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tommytorino
07-28-2006, 02:29 AM
Who's in?? :D

http://www.horizonhobby.com/ProdInfo/Gallery/sopwith-and-Jim.jpg

Tommy D

simibill
07-28-2006, 05:07 PM
Who's in?? :D

http://www.horizonhobby.com/ProdInfo/Gallery/sopwith-and-Jim.jpg

Tommy D

Fishing and RC - That's quite a combo.

WWI Ace
07-28-2006, 06:22 PM
I like it!!! When will it be available? How much will it cost? How big is it? How many more questions can I think of? Steve.

Rugar
07-28-2006, 06:37 PM
I like it!!! When will it be available? How much will it cost? How big is it? How many more questions can I think of? Steve.

Ya, what he said! Looks like the perfect size.

Ron
07-28-2006, 08:37 PM
Me Too !

looks like about 61" and 8 lbs...1288 sq. in. Gotta see one soon I hope !
I even have a motor and speed controller that has no " home" yet.

scalercflyer
07-29-2006, 02:45 AM
OH BABY!!! OH BABY, OH BABY!!!!!!!!! :D :D Too good to be true!!!! Walt! Where are you? Shades Of Snoopy and The Red Baron! Check your six all you Fleigers! Martin

WWI Ace
07-30-2006, 09:47 PM
Martin you're gonna have to settle down before you have a stroke or something!!!! Ha ha!!! Steve.

Bigfoot21075
08-21-2006, 03:29 PM
These guys have them on sale for $249.00

http://www.hobby-warehouse.com/ha9soca60arf.html

I would LOVE to have this plane, I wounder how hard the conversion will be?

Here are the specs
Specifications
Wing Span: 61 in (1549mm)
Overall Length: 44 in (1118mm)
Wing Area: 1288 sq in (83.1 sq dm)
Flying Weight: 7.5-8.5 lb (3.4-3.9 kg)
Engine Size: Glow version: Evolution .61NT 2-stroke; Saito FA-91 4-stroke
Motor Size: Electric version: E-flite Power 46 outrunner
Radio: 4 channels w/5 servos
Trim Scheme Colors: Olive Drab (HANU904), True Red (HANU866), Grey (HANU882), White (HANU870), Deep Blue (HANU873), Silver (HANU881)
Recommended Battery: Electric version: 1 14.8V 6000mAh 4S3P or 2 7.4V 4200mAh 2S2P Thunder Power Li-Po packs

Ron
08-21-2006, 03:46 PM
Bigfoot.........don't do that to me.....my wallet is getting itchy :-)

vax6335
08-21-2006, 07:50 PM
61" wingspan on a bipe!? Isn't that IMAA Legal?!? :D :D

Rugar
08-21-2006, 10:12 PM
These guys have them on sale for $249.00

http://www.hobby-warehouse.com/ha9soca60arf.html



That's the same price that Horizon sells them for, but they are on back order at Horizon until next month.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Search/Default.aspx?SearchTerm=Hangar+9+Sopwith+Camel+60+ ARF&CatId=

WWI Ace
08-22-2006, 12:18 AM
Comes with the motor mount and hatch for easy electric conversion!!!! MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM!!!!!!!! Steve.

Glacier Girl
10-11-2006, 05:38 PM
mine showed up last night!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

AlRookie
10-14-2006, 01:16 AM
I got it for $220 from my hobby shop. The best ever!!! Won't put it together till after Christmas.

debhicks
10-14-2006, 11:38 AM
The advertised price is $ 249.99 per contractual agreement with horizon. Now you look for free shipping or reduced shipping. Depends on if it's oversize. You're best deals will be at your local hobby shop because in the store they do have a little leeway.

Good luck. Can't wait to start ordering them in for people so I can see it. Will say's a glossy covered war plane just isn't right:)

But it is pretty.

I posted some video links from the Masters of Electric competitors. There is a thread here somewhere on that. Check them out. :) Here (http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11337)

Glacier Girl
10-18-2006, 01:02 AM
A coat of flat clear will fix the glossy condition.;)

CGFlyer
10-18-2006, 02:39 AM
Thats the exact plane the girlfriend wants to buy me when I get good enough to warrant not buying 6 of them! :)

Baca
10-24-2006, 10:17 PM
Hi,it is my first post on this side .I just maiden my Camel last Sunday , no problems .Check http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=566943&page=8&pp=15 post#114
Andrew

Glacier Girl
11-30-2006, 04:39 PM
Well mines all finished and ready to go, just need to find a pilot. Jeeze, you know how hard it is to find a Snoopy in the aviator gear to fit?

Mine came out at 7.8 pounds. I went with the E60 instead of the 46. Spins a 16x8 prop. And I didn't need to add the weight tray or the one pound of weight to balance. Creative installation of the two 3S3700 20C packs and a 5 AA receiver pack got her right on the money.

CGFlyer
11-30-2006, 04:54 PM
Well mines all finished and ready to go, just need to find a pilot. Jeeze, you know how hard it is to find a Snoopy in the aviator gear to fit?

Mine came out at 7.8 pounds. I went with the E60 instead of the 46. Spins a 16x8 prop. And I didn't need to add the weight tray or the one pound of weight to balance. Creative installation of the two 3S3700 20C packs and a 5 AA receiver pack got her right on the money.

I was thinking something similar. When its time to due the build (just found out im getting this bird for Christmas) I will be picking your brain.

Also, Im an artist by trade and I am finishing up a snoopy sculpt if youre interested.

http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11763&highlight=snoopy

Glacier Girl
11-30-2006, 07:14 PM
Heck yeah I'm interested.

Rugar
11-30-2006, 07:54 PM
I'm really looking hard at this one now. I have a NIB Power 60 sitting here waiting to power something.

tunes
11-30-2006, 08:00 PM
Sounds good to me too, But, I am not sure if I am getting the Camel for Christmas, but if I don't, I'll have an excuse to get it now, LOL

Glacier Girl
12-03-2006, 08:23 PM
As the sun broke through the early morning fog, famed WWI Ace Snoopy took his newly acquired replacement aircraft out for a morning hunt. The loss of his his previous plane "Dog House 1", to the Red Baron, was weighing heavily on him. But his crack crew of maintainence personnel, led by Staff Sargent Woodstock had perfomed magic in an all night overhaul of one of the new replacement birds that had just arrived. They had yanked out the standard 46 radial and installed an "acquired" 60 in it's place. Now Snoopy had a bird that would outfly anything in the air, especially the evil Red Barron. With one spin of the blade by Sargent Woodstock the motor spun up, unlike the chatter of noise from the 46 a roar ripped though the early morning as the new 60 sang it's song. Snoopy smiled down on the Sargent and gave him a thumbs up. Not only for the new motor, but also for the screaming red cowl that was a reminder of who he was going after. Adding throttle the 60 roared like a tornado, tossing everything behind her like a leaf, including Sargent Woodstock. With a jaunty wave from the Ace, the new "Super Camel" took to the air. Not even 1/2 throttle and she was air born.

