Help on a problem on a build, tail wheel assembly
 

I'm putting together a new sbach 342 from pilot rc and the tail wheel I have is different than the instructions. The instructions are web based only so it looks like the instructions cover several planes, problem I'm having is the parts are different I don't have the same thing so I need to change slightly. On the parts I have a spring instead of a rod to control tail wheel direction but I cant find anything to attach the spring to the rudder. If I use a cut off section from the throttle pushrod and glue it in to the rudder and bend it over will that be enough? that is similar to the instructions minus their specific part the "rudder steering tube".

May I suggest a method that goes a long way to not damaging the rudder in event of accident to tail end ....

It uses a rubber band as the connector between rudder and hooked tail wheel leg ....

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y24...-wheellink.jpg

Simply a length of wire pushed and glued into base of rudder after bending a hook in end. As you can see from the picture ... a similar hook end in tail wheel leg ...

Yes that would work but I'm not sure a rubber band would be enough for a 1/4 scale 3d plane and my question was more about using a section of the throttle rod as a replacement for the steering tube. Will that work?

Yes it would work, but any abuse the tail wheel takes will be transferred directly to the rudder and rudder servo.

The spring set up more then likely is just a heavier duty take on solentlife's set up.

The spring absorbs the shock from the tail wheel so the rudder isn't abused.

I've used the spring set up on some pretty big and small birds and it works.

Thanks GG, I thought it would work but I needed a second opinion.

install a dowl at the bottom of the rudder so it sticks out about 3/8" and about 1" above the bottom, use a rubber band or o ring from one side to the other with the spring wire on the bottom of the rudder and the rubber band securing the spring wire to the rudder. hope that helps, Chellie

http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/atta...6&d=1235180454



http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/atta...7&d=1235180454

http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/atta...9&d=1238377779

Chellie, Yeah that helps but that setup won't work with this tail wheel because it does not have a heavy arm like that and I don't think I could make one that would work.

Here are some pics of what I did for a tail wheel so as not to damage the rudder. I fly off of a rough field and this has worked great so far.
I used 2 control horns on the rudder from these I mounted to small springs to the control on the tail wheel assembly. Now I have a working tail wheel and I don't have to worry about the rudder being damaged. I found this at the LHS and had to modify it to work for my plane. So far so good and I have been able to taxi no problems.

Something along this set up.
http://shop.dubro.com/products/produ...4.0.0.0?pp=12&

The rubber band idea as I posted works on big models as well as small. I have it on my 15cc powered Skymaster Bipe .... and I've seen it on much bigger models.

The beauty of the set-up is that it's easy to fit, the rubber band can be increased or decreased as you want, no load at all on rudder, gives excellent shock absorbing, totally adjustable ... a pack of standard rubber bands from local shop will last you years ! The set-up is barely visible under the rudder so has cosmetic appeal as well .... sorry Chellie but a dowel and band round with a great big arm as well ? Not exactly nice looking ? To be honest with that - I would elongate hole in arm, stick a headed pin through into rudder base instead of the rubber band etc.

For those that don't believe the band idea is strong or secure enough ... on 30th Oct. - I had no bands in my box and one on my big Bipe had broken ... no worries. She tracked straight based on rudder and a free tail wheel. All I lost was the ability to turn on the ground.

I've modified many of my models years ago to this system ... it works.


In fact to original poster ... why fiddle with springs ? that give you little or no adjustability etc.

Chellie I wish we had a cool gal like you around here in NC. One of these days I will get to California and we will have to go flying. A couple of Old Wrench Turners living large :D:D:D:D:D When I hurt my back and the Dr.s told me I would never work on heavy equipment again. I had a fire sale on all my Snap-On Tools over 1 1/4" I actully sold a 1' drive set that went from 7/8" to 41/2" to some dude in Dutch Harbor Alaska. The dang shipping cost him $400.00 dollars, but then again he got a $6000.00 set for $3000.00 and we where both happy. You just dont sell 1" drive stuff at the flea Market.

That would be cool, Know what, It would be nice if everyone ( Wattflyers ) could get together in the middle of the US for about 1 week :) and just fly, build, BBQ, Drink beer :D or wine coolers, but dont fly and drink ;-) that way, just about everyone can make it, and it wont cost a arm and a leg to travel Half way across the states :ws: I just sold some diesel engine tools on Ebay that I am Never going to use again, and some RC stuff that i have not used in over 2 years, I have a lot of sockets too that i need to sell, little by little ;) Take care and have fun, Chellie