The radio gear is catered for nicely ... a tray is already fitted in fuselage bay and I tried to dislodge by hand - but seems well glued in. It's cut to fit 9gr servos and that's what I did ... a metal gear Corona 929 for elevator and a 9gr plastic for rudder. (I was going to use a Metal gear as well - but I broke the tab on the servo case !! ... so had to use one of the others I have in the spares box ... )
Inside fuselage - I am a great believer in a more permanent and fixed style of servo connection - z bends. Leaving trim adjustment to the external link clevis.
The control rods in this model are well supported by running inside mounted tubes. There's no need to cut covering at rear of fuselage - which I did !! as you run control rods in the tubes and they pierce / exit through the covering ...
The rods lie to a natural offset in the bay and therefore servos should be fixed taking this into account, otherwise you will have binding ...
Trick which works nicely with these rods, they are black coated piano wire ... when positioned - a knife blade scraped across will mark through the black to the silver wire under ... giving you the 'bend' point for the z bend ...
I fitted the rods to 1 hole in from end on servos and surface horns .. knowing that this would be too much against manual advised movements. Idea to then use EPA to bring movement back to recc'd limits. I always then have extra if I want by upping EPA and not having to play with the model links ... using such holes as well kept rods as bind free as possible.
The battery bay is ahead of the U/C and has a nice pre-made door but no fastening for it. It has a front tab and needs a fixing at rear ... more on that later.
In the box you are provided with large foam pad ... plus a velcro battery strap ! Now that's a nice addition. But how to fix ? I decided to tie-wrap it to the frame inside fuselage ...
The battery space is cavernous to say the least and will cater for a larger pack as long as you do not increase length from a standard 2100 3S.
I then had to decide where to mount the ESC ... for now I have taped it to the side of battery compartment as the motor leads are quite short ... later I wil probably mount the ESC the other side of battery tray inside fuselage.
Rx ... you have so much space to choose for this I was stumped as to where ... in the end I did similar to ESFC and taped it temporarily to fuselage side where I can get to plug in Ch 1 and 6 - the ailerons.
The overall radio fitment was easy and only took a couple of hours to sort.
Then it was decals ............. and mount cowl properly ...
As to LiPo bay door .... in the pack is a system that uses a nut and bolt. Not exactly field friendly ... so I modified by using one part and a servo screw ... to create a locking tab.
Now she waits motor .... on this I made a mistake .. I ordered a Turnigy 2836 - but missed that it is a rear mount motor. This model has a framed motor mount that needs the motor inserted in behind firewall, shaft to go through a hole and mount screws either side to fix ... a front mount motor. So a new order today for a 2836 1000kV motor with front mount and 300W rated ... on a 3S pack.
Manual advises a 180W 2830 .. but talking to a guy who flew one on stock RTF 2830 as manual states - he reckoned it was a nice cruising sport flyer - but lacked oooomph to get into real aerobatics. i hope that the 300W motor will supply sufficient..... the model as per manual is 770grams AUW to fly ... giving me 177W / lb ...
Some will notice that Spats are still not fitted ..... I still have to repair the one I broke and then drill out the slot ... they will be fitted before maiden !!
Now I have to wait postman .................