To be continued........................................

scalercflyer
12-03-2006, 09:42 PM
G Girl, you have too much time on your hands! :) Nice dissertation! :D Hopefully the next time the Red Baron looks behind him, Snoopy will be there with his new Sopwith Camel. Check your six! Martin

ShorkR
12-23-2006, 05:58 PM
I am wondering how well the Camel flies with the Power 60. Any comments or VIDEOS would be great, thanks

tunes
12-23-2006, 06:46 PM
I'm hoping to be able to tell/show you, as I have the E-Flight Power 60, and think that the Camel might just be that big box under the tree.

Rob 'Tunes' O

ShorkR
12-24-2006, 07:13 AM
Haha, I am getting so anxious to fly it, I've had it built for about a month now but I've been unlucky. There was a defect in my V-Series 60-amp ESC and it burnt up a minute after plugging in the battery, and then I realized on the last step in the manual that I didn't recieve the brass fittings for the tail flying wires. If you end up getting the kit make sure those brass fittings are in it b/c I have heard that alot of kits are missing them and the tail flying wires a required for flight. Well if I get it in the air soon I'll let you know how it is.

Glacier Girl
12-24-2006, 12:37 PM
ShorkR,
There is a bulletin on Horizon's site about the missing tabs.
Just call em and they'll send em to you.

The 60 makes a sweet flyer out of her. More horsepower always means better performance. I know in mine it does.

tunes
12-28-2006, 12:51 PM
Yeah I was went to the site, here is a link to the service bulletin.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Bulletin.aspx?ProdId=HAN4225

I was there since the Latch is broken.
The pin and the lever move indipendantly (I can get about 1/8" movement "in/out" on the pin without any movement of the lever/handle, and the lever is VERY difficult to move. I need plyers to get any movement, but still can not pull it back far enough to disengage the pin.
I will contact Horizon I guess, I'm Bummed out

Rob 'Tunes' O

tunes
12-28-2006, 01:06 PM
Dummie engine with Electric Motor Mount

Has anyone been able to use the dummie engine, with the included motor mount?

I am using the e-Flite Power 60 (but that shouldnt make ny difference if the motor is mounted behind the mount as described in the instructions.
Basically, If you extend the mount out to 5" from the firewall, the face of the mount it too wide to fit into the center portion of the dummy engine.
So what do you do?
Cut away the center of the dummy?
After much head scratching, I was eventually able to figue out, that if I reversed the shaft and monted the engine infront of the mount, The Dummy engine would fit infront of the motor.
This, however, is a problem with the Power 60 at least, since I was not able to get the mount set to the right distance to fit behind the motor.
So what I had to do, was reverse the the front half of the motor mount.
(ie, so that the Motor actually mounted "inside" the sides of the mount, then I was able to bolt it to the rear half of the mount.
The Dummy engine still would not fit since the (now reversed) mount sides protruded forward enough to interfere
Once I was sure that I had the right distance from the firewall, I removed the mount and cut off ~ half the sides to get the clearance that I needed.

I will go get some pics and post them right away.

What have others done to get the dummy engine to fit with the supplied mount?

Rob 'Tunes' O

Glacier Girl
12-28-2006, 03:57 PM
tunes, You got me scratching my head. Mine has the dummy motor, the 60 and the stock motor mount. Only thing on mine is I didn't push the cowl back fully, it's probably 1/16" further forward then where it should be.
Mine has the motor mounted inside the mount, just the shaft end sticking out. Prop adapter is bottomed out on the shaft and just clears the dummy engine.:confused:

Just a thought but do you have the dummy motor all trimmed out? I know on mine I had to trim 2 of the clyinders slightly bigger to clear the mount corners. Could be that's where you are running into the problem.

tunes
12-28-2006, 04:33 PM
Glacier Girl, I think that moving the cowl 1/16 ahead might have given me enough room to fit the Dummy ahead of the mount.
I don't know what was hitting the Mount corners, but it definately was the corners which were too big to allow the dummy to fit back far enough.
Well, I was having a hell of a time trying to get the right distance for the Power 60 anyway, well, mounted from the back which is how the shaft was setup out of the box.
I did end up reversing the shaft to mount it as described, but then ran into this dummy engine problem, so I ended up going back to the original motor config and the reversed mount.
The pictures I just took came out out of focus, So I will go try them again.
here is the best that I got

tunes
12-28-2006, 04:37 PM
Has anyone had a problem with the Hatch Latch :p ?

I've emailed Horizon to ask if they can send the parts to repair it, Or just exchange the Fuselage.
A repair would be messy I think having to remove quite a bit of covering, and then doing surgery to get at the parts that hold in the Latch pin. I'm hoping for a replacement.

Rob 'Tunes' O

tunes
12-28-2006, 09:55 PM
Well, Horizon tells me that it is normal that the Pin is too hard to move by hand,and;
that the pin can not be retracted completely, and;
that the Hatch is a royal pain to remove (when everything works as it should).

They are willing:rolleyes: to look at the my fuse if, I disassemble the plane, then package and ship the Fuse to them for inspection (at my expense):mad:

So I guess this plane will be sitting in the box (well the wings anyway), for the next month or so.:(

I'm almost tempted to order a replacement fuse, and temporarily secure the Hatch with masking tape or rubber bands:confused:

Rob 'Tunes' O

Glacier Girl
12-29-2006, 10:21 AM
Rob, neither of your pics are how I did mine.
I mounted mine with the flat of the forward portion of the mount out. Motor bolted behind/inside the mount. Just the shaft and the collar protrude. Your second pic will have the whole bell spinning against the dummy motor. The way the offset is on the mount, down and to the right, makes the right upper and lower corners of the mount stick out more then the opposite ones. (Viewed from the front) What I did on mine took some dry fitting to finally figure out why mine was binding. 2 of the jugs when cut out like the rest catch on the corners of the mount. Ended up just whittling away at the jugs till they cleared. Something else you might try is trimming down the outside of the dummy motor ring, that way it will slip forward in the cowl a hair and help it clear the mount.

As for the latch, mine was a bear to move at first. I took a little spray silicone like WD40 and shot some in around the latch area and worked the latch back and forth. Mine now will just take a hair of rearward movement to get the cockpit started in place, then it snaps into the locked position.
Could be there is glue or some thing that gets on the latch during assembley and causes it to be so tight.

