite 20 amp will do it. I have one in my Corsair, but I can't seem to make myself do it. I am running without a rudder right now. I will say this e-flite has 3D planes running this esc and four hs-55 servos on 3 cells. The guy at the LHS says they use 4 all the time..........I think it will work. It is funny you bring this up I was just thinking yesterday about giving it a try. I like having a rudder control. I think I will give a shot in the next couple of weeks and see. I put alot of time into my Corsair. I covered it with Econokote. Hard to do, and not mess up the foam......If you do before me let me know how it goes.......By the way nice Corsair. I can only dream of one that nice............I have built the GP 1/12 combat and am just waiting to convert to electric.........Hope this helped you.....GW

Big_Bird
10-25-2005, 06:05 PM
GW, I contacted E-Flite product support at 1-877-504-0233 and asked if 4 Hitec HS-55 servos could be used with the BEC on the 20 amp brushless esc. The E-Flite representative acted like I was speaking a foreign language. He didn't have a clue as to what I was asking about. He left the phone and came back with the answer of "yes it would be OK". That sure left me with a lot of confidence in his answer.


I found the specs, shown below, which may give a clue because they list High Torque and Standard servos. As far as I know an HS-55 is considered to be a Micro servo. I talked to a friend last night in Oregon and he said that they routinely use 4 HS-55s on their 3D planes with brushless outrunners and 3s Lipo. So I guess the question has been answered for me.

Ken

Servo Ratings with BEC Enabled:
CELLS SERVOS–HIGH TORQUE SERVOS/STANDARD



6–8 Ni-Cd/Ni-MH 3/4
9–10 Ni-Cd/Ni-MH 2/3
11–12 Ni-Cd/Ni-MH N/A N/A
2 Li-Po 3/4
3 Li-Po 2/3

Gullwing
10-26-2005, 01:47 AM
Thanks Ken, I am glad it can be done. I think I will start the process on my Corsair tomorrow. After thought: I just remembered I used a HS-81 for the ailerons I guess I will have to down grade and see if they still work as well. Then go for the four HS-55's

Big_Bird
10-26-2005, 03:32 AM
Thanks Ken, I am glad it can be done. I think I will start the process on my Corsair tomorrow. After thought: I just remembered I used a HS-81 for the ailerons I guess I will have to down grade and see if they still work as well. Then go for the four HS-55's
Hs-81s might be a little heavy on the current draw. I sure have gotten a chuckle out of the tech writer for the manual. He has no concept of which is the elevator, rudder, or ailerons when you compare the instructions to the photos.

Ken

Gullwing
10-26-2005, 04:17 AM
Yeah I never really go by the manual. I put it together the way I think it should be....so far I have gotten pretty good results. Once you put one GWS together you can build anything they have. I also have a P-51D from them. Went together fairly easy. I don't like the way it flys. Don't get me wrong it will do anything I have tried to make it do, it's just not a fun flyer. Too much work.......Here are a couple of pics

Big_Bird
10-26-2005, 03:58 PM
That's a very good looking P-51. Get a little more specific about what you don't like about how it flies.

I noticed that you are not using the gimpy doll buggy wheels. Me either.

Yesterday I ordered the rest of the accessories for my plane with the exception of the ESC. I'm still waiting for a reply from Cool Running.

vicman
10-26-2005, 04:05 PM
:( I concurr regarding the P-51. I sold mine with out the motor for $5 at a swap meet. The Corsair is a much better flier.:cool:

Big_Bird
10-26-2005, 06:20 PM
Here is the answer that I got back from Cool Running:

Hi Ken,
Sorry for not getting back to your 1st email sooner. Yes, you can run 4 HS55s with the A-25; it has a "dual BEC" (two voltage regulators) and can take 2A constantly and 3A surge.

Best Regards,
Chuck Clark

support@coolESC.com
408-735-8435
www.coolESC.com or www.coolrunningUSA.com

Gullwing
10-26-2005, 11:51 PM
Now you can order the esc, well it looks like at least two esc's will handle the load, I bet most of them will. On the P-51 it is just a handfull, I know Mustangs in general are a handfull. I guess I was expecting something different with the GWS model. I was up kind of in your neck of the woods(Weatherford TX) about a month ago and decided to have a fly in my sister's back 40. I took out the Mustang and gave her a toss. Lets just say after almost taking out the neighbor's house twice I was happy to get her back on the ground. I normally fly at my local park and it is wide open, so objects(other than the ground) do not get in the way. Thing is I know the Corsair would done just fine. It just seems to have more control than the P-51. I thought maybe it was the way I put it together, but I have talked to others who say the same thing, they are just hard to control. I like more relaxing flying in general....So if you have more questions just ask I'm sure me of someone on here can help you out, and post some pictures when you can of your new bird........Happy flying..GW By the way thanks for the compliment on the P-51....

Gullwing
10-27-2005, 12:07 AM
Vicman, I don't think I would part with it for 5 bucks, but I totally agree with you on the Corsair..................GW

Big_Bird
10-27-2005, 02:17 AM
GW not much to take photos of right now. I'll be glad to post photos when I get further along. I took a pallet knife and spread a very thin coat of the light weight spackling over the whole plane. I couldn't stand all of those little holes. I've just about finished sanding it all off. The surface looks 100% better. I've only seen one GWS warbird and it looked really rough. I know, it probably doesn't effect the flying but looks is important to me.

Did you mount the receiver in the pocket behind the rudder and elevator servos?

I ordered the Cool Running A-25 ESC. My 50 mhz ham band FMA dual conversion M5 receiver came in today. The rest of the pile of goodies should come in soon.

Ken

Gullwing
10-27-2005, 02:43 AM
Yeah looks are important to me too. That is why a covered this one in Econokote. Took some time but well worth it. I mounted my reciever in front of the elevator servo. I was mistaken last night when I typed aileron servo was HS-81, I used two HS-55 in the wings for the ailerons and a HS-81 for the elevator. Reason for this is I ran two pushrods to the elevator surfaces. I did not like the way one went further than the other. I will post a pic when I get to my other computer...........GW

Gullwing
10-27-2005, 04:15 AM
Here are some pictures of my Corsair.

