Build 2 House of Balsa AT6 Texan Micro Electric

[drummaker]

OK so I am going to start a build. This will be my second. I am building the AT6 Texan from House of Balsa.. The Micro Electric Version

I can't show you a pic of the box since I don't have it yet. It is coming today.

What I can do is attach some pics of what I am thinking of using as a covering pattern. My last model turned out kind of ugly, So I am planning ahead. It has occurred to me to just do Standard military covering.. However unlike the Cub which seems to always be the same... I have seen AT6 models with every color in the rainbow and patterns accordingly
Here are a few schemes I have come up with. They all Incorporated the same basic colors, since I ordered a selection of covering. The covering I purchased was... from Hanger 9 the parklite: creme, silver (aluminum) yellow, and Orange, and the solarfilm metalic red. I also have the most part of a roll of Yellow microlite. I hate the microlite yellow so If I decide on yellow I am thinking I will buy the parklite

so I am attaching a few drawings I have done. I have not included any of the standard military patterns. Which I may just wind up doing.

The thing is.. on my 1st model the thing I had the most trouble with was the covering. I have learned from experience, that when you push yourself.. you improve so these schemes are designed to challenge me.
here we go:

anyone who has an opinion please state it. I really hate do to stock stuff, but I am seeing that in the scale world. Standard color schemes seem to be.... Well STANDARD

[drummaker]

I have ordered the following from Hobby King (I know but their prices are amazing!

The Original plans call for a long 400 sized brushed. I wanted brushless, of course so I emailed HOB and they replied with a couple of motors which you can't get any more or at least not that I can find.. What is it with these kit builders. Anyway it was a 1480 KV 10 amp motor

so I picked this
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=34108

Hobby king recommended a7x4 prop. Of course they are stocked only at the international warehouse, so I didn't include with this build.. when I order this kind of thing I always order at least 5 so I do have some 9x4.5s and a few other sizes. I am asking for advice on this from you people because I really don't get the prop thing fully. I know this plane is supposed to be fast, and a 4 pitch doesn't seem like very steep so I am wondering. I may just get an assortment since they are cheep and I entend to stock up anyway. I also ordered a watt meter. I have 2 20c 2 cell 1,200 mha packs and 2 3 cell 1,200 mha packs. LYpo of course.

I may buy a new pack as HOB recommended 1000.

I already have a Hobbywing 30A speed controlle brushless esc left over from when I burned up my 1st cheap motor testing it with too big a prop. so I will use this unless you people think that would be a mistake. I know it is heavy but the kit called for the older style heavy battery pack so I really don't think that this will be an issue... do you?

HOB calls 4 3 micro sized servos.
I picked these
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=23594

they are the highest quality I could find with not to high a tag and I found great comments from people on a park flyer forum somewhere.


I purchased the OrangeRX 6 Ch Flight Receiver - DSM2/DSMX Compatible from Ebay since Hobby King seems to perpetually be on back order. (good sign?)


I have read great reviews on these. it is supposed to be full range, but It doesn't have a full length antenna lead so I am somewhat worried about it. I am thinking since this plane is only 38" wingspan I won't need so much range because I will not be able to see it that far out. ?

I will start the kit tonight or tomorrow... depending on my wife of course. She just ordered herself a new high quality Djembe from Wula drum. It will be in today so she will either want to play it by herself (this is usually the case since she is a pro player and I am not very good) or she will want me to drum with her... Which I will do if she wants.

More later

[pizzano]

The motor you selected:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=34108

Is rated at 40amps...the ESC you have is rated at 30amps........the common practice is to use an ESC rated equal to or more than the motor spec's.....particularly if you intend to use larger diameter props that provide more thrust......

On a 38" wing span (weight unknown) 9g servos work just as well....metal gear is a good choice.

DSM2/DSMX TX/RX combo should be fine for a park flyer.

[BroncoSquid]

You were talking about the "Range" of the reciever and antenna length.
What transmitter are you using? That is where range is important. Your reciever dose transmit telemetery data on cretain models, but it is your transmitter that truly determines the range for control purposes. Believe it or not, 2.4Ghz dosn't require a very long antenna at all. Especially at 1/2 or 1/4 wave.

[drummaker]

Originally Posted by BroncoSquid

You were talking about the "Range" of the reciever and antenna length.
What transmitter are you using? That is where range is important. Your reciever dose transmit telemetery data on cretain models, but it is your transmitter that truly determines the range for control purposes. Believe it or not, 2.4Ghz dosn't require a very long antenna at all. Especially at 1/2 or 1/4 wave.

