Walkera QR X350
[ATTACH]I have been flying home brew quads for two years. They have all been MultiWii types and very simply made from pine and ply. They flew well and taught me a heap but they looked like "Blitzwaggons" which was fine at the usual price of about $120.
But as I got better and the crashes got fewer I was really keen to try something that looked good too.. I wanted a good GPS system and I wanted to carry FPV and I bit the bullet to the tune of $400 and bought a Walkera QR 350.
The reviews were pretty sad. Complaints about soldering, plugs, the legs, aerial position, transmitter battery pack, transmitter functions etc etc. But I had paid the money so I had to grit my teeth and look big while I waited three days for delivery (I think that's a record for me.)
Today I flew it with all those thoughts in mind. AND I LOVE IT !!!!:ws:
Oh Yeah. This is the real thing. I'm gonna propose; not to crash it.
If there is anything about this model you want to know I will be happy to tell you the good and the bad. Like I do hate the legs and I will have to take more care with landings.:eek:
But it looks like one tough little critter to me.:D
Walkera QR 350
I'm so glad you are loving this Quad. I've been looking for some to do a review of this model warts and all so if you feel you would like to give me a straight up honest account with pics or videos then please mail me email@example.com
It has taken one "full-on" week ......
.... to unravel the mysteries of this beautiful Quad. It has been a very real challenge for my 70 year old brain, but I suppose that the strain has heightened my sense of achievement. No parts are broken or scratched and it still flies beautifully.
So what are the secrets.
1) If the receiver does not respond to the transmitter it is most likely that it is not bound. In that situation, arm yourself with several hours and a supply of the preferred drink and find out how to achieve "FIXID". In the transmitters range of files which can be tweaked this one, to me, was among the most puzzling of the many weird new concepts.
The factory technicians produced a machine which was capable of all the claims made for it but they have since been constantly upgrading the control files and the latest version automatically goes into each new transmitter.
When you do a standard "bind" between most transmittesr and receivers it only opens the right channel for the communication. In this case that process is quite different and the paperwork did not help very much at all. But the sales team did. It was their vital suggestion that I take the FIXID route. The abbreviated title means FIXED IDENTIFICATION CODE INSTALLATION.
The transmitter has a unique identification code built into it and when you install that key it does much more than open the communication channel. It brings the flight controller up to date with all the latest refinements to the programme, as they were installed in the transmitter.
And it really made a big difference. Do not ignore this advice. I found that out the hard way. The manual does not clearly state that the FIXID process is significantly different to a "standard bind".
Now the hard part of all this is that installing FIXID is not just a "pressing the buttons" procedure. You have to dismantle the clam shell body to erase any bind code which you might have put in there, or which might have got in there in the factory, or at the retailers.
It is not really hard and the tools are in the kit, but you will need a spare hour (the first time) and you will need to be free of distractions in that hour. The instructions are not, first time, self explanatory from the transmitter screen. You should download the Devo 7 manual. My new Windows 7 had issues with the disc in the kit. My XP machine could handle it but I decided to go for "the latest version" as I was getting neurotic.
2) This post is getting too long but let me say that the control system in the transmitter needs to be checked and the critical section is in the "OUTPUT" section of the Model Files. This section controls the switches which turn on and off the GPS functions. I had trouble loading the sequence. I think the difficulty was due to a printing error. The required input information for the Gear and Flap switches fails to tell you to "exit" after "confirming".
It could be that these files would not have needed ammendment if I had done the FIXID trick before I started programming the transmitter.
3) When you think it is ready to fly and when you intend to try the GPS you must never ignore any feed back from the LED's which does not conform with the written description. This is most critically important for the calibration steps. I would suggest that the three calibration procedures become part of your pre-flight checks every time. If the lights are not showing you what you were told to expect you would be advised to either; solve the mystery or only fly in "manual mode".
4) I wanted to know if there was any way of proving that the GPS functions were correctly switched. And there is, "sort of". The manual says that you cannot arm the motors if the GPS functions or the IOC switches are on. The reverse of that logic is that, if you can arm the motors with either of those switches on, then the GPS is not ready to go. That is a useful double check.