Big_Bird
10-27-2005, 06:11 AM
GW, all the work with the Econokote was well worth it. It looks great.

I sure like your idea about 2 push rods to the elevator. Did you still use the U shaped wire on the elevator? Are those 15 little squares in the kit the hinges? Did you use them or put better ones in?

I only count 3 control horns in the kit. Did you go to the LHS to get additional ones for the ailerons?

How did you mount the HS-55s in the wings? Did you fill the slot for the torque rods?

Is putting the wing star upside down on the wing a distress signal like flying the American flag upside down? Just Kidding.:D

Ken

Gullwing
10-28-2005, 12:23 AM
Hey Ken you were not supposed to notice the star on the wing. Long story short. I had the wing off when I put them on and had the wing backwards.:D Thanks for the compliment on the looks. On the elevator I did use the u shaped rod. The second rod was not an after thought I just wanted to see if one would do it with the rod. It didn't, I had the problem on my first F4U and thought ahead on this one. I did not use the suppied hinges. I used Great Planes CA hinges and cut them in half and prebent them to loosen them up and used 5 min. epoxy. I had some extra control horns from other models laying around. I used the center hole and cut and rounded off the tips, reason is with no gear the horns and the servos hit the ground on landings, so I recommend landing in a soft grassy area. I didn't fill in the the slots for the touque rods, I ran the servo wires through there and covered over with Econokote. On the servos in the wings......I placed the servo on the wing where it needed to be and traced it with a marker. I used a standard blade(I think a #11 not sure) anyways short enough it would not go all the way through the wing. I cut on the lines which turns out slightly larger than the servo(that leaves room for the double-sided tape). I used a flat tipped blade to dig out the center to the right depth. I then covered the wing and cut an X in the servo holes and installed the servos with the tape. They are very stable. I went with Z bends in the ends and a V bend in the middle to save weight, and there is less junk there to catch the grass on landings. Oh and I use 8x6E prop. I started with an 8x4, but noticed I had alot of room on the amps so I went up on pitch........BIG DIFFERENCE!!!!! Also being a belly lander leave the brake off on the esc, that way the prop normally goes horizontal on landings. Leaned that the hard way............Keep me posted.........GW

Big_Bird
10-28-2005, 02:53 AM
Thanks GW.

soarrc
10-28-2005, 01:55 PM
I am doing mine with out landing gear. Am looking for some photos of the real bird as I believe that they carried ordance and or extra fuel tanks under the wing. May try to put a foam rail that will look like a hard point for ordance either outboard or inboard of the servos. May give them some protection and not cost to much in weight. Like the idea of 2 push rods on the elevator and kind od thought of it but didn't do it. Will try with out and can change it latter if I need to.

Big_Bird
10-28-2005, 06:26 PM
GW, is the "V" bend in the push rod there to allow for small adjustments? Since I am using 2 push rods I don't think that I will use the U shaped piece.

I've changed my mind and think that I'll stick with one aileron servo for now. I read a neat idea on RCGroups. You can buy the little antenna tubes from the LHS that they use for rc cars. These are very flexible and will lay down in the trough on top of the wing. The guy said that the aileron torque wire can be straightened on the aileron end and slipped through the antenna tube. It can be re-bent one time only. I bought some extra wire if this becomes a problem. There is no binding with this method and saves the weight if one servo. The trough can be filled in with light spackling. I ordered 4 HS-55s so this will leave me a spare.;)

Ken

Gullwing
10-28-2005, 11:59 PM
Yeah the V bend lets me fine tune the the control surfaces, it also will be the first thing to bend if I land hard.......Saving the servo in some cases. I read that about the antenna tubes. I found that the wire tends to move up and down or in and out no matter what you do. Let me know how it goes. If it goes well I will try it on the GWS build I decide to do. I am getting into helis slowly and haven't put any thought into what plane I am going to build next. More than likely another warbird. One other thing you can do is take some of the tube and make the hole in the control surface the size of the tube and glue it in. Leave the rod loose in the tube so it can slide better and also it will save the foam from getting hollowed out. I thought of making balsa control surfaces, but it was going to take too long so I just used the foam..... I think I will go with the balsa next time around and see how it goes.........Good deal on the spare servo, you never know when you will need it...............GW

WWI Ace
10-29-2005, 12:53 AM
Tell us how you covered your plane with Econocote. Been thinking about doing this, just not sure of the process. Steve

WWI Ace
10-29-2005, 12:56 AM
Gullwing, by the way, I'm from up by Amarillo, Texas. Does the wind blow there as much as it does here? Steve

Gullwing
10-29-2005, 01:01 AM
Hey Steve. It is pretty windy down here except for summer. Sometimes you can catch a good spring or fall day. The big birds can fly about all year round. Being this close to the gulf you get north and south winds fighting each other all the time.......I guess where you are you get prevailing winds all year long. What size aircraft do you fly?........GW

WWI Ace
10-29-2005, 03:39 AM
I'm flying speed 300-400 size planes. I have some WWI and WWII stuff. I also have an E-Starter that I'll probably put on skis when it snows this winter. I also have a couple of 3-D planes. I usually fly either early in the morning or late in the evening when it's the closest to being "calm". I'm a CNC machinist and there is a large empty lot by the shop where I can fly at lunch or break if it's nice. My boss flies too so it works out well. A bunch of the guys come out to watch us fly. I really think they are waiting for us to crash for their entertainment. Usually I fool them by landing safely but sometimes!!!! Steve

Gullwing
10-29-2005, 03:47 AM
Thats sounds cool. I fly early in the mornings. The place where I fly(local park)gets pretty full by evening. I wish I could fly at lunch. If my boss saw all the planes I have he would probably give me a pay cut thinking he pays me too much. I'm an autotech by the way. Trying to find something else to do(getting to old to handle it)LOL. Now if I could just get my wife to take that promotion I could quite and go to work for a hobby shop.LOL You need to post some pics of your stuff.........Well keep em in the air..........GW

