Originally Posted by Scirocco14
Thanks for the ideas, Dereck.
Your Four Star 40 had a full cowl? Was it an ARF or did you build it with a cowl? I kind of like the looks of the cheeks on the 4*Stars.
I built mine back in 1998 - not even sure if Sig BARF'ed (Bought Almost Ready to Fix - Olde English FLA [four letter abbreviation] ) back then.
I electrocuted the kit for a magazine article on converting it to quiet power. Even though the motor was the hottest electric drivetrain on the US market back then - a geared MaxCim 'inrunner' with five extra thin wires to control the motor speed - I built a full cowling around the motor, based on the remains of the liteply fuselage sides ahead of the firewall and my balsa scrap box. The aim was to firstly make it look a little different and possibly have less front end drag, secondly to create directed cooling into the cowl and around the motor.
The original cheeks were the easy way around fitting a wide range of slimers, plus they're much easier to both 'kit' and 'build' than a cowling - moulded cowls around slimers are a lot of fun when it comes to cutting out holes for cylinders, silencers and so on. As I'm sure you know, coming from oily models
Save you wondering - I flew oily RC for a fair while before going all electric. Spousal Unit's dislike of how I smelled after flying sessions had a large part in my switching over...
Why Sig went with that bottom battery hatch on the 20E escapes me, other than it's cheap. Nearly every electrocuted 4* I've seen or heard of has had some kind of top hatch, as have the BTE Venture 60 electrics. It's not only ease of battery swapping with a top hatch, their forward underside hatch tends to make the model nose-heavy and also demands you stick with one size of battery that fits in there. If you used different sizes/weights of pack, its forward location could mess up the model's CG somewhat
We can safely ignore a clubmate of mine some time back who built a Four Star 40 completely stock, lashed a geared Astro 25 cobalt into the glow engine mount with a hose clamp and whose 'battery hatch' involved taking the wing off, stuffing a foam wrapped 16 cell nicad battery into the hole where the fuel tank went through and bolting the wing back on... It flew pretty good too.
If you want to revert to the historical 4* side cheeks, you'll need to mount the motor further forwards to maintain the traditional shape - outrunners are shorter than slimey lumps.
Keep on gluing