Here I drew out how I set mine up and how I trimmed the jugs for clearance.

tunes
12-29-2006, 08:21 PM
Thanks Glacier Girl.
I'm happy with the dummy engine now, it has lots of clearance from the motor face (especially since the front of the motor is tapered).

I think my problem with the Latch is the fact that the pin moves independantly from the lever!
If the pin is pushed backwards (AFT) then it can be retracted more than enough by the lever, however, if i pull the pil out (forward) 1/2", then the lever will not pull it back far enough to disengage from the Hatch.

I suspect that the pin should be held rigid to the lever

Am I right?

So now, i am thinking about removing the covering from the underside so I can gain access to the mechanism from below, and hopefully secure the pin.

I am hoping there is a set screw (or similar) that shpould hold that darn pin.
if not, then I will remove the pin completely so that it doesnt get stuck (forward), and make hatch removal impossible.
I can then rig a magnetic/metal plate to hold the aft end of the hatch secure.

So, please can anyone tell me (before I start cutting) how that pin is held in, or if it is normal to float free.
If it can float, how far should does it move back and forth?

Thanks,

Rob 'Tunes' O

Glacier Girl
12-30-2006, 11:24 AM
Rob. I went out and checked mine. It is solidly connected to the lever. Then I looked real close at it with a mag lite and a magnifying glass.
Pure genius, no not me, the design.

The lever is actually a threaded rod on one end. The pin goes through a brass block, the lever screws in the top of the block and clamps down on the pin to lock it in place.
YOUR LEVER IS LOOSE!!!!!!!!!!!!!:eek: :eek: :eek:

There is a spring behind the block to make it slide forward to engage.
Set the pin at the correct distance, tighten the lever down on it and you should be good to go.;) :D :D :D

Here I drew out what it more then likely looks like.

ShorkR
12-30-2006, 02:44 PM
Thanks for the website Glacier Girl and Tunes, i had already ordered the brass fittings through my local hobbyshop, so they took care of it for me. Everything is finally in so i should be flying it tomorrow if the weather permits.

Regarding the dummy engine not fitting right, i cut away at it as well and it fits fine now.

thanks

tunes
12-30-2006, 02:56 PM
Great,
Thanks Glacier Girl.
I guess I'm not the only one who is reading both threads, ;)

I saw (your ?) post at RC groups first, and ran down to check it out.

TOTAL Success:D

You got it, the lever was loose,
I could turn it 1/4 turn by hand, then with vise grips I got another 1/2 turn out of it. Now the pin is locked in place and can be retracted by the lever.:cool:

I'm very glad I didn't cut into the bottom looking for a setscrew, only to discover that I had been fiddling with the setscrew/lever, the whole time.:eek:

I think I will call Horizon again and report, your findings, since they were absolutley no help what so ever to me. Perhaps if they know how it should work, they can pass it on to others with similar problem.
They must use the same setup in other ARFs I would think.

Great, now I can get back to the assembly this evening.

Rob 'Tunes' O

tunes
01-02-2007, 12:13 AM
Thanks to GlacierGirl, I have now been able to move onto my next problem.

I am attempting to install the lower wings, BUT the wing tube seems to be too long and I can not get both wings to fit flush against the fuse.

The instructions do not state how long this tube should be, or how far it should fit into each wing panel.
If anyone can get these measurments, I would be able to find the problem.

I know that the tube slips 2 3/4 inches into one panel but only 2 1/2 inches into the other one.
It appears that the wings are just over 1/4 inch from meeting the fuse sides, so there might be some glue or other obstruction in the one wing panel stopping the tube from being inserted completely.
If anyone has those measurements, or had any similar difficulty, I would appreciate hearing from you,
Thanks

Rob'Tunes' O

Ron
01-02-2007, 05:35 AM
Rob....stick something into the wing tube to see how far it goes...ie piece of balsa stick or pencil....if the hole is 2 3/4 deep and the tube only goes in 2 1/2...look inside and you will see the problem...obviously there will be something in the way...clear it out, and your " problem" is solved. ;)

Glacier Girl
01-02-2007, 10:24 AM
Rob, ditto to what Ron said.
Also round over the end of the tube slightly, sometimes the sharp edge will dig into the wing as it's going in and bind up.

tunes
01-02-2007, 05:07 PM
Well, I could not see anything in either wing tube, but there is something restricting the jointing tube from being inserted into the right panel the full 2 3/4 that is required.
I think the wooden cross piece that stops the tube from being inserted further, had pushed some debris beside it. (very hard to see)
I rounded out one end of the tube, and it slid in a bit further (I think that debris has narrowed the tube 1/16 inch prior to the cross piece. By sanding one side of the tube a bit more to form a further narrowing and slight notch into the end of it, I have been able to insert if to the required depth.

I guess that noone else had this problem?

I am happy with this as I havn't really shortened the tube by rounding it's end, and notching it to slip all the way to the cross piece stop.

I think I will lock the tube into the right panel, so that I will not be exposing the "Sharpened" tube end when disassembled.

Rob 'Tunes' O

CGFlyer
01-02-2007, 08:36 PM
tunes I am glad youre building yours first. Now if I any issues I can refer to this when I build mine this spring! ;)

tunes
01-02-2007, 09:43 PM
CGFlyer, there is another build thread over at RC groups,
Here is the link,

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=566943

There has been a lot of discussion over there about different motor battery combinations etc. It's worth a read before starting the build.
A few good ways of minimizing the requirment to add weight to the nose.

Rob 'Tunes' O

CGFlyer
01-03-2007, 12:01 AM
Thank you Mr. Rob, I will check it out and seek, I am seriously wanting the E-Flite Power 60 as the motor, what are you running?

tunes
01-03-2007, 01:16 AM
CG, Yeah, Ive got the power 60.
I picked it up last fall for a hangar 9 60 ARF e convertion.
I havent used it in anything else yet, but I think it will be perfect in the Camel and minimize the need for extra ballast up front.
A few people have used this motor that have posted in the RC groups thread.
I did have a problem with getting the supplied mountthe right distance out to allow for rear mounting the motor, but I was able to figure it out.
I will post some pics once I get my install completed.

Good luck with the build.

Rob 'Tunes' O

Glacier Girl
01-03-2007, 11:15 AM
Tunes I run the 60 in mine. Removed the forward portion of the fuel tank mount, and sit two 3S3700 series wired packs right up against the firewall. The packs stand upright in an inverted V shape, my 5 AA rx pack sits underneath them right on the hump on the floor. Flying weight is 8 pounds and I did not need the weight box or lead weight to balance out.

tunes
01-04-2007, 04:14 AM
That is the setup that I am hoping for as well Glacier Girl.
But I also rotated the motor mount so that I could cut thru the firewall on either side to side the batteries even further forward if that is required. Hopefully not.
I will let you know if I can keep it balanced without cutting that firewall.