WWI Ace
10-29-2005, 03:48 AM
Gullwing, you still didn't explain your Econocote covering method!!! Enquiring minds want to know!!!!! Steve

Gullwing
10-29-2005, 04:16 AM
Sorry missed the post..... Well foam being solid you can't(well I guess you could just 4 times as hard)cover it in large sheets. I used a 200 degree iron and in small pieces I over-lapped piece after piece after piece. You can't leave the iron in one place too long the foam will worp. Everyone told me it would melt, nope mine just kept trying to worp. Easy fix in one word HEAT GUN...... straighted it right out. I would estimate around 750 to 1000 pieces of covering. If you look real close you can see it, but at short distance you can't even tell. It took about a week give or take. Hurricane Rita took aim at us so I had to put it off a few days. I cover the bottom of the wing first and then over-lapped the top. The fuse, I started at the top and worked my way down. If there are any dings or dents in the foam just go over it with the heat gun and the covering expands out leaving a void and you can't tell it was ever there...........Here is a link to my RC Universe gallery page http://www.rcuniverse.com/community/profile.cfm?section=gallery&memid=166048........................GW

Big_Bird
11-06-2005, 10:53 PM
I am ready to drill the 1 mm holes through the cowl into the plastic blocks. Once I have the cowl in the proper location, how do I locate exactly where the 4 holes go? Do you have a better way of mounting the cowl?

Ken

Gullwing
11-06-2005, 11:04 PM
Well Ken, that was the same thing I was thinking when I got to that point. I did the best way I could which was just pushed on the cowl until I thought I could feel the plastic blocks. I don't know if I got lucky or if it just worked...............Good luck..............GW

Big_Bird
11-06-2005, 11:19 PM
GW that might be what I ultimately have to do. I've even thought of putting the screws in the blocks and see if I can locate the heads through the cowl.

I believe that have never seen a prettier but more poorly written instruction manual in my life. I think the term "sucks" might be appropriate here.

Ken

Gullwing
11-06-2005, 11:25 PM
Yeah "sucks" works for me. When I got my first GWS model, I gave up in about an hour. I walked away and said the h#$% with it. After a calmed down, I just decided to put it together with out the instruction manual. It turned out pretty good. Now that I have put 3 together, I have learned tips and tricks. I wanted to burn the manual the first day.....LOL........GW

Big_Bird
11-07-2005, 12:37 AM
A few minutes after I asked the question I hit upon the solution. Take a pencil and lightly draw draw 2 intersecting lines across the center of each pad. Put masking tape around the front end of the fuselage to hold the cowl snug. Position the cowl. Take a straight edge and place it across the cowl inline with the marks and draw the 2 intersecting lines on the cowl. Of course the straight edge won't be flat on the cowl. Take a T pin and press it into the intersection. This will mark the pad. Remove the cowl and drill the cowl and pad separately moving the position of the hole to match the center of the pad. Put the cowl back on and secure it with one screw then do the other holes one at a time. It's real easy.

Where in the world do you find a screw driver bit to properly fit those screws? I've been using a small jewelers flat bit. Wish I could find a phillips bit that size.

Ken

Gullwing
11-07-2005, 12:56 AM
Good idea Ken. I never thought about doing that. I will have to use that the next time. On the screwdriver, I use an eyeglass driver set. I think I got mine from Home Depot. Don't hold me to that. I have had them for so long I can't remember for sure. Your plane is coming along nicely I see. Keep me posted.........GW

Big_Bird
11-07-2005, 11:22 PM
Hey Doc,

The secret is not to crash it.:D I recently flew a friends electric Funtana and WOW what a rush. This Corsair should be pretty tame compared to my other Corsair which has a 95cc engine.

I saw a post somewhere where a guy had installed carbon fiber rod reinforcments in the sides of the fuselage right above the wing extending pretty far forward. I might try that. Do you think it would help?

Ken

Gullwing
11-08-2005, 12:06 AM
Hey Ken I put the carbon rods in my P-51, it did help. My second flight(before the outrunner upgrade) I put it hard into the ground nose first. Did not do much damage at all. Thing is, you have already glued the fuse halves together so it is too late. Don't worry about it though I didn't put any in my new Corsair. Like you said the secret is don't crash it........GW

Gullwing
11-08-2005, 12:16 AM
I have another pic I will post later.

Gullwing
11-08-2005, 02:14 AM
This pic was taken after the maiden of my first corsair. Believe it or not this plane had many more hours in the air. Foam safe CA is great, I think it flew better after the glue-together..............GW

Big_Bird
11-08-2005, 04:18 AM
This pic was taken after the maiden of my first corsair. Believe it or not this plane had many more hours in the air. Foam safe CA is great, I think it flew better after the glue-together..............GW
What a mess! I'm seriously going to try to avoid that. I fly a lot more since I retired 6 years ago and it seems that over the past few years as I've gotten older (63) my reflexes have gotten even better.

By the way, what caused the crash?

GW do you hand launch from in front of the wing or behind the wing?

Ken

Gullwing
11-08-2005, 11:38 PM
It was a little of alot..........Number 1: That was my first low wing plane and flight (inexperience). I was handling it very well if I do say so myself. Number 2: I was using one of those rinky-dink O ring type prop adapters, and the O ring came off with the prop. I had two choices. Put into the ground at a pretty good rate of speed or keep going straight and hope to miss all the trees. I didn't miss the last tree..LOL
I launch behind the wing with the nose slightly up but not too much. I push the throttle all the way forward and I give it a gentle toss. Get ready to grab the aileron control because it will tend to torque to the left. .........Oh and by the way I feel rude, I am Cliff....I just noticed I had never given you my name............Talk to you later....

sikorsky
11-09-2005, 12:22 AM
Normally I laminate carbon rowings (single lines of carbon) to the fus-side, and esspecially for parkflyer cowles, a 80 gram carbonsilk inside of these.
Since that, my crashes are little bit more protected.

