Programming ESC's

[daddyrabbit1954]

When programming an ESC, is it best to use a lower S count battery? I read somewhere that if one plugs their 6S battery into the ESC when programming, the ESC will overheat. I have a couple of new 125 AMP ESC's that are not supported by a programming card, so I must program them using my transmitter - this could take a while I am guessing, and I don't want to fry the ESC's.

When programming the cell count, if I am using say a 3S battery for programming, but will ultimately use 6S to actually fly the model, I assume I should program it for 6S - is this correct?

Thanks for any expert insight.

[FlyWheel]

I haven't heard of this, but it shouldnt, the ESC regulates amperage flow it doesn't draw amps, except for the miniscule amount it may need to do it's own job. The motor and the RX draws the amps. If they aren't doing anything then the amps simply won't be drawn. The battery won't force any more amps that the devices connected to them are asking for. Unless you go crazy with the voltage (translation: don't plug it into the wall socket ).

As far as what or how you should program it, I think that probably depends on the make/model of the ESC.

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[solentlife]

And usually the cell count will auto set itself when ESC detects the pack connected to it.

Sounds a bit strange ... use lower power to program than what is going to be powering model ? In my opinion if ESC cannot take the power pack intended during programming - then ESC in my view is not suitable for m,y model.

Is this something you have heard from another modeller or read somewhere ? I'm interested if it was read - so to check exactly what they say .. there might be something to learn from it ...

[daddyrabbit1954]

Originally Posted by solentlife

Is this something you have heard from another modeller or read somewhere ? I'm interested if it was read - so to check exactly what they say .. there might be something to learn from it ...

I read it in the review/discussion section on Hobby King under the Turnigy Plush 80 ESC item. There are a ton of review discussions to read through, so it may be a pain in the arse to find it again.

Even as a neophite electric hobbyist, it sounded strange to me, too.

By the way - I ended up ordering a pair of those ESC's to use with a pair of Cyclone Power 2800kv motors I'm using in the Mig-29 I'm building. I also bought the programming card. Everything went fine in the programming phase, but once I briefly ran up the motors to test the system, one of the ESC's fried.

[FlyWheel]

Your best bet is to figure the maximum amp draw you expect to see in actual use, then get an ESC that can handle 1 1/2 times that. This gives you a safety net.

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[solentlife]

Most motors will give a recc'd ESC to use with it ... and I regard that as a minimum rated ESC. Next rated step up is my usual solution.

Problem with many online adverts I read for ESC's ... same with Lipo's ... the ratings are often overquoted ... it's not unusual for an ESC to say eg 30A ... then when you check deeper into it's specs it's actually a 25A continuous max or lower.

[daddyrabbit1954]

Originally Posted by solentlife

Most motors will give a recc'd ESC to use with it ... and I regard that as a minimum rated ESC. Next rated step up is my usual solution.

Problem with many online adverts I read for ESC's ... same with Lipo's ... the ratings are often overquoted ... it's not unusual for an ESC to say eg 30A ... then when you check deeper into it's specs it's actually a 25A continuous max or lower.

Subsequently, I have returned the Plush 80 ESC for a warranty exchange, but also purchased a new pair of 125 AMP ESC's. The Cyclone Power 2800kv motors carry an advertised rating of 69 AMP draw at a maximum 1500 watts on 6s Lipo's, which is what I am running. As a newbie, it's hard to know what is a manufacturing fault/fluke or what is actually underspec for a particular application. Several modelers told me that the Plush 80 ESC's would be plenty for the CP motors, but like I said, it's hard to sort out fact from fiction. This electric power situation is a little daunting to learn.

[solentlife]

69A on a 6S pack would give 1531 watts nominal ... that is not max from a pack like that... with losses ... higher voltage from charged state ... the ESC would be subjected to significantly higher.

I'll let others expand on it that know far more than I ... but that's my take on the situation ...

[daddyrabbit1954]

Originally Posted by solentlife

69A on a 6S pack would give 1531 watts nominal ... that is not max from a pack like that... with losses ... higher voltage from charged state ... the ESC would be subjected to significantly higher.

I'll let others expand on it that know far more than I ... but that's my take on the situation ...

What is the formula for calculating watts? How does the motor play into the calculation, or is it calculated on the battery pack only? I suppose that knowing the appropriate formulas and how to apply them is a big part of what I am lacking as a newbie. Also, I don't yet own any proper testing devices, so any advice what I should acquire and where to read up on the subject will be greatly appreciated.

[kyleservicetech]

Originally Posted by solentlife

Most motors will give a recc'd ESC to use with it ... and I regard that as a minimum rated ESC. Next rated step up is my usual solution.

Problem with many online adverts I read for ESC's ... same with Lipo's ... the ratings are often overquoted ... it's not unusual for an ESC to say eg 30A ... then when you check deeper into it's specs it's actually a 25A continuous max or lower.

Nice thing about the Castle Creations ESC's. I've actually run them at their rated maximum currents without problems or concerns.

But you can NEVER run them (or any ESC) at over their maximum VOLTAGE rating!