I am certain that most of the stories told about mysterious events with this machine are due to pilots imagining that the control systems were the same as in other manufacturers' products. That is a most dangerous assumption. In the future these "eccentricities" such as these are likely to be more common, so get used to it and proceed carefully.
Like me you will be SO GLAD YOU DID !!!! :D
Thank you Birdmanpete for the update and info on the Walkera...I had looked at this one when it first came out for retail.......some of your review confirmed my doubts and reinforced others.......after having made a few academic researches and test flying both the similar Phantoms and Blades....I'm now convinced the best bang for the buck (IMO) will be the Blade QX 350....!
I've owned (more than I can remember) Walkera's, both co-ax, fixed pitch and CCP's....even though they were many times the first on the market, they where seldom "state of the art" after 6 months of circulation...seems that has held true with their Quads as well.......
Thanks again for the heads-up!
A worthy contender
I had not seen the Blade when I placed my rather impulsive order. It does look good. More importantly my experience with the mQX, has taught me that Blade really invests in their hard copy manual. That is a lesson Walkera might well follow but it is an expensive detail. The Technology revolution has made it possible to provide all that support at much lower cost and I urge Walkera to rise to that challenge.
I noted the Battery to aircraft plugs. Walkera has that problem too. I fitted my preferred type (XT60) as soon as I got it. I also saw the flight duration issue, which is common to high energy quads. Set up your transmitter timer. It provides a very useful backup.
I look forward to hearing how it goes for you; it surely does look neat. :D
I'll let you know birdmanpete.....it will be awhile, I'm slowly moving up the size scale, just like I did with heli's....looking at the various 180-200 size right now. There are some very interesting models out....almost all have somekind of "smart" technology that seems outstanding. most seem durable as well......I'll report back as I progress.
Not too clever to be too smart.
It seems like a month but I have only been flying my QR X350 for ten days and largely it has been incident free.
There were two ugly moments when I accidentally flicked the GPS (mix) switch into its Return Home position. On the first occasion I simply flicked it off (back to manual) and flew on. Not so good on the second mis-switch. It roared up the sky and my first reaction was to drop the throttle (bad) nothing good happened. It was still on its way to heaven when, for my second, much worse, trick I flicked off both GPS settings and it was heading straight for hell. It got there very quickly but was almost unmarked. After a small adjustment to the battery hatch, I was back in business.
That's when I chose to make the mix switch a little less accident prone. I am still convinced that it is badly positioned.
But last night it got much worse. After two successful hover holds I had a weird loss of control. I was lucky that this happened while mere inches above the ground and flying very slowly within four metres. I was turning left around myself when it seemed to resist the turn and then lurched into the ground. I'm not sure if I added power as it went but it cartwheeled hard and fast. After re-calibrating I launched twice more and exactly the same thing happened. Once to the right and once more to the left. I had no idea what was wrong and took it home, very frustrated. Until I knew what was causing the problem I felt it had to be retired. (The only damage a slightly bent prop. They are very tough props).
When I got home I thought about unplugging all GPS functions but eventually decided to switch off the FIXED ID. This took 40 minutes. (I am getting quicker) My thinking was muddled. I am not sure there is any benefit in going back to random ID. But while I was re-calibrating I noted that the IOC switch (Intelligent Orientation Control) which I have never understood, was in its "on" position and I had no idea when it had been tripped.
In the picture you will see that the three switches Mix, Ail D/R and IOC are close together. I have marked the mix switch and inhibited the other two with blue tac. I never use D/R in a Quad and I don't have a clue about IOC.
More than ever I feel that this very "smart" system has some very "unclever" details, all of which need much better explanation. The use of function switches complicates flying the model and demands confident application.
Today I flew again and all went well. It is still super smooth and looks fabulous (to me). I am happy again but anxious. :concern:
Forgot the Picture
I still seem a bit muddled.:roll:
Can I help ?