Big_Bird
11-09-2005, 04:21 AM
It was a little of alot..........Number 1: That was my first low wing plane and flight (inexperience). I was handling it very well if I do say so myself. Number 2: I was using one of those rinky-dink O ring type prop adapters, and the O ring came off with the prop. I had two choices. Put into the ground at a pretty good rate of speed or keep going straight and hope to miss all the trees. I didn't miss the last tree..LOL
I launch behind the wing with the nose slightly up but not too much. I push the throttle all the way forward and I give it a gentle toss. Get ready to grab the aileron control because it will tend to torque to the left. .........Oh and by the way I feel rude, I am Cliff....I just noticed I had never given you my name............Talk to you later....
Cliff (Clifton is my middle name) that's good info. I'm using an MP Jet outrunner with a 3 mm collate adapter and an acorn nut on the front. No prop saver for me. When I first put the fuse together I measured the right and down thrust on the stick motor mount that I didn't use. 2 degrees right and 1 degree down which I incorporated on the radial mount using spacer washers. This should help with the torque problem. I'll adjust as needed.

I think tomorrow may be painting day. All of the equipment has been mounted. I'll post plenty of photos before I fly it just in case.

Sikorsky, thanks for the suggestions. I'll put those ideas into my next electric.

Ken

Gullwing
11-09-2005, 05:33 AM
I don't feel so alone in the world now.......LOL My full name is Clifton. Everyone else I have met have had Clifford as their full name. Glad to see another Clifton.........I did the same thing on the the mount I just used shims behind the plywood motor mount instead of the washers. I can't wait to see pictures. Well good luck with the painting..............Cliff

FinnFlyer
11-11-2005, 05:38 PM
Thought I would show off my new creation.:D

I pulled my Corsair out of mothballs to have something to put on the set of floats I bought.:eek:

I engineered it to transfer back to wheels.:)

I have not maidened her with the floats yet. I will update.

Big_Bird
11-12-2005, 03:15 AM
I completed it this afternoon. I couldn't stand putting those out of scale stars and bars on it so I cut out a set from Monokote trim sheet. Being new to electric I felt like the tiny hole in the rear might restrict cooling air flow too much because I won't be just slow flying this one around. Notice the aux air hole in the bottom. Yea, I know it looks bad but you won't see it from the side or top. I added clear packing tape to the bottom to help with the scuffing. The ready to fly weight is 17.5 ounces. The motor produces a lot more thrust than 17.5 ounces.
A few stats:
Red MP Jet outrunner
DualSky 1320 mah X-power 11.1v Lipoly
Cool Running A-25 esc (25 amp)
FMA M5 dual conversion receiver on 50 mhz
3 Hitec HS-55
APC 9 x 6 slow flyer

Ken

Gullwing
11-12-2005, 03:32 AM
Ken that is a great looking Corsair. I have to admit it looks a whole lot better than my first one. I bet it flys as good as it looks. You ought to get alot of trust out of that 9x6 SF prop. If it flys a little slow for your taste go with the 8x6E you won't disapointed. I have never had any trouble with the anything heating up so you should be more than fine. Have you does any amp draw tests. I would like to know how many that setup pulls. So when you think you will able to maiden? I don't know about up there, but it has been pretty windy down here. I am finishing up another F4U. I have had it for a year and am just now finishing up the glow to electric converson. (1/12 scale) Well Ken let me know how she flys. These are fun little birds..........Happy flying ........Cliff
PS Finnflyer that is the first corsair I have seen on floats, Looks cool........

Big_Bird
11-12-2005, 03:59 AM
Cliff, I added more photos above. I plan to fly it as soon as the wind slows down below 10 mph.

ken

Gullwing
11-12-2005, 04:09 AM
Yeah I was just looking at them you did a really good job on keeping the fuse neat. It took me awhile to learn to keep all the wires and things in order. Really without a doubt that is the cleanest most well thought out foamie I have ever seen. I see you went with dual elevator setup. HEY you got the stars right!!!!!!!LOL. Let me know how it goes...........Cliff

Big_Bird
11-12-2005, 05:28 AM
Cliff, you asked earlier about amp measurments. I haven't done any. I've thought about getting one of the fancy watt meters if I stay into electrics. Right now I have 5 giant scale planes that I fly regularly and I'll be checking them over for next season.

On the dual elevator setup, did you notice how I made the connection near the elevator servo with a small wheel collar? It holds really tight and is still adjustable. I may go back and take those goofy looking V adjusting kinks out by replacing with new wires.

It only takes a little extra planning to make the insides look neat. Thanks for the complement. The hardest part was fixing a place for the battery as far forward as possible.

Ken

SBR_RV
11-12-2005, 05:29 AM
wow, thats a realy nice set up there

Big_Bird
11-12-2005, 05:10 PM
wow, thats a realy nice set up there

Thanks.

Finn, I'll be looking for your flight report of your Corsair on floats. I'll have a flight report when the wind dies down.

Ken

Gullwing
11-13-2005, 12:59 AM
Ken, I wanted to ask a question, does that HS-55 servo strain any on that dual elevator setup? I want to pull the 81 out to put it in my 1/12 scale and use a 55 I have laying around for the GWS. Let me know when you get a chance. Thanks...........Cliff

Big_Bird
11-13-2005, 05:19 AM
I haven't flown it yet Cliff but the 55 sure seems more than powerful enough. It moves both halves with authority. I'm not afraid of it at all. I didn't use the U shaped wire.

Ken

Gullwing
11-13-2005, 05:46 AM
Thanks Ken. I will give it a try.........Cliff

Big_Bird
11-13-2005, 07:19 PM
It flies GREAT!

About an hour ago I put two flights on it. The only trim needed was one click of up elevator. I flew on low rate elevator which was plenty.

It is very fast on the 9x6 prop with unlimited vertical as long as the battery lasts. Most of both flights I flew at 1/2 throttle or less.

A slow landing is really easy. Now I'm going out to a real flying field and fly with the big boys.

Ken

qban_flyer
11-13-2005, 07:59 PM
It flies GREAT!

About an hour ago I put two flights on it. The only trim needed was one click of up elevator. I flew on low rate elevator which was plenty.

