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booger
07-15-2006, 12:09 AM
Well after recently completing a Gws Zero
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8385
I decided to do a build thread. I am by no means a master builder, just thought this might help some people tackling there first gws warbird build.
To show these birds can be built, to be everyday flyers, and be able to withstand being thrown in the vehicle and hauled around with you.(I do HVAC for a living so I drive a van most of the time. and throw my birds in back for a quick ride to the park.)

So first off this will be a Me-109 build, Mostly stock stuff except for power system,and batteries.I will be glassing this model as I glass most of my foam birds. For durability as noted above. This will also have a removable cowl for motor access.


First up then making the battery compartment large enough for a 3 cell Lipo. I use a propane torch and heat a wire to do most of my enlarging. and then I open the air channel. For the battery to get air around it. If you butt a battery all the way to the front it blocks the air channel. So I widen this more than the battery as seen in pic below.


Next, I cut the cowl off of both fuse halves at the bulkhead. Then I install the pushrod tubes in both halves of the fuse and secure with scotch tape. Then you guessed it glue the two fuse halves together. I used 5 min epoxy for this very sparingly. Being careful to line up end, and to get a nice straight fuselage from front to back


Feel free to chime in as you like for discussion

Rob

Grasshopper
07-15-2006, 12:18 AM
Good luck with the build and thanks for posting it. I've been looking around at Messerschmitts and there just aren't a lot to choose from in the park flyer size range. I've heard positive and negative about the GWS so it will be good to watch it progress.

booger
07-15-2006, 01:04 AM
Next up is to fill panel lines with light weight spackle. I use DAP Fast n Final available at Wal-mart. I am not anal about this, but i just fill till just below the surface i do the smoothing out after the fiberglassing. then a light sanding till smooth by feel.

Then i cut 4 short dowels 1/8th stock 1 inch long. and cut one more about 5/8in. this is the one i use to mark the fuselage from the cowl. I mark the cowl for 4 dowels like pic below. then use a 1/8 drill bit to hand drill 1/2 deep holes at marks in cowl. then use 5/8th dowel to mark the fuselage for it's holes with the cowl.then drill holes in fuselage. Then use polyurethane glue for the one inch dowels in the cowl. Then i put vaseline in the holes in the fuselage to prevent glue from bonding two surfaces together. Separate the two with wax paper and line everything up and secure with tape and let sit overnight.

booger
07-15-2006, 01:39 AM
Next I cut 4, 1/2 in long peices of carbon tube that have a 6mm outside diameter and just over 1/8 inside diameter. I use a 6mm drill bit to enlargen holes in fuse for carbon. Fill the carbon with vaseline and put foam safe ca in holes in fuse an slightly recess carbon peices in fuse. let sit to dry.


Next I cut a piece of 3/32 basswood 1/2 wide by roughly 2 in long and another 1/4 wide by 2 long. Then use the hot wire to melt out the sections of foam around the elevator and rudder servo mount location. these will serve as hard points for the servos. (less slop equals better performance) as in pic below. and glue with polyurethane glue(for its gap filling qualities)


Next up I glue the wing spar in, I use fiberglass rod as this is what I have on hand. and I fill the landing gear mount hole with spackle and fill panel lines on wing with spackle sand smooth when dry (all my planes are usually belly landers as i have nice grass at my park to land on)club field is over 20 miles away.

booger
07-15-2006, 05:27 PM
well now for the glassing.

I usually cut strips like seen in pic below. It makes getting around funny shapes easier for me. All I basically do is dampen surface with the poly, lay on strip of fiberglass cloth, and dab more poly on the cloth till saturated though the material. then brush the remaining towards a point to get it off of the model.


Then I cut the ailerons from the wing and glassed the tips first. reason being makes the tips less likely to break from being handled while glassing the rest of the wing. But first I instal the aileron pushrods before glassing then glass the wing. and all remaining parts of the airframe. I leave a seam for the rudder and elevator to be cut at a later time.

booger
07-15-2006, 05:33 PM
And here is a few pics during glassing and then all the pieces glassed.

booger
07-16-2006, 04:33 AM
Well today i had a pretty good day working on the Me-109. I hinged the ailerons with ca hinges and foam safe ca. And did all the sanding and painting.
I kinda went with a wild camo and gray. I use the krylon acrylics available at wally world. and used a matte finish clear acrylic sealer. this kind of paint dries really fast. So I got alot of work done on it today as it was 100 freaking degrees here today with high humidity.


Oh did you notice the zero in the background of the aileron pic?

alienx
08-27-2006, 03:29 AM
Looks really good. I'll be watching. I have my first GWS build just started, so I'll be paying close attention.

How do you feel about the torque rod set-up? And do you know how much weight the glass and paint add?

Andy

Balil
04-06-2007, 09:22 AM
lol i finally broke my 109 out the other day and slapped some paint on it... i really need to finish that build.... maybe one of these days

rick88ss
09-21-2007, 04:31 AM
No more posts here for awhile. Do you have any pics of the completed me109? What size battery fits?