I am using a Spektrum dx5i

[drummaker]

Originally Posted by BroncoSquid

You were talking about the "Range" of the reciever and antenna length.
What transmitter are you using? That is where range is important. Your reciever dose transmit telemetery data on cretain models, but it is your transmitter that truly determines the range for control purposes. Believe it or not, 2.4Ghz dosn't require a very long antenna at all. Especially at 1/2 or 1/4 wave.

thanks for this. I am an old electronics guy so I get some of this however antennas are critical for receiving. The Spektrum receiver I own has 2 antennas (for diversity I am sure). One is about 2 inches and the other is about 10

the orange has 2 about 2 inches each

that is my concern.

[drummaker]

Originally Posted by pizzano

The motor you selected:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=34108

Is rated at 40amps...the ESC you have is rated at 30amps........the common practice is to use an ESC rated equal to or more than the motor spec's.....particularly if you intend to use larger diameter props that provide more thrust......

On a 38" wing span (weight unknown) 9g servos work just as well....metal gear is a good choice.

DSM2/DSMX TX/RX combo should be fine for a park flyer.

Wow I could have swarn it said 20 amps... I will buy a new esc thanks

and weight is supposed to be around 20 OZ

[drummaker]

Originally Posted by pizzano

The motor you selected:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=34108

Is rated at 40amps...the ESC you have is rated at 30amps........the common practice is to use an ESC rated equal to or more than the motor spec's.....particularly if you intend to use larger diameter props that provide more thrust......

On a 38" wing span (weight unknown) 9g servos work just as well....metal gear is a good choice.

DSM2/DSMX TX/RX combo should be fine for a park flyer.

OK now I AM confused
here is what the hobby king site says about this motor

D2826-6 2200kv Outrunner Motor

Specs:
Rpm/V: 1400kv
Shaft: 3.17mm
Voltage: 2S~3S (7.4v to 11.1v)
Weight: 50g
Watts: 205w
Max Current: 21A
ESC: 40A
Suggested Prop: 7x4(3S) ~ 9x4.7 (2S)
Mounting Hole Bolt Circle: 16mm or 19mm

PRODUCT ID: D2826-101400

so...
max current 21 A
but exc of 40
what is up with that... am I missing something in my knowledge about ESCs and motors. I mean this is a dc to 3 phase converter that can can be timed by motor feed back. and pulse duration controls the output power. so.. I am not sure why I would need a 40 amp ESC for a 30 amp motor.. if it took 10 amps of power to drive the esc which only outputs 30 amps. That would be horribly inefficient.



can you clarify this for me?

also.. If I use 2 small of an esc.. am I simply limiting the maximum power I can get out of the motor? Or is it possible to burn up the ESC that way?

[CrimzonRider]

http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31368

Hey, drummaker....look at post #5....most of your questions will be answered. (though the whole thread is an excellent read)

IMO You want your ESC to be able to handle more amps than your motor, usually promotes cooler running electronics. Kinda like a buffer zone, and of course you don't want your ESC getting too hot and shutting down in mid-air!

IMO The size of plane sometimes denotes the size of the "buffer", but usually falls around with the ESC 15-20% larger than the max amps of the motor.
Of course, the bigger the plane is, the less you have to worry about size of ESC.
I personally like big huge ESC's(usually 50%bigger), but I prop motors a little much sometimes(gotta have wattmeter to do this).

Your probably okay with the 40 amp IMO. Google/Bing it and you'll find other peoples setups to give you a better idea. (i.e., 3530 motor with a 40amp ESC)

have a good one

& +1 on headsuprc.com link, they tell/show you what you need to have a successfull electric motor setup!!

cr

[pizzano]

Evidently, the motor "manufacture" suggests a 40amp ESC.

The spec's seem to imply a "max current draw of 21amps"....?

I simply implied a "practical and basic approach" to your question based on the "facts" HK provides.....lol...no need to get all "I got this" "whats up with this" on the subject. If I remember correctly, your'e new at this! Seems the "I am an old electronics guy" has more answers than questions....lol

There a ton of variables that will effect what your motor amp draw will be (see previous posts) and ESC section of this site.