It is very fast on the 9x6 prop with unlimited vertical as long as the battery lasts. Most of both flights I flew at 1/2 throttle or less.

A slow landing is really easy. Now I'm going out to a real flying field and fly with the big boys.

Ken

Glad to hear you very happy with it. It's a rather nice looking bird you have there.

I have the Zero with a souped up power plant (2015-4100). Great flying machine, it tracks as if on rails. :)

Gullwing
11-13-2005, 10:01 PM
Alright!! It's great to hear that the first flights went smooth. I really love mine. I think I will try the 9x6 slowfly prop.(just to see) Again that is one great looking bird. I am so glad it flys as good as it looks.........So what's next.....LOL Keep in touch..........Cliff

Big_Bird
11-14-2005, 01:05 AM
qban, thanks for the complements. I may try the Zero someday.

Cliff, I went out to the Golden Triangle field (one of 4 clubs that I belong to) and put 7 more flights on the Corsair. I didn't have a single problem. The speed and climb really impressed some folks. I tried an APC 8x6 SF prop but only for one flight. I like the APC 9x6 SF the best.

What watt meter do you guys use? I want to get one.

Ken

Gullwing
11-14-2005, 01:10 AM
Glad to hear that there has been no problems. Try an 8x6E you get more speed, not that I think you need any the way you discribe the flights. I use the MPI MX 8120 http://www.maxxprod.com/mpi/mpi-9.html It is at the bottom of the page. I got mine at my LHS. I paid about the same as the web price with shipping. ...........Cliff

soarrc
11-14-2005, 06:43 PM
Nice job. finished mine and flight tested yesterday AM. It flew great. It came out at 16.2 oz. I went with a Kokam 3 cell 11.1v 910mAh battery. Used a HiMaxx HC 2812-0850 outrunner with a Castle Creations 25 ESC. I did use a HS85BB servo for the elevators, as I set it up with the dual pushrods. Didn't use the wire to connect the 2 elev halves. Should have used an extra hinge inboard of the control horns. But a HS55 servo in each wing. Stuck then in with the control horn. Maybe should have put then on their sides but wanted access to the screw. Used mini Dubro easy connectors on the control horns. Using an APC 10/7 prop and a Shadow 3 progamable RX. has 7 channels and weighs 8 grams.

qban_flyer
11-15-2005, 04:09 AM
But a HS55 servo in each wing. Stuck then in with the control horn. Maybe should have put then on their sides but wanted access to the screw. Used mini Dubro easy connectors on the control horns.

How and where in the wing did you mount your HS-55 servos? I'll be doing a Spitfire next and would like some tips on dual servo mounting an a GWS wing. :)

Big_Bird
11-15-2005, 05:31 AM
Qban, I only used one HS-55 servo in the wing. A stronger servo would only use more power and not gain you anything. I think that 2 servos would be a waste and add weight. The secret is to install the torque rods so that they are near frictionless. My Corsair is very responsive on the ailerons. It has a high roll rate.

I can't take credit for this idea but here is how I did it. Go to your LHS and buy a couple of antenna tubes for RC cars. Add 5 minute epoxy to the foam ditch. Bury the tube, which is very flexible, in the foam ditch and hold it until the epoxy sets up. Make sure it comes out in the right place on the aileron end. Make new torque rods to replace the pre-bent ones. Use a propane torch and needle nose pliers to bend the little circle for the grommet. Put a drop of 3 in 1 oil in the inboard end of the tube. Slide the wire through the tube. While holding the wire at the correct angle, bend the L on the aileron end. Notice how smooth the torque rod is. After using a piece of sharpened brass tube, the same size as the antenna tube, to drill a hole in the aileron, I epoxied a short length of antenna tube into the aileron to accept the L end of the torque wire.

The photo shows the installation that I did and the tube on the left side before I filled in the ditch.

One more advantage to a single servo is that you have a very clean bottom of the wing with no projections (servos and horns) to get in the way. Saturday afternoon I landed 6 times on a Petromat runway with absolutely no damage. I probably could not have done that with 2 servos.

Ken

SBR_RV
11-15-2005, 06:21 AM
what prop would you guys sugest for me to use on my himax 2025-4200?
ill be running a 30amp esc and until i get me some new liops, a nimah 9.6v @ 800mah. i know its gonna suck with that battery.
the plane is GWS mustang

Big_Bird
11-15-2005, 02:18 PM
what prop would you guys sugest for me to use on my himax 2025-4200?
ill be running a 30amp esc and until i get me some new liops, a nimah 9.6v @ 800mah. i know its gonna suck with that battery.
the plane is GWS mustang
Wish I could help but, being a newbie to electrics, these motor numbers mean nothing to me. These props are so cheap that you can afford to get 3 or 4 of various sizes and decide which one you like the best.

Ken

soarrc
11-15-2005, 02:23 PM
How and where in the wing did you mount your HS-55 servos? I'll be doing a Spitfire next and would like some tips on dual servo mounting an a GWS wing. :)

I put them in at the end of the slot on the bottom of the wing so the servo leads lay in the slot. Then filled the slot with light weight spackle from the local hardware store to hole the leads in place and smooth out the bottom of the wing. painted it over with craft paint. doesent quite match the color but in the air who is going to see it. Will get a couple of photos this evening, that might help.

qban_flyer
11-15-2005, 09:08 PM
Qban, I only used one HS-55 servo in the wing. A stronger servo would only use more power and not gain you anything. I think that 2 servos would be a waste and add weight. The secret is to install the torque rods so that they are near frictionless. My Corsair is very responsive on the ailerons. It has a high roll rate.

I can't take credit for this idea but here is how I did it. Go to your LHS and buy a couple of antenna tubes for RC cars. Add 5 minute epoxy to the foam ditch. Bury the tube, which is very flexible, in the foam ditch and hold it until the epoxy sets up. Make sure it comes out in the right place on the aileron end. Make new torque rods to replace the pre-bent ones. Use a propane torch and needle nose pliers to bend the little circle for the grommet. Put a drop of 3 in 1 oil in the inboard end of the tube. Slide the wire through the tube. While holding the wire at the correct angle, bend the L on the aileron end. Notice how smooth the torque rod is. After using a piece of sharpened brass tube, the same size as the antenna tube, to drill a hole in the aileron, I epoxied a short length of antenna tube into the aileron to accept the L end of the torque wire.