Rob 'Tunes' O

ShorkR
01-05-2007, 04:30 AM
To those using the Power 60, I have two thunder power 2 cell 4200 mAh lipos wired in series in my Sopwith and I'm thinking its not enough power for the motor. I'm new to r/c flying so I rely on the hobby shop for answers. They said that the packs will power it fine, but I am definitely not flying it easily at 50% like everybody is saying that use the power 60. I'm thinking about maybe getting the 3 cell packs but again, I am new to this hobby and still quite ignorant in many of the aspects of it, so any suggestions or tips would help greatly, thanks

Ron
01-05-2007, 06:28 AM
The power 60 will not work well on 4 cells...it's designed for 6 cells, and works very well on that...Your hobby shop did not do their homework before they sold you the 2 cell packs.

redgiki
01-05-2007, 02:56 PM
I use a combination of 2 and 3-cell packs to create any pack configuration that I want :) Works well as long as you fly on a timer and your batteries are reasonably close to balanced between packs... within around a tenth of a volt or so. Have to make sure they are the same brand, reasonably close to the same production date, and that they put out close to equal volts under the same load.

Just go buy one more 2S pack and wire it up as 6S :)

ShorkR
01-05-2007, 05:45 PM
Ya i figured that i was going to need more cells. Thanks for the help Ron and redgiki, i appreciate it

ShorkR
01-05-2007, 06:51 PM
If i add another 2 cell pack would it work out okay because i would then have 3, 4200 mAh lipo packs?

Rugar
01-05-2007, 09:58 PM
If i add another 2 cell pack would it work out okay because i would then have 3, 4200 mAh lipo packs?

Just wire all three 2 cell packs in series. Would be the same as wiring two three cell packs together in series.

ShorkR
01-06-2007, 08:17 PM
For the time being, would and 14x8 prop instead of a 16x8 make it fly any better?

Glacier Girl
01-07-2007, 12:55 PM
Not really, amps would go down about 6. Thrust would drop about 18.5 oz and speed would drop around 3 mph.

I agree going with a 6S set up, will double the thrust, add 11 mph to it and increse your amps to roughly 35 +/_

tunes
01-07-2007, 02:59 PM
Glacier Girl
Do you have a pic of your battery installation that you can post here?
I would like to keep mine behind the firewall as well, for ease of removal/charging access, but also want to avoid adding weight to get the corrct CofG.


Cooling question to all:

How did you ensure adequate cooling? Cut any hole in the firewall?
If so, or not, did you remove any covering (usually I do near the tail on the bottom) to allow better cooling airflow thru the fuselage.

Happy Flying,


Rob 'Tunes' O

Glacier Girl
01-08-2007, 11:08 AM
ROb, Yeah I'll post you some pics of it tonight.

Glacier Girl
01-09-2007, 11:16 AM
Here you go Rob.
#1 shows fuel tank plate removed. I stuck a couple of pieces of foam on the firewall and floor to cushion the packs.
#2 shows the packs pretty much where they sit in the bird When fully installed they just clear the upper part of the fuselage former. This forms the upside down V, that I was talking about. You can see the rx pack underneath them. It sits right on the hump on the floor, secured with velcro.
#3 is the piece of foam that sits between the packs and the former behind them. It goes all the way in to lock everything in place.

That's it. CG is dead on, and no weight tray or lead added this way.

tunes
01-09-2007, 02:26 PM
looks good GC,
I think my packs are the same length so that should work for me.
Do you have any problem with pack overheating?
What flight times are you getting? and what style of flying do you do?
I figure if you are maxing them out then overheating might be more of a problem than if you are just doing some lazy circuits.

keep flying,
Rob 'Tunes' O

Glacier Girl
01-09-2007, 04:51 PM
Rob,
Only pulling like 35 amps with the 16x8 so less then 10C on the 6s3700 20 C pack. I haven't really pushed it, happy just flying it as it would have flown, never flown to lvc. Packs barely get warm, and that was on a fairly warm day.

tclaridge
02-19-2007, 01:49 AM
OK, it has always helped me when folks post their progress, so here are some pics that show my Camel build so far. I will be using a Power BL 46, and a sound system.
Notice I paint all my nylon fixtures a flat earth, and dull coat the covering. I will also cover the screws in flat clear to give them a weathered look. Gives a nice scale look I think. I also had to do a lot of ironing to smooth out the covering.
Electronics go in very nicely. I have the TP 4S 5000mah extreme installed, and an AR7000 receiver for the DX7. Speed control is a Jeti Opti 77 and a BEC. I use Velcro squares from Home Depot. Makes it easy to get things in and out than using two-sided tape. The speed control is also tied down with a twisty wrapped around two extra long #8-32 engine mount bolts. I did this because of all the pulling to be done while plugging/unplugging the battery. Everything is as far forward as possible.
Another note: I did not follow the manual that said to install the cabane struts in the beginning. I thought they would get in the way, and I am glad I have not put them on yet. I will do it prior to wing install.

RM Stinson
02-19-2007, 03:23 AM
Before you finalize your component installation, I recommend you check your CG. FYI, I had to put my batteries in front of the firewall and include the provided lead weight for correct balance.

CGFlyer
02-19-2007, 03:47 PM
Looks great, I will be gleaming all kinds of tips from this thread when I build mine in the next month or so.

Glacier Girl
02-19-2007, 08:53 PM
tc, what kinda sound system are you using????

tclaridge
02-20-2007, 05:35 AM
The sound system will have a Gnome engine sound digitized from the real thing and tied to the esc so the RPMs match. There will also be a machine gun sound tied to the gear switch on the Tx, and there will be LEDs in the gun barrels so the flash matches the "pop pop pop." I don't have it installed yet, but that is next.

Here is the link: http://www.benedini.de/Home_E/home_e.html

I don't know the CG yet, but I am assuming I will be OK because the sound system will come in about 16 oz, and its installed in the cowl. That is a good idea to open the firewall an push the battery through. It would move the battery 2 inches foward. That would move the CG forward 1/4" and every little bit helps. If I get into adding too much ballast, I will cut the firewall and go for it.

I also reversed the engine mount from the manual. This gave more clearance of the engine against the dummy radial. I do not have to trim the dummy motor, and you do not have to reverse the shaft of the BL 46.