I am now convinced that my QRX 350 is doing exactly what it was intended to do. The irritating difficulties I experienced in the first ten days are attributable to poor documentation on the manufacturer's part and poor judgement on mine.
For the moment I am checking switches and then doing a full calibration before flying, after each battery change. It takes about one minute but that is no burden because it takes almost exactly that time before I pick up the 5 satellites needed for reliable GPS function.
If you have had problems with one of these or if you know someone who has please get in touch with me. I am feeling confident that I can lead you through the maze.
I have never found any fault with the actual flying and really enjoy how smooth and quiet it is. I am also pleasantly surprised to find how easily I am reading the flight trajectory. In daylight it has the least visual references of any of my 12 quads (currently flying) and yet that slightly off centre, black canopy tells me most of what I need to know. In low light levels and at night the illumination from the LED's is fabulous.
I wonder what effect those LED's have on flight duration. They must have some impact. A switch which turns them on and off might be a very good variation in future models. But duration does not worry me. I always turn on the TX timer for six minutes when I first arm the motors and have never had a forced landing.
Before going to hover hold, I fly to a clearly identifiable spot, at shoulder height. Then I level the roll axis and hold a little forward pitch before flicking to the first mix switch position. There is usually a tiny shift in height with the switch. This variation depends on whether the model was actually rising or falling when the switch was made. If it was descending, it rises; and if rising, it descends. But these "twitches" never exceed a metre. I have never had to "rescue" the mission with more throttle. Once I am certain it has "locked on" I take care not to change any of the stick positions. On releasing the GPS mix switch to manual, the transition has always been smooth.
I am not planning to test the RTH feature just yet. My park is a bit small and I can never be certain that the area is clear of passers by and wandering dogs.:rolleyes:
I am slowly getting used to the QRX. It is very different to most of my scratch built Multi-Wii types. It is super critical at startup to being level. Today I went out on my grassy field with a stiffish card base and a spirit level to be a little more precise. I have always known that the spirit level (my grandfathers- pre WW1) was not entirely accurate. The Walkera thought it was an improvement on my usual guess but still had its own sense of level.
I am trying to understand why it is that when I go to "hover hold" it sometimes fails to lock the position but it always holds the height. Today was a case in point. I had not done a full calibration and that might explain it.
I did my usual "arm" test to see if the GPS was refusing to allow arming and then forgot to reset the mix switch before opening the throttle. Never done this before. It lifted about a foot and then set itself firmly down with the tell tale Led doing its "not now, you idiot, blink." Well that is very surprising but I can live with it.::o
The trail got tougher.
While I have been having a ball with my QR X350 in its regular flying (manual) mode I have run into some real difficulties with the GPS functions. These problems went much deeper than the position of the switches. I was having less than ten percent success with the hover hold. For me that is the base camp for this assault on Everest. If you cannot achieve a reliable hover hold, you must not (in fairness to the rest of the world, the love of your life or your bank manager.) go any further with the GPS functions. This has to be sorted. If it is working just fine right now; save your time and forget you ever saw this page.
The reason for the difficulty I had, pivots on the distinction between this programme design and the Multi-Wii versions. Those systems have an intermediate stage between Acro/Manual and Hover Hold. It's usually known as Level or Angle mode. Walkera decided that that was not strictly necessary and for lots of happy campers I am sure they were right. But mine simply did not play ball. It is hard to know how widespread this problem might be but I am sure I was never the only pebble on the beach. The reports of first flight disasters are a clear sign of a worrying issue.
Without a level/angle mode to serve as a buffer, the relationship between the "launch site" and the flight controller's "level axis" becomes very critical. In effect the aircraft is designed to be "calibration tuned" and launched with a true vertical lift off with no trim bias on any axis. After dozens of failures and only five successful hover holds, I suddenly wondered what would happen if I adjusted the leg lengths until the aircraft lifted straight up in still air with all trims in their mid position. The Devo 7 has a very curious trim system and this should have aroused my suspicions much earlier. It does not give a very positive visual sense of any positions other than the mid points and the extremes. But they give a huge audio cue when centered. That's because that is where they are really meant to be. The spacing of the control throws is also very finely tuned and tiny amounts of off centre trim make calibration uncertain or impossible. I could never trim the accelerometers without first recentering the pitch trim from it's almost constant far forward position. That should have set the alarm bells ringing a fortnight ago.