I'd recommend that you take some of the guess work out of picture. check this site out:

http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...0-Sport/Detail

These guys test everything they suggest to use. Thumb through the sport plane motor recommendations....use all the data you can muster up on your build intent, then compare that to what HK provides....you wouldn't be the first guy who ran with HK info to only be more confused than you were before you started...and disappointed after a motor purchase.

I'll pass on this post (and others by drummaker) in the future........

Good luck and enjoy your adventure.

[drummaker]

Originally Posted by pizzano

Evidently, the motor "manufacture" suggests a 40amp ESC.


I'll pass on this post (and others by drummaker) in the future........

Good luck and enjoy your adventure.

did offend you? IF so I am sorry. I am aware of just how complicated this stuff is, and I am constantly modifying my perception of what is going on with all this equipment. It seems that there are new questions for every answer. Believe me.. I was really asking you a question and not being argumentative or suggestive. Anyone who has been doing this for a while has a working knowlege.. That is something I do NOT have. I may understand some theory, but even that is hard to find in any detail that I can understand. I mean showing me a diagram of some solid state device and some basic theory of operation is a great help for me to draw conclusions from... BUT not having a working knowledge to compare my conclusions to, could lead to totally WRONG conclusions. So.. weather you understand theory or not... you still have a lot of info that I need to access, and I a always interested in peoples input.

So... Thank you for pointing something out to me. I actually had an online chat with Hobbyking about this. And they gave me as Vague of info as people here.

I have decided that I am going to wait for my watt meter, mount the motor something, put a prop on it.. Try this ESC and see what is happening.



so Thanks for the post AND info

[drummaker]

I have decided that I am going to wait for my watt meter, mount the motor something, put a prop on it.. Try this ESC and see what is happening.




My biggest issue and the thing that confuses me the most is prop sizing and pitch. I actually imagined a 3 blade prop on this.. I just can't find anything that seems trigger my brain to wrap around the whole thing. For instance

Does a 3 blade 6/4 prop pull 3/2 the power of a 2 blade 6/4?

How much more power consumption is eaten up by more pitch?

do airplane props slip a lot?

I think I know but am not sure of this

If I have a 7x4 prop and draw 20 amps at full throttle I will go X fast with a model of X drag
If I increase to 7x5 I know I will draw more current.. How much faster will the plane go?

This stuff seems really vague to me... I think this plane needs lots of speed but I really don't know how much I know that this motor puts out a hell of a lot more power than a long can 400
My understanding by reading a different thread about this plane is the guy was using a 2400KV brushed motor and a small prop this makes sense.. How would I determine if I know the pitch of the prop he was using how what pitch I would have to use to achieve the same speed with a 1450KV motor

[drummaker]

Originally Posted by pizzano

Evidently, the motor "manufacture" suggests a 40amp ESC.

The spec's seem to imply a "max current draw of 21amps"....?

I simply implied a "practical and basic approach" to your question based on the "facts" HK provides.....lol...no need to get all "I got this" "whats up with this" on the subject. If I remember correctly, your'e new at this! Seems the "I am an old electronics guy" has more answers than questions....lol

There a ton of variables that will effect what your motor amp draw will be (see previous posts) and ESC section of this site.

I'd recommend that you take some of the guess work out of picture. check this site out:

http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...0-Sport/Detail

These guys test everything they suggest to use. Thumb through the sport plane motor recommendations....use all the data you can muster up on your build intent, then compare that to what HK provides....you wouldn't be the first guy who ran with HK info to only be more confused than you were before you started...and disappointed after a motor purchase.

I'll pass on this post (and others by drummaker) in the future........

Good luck and enjoy your adventure.

Pizzano suggested a link on Headsuprc

I just followed it. This seems to be a great site. I wonder how I missed it after so much surfing and reading.
Thanks for the suggestion. I am thinking this site is a keeper

[Rockin Robbins]

Hey!

By all means, Heads Up RC is a great place to do business. They are very knowledgeable, do their own testing on their motors and are darned near the price of Hobby King. $2.00 ships just about anything. I'd use 'em!

If you're not going to follow a real plane's color scheme I like the second to last example you posted. The high contrast will make it easier to orient your model. It might be a good idea to make the left wing different in some conspicuous way from the right and the top markedly different from the bottom. This helps with orientation.

[drummaker]

OK so the kit came in I layed out all the parts. It seems to all be there but there is no pats list. This kit is pretty complete with decals, a color chart, plastic cowling, and scoop.

After having done the Mountain models cub though I am a little disappointing in the hardware supplied. I will need to buy pushrod ends, wheels and other misc stuff. There was a nice list in the instructions and manufacturers part numbers, so that is cool.