I will post pictures as I progress.

tclaridge
02-27-2007, 04:43 AM
OK, after all the good advice on this thread about weight and balance, I did some numbers and saw I was heading for a pig. I am now working to move things forward to avoid adding too much ballast. Boy is this thing sensitive to CG!!
I had to cut the firewall to get the battery forward, and most electronics will go under the cowl (except the Rx). I am posting a little Excel sheet to share my weight and balance. I hope it may be useful for other folks to plan their radio, motor, and equipment install. For us electric guys, the lighter motor seems to create a balance challenge.
I will post pictures of the final installation when it is done.
PS Just change the *.txt filename to *.csv for Excel to read it.

tclaridge
03-09-2007, 03:54 AM
Here is my latest post showing the LED installation for the muzzle flash of the twin Vickers!

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5533192 (http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5533192)

tclaridge
03-13-2007, 01:32 AM
Here is my cockpit with joystick and instrument panel. I included a template to print and use if you want.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5551807

tclaridge
04-22-2007, 04:40 AM
I posted an update on painting control linkages and saving weight for an electric installation (including pictures):

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5751085

QuietRCFly
05-11-2007, 12:57 AM
Has anyone tried a Hacker A50 12S with this plane? We crunched the numbers and it appears to be a good match with like a 14x7 or 14x8 prop. Just hoping for some real world reports with this setup or something close.

jonnyjetprop
05-11-2007, 02:27 AM
The Camel that Horizon had at SEFF had a matt weathered finish. I asked them how they do it. Flat paint? No, they said they use a Scotch Brite pad to take the shine off.

John

QuietRCFly
05-11-2007, 02:32 AM
The Camel that Horizon had at SEFF had a matt weathered finish. I asked them how they do it. Flat paint? No, they said they use a Scotch Brite pad to take the shine off.

John
Pretty Cool!

tclaridge
05-11-2007, 01:45 PM
Steel wool does a nice job of weathering too. But I went with the Lusterkote flat clear. Looks awesome, but it does make repairs harder because you can't iron paint very well. I iron a repair, then buff with steel wool, then spray with flat clear again. Works great. If you see my pictures, the Camel has a nice dull finish. It changes the character of the whole plane!

tahustvedt
05-30-2007, 05:47 PM
So has anyone made a video of theirs yet? In the video on the H9 website it looks like a fast plane which is strange.

I ordered one of these yesterday but won't receive it until three weeks from now. I will use an AXI 4130/24 (modified to 24 turns) on 8S with an 18x10 prop which should be about scale diameter.

tclaridge
05-31-2007, 04:13 AM
It may look fast, but I bet it is cruising at about 30-35 mph with a top speed of 40-45 mph. Maybe 50mph is a WOT dive. Lots of drag on this one. You may consider less motor unless you are going to fly 3D.

tahustvedt
06-01-2007, 06:10 PM
35 mph sounds fast to me for a plane like this. :)

I chose this motor because it can spin a scale size prop effortlessly and the plane needs the noseweight anyway.

Ron
06-02-2007, 04:18 PM
I ordered one of these last week...should be here on Wednesday.
Think I'm going to use an old Astro sport 40 3.31 to 1 gearbox and6S lithiums....more than ample power I think, and since I already own it, it should be a relatively inexpensive motor installation :-)

tclaridge
06-02-2007, 07:46 PM
If you go electric, I recommend doing the mods I show on earlier posts. I saved 1/2 lb of balast!

Ron
06-03-2007, 07:13 PM
after doing a few more calcs I decided to use my old tried and true Maxcim D wind on a 3.69 to 1 gearbox. It will use 3S lithiums, and will likely swing a 16X10 prop at about 4900 rpm max...since the lipo packs are 8100mah, it should give me lotsa duration. really looking forward to getting this one started.

Ron
06-12-2007, 09:04 PM
My Camel arrived last night....now to finish up the Gee Bee so I can start on it

tahustvedt
06-23-2007, 01:51 PM
Mine also arrived last night. It's a nice model awith high quality construction. I wish they had used more balsa in the tail though instead of all that plywood, but it's still pretty light. I'm too busy with a helicopter project to start on the plane now though. :)

Ron
07-16-2007, 07:37 PM
Started to assemble it this last weekend...boy every blind nut in this model had epoxy in it...I had to use a tap to get them cleaned out,
Other than that it seems to be a decent model. rigging wires should be installed this evening, then I will use some dullkote on it to get rid of the shine. Test Frights will happen in the next day or two.

Ron
07-17-2007, 07:25 PM
Noticed that the geometry for the aileron linkages is not very good.
The way it's set up, there is lots of down, but very little up on the ailerons...guess I'll have to redesign the setup so that I can get at least 2 to 1 differential on the ailerons....I guess it'll fly the way it comes, but likely not too good.....anyone else change theirs??

yflint
08-19-2007, 05:12 PM
I assembled this model using the E-flite 60 motor with 15x8 prop and 6000 mAh 5S Li-Po battery. I noticed the problem to ballance for the correct CG due to very short nose. I, therefore opened the firewall and pushed the battery up to the motor. I mounted the receiver battery and the controller within the cowl and the receiver itself to the rear of the firewall.
After all that I had to add 650 gr of lead into the special weight-box in order to get the correct CG. The total weight was 4600 gr. Although it looks very heavy to me I beleived that the 60 motor will take it with no problem, as I measured with the a/m prop 7000 RPM at full throtle.
Last weekend I made the test flight. It was a dissaster.
I had to run on the ground about 30 mtrs at full power until it left the runway. It flew very slow and I felt it has no power. I had to strugle to keep it level at about 10 mtrs hight as I could not gain more altitude. It was a dead body- like a peice of stone. After about 2 minutes I decided to bring it back for landing. But when I tried to make a gentle turn it stalled and crashed. To my great luck this model is so strong that the only damage was a cracked cowl.
I am thinking now what to do and have for the moment 2 conclusions:
1] To replace the battery to 6S.
1] To find the way how to reduce about 1000 grms from the total weight.
I shall much appreciate your comments to that issue.

tclaridge
08-20-2007, 03:03 AM
yflint,
I took the time to do some mods to save weight, and I am glad I did. I was pushing the 10 lb mark, but I ended up at 8.7lb! See these threads on my mods.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5751085

Some tips: moved the servos forward (see pics), replaced control rods with .07" carbon rods, added 2.5 oz lead in the dummy engine, firewall cutout for battery (see pics).

