ive com up with a circuit that will make storing of lipos a breeze. I would have printed circuit boards built if there were a market for them. mine discharges 4 lipos at a time. selectable voltage and very accurate. It shuts itself down by itself safely and accurately.

I have an unidentified Turborix motor which was supplied with a Turborix 60 A ESC, for "big" models. I tried it with a LiPo 3s 2200 battery in a Lanzo Bomber (2.2metre) and an 11x4 prop. It flew, in ground effect only.

I could easily fit two identical packs to give 24 volts. I wonder about the risks of cooking either the motor or the ESC. What precautions should I take?

Best wishes.:)

Even in XP Compatibility mode it don't work. It's been quite a while since I've flown an R.C. Plane, so I'd kinda like a sim to "brush up" a little, and the FMS one won't work...are there any others I might try?

HOW TO FIX WARPS, DENTS, TWISTS OR UNCRUNCH FOAM PARTS
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=66805

The article at this link covers the use of heat, applied in various ways to help you bring a bent foam part back into shape. It will also show you how to take dents out of foam.

I thought I had posted this article here already but can't find it. This is for all you foamy glider guiders and your Easy Gliders, Radians and similar. This should help fix a world of problems.


HOW TO FIX WARPS, DENTS, TWISTS OR UNCRUNCH FOAM PARTS
by Ed Anderson

I never crash, but maybe you do. Crashing can crunch the foam of a Radian or other foam planes to the point that the parts don’t fit or it introduces a twist or warp as you try to put it back together. Or it can introduce a twist or warp in the fuselage. I am going to outline a method of getting the foam back to straight or uncrunching parts. This can also be used to take twists or warps out of new parts and it will take dents out of your foam wings or even bagged wings, like DLG wings.

Let’s suppose your Radian, Easy Glider, Easy Star, etc. has a tendency to turn in the air requiring you to trim in a lot of rudder to get it to fly straight. How can you fix it? Well first you have to find the cause. Turn your foamy over and site down the fuselage seam. It should be straight from nose to tail. Or, tape a piece of string to the tail end of the fuse, again inverted and then gently stretch the string to the nose. It should track down the center of the fuse. If it does not, you have a warp. We are going to fix it.

This can happen at the factory, from a fuse not sitting right in the box or from a crash where one side of the fuselage compressed from an impact. This can also happen if you leave a foam plane in a hot car for a long time. Believe me, what you will learn here will come in handy for the rest of your foam flying life.

Heat does wonderful things to foam. It can stretch it, expand it and help straighten it. You can put twists in or take them out. You can use this when making some foam replacement parts too.

Since we are fixing the fuse, take the wings off, you won't need them. Take the h-stab off if it comes off. Tape the rudder so it is straight.

Try to figure out where the warp is centered. I am going to guess it will start behind the wings, somewhere along the boom. Flex the fuse to see if you can get it to look straight. You may have to use something to apply pressure in the center of the curve on the opposite side to get it straight. If you can flex it to straight, you can fix it.

Basically you are going to apply heat to the inside of the curve as you flex the boom away from the curve and a bit past straight. As you apply heat the gas that is trapped in the foam beads will expand. As the beads expand they extend that side of the fuselage making the heated side longer and helping you take that warp out. If this was caused by a crash this will uncrunch the crunched beads.

This goes under various names, but you might hear it called the Elapor soup method as it really became popular with the Mulitplex Elapor foam planes. But it works well with most beaded type foams. Easy Star pilots would crunch the nose of the plane in a crash. They would plunge the nose, Elapor foam, it into boiling water and the foam would expand, thus the soup reference.

Heat Methods.

HOT running tap water - You hold the part to be expanded under the hot water while you shape it. In this case you flex the fuse just a little past straight while it is under the running hot water. The foam beads will expand, extending that side of the fuse. After a minute or two you take the fuse out from under the water, still holding it and let it cool. Then site and see if it took. Go back under the water if needed. As tap water is only 100 to 140 degrees sometimes this is not hot enough to do the job. So we need more heat.

Placing the part into boiling water - this works well for small pieces like a rudder a wing tip or a crunched nose. You can also pour boiling water over the area.