The photo shows the installation that I did and the tube on the left side before I filled in the ditch.

One more advantage to a single servo is that you have a very clean bottom of the wing with no projections (servos and horns) to get in the way. Saturday afternoon I landed 6 times on a Petromat runway with absolutely no damage. I probably could not have done that with 2 servos.

Ken

What a brilliant idea, Ken. I have a few of those tubes here and music wire of the correct diameter so that I can do the same to my Zero.

Thanks for sharing you "secret" with all of us! :)

qban_flyer
11-15-2005, 09:13 PM
I put them in at the end of the slot on the bottom of the wing so the servo leads lay in the slot. Then filled the slot with light weight spackle from the local hardware store to hole the leads in place and smooth out the bottom of the wing. painted it over with craft paint. doesent quite match the color but in the air who is going to see it. Will get a couple of photos this evening, that might help.

Good, I'll be anxiously waiting for your photos too. I am willing to try as many variations as I possibly can.

I was thinking of "widening" the servo bay, then mount two servos "sideways" with the arms on opposite to each other, then use Dubro mini connectors at the sevo end for adjustment purposes. :)

SBR_RV
11-15-2005, 10:32 PM
i hollowed out the whole radio bay and coated the inside walls with epoxy and water. there is now so much more room. i have also seen someone else do the same. a few carbon fibre peices wouldnt hurt either, which i could consider.

qban_flyer
11-15-2005, 11:23 PM
i hollowed out the whole radio bay and coated the inside walls with epoxy and water. there is now so much more room. i have also seen someone else do the same. a few carbon fibre peices wouldnt hurt either, which i could consider.

That's a very good idea, especially reinforcing it with flat carbon fiber pieces and and thinned epoxy.

Big_Bird
11-15-2005, 11:49 PM
i hollowed out the whole radio bay and coated the inside walls with epoxy and water. there is now so much more room. i have also seen someone else do the same. a few carbon fibre peices wouldnt hurt either, which i could consider.
Sbr_rv, with all due respect, for the life of me I can't see why you hollowed out the radio bay. What could you possibly be planning to put in the fuselage that would need more room than what is there? Hollowing the radio bay would make the plane weaker. I've never heard of using epoxy and water together. This plane has all of the strength that it needs molded right in. Just don't smack it on the ground. You can't make it crash proof.

Now that the radio bay is hollow, what are you going to attach the servos, receiver, and ESC to? Educate me, I'm always up for a better mouse trap. Got photos?

Go back a page and look at how I installed the components in the "stock" radio bay.

Qban, since you thought it was a good idea then help me understand why you thought it was. You don't thin epoxy with water, you thin it with denatured alcohol. Epoxy could add a lot more weight than the foam that was taken out.

Ken

qban_flyer
11-16-2005, 01:03 AM
Qban, since you thought it was a good idea then help me understand why you thought it was. You don't thin epoxy with water, you thin it with denatured alcohol. Epoxy could add a lot more weight than the foam that was taken out.

Ken

Ken, Ken, Ken.

I believe I have been discussing the servo bay in the wing, not the entire fuselage. For my purpose it would make sense to reinforce the enlarged servo bay in the wing with epoxy and small carbon fiber pieces so the integrity will remain after I have enlarged it to acommodate two HS-55s side by side.

It stands to reason that if we (at least myself anyway) have been using alcohol to clean up after using epoxy, that the only sensible way to thin it would using the same substance.

What Sbr_rv uses to thin his epoxy with is no concern of mine. Perhaps water will do as good a job as alcohol. I am no chemist and have no clue since I have never done since epoxy became available eons ago. Have you ever tried to thin it with water? If not, how would you know if it would or would not work?

My concern is how to reinforce the servo bay walls in the GWS Zero wing after I have carved it wider to house two servos. His idea of carbon fiber pieces and thinned epoxy are sound to me, and in my case they won't add that much weight to the model, which is much lighter than specified by GWS (13.6 ounces) and some of the other ones I have seen here. I will use epoxy the way I have been doing for the past 35 years, when Devcon and HobbyPoxy were kings and ruled the modeling roost.

Take care

Big_Bird
11-16-2005, 03:16 AM
Qban, reread post 118. SBR never mentioned the wing. I never mentioned the wing in my post 120. This seemed to me to be a completely different subject than the one that we discussed previously concerning the wing servos. To me, radio bay encompasses things like receiver, servos, battery, but not wing servos. When I read about hollowing the radio bay, my assumption was the fuselage. It seemed to me that you thought hollowing out the fuselage was a good idea. If I miss understood that the fuselage was getting hollowed out and it wasn't then I was wrong.

No hard feelings intended, I was just shocked that anyone would hollow out the fuselage.

Please reread post 120 in light of what I just said.

Ken

qban_flyer
11-16-2005, 03:56 AM
Qban, reread post 118. SBR never mentioned the wing. I never mentioned the wing in my post 120. This seemed to me to be a completely different subject than the one that we discussed previously concerning the wing servos. To me, radio bay encompasses things like receiver, servos, battery, but not wing servos. When I read about hollowing the radio bay, my assumption was the fuselage. It seemed to me that you thought hollowing out the fuselage was a good idea. If I miss understood that the fuselage was getting hollowed out and it wasn't then I was wrong.

No hard feelings intended, I was just shocked that anyone would hollow out the fuselage.

Please reread post 120 in light of what I just said.

Ken

Hello Ken,

No harm done. My input and knowledge acquisition from this here thread were wing related, nothing to do with fuselages.
Dealt with #112 one of yours, which I replied to, and one by soarrc #115 that I replied to as well.

Been in this hobby long enough to know better than to weaken further an already weak airframe to begin with. My GWS Zero is fine with its original fuselage thickness and radio bay.