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5581361

tclaridge
09-27-2007, 04:54 AM
Here is a video of the ground run up "showing" the sound system. Who says it takes a gasser to sound good? This model has ZERO ballast, and balances at the manual-specified cg. The sound system under the cowl weighs 16 oz, and acts as ballast.

http://rcuvideos.com/item/SD9W24R3837T1G7C

yflint
09-27-2007, 06:54 PM
Hi tclaridge,
During the last weeks I spent many hours reading most of the threads in various forums regarding that specific model. I was surprised how many threasds exists for this model. All the problems are related to the electric version, mainly discussing the problem that I was facing. It is very much clear to me now that a major change must be done in order to fly this model properly. First of all I changed the batteries from 5S to 6S in order to get more power. Second thing will be to shift the electric system components forward as much as possible into the cowl. The outcome should be a drastic reduction in the nose weight.
I know from the local dealer from whom I purchased the kit that he discussed my problems with the technical support of Horizen. He understood from them that they aware of what is going on regarding the problems with this model and they will give some tips/suggestions in order to improve. I already started to make the chages in my model, but it is a lot of work. I very much like your idea to replace the metal wires to the rudder and elevator with carbon rods - can you be more specific and describe what carbon dia you use, how you connect the the carbon rod to the metal link, and how you made from carbon the fork that operatrs both sides of the elevator ?

tclaridge
09-28-2007, 03:41 AM
First flight today! Here is how it went:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6422988

tclaridge
09-28-2007, 03:54 AM
yflint,
After today's flight, the extra time to take out weight really paid off. I did go to a lot of work to do this, but now that I look back, I think is really saved 1.3 pounds in the plane by moving things forward!!! Here is the list of what if modified, and I will try to answer your other how-tos with some pictures later on.

Battery mounted through center of fire wall (requires cut out between engine mount), moved 4" forward.

Servos moved 4" forward. Requires servo mount construction.

Metal rods replaced with carbon rods. Requires metal sleeves to be epoxied on the ends.

Esc mounted under cowl on engine mount.

About 2 oz lead epoxied into dummy engine.

Sound system was about 16 oz and mounted on weight box, so this is a wash.

Small modifications that made a BIG CG difference which means less ballast!

SpitfireIX
10-02-2007, 05:27 AM
Hey everyone.

I been trying to read up on the pervious posts and it seems like there is some variation to setting up the camel. I was wondering if I could ask a general question sort of eluded to in past posts about the basic starting components for the plane...

I am looking to go electric with the camel, Hanger 9 suggests eflite 46, but it looks like a lot of people here have the e-flite power 60 installed. Is there a big difference between the two? based on the specs of the engine for plane weight it would seem you have to go with the power 60. Would you overall recommend the power 60? If so is there a good ESC and battery that you can recommend starting off with this motor?

other parts I was thinking of getting was the DS821 servos and the AR7000 receiver. Would there be a better choice then the above or will that be sufficient?

Thanks all for any input you have

Pete

tclaridge
10-02-2007, 01:41 PM
Pete,
I was worried too about the BL 46, but it flys great! I use and JETI 77 Opti Plus with an Ultimate BEC. DS821s and the AR7000. Be prepared to do the modifications I have listed (and use the 16 oz ballast provided), and it will come out to 8.5 lbs! It does aerobatics just fine, plenty of power for sport flight. Any more would be over kill.

WARNING!!

If you build it stock, and go electric, you may end up with a 10 lb dog! Move things forward like in my posts.

yflint
10-02-2007, 06:25 PM
Pete,
I went for the BL 60 motor due to the following:
The manufacturer suggest in the glow option to use either 0.61 2-stroke or 0.91 4-stroke. Therefore, in the electric option the equivalent is the BL 60. If you choose the BL 60 you have to use a 6 S battery.
In order to avoid excesive weight to obtain the correct CG you must shift forward as much as possible the tail servos, reciever, ESC and battery.

Cruiser
10-02-2007, 06:49 PM
:eek:Noticed that the geometry for the aileron linkages is not very good.
The way it's set up, there is lots of down, but very little up on the ailerons...guess I'll have to redesign the setup so that I can get at least 2 to 1 differential on the ailerons....I guess it'll fly the way it comes, but likely not too good.....anyone else change theirs??


Consider that the down ail is the one that turns and the one that goes up is just drag ! It was designed the way it is so it'll fly more stable !

SpitfireIX
10-02-2007, 10:53 PM
Hey guys thanks a lot for the fast replys. I am ready to buy everything just trying to figure out the engine to put in it.

tclaridge - What % throttle are you using to maintain average flying without doing to many aerobatics with such a heavier plane then recommended for that motor? And when doing the sport maneuvers need you be at full throttle?

yflint - Yes i thought it made sense for the power 60 based on the specs and weight of the plane but found it odd that hanger 9 recommended the 46 power BL. If you don't mind me asking the same question as tclaridge, what throttle power % is needed for average flying without many aerobatic maneuvers with the power 60? For sport maneuvers what throttle is it at then?

Would it be safe to assume that with the lipo batteries if you were to be flying at half throttle the battery will last a bit longer then using another motor at full throttle?

In the end im not trying to fly the plane like a jet but rather at a reasonable speed that mimics a WW1 plane to scale. Of course it be nice to be able to have a bit of extra punch in case wind is an issue or for any other reason be it from either the 46 or 60 as long as there is some. Naturally im sure its a bit more $$ overall for the bigger motor.

I look forward for your reply, for I cant wait to put an order in to buy. oh and thanks for the tips on the assembly its makes plenty of sense shifting the weight forward.

Pete

tclaridge
10-03-2007, 01:00 AM
I have all control throws as stock, and it was perfect. I do not use dual rates, but I have all controls at 40% expo. I added aileron-->rudder mix at 25%. That amount was spot on.

In a barrel roll, I did not see any adverse yaw. It rolled just like the real thing. Looked awesome.

If you follow the manual on control throws, it will be fine.

tclaridge
10-03-2007, 01:06 AM
Spitfire,
Cruise was at 65% (just right) and aerobatics done at full throttle. Take offs are gradual increase to full power, and it springs off the ground nicely. I did not see much speed increase between cruise power and full throttle, but that is expected for a WWI biplane with flying wires. Acts just like it should.

I was surprised at how well ground taxi is in the grass! No problems there.
If I had to start over, I would still do the Power 46. It performs like the real thing! If you like extra power, the BL 60 should be a real killer, but I am worried the extra weight might make it fly like a brick. But maybe not.

yflint
10-03-2007, 12:33 PM
Takeoff and aerobatics at about 80% to full power. Regular level flight at about 50% power. The speed is o.k. like a WW 1 scale should be.
Using a larger motor dose not increase the total flying weight because you will have to reduce the amount of lead in the weight-box.
I allways go for a larger motor as sometime you need some extra power. The additional cost for a larger motor is discardable. Also do not forget that this model is heavy, having about 55 - 60 gr./sq.dec. wing load.

