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#1 | ||
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Super Contributor
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: So. Calif
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This Question comes up a Lot, Soooo I am going to post some pictures, to give modelers some Ideas, I know I have had to learn the different ways to mount a Outrunner, so it will fit a certain Plane, due to size of the cowel, firewall placement, etc, so here are some pics, and Please feel free to add your own pics of a motor install, so it might help others with their build, Take care, Chelliehttp://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...unt-for/Detail ![]() ![]() |
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Do not Judge, or you too will be Judged. For in the same way you Judge others, you will be Judged, and with the same measure you use, it will be measured to You.
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#2 | ||
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Super Contributor
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: So. Calif
Posts: 15,888
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Do not Judge, or you too will be Judged. For in the same way you Judge others, you will be Judged, and with the same measure you use, it will be measured to You.
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#3 | ||
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#4 | ||
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Super Contributor
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Originally Posted by netjunky
someone just made up there own prop adapter to reduce the hole in the prop to 3mm, it does not look very good to me, dont try that
you can buy a 3mm prop collet adapter to fit a prop with a larger hole than 3mm, also, its best to cut the motor shaft back as far as you can, but still leave enough room for the collet adapter to slide on, reason being, is that the shorter the motor shaft is, the less chance of bending the motor shaft in a hard landing, I like to use the prop savers with the bell motors, it allows you to use a prop with a 3mm hole in it, i have found, that if you use a prop saver, and push it all the way back to the bell, and cut the motor shaft, so that 1/8" of the motor shaft sticks out of the prop saver, that you can use a collet type prop adapter with the shaft at that length, also, when using a prop saver, grind 2 flat areas on the motor shaft, where the 2 screws touch the motor shaft at, that will keep the prop saver from wanting to spin on the motor shaft, also use some blue lock tight on the 2 screws, hope that helps, Chelliehttp://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...r-3.0mm/Detail http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...r-3.0mm/Detail |
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Do not Judge, or you too will be Judged. For in the same way you Judge others, you will be Judged, and with the same measure you use, it will be measured to You.
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#5 | ||
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Member
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thanks
for the extra parts suplier and for the advice which is better the prop adaptor or the prop saver?? and does the motor stop so its horizontal, or do you have to do something for that? im building a plane with no landing gear |
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#6 | ||
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Super Contributor
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: So. Calif
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The prop saver is best with no landing gear, and with up to about 150 WATTS, that is most profile park flyers foamies, the prop gives on landing and will move out of its own way, with out breaking the prop, the collet type prop adapter is better for high performance and aerobatic flying, its best at over 200WATTS and for high RPM, on the prop saver adapter, sometimes you need to use a larger drill bit on one side of the prop to counter sink it a little, so the prop sits flush on the prop saver,all of my small park flyers have prop savers on them, they work great, Take care and have fun, Chellie
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Do not Judge, or you too will be Judged. For in the same way you Judge others, you will be Judged, and with the same measure you use, it will be measured to You.
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#7 | ||
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Super Contributor
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: So. Calif
Posts: 15,888
Thanked 1,781 Times in 1,704 Posts
Club: Chino Renegades RC Flying Club
iTrader: (4)
Friends: (281)
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Do not Judge, or you too will be Judged. For in the same way you Judge others, you will be Judged, and with the same measure you use, it will be measured to You.
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#8 | ||
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Super Contributor
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: So. Calif
Posts: 15,888
Thanked 1,781 Times in 1,704 Posts
Club: Chino Renegades RC Flying Club
iTrader: (4)
Friends: (281)
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Do not Judge, or you too will be Judged. For in the same way you Judge others, you will be Judged, and with the same measure you use, it will be measured to You.
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#9 | ||
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Super Contributor
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: So. Calif
Posts: 15,888
Thanked 1,781 Times in 1,704 Posts
Club: Chino Renegades RC Flying Club
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I hope this gives the new pilot / builder a little more of an Idea whats available to them, as far as motor mounts go, also some of these mounts will fit inrunners too
Take care, Chellie
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Do not Judge, or you too will be Judged. For in the same way you Judge others, you will be Judged, and with the same measure you use, it will be measured to You.