[drummaker]

The instructions are Beautiful. All of the pictures are in color and clear as can be. Just like the other model however it talks about putting in parts by name not by the number on the part. This is a small issue though since the pics are Very Clear.

The main spar is very healthy being I suppose 3/16 thick and of course the laser cutting is awesome.

I have noticed on both kits so far that the parts seem to fall out of the parts sheet. This is not Really a big problem. but It is a little bothersome. I am thinking I would rather have to sand a little thicker attachment point than have to deal with the parts falling out of the sheets, but never having experience that I don't know for sure.


The trailing edge of the wing is formed by laying down a flat balsa strip, then a 1/8th square at the back side of that, then after the rips are glued down another flat strip. This seems to be straight forward.

The front edge is a 3/16 square balsa (strip) that is glued into the fronts of the ribs at a 45 so that the corner points forward. This makes it very nice to shape the leading edge.

I finished the left side last night and forgot to take pics of the finished wing. I did one modification. Last model I did I noticed that the sheeting ran away from the sanding block because it would flex mid span. I cut some of the 1/32 sheeting material which is left over to about 1/8 wide and then glued it on the inside of the wing to the sheeting on one side and the spars on the other. This adds almost no weight, and the sheeting is now rigid and the wing much more stable... Hope this wasn't wrong.

here is a pic. I didn't take many last night and I intend to remedy this next time.


If you look at the plan you see that there are 2 ribs right next to each other labeled R4 this is actually r4 and r5 R5 is the only one that I have put in at this point since it is actually the end of the left wing section. R4 is part of the middle section.

R5 is actually cut to to in at an angle so that it will meet up with r4 and create a Dihedral. the ends of all the spars get cut off flush with the rib. I red the instructions several times because I couldn't understand the shape at the end of the main spar.. (at the top of the pic) It did however need to be cut off though... ( I hope anyway.. pretty sure!)

I took the completed wing and stood it on end on rib r5 and low and behold when I put a square next to it It was at an angle which left about a 1.5 inch gap. (the amount of dihedral that is supposed to be in the wing.) I sure hope there isn't an angle on r4 or the dihedral will be off and I will be filling gaps wit glue or something.

The r4 and 5 get later in the process to install a spar double I think it is called.. a brace anyway

[drummaker]

Originally Posted by drummaker

OK so I am going to start a build. This will be my second. I am building the AT6 Texan from House of Balsa.. The Micro Electric Version

I can't show you a pic of the box since I don't have it yet. It is coming today.

What I can do is attach some pics of what I am thinking of using as a covering pattern. My last model turned out kind of ugly, So I am planning ahead. It has occurred to me to just do Standard military covering.. However unlike the Cub which seems to always be the same... I have seen AT6 models with every color in the rainbow and patterns accordingly
Here are a few schemes I have come up with. They all Incorporated the same basic colors, since I ordered a selection of covering. The covering I purchased was... from Hanger 9 the parklite: creme, silver (aluminum) yellow, and Orange, and the solarfilm metalic red. I also have the most part of a roll of Yellow microlite. I hate the microlite yellow so If I decide on yellow I am thinking I will buy the parklite

so I am attaching a few drawings I have done. I have not included any of the standard military patterns. Which I may just wind up doing.

The thing is.. on my 1st model the thing I had the most trouble with was the covering. I have learned from experience, that when you push yourself.. you improve so these schemes are designed to challenge me.
here we go:

anyone who has an opinion please state it. I really hate do to stock stuff, but I am seeing that in the scale world. Standard color schemes seem to be.... Well STANDARD

Is it considered bad taste to ask or recommend color patterns for planes here?
Art is definately NOT my forte and I really don't sometimes know what looks good or bad till sometime later. It seems like if my brain comes up with it. My perception of it is good for a while. Then some time down the line I go... What was I thinking?

so comments on the patterns are welcome and desired.