So my lovely Alien now wears build-ups. Tonight they look a bit clunky but I will find a smart version very soon. In my case the correction needed was 4mm on the rear right leg and 2.74mm on the rear left. That was what it took to straighten up the "power-up, horizontal reference measurement" and thus remove a still air drift (in neutral trim) rearwards and right.
And the effect was instant. Four batteries were flattened in quick succession. In each case the hover lock was entered at 2 metres altitude, ten metres up wind of me (in a ten knot wind). In each case it was obvious that the lock was established within fifteen seconds. Then I rose to the challenge and paraded my lovely body in front of the on board camera while holding the position (no hands) for more than a minute.
As a general principle I would urge this test (for thirty seconds) as the first step after take off with each and every battery change. On this occasion I did no calibrations at all between batteries as I have been testing in this part of this field (and no-where else) for weeks.
With respect the badly positioned switches. My advice is that the GPS switch should not be operated with the index finger alone. Move it with the thumb and finger, slowly and deliberately. This will reduce the real risk of accidentally engaging Return to Home. That disaster is instantly recognisable if you deliberately make the Hover Hold location significantly to one side of the calibration site. Given that approach there will be a vigorous flat yaw turn from the model as it realigns for its trip home. It will almost certainly want to gain a lot of height at the same time. In such a crisis your thumb and index finger should still be touching the switch. Do not adjust the throttle ever, while any GPS function is being performed. It will create other problems too awful to be mentioned here.
With my confidence hugely boosted it will soon be time for me to get my head around IOC (Intelligent Orientation Control). I will report in detail.
29 days, 75 battery charges, a little worry and a lot of fun. No crsahes, one "arrival" no obvious scratches and no damaged props. That has got to be good and it is gonna get better.
Always remember though; RTH is not an ejector seat and slack flying is much too expensive.
Short and to the Point.
1) Since launching with neutral trims from a proven level surface I have had 100% hover hold locks:D
2) Altitude in Hover hold varies (average + or - 500mm) but you can trim it, without changing the hold point. Add or subtract a little power and confirm the new height achieved with a micron of opposite.:D
3) IOC is great but the pitch and roll response is different (reversed) when engaged at a point aft of the Start Up Calibration. Try to always fly in front of that "Start Up Home Calibration".:D
4) RTH really does the job in aircraft with working batteries, proven Hover Hold and the current field's, "Start Up Home Calibration":D
5) 3 Low battery forced descents show me that it can work.:D But there is a risk that the ground may not be clear or level. I am averaging 8 mins from 2200mah batteries. The transmitter's 7 min alarm is much better.:D
ONE MONTH. 45 battery charges, two heavy landings, no crashes, no spare parts. All good.:D:D:D
Missing my Quads.
I am am away from home and thinking about the fleet (and smartest of the bunch, the Walkera)
It flew every day for seven weeks before I went on holiday. Still no bent bits, scratches or prop changes. It is the smoothest Quad I have ever flown. I think that is related to the parts all being selected for the combination and in that sense matched. My 2.2a batteries go better than 8 minutes but that is my limit and it is determined by the countdown timer.
I still use a spirit level to select the calibration point and I still do a hover hold check in the first thirty seconds of the flight. But my spirit level is now sitting on the top of the canopy where it is about as pretty as a Bazooka but I have never had the flight controller fail to get a GPS lock since I took the levelling seriously.
I have also marked my regular launch point with a handful of flour. (bio-.
degradeable flour from cheap stores everywhere).