WWI Ace
10-04-2007, 02:27 AM
I agree with yflint. I would rather put a bigger motor up front. It may weigh more but it will have more power. If you have to use alot of dead weight to get the CG right, why not use a heavier motor with more power so the weight is usable? I converted a Fokker tripe that everyone was putting a 480-500 size motor on and then adding lots of nose weight. I put a Power 25 in mine. It has more power and less dead weight. Mine flies MUCH better than their heavy dogs!!! Steve.

SpitfireIX
10-04-2007, 05:44 AM
Well I think im leaning back to the bl60 for weight issues again, so I will probably end up getting that motor. yflint or anyone else with an power 60 in the camel... can you tell me the setup you have for the motor? like ECS, the kind of 6 cell needed (full specs would be helpful as im not sure what to search for), and prop size? It would be very helpful

At this point i was leaning towards the venom racing v-series 80amp BL w/ lipo safe tech... is this overkill or no? the battery as I said before I have no clue what to look for, not looking to break the bank any further but a decent one would be nice... and out of curiosity... if flying the 6S at 50% throttle how long does battery on average last?

Sorry for so many questions but everyone here been very helpful so far

Thanks!

yflint
10-04-2007, 08:34 PM
Hi Pete,
The set up I have with the BL 60 motor is the folloeing:
2 Li-Po battreies 3 S, 4100 mAh connected in serial.
ESC 80 A .
Prop size: 16 x 8

BmacSWA
10-05-2007, 03:52 PM
I love (like most of you) the ideal of flying this Airplane. However I love to build as much as fly and am having one hell of a time finding a like aircraft in just wood parts. Plans alone for this scale plane would be welcome. Have I missed a thread with the same question? Can anyone point me in the right direction? I even contacted Horizon looking for just the wood kit and plans and was laughed at (figuratively anyway). I'll beg, borrow, trade, steal or buy whatever to find such a kit.

yflint
10-05-2007, 04:53 PM
I love (like most of you) the ideal of flying this Airplane. However I love to build as much as fly and am having one hell of a time finding a like aircraft in just wood parts. Plans alone for this scale plane would be welcome. Have I missed a thread with the same question? Can anyone point me in the right direction? I even contacted Horizon looking for just the wood kit and plans and was laughed at (figuratively anyway). I'll beg, borrow, trade, steal or buy whatever to find such a kit.
Please try www.traplet.com (http://www.traplet.com) in the U.K. In this site you will find lot of plans to be purchased. I do not know if they have the Camel but it worth to look. A wood kit and plan mainly for WW1 scale models you will find at
www.aerodromerc.com (http://www.aerodromerc.com) in the U.S.
I hope you will find what you are looking for.

WWI Ace
10-05-2007, 11:32 PM
Hey BmacSWA you might try Balsa USA or www.manzanolaser.com (http://www.manzanolaser.com) for something similar. Might also get on the WWI planes thread and contact Scalercflyer. He has tons of WWI plane plans in all sizes!!! Steve

Glacier Girl
11-02-2007, 09:39 PM
Pete, My set up is just about the same as yfint, 60 motor, Castle 60, seperate rx pack, two 3S3700 packs wired in series, and a 16x8 prop.

On my set up, no weight box or added weight. CG is dead on.

tclaridge
11-03-2007, 02:34 AM
I would like to know if folks prefer a BEC, or seperate rx pack. With only 4 servos, won't an Ultimate BEC handle the amp load just fine, or is it that you can't trust the esc to cutoff the motor, and still have some juice to run the Rx and servos? Opinions?

jonnyjetprop
11-03-2007, 07:03 PM
Ubec (and all other switching BECs)

Pros: Simple, always charged, light weight

Cons: Lose the battery and/or power system, lose the model If you push the limits of the BEC, you can brown out 2.4 ghz receivers (model crashes)

Separate Battery

Pros: The radio always has power. Cheaper if you already have the battery pack.

Cons: Weight, hassle of charging/monitoring another battery

Pushes: While the BEC can fail, so can the nicad battery/switch harness

I generally use a seperate battery on my 40 sized and up planes. I have had the power system/main battery fail. Killed a foam P-38 and by shear luck, only damaged a Freedom 3D (twice)

John




I would like to know if folks prefer a BEC, or seperate rx pack. With only 4 servos, won't an Ultimate BEC handle the amp load just fine, or is it that you can't trust the esc to cutoff the motor, and still have some juice to run the Rx and servos? Opinions?

adwb
01-10-2008, 05:46 PM
This might be a very dumb question, but I have mostly bought pre supplied motor prop combinations or taken shop advice when it came to motor/battery/prop sizing but I have left from Helicopter build a brushless 2800kv Align rcm-bl400lf and several 11.5 volt lipo batteries of various capacities.
would it be possible to use this on the sopworth camel that this thread is discussing?
I have to admit I have tried looking at the motor discussions and advice forums but ending up a bit confused
Any advice or comments will be apreciated,
thank you
Alistair

WWI Ace
01-10-2008, 06:11 PM
I use two 3 cell lipolys wired together with a "jumper" wire. Black to black and red to red. That way it doubles my flying time but it is still only 11.1 volts. Steve

tclaridge
01-11-2008, 03:06 AM
Alistair, that is only a 290 watt motor. You need an 800 to 1000 watt motor. But you could combine two 3s batteries in series to make a 6s. A 6s 5000 mah battery ( 2 x 3S 5000mah) would be good for an Eflite Power 60 BL.

A Power 46 BL likes a 4S or 5S, which is hard to get from a 3S combination.

yflint
01-11-2008, 04:20 PM
Alistair,
Please note the Camel is about 3.9 kgs without the baterries. Therefore forget about the combination you were thinking of.
At the begining I used an E-flite 60 motor with 5S , 6000 mAh but the camel hardly flew. I then changed the set up to be 6S, 4200mAh and the Camel started to fly well. With this setup the total weight of the model is 4/6 kgs.
Yigal

tjones8043
02-10-2008, 11:22 PM
I am currently building (almost finished) a sopwith camel I ordered from aerodromerc.com. It has a 50" wingspan, 740sq. in. wing area and weighs in at 4 lbs. It calls for a 600speed motor and gearbox but i'm going with an E-flite power 25 brushless with a 14 X 7 prop. I wanted the hangar 9 but i was wanting to build something so at $85, I couldn't resist:ws:.

BmacSWA
02-10-2008, 11:42 PM
I'd love to pics. Post them when you get the chance.

