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-   -   screwed up and would like to share the mistake on the rv 4-40 (http://www.Wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=72903)

tobydogs 01-01-2014 11:03 PM

screwed up and would like to share the mistake on the rv 4-40
5 Attachment(s)
hello fellow builders,iv' been building the RV 4-40 since last winter and spent the last few days covering. I'm now up to installing the servos and horns only to dicover a mistake while installing the push rods for the rudder and elevator.

the elevator uses 2 push rods,one for each half and i just discovered my error....:censor: really deserves more :censor::censor::censor:.

the 2 push rod tubes that are permanently epoxied in place are exiting where the rudder should have exited and of coarse the rudder tube is where the elevator tubes should have been. my solution is simple and straight forward.

in the pictures supplied you get to see the error and the joiner piece i now need to install sitting on the elevators. i will have to join the elevator halves by using a dremell to slightly cut a recess to seat the joiner and epoxy it in place and then fabricate a thin plywood cap to complete the epoxying for strength. the caps will be small an covered in the yellow monacoat.

everything was going so smoothly with this build and the wing turned out straight even with the funky design greatplanes did. it was a pleasant assembly.

i'm open to any suggestions as i don't plan on spending any more time working on this till the weekend. we are expecting 8 to 10 inchs of snow friday.

as the saying goes....do-do happens,fix it and go fly!!:Q stu

CHELLIE 01-02-2014 02:45 AM

Hi Stu :ws: Happy New Year :ws: The push rod tubes are not needed, I never use them with a y push rod, just cut a slot in the Fuselage where the elevator push rods should go, and move the push rod down to where it should be at, to get the push rods to go into the new slot, use a long piece of rod or wire, tape it to the y push rod ends, and pull both rods with the y push rod attached to it, simple ;-) no need to cut up your elevator. hope that helps, Chellie

fhhuber 01-02-2014 04:05 AM

Yep... Better to just move the pushrods to the correct locations if possible.

I have an RV4 kit here and can look at the instructions to see if there's any reason not to move the pushrods.

tobydogs 01-03-2014 02:34 AM

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if i hadn't covered everything before discovering my error i would consider redoing the push rods. i installed the steel joiner to the elevator in around 1/2 hour. complete with covering and am very happy with it's strength.

looks like no work Friday do to snow falling tonight into Friday morning. so after clearing a few driveways I'll install the servos and start the motor/esc connections,then connect everything to the rx/tx. set all the trims.

lastly,i have to find a pilot figure,i figured a small stuffed toy head and just need to choose a good funny type head. cut and glue the canopy and also finish trim sheets for decorating the rv to look just like the old one.

tobydogs 01-03-2014 03:59 PM

wooohooo!!!its 11 am and 10" of fresh powder snow cleared off 6 driveways and walks for the neighbors. once i get the blower running i love to methodically clear snow.:D seriously love the amount of work that blower does with out hardly any effort to drive it around. blowing snow is a science i may not have mastered but sure love doing.

now the best part of all!!!! i get to work on the RV 4 all weekend!!! now thats what i call having it made!!!:Q

solentlife 01-03-2014 05:39 PM

Have to say that I would have poked another hole and worked the rods to correct place.

But a wire joiner is what is in most of my models - but as you found - not so easy to fit when elevators already in place. I had to do it on one model - so I actually cut trenches into the two halves, dribbled epoxy into the trenches ... passed the wire through rudder hinge line ... laid it into the trenches and then smoothed the epoxy .... let dry. Covered and it's been fine for years. It also g'teed absolutely aligned elevators.
I usually try to get one leg trapped by the control horn if possible ..


tobydogs 01-03-2014 06:34 PM

i found it to go in very easy.....way easier to do then redo the pushrods. I'll post some pictures later. my wife and i are hooked on a tv show called "breaking bad" only just started watching season 1 last week and we are going through season 3 now......i don't know what it is ,but no commercials is like watching a long movie and always wanting to know what happen next.[popcorn] clearing snow has wiped me out a bit so resting up is very desirable. i used a dremel to cut the notch for the joiner and 2 part epoxy. very ,very easy and took a 1/2 hour. to relocate the push rods would have required pealing the bottom covering so i could remove the tubes and get at the formers. so i am glad it's ready to go. i really don't know why greatplanes does the parallel rods,it's added weight. it does look cool though and i have it on the greatplanes extra 300s i built. 64" wingspan.

one thing i could do with the double pushrods as the are now is make a pull/pull rudder:ws:,it to would be very easy to do using the double tubes. i guess i would need to use braided wire for that and not the piano wire rods.

now i'm getting in the mood to venture down stairs to the workshop for a little experimenting.:tc:

solentlife 01-03-2014 07:02 PM

Dual rods ? I always used a Y yoke on end of single rod for mine.

The beauty of dual horns though is individual adjustment.


tobydogs 01-03-2014 11:31 PM

6 Attachment(s)
these pictures show the rod tubes down the formers and the "Y" idea would make more sense then the duel pushrod where weight is concerned. the 2 center tubes were meant for the elevator but one is used as the rudder. the left side tube is now the elevator. so alls well. as far as the joiner in the elevator halve go,i used a 1/16th pc of base wood to strengthen the area since it wasn't designed for the joiner and i also did get the joiner with the servo horn and screws.

I've got the servos installed and the rx battery and rx switch all set. spent a while setting all the trims mech first and then thru the tx i set the rates for high and lows with 30% expo on each channel.

Saturday i solder in the esc and locate the cg for final placement of the rx battery which is a 6 volt 5cell nmih and can go in any direction needed so i won't be adding lead weight.

the last picture is the next project which I'm waiting for the esc to arrive, a hobbywing 60amp. box say 90mph+ but we'll see.

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