A very good friend who was very critical of my decision to buy this machine recently bought a very much more expensive version (controller only). He is very pleased with it and it does have a huge range of flashy options BUT !!! he tells me that it only does RTH after it has gone to fail safe mode. I am not sure that is absolutely true because he has only had it a few days and it is amazing what you can discover from experience.:)
Can anyone tell me the size of the space for the receiver - I am thinking of getting the BNF version so need to know which Spektrum /Orange receiver will fit (7 or 8 channel)
Thanks to anyone that can help - great thread that has been really useful
A rough answer, ....
....... I am still far from a clean workbench and do not want to take mine to bits here to measure it. I am almost certain that the Helipal spare parts list will give you those dimensions. It is not a tiny receiver like my orange (42x22x13mm) or HK (???mm). It is what I would call mid size but might be a bit slimmer than the TGY-9X (50x35x15mm)
In my mind there is a curious question about the side effects of FIXID. There is a theory that when you run FIXID it auto loads the latest updates as were available when the TX left the factory. If that is true (and I'm not sure) you may end up with less than optimum functions. But that thought would not stop me doing the experiment. Best of luck.:D
I agree, it's a nice unit. It's my first and I should have started out on a much smaller easier thing to play with.
I do have a question for you. How do you setup the hover and return home switches on the devo 7? Any help would be appreciated.
My Walkera has now averaged 1.5 flights per day since Jan 17, 2013. I have had no crashes, which did damage. I don't think you will find an easier Quad to fly, once you get past the instruction sheet !
I have used the Devo 7 with the switches exactly as shown in the manual. The Hover Hold Function and the Return to Home function are allocated to the same, three position switch; which is left of the roll, dual rate switch. The Intelligent Orientation switch is at the top right hand front position.
While getting used to the system, I advise fitting some sort of inhibitor which prevents you from accidentally hitting that I.O.C. switch. (I used Blu Tak, a sort of silicone putty which can be removed easily, if needed) I also advise fitting a short length of tube (fuel tube works well) to extend the Hover hold and Return to Home switch. You need to be able to find this switch without taking your eyes off the Quad. You also need to practise only moving it to the Hover Hold position.
So that is the mechanical setup of the transmitter. Now to the GPS functions. You need to be sure on every flight that they are working as you can never be sure when you will need them. In my case, in the first month, they worked less than 20% of the time.
Test your QRX 350 like this. Use a spirit level to find a perfectly flat launch area. I had to make mine with a perfectly flat square board and two spirit levels. One on one of the North-South edges of the board and the other on one of the the East-West edges. My board is 500mm square. When your Quad is powered-up (battery connected) on this level surface it should lift off absolutely vertically IN NIL WIND). For GPS to work as a flight control, the information from the satellites has to align (roughly) with the calibration alignment of the flight controller. When the difference between the two is too great, the flight controller cannot "get a fix". So you really need to be careful at first.
It took me a while to work this out. It is not described in the instructions. If the model in nil wind always lifts off perfectly vertical, it is "level" and in my experience it never fails to hover hold after the right hand LED starts flashing. I got sick of carrying the launch board around and fitted a spirit level to the top of the canopy. This is not quite as reliable but if you are careful it will work.
Now what if, as in my case, the model never lifted vertically from a flat surface in nil wind ? It always lifted off backwards and to the left. I discovered that the flight controller was not aligned with the feet. As soon as I added 6mm pads to the two back legs I cured the backwards problem but I had to add another 2mm to the rear left leg to get it truly vertical on the left right axis. Ever since then I have never failed to get a perfect "Hover Hold" after a launch from a flat surface.
But there is one other little oddity. The trim mechanisms. Until you think about it you may not notice that the trims can be a long way off centre and your eyes can't see the offset. If you practice, you will hear that the trim makes a loud beep and pauses, when it hits dead centre on its way back from an off centre setting. This needs to be checked especially when you are testing for vertical lift. In general I never use any trim with my QRX. If it is not flying straight, something is wrong.