My posts dealt with the wing exclusively as I want to use independent servos for each aileron. Though epoxy and water is something I will have to try for myself. I'm just curious enough to see how compatible (if at all) those two are. :D

SBR_RV
11-16-2005, 05:33 AM
yes, i did hollow out the fuse. the reason i did this was because i glued my wing on. therefor i needed to remove the middle floor so that if i needed to get access the esc or wing servo i could. makes a stronger plane once the insides of the fuse are renforced.
servo boxs/cases were made out of depron foam and were glued to the fuse. receivers and ESC were stuck to the side of the fuse with double-sided tape. ofcourse when you remove them they will have adhesive on them, so just get a rag and remove it with some methelated spirits.

SBR_RV
11-16-2005, 05:38 AM
as for having one servo per aileron, i have seen ot done by cutting out servo bays on the underneth, each side of the wing. though this was done with smaller servos than the HS-55 servo .

qban_flyer
11-16-2005, 06:15 AM
as for having one servo per aileron, i have seen ot done by cutting out servo bays on the underneth, each side of the wing. though this was done with smaller servos than the HS-55 servo .

Since you have glued your wing to the fuselage it should make for a stronger one as you now have a four sided affair instead of a three sided one.

In my case, what I'll do will be to widen the servo bay in the wing to accomodate two HS-55s side by side with their output arms opposite to each other. I'll reinforce the widened servo pocket as per your suggestion of epoxy and carbon fiber flats on all four sides of the pocket. I'll be replacing the torque rods also as I don't like the factory arrangement. Too much slop.

E-Challenged
11-27-2005, 08:07 PM
RW650,thanks for the info. I have one of these in the box. From all that I have heard they didn't fly all that well in the stock form. Now with the modifications you have stated this sheds a little light in the direction I need to go with this bird. The power system has not been purchased for this one yet, does anyone have a suggestion that would help Me combat the Zeros in the neiborhood??? Thanks D-turtle

D Turtle,

Brushless AXI 2212/26 or /34, Esskay 400XT ( HL cheapie), Himax 2015-4100 on 1100 3S Lipoly pack , 9x5 prop.Himax geared 2025 series are overkill IMHO requiring heavier batteries to match higher current draws.

jhunter
11-29-2005, 06:11 PM
Someone please let me know if any of my stuff will fly this Corsair. Around the shop I have a Nippy black 0808/98 brushless, a brushed 280 in a 5.1:1 gearbox (out of a GP YAK 55 POS). I also have a 3S Lipo 1500 11.1 volts. I can buy the MPJET red if need be, but I would rather use what I already have. Is the performance that sucky with the stock GWS EPS350C that Tower sells as part of the package? I live at 4000' elev. And, any news on the GP Corsair? thanx

Big_Bird
11-29-2005, 06:49 PM
Someone please let me know if any of my stuff will fly this Corsair. Around the shop I have a Nippy black 0808/98 brushless, a brushed 280 in a 5.1:1 gearbox (out of a GP YAK 55 POS). I also have a 3S Lipo 1500 11.1 volts. I can buy the MPJET red if need be, but I would rather use what I already have. Is the performance that sucky with the stock GWS EPS350C that Tower sells as part of the package? I live at 4000' elev. And, any news on the GP Corsair? thanx
Here is the answer. Get an APC 9x6 SF prop. Hook up what ever motor/battery combination. If it will turn the prop between 6500 and 7500 rpm then the plane should be a very good performer. I fly my GWS Corsair with the MP Jet 28/7-30D red outrunner at half throttle most of the time. Half throttle is about 5000 rpm. At this speed and 17 ounces total weight the plane will do any aerobatics that you might want. Loops, rolls, cuban 8s, stall turns, even outside loops. I find that 6000 rpm or more is needed for good knife edge and unlimited vertical. Now you can answer your own question after doing some testing.

At 4000' asl you may need more rpm or a bigger prop. All of my flying is around 600' asl.

The GWS Corsair is a terrific flying plane.

Ken

jhunter
11-29-2005, 07:01 PM
Thanks Ken, I think Hobby-Lobby lists specs for the Nippy motors, I'll check there as I do not have a tach. I do have a few APC 9x slo-flyer props around though. If I have to buy a tach I just might as well buy the MP though, thank again. John

qban_flyer
11-29-2005, 07:38 PM
Someone please let me know if any of my stuff will fly this Corsair. Around the shop I have a Nippy black 0808/98 brushless, a brushed 280 in a 5.1:1 gearbox (out of a GP YAK 55 POS). I also have a 3S Lipo 1500 11.1 volts. I can buy the MPJET red if need be, but I would rather use what I already have. Is the performance that sucky with the stock GWS EPS350C that Tower sells as part of the package? I live at 4000' elev. And, any news on the GP Corsair? thanx

The Zero flew on its stock motor on the verge of a stall constantly, not enough power. I switched to the G/P motor/box combination with a 10X4.7SF APC propeller using a T/P 1320 11.1V pack. Once I changed to the power plant described above, no one at the field could believe it was the same plane!

Incredible performance, and yes, it will fly your Corsair just as well (if not better) than my Zero. :)

jhunter
11-29-2005, 08:29 PM
Well then, maybe I will just order the kit and try the GP brushed 280 and gearbox, thanks qban!

qban_flyer
11-29-2005, 09:08 PM
Well then, maybe I will just order the kit and try the GP brushed 280 and gearbox, thanks qban!

You'll love it! :)

Oldpilot
12-04-2005, 12:31 PM
I've got a North East Sailpanes "Streetfighter" Corsair.
Not really 100% scale---but you can tell it's a Corsair.
Made entirely of EPP it is built for indoor combat, outrunner motor etc:
Comes self coloured Blue --but is very basic. CF U/C included. I built mine in about two hours but hope to fly it indoors this Thursday at Strathfield. http://www.nesail.com Select "Electrics" then "Combat".

