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Old 10-01-2012, 02:51 AM   #25
Stevephoon
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Originally Posted by Don Stackhouse View Post
The only trick on the splicing is you have to angle the scarf cut just right to go above the hole for the wing hold-down dowel. Of course if you're planning to use the bolt-on option instead of rubber bands, it's not an issue.
Don, this confused me... I was not planning on the cut being this far back. I was thinking of two slightly offset cuts would be the way to go. If I'm inserting a 1.5 in section, I'd cut one side .75 in in front of the other. This wat none of the cuts would line up. So you are suggestion that the cut should be farther back so that F2 is glued over the cut? Is that correct? I've drawn a couple of lines on mine, I was originally thinking even more forward than here. Do you have a picture you can share with the suggested spot to cut indicated?

Originally Posted by bluzjamer View Post
Steve you could always just hang the motor out front instead of lengthening the fuse.
....
bluzjamer, welcome to the build. That was was my initial thought as well, but I'n not very good at making cowels and I'd end up covering up the cool air intakes. (Small cutouts in the balsa in the sides of the nose) I thought this way would be easier for me.

Originally Posted by k8zfj View Post
Started my build last Monday , by first slicing the instructions into square pages for easier reference. Next the ribs got labeled & stacked, along with organizing the similar pcs of wood parts, then off to slicing off front of fuse doublers to extend the nose.
AEAJR has rite approach re. Building, soon I need to take that route too
Hi k8zfj. I too have cut the plans apart, but that's still the extent of my progress. How/where did you cut the doublers and how long are you extending your nose?

I can get started as soon as my son returns my glue and clamps. Something he promised to do today, but nope... I also pulled out my 1/8 in ply sheet (I only have one) and it's now warped. I put it under a bunch of weights to try and flatten it out.

Steve


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