[rreid7]

You might be interested in this post on visibility and orientation on my website. Not That I have anything startling to offer, but I included a link in there to a really good article on the subject by someone who knows about colors and visibility.
Visibility and Orientation

[drummaker]

Originally Posted by rreid7

You might be interested in this post on visibility and orientation on my website. Not That I have anything startling to offer, but I included a link in there to a really good article on the subject by someone who knows about colors and visibility.
Visibility and Orientation

rreid suggested an article on orientation visibility. although I read it, and it seems to make sense to me, I am struggling to figure out what to do with things model. the only thing not wet covered is the fuselage. is there anything I can do with just that which might help

[Bill G]

Originally Posted by drummaker

rreid suggested an article on orientation visibility. although I read it, and it seems to make sense to me, I am struggling to figure out what to do with things model. the only thing not wet covered is the fuselage. is there anything I can do with just that which might help

What I've found is that the model outline is really what your eyes pick up. Once at distance, they all get small and tend to grey out. Your subconscious is more powerful than you think. I regularly lose orientation, like all flyers that fly small models at distance. The key is to give a stick input, observe the change in the model outline, reestablish it's orientation, and then give the necessary input to regain control from there. Your mind will develop the ability to process those things near instantaneously, and the reactions become almost instinctive. Your mind will literally process in an instant, "Okay I gave a left aileron input and am now seeing this, so I can now see that the plane is in a certain orientation, and I now need to give a this input to correct it".

Personally, using specific colors and different colors on the top versus bottom surfaces have not made a difference for me. Unless you are flying close or flying large models, I believe the color thing is overrated, and not the way your eyes and mind process the model.

[drummaker]

Well.... I finished. I built a battery compartment in the very front behind the prop which allowed me to put the battery in without removing the wing. I used a 2 cell to make that work. The output with the shown 3 blade 8/3 prop was 120 watts.

Well...
I took it to the field and my flight instructor Gary agreed to fly this for me. It was wind of about 10 mph.

The plain went down the runway lifted off almost immediately, banked right and crashed.

oh well

It was clear that I should have told Gary about the tendencies of the T6, I guess I thought everyone knew this...

anyway damage was minimal. Broken cowl, motor mounts came apart, and the bracing that the rear of the wing attaches to came out. I had this fixed quickly.

So

I slept on it saturday night and realized

A this is a 1,450 kv motor. Not particularly high speed.
the 3 blade prop, only 3 pitch, although it had plenty of thrust while not moving had a Very low top speed.

I believe this plane was destined to crash.

I put on a 8x6 prop. This took the wattage output up to 220 on a 180 watt motor... hmmm. I chopped off the ends of the prop (about half an inch very carefully and accurately)
After balancing it ran very smoothly and put out about 190
close enough.

I believe next flite will go much Better


Good news.

Flying the club trainer was pretty much exactly as it was on the emulator. I was fine! I have to do 3 consecutive flites without incident before I am certified to solo alone at the field. I have ordered a Hawk Sky to do this on, and I know I really do need some actual flight ecperience before I fly my kits builts alone.

The Cub flew well except it was under powered, and struggled to go against the wind. It was also just too light to land effectively against a 10mph wind.

I changed motors to the one I bought for the t6 by accident and put in a 3s 2000 mh pack this increased the weight by about 4 oz... Not much but maybe...... anyway it is also pulling 180 with an 8x6. Bam


We will see.

so here are the pics. this is pre crash so the prop on it now is different.

[road king 97]

Originally Posted by drummaker

Well.... I finished. I built a battery compartment in the very front behind the prop which allowed me to put the battery in without removing the wing. I used a 2 cell to make that work. The output with the shown 3 blade 8/3 prop was 120 watts.

Well...
I took it to the field and my flight instructor Gary agreed to fly this for me. It was wind of about 10 mph.

The plain went down the runway lifted off almost immediately, banked right and crashed.

oh well

It was clear that I should have told Gary about the tendencies of the T6, I guess I thought everyone knew this...

anyway damage was minimal. Broken cowl, motor mounts came apart, and the bracing that the rear of the wing attaches to came out. I had this fixed quickly.

So

I slept on it saturday night and realized

A this is a 1,450 kv motor. Not particularly high speed.
the 3 blade prop, only 3 pitch, although it had plenty of thrust while not moving had a Very low top speed.

I believe this plane was destined to crash.

I put on a 8x6 prop. This took the wattage output up to 220 on a 180 watt motor... hmmm. I chopped off the ends of the prop (about half an inch very carefully and accurately)
After balancing it ran very smoothly and put out about 190
close enough.

I believe next flite will go much Better


Good news.

Flying the club trainer was pretty much exactly as it was on the emulator. I was fine! I have to do 3 consecutive flites without incident before I am certified to solo alone at the field. I have ordered a Hawk Sky to do this on, and I know I really do need some actual flight ecperience before I fly my kits builts alone.