K CLOSE
12-05-2005, 07:29 PM
Hi All, Having A Hard Time Learing The Forums, And I'm Not Too Good At Posting So Please Excuse Any Mistakes. I've Done A Gws F4u Into A Super Corsair. I've Not Painted It Yet, But Was Wondering If Anyone Wanted To See Some Pictures. At This Stage It Really Shows The Mods. She Should Fly A Treat, But That Is As Yet Unproven. If Any One Is Intrested I'll Try To Get Some Pictures Taken And Walk Me Through How To Post 'em.
Thanks All.

Big_Bird
12-05-2005, 09:48 PM
Hi All, Having A Hard Time Learing The Forums, And I'm Not Too Good At Posting So Please Excuse Any Mistakes. I've Done A Gws F4u Into A Super Corsair. I've Not Painted It Yet, But Was Wondering If Anyone Wanted To See Some Pictures. At This Stage It Really Shows The Mods. She Should Fly A Treat, But That Is As Yet Unproven. If Any One Is Intrested I'll Try To Get Some Pictures Taken And Walk Me Through How To Post 'em.
Thanks All.
Looks like you are doing OK posting to me. Welcome to the thread. We sure would like to see the photos. Posting photos is really easy. Upload the photos of 97.7 kb (.jpg, scroll down to see the attachment key limits) or less using the Manage Attachments target when you posting. Try it, you'll catch on.

Ken

K CLOSE
12-06-2005, 02:48 PM
THANKS FOR THE WELCOME BIG BIRD. SEEING SOME OF THE MODELS PEOPLE MAKE IS HUMBLEING. IVE ALWAYS MODELED FOR THE FUN AN GWS STUFF IS CHEAP & CHEERFUL AND USUALLY FLYS GREAT. IT'S HARD TO BEAT A OUT OF THE BOX F4U WITH A 350B W/ 9x6, BUT I KNOW I'LL BE THE ONLY ONE AT THE FIELD WITH THIS RARE BIRD. I'LL GET SOMEONE TO TAKE SOME PHOTOS AND TRY TO PUT THEM UP HERE. NOW MY MAIN CONCERN IS WHAT SCHEME RED AND WHITE #57, IT'S PRE COOK R&D #458 OR THE BEAUTIFUL BLUE AND WHITE #74. IT'S WORTH GOING TO WWW.AIRRACE.COM (http://www.AIRRACE.COM) FOR A LOOK AT THESE BENT WING BEASTS.

inedesca
12-13-2005, 10:48 PM
I have this model in the 400 version and a friend of mine has the 350 version both with 3S1P 1050 mAh

We fly at 6600 ft above sea level and both fly beautiful.

The 400 is faster of course with a lot of torque for hand launching

So you should have no problem at all.

Spoonwasher
01-13-2007, 12:50 PM
Hi Gents
Great reading on the GWS Corsair. I've flown & raced 2 different GWS warbirds. Our club started pylon racing these, using any GWS warbird, stock gws 350 motor, any GWS prop & gearbox (stock) and any size 2 cell lipo. This criteria kept the flying field close ...mostly. The GWS warbirds really aren't beginner planes...We as seasoned pilots learned or had a lot to learn getting the best / most out of the planes and there stock set ups. This kept the field close and racing relied mostly on flying/piloting skills getting around the pylon. Notes of interest were 1- flying speed worked out to aprox 37mph. for 15 laps 2- the difference in 2 cell lipo's driving the stock set up was very , very surprizing. best set up was 2500mah 2 cell lipo...but you really need the cooling so open a cooling port in the fron of the plane. Our prez tried one , plane went like hell for over 15 min inpractice, he then went dead stick...thought motor fried....but what happened was he melted the gearbox casing and lost pinion to gear in flight.He had not opened the hole in the front of his cowling for cooling. I gave him another mount, fixed the spitfire at the field....then he smoked me winning for the day as his batterry set up didn't drop of through out the entire 15 lap race....This lead to a change from most guys to larger capacity lipo's for our next weeks racing.
Now the best, and I mean the best( fastest 350 stock set up) was a " B " gear box, 9x7 prop...out of 10 guys , we raced the messersmitt, corsair, spitfire and p51.....the Baron won the year and the fastest lap through out the year. we chased him all year and we already caught him practicing with a new BF 109 for this season. what we did find was the Corsair was the most stable in flight of all the warbirds, and just as fast on a fresh charge.Things like battery capacity started to show after about 5/6 laps. the plane would start to drop speed and mostlikely voltage .Through out our racing season, we raced 4 different corsairs ( they were quite competitive)2 P51,s,3 BF 109's and 3 spitfires , all using stock GWS 350's. I had to purchase a 350 as my corsair came with a 400. Just a note to say the reason we picked GWS warbird is they were inexpensive and easy to aquire....we wanted racing to reflect pilot skill more than who had the biggest pocket book.
My choice for this year is another Corsair..#57 finished in the red & white as a reno racer. We are allowing the shift from camo finishes as they are definitely difficult to see for our late afternoon racing.Any reno racer finished is fine .What I've learned last year I will apply to this year, and get practing...Oh yeah, I did install 2 servo's for ailerons ( 2 hitec 55's) got rid of the GWS bent linkage as the geometry of the linkage is poor. Sepeate servo's allowed me to easily set the ailerons up. I chose to set the racer up with out a functional rudder saving me 1 servo and a little weight.My corsair handled well and was competitive. I was upfront with the baron for most races. Believe it or not, he could and others, lap you 2/3 laps in a short 15 lap race with the pylons spaced about 75ft apart. It took me a couple of races to get my plane and skills up to the others. I tried different props, 10x8 was faster, but drew more amps and run the battery lower faster so I started loosing ground after 6 laps....but staying ahead of the baron and the other guys was a great thrill, even if it was short lived.I can't believe how much fun a bunch of old farts got from these little foam airplanes. It even attrackted some new flyers to our club which we desparately needed. Youg blood to carry the sport to the future.
when my new racer is finished, I'll post a few pictures. we have a website and you can view last years racing in our photo's section(Long Sault flyers) on yahoo.
can't seem to post pictures ..dont know what's the issue here
DM