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-   -   EVA build pics. Maybe they will show up!! (http://www.Wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=73449)

time bandit 03-28-2014 11:50 PM

EVA build pics. Maybe they will show up!!
 
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time bandit 03-28-2014 11:51 PM

Man I really stink when it comes to posting pics. The others didn't show up and the ones that did are not oriented correctly. :censor:

time bandit 03-29-2014 04:17 PM

Well I had my first brain fart of this build when I forgot to install the two servo guide tubes "before" attaching the rear turtle deck pieces!! The instructions clearly tell you to do that first. ::o It's going to be a real pain in the butt trying to snake those two skinny tubes through three tiny holes in the bulkheads to exit at the rear of the fuse. What a moron I am. :mad:

buzzltyr 03-29-2014 05:46 PM

You might try fishing a piece of the music wire pushrod through from the exit, and then slide the tubing over it.

Mark

time bandit 03-29-2014 05:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by buzzltyr (Post 943944)
You might try fishing a piece of the music wire pushrod through from the exit, and then slide the tubing over it.

Mark

I got them to go through but I had to cut two small squares from the side of the fuse to get hold of the tubes with some tweezers to push them through the last bulkhead. I then glued the two squares I cut out back to the fuse and all is well. I'm still ticked at myself for not paying attention to the steps in the instructions. :oops:

time bandit 03-29-2014 06:22 PM

What is a good filler for dings and such that I can apply to the balsa surfaces before I do the smooth (200 grit) sanding? It would need to be something that won't prevent the covering from sticking correct?

tobydogs 03-29-2014 08:11 PM

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tb,

first apply a damp paper towel to the dents and use your covering iron on hot to steam the dents out. after that sand with fine grit paper. lastly,fill those stubborn areas with " lite " weight drywall Spackle[you can buy a tiny container at any sears or home depot. i always use it instead of hobby balsa filler since it sands so easy. when using the Spackle,dampen the balsa a little first and apply with a credit card squeegee.let it dry overnight. stu

time bandit 03-30-2014 12:12 AM

How much sanding does it take to get the cowling to fit over the nose of the EVA sport? Seems like I'm taking too much stock off and the cowling still doesn't fit over the nose good yet. :confused:

buzzltyr 03-30-2014 03:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by time bandit (Post 943966)
How much sanding does it take to get the cowling to fit over the nose of the EVA sport? Seems like I'm taking too much stock off and the cowling still doesn't fit over the nose good yet. :confused:

It takes quite a bit of sanding. That is why the tri-stock is placed in the corners. You actually will be sanding away some of the sheet sides to get the cowl to fit properly. Just go slowly and keep test fitting the cowl.

With regards to your earlier question, I also use the lightweight spackle. I usually put a small amount in a little plastic cup, and add a drop of water at a time and mix until it is about the consistency of toothpaste. Then I squeegee it onto the balsa. Let dry and sand.

Mark

thepiper92 03-30-2014 05:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by time bandit (Post 943948)
What is a good filler for dings and such that I can apply to the balsa surfaces before I do the smooth (200 grit) sanding? It would need to be something that won't prevent the covering from sticking correct?

I wouldn't worry about very minor dings. When you cover don't iron into the dings. When you shrink the covering, it will cover over the dings. Covering shrinks to the highest area, like a boat cover. As it pulls tight, the areas that stick up will be what is visible, so it is important to sand down edges of formers that go past the stringers and such. Also, you can sand stringers to remove their square angles a bit, especially if stringers aren't close together. If you have large dings and are essentially missing pieces from the parts, then you will likely make the covering take on that shape, so use filler, or cut out a larger area, use scrap balsa and cut and sand to the shape of the area.

time bandit 03-30-2014 01:58 PM

It looks like the cowling will only fit up to the front of the canopy hatch. I'm not sure how you're supposed to attach it to the nose of the fuse. The instructions say to tape it in place!! I don't think that's the way to go. Does anyone have a good close up side view of their EVA with the cowling in place? It would help me understand how much more, if any, of the stock I still need to remove. I would also like to know how you're attaching the cowling to your EVA. Thanks for all the help guys. :)

Stevephoon 03-30-2014 02:48 PM

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I needed to remove a fair amount. I don't remember exactly, but I do remember playing with it for a fair amount of time. One of my issues was my motor ended up just a touch short and instead of using spacers, I pushed the cowl back some. Tape will work, but it can also cause you to pull up the covering it's stuck to if you ever need to remove it. So I fell back to some small screws. So mine just fits over the front firewall on the top and then extends past everywhere else.