Brian

yflint
02-11-2008, 06:09 PM
I am currently building (almost finished) a sopwith camel I ordered from aerodromerc.com. It has a 50" wingspan, 740sq. in. wing area and weighs in at 4 lbs. It calls for a 600speed motor and gearbox but i'm going with an E-flite power 25 brushless with a 14 X 7 prop. I wanted the hangar 9 but i was wanting to build something so at $85, I couldn't resist:ws:.
I purchased from Aerodrome the PT-17 Stearman about two years ago.
I liked very much the accuracy of the pieces . The model fly very well from the first test flight.

tjones8043
02-12-2008, 03:17 AM
I'd love to pics. Post them when you get the chance.

Brian

I haven't attatched the bottom wings yet.
http://www.wattflyer.com/photopost/data/500/thumbs/sopcamel.jpg

tjones8043
02-12-2008, 03:35 AM
http://www.wattflyer.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=2261][img]http://www.wattflyer.com/photopost/data/500/thumbs/sopcamel.jpg
Can't seem to figure out how to post the pic????. Sorry. here's a link
www.wattflyer.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=2261] (http://www.wattflyer.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=2261])[img]http://www.wattflyer.com/photopost/data/500/thumbs/sopcamel.jpg

tjones8043
02-12-2008, 03:45 AM
I love (like most of you) the ideal of flying this Airplane. However I love to build as much as fly and am having one hell of a time finding a like aircraft in just wood parts. Plans alone for this scale plane would be welcome. Have I missed a thread with the same question? Can anyone point me in the right direction? I even contacted Horizon looking for just the wood kit and plans and was laughed at (figuratively anyway). I'll beg, borrow, trade, steal or buy whatever to find such a kit.

aerodromerc.com has one similar but its a little smaller at 50" wingspan $85 for plans and laser cut kit

WWW.aerodromerc.com (http://www.aerodromerc.com)

Just finished it today! Here are the pics:
http://www.wattflyer.com/photopost/data/500/camel_finished.jpg
http://www.wattflyer.com/photopost/data/500/kaylea_camel.jpg

http://www.wattflyer.com/photopost/data/500/020308_08471.jpg

http://www.wattflyer.com/photopost/data/500/camel_and_trojan.jpg

yflint
02-29-2008, 08:48 PM
Hi Tjones,
Here is my finished PT-17 built from Aerodrome kit.

tjones8043
03-03-2008, 09:52 PM
Hi Tjones,
Here is my finished PT-17 built from Aerodrome kit.

Looks great, has a lot of detail. The sopwith is my first build so im sure it lacks a lot of luster but I learned a lot in the process:ws:. Just started building a Super cub from scratch (79" wingspan):<:.

adwb
03-07-2008, 06:52 PM
For all Camel devotes here is a very nice link to a Camel video

Alistair
http://www.youtube.com/swf/l.swf?video_id=qtprTL66-FY&rel=1&eurl=http%3A//www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php%3Fp%3D371541%26posted%3D1%23post371 541&iurl=http%3A//i.ytimg.com/vi/qtprTL66-FY/default.jpg&t=OEgsToPDskK-AnPtce1eEO0P7v_bqYpF

Glacier Girl
08-13-2008, 09:23 PM
Well to revive an old forum, here's Snoopy in fast pursuit of the Red Baron, last week at my fly in.

What a hoot this is to fly. :D

tunes
05-27-2012, 05:39 PM
well after 5 years and 3 moves, I am going to finally put this camel together.
I disasembled it where i was (about half assembled) back in 2007 and it has been in its box waiting for me to have the time and the space to get it onto the workbench.

Somewhere along the way, probably back in 2007 or 2008, I bought a laser cut plywood battery tray/motor mount for the Hangar 9 Sopwith Camel.
I just opened up the plastic bag and for the life of me, I cant figure out how it is supposed to fit into the plane, lol
If there were instructions I cant find them, and if they were online, I cant find where I got it from.
My only hope was to see if there was a posting here or on the rc groups thread which I was following back in the day about someone who way making the tray.
I cant find it. Does anyone here remember seeing a posting about such a beast?

a link would be great, or at least where it was posted to.

Thanks for any help,
Cheers,

Rob

tunes
05-27-2012, 05:44 PM
Found it, I hadnt been going back far enough to find the right thread.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=566943&highlight=hangar+9+sopwith+camel&page=13

tclaridge
05-27-2012, 05:56 PM
CG is critical on this plane, so watch your tail weight as you build. Add everything you can up front in the cowl. What motor are you running? I found that the Power 46 worked fine, but I was very careful with weight.

tunes
05-27-2012, 06:29 PM
Ive got the power 60 here that I bought for another plane, I might pickup a 46.
the motormount/batt tray i picked up for this plane might not work with the P60 but I know that others have used it with the P46.

I am trying to get in touch with whoever made it to get installation instructions, I dont want to cut too much of the stock firewall away.

Yes I know it is easy to build this plane too tail heavy so i will me moving the servos ahead as well and lightening anything aft of the spar line.

Thanks

tunes
05-28-2012, 02:38 PM
Well I think the tray was made by Lynxman as another posted referred to it as the "Lynx Tray"
I have sent some PMs on but wondered if anyone on this thread has seen this tray and or used it.
What I need is confirmation that none of the parts, except for the firewall, should be doubled. In the bag there are almost enough parts to build two trays and I cant figure out why there are so many duplicated parts.
Also, the length of the box below the battery tray which is used as a motor mount, seems much shorter that the standoff mount that I had started to mount when I started this build years ago. It looks like the motor will be about a 1/2 inch closer to the firewall than I had it mounted before.
I have read that the tray is intended for the power 60 which is what I have to put into it.
Well if anyone here has used it and can provide any info or pictures of it's installation I would appreciate it.
Or if anyone knows where that info is, please post a link or PM it to me.

Thanks

Rob 'Tunes' O

tclaridge
05-28-2012, 03:31 PM
I have heard the Power 46 is better on 5S. I run a 4S 5000 (33mm x 49mm), and was able to cut a square (with rounded corners) out of the middle of the fire wall, and fit the battery within the motor mount. I think a 5S 4000mah (34mm x 50mm)would fit the same way.

Glacier Girl
05-29-2012, 05:13 PM
tunes, read a little further, post #224 and 225 have some shots and a zip file of the mount. And I think it's around post #230 has a pretty much step by step with photos of it.

tunes
05-29-2012, 09:26 PM
Thanks,
yes I have seen them all now.
Doesnt really explain how high up the firewall the base of the battery tray shoudl be to center the prop shaft out the center of the dummy engine so I am going to cut it too high and assemble it and slowly lower the base of the battery tray until I can lower the motor mount the correct amount.
Also It doesnt explain why I received almost double everything. with the exception of only having 2 firewalls, I could built two complete battery trays.
The Pics that Steve posted in this thread was excellent at confirming what I was thinking about the tray's assembly.

Cheers