Finally. Until you are really used to it, only practice one GPS function at a time. I started with hover hold and my pre flight checks are not complete until I have seen it lock in. During Hover hold you can adjust the altitude with small throttle variations. You can also move it with roll and pitch but mine does not return precisely to the original spot when I let go the controls. I have not yet tried changing the yaw during Hover Hold.
I have five QRX 350 videos on Youtube. The one entitled Walkera Hover Hold GPS covers most of what I have set out here.
LAST ADVICE. I do a full calibration with the fitting of every recharged battery. It only takes a minute. Until you consistently get a hover hold lock, at the start of each session, do not attempt any of the other GPS functions. Also, if the IOC switch is accidentally engaged, you will get mysterious crashes if you attempt to apply yaw.
You have got a great little flier. It needs a bit of thought to start with but it will become second nature and you will love it.:D
Yaw Input during Hover Hold.
I tried it tonight. After locking the hover hold at two metres in light winds, I applied yaw control. It bucked a bit but settled down on its new axis but about two metres from its original position. Almost as if it had released its grip on the GPS position while I was applying the control input. I made a series of similar adjustments and the same thing happened each time. But it started to look as if it was getting cranky and I gave up the experiment. It was only two metres up and the light was fading.
I have very little interest in this sort of stunt. I only want the GPS to work as a parachute. It gives me the chance to sort out problems which might otherwise end in a crash. It performs that role perfectly. Anything more than that is only of academic interest to me. :D
Walkera and FPV
I am working on a new Walkera QRX 350 video, covering FPV applications. In the process I have discovered some aspects of GPS control, which I had not really understood. As you read this, please note that my cyclic controls have no trim bias on them.
Once you go to the hover hold mode, the aircraft is not in any way restricted to that position or height. In good conditions you should feel free to fly away from that position using all controls. At first it may feel a little weird.
For me that was due to the aircraft bucking when roll and pitch controls became centred and the Flight controller thought that I wanted to establish a new hover hold location. (eg: If you are flying forward fast when you re-centre the sticks, the quad will overfly the marked point and the autopilot will be working hard to get back to it.) As I have gained experience I tend to hold a tiny, and constant, amount of mainstick forward, until I want to turn to a new heading.
This is a really useful function for FPV learners as it creates some safe time at your first turnpoint, while you take a deep breath and line up (with yaw control) for your next turnpoint.
I should stress that FPV does present special challenges and that pilots who have not crashed while flying Line of Sight for months, may find that their crash per outing ratio soars on early trials.
That's where this GPS function is really very useful.
How about bringing us up-to-date on the type of GPS (manufacture name and issue version), for all the types of control boards (KK2, NAZA, ect.) and the FPV systems (camera, goggles, stand-alone ground based or TX mounted monitor) systems your'e using on the Walkera.....????
There are a few newbies here who have now jumped into this arena...I'm sure you can be of assistance......;)
Well Pizzano, I am not that keen ....
.... but here goes.:D
My advice is based on one question. Do you fly these things so you can see them fly or do you fly them so you can watch the world go by?
I find that when I fly FPV I am really stressed (age 71):D and the view of the local park from the air is not all that special. Worse, I have at least twice as many crashes. And all the red hot FPV guys round here are worse but their crashes are more spectacular.
All that said the QRX 350 is a really good way to start. I have two flight cam systems. Both 400mw 5.8 gig transmitters. One system has a Sony Board Cam from HK; the other is a Carbon bird from Multiwii Copter. The Sony was cheaper but has needed more setting up. I have a Cyclops Breeze OSD from Ebay and I love it. Worth every cent but not essential with GPS.
On the ground I have an ebay 7 inch screen in a shade tunnel standing on a braced fisshing rod base. It is getting the pictures from an SD card recorder from HK (really good idea) and that is being fed by my Carbonbird receiver from Multiwii Copter, which is at the top end of the fishing rod pole.
All this was done as cheaply as possible. And it works really well. Total cost about $400 Aud.
Now comes the hard part. Getting your head round the flying. If you can fly a fixed wing model reliably my advice is start with that. I am using a 40 year old Carl Goldberg Gentle Lady, with a small brushless, running a 7 inch prop mounted on a pylon above the leading edge. The motor is running on 2 cells of lipo, and the OSD, TX and cam are running on 3 cells 800mah.