Steve

time bandit 03-30-2014 03:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stevephoon (Post 944021)
I needed to remove a fair amount. I don't remember exactly, but I do remember playing with it for a fair amount of time. One of my issues was my motor ended up just a touch short and instead of using spacers, I pushed the cowl back some. Tape will work, but it can also cause you to pull up the covering it's stuck to if you ever need to remove it. So I fell back to some small screws. So mine just fits over the front firewall on the top and then extends past everywhere else.


Steve

Thanks a lot for that picture!! I just wasn't sure if I had rounded to much from the underside of the nose. I may have but I don't think I've done any damage. I will post some more pics when I can figure out how to get them to show up in the right position.

time bandit 03-30-2014 03:22 PM

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time bandit 03-30-2014 03:26 PM

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thepiper92 03-30-2014 03:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by time bandit (Post 944018)
It looks like the cowling will only fit up to the front of the canopy hatch. I'm not sure how you're supposed to attach it to the nose of the fuse. The instructions say to tape it in place!! I don't think that's the way to go. Does anyone have a good close up side view of their EVA with the cowling in place? It would help me understand how much more, if any, of the stock I still need to remove. I would also like to know how you're attaching the cowling to your EVA. Thanks for all the help guys. :)

Magnets are an option for cowling. You can make something to glue into the cowling that has magnets in it. Use two or three magnets. On the firewall install magnets with the same spacing. You can probably install magnets in the area that Stevephoon installed screws, depending on how much balsa wood there is there. I'd stay away from tape. On thing I'm going to try is weak Velcro, used for holding cables in a bundle. It's very thin, which Is good

time bandit 03-30-2014 04:06 PM

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time bandit 03-30-2014 04:09 PM

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time bandit 03-30-2014 04:11 PM

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time bandit 03-30-2014 04:17 PM

Look at the above pics and see if you think that I have sanded enough or not for the cowling to fit.

thepiper92 03-30-2014 04:36 PM

Unless you want to use tape you have to sand more. Also if the cowl isn't on far you have to bring motor out more and that could make you nose heavy

time bandit 03-30-2014 04:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thepiper92 (Post 944032)
Unless you want to use tape you have to sand more. Also if the cowl isn't on far you have to bring motor out more and that could make you nose heavy

How far back should it go? I don't see the cowling fitting past the front of the canopy hatch. That's something I wish the instructions would have made a little more clear.

Stevephoon 03-30-2014 05:12 PM

3 Attachment(s)
To me it looks like you still need just a little more, but it depends on where the motor/prop ends up. Mine pulls back over the fuselage a good 1/4 in or so. You just really need it to slide over just enough to catch.

I've attached a couple more picts for reference.

Steve

gramps2361 03-30-2014 05:42 PM

Yes you really need to mount the motor to find the position for the cowling. Working on one today myself that is mounting a motor to trial fit the cowling. You will also have to leave room for the covering material. I would run a strip of blue tape around where the cowl will fit after you get it close. Then try fitting the cowling over the tape to see if you need to sand a little more off. Nothing worse than getting the covering job done and finding out that little difference makes it to tight for the cowling.

Steve love the covering job simple but a touch of class.

thepiper92 03-30-2014 06:38 PM

Best bet is to install motor and stick (I'm
Guessing its a stick mount), and put it in fuse where instructions say to. You can glue it in as a stick mount will be easier when things aren't covered usually anyway. Install motor and collet and slip cowling over, assuming you cut the hole in it. Put prop on and see if it goes on. You don't want to make the motor assembly to clear through the cowl hole, but make the cowl clear the assembly. The cowl will do very little to cg, but bringing mount more forward will lot, as well as affecting prop air over wings possibly.


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