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#10 | ||
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GravesRC enabler d:)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: 3D World, Florida
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Here's some more of my motor mounts and a lovely work of laser art from Germany for the EF Yak 47":
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GoBrushless.com/3DHobbyshop.com
Shulman Aviation.com Fusion-Pack.com /blakehilson.com http://www.youtube.com/results?searc...rch_type=&aq=f |
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#11 | ||
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Trainee Ground Teaser
Join Date: Aug 2008
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Originally Posted by CHELLIE
Hi Chellie,
Thats was very helpful, I had no idea there were so many variations available. Cheers, Drew |
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#12 | ||
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Super Contributor
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: So. Calif
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Thank you EDFrules
for posting some great motor mount Ideas, it will certainly help others with their builds, Take care, ChellieHi Drew I struggled to learn how to mount some of my motors, the out runners were the most difficult, it took me a while to learn the different ways a outrunner motor could be mounted, and I still dont know them all this thread with the help from others, will help us all to gain more knowlage, Take care, Chellie
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Do not Judge, or you too will be Judged. For in the same way you Judge others, you will be Judged, and with the same measure you use, it will be measured to You.
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#13 | ||
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GravesRC enabler d:)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: 3D World, Florida
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You bet Chellie. With mounting motors, there's always more than one way to skin the proverbial cat. Given the popularity of outrunners, there are many methods to make sure your motor stays where it should. I was unsure how to hang 700 watts on a foamie but some ply and epoxy kept it where it was supposed to be. Imperical testing doesn't always work but that's how we learn. Good luck and keep 'em flyin'!
Regards, Jason [quote=CHELLIE;482686]Thank you EDFrules for posting some great motor mount Ideas, it will certainly help others with their builds, Take care, Chellie
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GoBrushless.com/3DHobbyshop.com
Shulman Aviation.com Fusion-Pack.com /blakehilson.com http://www.youtube.com/results?searc...rch_type=&aq=f |
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#14 | ||
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Trainee Ground Teaser
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: North West - UK
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Originally Posted by EDFrules
Thanks Jason, (forgot to say before -
), there certainly are plenty of ways...Just need to find the right one for the right project. |
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#15 | ||
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Still Learning
Join Date: Sep 2006
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Here's a couple.
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#16 | ||
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Super Contributor
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: So. Calif
Posts: 15,888
Thanked 1,781 Times in 1,704 Posts
Club: Chino Renegades RC Flying Club
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Do not Judge, or you too will be Judged. For in the same way you Judge others, you will be Judged, and with the same measure you use, it will be measured to You.
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#17 | ||
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GravesRC enabler d:)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: 3D World, Florida
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Yeah that's some beauty stuff-eh? My carbon mounts don't have that finished look(yet).
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GoBrushless.com/3DHobbyshop.com
Shulman Aviation.com Fusion-Pack.com /blakehilson.com http://www.youtube.com/results?searc...rch_type=&aq=f |
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#18 | ||
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Super Contributor
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: So. Calif
Posts: 15,888
Thanked 1,781 Times in 1,704 Posts
Club: Chino Renegades RC Flying Club
iTrader: (4)
Friends: (281)
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Do not Judge, or you too will be Judged. For in the same way you Judge others, you will be Judged, and with the same measure you use, it will be measured to You.
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#19 | ||
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GravesRC enabler d:)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: 3D World, Florida
Posts: 1,086
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Thanks Chellie. That's my Bipe-X design. 1st 3D bipe design and wanted to lighten it up as much as possible since bipes aren't known to be the lightest. Milled out all control surfaces too. Have done 2 more versions. V1.2 seems to be the best overall at 3D/pattern. I've got a company evaluating an airframe now and hopefully in the near future we should see it on the market. I'll let everyone else make the next best Ultimate and Pitts for 3D. I decided not to try and work out the bad tendencies of most bipes and start from a blank sheet of paper. Since it seems to fly well I'm working on a full fuse/wing 42" version now and will scale up to 80" if that performs well. Going to be fun. Didn't really like bipes but this has changed my mind. Also working on an AMA pattern bipe for a friend. No one makes a bipe for the lower classes(non FAI/F3A) manuevers. So this is an attempt to make a more point and shoot bipe. Here's the Bipe-X thread:
http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31764 Here's a couple of vids, one of each version: Jason |
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GoBrushless.com/3DHobbyshop.com
Shulman Aviation.com Fusion-Pack.com /blakehilson.com http://www.youtube.com/results?searc...rch_type=&aq=f |
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#20 | ||
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Super Contributor
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Jason, AWESOME videos friend. Where in Florida are you? I'm from Jacksonville.