I started with a quad but it got too depressing. It's a long story but for a beginner the Quad has the disadvantage of having the potential to fly backwards and it loses height much too fast.
Having said that, my first attempts did not have GPS. That adds a heap of safety (when it works). Mine does, NOW !!! It took some working out. The QRX 350 is a tad too sporty for my tastes but it sure does work once you get used to real calibration. I like the idea of taking the guts out and building a wooden frame scratchy with 450mm diagonal centres. That tames things down a heap. I wont do that just yet but it is a really simple job and the Walkera system is beautifully smooth and reliable.
The only other system I have seen close up and working at all is a DJI. Very nice but no better and at least $100 more. I like the idea of Goggles and might have gone that way if I had started with a fixed wing model. For beginners it is not advisable to take off or land FPV. With a screen it is so easy to step away from the tunnel, while both thumbs are looking after the bird.
My last thought. It is so much easier and safer, when you have an assistant who is acting as a spotter and telling you sensible things. You need to sort that out because one word of rubbish and you will hate them forever.:D
Is there any way to track the Walkera`s movement ?
Keeping track of your Quad
Thanks for the question. I'm not sure where you are coming from. But the subject is interesting. The Walkera as sold has nothing on board which electronically makes it easy to track.
In a bigger airframe I would fit an on screen display (OSD). That provides a range of information which makes location of a lost model easier and sometimes an indicator showing the short path back to base. These devices are very small but they depend on a GPS aerial which is not always light. I have two which I think are excellent. The Cyclops Breeze and the Minim. The Minim is tiny (and cheap) but it takes a little more setting up. I once lost a model in a tree at a range of 400 metres and could not locate it. I took the flight recorder ($50) home and studied the last seconds of flight and noted the co-ordinates. Back at the field I walked straight to the tree. Great !!!! :D
But in flight and with your eyes on the screen it is not so easy. The best advice I can give is to plan and mark your training FPV flights on the ground. I have my launch pad and three one litre, plastic bowls (with lids). My FPV base is 10 metres away from the launch pad and the bowls (white) are set out at 25 metre spacings (usually a square plan) with the launch base as start and finish. These are all well clear of major obstacles. It becomes much harder, in early FPV flights, to get lost or disoriented when you fly a small course like this. I find that 4 metres is the ideal height for this sort of training. All this is shown in my Youtube video at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MVNPqhd7oCk
Finally, the biggest difficulties in early FPV are height and wind. The camera does not create a clear sense of height variation until you are very low. I often fly line of sight in 15 knot winds and have learned subconsciously how to counter it. In early flights of FPV my sub conscious was useless. Do your self a favour. Do your training in light winds (under 2 km's) and before your FPV flight fly the course and note the drift on each leg. A tail wind is a special problem but cross winds are harder to control at first.
Still no crashes !!!
I have been wrestling with way points for GPS. It has been tough and while I think I am winning I have just seen a thread on DIY Drones based on the QRX Pro, currently selling for $309 (PNF). And it shows how the Devo 7 transmitter can be configured to do the six functions which are applied by the APM Multi waypoints programme Mission Planner. Now that is a fantastic idea from my point of view. I still have not seen an economy Quad that flies better than the Walkera.
I do not know for sure if I will actually do this because my other experiments are still cooking but I could be very tempted to follow this idea. It is not absolutely simple but I think most of us will be able to get our heads around it.
"I still have not seen an economy Quad that flies better than the Walkera."
I'm not sure what you've put your hands on or what constitutes "economy".........and I'm sure that's just a "personal" opinion......but for just a few more $$$.....and far less headaches, frustration. customer service issues, NO firmware (beta) testing/learning curves and extreme reliablity, durability, flight performance and FPV-AP compatibility.....The Blade-Spektrum platforms are getting extremely good reviews at all of the multi rotor forums.........;)
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