Steam from boiling water sometimes works. Use a BIG pot and make lots of steam. This works well for large areas like wings.

My favorite is using a heat gun/hair dryer to heat a wet cloth or paper towels. Don't let the towels dry out completely. You heat the wet cloth till it steams and starts to dry out. You have the part stretched while you do it, just as above.

BTW this works well for bagged composite wings, like DLG wings. It can take a dent our by heating the foam under the skin. I use paper towels and my covering iron. They just magically disappear. Works well for dents in your Raidan, Easy Glider, etc. here you want to be more focused, so a covering iron or a hot clothes iron is best. Just use the tip to focus the heated area over the dent.

In each case the purpose of the water is to keep the foam from getting too hot and melting. We want to get it up to about the temperature of boiling water, though sometimes hot tap water, 120 to 140 degrees can do it too.

Using these methods I have taken Radians and Easy Gliders that have been broken into numerous smashed and crushed pieces, reshaped the foam and glued it back together with great success. Recently I shredded my Radian while slope soaring. A high speed crash through bare tree branches did a nice job on the fuse. The wings just came and got a few dents, but the fuse was in 5 pieces. It flies today!

Regardless of the method, you want to spread the expand over a somewhat broad area, not a pinpoint. Again, in the case of dents in a wing you want to be more targeted. That is why I use my covering iron rather than a heat gun.

In the case of the fuse we are using as our example, you want to expand the most in the center of the warp curve but you want to extend that somewhat forward and back of the center or you will have to overheat one area too much and perhaps not have enough expansion ability to make it work.

Try it! If you have some scrap Styrofoam or other beaded foam you can try this out for practice. Take a foam drinking cup. cut out the bottom. Now do a top to bottom slice. Use the method above and see if you can take the curve out of the foam and make it flat. You may not get it totally flat but you will see the impact. Note that the cup material is thin so don’t heat it to much at once or you will expand all the bead instead of just the ones on the inside of the curve. The heated beads will get bigger.

When working on a fuse, wings or other parts, be sure you don't introduce a twist as you do this or you will have another problem. But no worry, that can be fixed too.

Clear Skies and Safe Flying.

This being my first post, I hope I am clear about my problem.
I bought a second-hand airplane (Hobbico Electristar) from a trusted modeler. He stated he 'only flew it a couple of times'. It looks brand new.
The only change I have made was swapping out the receiver.
The problem is I don't seem to be getting much power. It uses much more runway to takeoff than others and does not climb very well.
Here is the power system: Batteries - 2x 2S 3200mAh 20C Electrifly Lipo wired in series, ESC - (stock) Electrifly SS-45D does not use BEC - separate rx battery, Motor (stock) cannot find much for specs. In a review by Greg Covey, he stated that he was getting about 440 watts.
When I put my GT Power Analyzer in the circuit, I was only getting about 250 - 275 watts. The voltage started at 16.4V and dropped to to 12.8 during a static run-up and rebounded to 15.9V. It also showed a peak amps of 20.4A.
On my first "flight" I hit weeds on the side of the runway just after liftoff, "landed" nose down and broke the tip of one prop blade. I replaced the prop with the same spec. (11X7) APC electric prop.
What could be causing the low power output?
Thanx... ????

Let me start this out by saying that I love my 9303 DSMX upgraded radio. It has served me well and I have no issues with it.

Why change then? Good question. There has been an awful lot of talk about locks out and other issues at both SEFF and other large events. It's not so much that it does not work for me, like I said I haven't had any problems, but I seem to have lost faith in the system. And that is not a good thing.

I do feel like the DSM/2/X is a good system and it works well. What I have noticed though is the market saturation of this system. It had to be 90% or better at SEFF.

Is the other brands that you never hear of issues with that much better or is just that there isn't that many using them to see the same problems the DSM systems are seeing?

In one respect I feel like I should just keep flying, on the other hand I'm ready for a change.

Just not sure what to do right now.

Without starting a flame war between the brands please provide input as to why you think a system is good. Please don't start bashing the "other" radio.
Facts as much as possible as opposed to speculation. Too much of that already.

Thanks