Mike |
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The best teacher in the world is experience...now go fly something already
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#21 | ||
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GravesRC enabler d:)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: 3D World, Florida
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Thanks Mike. That's my friend Blake Hilson on the sticks. He knows how to get the most out of an airframe for sure. We live in Clermont right outside of the Disney area. That's his backyard with the lake we fly over a lot. He also flies @RCACF field in Apopka(Orlando area). Here's a couple more vids of V1.0 if you liked the others:
In keeping with the context of this thread, they all use a simple motor mount setup. Just 1/8" ply(or 1/16" carbon plate) CA'd to depron(with doublers @ firewall) and some balsa corner stock on the 4 quadrants. Then just drill thru ply and corner stock and mount motor with some RTL socket head fasteners. Lite and haven't had one fail yet and you can see the planes get wailed on.
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GoBrushless.com/3DHobbyshop.com
Shulman Aviation.com Fusion-Pack.com /blakehilson.com http://www.youtube.com/results?searc...rch_type=&aq=f |
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#22 | ||
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Super Contributor
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Excellent videos friend! I like your little collection there. I think those things are so sweet.
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The best teacher in the world is experience...now go fly something already
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#23 | ||
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GravesRC enabler d:)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: 3D World, Florida
Posts: 1,086
Thanked 43 Times in 42 Posts
Club: I wouldn't be part of any club that would have me!
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That's just a few of them. Got some more full fuse versions and some smaller ones too. The Cliks do their precision/3D thing too. That's what started my obsession with this type plane in the first place(at least that's what my wife calls it). Should be making some 6-12s sized full up versions this year=going to be big fun! Obviously have to have some serious motor mounts for that kind of power. No lite ply!
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GoBrushless.com/3DHobbyshop.com
Shulman Aviation.com Fusion-Pack.com /blakehilson.com http://www.youtube.com/results?searc...rch_type=&aq=f |
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#24 | ||
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All I Need are Elevons
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Location: Central Florida
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I really wanted to keep my Funder & Lightning as "clean" as possible as far as construction. I'm using carbon arrow shafts for the booms and decided I'd use the same material to make my motor mount anchor. I really wanted to stay away from using plywood or some boxy looking motor mount. What I came up with is strong, light and very minimalistic. I should have taken a picture of the mount before I installed it on the plane. I'll photograph the next one Just picture a piece of 5/16" dia. CF tubing running from the back of the motor mount, through the nose, all the way to where the slot for the wing is in the fusilage. It's held in place with Gorilla Glue. It's STRONG. I considered making carbon fiber reinforcement panels for the sides of the nose but they aren't needed at all.
The mount itself is made from carbon fiber and silver G10, the materal used on some Heli frames and Rock Crawers. Rock Crawer fans will notice the Axial green aluminum standoff material, I used for the spacers. I wanted air to be able to THROUGH the motor as intended and I needed to space the mount away from the collar on the rear of the motor. In doing that I kept the overall length as short as possible. On the next one, I'll make a 3 screw version to save weight, I'm sure it will be strong enough and lighter with one less screw and less material. Now I have to make a nice prop nut/spinner! |
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#25 | ||
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GravesRC enabler d:)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: 3D World, Florida
Posts: 1,086
Thanked 43 Times in 42 Posts
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Nice looking mount there.
Thanks for reminding me of my other indoor Clik mount. Simple as it gets-a piece of carbon arrow shaft for a MicroDan 2003 F3A motor. Motor gets friction fit in nice and tight and with a couple of drops of CA it's there to stay. No hardware needed. Perfect for those less than 4oz. foamies. Where are you located in Central Fl? I'm in Clermont.
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GoBrushless.com/3DHobbyshop.com
Shulman Aviation.com Fusion-Pack.com /blakehilson.com http://www.youtube.com/results?searc...rch_type=&aq=f |
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| motor , mount , outrunner |
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