The Cub flew well except it was under powered, and struggled to go against the wind. It was also just too light to land effectively against a 10mph wind.

I changed motors to the one I bought for the t6 by accident and put in a 3s 2000 mh pack this increased the weight by about 4 oz... Not much but maybe...... anyway it is also pulling 180 with an 8x6. Bam


We will see.

so here are the pics. this is pre crash so the prop on it now is different.

Yea my planes are built on the kiss method (keep it simple stuped) so i dont like gyros on anything i fly, just somthing else to go wrong. joe

[drummaker]

OK...
I came down with the flu... I hate that. I had made some definite progress before I came down with it. I don't have pics yet.

I will take pics tonight

Main Wing
Built. I don't know if this is common or not but these work from a single servo sitting on top in the center of the wing. There are linkages that go into the end of the Ailerons and are hidden so no control horns showing. This is pretty slick

I covered the Main wing while I was sick. I whittled away at it using my totally hosed up Top Flite covering iron to shrink and my 21st Century Trim Iron to stick down. I found the trim Iron just doesn't work as well as a full scale iron for anything you can get an iron into. I did get it covered though. I have to say that the Hanger 9 lite covering is great to work with. It cuts easy sticks easy and doesn't melt easily.

The Solarlite metalic red is Beautiful. and pretty easy to work with. It did want to warp the wing... but I was able to straighten it easily..

Pics to come

I must say I got my new covering Iron.. I bought the 21st century because of recommendations I found on various forums... WOW this thing makes the Top Flite iron seem primitive even when it did work.

I had a couple of bad spots from scorching with the TF covering melting iron. but I just dont have the energy to redo. I will just live with a couple of patches and call it Hanger Rash.

[drummaker]

Note to self Learn how to spell fuselage without looking it up!

The fuselage went together beautifully. I am still working on it, and decided to do Mods right off the bat.
Bill G noted that this plane would be problematic to get the CG right with a brushless motor, I gave this some thought and decided that....

It would be cool to make the Canopy removeable with magnate mounts on the front.. This would add weight to the front so that helps CG a little. Also I think I can open up and reinforce with plywood the support in front of the cockpit which would allow me to slide a battery in that direction. This may or may not work but if it does that would solve problems. Really I just wanted to add the challenge of doing the removable canopy. I can have changeable pilots by velcro ing them in from the underneath.

I have the motor and will make the mount tonight so I will be able to test for CG. I plan on using a 2 or 3 cell 1200ma battery pack.

I am having some concerns about props for this thing. The landing gear are stubby, and I am afraid that an 8 inch prop won't swing. Another thing I will need to investigate. Regardless, I have ordered 7 and 4 inch 3 blade props since I have decided that you can't have a big enough prop selection. The motor runs great with a 3 blade 8x4. It draws 180 watts and bulls hard. (no way to measure How do you do that anyway)

The wings really didn't line up that great with the curves in the fuselage that were pre cut. I find this odd since no reasonable mistake could have caused this mismatch. I fiddled for quite a while and decided that this was just the way it was, so I built wing fillets out of a 1/16 X 1/4 strips of balsa glued to the fuselage and pushed down to conform with the wing. I then filled this with Balsa filler. I know this will add some weight, but I am not that concerned since there is such a big weight loss from going brushless and LYPO.
Anyway it looks cool. This model is really more about trying to progress my skill set than really making it fly great. I believe this will fly well though as long as I don't mind going fast.

I thought I had a great Idea toughening up the balsa filler on the fillets by spreading thin CA over them.. Later I read the can and It actually says to do that on the filler... Go figure.

so We are now up to date.

I will take some pics later tonight.

Sorry so stingy on the pics but in all honestly when I am working on this stuff, my work area is a total disaster, and I am a little embarrassed to shoot pictures showing the shambles that it is, and I am too lazy to move it all upstairs to shoot pics up there. I promise Pics tonight.

I am still trying to decide if I am going to peal the covering off the wing and start again. There are only 2 bad spots and I put patches on them so they don't show too much. I know I can do much better with the new 21st Century electronically controlled covering iron. (sound like a comercial.... I Highly recommend this.) I really am not sure I have the energy...This really will probably be crashed very quickly after or during maiden, and I am really just trying to improve my abilities with this model. Since the issues I had were equipment related I don't think there is a reason. (that is the maximum amount of rationalization I can achieve!)

More Tonight!

[Rockin Robbins]

Clean work areas are evidence of a depraved mind.